Issuu

SEPTEMBER 2015 • Vol. 21 No. 7

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists

www.nyscc.org

Myths and Misinformation About Aromatherapy Oils … by Doug Schoon

here is no shortage of myths and misinformation about essential oils. Don’t get me wrong; I love essential oils. In fact, I was a very early adopter of their use in cosmetic products found in salons, spas, and retail stores. Their composition, properties, and great potential are fascinating. Interestingly, it was not until recently that I was aware that so many individuals have begun to ingest these oils for their so-called “therapeutic” benefits. Scanning the Internet, it is surprising how many websites promote the ingestion of essential oils, usually to cure a medical ailment, or as a preventative measure for a disease or disorder. Even more worrisome is that many people are encouraged and assisted with self-diagnosis by these websites, and instructed to treat their medical conditions by ingesting essential oils. As a scientist, this is of great concern, especially in terms of the lack of proper safety information and precautions related to the ingestion of essential oils. Improper Use of Essential Oils Aromatherapy oils are cosmetics and are not foods or nutritional supplements, so they are not designed or intended to be ingested. Even individuals who claim to be properly trained admit that the practice of ingesting essential oils can be potentially dangerous without proper training. You wouldn’t know that by reading what’s posted on the Internet by those entities promoting essential oils as a treatment or cure for a wide range of medical conditions, aliments, and disorders. Even professionals who are trained in the use of “therapeutic grade” essential oils will say that essential oils not labeled as therapeutic may be unsafe to ingest. They do not endorse internal therapeutic use unless recommended by a medical doctor or other health care practitioner trained at an appropriate clinical level, and only then with judicious and cautious use. It is important to note what the Alliance of International Aromatherapists (AIA) has this to say on the matter: “AIA does not endorse internal therapeutic use of essential oils unless recommended by a health care practitioner trained at an appropriate clinical level.” It seems that there is some level of concern about the safety of this practice. Here are the problems and future challenges as I see them. There is no generally recognized non-manufacturer body or group that certifies essential oils as therapeutic grade. That’s not to say there is (Continued on page 4)

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SEPTEMBER 24TH • INFORMATION ON PAGE 10

2015 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Kim Burch (609) 443-2385 Kim.Burch@elementis.com

CHAIR-ELECT Rey Ordiales (732) 878-7798 reyordiales@outlook.com.

TREASURER Marie Thadal (609) 712-3716 nyscctreasurerelect@gmail.com

SECRETARY Jenna Jelinski (201) 396-8431 jjelinski@morretec.com

ADVISOR Steve Neidenberg sbn605@aol.com

HOUSE John Carola JohnC@protameen.com

8:00 a.m. – 9:00 a.m.

9:00 a.m. – 10:00 a.m.

Registration and breakfast

Safety assessment approach to comply with the animal testing ban – Nava Dayan Key aspect in skin toxicology: • Skin barrier and innate immunity • Site of application • Level of exposure • Duration of application • Skin condition

___________________________________________________________________________________

10:00 a.m. – 11:00 a.m.

Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

COSMETISCOPE ASSISTANT EDITOR

___________________________________________________________________________________

COSMETISCOPE EDITOR

Jason O’Neill (631) 252-2939 Jason.Oneill@kemin.com

Agenda:

Phil Klepak (973) 265-2869 pklepak@summitresearchlabs.com

COSMETISCOPE EMPLOYMENT

___________________________________________________________________________________

SPECIAL EVENTS

Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com

Stephen Weinberg (973) 307-4854 WeinbergS@troycorp.com

COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING

he Cosmetics and Personal Care Industry has gone through major changes in the past several decades. Regulators are in the process of a framework establishment to outline guidance for the protection of the consumer and the environment. There are three key factors for compliance: ethics, law, and science; combined to establish a launch to the marketplace. This workshop is put together with the aim of providing industry professionals with knowledge and basic guidance to this established framework in safety assessment and to examine the limitations and opportunities. We believe that new market regulation should not be looked upon as a hindrance for market entrance, but rather as an opportunity to enter it!

PROGRAM

Joe Albanese (908) 456-2968 j.albanese@3vusa.com

Location: Seasons, Washington Township, NJ Organizer and Moderator: Nava Dayan, Ph.D. Program overview:

Amy Marshall (908) 806-4664 amy.marshall@altana.com

COMMUNICATIONS

The Safety in Regulatory Framework of the Cosmetic Industry: Simplified and Practical September 29, 2015

MEMBERSHIP

John Goffredo (201) 647-1841 jagformulators@gmail.com

Legislation for Cosmetic Products in the European Union – Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 – Annelie Struessmann Key Aspects of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 • Area of applicability • The Regulation’s key goals and regulatory tools • Roles of responsibility • Pre-market requirements/in-market control The Product Information File (PIF) as primary tool for product compliance • PIF contents • Establishing and maintenance of the PIF • Specifics of the Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR) • PIF function in regulatory compliance processes – benefits from diligent PIFs

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11:00 a.m. – 11:15 a.m.

Break

11:15 a.m. – 12:15 p.m.

North America Regulatory Status – Cosmetic Safety – Wen Schroeder • Market, consumers, and trendsetting milestones • Cosmetic safety in North America (U.S., Canada, Mexico) • Regulatory definition and requirements • What, who, why, when, and how? • Self-regulatory framework • Compliance tools and strategy

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12:15 p.m. – 1:15 p.m.

Lunch break

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1:15 p.m. – 2:00 p.m.

Key endpoint in testing – Nava Dayan • Skin irritation and sensitization • Photo-toxicity • Skin absorption

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2:00 p.m. – 2:45 p.m.

Status on Implementation of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 and Impact on Innovation – Annelie Struessmann • After the Regulation’s implementation deadline of July 2013 • Open issues • Solo activities by Member States • Future deadlines built into the regulatory text • Further future regulatory activities to be expected • Working with the Cosmetics Product Regulation • The Animal Testing Ban’s impact on product innovation • Overall judgment of the new regulatory framework

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2:45 p.m. – 3:00 p.m.

Break

3:00 p.m. – 3:45 p.m.

Asian Cosmetic Regulatory Status – Cosmetic Safety – Wen Schroeder • Market, consumers, and trendsetting milestones • Cosmetic safety in Asia (key regional representative countries) • Regulatory definition and requirements • What, who, why, when, and how? • Self-regulatory framework • Compliance tools and strategy

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3:45 p.m. – 4:30 p.m.

Panel discussion – questions and answers

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To register and for more information: https://nyscc.org/events/the-safety-in-regulatory-framework/

Please contact Dr. Nava Dayan with any questions or concerns: nava.dayan@verizon.net. ___________________________________________________________________________________

Educators’ Biographies Nava Dayan, Ph.D. Nava Dayan is the owner of Dr. Nava Dayan L.L.C, a skin science and research consultancy serving the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and personal care industries; dermal and transdermal. Dr. Dayan offers consulting for product feasibility in skin care, composition of R&D plans covering efficacy and toxicology; planning, execution, and data interpretation into claims of experiments during the processes of drug discovery as well as formulations, delivery for improved efficacy and attenuated toxicity. Sample of expertise includes: drug-skin interaction, biomarkers (genomics and proteomics), skin/age related sensitivities, inflammatory skin disorders, innate immunity, and biota. She also conducts customized education classes. Dr. Dayan has 25 years of experience in the skin care segment, and has more than 150 publication credits in numerous industry-respected journals and in four books. She has been awarded the In-Cosmetics Gold Award for innovation and commensurate recognition from the NYSCC and the CRS for excellence. (Continued on page 4)

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Annelie Struessmann, Ph.D. Dr. Annelie Struessmann is Technical Regulatory Director with CONUSBAT, a provider of internationalization regulatory services for the Fine Chemicals, Cosmetics, and Toiletries industries: www.conusbat.com. She joined the firm in 2003, and, based on many years of experience gained while working in the international cosmetics and ingredients industry, she established the service area for regulatory affairs, which became the core area for CONUSBAT. Focusing on the European regulatory frameworks for cosmetic products and for chemicals (REACH), she provides clients with compliance strategies, safety assessments, registrations, notifications, direct representations, etc. With a worldwide network of partners, the compliance services are expanded to a global scale. Dr. Struessmann publishes with various recognized journals in her area of expertise and provides workshops on a worldwide scale, as well as e-trainings. Before joining CONUSBAT she worked in various managerial functions at international locations of global companies, such as IFF, Akzo Nobel, Rewo (now Evonik), and DHW GmbH. Her educational background includes a Master’s Degree in Chemistry and a B.S. in Food Chemistry from the Technical University, RWTH, Aachen, Germany. Additionally, she received a Doctorate in Biopolymer Chemistry from the German Wool Research Institute (DWI) in Aachen, working on projects for Schwarzkopf (Germany) and Clairol (Stamford, CT, U.S.). From Clairol she was awarded the Company’s prestigious Gelb Foundation Fellowship.

Wen Schroeder Wen Schroeder is the founder and president of SEKI Cosmeticals. She is key expert for the ASEAN-EU Program for Regional Integration Support in cosmetic and pharmaceutical GMP and testing. Ms. Schroeder is scientific advisor to Taiwan External Trade Development Council and served for the Personal Care Products Council. She is active in the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and the Regulatory Affairs Professional Society. With 20+ years of industrial experience, 30 U.S. patents, and numerous publications, Ms. Schroeder is an internationally recognized lecturer on cosmetic science and regulatory affairs. Her lecture topics cover a wide range of areas including chemical management and biocide regulations to food, drug, and cosmetic law. Ms. Schroeder is the editor of the recently released book, Sustainable Cosmetic Product Development, published by Allured Books, which is the first comprehensive technical reference work in this field for the personal care industry.

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For more info: www.dwi.rwth-aachen.de. 4

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New York SCC 60th Anniversary Gala Masquerade Ball October 24, 2015 Come help us celebrate and honor our past chapter chairs at a formal/black-tie optional Gala Masquerade Dinner/Dance event to be held at the Marriott Glenpointe in Teaneck, NJ on Saturday, October 24, 2015. Cost: $100.00/person Cocktail reception begins at 6:00 PM. Dinner and dancing to live music will follow. Invitations will be sent to all New York Chapter Members and Suppliers. If you have any old photos that you would like to contribute to this event, please send them to Kim Burch at chair@nyscc.org. For more information about the event, contact….

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Amy Marshall (908) 806-4664 Amy.marshall@altana.com

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Andrea Guerrero (862) 324-1063 aguerrero@gattefossecorp.com

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Myths and Misinformation About Aromatherapy Oils

(Continued from page 1)

no such thing as therapeutic grade; clearly there is, but it is not what it appears to be. Many people mistake this as a regulatory quality standard and incorrectly assume that therapeutic grade infers that the oil is “medical grade” and/or “government approved.” Neither is correct. As far as I can tell, the company selling the essential oils derives these therapeutic standards. That’s a step in the right direction, but in order to ensure these standards are insulated sufficiently from undo marketing and sales influence, independent standards should be developed. Also, those standards should be fact-based and rely on valid scientific methods. Chemical Composition of Essential Oils As scientists, we realize essential oils are 100% chemical, but the general public is often duped by the myth that essential oils are “chemical-free.” Most lay people don’t understand that a chemical is everything you see or touch, except light and electricity. A typical essential oil commonly contains a great number of different chemical compounds. By some estimates, at least 3,000 unique chemical substances have been identified as components of essential oils. Even so, typical essential oils contain a few main chemical substances in high percentage that account for the fragrance, viscosity, and other properties of that particular oil. The ratios of these many different chemical components can vary widely, which means the chemical makeup of essential oils can vary greatly. The essential oil’s final composition depends on the type of plant as well as the part of the plant used, the location where it was grown, the season it was harvested, the age of the plant when harvested, and the local environmental conditions, as well as how the essential oil is removed from the plant, processed, and stored. To further complicate the issue, essential oils are sometimes adulterated with other lower cost essential oils that may go unnoticed unless laboratory testing is conducted. Clearly, the chemical composition of an essential oil can vary widely and depends on numerous factors. This should help to explain why it is important to trace the essential oil from its source and to do laboratory testing to confirm the chemical composition. Ingestion of Essential Oils My biggest concern is that some essential oils are known to be toxic by ingestion. Some are very irritating and cause allergic reactions with prolonged and/or repeated exposures. This is one reason why essential oils need to be greatly diluted before they are applied to the skin, otherwise overexposure leading to adverse skin reactions becomes a real possibility. A common practice is to add a drop or two in a glass of drinking water each day, but even this small amount can create problems. In my opinion, too many individuals are focused on the supposed benefits of ingesting essential oils and ignoring the potential problems. Experts on both sides of this discussion agree that ingesting essential oils does affect the bacterial lining of the digestive tract and that excessive exposure can lead to a range of gastrointestinal and digestive issues. For example, some essential oils have strong antibacterial properties, which could kill off large amounts of the bacteria that normally reside inside the stomach and the lining of the gastrointestinal tract. Even though there is an enormous amount of bacteria lining these regions, ingesting essential oils can throw off the normal balance and cause intestinal health problems. 6

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G BOTANICAL EMOLLIENTS & SPECIALTY PARTICLES

Some people dismiss this argument by claiming essential oils only kill harmful bacteria, not the beneficial ones. Really? There doesn’t appear to be any scientific support for this claim. In my view it is just wishful thinking based on speculation. But even if it is true, that argument doesn’t help their case at all. In fact, it is another reason for concern. Isn’t this the definition of an antibiotic? If it is true and some essential oils kill harmful bacteria in the gut, this would mean that some essential oils act like antibiotics when ingested. Therefore, long-term ingestion should certainly be of concern for that reason alone.

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Application of Essential Oils to Skin Besides ingestion, I am also concerned about that the application of undiluted, pure essential oils to skin, which is why I recommend only using essential oils when diluted in a carrier oil or other solvent to lessen the potential for adverse skin reactions. There are two main myths I have heard about adverse skin reactions when they occur: 1. Essential oils contain no proteins; therefore, they must not be the cause of skin allergies. False, there are many well-documented medical cases of allergic skin reactions to essential oils. Also, nickel is a common allergy causing substance and it contains no proteins. This myth is just plain wrong. 2. Developing a rash or burn on the skin when essential oils are applied is just your body’s way of detoxing. False, these symptoms are typical of skin irritation and/or allergic reactions, and not the result of some imaginary detoxification process.

The Soul & Science of Beauty. www.evonik.com/personal-care

It is important to understand that skin allergies most often are natural reactions to natural substances. These reactions are a skin protection mechanism triggered by exposure to many types of natural substances. Our skin develops allergic reactions as a protective mechanism against natural substances that could injure or damage it in the event of prolonged or repeated contact. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration discusses this potential problem on its website: “Allergic reactions have been reported with tea tree oil when taken by mouth or used on the skin. Skin reactions ranged from mild contact dermatitis (skin inflammation) to severe blistering rashes. Tea tree oil may cause bad breath, bad taste, depressed behavior, diarrhea, drowsiness, ear damage, fatigue, inflammation of the mouth, muscle tremors, nausea, skin irritation (burning, drying, eczema, fluid build-up, itching, rash, redness, scaling, warmth, and toxicity in human skin cells), slow or unsteady movements, stomach pain, uncommon blood changes, and weakness. Use cautiously in pregnant and breastfeeding women or those undergoing childbirth, due to reports that tea tree oil decreases contraction strength. Use cautiously when applied to the skin or when used as an eyelid scrub.” The vast majority of chemical substances have both a safe and unsafe level of exposure. That is also true of essential oils. Many essential oils are likely to cause adverse skin reactions when used in an undiluted form, i.e. 100% pure. Most consumers do not realize that the higher the purity of the essential oil, the “greater” the risks because the concentration of certain ingredients in the essential oils become too high for safe skin exposure. It is a common myth that pure essential oils are safer because they contain no toxins. Another related myth is that only pure and natural substances can remove synthetic toxins from the body. Many people are confused by the use of words like “toxin” or “natural.” Toxins are poisonous substances produced by a living organism, e.g., a bee sting toxin or snake venom. This demonstrates that all toxins are natural. If it is not natural, it is not a toxin. Yes, some synthetic materials may be “toxic” if overexposure occurs, but these are properly described as “synthetic toxicants.” This should serve to remind us of the truth (Continued on page 8)

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The Safety in Regulatory Framwork of the Cosmetic Industry

(Continued from page 7)

about nature. “Natural” does not mean automatically safe, as many believe. Nature is a dangerous place filled with many types of naturally occurring poisons or toxins as well as other health hazards. Nature is not the La La Land that many people imagine it to be. This misconception likely occurs because people don’t have to actually live in nature any more and don’t visit very often either; so it is easy to forget the many risks and dangers that the natural world presents. Concluding Remarks I am certain there are many other myths about essential oils. Since these substances are important to the cosmetic industry, formulators should familiarize themselves with the positive benefits of essential oils and be aware of the risks in addition to helping educate others about many misconceptions. They should also inform marketing professionals who promote essential oil containing products to ensure that proper safety information and usage directions are provided to consumers. When used carefully and appropriately, essential oils can be a valuable addition to a cosmetic product, as long as they are used responsibly and safely.

About the Author

W M ake Solv ay your Make Solvay P Partner artner for for Innovative Innovative F ormulation Solutions Formulation New! Jaguar® Optima – a unique, naturally derived solution th t ff ll t

ith more than thirty years of experience as a research scientist, international lecturer, author, and educator, Douglas Schoon is the foremost leading authority in the nail industry. He has a wide range of experience, including 19 years as head of a world-class cosmetic Research and Development laboratory. He is also a strong advocate for salon safety and represents the entire nail industry on scientific and technical issues in Europe, Canada, Australia, and the United States as co-chair of the Nail Manufacturer’s Council (NMC) of the Professional Beauty Association. Mr. Schoon is the author of many books, video, and audio training programs as well as dozens of magazine articles on the proper use of professional products, safety, cleaning and disinfection, and other related technical topics. His most popular book is Nail Structure & Product Chemistry, Second Edition, published by Delmar Thomson Learning along with his Internet video series, Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon. He often serves as an expert witness in legal cases involving safety and health issues, and dermatologists frequently call upon Schoon to assist them in writing books and scientific papers concerning fingernails. Doug holds a Master’s Degree in Organic Chemistry from the prestigious University of California-Irvine. He currently resides in Dana Point, California. More information can be found on his website at www.schoonscientific.com.

Call for Papers

he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

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SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS DEDICATED TO THE ADVANCEMENT OF COSMETIC SCIENCE

SCC Continuing Education Program

he Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Continuing Education Advisory Committee is delighted to announce that registration is now officially open for the courses listed below. The SCC is dedicated to providing interactive courses that serve the needs of professionals in our industry. CEP instructors are highly qualified industry experts. You will come away from these small, interactive courses having gained the knowledge needed to advance your professional development. To register, or to learn more, please visit www.scconline.org. If you have questions, please call 212-668-1500, or e-mail dscelso@scconline.org.

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REGISTER NOW – CLASS SIZE IS LIMITED! All courses will be at the SCC National Office in New York City unless otherwise noted below. September 9-10 Regulatory Update September 30 – October 1 NEW! “Hands On Lab Experience” – Liquid Foundation Emulsion Technology, Toledo, Ohio October 6 NEW! Claims for Skin Care Products – From Biomarkers to Human Studies October 27 – 28 Introduction to Polymer Chemistry November 6 Scale-up and Processing Cosmetic Formulations December 9 Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry (in conjunction with SCC Annual Meeting), Hilton Hotel & Towers, New York City December 9 Gums, Thickeners, and Rheology Modifiers (in conjunction with SCC Annual Meeting), Hilton Hotel & Towers, New York City

Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists CALL FOR MANUSCRIPTS

he Society of Cosmetic Chemists is soliciting scientific manuscripts concerned with cosmetics or the sciences underlying cosmetics, as well as papers of interest to the cosmetic industry for publication in the Journal of Cosmetic Science, The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. The JOURNAL will consider manuscripts for publication in the following categories, provided they are prepared in proper scientific style and adequately referenced: • Original articles • Review articles • Technical notes • General articles • Preliminary communications • Letters to the Editor SUBMISSION OF MANUSCRIPTS Manuscripts submitted for publication should be accompanied by a cover letter and sent via e-mail to dscelso@scconline.org. Additional information is available from the SCC National Office: www.scconline.org. V O L U M E

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Upcoming 2015 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org

COMMITTED TO TECHN FORMULA AND SUPERIOR NA AT TION-W DISTRIBUTION.

September 24 Culinary Event, Midtown Loft, New York, NY September 29 Safety and Regulatory Workshop, Seasons, Washington Township, NJ

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October 24 NYSCC 60th Anniversary Party, Glennpointe Marriott, Teaneck NJ

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November 11-12 NYSCC Color Cosmetics Symposium, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, NY December 10 NYSCC Social Media Holiday Party, New York, NY

A t t e n t i o n ™

M e m b e r s

Unemployed and Emeritus members may continue to attend monthly meetings free of charge. Please contact the registration booth upon arrival. Unemployed members may also continue their membership free of charge by submitting the renewal form with unemployment details. Please remember that the SCC Employment Service is here to assist you. Contact: Jason O’Neill • E-Mail: Jason.Oneil@kemin.com

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n Senior Formulations/Technical Service Chemist Presperse Corporation Somerset, NJ

n Account Manager Innospec, Inc. Northeastern U.S.

n Account Manager – Active Ingredients BASF, The Chemical Company Florham Park, NJ

n Chemist – Research & Innovation L’Oréal USA Clark, NJ

n Bench Chemist Verla International, Ltd.

n Account Manager Northeast Presperse Corporation Somerset, NJ n Marketing Leader Presperse Corporation Somerset, NJ

n Regional Technical Sales Representative Kinetik Technologies Hazlet, NJ

n Regulatory and Quality Affairs Associate Verla International, Ltd. n Personal Care TS&D Chemist Akzo Nobel Bridgewater, NJ 12

n Project Manager Process Technologies & Packaging Scranton, PA

n Personal Care Formulation Technician Inolex, Inc. Philadelphia, PA n Organic Lab Technician NeoStrata Company, Inc. Princeton, NJ n Principal Scientist Johnson & Johnson Singapore n Account Manager Sino Lion USA Florham Park, NJ

n Sales & Marketing Manager Sino Lion USA Florham Park, NJ

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