Desert Companion - November 2017

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VOLUME 15 ISSUE 11 D E S E R T C O M P A N I O N .V E G A S

November XX DINING

Restaurants come and go, but some have real staying power.

What’s their secret?

By John Curtas

XX STYLE

Fashions that transition seamlessly from workday to night out

By Christie Moeller

XX MY WORKSPACE

the city’s new arts and culture boss

By Scott Dickensheets

XX

XX

SPORTS

The era of major sports in Las Vegas gets underway soon with the NHL’s Vegas Golden Knights

By Matt Jacob

Let’s look around the creative space of artist Anthony Bondi.

Hey, an animal skull!

By Scott Dickensheets

XX HOT SEAT

TO THE COMMUNITY

XX HELPING PAWS

An afternoon with the volunteerz of Street Dogz

By Bruce Gil

XX HEALTH

Music therapy at the Ruvo Brain Center

By Bruce Gil

XX

Respond. Roseman.

Checking in with the funky cultural scene in the desert hot spot ...

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Meet Ally R. Haynes-Hamblen,

( EXTRAS ) XX

115

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VOLUME 15 ISSUE 11 D E S E R T C O M P A N I O N .V E G A S

November

FEATURES

COURAGE AMID CHAOS

ALL WE HAVE

Amid the chaos and terror of October 1, these Las Vegans saved lives, gave comfort, and defined the spirit of selfless service.

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Serious gun law reform is unlikely in the wake of the Route 91 shooting. What else can we do? There are only imperfect choices.

By Steve Sebelius

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68

IN EXCESS, THERE IS HOPE

How will Las Vegas recover from the psychic scars of October 1? Perhaps our city’s penchant for wild contradiction holds some measure of hope.

By Andrew Kiraly

80

HOLIDAY GUIDE

The perfect gift for everyone on your list, plus holiday events and opportunities to volunteer and donate.

By Christie Moeller

M E M O R I A L A N D M A N D A L AY B AY : B R E N T H O L M E S

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VOLUME 15 ISSUE 11 D E S E R T C O M P A N I O N .V E G A S

November seasonally delish new dishes

By Mitchell Wilburn

38 HOT SEAT

From a comic-book festival to a wild play to cult literature, November will keep you busy

42 THEATER

CULTURE

21

It takes a rare skill to make art with an Etch-a-Sketch. Dave Roberts has it

By Scott Dickensheets

COMMUNITY

Should there be a permanent memorial to the Route 91 shooting? Where?

By Joe Schoenmann

28 TRUE CRIME

24

43 HIKING

The petroglyphs of Sloan Canyon make for a great cool-weather hike — just be respectful

By Alan Gegax

Orange jumpsuit is the new red carpet for would-be movie mogul

By Glen Meek

RIFF

How philosophy is — and isn’t — like Las Vegas

By James Woodbridge

DEPARTMENTS 44

26

TRAVEL

PROFILE

33

Ross Bryant, head of UNLV’s Veterans Services Center

By Heidi Kyser

DINING

It’s not revolutionary, but Bandito is a great antidote to strip-mall Latin food

By Greg Thilmont

27 ADVICE

Tips for getting out your novel during National Novel Writing Month

By Rachel Salyer

36 SEASONAL EATS

The cool months will fill your table with

These funky neighborhoods of San Diego are perfect for a few head-clearing days away

By Greg Thilmont

50 EDUCATION

There’s a dire teacher shortage in America, and school districts such as Clark County’s go a long way to find instructors — to the Philippines, for example

By Ian Whitaker

( OH, EXTRAS AND )

( COVER ) 11 NOVEMBER

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EDITOR’S NOTE

THE GUIDE

Here we are now, entertain us — exhibits, concerts, shows, events, and miscellaneous hoo-ha to fill your calendar

“I VE HA TO P.” HEL

AG E UR CO N ON OF IES AS SIO ST ORCO MP1 R D ANTO BE OC

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DESIGN

Christopher Smith

B A N D I T O C H I C K E N : S A B I N O R R ; P H I LO S O P H E R C O L L A G E : B R E N T H O L M E S ; L A FAY E T T E H OT E L : C O U R T E S Y L A FAY E T T E H OT E L

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To properly stage the cancer-themed W;t, the troupe A Public Fit reached out to people who know the disease, intimately

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PUBLISHER

Flo Rogers

ADVERTISING MANAGER Favian

Editor’s note

THE MORNING AFTER T

he national headlines about Las Vegas often amuse, bemuse, or outrage us. The stories, right or wrong, are typically about our quirks, our problems, our particular brand of crazy. They sometimes strike us as presumptuous, or pretentious, or, well, just totally super-annoying. But, on a deeper level, we’re also flattered that we’re worth the attention, that we’re part of the conversation.

But please. Anything but this headline. Anything but this story that so many of us woke up to the morning after — rattled into an ugly new dawn by texts from family and friends asking if we were safe. Or, worse, a missed message from a loved one with unimaginable news.

A month later, the facts branded on our minds by media churn, we can recite details by heart; the numbers themselves — 58, 32, 500, 23 — still vibrate like glyphs in some dark numerology. We keep giving money, blood, thoughts and prayers. But it doesn’t stop us from wishing with heart-seizing intensity for a thing not to be. It doesn’t explain the unknowable desolation of soul that could move a man to inflict mass death with such thorough calculation.

In our feature on p. 57, we profile the people — from concertgoers to first responders to faith leaders — who acted with courage and compassion amid this tragedy. We start to consider the broader psychic ripples and political implications of October 1. No collection of words and pictures can properly consider a magnitude while we still live in its shadow. Our intent is to consider the wound without adding to the clamor, without indulging in the pornography of lurid detail.

The shockwaves of October 1 are still moving through us; the shadow will loom for a long time to come. What can we do? Continue to share stories that illuminate, unify and heal.

Andrew Kiraly editor

Perez Kiraly ART DIRECTOR Christopher Smith DEPUTY EDITOR Scott Dickensheets SENIOR DESIGNER Scott Lien STAFF WRITER Heidi Kyser GRAPHIC DESIGNER Brent Holmes EDITOR Andrew

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Desert Companion is published 12 times a year by Nevada Public Radio, 1289 S. Torrey Pines Dr., Las Vegas, NV 89146. It is available by subscription at desertcompanion.vegas, or as part of Nevada Public Radio membership. It is also distributed free at select locations in the Las Vegas Valley. All photos, artwork and ad designs printed are the sole property of Desert Companion and may not be duplicated or reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. The views of Desert Companion contributing writers are not necessarily the views of Desert Companion or Nevada Public Radio. Contact Tammy Willis for back issues, which are available for purchase for $7.95.

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A LL IN

10 PEOPLE, ISSUES, OBJECTS, EVENTS, IDEAS, AND CURIOSITIES YOU SHOULD BE AWARE OF THIS MONTH

O N E | COMMUNITY

How Should We Remember?

Temporary memorials will eventually lead to talk of something permanent.

Then it will get complicated.

BY

Joe Schoenmann

E

arly on the Saturday morning after the shooting, a handful of people shuffle side to side, gazing at the flowers, plants, and crayoned words on the Remembrance Wall in Downtown. Photos of all 58 victims hang in no particular order. For every victim, a tree has been planted.

The site, just north of Charleston Boulevard, is called the Healing Garden. It was built in four days with donated time and material by volunteers who shed sweat and tears as they dug and hammered and molded concrete.

As the horrific events of October 1 recede in time, talk will eventually sway toward construction of a permanent memorial. And that, in many ways, will reopen wounds.

Difficult questions will abound: Where should a memorial go? On the site? What should be

PHOTOGRAPHY B rent Holmes

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memorialized, the loss of 58 specific lives or the trauma inflicted on the city? What form will it take? Who should decide? How political will the process get? Should there even be a memorial?

James Young has seen it before.

Young is a professor emeritus of English and Judaic and Near Eastern studies at the University of Massachusetts, Amherst.

Among his credits is his appointment to the jury for the National 9/11 Memorial design competition. In the late 1990s, Germany made him chair of a five-person committee to choose that country’s Memorial to Europe’s Murdered Jews. His most recent book is 2016’s The Stages of Memory: Reflections on Memorial Art, Loss and the Spaces Between (University of Massachusetts Press).

What should Nevada do to memorialize the 58 killed, the hundreds wounded, and the thousands forever scarred by 10 minutes around 10 p.m. on October 1?

The first thing is give it space and time.

“Everybody needs to step back and take a deep breath and include in their idea of the memorial the grieving process,” Young says.

“Give families the space to grieve their loved ones before arriving at a civic meeting.”

And yet, he adds, some early official movement toward a memorial could help ward off special-interest groups seeking to politicize

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the installation or steer it toward a specific message — and that even includes families of the victims.

Remembering the deaths could serve a useful function legally — “I would want to ... remember these people who died at the hands of semi-autos made to work like automatic weapons as cases to study in order to improve gun laws,” Young says — but that might not be the proper function of a memorial.

In 2012, after 20 children and six adults were gunned down at Sandy Hook Elementary School in Newtown, Connecticut, some families jumped into the memorial discussion, wanting to make their children martyrs to bad gun laws, Young recalls.

“That led to a gigantic letdown and tears when the (proposed) memorial had nothing to do with that.” And, in fact, Sandy Hook is still working on its memorial. (The school was torn down after the shooting, and a new one built on the same site.)

Kyle Lyddy grew up in Newtown, a city of 28,000. He’s now chairman of the Sandy Hook Permanent Memorial Commission, which was appointed nine months after the shooting.

After nearly four years, the commission finally has a site for its memorial, about a quarter-mile from the school, on donated land. That location was chosen from a list

A P P H O T O /J O H N L O C H E R

THE MEMORY’S STILL FRESH Some two weeks after the Route 91 shootings, Jenni Tillett inscribes a message at the Las Vegas Community Healing Garden. The garden has become a powerful symbol of community grief.

of 30 suggestions. It also has a 30-page document to guide and memorialize the work that’s gone into the project.

“That’s from surveys of community members, input qualitative and quantitative; we solicited community members at large,” Lyddy says. The Sandy Hook commission is now taking design ideas. What would Lyddy like to see?

“I’ve tried to be so unbiased and navigate it appropriately,” Lyddy says. “But I think just continuing to comprehend and understand the individuals rather than the event. I just envision something tranquil, quiet, peaceful.”

One issue that any Route 91 memorial effort will have to confront is location. It’s hard to imagine the entire 15-acre festival site — which MGM Resorts International paid $37 million for four years ago — being dedicated to it.

Perhaps a corner of the site, dedicated to quiet contemplation, Young suggests.

“And you may want to consecrate the place and for the first year, we remember this and the victims,” he adds. “And we’re not going to celebrate where and how they died — we’re going to celebrate their lives, and have a memorial concert, and it’s going to show how we come back and we retake the city.”

MGM didn’t respond to a request for comment.

One of the unfortunate aspects of being on a memorial commission is that you end up visiting other communities that have suffered, to learn how they handled it. Sandy Hook studied Columbine. Barbara Poma will look at Sandy Hook, New York City, and Oklahoma City.

Poma is the owner of Pulse nightclub in Orlando. On June 12, 2016, a man entered the gay club and gunned down 49, injuring another 53. Until Las Vegas, it was the worst mass shooting in modern U.S. history.

“Sadly, we have quite a few people who’ve come before us and led the journey and know what works and what doesn’t,” Poma says.

Poma is the founder and executive director of onePULSE Foundation. It was established to “oversee a community initiative to create a permanent memorial to Pulse and those who perished.”

The Sandy Hook committee took years to find the right location. In Poma’s case, that was resolved quickly: It’ll be on the site of her nightclub.

Poma acknowledges that some in Orlando’s business community just want the issue to go away. Nonetheless, the onePULSE Foundation website is surveying the public about a memorial to come up with something that fits myriad desires. The

D E S E R T C O M P A N I O N .V E G A S

Hear more Listen to KNPR’s special coverage of the Route 91 shooting, from interviews to discussions, on “State of Nevada” at knpr.org.

questions it asks speak to the complexities ahead. For instance, should the memorial be a gathering place to celebrate love and life? Should it be educational? Should it include an LGBTQ focus? Should it speak to terrorism and hate crimes? Should the club be torn down?

Poma can’t envision what the memorial will look like; she doesn’t want to. “I love that I have no ideas because I can’t wait to see what the competition brings to us.”

But she does know this: “It’ll have a dual purpose, so that the lives taken are honored and never forgotten,” she says. “And it’s part of American history at this point. When my children have children, I want them to be able to learn about it and go to the site and understand what happened.”

Amanda Fortini, a journalist and visiting

professor at UNLV, wrote about the shooting for The New Yorker. She thinks the idea of a memorial, especially on the Strip, has the potential to create tension: “Between people who want to remember and people who want to move on,” she says. “People are here and trying to have fun, and the Strip is a business. How much do people want to look at it?

“That’s not to say the wounded or survivors wouldn’t want to memorialize it,” Fortini adds. “It makes perfect sense to have the impulse to memorialize it. ... But I could see where some might just want to forget.”

It wouldn’t be the first time. In November 1980, a fire in the MGM hotel-casino (now Bally’s) killed 85 people. Thirty-seven years later, you won’t find any reminder of it on the Strip. ✦

You ❤ love NEVADA We do, too.

2

Poem

Gregory Crosby Marked Himself Safe During the Violent Incident in Las Vegas, Nevada BY

Gregory Crosby

Easily done — I wasn’t there, except I was. That morning I awoke from a nightmare where I watched New York City burn beneath a boiling mushroom cloud, someone screaming nearby, but I couldn’t see them, I was alone, I was watching the end alone, waiting for the shockwave, waiting to die alone with others, with others, alone. I forced myself to wake before the shockwave hit, my love next to me, morning light at the edges of the room.

In my hometown, strange city of my heart, a cloud awoke on the thirty-second floor of Mandalay Bay — a black void in gold, a missing tooth in the face of the sun, a window that should never open, darkness

Together let’s keep Nevada a place where nature and people can thrive.

behind it, glinting. A line of fire.

First the flash, then the wave, wave after wave.

Am I safe? Yes, I’m safe. Am I safe? No, no, I’m not safe at all. It never ends.

Someone always screaming nearby. Alone.

With others. It’s automatic. There’s no

Learn more at nature.org/nevada

dream, nothing to wake from. We’ve been awake for a long time now. We have marked ourselves safe so that others can die. Did a cloud swallow the sun or the sun swallow a cloud? A line of fire. A cloudburst.

The shockwave passes & we wait. We wait.

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T H R E E | RIFF

Think Piece How philosophy is and isn’t like Las Vegas — especially now BY

James Woodbridge

W

orld Philosophy Day (November 16) usually passes without my notice, even though I am a member of the UNLV philosophy department. (I feel sheepish about saying, “I’m a philosopher,” but I suppose this makes me one.) This year, however, having been asked for some reflections on the day, I will consider a recent popular piece by philosopher and cognitive scientist Daniel Dennett entitled “Philosophy as the Las Vegas of Rational Inquiry.”

While I appreciate some of what Dennett’s analogy suggests — that philosophy, like our city, is open and challenges assumptions and conventions — there is a simple reading of Dennett’s idea (a reading he flirts with himself ) that involves caricatures of both philosophy and Las Vegas. This reading relates the two by thinking of both primarily in terms of recklessness.

They are viewed as places where “anything goes,” with the suggestion that, as with Las Vegas, it’s a good thing that “what happens in philosophy stays in philosophy.” Of course, to those of us who live here, Las Vegas isn’t about recklessness or merely trivial, purely recreational activity. Philosophy isn’t about this, either. It is sometimes mistaken as a storehouse of crazy ideas or wise sayings. But philosophy is not so much a body of knowledge buried in old texts as it is an activity, a way of approaching issues, embedded in a living discipline.

The openness of philosophy does come out in the questions it is willing to ask and attempt to answer — the nature of goodness, the possibility of knowledge, the basis of mental activity, the limits of existence. But one can do philosophy on almost any topic. This is in part because good philosophy is far from an “anything goes” pursuit with respect to method. Reasoning and rationality are paramount, and, as a result, so are carefulness, skepticism toward comforting or convenient explanations, and rigorous critical analysis of arguments. It was these aspects of philosophy that I emphasized to my students the day after last month’s shooting, as shock and confusion cracked open doors to ungrounded speculation. And when our city responded so quickly, with such grace and generosity, I thought of a different way that philosophy is like Las Vegas. As our community offered a model for responding to tragedy, philosophy, in the demands of its methods, offers a model for inquiry in general. It is more than just a playroom for rational inquiry. ✦

4 List

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24 | D E S E R T

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ILLUSTRATION B rent Holmes

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F I V E | PROFILE

Ross Bryant

Director, UNLV’s Military and Veteran Services Center BY

Heidi Kyser

I

n the late 2000s, UNLV officials were alarmed by news reports of a million military veterans returning from the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan and enrolling in colleges and universities that were largely unprepared to welcome former combatants. In 2012, university leadership tapped Ross Bryant, a retired 24-year Army veteran and former UNLV Army ROTC professor, to start the Military and Veteran Services Center.

The timing was good for Bryant. After six years of developing see-something-say-something training programs for Strip employees at the Institute for Security Studies, he lost his job when Nevada lost its Homeland Security funding. He’d landed a position working on community security projects at UNLV’s Harry Reid Center, but it was temporary, and anyway, Bryant likes helping people more than managing projects.

“I love this campus. I love this school,” he says. “Things are far from perfect. There’s a lot of turmoil going on on college campuses right now, including here. I don’t focus on any of that. I focus on the folks coming here.”

Bryant recalls two of the first people to walk through the center’s door: a husband and wife, both former Airborne sergeants, and Iraq and Afghanistan veterans. The husband had been medically discharged, against his wishes, due to a severe back and leg injury, and walked with a cane. The wife had left the Army after her second tour in Afghanistan. They had a 2-year-old daughter, and the whole family had driven from Alaska to Las Vegas, drawn by sunny weather and the promise of an education at UNLV. “Unfortunately, Nevada didn’t have its laws changed to take this influx of vets from the war,” Bryant says. “If you came to school here and you didn’t go to high school in Nevada — this is a public state school — you ended up paying out-of-state tuition, (which was) $7,000. … Nothing says, ‘Welcome home’ like, ‘You owe us 14 grand.’”

Over the ensuing years, Bryant and representatives of student organization Rebel Vets have worked with state and federal legislators to get the law changed. Today, veterans from anywhere in the U.S. can use their GI Bill benefits to go to any Nevada college or university, within five years of being discharged, without paying out-of-state tuition.

Meanwhile, the center carries on its day-to-day work of helping veterans adapt to student life. It offers an orientation, academic mentoring, peer-to-peer support and other services that help vets successfully achieve what Bryant calls a “transition of purpose” — figuring out their mission in life after the military.

The center started with 300 veterans and now has 1,800, about 5 percent of UNLV’s total student population; 317 are women. This semester, 341 veterans enrolled, and nearly half went through the center’s orientation. Bryant credits Rebel Vets’ hard work for the widespread awareness. But Student Vets of America, the national organization, believes that Bryant himself has something to do with the center’s success. In January, it picked him from among its 1,400 national chapters as Adviser of the Year.

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THIS MONTH, Norwegian Air Shuttle will resume its seasonal service between Las Vegas and four European cities. The airline suspended the flights in March because excessive heat had caused it to regularly delay flights out of McCarran International Airport the previous summer. Norwegian Air wasn’t alone. The Las Vegas Review-Journal reported in August that dozens of flights from Vegas were delayed or cancelled during this summer’s record-breaking heat.

Why does heat cause flights to be cancelled? No, it’s not because the tarmac is melting. It has to do with plane weight and air density. “As air temperatures rise at constant pressure, air density declines, resulting in less lift generation by an aircraft wing at a given airspeed, and potentially

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PORTRAIT L ucky Wenzel

7 D E S E R T C O M P A N I O N .V E G A S

WRITE STUFF!

How to finesse National Novel Writing Month, by someone who knows

HOW DO YOU WRITE SO MANY WORDS SO QUICKLY? Dedication, lack of regard for plot, questionable priorities, and a whole lot of coffee. Fifty-thousand words in 30 days is 1,667 a day. Many writers can get their daily count in an hour or two.

WHAT IF I HAVEN’T FINISHED MY OUTLINE YET? It’s easy to bog down in researching and fine-tuning and never actually write the story.

We have a mantra here at NaNo: November is for writing.

December is for editing.

WHAT IF I HATE MY PROTAGONISTS? Identify what you dislike. Are they boring?

Throw them into a ridiculous situation that forces them to be inventive. Is their best friend more interesting?

Make the best friend your protagonist. Forget convention.

Write what feels right.

imposing a weight restriction on departing aircraft,” wrote the team of researchers behind the article “The impacts of rising temperatures on aircraft takeoff performance” in the September issue of the journal Climatic Change.

The solutions? Lighter loads, longer runways (to build greater speed), or more departures during cooler hours. The latter solution was chosen by Hainan Airlines, which moved its two nonstop Las Vegas-Beijing flights from 2 p.m. to 1 a.m.

Others may be forced to follow suit. The Climatic Change study predicts that, by the middle to end of this century, an average of 10-30 percent of annual flights departing at the hottest time of day will have to be lighter in order to take off. Heidi Kyser

I L LU S T R AT I O N : S C OT T D I C K E N S H E E T S

WHAT IF I RUN OUT OF IDEAS? Set a timer for five minutes and type until the timer runs out. This stream of consciousness free-writing can help unstick your brain. Or visit a Vegas Wrimos event and get inspiration from fellow writers.

WHAT IF MY NOVEL IS TERRIBLE? Here’s a secret: No first draft in the history of writing has been good. The point of writing a first draft is to have something to edit later. Forget about writing something perfect. You’re filling a sandbox today so you can build castles tomorrow.

Rachel Salyer is a 12-year participant in NaNoWriMo and a Las Vegas liaison for the event.

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Bad Spice N I N E | TRUE CRIME

Orange jumpsuit is the new red carpet for a drug-making movie man whose downfall began in Las Vegas

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Yes, Etch-a-Sketch Artist Dave Roberts and his unusual medium BY

Scott Dickensheets

Once you clear the WTF? hurdle — and we know it might take a minute — there are some interesting things to note about Dave Roberts’ Etch-a-Sketch images beyond the simple novelty of making art with a toy.

First: “Yes,” addressing the obvious question, “it’s as hard as it looks.” Imagine drawing when your hand can’t cradle and control the pencil tip. You must manipulate it remotely, using motions not usually associated with drawing to move dials that let you draw only vertically or horizontally; curves require such a pinpoint, simultaneous coordination of both that for most it only happens by accident or serious skill. You and I? We’d be lucky to draw an acceptable stick figure under those conditions. Roberts is working on an image of Bellagio that actually looks like Bellagio.

Second: Unlike more traditional artists, who often impart a distinctive visual quality to their brush- or pen strokes, the Etch-a-Sketch artist can’t show his hand.

Given the nature of the toy, that’d mean he’s screwed up, his line gone astray.

In a medium that’s all about the difficulty of control, the minimum threshold of acceptability is perfection.

Third: Imagine the meticulousness required. So much, in fact, that patience and focus are in some ways the art’s content as much as the image. Take Bellagio, above. How many hours you got into that so far, Dave?

“About 25,” he estimates. He’s half-done.

Roberts, 35, started tinkering with Etch-a-Sketches in high school — “I saw I could kind of do something with it” — though he contented himself mostly with cartoon characters. He began upping his game in 2001, moving first to portraits, then to more complex scenes: buildings, a stand of palm trees.

“A year and a half ago, I hunkered down, I was like, I gotta do this every day — it’s now or never.” He works the graveyard shift as a maintenance carpenter on the Strip, meaning he has late-night, kid-free time to bear down on this. As far as he or we know, he’s the only Etch-a-Sketch artist in Vegas, though he networks with a few others nationwide, and has come to the attention of the game’s maker.

“People’s reaction keeps me going,” he says. As does the medium itself. “It keeps taunting me. Can I do this? Then I try it. And it keeps kind of coming out the way I want it to.” People are sometimes skeptical. That was Photoshopped, It’s not real.

Shush. It’s real.

Can he even imagine wanting to go into another art form? He’s tried his hand at charcoal drawing, watercolors ... nah. “This is my thing, and I love it,” he says. “I can’t even imagine wanting to go into another art form.” ✦

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BY

Glen Meek

FADE IN:

INT. THE SUNDANCE FILM FESTIVAL, PARK CITY, UTAH — DAY All smiles for the paparazzi, independent movie producer BURTON RITCHIE strolls the red carpet for the screening of his latest film, a documentary about stand-up comedians, directed by his buddy, actor Kevin Pollak.

D I S S O LV E T O :

INT. U.S. COURTHOUSE, NORFOLK VIRGINIA, TWO YEARS LATER — DAY BURTON RITCHIE is not facing paparazzi today. He is facing U.S. DISTRICT JUDGE RAYMOND JACKSON. JACKSON is about to impose sentence on RITCHIE for his convictions on conspiracy and drug distribution charges. RITCHIE is wearing the orange jumpsuit that’s standard dress for residents of the Tidewater Western Regional Jail.

JUDGE JACKSON:

The Court finds ... that you were a clever, corrupt drug dealer who made millions of profits from this episode, corrupted other people, destroyed other people’s lives, got other people in prison, all because of your dealings.

With that, JACKSON sentences RITCHIE, 46-year-old father of two with virtually no criminal history, to more than three decades in a federal penitentiary ...

FADE OUT

PHOTOGRAPHY AND ILLUSTRATION B rent Holmes

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on Pensacola Beach before he was 21 years old, without financial backing from family.”

That T-shirt business led to other enterprises, including a chain of smoke shops called Psychedelic Shacks — in which a product called Sonic, an early form of spice, flew off the shelves. Indeed, Ritchie couldn’t keep up with demand. So he went into the spice business himself, manufacturing his own under names like Bizarro, Neutronium, and Orgazmo. He retailed it out of his smoke shops and sold it wholesale to others. It was a huge hit. According to court records, Ritchie and partner Ben Galecki raked in more than $20 million from spice in less than a year.

But the 2012 raid in Las Vegas, which didn’t result in immediate charges, was a wake-up call. “I decided to cease manufacturing as a result of that raid,” he said in deposition for a wrongful death lawsuit filed by a couple whose son died after smoking Zencense spice.

In December 2012, Ritchie and Galecki sold Zencense to Victor Natoli, a California smoke shop maven. He continued to make spice under the corporate moniker ZenBio. Though Ritchie was no longer involved, federal prosecutors allege that he received profits from ZenBio until April 2013. ❉ ❉ ❉ ❉ ❉

H

ow did this moviemaker who played charit y poker w ith Chelsea Clinton and produced films starring Glenn Close and Kristen Wiig wind up as federal inmate #23554-017? The story of Burton Ritchie’s rise and fall could be a screenplay. His rise would be set in Florida — but his fall began in Las Vegas, in a nondescript warehouse. ❉ ❉ ❉ ❉ ❉

2012, agents from the Drug Enforcement Agency and Internal Revenue Service served a search warrant at 5435 Desert Point Drive, part of a warehouse complex not far from the Orleans hotel-casino.

Inside, agents found one man, 29-year-old Ryan Eaton, and all the makings for spice, commonly referred to as synthetic marijuana.

Foil pouches of spice have been sold in gas stations and head shops as potpourri or incense, though some users smoke it like marijuana. It’s composed of ground-up plant leaves sprayed with powerful, mood-altering, synthetic cannabinoids. These chemicals act on the same receptors in the brain as the THC in pot. But synthetic cannabinoids can produce far more powerful effects and can cause serious, even fatal, medical reactions.

“If you wanted to take THC and raise it

ON JULY 25,

to an exponential power, that’s what these drugs are,” says Paul Doering, a professor of pharmacology at the University of Florida Although not illegal, per se, at that time (it would be within a year), officials considered it a controlled substance under what’s known as the “analogues” act. This outlawed newly created “designer” drugs that are substantially similar to existing controlled substances. For the spice trade, underground chemists constantly tweaked their formulas to stay ahead of laws banning them. In Las Vegas, investigators seized about seven kilograms of the synthetic cannabinoid XLR11, which had been imported from China.

Information from the warehouse linked the spice-making operation to Zencense Incense Works in Pensacola, Florida. According to court documents, Zencense had moved spice production from Florida to Las Vegas because the chemicals dried more quickly in the desert. The co-owner and executive in charge of Zencense was Burton Ritchie.

Ritchie was not a central-casting drug dealer. In many ways, he was an all-American entrepreneur. “He was determined to succeed in life, and he did,” his mother, Linda Crews, wrote in a letter to Judge Jackson.

“Burton’s continued self-motivation led him to independently start a T-shirt business

AFTER SELLING ZENCENSE and the Psychedelic Shacks, Ritchie moved himself, his wife, and two young children to Park City, Utah, where he bought a house worth more than a million dollars, and became a fixture at the Sundance Film Festival. Before getting out of the synthetic cannabinoids business, Ritchie and Galecki had formed a production company called Heretic Films. Spice had given them money to finance movies, and the company flourished. Among the movies it played a role in: Welcome to Me (2014), starring Kristen Wiig and Tim Robbins; Low Down (2014), starring Glenn Close and Elle Fanning; and Misery Loves Comedy (2015), a documentary directed by actor Kevin Pollak that starred some of the biggest names in standup comedy.

He was also an avid poker player, finishing in the money at the World Series of Poker in Las Vegas three years running. According to his biography on the Internet Movie Database, Ritchie “got his start in producing (movies) after he won a walk-on part in Red 2 while playing in a charity tournament in support of the Clinton Foundation.”

Photographs show Ritchie chatting amiably with Chelsea Clinton across a poker table.

In January 2015, at the Sundance Film Festival, Tribeca Films announced it had purchased the rights to distribute Misery N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 7

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Loves Comedy. Ritchie, the producer, stood beaming on the red carpet. It may have been the pinnacle of his success.

But at the same time, federal agents were piecing together a picture of a nationwide spice distribution network for Zencense and ZenBio, involving hundreds of people.

Indictments followed in Norfolk, Virginia; Duluth, Minnesota; San Francisco; Mobile, Alabama — and Las Vegas.

And there were the wrongful death suits.

One was filed by the parents of 20-year-old Karl Ladue, of Talent, Oregon. He went into a rage after smoking Bizarro. Police officers shocked him nearly two dozen times with a taser. As three officers struggled to take him into custody, Ladue stopped breathing.

In Oswego, New York, Teresa Woolson’s

10

Drawing

19-year-old son, Victor, went for a swim after he and a friend smoked a package of Avalanche. He began flailing and drowned.

Woolson sued Zencense and Burton Ritchie.

“All these people that bought his products?

Their lives are devastated, all over the United States. Yet he’s mingling with the rich and famous like he did nothing wrong,” she said.

In a deposition for Ladue’s suit (trial is set for November 6), Ritchie said he’d never seen anyone smoke his products.

He’d heard reports of maybe four people claiming adverse reactions, but said he later discovered they had used actual illegal drugs.

“We were always the scapegoat,” Ritchie testified. “When in fact they’d been using heroin or methamphetamine or actual illegal substances and didn’t want to confess.”

Sense of Place An artist remembers his old neighborhood ILLUSTRATION

Gary Mar

D E S E R T C O M P A N I O N .V E G A S

❉ ❉ ❉ ❉ ❉ ON THE DAY Ritchie testified in that deposition, a warrant for his arrest was issued in Norfolk on spice-related charges. More indictments followed Alabama and in Nevada, where Ryan Eaton was also charged. Meanwhile, other figures in the spice conspiracy had been indicted. Victor Natoli pleaded guilty and agreed to testify for the government. A former Zencense bookkeeper also rolled.

In October 2016, Ritchie and Galecki went on trial in Virginia. The jury could not reach a unanimous verdict — a few jurors were reportedly hung on the issue of whether XLR-11 was, in fact, an analogue of an actual illegal drug. A mistrial was declared. But Galecki and Ritchie were retried in January, and both were found guilty on all counts.

Prior to sentencing, letters from friends and associates were submitted to the court on Ritchie’s behalf. Kevin Pollak’s appears to be the only one from a Hollywood celebrity: “I have never witnessed even the possibility of selfish, negative or harmful intent from Mr. Ritchie, nor do I think him capable. With rehabilitation available in today’s society at its most varied and successful in history, it seems an injustice to incarcerate an otherwise remarkably intelligent, respectful and thoughtful citizen.”

In asking for leniency, Ritchie and his lawyer insisted that Ritchie had relied on legal and scientific opinions that the chemicals he was using were not illegal. Judge Jackson was unconvinced: “(I)t’s very clear you were involved in committing this offense long before you consulted any lawyer. ...

The truth is that you were involved in one massive drug-dealing operation.” Although Ritchie’s lawyer asked for a sentence of five years, Jackson handed Ritchie 32 years, which he is serving in Talladega, Florida.

As for the wrongful-death suits, they’re still active, though the feds have seized most of Ritchie’s assets and will likely retain them until criminal proceedings in all jurisdictions are complete. Teresa Woolson now runs the Victor O. Woolson (VOW) Foundation, named after her son, which provides synthetic-drug education.

“At least I feel that some justice has come,” she says. “He’s not out there making movies anymore, or going to film festivals, or living in a million dollar mansion. He’s in jail.”

Where he’s scheduled to remain until at least 2044. He still faces additional trials in Alabama, and in Las Vegas, where his court date was bumped from last month to next May. ✦ N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 7

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NION D E S E R T CO M PA

PUB CRAWL at THE DISTRICT NCH A R Y E L L A GREEN V

That night we had a few drinks, engaged in a little revelry and gave away Elvis Costello tickets at The District.

We can’t wait ’til the next one!

A LL OUT FOOD, CULTURE, STYLE, AND OTHER PULSE-OF-THE-CITY STUFF

Accent Marks the Spot D I N I N G | AT FIRST BITE

Bandito’s lively food and vibrant atmosphere are novel — but much more than a mere novelty BY

I

t’s hard to miss the gleaming architecture of Bandito Latin Kitchen & Cantina along East Flamingo. With a tall, vaulted ceiling and window-filled walls wrapped in horizontal brise-soleil screens, it’s a completely different aesthetic than the stucco and wrought iron commonly featured in restaurants serving south-of-the-border dishes. The cuisine is just as visually striking. There’s not a shred of iceberg lettuce, sliced black olives, or bland cheddar in this Mexican-inspired eatery. Instead, get ready to dine on ingredients such as octopus, Romanesco cauliflower, and blood oranges.

PHOTOGRAPHY S abin Orr

Greg Thilmont

OCHO DELICIOUS Fried octopus with charred cauliflower and bell pepper strips

Opened in early summer, Bandito is the creation of local entrepreneur Kent Harman. He was the longtime director of operations at the city’s original upscale Latin American eatery, Border Grill at Mandalay Bay. Executive Chef Chris Kight helms the kitchen; his pedigree includes cooking under not only Gordon Ramsay in London, but Thomas Keller in Napa Valley, too. It’s easy to detect the influence of these master chefs in this new dining destination, but that influence doesn’t feel borrowed or derivative. Harman and Kight’s dishes, rather, are more of a relaxed reinterpretation of techniques. And yet, there’s N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 7

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FOWL AND FISH Above, brick-pressed roasted chicken with guajillo-thyme jus; right, ceviche with scallops, shrimp, octopus and whitefish

EAT THIS NOW: GARLIC CHICKEN PANINI AT BOSA BOBA CAFE

When a friend asks for a really great Italian sandwich, you probably don’t send them to a Vietnamese cafe. But we live in the future now, and the future doesn’t care if your cuisine is better known for French infusions: If you want to make a perfectly pressed panini with pounded chicken, an oozing blend of Swiss and provolone, and a zingy garlic sauce that could beat aioli in a pizza-tossing contest, you do that — with spinach. Bosa Boba Cafe is a spinoff of Las Vegas’ beloved Phó Bosa Kitchen, masters of regional speciality soups that are hard to pronounce but easy to love, and it shows in their superiority. Pair your panini with a “Special-Tea” laced with basil seeds, and well, that’s amore.

Kristy Totten

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BRENT HOLMES

Spring Mountain Road #35, 702-234-2391, bosabobacafe.com

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nothing precious going on here — there are burritos, after all.

Burritos, in fact, are a perfect introduction to the approachable lunch menu (they’re not served at dinner). Substantial but not overloaded, they’re available with a variety of meats — chicken tinga, pork carnitas and al pastor, beef carne asada, and sautéed shrimp. The fillings also include black bean purée, charro beans, achiote rice, and a blend of cheeses. They’re topped with a choice of house sauces. On my first visit, I asked for a half-and-half combo of creamed salsa verde in one end and pasilla-pepita on the other for a double taste. The former was smooth and lemony; the latter, nutty from the pumpkin seeds. My al pastor selection had a distinct, pineapple-tinged tropical zing. The burrito arrived with a dollop of fresh guacamole and an additional side of elotes, or Mexican street corn. This grilled preparation of maize is a current darling of the dining scene, street to table. This version is off-the-cob and luxurious with crema and spices.

Taco plates, made with housemade corn tortillas, expand upon the burrito tableau with added choices of fish (deep fried or grilled), beef barbacoa, and braised octopus.

The fresh fish edition is a standout. There’s also a trio of tortas — steak, turkey-chorizo albondigas (meatballs), and roasted veggies with chipotle.

Bandito’s starter menu, served during both lunch and dinner, is impressive if not expansive. There are the familiar appetizers, such as a well-prepared and prodigious guacamole, a spicy “Queso Bandito” dip, chicken quesadillas, nachos, and tamales.

There are also more ambitious offerings.

In a such a colorful restaurant, the turkey-chorizo albondigas in creamed salsa verde and cotija is one of the more muted items, at least in terms of hue, but they have a piquant tang. But the real showstoppers are the ceviche and the fried octopus small plates. The ceviche is one of the best in town, vibrant and even playful, with diced scallops, shrimp, octopus, and whitefish citrus-cured with English cucumbers, red onions, watermelon radishes, and jalapeños. Even more striking is the octopus presentation, which mixes crisp-crusted octopus with charred cauliflower florets and bell pepper strips atop smoky red salsa. For light dishes, a trio of salads are available, including arugula with chicharrones, rainbow baby carrots, roasted corn, tomatoes, queso fresco, and agave-guajillo vinaigrette.

The dinner menu expands into a selection of entrées. For the most interactive choice, the “La Plancha” is Bandito’s interpretation of fajitas on overdrive. Piping-hot chicken, carnitas, al pastor, carne asada or shrimp is served with all the fixings: tortillas, caramelized onions, roasted peppers, purple cauliflower, pico de gallo, guacamole, charred jalapeños, and lime crema. A New York strip comes with street corn and potatoes al pastor. For seafood, there are daily catches, as well as shrimp tossed in incendiary habanero pepper sauce.

BANDITO 325 Hughes Center Drive 702-857-7550, banditolv.com HOURS Sun-Thu 11a-10p; Fri-Sat 11a-11p

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Table 34 Featuring Chef Wes Kendricks’ contemporary American cuisine including fresh fish, wild game, duck, lamb, Certified Angus Beef, and comfort food classics. Conveniently located off the 215 and Warm Springs. Dinner Tuesday Saturday 5pm until closing (around 10pm) 600 E. Warm Springs Road Las Vegas, NV (702) 263-0034

Unique, however, is the understated but delicious brick-pressed roasted chicken.

Tender breast meat is served in an elegant guajillo-thyme jus with a prodigious side of potatoes, pickled fennel, and more of the multi-colored cauliflower. It’s not Mexican in the beans-and-rice Sonoran-Chihuahuan sense at all; rather, it’s more indicative of the refined cooking of modern Mexico City.

The dessert list is slim, but has a couple of noteworthy items designed by star pastry chef Megan Romano. To wit, fork into a chocolate brownie tower with layers of dulce de leche mousse. The house pineapple upside-down cake gets a nice Mesoamerican twist with a bit of polenta in the batter.

The bar program is expansive. As the uniting tentpole of the dining room, as well as the adjacent Strip-facing patio, it’s where a spectrum of house margaritas are poured, like the emerald Cenote Verde with Chartreuse and green tomato shooter; the rosy Sandia with watermelon flavors; and the dusky Smoking Bandito with a spicy adobada-infused tequila añejo. Another must-try is the El Cazo cocktail. It’s zippy, with Mt. Gay Rum, Cointreau, fresh grapefruit juice, and soda water.

In my multiple visits, only a few minor quibbles arose. A jalapeño-cheese tamale was a tad dry and needed a good dose of salsa.

A couple of taco tortillas could have used a few more blistering seconds on the open kitchen’s griddle. An order of fried octopus could have used fewer seconds in hot oil.

Nothing majorly wrong, though. Bandito isn’t serving revelatory food, but it’s fun to look at and a pleasure to eat — a happy antidote to typical strip-mall Latin fare. ✦

Go Fetch Adventure.

This is no shelter. This is no roadside diversion. This is Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, a lifesaving haven for hundreds of adoptable animals, nestled in between the sprawling red rocks of Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks. Lengthen your leash and experience for yourself the nature and nurture of the largest sanctuary of its kind in America.

Book your visit at bestfriends.org/fetch

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Season’s Eatings

Warm and Haute

( 1 ) S T E L L A R B AY OY S T E R S W I T H R A ZO R C L A M A N D ALASKAN KING CRAB

at Twist

(2) GULF SHRIMP PASTA WITH GUANCIALE AND WILD MUSHROOMS

at Delmonico Steakhouse

Winter menus are about foods that can be preserved, cured, dried, or otherwise pulled from a cold, unforgiving wilderness. The Gulf Coast cuisine at Delmonico honors regional culinary traditions with this pan-European pasta dish. Curly torchio pasta is served in a spice-rich white wine and butter sauce, with diced guanciale (cured pork

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Five winter dishes that comfort with culinary flair BY

Mitchell Wilburn

3 cheek), chanterelle mushrooms, and white gulf shrimp. (Venetian, 702-414-3737) SUNCHOKE SOUP W I T H R AC L E T T E T OA S T

at Sage

Known for adventurous combinations, Sage has paired motifs from several trans-alpine dishes in this creamy sunchoke

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soup (a seasonal root of a sunflower) by adding roasted potatoes, cured pork cheek, and a crisp of raclette cheese. This is a dish for true cheese-lovers, as raclette is one of the funkiest ones around, and also the traditional base for Swiss fondue. (Aria, 702-5908690) FOIE GRAS F R E N C H TOA ST

at Bardot Brasserie Home of the best brunch in town, Bardot already boasts the most lovingly labor-intensive French toast. Now you can have it with a three-ounce slice of seared foie gras and a cassis compote.

Traditionally, foie gras is harvested in fall and winter, when the ducks eat as much as they can to store fat in their liver for

(3) S H O R T R I B GRILLED CHEESE

at Carson Kitchen

Carson Kitchen is all about elevated comfort food, and no dish embodies this like its short rib grilled cheese. It’s got all the gooey, crispy nostalgic goodness of classic grilled cheese, but the ingredients — braised beef short rib, melted Gouda, and toasted sourdough — will inspire new memories. (Downtown, carsonkitchen.com) PHOTOGRAPHY S abin Orr

SHORT RIB GRILLED CHEESE: CHRIS WESSLING; G U L F S H R I M P PA S TA : C O U R T E S Y D E L M O N I C O

1

Fun fact: Oysters and lobsters were on the table for the first Thanksgiving. At Twist, Chef Frederic Don employs classic techniques to build a modern masterpiece. Two fat, fluffy oysters from Vancouver, warmed by a citrus beurre blanc, are served in the shell with chopped meaty razor clam and buttery Alaskan king crab, finished with a touch of brunoise celery and a buckwheat tuile chip. Imagine a seafood feast distilled into two bites. (Mandarin Oriental, 702-590-8888)

the long flight south. It’s still the season when the foie gras is the best (especially from La Belle, Bardot’s supplier), and definitely the best time to enjoy a phenomenal French toast. (Aria, 702-590-8610)

Drawn In F E S T I VA L | COMIC BOOKS

THE

Hot Seat

Nerds! Heroes! Creators! Cosplay! Workshops! Manga! KAPOW! B Y

Scott Dickensheets

S

ince you’re asking, yes, there will be a steampunk band led by a 6-foot trumpet-playing rabbit. (Puppets are also rumored to be involved.)

Really, was there any doubt? This is, after all the Vegas Valley Comic Book Festival we’re talking about (November 4, vegasvalleycomicbookfestival.org). Damn well better be fun, especially now.

It’ll be a little brainy, too. There will be an Oregon professor on hand to talk about college-level comics studies — it’s an academic thing. And because comics aren’t immune to cultural politics, a panel of creators and commentators will examine the enduring gender stereotype of the femme fatale, and ways to get past it. Another panel will acknowledge women cartoonists of the 1960s-1990s who used their work to advance feminist causes.

Throw in a movie about Neil Gaiman (Dream Dangerously), information about shepherding your creation from self-publishing to film, workshops on drawing robots, monsters, and Deadpool, plus lots more, and a ton of comics, and, well, KAPOW!

visual arts

ELEGANT CREATURES SUMMERLIN LIBRARY

Lolita Develay’s subject in these paintings is, according to the library’s flacks, “luxury fashion displays as an investigation into consumer culture.” But get an eyeful of the visual pizazz of the painting above — how could you not want to consume it?! Making this, one supposes, both a gorgeous and likably complicated exercise in visual/conceptual dynamics.

Nov. 21 through February 4, lvccld.org

theater

An Octoroon MAJESTIC REPERTORY THEATRE

“Bizarrely brilliant” was The Guardian’s verdict on this play

by Branden Jacobs-Jenkins.

The plot resists easy summary, but it’s based on, and simultaneously dismantles, a popular 19th-century slaves-and-plantation melodrama titled The Octoroon. (An octoroon is someone with one-eighth African-American blood.) It’s about identity, race, and stereotypes so deeply embedded we’re hardly aware of them. Nov. 2-19, Alios Las Vegas, $25, majesticrepertory.com

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ILLUSTRATION C hris Morris

D E S E R T C O M P A N I O N .V E G A S

punk AF

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HENDERSON STROLL AND ROLL

Five days of chaos will engulf this landmark for its silver anniversary celebration.

Bands galore, from local legend Dirk Vermin to The Dickies.

What a legacy it’s marking: 25 years of free shows of punk, garage, surf, lo-fi and more. To say nothing of its status as home base for the city’s misfits. If you’ve tried the Ass Juice, marveled at the bathrooms, or just survived the bacon martini, you know how special this place is. Nov, 22-26,

You’ll want to Google the word ciclovia for the full urban-theory backstory — it’s interesting — but, in essence, it’s a term applied to a social movement that creates community events on temporarily closed streets.

Henderson gets with the no-car program this month with a four-hour closure of a stretch of Paseo Verde Parkway. Families can stroll, dog-walk, skate, or bike on the street, enjoying live music, performers, and other vendors along the way.

Ciclovia! Nov. 18,

various times, free, doubledown saloon.com

10a-2p, free, cityof henderson.com

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THE

Hot Seat

DA N C E

A new step for NBT Artistic Director Roy Kaiser makes his move B Y

Lissa Townsend Rodgers

M

books

CHRIS KRAUS THE WRITER’S BLOCK

Her cult status reinforced by the Kevin Bacon-headlining TV adaptation of her underground novel I Love Dick, Kraus’s latest book examines another cult novelist: transgressive experimentalist Kathy Acker.

Sure to be a mind-expanding reading and convo. Nov. 15, 7p, free, but seating is limited; RSVP at thewritersblock.org

music

Las Vegas Philharmonic THE SMITH CENTER

For Copland in Mexico, conductor Donato Cabrera and the orchestra will mix selections by the emblematic American composer — whose piece “El Salón México” captures the energy of a Mexican dance hall — with works by Mexican composer Silvestre Revueltas. A pre-concert conversation sets up the cultural context. Nov. 4, 6:30p, $30-$109, thesmithcenter.com

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oving from the history-rich and rain-soaked city of Philadelphia to the upstart desert metropolis of Las Vegas might seem like a shock, but not for Roy Kaiser. “In the arts, once you’re in a theater, it doesn’t matter what city you’re in — you’re in a theater, and you’re focused on what’s happening on that stage,” says the new artistic director of Nevada Ballet Theatre.

Previously, Kaiser was the artistic director of the Pennsylvania Ballet for nearly two decades. His own dance career began at age 7, tap dancing with his brothers on national tours and television shows (no, he never played Vegas), but he didn’t pursue ballet until he was 17. “Luckily, I was male.

And I was coordinated,” he says. He joined Pennsylvania Ballet in 1979, eventually becoming company ballet master and finally artistic director.

At Penn Ballet, Kaiser often explored the works of George Balanchine, as well as longer, story ballets such as Giselle and Peter Pan. While he’s “making lists,” he still hasn’t settled on programming for the 2018-19 season. “There’s a lot of talent in this company … and they will drive my decision. That’s a huge part of my programming process.”

His first mission is to learn more about his dancers. “I’ve taught company class a few times. That shows you one side of the dancer, how they work, how they approach a piece,” he says. “In rehearsal, you see a different side of them and how they process that part of the job. On stage is ultimately what it’s all about: I want to see dancers that you relate to, somebody that can engage no matter what role.”

However, Kaiser has already found some familiar faces at NBT. “The dance world is so small,” he says. “Lou Christiansen, whose Beauty and the Beast is here, was an early supporter and encouraging voice in my early ballet training. In our Classic Americana program, Sandra Jennings, who staged Serenade, worked as a ballet mistress at Pennsylvania Ballet with me for many years.” There are some familiar works as well.

“Both Serenade and Western Symphony, I have known and danced for many years. So I know those works intimately — I’m anxious to see how they fit with this company.”

One of the highlights of Kaiser’s tenure at Pennsylvania Ballet was the company’s involvement in the movie Black Swan, which used over a dozen of Penn Ballet’s dancers. And he looks forward to the possibilities Las Vegas offers for collaboration and audience expansion, such as NBT’s annual co-production with Cirque du Soleil, A Choreographers’ Showcase. “I believe that there are collaboration possibilities that I’m not even aware of yet. … It’s a very interesting creative energy, it takes you out of your comfort zone and what you’re used to doing. There’s nothing else like it in the dance world or the ballet world.”

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Dancer photo by Bill Hughes

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T H E AT E R

Live Well, Die Well

To stage the cancer-themed play W;t, A Public Fit theater company reached out to women who know the subject BY

Kristen Peterson

G

inger Tangedal hadn’t seen Margaret Edson’s Pulitzer Prize-winning play, W;t, when she was asked to consult with a local theater company for the oneact drama, in which a callous but accomplished academic is dying of ovarian cancer and learning her most surprising lesson in life.

That Vivian, the play’s heroine, dies is no secret. W;t is about life, staged in the face of death.

Still, when Tangedal, a former hairdresser from Orange County, finally watched the HBO movie, she could only do so in 20-minute increments. “It was tough,” she says, straying only momentarily from the upbeat personality she maintains even while living with Stage 3 ovarian cancer, which required the removal of her colon. “But I’m one of the fortunate ones. I have kept my sense of humor. My colostomy really keeps my sense of humor intact.”

Humor creeps into the poignant journey of W;t, despite the tragedy of the disease,

with which more than 20,000 women are diagnosed annually. “Touching, well-written, and complicated,” is how A Public Fit Theatre Company’s co-founder Ann Marie Pereth describes Edson’s work.

To effectively stage it, she sought input.

Barbara Cadwell, nurse practitioner and director of chemotherapy at Women’s Cancer Center, welcomed Pereth’s call.

She loaned wheelchairs, pumps, and other medical tools for the production, sat in on rehearsals, and has shown actors how to give a medical exam, catheterize, and use chemo bags. She also connected Pereth to Tangedal. The two spent hours together, Pereth gaining invaluable perspective on the disease from the still-vibrant patient.

“She’s living well,” Pereth says with evident fondness. “And she’s going to die well.”

There is no early test for the disease and no cure, but Tangedal says her own cancer could have been detected earlier in a physical exam had she not heeded the advice that women her age didn’t need annual exams.

Aside from the “killer chemo,” her own life couldn’t be further in character from that of the protagonist, a 50-year-old poetry professor (played by Tina Rice), who has opted for knowledge over compassion. Vivian’s life’s work has been the metaphysical poetry of the semicolon-loving John Donne, and

W;t

THROUGH NOV. 19 $25-$30, A Public Fit’s The Usual Place, 100 S. Maryland Parkway, 702-735-2114

she has no close friends. The same can’t be said of Tangedal, who attended a couple of fundraisers for A Public Fit — including one in which she gave a “hilarious” reading of Laura from The Glass Menagerie.

“We live our lives as if we’re immortal until it comes slapping us in the face,” Pereth says. “Whether you’re a self-actualized person or not, we all hope that in our last hour there is a humanity in us.” ✦

COMEDY, WITH CANCER “Pitch black” is, not surprisingly if you know his work, how theater provocateur Ernest Hemmings describes the humor of his new play, Cancer Dog. Premise: A woman with terminal cancer throws an “end of life” party rather than battle the disease. But no one shows up! What follows, we’re promised, is a “vodka-champagne-drenched meltdown.” Pitch black, indeed! But you can’t argue with the brightness of the talent onstage: Breon Jenay, Gail Romero, and Breanna Folger.

Nov. 2-13, $10-$20, Center for Science and Wonder, tstmrkt.com

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Gear

Cold Comfort Winter gear to warm your hike

Hiking

Sacred Site

It’s easier than ever to see the rock-art riches of Sloan Canyon — it takes more responsibility, too BY

REDHEAD SOFTSHELL GLOVES, $29.99 How are you supposed to grip your trekking poles with popsicle fingers?

Or swipe your GPS screen with fabric gloves? You’re not!

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PATAGONIA NANO-AIR JACKET, $249, W/HOODIE, $299 Cozy as an oldschool down jacket, but weighs about the same as a sandwich bag full of air.

One note: It’s not waterproof; you’ll need a separate slicker for precip’ prep. Desert Rock Sports, 8221 W Charleston Blvd.

Alan Gegax

petroglyphs are a site of conflict. Not an ancient battle, but a more recent clash — of philosophies. The art etched onto the rocky slopes of aptly named Petroglyph Canyon is a superlative treasure. With more than 300 separate panels and 1,700 individual designs, it’s the richest rock-art site in Nevada, and is an invaluable cultural and historical resource that must be protected. It’s also a place the public should visit and appreciate. Those two forces are stubbornly difficult to align, but that’s what the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) is tasked with.

In 2011, back when accessing Petroglyph Canyon required a cross-country hike or an off-road truck, I was privileged to tour the area with BLM ranger Brenda Warner, who gave a firsthand account of this dilemma. As we drove unimproved roads through the hard-to-reach conservation area, Warner talked about the need to bring greater access to this historic site. Public lands belong to everyone, and the petroglyphs are part of our shared history.

Unfortunately, not everyone who ventured to Petroglyph Canyon was conservation-minded. The site was having problems with vandalism. People were destroying these artifacts. Increased visitation would inevitably lead to increased damage.

Year by year, the city grew ever closer. Information

THE SLOAN CANYON

about the petroglyphs spread across the internet.

Keeping people out was becoming untenable.

On the day of my tour, Great Basin Institute was constructing an official trail to Petroglyph Canyon.

It was a first, hesitant step toward preparing Sloan Canyon for the inevitable arrival of tourists.

In the intervening years, The BLM has overseen the construction of a paved access road, a parking area, and a new trailhead for Petroglyph Canyon.

Finally, in the spring of 2016, the BLM opened its long-awaited visitor contact station, where guests learn about the natural and human history of the area. More importantly, guests learn ways to minimize their impact on the site, preserving it for future generations. Of utmost importance are the admonitions to remain on the trail and not to touch the petroglyphs. Contact with the oils on our skin will damage the art.

To see the petroglyphs for yourself, make your way to Bicentennial Parkway, just south of the Henderson Executive Airport. Turn south onto Via Firenze, then turn right onto Democracy Drive.

Last, turn left on Nawghaw Poa, to the parking area. Be sure to check in at the contact station before embarking on the four-mile intermediate hike. Along the way, be on the lookout for the bowl-shaped grinding stones that natives used to process foods. Don’t touch those, either.

Thanks to its protections, Sloan Canyon is still a wild place, in much the same condition it would have been in when natives occupied the area in millennia past. We are now the stewards of this sacred site.

It’s up to us to show it the respect and deference that will preserve it for millennia to come. ✦

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TRAVEL

SKIP THE ZOO

These lesser-known San Diego neighborhoods might offer just the respite you need BY

Greg Thilmont

E

arly November has brought a nip to the air, a sign of a busy holiday season on the way. And October was obviously a difficult month here in Las Vegas. Now might be a welcome time to get out of town for a few days of balmy weather and head-clearing. Just five

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hours down the road, San Diego is perfect.

Particularly because this itinerary might not be what you’re expecting — there’s no zoo, aquarium or tourist-packed beach among my suggestions. Those are all fine destinations, of course, but this gorgeous home of some 1.4 million people has some

lesser-known neighborhoods to be experienced, too.

Situated on a hilly, arroyo-carved swath of the Peninsular Mountains on the Pacific Ocean, San Diego has, to say the least, a rather organic and convoluted road and highway system. But it’s a near beeline from Vegas along Interstate 15 to the historic hotel that I’ve taken as a sort of headquarters on recent vacations: the Lafayette Hotel, Swim Club & Bungalows (lafayettehotelsd. com). Featuring a classic neo-colonial façade and a distinctive mid-century modern swishing logo, it’s a standout along El Cajon Boulevard, an arterial that intersects with I-15. Something of a hilltop retreat above downtown, the hotel dates from 1946, when it was a wayside along the road to beaches and Baja, California, from Hollywood and Phoenix. It had star power in those days, hosting luminaries like Bob Hope and Ava Gardner as frequent guests.

The Lafayette trades in the Old Hollywood

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SAN-TASTIC Top, the Lafayette’s iconic Weismuller Pool; left, the Lafayette’s eclectic lobby; right, Verbatim Books.

Opposite page: Beer and wild ambience at Craft & Commerce

aesthetic, with a comfortable but nostalgic sense of luxury. There’s even a baby grand piano for events. It’s sided by the in-house eatery, Hope 46, a gastropub that takes its moniker from the star of the Road to … movies. Downstairs, a formal ballroom features a beautiful Art Deco band shell.

(You’ll remember it from the “You’ve Lost That Lovin’ Feelin’” scene in Top Gun.) It’s a popular setting for weddings, quinceañeras, and other celebrations; if it’s not in use, ask at the front desk for a quick peek at the impressive architecture. Also attached to the hotel are two independent spots, the Red Fox Room and the Finest City Improv.

The Red Fox is an old-school steakhouse with a long-standing music series that attracts guest jazzbos and listeners alike to its lounge. As a truly vintage bonus, much of the steakhouse’s ornate décor, from paneling to a handsome fireplace mantle, dates back

to 16th- and 17th-century England; it was imported to the U.S. in the ’20s. The improv theater offers shows Thursday through Sunday, and has cabaret dinner and drinks service from Hope 46.

The jewel of the Lafayette is the shimmering Weismuller Pool. Designed by the famous Olympic gold medal-winner and cinematic Tarzan, Johnny Weismuller, it’s a 300,000-gallon, five-lane beauty surrounded by palm trees, deck chairs, and cabanas.

Suites and premier rooms look out upon the gleaming, 70-degree water. It’s a brilliant setting for breakfast (try the red-eye gravy made with ham and coffee).

Time to cross the street to the colorful, homey Pomegranate (pomegranatesd. com), a family-owned Russian-Georgian restaurant. I tried a few glasses of wines from the Caucasus; delectable ikiri (eggplant, tomatoes, herbs, onions, olive oil,

P O O L C O U R T E S Y O F T H E L A FAY E T T E H OT E L ; V E R B AT I M B O O K S A N D CRAFT & COMMERCE: GREG THILMONT

for Incoming Freshmen

D E S E R T C O M P A N I O N .V E G A S

and garlic); and delicate khachapuri (flaky phyllo-style dough filled with tomato slices and fresh cheese). A bit further east lies the resurgent North Park district, its Americana feel seeing a food-and-drink rebound after decades of urban decay. Caffè Calabria (caffecalabria.com) is a nice morning stop for a cappuccino and premade mini panini for munching later. Another coffee spot good for sitting down and perusing local magazines is Young Hickory (younghickory.com), filled with wooden tables and a Pacific Northwest vibe. A few blocks down the street, meander through the excellent Verbatim Books (verbatim-books.com), a bibliophile’s treat brimming with used tomes and antiquarian finds. Plenty of craft beer is on tap along 30th Street, especially the adventurous brews at Modern Times Flavordome (moderntimesbeer.com). Pop in for samples of Lomaland, a snappy Belgian-style gose, and Fruitlands, a tropical-tasting gose (kids are welcome on the patio if you’re visiting with junior adventurers).

To the west, down the hill from the Lafayette, wander through the quaint streets of Little Italy, a charming district adjacent to downtown. While it’s filling with condo towers, there are still old buildings to amble past, as well as an arching street sign adorned with mosaics of pizza makers, fishermen, and other livelihoods of the Italians who first settled on India Street. There’s plenty of pizza and pasta, from the contemporary continental cuisine of Sorrento Ristorante to the birthplace of local chain Filippi’s Pizza Grotto (realcheesepizza.com), which is usually packed with vacationers. Two of my favorite Little Italy places are a bit off the thematic path: Craft & Commerce and its tiki-themed speakeasy, False Idol (craft-commerce.com). Featuring a gourmet brew-pubby menu, Craft & Commerce’s bar is highlighted with a dramatic diorama backdrop of a lion and a warthog, sourced N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 7

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MARKET FORCES Liberty Public Market is a foodie’s paradise, with everything from butcher shops to ramen spots.

from a museum collection. The tiki side is adorned with top-notch kitsch and serves potent tropical drinks.

Two more of my favorite neighborhoods are something of mismatched twins. First is the lovely and very orderly Liberty Station (libertystation.com), in the westerly Point Loma part of town. A living reflection of San Diego’s immense and extensive military heritage, it’s a former naval training station that’s been retooled as a shopping, dining, and arts district. Its biggest draw for travelers is the Liberty Public Market, a foodie paradise with hallways of shops, from a butcher to purveyors of fresh edibles ranging from empanadas to ramen bowls — there’s even a spot specializing in saganaki, flambéed Greek cheese. As for beer, it’s also home to the castle-like Stone Brewing Co. Further west is Ocean Beach. It’s a funky, non-Euclidean counterpart to Liberty Station’s straight-lined Spanish colonial revival style. It has plenty of small-town appeal, with a slightly ramshackle hippie aura. Climb the stairs at OB Brewery (obbrewingco.com) for a view of the sand and waves rolling in; thumb through the collection at Cow Records for some surf rock; and chow on a cheeseburger at Hodad’s.

And between the two distinct but complementary neighborhoods, satisfy your craving for the fresh local catch at Mitch’s Seafood (mitchsseafood.com), where you can dine on clam chowder, shrimp cocktails, and more above a working harbor.

So, what about tacos? San Diego is indeed Tortilla Town, and my citywide taste testing hasn’t even scratched the surface. But I was urged by a few Las Vegas restaurateurs and chefs to try ¡Salud! (saludsd.com). Located in a former bank building in the vibrant Barrio Logan, a Mexican-American cultural enclave just south of downtown and Petco Park, home of the Padres. It’s a snug room abounding with eclectic Chicano art. And deliciousness. I tried a trio of tacos — roasted pork with mole negro, beer-battered catfish, and mesquite-grilled chicken. They were among the best tacos I’ve ever eaten.

The side of creamy Mexican street corn and housemade pineapple punch were fantastic, too.

That leaves the amazing Balboa Park (balboapark.org), a 1,200-acre swath of greenery above downtown. It’s studded with cultural attractions like the Museum of Man, with its unmissable Baroque tower and “Beerology” exhibit, which traces the ancient liquid’s sudsy history. Other institutions include the San Diego Air & Space Museum, the Museum of Photographic Arts, and the Centro Cultural de la Raza. For a bit of whimsy, stop by the Spreckels Organ Pavilion, the largest musical instrument of its kind in the world. There are frequent live performances. The only caveat in venturing to Balboa Park is time. Take it at a leisurely, multiday pace if possible. But even if you’re pressed for time, a quick drive through its curving roads as you head home is an unforgettable sendoff. ✦

L I B E RT Y P U B L I C M A R K E T: Z AC K B E N SO N

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‘I COULDN’T IMAGINE BEING HERE’ Filipino teachers brought over to ease the teacher shortage learn a lesson in culture shock — and embrace their new home BY

Ian Whitaker

H

iring for public schools during a teacher shortage is like a game of whack-a-mole. Just when officials manage to fill a position in one school, a teacher elsewhere retires, moves to another district, or burns out on the profession altogether. Teachers are an increasingly rare breed these days — and special educators, those who work with children with developmental and learning disabilities, are the rarest of all. Earlier this year, about a third of the Clark County School District’s approximately 800 vacant classroom positions were in special education.

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EDUCATIONAL EXCHANGE Teacher Thomas Ray-Matiaz brought his special education experience from the Philippines to America.

After an extensive outreach and marketing campaign failed to turn up enough applicants to fill the need, Michael Gentry, hired from the private sector two years ago to head CCSD’s recruitment efforts, did something the district hadn’t done for more than a decade. He assembled a small group of principals and district officials — people he thought were “good pickers” — and flew to Manila in April. It wasn’t his first time in the Philippine capital. A former corporate officer at high-caliber tech firm Amkor, Gentry spent a few years managing company affairs there, and, in a later job, recruiting card dealers in the city for a new casino opening on the Pacific island of Saipan.

The group rented a handful of rooms in the city’s famous Peninsula Hotel, in the heart of the bustling Makati financial district, where they cleared out furniture and set up impromptu interview and waiting rooms.

An agency supplied the hopefuls: about 300 fully credentialed special-education teachers looking to work in an American school. For three days, the group interviewed teachers from dawn to dusk. “It was nonstop, up bright and early,” Gentry says.

Teachers who were declared good fits were PHOTOGRAPHY

Sabin Orr

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sent into another room, in which a contract negotiator offered them a job and outlined the J1 cultural-exchange visa program by which they’d be able to come to the United States. By the end, they had made 100 offers, of which 81 — who all speak English and hold teaching degrees — cleared the final visa process before boarding a plane to America. ❉ ❉ ❉ ❉ ❉ MARIA ORONOS, A 27-year-old from Quezon City, was teaching at a Catholic school in Manila when her childhood friend, Ruby Tugano, told her that American school districts were hiring in the country. She and Tugano, also a special educator, contacted the agency, which sent them to the Peninsula Hotel. They interviewed and accepted an offer from CCSD the same day.

For them and most of the teachers, the decision was an easy one. Starting pay for teachers in the Philippines barely scrapes $5,000 per year, a minuscule amount compared even to a spending-averse state like Nevada, where the base teacher pay is about $40,000.

“If you were given this opportunity, of course you were going to take it,” says Tugano, who now works at Elise L. Wolff Elementary in Henderson.

After signing their contracts, Tugano and Oronos were rushed through the process of getting U.S. teaching licenses and visas. “It was a whirlwind process,” Tugano recalls.

It went so fast, in fact, that they started having doubts. “We were kinda thinking, ‘Is this real?’” Oronos says. “In the Philippines there are so many stories of fake hiring and scams. Because it was just so fast.” But, in July, their plane landed on U.S. soil.

A school district tweet introducing their arrival began with an exclamation, “Maligayang pagdating!” meaning “welcome” in Tagalog. An accompanying photo showed the teachers all huddled under the Las Vegas welcome sign on a clear blue day.

Mission accomplished for Gentry and his staff, perhaps — but the beginning of a long journey for the teachers themselves.

“I couldn’t imagine being here,” says Oronos, who now works at Variety School, a special-education facility near Downtown. Like many of the teachers hired by CCSD, neither she nor Tugano had ever been to America.

Baldwin Gutierrez, a native Filipino, wrote a book titled I Survive, a not-so-subtle hint as to the difficulties he faced making the move across the Pacific to teach at a school in Arizona. Landing at McCarran prior to being chauffeured to his new school near Bullhead City, he expected to be overwhelmed by the sights and sounds of a strange new city,

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WELCOME SIGNS Wolff Elementary Principal Linnea Westood, daughter of Filipino immigrants, tries to smooth the transition for new Filipino teachers.

but was instead met with a blast of hot, dry, August heat. He recounts asking: “Ma’am, bakit ganito kainit dito. Ansakit sa mata at sa balat!” (“Ma’am, why is it so hot here? It is painful to the skin and eyes!”) Her response likened the situation to being in front of a bonfire.

Oronos reports a similar experience, but quickly took a liking to the Strip. In the few months since she arrived, she’s visited some resorts, admired the city’s often gauche architecture, and sampled the buffets. “The city is so open and alive,” she says. “Everybody’s awake.” She’s also been exposed to that venerable Vegas institution, Wet n’ Wild, to which she got free tickets courtesy of the school district. “That’s another perk of being a teacher here,” she says.

Next to the searing heat and culture shock, homesickness also takes its toll. In 2005, the last time the district hired teachers from the Philippines, three out of the 49 educators brought over opted to go back.

“You’re feeling alone, being by yourself.

It’s emotional,” says Joseph Uy, principal of Ferron Elementary. Uy came to the United States from Quezon City when he was just 17.

He hired one of the Filipino teachers to work in his school. “You have to think now in English, and you have to talk in English. When I first came to the United States it was exhausting.”

“Our (American) culture is just more

Vegas isn’t the only city to turn its attention abroad. Facing teacher shortages in Sacramento, Los Angeles, and New York, officials have turned to the Philippines for years.

aggressive,” says Linnea Westwood, a daughter of Filipino immigrants and principal of Wolff Elementary, where two of the teachers, including Tugano, were placed. “Things happen a lot faster.”

Oronos talks to her parents almost every day via webcam, toughing it out despite the 15-hour time difference. Even though she’s only been here for a few months, she still misses home, especially during special occasions like her parents’ anniversary. Her 27th birthday was in September.

“It was my first birthday where I wasn’t with my family,” she said. “They still had a party; I was invited through video. Thank God Facebook was invented.” ❉ ❉ ❉ ❉ ❉ IT’S NOT ALL frying-pan-into-the-fire stuff, however. The Philippines, despite the differ-

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ences embodied by its monsoon climate and native island culture, is heavily Christian, and much of the nation’s infrastructure, from its military to its republican-style government, is the direct result of influence

by American colonizers. The country’s English-language-based public-school system was centrally planned by the U.S. Army, and in an ironic twist of history, hundreds of American teachers were shipped over at the dawn of the 20th century to deal with a teacher shortage brought on by families rushing to enroll their children.

This influence could be problematic or mutually beneficial depending on your politics, but there can be no doubt of the ties that bind the two nations. Filipinos trust the United States on average more than any other country, according to polls, and the country’s diaspora to American soil is approaching 4 million people, more populous than anywhere else in the world, and the third-largest Asian population stateside.

Upwards of 100,000 Filipinos live in Clark County, making them by far the largest Asian nationality in Nevada. The influence of the local expatriate community is ever-present, boasting a long list of Filipino-owned travel agencies, caterers, salons, and restaurants.

Seafood City, a popular Filipino market near UNLV, is even an occasional spot for local politicians trying to gain the good graces of the community.

And that community, according to Gentry, was key to making the move comfortable for the teachers.

Within hours of arriving, they were inundated with gift bags, food, and water, and driven to specially appointed corporate apartments. Later, community members threw welcome events.

But not all were impressed. A recurring theme in the public reaction to the news was apprehension. “300 million+ people in America, and we had to hire 70 teachers from the Philippines?” one person wrote on Facebook in response to a FOX 5 story covering one of the community events.

It was a reaction that didn’t go unnoticed by the teachers. “They were nervous,” Westwood says. “They did see the initial reaction, and it was not always positive.”

The teachers themselves call it a win-win.

America benefits from having qualified teachers in classrooms that otherwise would be staffed by long-term substitutes, and the teachers have a chance to grow their skills while learning from a new culture.

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EDUCATION with five years experience working with special needs kids in the Philippines. “I’m learning here. It’s great here.” ❉ ❉ ❉ ❉ ❉

to the teachers’ arrival exposes something deeper. In the dog-eat-dog world of teacher recruiting, a common trope is the public’s casual ignorance of the true, horrible scale of America’s teacher shortage. People simply cannot fathom that a country with a public school on almost every block and a vibrant history of public education can’t find enough workers to staff the system.

On its face it isn’t an entirely unreasonable assumption. One glance at the unemployment rate — around 5 percent in Las Vegas, higher if you count part-time and underemployed workers — might convince some locals that the solution to the problem is hiding in plain sight. But the numbers warrant a deeper look.

Nationally, enrollment in teacher preparation programs has sunk 35 percent since 2009. A report by the Learning Policy Institute found that classrooms in the United States were short around 60,000 teachers in 2015, and are on track to be short 100,000 teachers by next year. In other words, the teachers simply aren’t there.

CCSD’s experience with this problem has been particularly acute. As recently as 2015, district classrooms were short nearly 1,000 full-time teachers. But while recruiters have been able to take a chunk out of that number through hiring long-term substitutes, special educators are the exception. According to Gentry, they tend to leave the classroom at twice the rate as other educators.

And Vegas isn’t the only city to turn its attention abroad. Facing similar shortages in places like Sacramento, Los Angeles, and New York, officials have turned to the Philippines for years.

“School districts are going all over the world,” Gentry says. “Most that have will tell you the place where they’ve had the greatest success is the Philippines.”

Whether or not it proves to be a long-term solution to the nation’s teacher shortage is another question entirely, and one that some experts say is a definitive “no.” However, faced with few alternatives and months of fruitless searching, it’s not much of a choice at all for recruitment officials in larger school districts.

“When you’ve exhausted every other resource, it’s the only thing you can do,” Gentry says. “Tell me where (the teachers) are. I’ll get in the car and drive there tomorrow.” ✦

THE ADVERSE REACTION

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• Shred old paperwork • Recycle glass, aluminum, plastic, cardboard • Bring your old computers, cell phones, appliances and more • Donate clothes, jewelry, housewares, home decor, etc.

PILL TAKE BACK. Turn in your unused or expired medications for safe confidential disposal and destruction. We will even take the prescription bottle.

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Courage Amid Chaos

IN THE VIOLENCE AND TERROR OF THE ROUTE 91 CONCERT SHOOTING, THESE LAS VEGANS SAVED LIVES, GAVE COMFORT, AND DEFINED THE SPIRIT OF SELFLESS SERVICE Portraits by

ANTHONY MAIR

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Bob Stout

C L A R K C O U N T Y F IR E F IGHTER

‘We didn’t know if he was going to make it’

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hen paramedic unit Rescue 11 pulled up to the entrance of the Route 91 festival, firefighter Bob Stout didn’t have to go far — the victims were coming to him. As soon as he got out of the truck, a woman who’d been shot in the leg approached.

He treated her and called for an ambulance. By the time it arrived, four more gunshot victims had arrived in people’s cars — one shot in the abdomen, two in the chest, and one in the head. Stout estimates he treated seven people before jumping into an American Medical Response ambulance with a seriously injured couple. The wife had been shot in the face, but could respond to questions and was in less danger than her husband, who’d been shot in the liver.

The pair required more assistance than AMR’s lone EMT could provide, so Stout helped treat them on the way to Sunrise Hospital.

“Mostly, we just talked to them,” he says. “‘We’re getting there as fast as we can. We’re getting the IVs in. We’re getting all the fluid in you we can.’ Things like that.”

After pulling up to complete chaos at Sunrise, and waiting 20 minutes for the husband to be stabilized so they could get the ambulance gurney back, Stout returned with the AMR crew to the shooting scene. It was after 11 p.m., and most of the victims had been transported to hospitals. Stout joined Metro police in searching for survivors among the bodies that remained.

“We went through all the booths, the concession stands, we looked under the bleachers, the stage, inside port-a-potties,” he says. “We followed blood trails out into the parking lot and down streets. … We found no one alive.”

Like all veteran firefighters, Stout has witnessed his share of horror over the years.

Still, he says, nothing in his past comes close to the surreal scene of October 1 — the wind blowing trash around, the smoke machine and stage lights still churning out special effects.

Above all, the ride with the couple in the ambulance keeps coming back to haunt him.

“We didn’t know if he was going to make it,” Stout says. “He was a medical professional, so he knew he was in trouble. The conversation between them was pretty rough.” The couple is expected to recover.

Stout is confident that he’ll recover, too, with time, and with the support of his department and family. He has to, he says, because taking care of others is the best part of the job. And to do that, he has to take care of himself. Heidi Kyser

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Paloma Solamente PASS ERBY

‘I was where God wanted me to be’

P Mendy Harlig ME T R O C H A P L A IN

‘Just our presence is comforting for them’

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endy Harlig — or “Rabbi Mendy” as the members of Chabad of Green Valley call him — was in the midst of his first good night’s sleep in months, he says, when the call came from the Las Vegas Metropolitan Police Department. He’s part of a network of imams, priests, and other faith leaders who provide spiritual support to police during and after traumatic incidents. Started in 2005, the network now includes enough clergy to have at least two assigned to each Metro substation. That’s where Harlig went first on October 1, his substation at the Convention Center Area Command.

“The reason why the chaplaincy was so vital (that night) was, usually, when something like this happens, the officers have a debriefing afterward, but since there was so much going on, there was no time for debriefing.” In other words, debriefing had to be done on the fly.

From the substation, Harlig went to the scene of the shooting, then to Metro headquarters, Mandalay Bay, and Sunrise Hospital. He rotated among these sites for nearly 48 hours straight, offering moral support to everyone from doctors and police officers to MGM executives and secretaries — giving hugs, asking what they needed, thanking them for what they’re doing, but mainly just being there, since, as he puts it, a faith leader’s presence alone can be reassuring.

But he had some tough conversations, too, like the one with a police officer whose car was targeted by the shooter. “The shooter stopped shooting at the people, and started shooting at the police cars. So, in that way, (the officer) was able to draw fire away from the crowd.

Afterward, he noticed how many bullets there were around his car. He hadn’t even realized how much fire he was receiving at the time, because he was so focused on the members of the public that he was trying to protect.”

The most anguished officers Harlig encountered were those who’d gone to the concert for a fun evening out with friends whom they saw get shot and, in some cases, die. These officers immediately switched into law enforcer mode, denying them the chance to process what had happened to them as civilians.

Harlig finds solace in his Chabad. In this form of Judaism, a husband and wife build each synagogue from scratch, personally recruiting new members. Harlig says that his religion has a prescription for work-life balance built in: daily prayer, self-study, time with family, time in community, and time away from the world’s distractions (Shabbat).

“One thing they say about staying mentally healthy is you have to have balance in your life,” he says. “Judaism gives me that balance.” Heidi Kyser

aloma Solamente wasn’t at the Route 91 Harvest Festival on the night of October 1. She was shuttling tourists around on the south Strip, picking up extra money as a Lyft driver. That’s when she heard the gunshots.

She didn’t know exactly what was going on, but she saw people fleeing in a panic.

She rushed to nearby Hooters, packed her car full of people, and drove them to safety. When she returned to the area, a man stumbled in front of her vehicle. His wife told her in Spanish that he’d been shot in the chest, and they tailed ambulances to Sunrise Hospital, running red lights along the way.

Afterward, Solamente opened Facebook Live. She had never used it before, but knew she needed to get the word out to as many people as possible to stay away from the Strip. It was 10:48 p.m., less than an hour after the mass shooting began.

“I just dropped, at Sunrise Hospital, a guy that got shot,” Solamente told her Facebook friends, her shock turning into tears. “Him and his family, they just jumped in front of my vehicle as I was driving.

“Please stay away from Mandalay Bay,” she continued, “stay away from Hooters, stay away from all of that area. Let the cops and the ambulances go through. We

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Dr. Deborah Kuhls UM C TRAUM A SURGEON

‘I think focusing on doing good for the patient allows us to maintain our composure’

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don’t know what is going on ... Please send your prayers to all of these people.”

Paloma returned home that night, unable to sleep. She was worried about the man she had just dropped off. She knew his name was William and his wife was Kimberly, but that was it. They had her contact information, but she didn’t have theirs. She hadn’t asked, out of respect for their privacy. Over the next couple of days, Paloma says she experienced a roller coaster of emotions, from anger to sadness to hopelessness. The first night she went out, the sound of a helicopter reminded her of gunshots, and ended her night. She had to tell her landscaper to stop coming — the noise was too stressful.

And then the call came. William was going to live.

The three reunited a few days later, and instantly had the rapport of longtime friends. They’re planning to get their families together, and even get matching tattoos. William calls Paloma his guardian angel, but she refuses the praise.

“I was just in the right place at the right time,” she says. “I was where God wanted me to be.” Kristy Totten

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here are images that will stay with Dr. Deborah Kuhls for a long time. The lethal gunshot wound to the head. The woman who kept her friend alive by keeping her fingers in the bleeding bullet wound all the way to the hospital. And the moment when Dr. Kuhls had to cut open an airway for an obese patient who couldn’t be intubated. “Those are technically difficult.

You’re not in the operating room, and it’s all feel,” she says.

As the seconds ticked down, she managed to get a tube in and save the patient’s life.

On October 1, Dr. Kuhls had already put in a full day at the hospital. But when the first call came in shortly after 10 p.m., as the senior trauma surgeon on staff at UMC, she swung into action. She called in reinforcements and started directing traffic. Other physicians on the floor that night describe the scene as “controlled chaos,” with more people filling the building than they’d ever seen before, and Dr. Kuhls leading the team. This, she says, is when your training kicks in. “There are certain things that we do over and over again, like our method for quickly assessing an injured patient.”

With the exception of one military surgeon, none of the surgeons at UMC had experienced a mass casualty of this intensity. Traumatic injuries, yes. But the sheer number of casualties pouring in — over 100 gunshot victims — was unprecedented. By 8 the next morning, Dr. Kuhls had been working for 25 hours straight. “I think focusing on doing good for the patient allows us to maintain our composure, frankly, and continue to help people.”

It was only later that the news trickled in and they learned more about what happened on the Strip that night. Her eyes redden as she talks about it. “These people hadn’t done anything to anybody. They were just here to relax, go to a concert.”

On top of those losses were the victims who bled to death before they got to the hospital. So, along with Dr. Douglas Fraser, vice chief of trauma at UMC, and other surgeons in the department, she’s promoting a nationwide initiative, Stop the Bleed (bleedingcontrol.org), to teach civilians how to stop uncontrolled bleeding — think CPR training for bullet wounds.

It reflects her commitment to saving lives beyond the emergency room. “I have a tremendous appetite to be trained well,” she says, “and to train others in disaster management.” Sonja Swanson D E S E R T C O M P A N I O N .V E G A S

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Dan Ficalora T R AU MA C O U N S E L O R

‘It’s going to be a slow burn here’

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t took a while — from the first news reports, to the YouTube videos, to phone calls from friends who are dispatchers and hospital workers — for the gravity of the Route 91 concert shooting to become clear to Dan Ficalora, a Bridge Counseling Associates therapist who specializes in trauma.

When it did: “I heard my supervisor’s voice in my head saying, ‘OK, if you can get to someone within the first 48 hours and debrief trauma, the likelihood of their PTSD symptoms coming up goes down dramatically.’ So, I went, OK, this first week is going to be critical.

If we can mobilize as many (counselors) as possible, and get (people affected by the shooting) talking and processing, we can help them.”

Bridge opened its doors at 7 a.m. Monday, October 2, for free services to anyone affected by the shooting, and stayed open late that first week. It helped to organize teams of employees and industry partners to send to sites where they’d been needed.

By noon Monday, the calls for help started coming in. Dan was among the first deployed that day. Since then, he says, he’s talked to dozens of first responders.

“Their being both heroes and victims at the same time is an incredible dichotomy to hear,” he says. “Sometimes they’re crying, taking a moment, taking a breath, and then saying, ‘Okay, I’ve got my 12hour shift I’ve gotta go do. Thank you for talking to me.’”

One conversation with a police officer started out casually. Then Ficalora asked if he’d been at the shooting. Ficalora recalls what the officer said: “‘Yeah …

I’m ex-military. I’ve done five tours in Afghanistan and Iraq. What I saw (October 1) was on par with, if not worse than, anything I ever saw in a war zone.’” That was the first evening, Ficalora says, and it clued him in on the intensity of what was happening.

He’s also been called to corporate sites to provide counseling for Strip employees — two to three shifts a day, a couple hours per shift, a steady trickle of people needing to talk. The most common thing he’s heard in those sessions is, “I don’t feel safe.”

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“It’s going to be a slow burn here,” he says, as people process what happened. Over time, people will notice anxiety, difficulty concentrating, hypervigilance — issues that need to be addressed with professional help.

In some ways, Ficalora has trained his whole life for this moment. His grandmother was “an old-school, lay-on-thecouch psychoanalyst,” and he always knew he wanted to work in a job where he could help people. During his 2010-2015 clinical psychology internship at a Medicaid-funded clinic Downtown, he began specializing in trauma.

“It was during the recession, so a lot of people were unemployed, desperate, depressed,” he says. “That population, in particular, was traumatized by the recession, by a family history of poverty, and domestic or family abuse.”

Although the current situation is different, he says, the same tools apply. He’s glad to be able to help, but says he wishes he could connect to more people.

“The stigma of mental health is what it is, right?” he says. “I wish more people realized how much just talking to someone could help them down the road.” Heidi Kyser

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Ashley Juste NURSE PRAC T I T I O N E R

‘I have to go help’

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n the night of October 1, Ashley Juste was watching the TV news in shock, nausea and disbelief. She texted an old friend at Sunrise Hospital, saying she hoped everything was okay — surely Sunrise’s emergency room was dealing with casualties. Her friend texted back: “There’s blood and bodies everywhere.” Never mind that Juste no longer worked there. Her first thought: “I have to go help.”

Ten months ago, Juste had left her supervisor position at Sunrise Hospital to join a private clinical practice. On October 1, that text from a friend pressed Juste back into service as a trauma nurse.

Even with her friend’s warning, Juste wasn’t prepared for what she saw when she arrived: in the corner of the employee parking lot, 20 gurneys, draped in white sheets. Twenty bodies.

“I was in shock,” Juste says. “I just thought, ‘If this is what’s out here, I can’t imagine what’s going on inside.’” It was horrific. “I have never seen so many people scared, injured, so much blood. It’s something out of a horror movie, or a war movie.” Doctors and nurses put on booties to keep from slipping on the blood.

Cleanup crew members weaved in between patients and medical staff, mopping up as much as they could.

Juste got to work. Here, dressing a man’s gunshot wound to his forearm, dragging over a hamper to help him support his shattered limb. There, checking on a woman whose wounded right leg was tied to a surgical light to keep it elevated. Down the hall, setting up an IV for a man shot in the upper arm. In a nightmare scenario, protocol and discipline helped Sunrise treat over 200 patients that night. They even got help from some of the victims themselves, who pointed doctors and nurses to other injured concertgoers in need of more immediate care.

Juste is proud of her role and of the Sunrise staff, but regrets not being able to do more. “On a usual day when somebody codes … we run resuscitation for sometimes up to two hours trying to get people back. That’s one of the things we’re struggling with now,” she says.

“We didn’t have that time or that opportunity for some of these people.” Carrie Kaufman

Michael Glockner COM M UNI TY AM BULANCE

‘Every square inch of that tent, we used’

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he medical tent at a music festival is usually a sleepy place, providing shade and water to dehydrated concertgoers, or BandAids for skinned knees. When the rattle of gunfire tore through the night of October 1, the tent at the Route 91 Harvest Festival became both a sanctuary and a nightmare. Some concertgoers ran to the tent. Some crawled. Others were carried. Michael Glockner, special events lead for Community Ambulance, was on duty that night.

“We were just getting overwhelmed,” he recalls. “If they could sit, we put them in chairs. The criticals, we put on cots. But toward the end of it, we just had people laying on the ground. Every square inch of that tent, we used.”

Glockner and his team mustered the resources they had — belts, torn sheets and even stethoscopes became tourniquets. They sealed gunshot wounds with plastic. They dashed out to ambulances for IV bags and airway supplies. But there were other resources that Glockner and crew tapped into as well: Amid the chaos, their training, protocol, and procedure reigned. They weren’t just coping with dozens of victims, N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 7

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COURAGE AMID CHAOS

grievous injuries. They were also dealing with hysteria — victims crying for help, attendees who’d carried loved ones into the tent, screaming for aid. Desperate hands grabbing from every direction. It required, at times, a grim calculus and terrible honesty. “That was the hardest part, when you have to tell someone that you can’t help them anymore,” Glockner says.

Fortunately, his team had unexpected help. “We had people from all over the world, all over the country, who were medics, who were nurses, who came in and said, ‘What can I do to help?’ What our crew did, what our off-duty crew did, and what the public did, will always be with me. I’m so grateful and so impressed with the humanity.”

It wasn’t until early Monday morning that Glockner finally went home to his fiancée. At the front door, he stripped off his bloody clothes and put them in a trash bag.

“She hugged me, and she said, ‘I’ve got the shower going,’ and I walked in, and I just washed the night off, essentially. She made me a cup of tea, and then we just kind of stared at each other. We didn’t really sleep.” Andrew Kiraly and Carrie Kaufman

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Nicholas Campbell and Olivia Vizzi CONCERTGOERS

‘If I got hurt, it would be better than her’

P

erhaps a child born on September 11, 2001, is destined to be a hero. That seems to be the case with 16-year-old Nicholas Campbell.

Campbell’s girlfriend, Olivia Vizzi, wasn’t really into country music when the two attended last year’s Route 91 Harvest Festival, but it was her boyfriend’s 15th birthday then, and she gave him tickets as a gift. The two had an incredible time and, like Campbell, she became a big fan.

So, this year, on the Friday of the concert, she surprised the Coronado High School sophomore and school basketball team member with tickets. They spent the weekend dancing and laughing and making new friends. They were only two feet from the stage when Jason Aldean began performing. Like everyone else, Campbell initially thought the gunfire was firecrackers.

Then Aldean ran from the stage, and pandemonium set in.

“People in the back were clearing out. People in the middle were clearing out, but we had to wait awhile,” Campbell recalls.

“There was nowhere to go, but get down and wait.”

Trapped, the young man dropped his body over Vizzi’s. “If I got hurt, it would be better than her,” he says. “It was kinda like, hey, if my girlfriend gets shot, she’s gonna freak out.”

In fact, Vizzi was already panicking, and Campbell thought the weight and shield of his body might calm her as well as protect her. It was during the second round of shots that the five-foot-nine basketball player was hit in the shoulder. The bullet penetrated his lung and broke two ribs.

During another break in fire, the two tried to run, ducking beneath the stage before they moved to a metal gate. Campbell told Vizzi to hop the gate. What about him? His lung collapsing, he couldn’t make it over. Instead, Campbell would be forced to play possum among the dead and dying for the duration of the shooting.

When the shots finally stopped, he stood to walk, but he was having trouble breathing and wouldn’t get far. That’s when another hero came along. A man, who told Campbell he was a Marine, made a tourniquet of Campbell’s drawstring backpack, lifted his 135-pound frame across his shoulders, and carried him to a car that would deliver him to UMC, where he was immediately fitted with a chest tube. “That hurt more than getting shot,” Campbell says of the procedure.

Asked if he would again play human shield to protect Vizzi, Campbell says — without an ounce of bravado — “Of course.

I mean, I’ll be back (out of the hospital) in four to six weeks.”

He hopes to be well enough to play at least a few games in the coming season. Meanwhile, Vizzi’s Snapchat story of the morning after said it all: “Thank you to my boyfriend for saving my life. He’s my hero.” Chantal Corcoran

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All We Have

SERIOUS GUN LAW REFORM IS UNLIKELY IN THE WAKE OF THE ROUTE 91 SHOOTING. WHAT ELSE CAN WE DO? THERE ARE ONLY IMPERFECT CHOICES

BY STEVE SEBELIUS

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T

he breaking wave of emotion is by now too sadly familiar across America in the wake of a mass murder: fear, grief, anger, the search for meaning, the vows of reform. But here we are again.

It’s been a month since Stephen Paddock methodically took aim from the 32nd floor of Mandalay Bay, a tactically perfect perch for a predator bent on taking lives. Since then, we’ve felt the full range of emotions, from the ridiculous to the sublime.

The ubiquitous if derivative “Vegas Strong” has become our shorthand, a way of showing defiance, resilience, connectedness in the wake of the massacre, the modern American version of “Keep Calm and Carry On” that Londoners adopted before German bombs began falling on the city a lifetime ago. For Las Vegas, it’s a desperate shibboleth meant to ward off the fear and the horror, with no more real power to stop the bullets or the memories than the original had to ward off German planes.

But it’s also all we have. The alternative is too terrible to contemplate: We are, all of us, a madman’s whim away from death at any given moment, and there’s not a thing we can do about it.

No matter how many prayers we pray, thoughts we hold, blood drives we line up for, doves we release, dollars we donate, or gardens we plant, the stark reality is, nothing has changed since that terrible day a month ago — and nothing is likely to change that will make future shootings impossible.

That reality, harsh as vinegar in a wine glass, doesn’t lend itself to a hashtag, a T-shirt or an inspiring slogan. But it’s nonetheless true.

As always in the wake of gun violence, there are calls for greater controls, especially on weapons designed for the battlefield. And that makes sense: High-powered rifles with magazines containing 30 or more rounds enable a single person to kill many people quickly, which is precisely what they were designed to do. Congress — which has made the ownership of fully automatic weapons subject to severe restrictions among civilians —responded to the Las Vegas shooting with a plan to ban “bump stocks,” which allow semi-automatic rifles of the kind Paddock used to be fired more rapidly, albeit at the cost of accuracy.

This is, to put it mildly, a tinkering at the extreme margins.

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Then again, that’s really all we can do, given the state of our politics and the state of our laws. The U.S. Supreme Court has held that the right to bear arms in the Second Amendment is a personal right. The court has also held that the amendment covers weapons of common military use, even if the concept of a fully-automatic battle rifle was as alien to the authors of the Second Amendment as a space shuttle. And the court has said the “militia” as defined in the Second Amendment consists of all able-bodied people capable of acting in concert for the common defense.

Former Justice John Paul Stevens, one of the court’s liberals, argues that the Second Amendment should be read to guarantee an individual’s right to bear arms while actually serving in the militia. But that language doesn’t appear in the existing text, and the court’s jurisprudence doesn’t embrace that idea, as sensible as it may be.

Besides, even if Congress were to muster the will to ban, say, all semi-automatic and fully-automatic rifles (and if that wasn’t politically possible after the murder of 20 children at the Sandy Hook Elementary School in 2012, one struggles to imagine the circumstances when it would be), there are millions of these weapons already in circulation. How would they be collected? There are more than 300 million guns of all kinds in America, from handguns to rifles to shotguns, and in 2015, there were just 2,618 special agents of the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms. Enthusiasts who have collected these weapons (and who fear the day the government prohibits them as the dawn of ultimate tyranny) are unlikely to simply hand them over.

As much as we’d like to think that the sheer weight of the deadliest mass shooting in modern American history must inevitably this time lead to change, very little is likely to happen.

While the Second Amendment isn’t holy scripture handed down from on high, and while it could be changed if Americans collectively decided it should be done, the chances of that don’t appear likely. As a result, gun laws will likely remain as they are, and weapons will likely remain available, for purposes benign and malevolent alike.

That doesn’t mean there aren’t things that can be done. For example, there are small, admittedly inadequate, steps that could be taken to make it slightly more difficult for criminals or people who’ve been diagnosed with mental disorders from getting a firearm.

In Nevada, voters passed an initiative that would have extended the background checks conducted by licensed dealers in stores and at gun shows now to all sales, including those involving private parties. The measure passed very narrowly — a sign of how even moderate, sensible reforms are controversial — but it’s been hamstrung by a technicality. (The measure’s authors conscripted the FBI to conduct the checks instead of the state, in order to avoid attaching a fee that could have killed the initiative.

But since the state already conducts comprehensive state-federal

checks, the FBI declined to conduct separate checks exclusively for private gun purchases.) In the wake of the Oct. 1 shooting, Gov. Brian Sandoval and others have asked if it could somehow be implemented, and a lawsuit has been filed toward that end.

It’s a small step, but one that there’s no good reason to oppose. (It must be said, however, that a background check would not have stopped Paddock from acquiring a single weapon; his arsenal was purchased legally over time.)

Another issue: The fitness of our mental health care system, which will be pressed into service to care for the people who witnessed or responded to the shooting. Their pain at seeing the horrific aftermath of such violence cannot be left out of the conversation as the city learns to live with the wounds inflicted not just on the bodies of its residents and guests, but its psyche. This is to say nothing of the mental health needs of the family and loved ones of shooting victims, who will also bear emotional pains that may manifest in countless ways.

And a more robust mental health system might also allow us to identify people suffering from mental problems who are also inclined to violence, and stop it before it occurs.

Also, making high-rise buildings and resorts more secure, from heightened profiling of hotel guests to retrofitting windows with security glass that’s harder to break, could also prove effective in stopping future Oct. 1-style attacks. Steve Wynn, for example, told Fox News Sunday’s Chris Wallace that any “Do Not Disturb” sign left on a door for more than 12 hours at his property triggers a deeper investigation, both for the safety of the guest and others.

Inevitably, this will work a change in the Las Vegas we’ve known in the past, the place where guests come for freedom, escape and where what happens here stays here. Las Vegas joining the list of cities that have suffered mass casualty attacks didn’t just put another name on the list; rather, it forever altered how the world views the city where concerns about terrorism and mass violence were far from mind. That, too, will be something the city’s leaders and marketers will have to grapple with as Las Vegas moves forward into this new reality.

But those things surely won’t stop a determined killer — and we shouldn’t delude ourselves into thinking otherwise. Now isn’t the time for magical thinking that this is the moment that we put an end to violence or the madness and hatred that inspire it. Hope is not a strategy, and if prayers and marches to quell violence were effective, we’d have had peace long ago.

Now is the time for being honest about what we are willing to do, and about what we’re not willing to do. If things remain as they are — and it looks as if that’s exactly what’s going to happen — then violence as a regular occurrence in American life is here to stay. It’s only a question of when, where and how many people.

That’s a stark and harsh reality, but it is reality. And the sooner we come to grips with it, the sooner we can decide to take whatever meager steps we can to make mass violence incidents harder to accomplish. When perfect choices are impossible, we’re left with only the imperfect.

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In Excess, There is Hope

BY ANDREW KI RALY

1.

The idea was to drive the Strip from Sahara to the “Welcome to Las Vegas” sign and ponder the immensity of the Route 91 shooting in hopes of finding some sense, or insight, or cause for tentative optimism to be shared in this essay you’re reading right now.

But on the afternoon of October 5, a punishing construction bottleneck in the shadow of the Fontainebleau (yes, it’s still there, simultaneously gleaming and peeling, a startling portrait of glamour in decay) has brought southbound Strip traffic to a complete freeze, which is not helped by the fact that, additionally, about 40 percent of the drivers around me are also gawking at two young women improbably jouncing along the sidewalk in impossibly high and tight Daisy Duke short-shorts as though this past week didn’t exist.

Death and allure and mundane urban hassle; it’s an aggravating, silly, heartbreaking tableau on this raw afternoon. But — let’s do the good news first — it’s a provisional sign that we’ll be okay. Look at us, still honking, still leering: I’m happy to report the Strip has not lost its basic power to attract and antagonize us. (But, screw the literary conceit: I do snag the first U-turn available and take I-15 to Tropicana.)

2.

On the freeway: That thing you do where, at first, you look-but-don’t-look-but-can’t-help-but-look, just teasing your peripheral vision with it, testing yourself, like the way you can’t resist touching the edge of a very sharp knife or a razor because its sharpness just seems to dare you to touch it, but you have to apply just the right pressure so you can tap the sharp edge without cutting

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yourself, and you almost make a little game of it, until you’ve mastered the game to the point where you can look right at Mandalay Bay and bear how sharp and salient it is now. No longer a resort, never just a resort ever again, but a stubborn afterimage of a building that a madman weaponized one terrible historic night. It will take some time to get used to this new structure in our midst.

3.

I confess that on some astoundingly naive preconscious level, I thought Las Vegas was metaphysically immune to something like this.

For example, when we learned that five of the incurably unsmiling and joyless 9/11 hijackers had made several inconsequential visits to Las Vegas the summer before the terror attacks of September 11, 2001, I remember dimly thinking some species of, Well, yeah, why would they target us? I reasoned that our city’s bumptious, empty charisma and the fundamental gratuitousness of our very existence somehow put us safely below such grave notice. We’re the loping, harmless louche. What did we ever do to anybody?

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though in a stubborn affirmation of excess that suggested, again, some faint pulse of vital Vegas ethos beating beneath. If this is impoverished and desperate religious thinking that deserves to be laughed at, I’m okay with it.

(Excessive, too: A hoard of 23 guns in a luxury suite. Excessive, too: Six-hour waits at blood banks because the outpouring of support has been overwhelming.)

6.

At the memorial on Reno Avenue, amid those grieving and reflecting, you will inevitably see people taking selfies in front of the candles, flowers, and photos. In this context, the ritual posture of the selfie — phone high, chin up, hip cantered — will strike you as especially indecent and narcissistic. You will see people taking selfies in front of Mandalay Bay, too, like I did. Some tourists were even angling their phones to ensure the 32nd floor’s two jagged black deadeye windows were looming over their shoulder.

You might think of these people as grief-porn predators and remark to yourself about the Inappropriateness of Selfies at a Time and Place Like This. I did just that, sublimating grief and confusion into misdirected outrage, sending Scott Dickensheets a how-could-they?! text going off on Selfies at a Time and Place Like This. “Deathies? Griefies? Grelfies?” I wrote.

Scott put it in perspective for me: “For some, they’re evidence that we lead ‘interesting’ lives. For others, perhaps it’s a touchpoint between their small lives and some larger reality.”

He’s right. For now, we are that larger, documentary reality.

We’re otherwise used to being so unreal for visitors — used to being an exotic backdrop for a temporary, parallel life. I imagine that for many tourists, our clockless, radiant, myth-rich city is existing in time, in history for the first time.

7.

4.

Passing CityCenter may give you a longing ache as you remember the so-called Vdara death ray, how slapstick that was — projectile light emanating from the mirrored windows of a casino, aggressively overtanning guests at the pool. That was the worst of it, once upon a time, that cartoon analogue now on the other side of a vast gulf.

5.

If you want to visit the impromptu memorial that has blossomed on the median at Reno Avenue and Las Vegas Boulevard, it’s easiest to park at the Excalibur. Like pretty much everywhere else on the Strip these days, you’ll have to pay for parking, a minor-key indignity that will feel newly mocking and mercenary in the light of this tragedy.

Maybe it’s me — maybe my starvation for optimism was such that I would desperately chew at whatever was at hand — but something random happened that made me smile. In one of the restrooms at the Excalibur, the automatic paper-towel dispensers are on this setting that unfurls sections of paper towel at absurdly luxurious lengths — two, two-and-half, three feet of pristine white ribbon heedlessly pouring out as though in defiant celebration, as

A lot of people thought it was cheesy or lurid, but I really liked the “What happens here, stays here” ad campaign that began, wow, way back in 2002. It was more than a marketing slogan. It was an era when privacy and secrecy were our gold. The campaign turned them into magic commodities that allowed tourists to break rules and taboos they couldn’t break at home, to try out other selves, sample other identities. It was an era when temporary anonymity was a hall pass to a lab of harmless lifestyle experimentation.

It turns out that privacy could also be a tool for committing calculated, psychopathic mass murder; anonymity, an exploit for a madman to hack.

It’s strange to think that the “What happens here” era of Vegas as a palladium of secret sexy naughty permissive loaner lives was so … innocent.

That era is over. In the coming age of bag scans and background checks, what will we sell instead?

8.

I had heard reports that Mandalay Bay was eerily quiet and empty to a degree that suggested, ooh, some profound, incurable infection by the spirit of death itself. I’ll admit I had a gawker’s interest in this desolation, particularly since I’d grown up in and around casinos — skateboarding in their parking garages, dropping quarters in their arcades — and so to me they’ve always been sites of dependably infrastructural

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festivity. Open 24 hours and perpetually alight, they are to me sturdily, profligately real.

It was certainly subdued. It was not, however, incurably infected by the spirit of death itself.

9.

Conspiracy theory is just religion in different clothes. Both are a form of collaborative fantasy wrought through willful, specific, precise misunderstandings. Religion and conspiracy theory cynically hijack the otherwise lovely concept of uncertainty.

You will inevitably meet Route 91 truthers in real life or on social media. Treat them like you would someone trying to push a religious tract in your hand — as hopelessly deluded beyond reason, probably best ignored.

10.

Friends from elsewhere ask me: How did this happen? Aren’t Strip resorts outfitted with sophisticated security and surveillance systems?

Well, yes, but: Those eyes in the sky and security teams were watching the money the whole time, not the guests.

11.

It should feel weird and wrong to see an Elvis serenading a newlywed couple in front of the “Welcome to Las Vegas” sign, and also Korean girls doing choreographed leaps with selfie sticks, and also people at the memorial, stony and red-eyed in their private grief, and also Illinois carpenter Greg Zanis planting a white cross for each of the dead, and also local Gilbert Perez herding tourists for hammy photos, hustling for tips as though, again, the last week simply didn’t exist.

This was all happening at the “Welcome to Las Vegas” sign October 5, this swirl of giddiness and grief, but it didn’t feel weird or wrong. It felt, instead, matter-of-fact and sound — maybe because, as they say, life simply goes on, or because Las Vegas, so practiced at excess and extremes, can absorb the contradictions.

We do and also in everything: abundance amid scarcity, artifice as originality, hospitality alongside rootlessness and transience, dumb luck and programmed pleasure, too much of everything delivered with scientific efficiency.

A great pain has interrupted the great pleasure we offer. We will absorb this contradiction, too. I don’t want us to stop being the nation’s loping, harmless louche. But I like the new questions we are asking. Not, What did we ever do to anybody? Rather: What can we do for everybody? What can I do for you?

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Resources C A S H D O N AT I O N S LAS VEGAS VICTIMS’ FUND Set up by Clark County Commission Chair Steve Sisolak, this is the official GoFundMe campaign for Route 91 shooting victims. gofundme. com/dr2ks2-las-vegas-victims-fund N AT I O N A L C O M PA S S I O N F U N D 100 percent of the funds received through the National Compassion Fund Las Vegas will be distributed directly to victims. Donations to the Fund are held separately from general donations to the National Center for Victims of Crime. nationalcompassionfund.org

OT H E R D O N AT I O N S #HEARTS4VEGAS Send your card of grief, hope or love to the city. It will be shared in the city’s garden. Las Vegas City Hall. cityoflasvegas.link/hearts4vegas LY F T The rideshare company is offering two free rides, up to $40 each, to blood donation centers, hospitals, and relief centers. lyft.com/invite/vegashope C AT H O L I C C O M M U N I T Y C H A R I T I E S Accepting cash as well as blankets and other essentials, CCC reaches out to the community in need. catholiccharities.com U N I T E D B LO O D S E RV I C E S While the immediate response to the call for blood donations was overwhelming, there is continued need. Multiple locations, unitedbloodservices.org/lv

E M OT I O N A L S U P P O R T VEGAS STRONG RESILIENCY CENTER A resource and referral center for residents, visitors and responders affected by the Oct. 1 shooting. Agencies represented include Clark County Social Service, Nevada Victims of Crime Program, Nevada Division of Child and Family Services, Southern Nevada Adult Mental Health Services, and the LVMPD Victims Services Unit. 1524 Pinto Lane, clarkcountynv.gov/vegasstrong B R I D G E C O U N S E L I N G A S S O C I AT E S The center is offering trauma and grief therapy free to anyone impacted by the shooting, including friends and family members.

1640 W. Alta Drive, bridgecounseling.org U N LV S C H O O L O F M E D I C I N E Free professional crisis counseling is available to the public. Mojave Counseling Clinic, 702-253-0818

MEMORIALS

COMMUNITY HEALING GARDEN By the city, for the city, this garden and memorial wall in the heart of Downtown is a place to reflect and gather. 1015 S. Casino Center Blvd.

THE LAS VEGAS SIGN Thanks to artist Greg Zanis’s donation of 58 crosses, this memorial behind our iconic sign was set up by Nevada State Troopers and has become the gathering place for visitors to pay homage.

5200 Las Vegas Blvd. S.

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NOVEMBER 24TH – NOVEMBER 27 TH *Present receipt(s) dated November 24th through November 27th totaling $100 or more from any Town Square Las Vegas merchant at the Concierge Booth and receive one $20 TSLV Gift Card. One Gift Card per customer, per receipt, while supplies last from November 24th through November 27th.

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FOR THE FRIEND WHO HAS EVERYTHING Redwood Cultivation’s “Stacked Deck” is a cannabis package of five pre-rolls, with playing card emblems in homage to Las Vegas. $35, numerous Las Vegas dispensaries

Stuart Weitzman Swarovski Crystal monogram clips personalize your footwear with a bit of luxe. $398, Stuart Weitzman in the Forum Shops at Caesars

The Cocktail Courier Subscription Service delivers custom cocktail kits straight to your door. Price varies, cocktailcourier.com

West Elm’s faceted mercury candleholder casts a positive light. $8-$16, West Elm in Downtown Summerlin

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Crate & Barrel Anders Vintage cocktail shaker adds style to any drink. $44.95, Crate & Barrel in Downtown Summerlin

Rimowa Topas Sparkling Wine Case is a luxurious wine case with special inserts for accessories. $570, rimowa.com

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FOR THE LITTLES IN YOUR LIFE

The Nintendo Switch Console with Gray JoyCon brings the hottest games home. $299.99, target.com

The Lego Millennium Falcon features a detachable cockpit, rotating laser turrets and more. $149.99, Lego in the Fashion Show Mall

The L.O.L. Big Surprise Doll provides the ultimate unboxing moment with a mystery doll. $69.99, target.com

The Star Wars R2 D2 App-Enabled Droid is the interactive friend you’re looking for. $179.99, target.com

The Build-A-Bear Reindeer has a hint of glimmer and comes straight from the North Pole. $26-$28, BuildA-Bear in Downtown Summerlin

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8Greens Dietary Supplement packs a nutritional punch and tastes great, too. $14, Neiman Marcus in the Fashion Show Mall

S’well Water Bottles are insulated, durable and ecofriendly. $34.99, The Container Store in Town Square

FOR YOUR HEALTH NUT

The Burton Crystal Pullover Hoodie and Plasma Leggings showcase active lifestyles with style. $80/$65, burton.com

Serene House Supernova Electric Aromatherapy Diffuser fills your home with natural scents. $69.99, Nordstrom in the Fashion Show Mall Aroma Sense Shower Heads feature aromatherapy in vanilla, lavender, eucalyptus, and more. $69.99-$114.99, aromasenseusa.com

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FOR YOUR BOLD AND BEAUTIFUL

The Michael Boychuck Signature 24-Piece Professional Makeup Brush Collection is allvegan and ultra-soft. $495, michaelboychuck.com

The NARS Man Ray Holiday Collection Glass Tears Eyeshadow Palette makes a stylish statement. $49, NARS in the Forum Shops at Caesars

LUSH Sugar Plum Fairy Lip Tint contains oils and waxes to prevent chapped lips. $9.95, LUSH in Downtown Summerlin, the Fashion Show Mall and the Forum Shops at Caesars

The Bite Beauty Agave Kisses Deluxe Mini Set includes scrub, mask and balm for soft lips. $20, Sephora in Downtown Summerlin

The Art of Shaving Mach 3 Engraved Nickel Plated Shaving Set is handcrafted for efficiency and comfort. $585, theartofshaving.com

The Tory Burch Bel Azur Eau De Parfume Spray includes bergamot, neroli and peony, and earthy vetiver. $126, Tory Burch in the Forum Shops at Caesars

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The DJI Spark is a minidrone with intelligent flight control and a high-res camera. $499.99, store. dji.com

The Conway Electric EXTO Smart USB is the strongest, fastestcharging USB available on the market. $149, conwaygoods.com

FOR YOUR FAVORITE GEARHEAD

The Kano Build Your Own Computer teaches kids to code with art, music, apps and games. $96, kano.me

The Tory Burch Collins Hybrid Smartwatch looks analog, but has the ability to link to an iOS or Android smartphone. $295, Tory Burch in the Forum Shops at Caesars

Beats by Dre Studio3 Wireless Headphones feature Pure Adaptive Noise Canceling for immersive sound. $349.95, beatsbydre.com

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Seoul Little “Best Babes” Necklace is a cute new version of old-school friendship necklaces. $114 a set, Nordstrom in the Fashion Show Mall

FOR YOUR BFF

The Swarovski Remix Smiley Strand allows you to blend pieces from the Swarovski Remix Collection to create a bespoke look. $79, Swarovski in Miracle Mile Shops

The Star Pom Beanie adds a playful touch to any ensemble. $35, TOPSHOP in the Fashion Show Mall

Mulberry Darley Wallet in gold has perfect stitching and a clean silhouette. $395, Mulberry in the Forum Shops at Caesars

Henri Bendel Blake Cashmere Slippers are made with silk and suede. $126, Henri Bendel in the Forum Shops at Caesars

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LUSH Charity Pot Body Lotion supports conservation, animal welfare, and human rights. $7.95-$27.95, LUSH in Downtown Summerlin, the Fashion Show Mall, and the Forum Shops at Caesars

With every purchase, OneGrid Candle will deliver a solar light to a person living without electricity. $28, onegridcandle.com

FOR YOUR FRIEND WHO WANTS TO SAVE THE WORLD Tiffany & Co.’s Save the Wild Elephant Brooch in 18K rose gold with a diamond supports the Elephant Crisis Fund. $67-$1,800, Tiffany & Co. in the Forum Shops at Caesars, Bellagio, and Crystals at CityCenter

The Nicole Miller Puppies Behind Bars dog bowl and phone case support Puppies Behind Bars, which trains prison inmates to raise service dogs. $40/$20, nicolemiller.com

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The Tory Burch Foundation Seed Box benefits Tory Burch Foundation, which empowers women entrepreneurs. Price varies, toryburch.com

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holiday spirited

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IF SHOPPING MAKES YOU SNIPPY, THEN DEF Y YOUR INNER GRINCH WITH THIS LIST OF FUN EVENTS

Compiled by Mélanie Hope

THROUGH NOV. 25

NOV. 4

Amphitheatre, cityofhenderson.com

Sunset Park, brewsbest.com

Autumn bursts into color at The Conservatory & Botanical Gardens. 24/7, free. Bellagio, bellagio.com

The Basic High School Marine Corps Junior ROTC will present colors and read the names to be added to the memorial wall. The Henderson Symphony Orchestra will provide a special musical tribute to veterans and the armed forces. 10A, free. Henderson

NOV. 4

NOV. 17

Enjoy live music, great food, and a festival of brews all while benefiting the New Vista organization.

12–9P, $30–$50, includes a beer mug and tasting guide.

Join in the summoning of winter when Santa arrives and lights the 45-foot Christmas tree. There will be real snow and photos with Santa inside his house. 7P, free. Town Square Park, mytownsquarelasvegas.com

Proud as a Peacock

NOV. 3–5

The Craft Festival

The grand finale after 35 years that you won’t want to miss features 200 independent artisans from seven Western states, plus food and fun. 10A–5P, $8; $7, seniors; $2 ages 11–17; 10 and under free; $5 parking. Cashman Center, stevepowers. com

Veterans Day Ceremony

Sunset Park’d Food Truck and Micro Brew Festival

Santa’s Arrival Parade

NOV. 17–DEC. 23

Snow in the Square

This 10-minute show enchants guests with falling snowflakes choreographed to classic holiday music. Mon–Sun 7P; Fri–Sun 8P, free.

Town Square, mytownsquarelasvegas.com

NOV. 10–JAN. 6

Glittering Lights Las Vegas Nevada’s largest

NOV. 3–5

Día de Muertos

NOV. 15–JAN. 6

This family-friendly event blends rich customs with exciting activities such as live theater and dance performances, altars, mariachis, face painting, sugar skull decorating, and an art exhibition.

4–9P, $8 adults; $5 children. Springs Preserve, springspreserve.org

Holiday Cactus Garden

More than 500,000 lights will be strung throughout the 3-acre garden. Stop inside for a chocolate sample.

5P–midnight, free.

Ethel M Chocolate Factory and Botanical Garden, 2 Cactus Garden Drive, Henderson, ethelm.com

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drive-through light show, this annual event showcases 1 million LEDs and more than 400 animated displays over 2.5 miles. Open every night at dusk. $20 per vehicle. Las Vegas Motor Speedway, glitteringlightslasvegas. com

skateboard, stroller, or on foot. Along the way, enjoy craft and food vendors. 10A–2P, free.

Along Paseo Verde Parkway, cityofhenderson.com

NOV. 18

LVIP Thanksgiving Extravaganza

NOV. 11

Best Dam Wine Walk — Glow Walk

Taste new wines and enter an exciting raffle as you enjoy the decorations in the historic downtown district. 21+ only. 4P, $25 individual, $45 couple. Historic Downtown Boulder City, visitbouldercity.com/ events

NOV. 15–JAN. 6

Mystic Falls Holiday Shows

Sam’s Town’s famous indoor laser light and water show transforms into a holiday dreamland filled with snow-covered trees, wreaths, poinsettias and more. 6P, 8P, and 10P, free. Sam’s Town Hotel & Gambling Hall, samstownlv.com

NOV. 11

Cheers to Chocolate

This fundraiser for Easter Seals features savory bites and scrumptious delights from several restaurants — plus wine and beer tasting. 7–10P, $35–$80. The District at Green Valley Ranch, easterseals.com/Nevada

Sun, free. St. Viator Parish, 2461 E. Flamingo Road, stviator.org

NOV. 17–19

Holiday Craft and Gift Festival

Check out the vintage Christmas train on display while enjoying holiday music, food, and shopping. Fri–Sat 10A–5P; Sun 10A–4P, $5.

South Point Hotel & Casino Event Center, lvcraftfestival.com

NOV. 11–12

NBT’s Classic Americana

A Veteran’s Day celebration of Americana with the Nevada Ballet Theatre featuring works

by George Balanchine and Paul Taylor. Sat 7:30P; Sun 2P, $29– $139. Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com

NOV. 17–18, 24–25; DEC. 1–2, 8–9, 15–24

Downtown Summerlin Holiday Parade

With floats, toy soldiers, snowflake princes and princesses, nutcrackers, dancers, drummers, and joyful music, this nondenominational parade is fun for the whole family. 6P, free. Park Center Drive, downtownsummerlin.com

NOV. 17–19

40th Annual Christmas Bazaar

The Women’s Guild hosts this popular indoor/ outdoor event full of fine arts, crafts, clothing, jewelry, antiques, and more.

8A–6P Fri–Sat; 8A–2P

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NOV. 17–19

Noah’s Flood

See the parable as you have never seen it before, through opera!

Joined by the Opera Las Vegas Children’s Choir (playing the animals), it is a one-of-a-kind performance. Multiple venues and times, free, operalasvegas.com

NOV. 18

Color Me Kind 5K

This paint run allows participants to be doused with a different color at each kilometer to create a kaleidoscope of fun. Ages 5+. 8A, $35.

Along Paseo Verde Parkway, cityofhenderson.com

NOV. 18

Henderson Stroll ’n’ Roll

The road will be closed to motorized traffic so that you may enjoy the street via bicycle, skates,

Feast on the musical comedy of the Las Vegas Improvisational Players as they make the show up on the spot based on your suggestions. 7P, $10; $5 kids, seniors, and military. Show Creators Studio, 4455 W. Sunset Road, lvimprov.com

NOV. 24 & DEC. 29

Last Friday — Just Add Water Street

The most decorated house in the valley welcomes visitors from far and wide. Park across the street to take in the 95,000+ lights synchro-

Ice-skate high above the Strip, replete with snow showers every 30 minutes. Sit by the fire pits while enjoying s’mores and warm cocktails. 17+ unless with parent. Sat 10A–9P; Sun 11A–6P, $20; $10 locals; $10 skate rental. The Cosmopolitan Las Vegas, cosmopolitanlasvegas.com

The internationally renowned Bellagio fountains present Christmas performances choreographed to holiday classics. Bellagio, bellagio.com

NOV. 30

Enter a winter wonderland with millions of sparkling lights, nightly entertainment, the Forest Express passenger train, Cheyenne’s Enchanted Carousel, Boris the Elf’s 3D Experience, and more.

Sun–Thu 5:30-9P; Fri–Sat 5:30–10P, $9–$20. Opportunity Village, 6300 W. Oakey Blvd., opportunity village.org

House on Robindale

The Rink at the Boulevard Pool

Fountains of Bellagio

NOV. 24–DEC. 31

NOV. 24–DEC. 31

NOV. 25–JAN. 2

NOV. 25–JAN. 2

A foodie, arts, music, and crafts celebration in the historic downtown area. 6–10P, free.

Henderson Events Plaza, 200 S. Water St., cityofhenderson.com

Opportunity Village’s Magical Forest

nized to Top 40 hits and holiday favorites. 6–10P nightly, free. 1420 E. Robindale Road, houseonrobindale.com

Luminaria and Las Posada

Kick off the holidays with this live reenactment of the Nativity accompanied by musical performances from local talent. 6P, free. Boulder City Recreation Center, 900 Arizona St., visitbouldercity.com

DEC. 1–31

Santa Train

This 40-minute ride along the Boulder Branch Line features a toy train exhibit, Santa’s sleigh for photos, North Pole mailbox, and depot gift store. 10A–3P Fri– Sun, $5–$10. Nevada State Railroad Museum, 601 Yucca St., Boulder City, nevadasouthern.com

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* D E S E R T C O M P A N I O N .V E G A S

DEC. 2

Great Santa Run

Your registration for this fundraiser includes a full Santa suit, a medal, and the opportunity to be a part of the largest gathering of Santas in the world! 8:30A, $30.

Opportunity Village, raceentry.com

DEC. 2–JAN 6

Holiday Glamour

The Conservatory and Botanical Garden will be totally transformed into a magical holiday paradise.

24/7, free. The Bellagio, bellagio.com

DEC. 2

Doodlebug Bazaar

Nearly 140 booths offer items like handmade jewelry, clothing, holiday

decorations, ornaments, and toys. 9A–4P; Santa parade at 4:30P, free.

Boulder City Recreation Center, 900 Arizona St., visitbouldercity.com

$30-$129. Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com

$30-$109. Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com

DEC. 2

DEC. 5

DEC. 2

Bring the kids to take pictures with Santa. 11A, free. The Gazebo at Bicentennial Park, 999 Colorado St., Boulder City, visitbouldercity.com

As the sun sets, downtown Boulder City will be glowing for the grand entrance of Santa Claus leading an old-fashioned holiday parade. 4:40P, free. Historic Nevada Way, Boulder City, visitbouldercity.com

Mayor Carolyn Goodman helps Santa light Las Vegas’ official 50-foot Christmas tree. 5P, free.

Stage 3 at Fremont Street Experience, vegasexperience.com

DEC. 2

DEC. 2

Santa’s Picture Party

Home for the Holidays — Las Vegas Philharmonic

The annual event features Peter and the Wolf, selections from The Nutcracker, a holiday sing-along, and more. 2p,

Santa’s Electric Night Parade

A Baroque Holiday — Handel’s Messiah

The Las Vegas Philharmonic performs Baroque-era holiday classics, including Part One of Handel’s Messiah.

7:30P; pre-concert conversation, 6:30P,

DECEMBER 8–9

WinterFest

This year’s theme is Dazzling Desert Holiday and includes a variety of family-friendly activities, including the official tree lighting ceremony with Santa, craft vendors, entertainment, and a spectacular evening light parade. Fri 6–9P; Sat 12–8P, free. Henderson Convention Center & Events Plaza, 200 S. Water St., Henderson, cityofhenderson.com

Christmas Tree Lighting Ceremony

DEC. 7–17

Stetson Country Christmas Downtown

DEC. 9

Best Dam Wine Walk — Ugly Sweater Contest

The 24th anniversary of this mega-shopping event brings many traditions as well as exciting changes. Live music and more. 10A–5P, free. Sands Expo, countrychristmas.vegas

Get your awful holiday sweater judged as you taste new wines and treats while enjoying the festive decorations all over town. 21+ only. 4P,

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Contact us today to find out how you can be a part of the dynamic growth of our diverse campus!

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$25 individual, $45 couple. Historic Downtown Boulder City, visitbouldercity. com/events

the 5K, 10K, or 1 mile kids’ run. Runners receive jingle bells for their shoes and other goodies. 8A, $25–$75.

Tivoli Village, arthritis. org/nevada

DEC. 9–10 & 16–23

Holiday Express

DEC. 9–24

Embrace the holiday magic with train rides to Santa’s magical village and festive activities, including photos with Santa, holiday crafts, cookie decorating, holiday stories, a nutcracker display, and more!

12–6P, ticket prices TBD. Springs Preserve, springspreserve.org

THE NUTCRACKER

Jingle Bell Run

Raise funds and awareness for the Arthritis Foundation in

DEC. 14–16

World Championship Dummy Roping for Kids

music and a meet-andgreet with St. Nick.

Ages 5+. 9A, $25–$40.

Pecos Legacy Park, cityofhenderson.com

DEC. 16

Celebrity City Chorus Songs of the Season

NBT’s annual presentation of Tchaikovsky’s holiday classic features more than 100 dancers.

Wed–Sat 7:30P; Sat–Sun 2P, $29–$179, Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com

Little ropers travel from coast to coast, and even other countries, to compete for the coveted title.

10:30A–2P, free for spectators. Sands Expo, worldchampionshipdummyroping.com

DEC. 11

DEC. 16

DEC. 16

Performing traditional Christmas songs and their own originals, the band delivers with their

Don your holiday apparel and jingle all the way through the fun run to holiday

Get out of the mall to enjoy an evening of holiday-themed comedy by the Las

A Nashville Tribute Band Christmas

DEC. 9

tight harmonies and creative arrangements.

7P, $17–$27. Cashman Center, bit.ly/2hSzYRS

Reindeer Dash 5K

NICE TO MEAT YOU

Enjoy CCC, an extraordinary group of women who celebrate barbershop music, as they perform beloved holiday songs.

7P, $11. Winchester Cultural Center, 3130 McLeod Drive, clarkcountynv.gov

LVIP Christmas Special

Vegas Improvisational Players. Brighten your silent night with lighthearted, clean antics based on audience suggestions.

7P, $10; $5 kids, seniors, and military.

Show Creators Studio, 4455 W. Sunset Road, lvimprov.com

DEC. 31

Resolution Run 10K/5K/1M

Get an early start to your New Year’s resolutions. Finishers of this slightly hilly course receive a shirt and a medal. Walkers and strollers welcome.

12P, $25–$45, Kellogg-Zaher Park, 7901 W. Washington Avenue, tripledareruns.com

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the gift of giving YO U R T I M E A N D D O N AT I O N S C A N H E L P M A K E T H I S W I N T E R MERRIER AND BRIGHTER FOR THOSE IN NEED

Compiled by Mélanie Hope ADULT DAY CARE CENTERS OF LAS VEGAS AND HENDERSON

Nicholas Galanin, Things Are Looking Native, Native’s Looking Whiter, 2012

This organization helps families avoid or postpone nursing home admission by bridging the gap between home and nursing home with compassionate and professional care.

Needs: Donations, visits, entertainment, event planning, facilities support, class leadership.

Volunteer: 702-6483425, adultdaycarelv.org

AID FOR AIDS OF NEVADA

AFAN provides medical case management, medical transportation, education, housing, and nutritional services for adults and children affected

by HIV/AIDS. Needs: Donate new, unwrapped toys and games; assist with gift-wrapping and the annual Kids’ Holiday Party.

Volunteer: 702-3822326, afanlv.org

BABY’S BOUNTY

This active group provides new and gently used infant clothing and gear to babies born to victims of domestic abuse, teen mothers, and low-income families.

Needs: Help with collecting, sorting, cleaning, and preparing clothing donations Volunteer: 702-485-2229, babysbounty.org/ volunteers-lv

BEST BUDDIES NEVADA

children facing adversity with professionally supported, positive relationships.

Needs: Donate, volunteer as “Bigs” who are interested in playing sports, hiking, reading, and other fun events with their “Littles” Volunteer: 702-731-2227, bbbsn.org

Best Buddies International works to enhance the lives of people with intellectual and developmental disabilities (IDD) through socialization programs, job coaching, and tools in leadership development.

Needs: Donate money and office supplies; assist with special events; become a “Buddy” to offer mentoring, friendship, or jobs to persons with IDD Volunteer: 702-822-2268, bestbuddies.org/ nevada

BLIND CENTER OF NEVADA

BCN assists the blind and visually impaired by focusing on personal development, social interaction, and meaningful employment.

Needs: Assist with various daily programs and activities Volunteer: 702-6426000, blindcenter.org

BIG BROTHERS BIG SISTERS OF SOUTHERN NEVADA

BBBS is a mentoring network that provides

Premier Sponsor Louise A. Tarble Foundation Lead Sponsor Wayne And Miriam Prim Major Sponsors Anne Brockinton Lee; Stacie and Charles N. Mathewson; Mercedes-Benz of Reno; RBC Wealth Management and City National Bank

Donald W. Reynolds Center for the Visual Arts E. L. Wiegand Gallery 160 West Liberty Street in downtown Reno, Nevada | nevadaart.org

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BOYS & GIRLS CLUBS OF SOUTHERN NEVADA

transitional housing, aid to low-income families, and a food bank.

Needs: Prepare Thanksgiving baskets, stock pantry shelves, assist with Meals on Wheels, and serve community meals Volunteer: 702-385-2662, catholiccharities.com

Club programs and services promote and enhance the development of boys and girls by instilling a sense of competence, usefulness, belonging, and influence.

Needs: Assist in clubhouse clean-ups and events; collect donations of art and school supplies, clothing, and toys Volunteer: 702-2532801, bgcsnv.org

CHILD HAVEN

By improving parenting skills and strengthening relationships, their mission is to break the cycle of abuse and neglect, and lay the foundation for generations of safe and nurturing families.

Needs: Assist in classrooms, group projects, events, and fundraising Volunteer: 702-366-2081, childhaven.org

CATHOLIC CHARITIES OF SOUTHERN NEVADA

Regardless of faith, the charity provides counseling services, services to pregnant women, immigration legal assistance,

CLARK COUNTY READS

An initiative of the Public Education Foundation that offers literacy programs to children and families.

Needs: Tutor students in reading, help with general clerical work, pick up and deliver books Volunteer: 702-799-1042, thepef.org

GOODIE TWO SHOES FOUNDATION

The organization provides disadvantaged children and children in crisis with new shoes and socks, as well as other items deemed essential for good health and positive development.

Needs: Help participating children select

properly fitted shoes, assist with filling of backpacks, serve lunches Volunteer: 702-617-4027, goodie twoshoes.org

HEAVEN CAN WAIT ANIMIAL SOCIETY

Heaven Can Wait works to eliminate companion animal suffering and pet overpopulation through aggressive spay/neuter programs, adoptions, community outreach, and education.

Needs: Work tables at events, write for various publications, assist in fostering and adoption programs, administrative work, clinical work Volunteer: 702-227-5555, hcws.org

HELPING HANDS OF VEGAS VALLEY

A nonprofit with the mission to provide free assistive services to senior citizens in Southern Nevada, allowing them to maintain their dignity and independence while improving health and daily living.

Needs: Drive seniors to their appointments, help with admin duties, assist with the food pantry and delivery services, distribute pet food — bilingual volunteers particularly needed Volunteer: 702-507-1850, hhovv.org

HELP OF SOUTHERN NEVADA

HELP assists the poor, the homeless, and those

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TUACAHN.ORG

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in crisis to receive emergency services and holiday gifts through its three signature programs: Adopt-AFamily, Turkey-A-Thon, and Toy Drive/Holiday Assistance.

Needs: Host a donation drive, sponsor an event, assist in events planning and execution, adopt a family Volunteer: 702-369-4357, helpsonv.org

JEWISH FAMILY SERVICE AGENCY JFSA supports people of all backgrounds by providing professional social services, including counseling, senior services, adoptions, and emergency assistance.

Needs: Help with daily administrative tasks, the food pantry, driving

seniors, and events held throughout the year Volunteer: 702-7320304, jfsalv.org/ volunteer

LAS VEGAS VALLEY HUMANE SOCIETY

The Humane Society is dedicated to improving the welfare of animals, particularly those that are stray or abandoned.

Needs: Foster or sponsor an animal; transport rescues; walk dogs or socialize with cats; assist in fundraisers; help with administrative work; donate blankets, pet food, or toys Volunteer: 702-434-2009, lvvhumane.org

LAS VEGAS RESCUE MISSION The Las Vegas Rescue

THREE SQUARE

Three Square’s mission is to provide wholesome food to hungry people while passionately pursuing a hunger-free community. The Backpack for Kids program provides Clark County schoolchildren in need with bags of nourishing food for after school, weekends, holidays, and school breaks.

Needs: Donate funds; sort and package meals for school programs; help out at special events; box meals for the Senior Share Program Volunteer: 702-644-3663, threesquare.org

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Mission provides people in need with shelter and services without regard to religion or origin.

During the holidays, it provides children with Christmas gifts, as well as food and other essentials.

Needs: Help serve meals, sort and price items for the thrift store, assist in toy and food drives, mentor recovery clients, provide life skills training Volunteer: 702-3821766, vegasrescue.org

adoptions, and emergency assistance.

Needs: Assist with assembly and distribution of holiday baskets; join the Adopt-A-Family program; help with the emergency services food pantry, office tasks, maintenance at housing units, and fundraising Volunteer: 702-639-1730, lssnv.org

TOYS 4 TOTS

This program run by the U.S. Marines collects new, unwrapped toys and distributes them as Christmas gifts to needy children.

Needs: Gather toy and financial donations, help with the transportation and storage of donated toys, assist in

LUTHERAN SOCIAL SERVICES OF NEVADA LSSNV provides professional social services to people of all backgrounds, including counseling, senior services,

the warehouse, help with meals Volunteer: 702-2228697, las-vegas-nv. toysfortots.org

NEVADA PARTNERSHIP FOR HOMELESS YOUTH

NPHY provides youth services, including street outreach, 24-hour crisis intervention, a full-time drop-in center, and an independent living program.

Needs: Donate food, clothing, hygiene items, school supplies and other needed items; assemble and distribute sack lunches; join or host events; assist with clerical tasks; help in the food pantry and clothing closet Volunteer: 702-383-1332, nphy.org

OPPORTUNITY VILLAGE

OV helps people with severe intellectual and related disabilities seek independence by providing vocational training, community employment, day services, advocacy, arts programs, and social recreation.

Needs: Work with men and women with intellectual disabilities; assist with various events including the Magical Forest Volunteer: 702-259-3741, opportunityvillage.org

THE RONALD MCDONALD HOUSE OF GREATER LAS VEGAS Ronald McDonald House Charities provides lodging,

transportation, and support to families while their children receive medical treatment.

Needs: Become a Family Room host at Sunrise Children’s Hospital, assist in the office, drive a shuttle van or make deliveries, help with cleaning and maintenance, decorate lunch bags and caring cards, wrap gifts, cook holiday meals Volunteer: 702-2524663, rmhlv.com/ volunteer

THE SALVATION ARMY

This well-known organization offers adult rehabilitation, emergency disaster relief, victim and veteran services, and youth programs.

Needs: Sponsor and

FRESH IS GOOD. So is delicious!

TOWN SQUARE

(702) 914-9145

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TIVOLI VILLAGE

(702) 433-1233

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assist with toy drives, food drives, and Christmas Angel Tree programs; participate in the Adopt-a-Kettle program through the holidays Volunteer: 702-870-4430, salvationarmysouthernnevada.org/volunteer

THE SHADE TREE The Shade Tree provides a safe shelter for homeless and abused women and children in crisis — along with their pets — and offers services promoting stability, dignity and self-reliance.

Needs: Help prepare and serve daily meals; assist in the clinic; tutor children or teach life skills classes to adults; organize arts and craft projects;

provide transportation; help with cleaning, painting, and yard work; assist with special events Volunteer: 702-385-0072, theshadetree.org

SPREAD THE WORD NEVADA

The goal of Spread the Word Nevada is to promote early literacy by giving books to children in at-risk, low-income communities.

Needs: Help prepare books, become a mentor or reading companion at an elementary school, assist with Breakfast/ Snack Time with Books programs and at community events Volunteer: 702-564-7809, spreadtheword nevada.org

ST. JUDE’S RANCH FOR CHILDREN

SJRC works with abused, neglected, and at-risk children and young adults through residential foster care, transitional living, housing, services for homeless 18-25 year-olds, child-focused sibling preservation, emergency placement, and child nutrition programs.

Needs: Volunteers in the thrift store and mailroom; help with maintenance of the grounds and buildings, holiday decorating, and donations from the holiday wish list Volunteer: 702-294-7145, stjudesranch.org

VA SOUTHERN NEVADA HEALTHCARE SYSTEM

background.

Needs: Assist in sorting and wrapping toy donations, set up and help during the annual Reindeer Rock event, coach sports teams, chaperone field trips, teach classes, fundraise Volunteer: lasvegasymca.org

The U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs honors America’s veterans by providing exceptional health care that improves their well-being.

Needs: Donate new clothing and hygiene items, help transport patients to medical appointments, assist with admin duties Volunteer: 702-791-9134, lasvegas. va.gov/giving

YWCA

The YWCA focuses on eliminating racism and empowering women in Nevada.

Needs: Tutor international visitors in English, teach teens financial literacy, assist in preschool classrooms, join the Youth Mentor Program, become part of the Eracism Seminar leadership, fundraise Volunteer: ywcanevada.org

YMCA

The YMCA provides personal and social change through Christian principles and opportunities to learn, grow, and thrive side-by-side regardless of age, income, or

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The Guide

▼

ART THROUGH NOV. 11

The Art of Anthony Bondi

Bondi’s collages, photos, and interactive sculptures encapsulate the wild essence of Nevada, from Burning Man to Las Vegas. Free.

The Studio at Sahara West Library, lvccld.org

THROUGH NOV. 19

Rainbow’s Edge View this collaborative quilt exhibit by members of the Art Quilts, Etc. Circle within Desert Quilters of Nevada. Free. Art Gallery at Summerlin Library, lvccld.org

THROUGH NOV. 24

Mikayla Whitmore: There Is No Right Time

Whitmore seeks to highlight a series of unintentional vestiges of fading beliefs in order to trace a pantheon of contested principles that reflect romantic notions of the American West. Free. Richard Tam Alumni Center at UNLV, unlv.edu

THROUGH NOV. 26

Land and Water

David Mazur presents realistic

watercolors featuring the people and land around him. Free. Art Gallery at Windmill Library, lvccld.org

THROUGH NOV. 28

Light Play

Kinetic artist Sarah Petkus and engineer Mark Koch present their interactive hive of miniature delta robots which react to participants’ physical gestures.

Free. Art Gallery at Enterprise Library, lvccld.org

THROUGH DEC. 29

Masking

This exhibition combines traditional Mexican masks with contemporary artwork to blur the lines between art and artifice, self and other, being and nonbeing. 9A–5P, free.

Marjorie Barrick Museum at UNLV, unlv.edu

THROUGH JAN. 2

The Art of Kip Miller

Miller presents a surreal world through his stylized paintings. Free.

West Las Vegas Library, lvccld.org

THROUGH JAN. 7

Springs Preserve Photo Contest Exhibition See how professional, amateur, and youth pho-

tographers have captured all things related to “10” in celebration of the Springs Preserve’s first decade in the desert. 9A–5P, free for members or with paid general admission. Springs Preserve, springs preserve.org

THROUGH JAN. 9

Desert Companion’s Focus on Nevada Photo Showcase

Winning photography selected for Desert Companion’s 2017 "Focus on Nevada" feature. Free.

Centennial Hills Library, lvccld.org

THROUGH JAN. 16

▼

MUSIC NOV. 2

Faculty Artists Recital — Jennifer Grim & Jonathan Lee

Grim (traverso) and Lee (harpsichord), directors of the Las Vegas Baroque Festival, will present a recital of baroque music.

7:30P, free. Doc Rando Recital Hall at UNLV, unlv.edu

NOV. 3

Cantus

Men’s vocal ensemble performs with the Green Valley High School Choir.

7:30P, $20–$50.

Artemus W. Ham Concert Hall at UNLV, unlv.edu

Low Res

NOV. 4

NOV. 15–19

The Las Vegas Philharmonic presents selections from Aaron Copland and Silvestre Revueltas.

7:30P, pre-show conversation 6:30P, $30–$109.

Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter. com

A new body of paintings by Eric Vozzola that celebrate and examine pixilation. Free. Art Gallery at Whitney Library, lvccld.org

Mystical Arts of Tibet

From all the artistic traditions of Tantric Buddhism, that of painting with colored sand ranks as unique and exquisite. The artist will construct a mandala throughout opening day and it will remain on display until 2P closing day. Free.

West Charleston Library, lvccld.org

NOV. 29–DEC. 12

AIDS Memorial Quilt Exhibit Founded in 1987, the quilt is a poignant memorial, a powerful tool for use in preventing new HIV infections, and the largest ongoing community arts project in the world. Free.

West Charleston Library, lvccld.org

Copland in Mexico

NOV. 4

Tribute to Rod Stewart

John Anthony is an accomplished performer, musician, and popular entertainer who continues to captivate audiences around the world with his incredible tribute to Stewart.

7P, $20. Starbright Theatre at Sun City Summerlin, scscai.com

NOV. 5

Las Vegas Brass Band: A Salute to Veterans Selections will include some favorite patriotic and significant pieces from throughout

our history. 2P, free. Main Theater at Clark County Library, lvccld.org

NOV. 8

UNLV Contemporary Jazz Ensemble

sor Emeritus at the Eastman School of Music. 7:30P, free.

Doc Rando Recital Hall at UNLV, unlv.edu

NOV. 15

Directed by Julian Tanaka. 7P, free.

Flamingo Library Theater, lvccld.org

NOV. 8

UNLV Community Band

Anthony LaBounty and Dr. Zane S. Douglass, conductors. 7:30P, $10. Doc Rando Recital Hall at UNLV, unlv.edu

NOV. 8–9

Die Fledermaus

UNLV Opera Workshop II presents Johann Strauss’ effervescent operetta full of waltzing, silliness, and champagne.

7:30P, $10. Doc Rando Recital Hall at UNLV, unlv.edu

NOV. 10–11

Doo-Wopp Hall of Fame of America

Doo-Wopp Hall of Fame inductees join forces for a musical journey to the golden age of Rock ‘n’ Roll. 6P, $39–$62.

Myron’s Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center, thesmith center.com

NOV. 11

Neil Diamond — The Tribute

Longtime Diamond tribute act Rob Garrett and the KOD Band pay tribute to the legendary singer/ songwriter. 6P, $20.

Starbright Theatre at Sun City Summerlin, scscai.com

Ryan Ahern

Popular pianist Ahern and his pop orchestra present an evening of music crossing all genres. 6P, $20.

Starbright Theatre at Sun City Summerlin, scscai.com

NOV. 15

Chamber Orchestra

UNLV School of music presents this classical concert.

7:30P, free. Doc Rando Recital Hall at UNLV, unlv.edu

NOV. 16

The President’s Concert

A wind orchestra featuring UNLV faculty, students, and distinguished conductors with guest high school choirs honoring Las Vegas Area French Legion of Honor Recipients.

7:30P, $10. Doc Rando Recital Hall at UNLV, unlv.edu

NOV. 16

Giada Valenti — From Venice with Love

Italian songstress Valenti pays tribute to iconic singers like Dusty Springfield, Karen Carpenter, Linda Ronstadt, and many more. 8P, $35–$55. Myron’s Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter. com

NOV. 17

An Evening with Paul Anka

Featuring the music of Samuel Adler, longtime faculty at Juilliard and Profes-

The legendary singer-songwriter performs his hits spanning 60 years.

7:30P, $29–$149.

Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter. com

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NOV. 13

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NOV. 25

Singer/pianist Ball performs southern boogie, roadhouse blues, and ballads.

6P, $39–$59.

Myron’s Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center, thesmith center.com

The Las Vegas Pipe Band will play for this holiday tradition.

4P, $3–$10. Main Theater at Clark County Library, lvccld.org

Marcia Ball

NOV. 17–19

Noah’s Flood

See the parable as you have never seen it before, through opera! Joined by the Opera Las Vegas Children’s Choir (playing the animals), it is a one-of-a-kind performance.

Multiple venues and times, free, operalasvegas. com

NOV. 18

With Love — Luther Vandross and Friends, The Ultimate Tribute Show

NOV. 27

Weiwei Le

UNLV School of Music presents this faculty violin studio recital.

5:30P, free. Doc Rando Recital Hall at UNLV, unlv.edu

NOV. 29

Artist-inResidence — Preston Duncan, saxophone

Duncan is an internationally acclaimed performer and educator based in Minneapolis. 7:30P, free.

Doc Rando Recital Hall at UNLV, unlv.edu N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 7

The Jacksons present old-time Western music and clog dancing.

2P, $20. Starbright Theatre at Sun City Summerlin, scscai.com

NOV. 19

NOV. 19

.

Mama’s Wranglers, Jackson Family Band and Cloggers

NOV. 27–29

The Russian-born singer/songwriter will perform some of her original and award-winning songs, with a full band. 3P, free.

Concert Hall at Whitney Library, lvccld.org

C O M PA N I O N

NOV. 26

Jassen Allen Grimm presents a tribute to Vandross, Whitney Houston, Donna Summer, and more. 6P, $20. Starbright Theatre at Sun City Summerlin, scscai.com

Marina V Live

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Celtic Thanksgiving V

UNLV Fall Jazz Festival

Each night features a different group from the Jazz program.

7:30P, $10. Black Box Theater at UNLV, unlv.edu

Angels & Demons — Scenes about Good & Evil

UNLV Opera performs various scenes from different shows, focusing on scenes about good and evil. 7:30P, $10.

Doc Rando Recital Hall at UNLV, unlv.edu

NOV. 30

Graduate Wind Quintet

The UNLV Graduate Wind Quintet will perform a recital of chamber works. 7:30P, free.

Doc Rando Recital Hall at UNLV, unlv.edu

NOV. 30

David Perrico — Pop Strings Orchestra “Songbook of Soul” Concert Volume 2

Perrico, his Pop Strings Orchestra, and guest vocalists perform classic Soul and R&B hits. 8P, $20–$40.

Myron’s Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center, thesmith center.com

DEC. 1

Annual Holiday Guitar Concert Enjoy a night of enchanting Christmas music performed on guitars played exclusively by Guitar Society members representing all ages.

7P, free. West Charleston Library, lvccld.org

DEC. 1–2

Poncho Sanchez

Conga drummer Poncho Sanchez stirs up a fiery stew of Jazz, Soul and Latin and South American melodies.

Fri 7P; Sat 6P and 8:30P, $37–$59.

Myron’s Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center, thesmith center.com

DEC. 2

Home for the Holidays — Las Vegas Philharmonic

cluding Part One of Handel’s Messiah.

7:30P; pre-concert conversation, 6:30P, $30-$109.

Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter. com

DEC. 3

Symphonic Rockshow

This show features the music of Queen, Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd, and other classic rock greats. 6P, $29–$75. Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, thesmith center.com

▼

THEATER & COMEDY THROUGH NOV. 4

Good Kids

Something happened to Chloe after that party last Saturday night. Something she says she can’t remember. Something everybody is talking about.

Whose version of the story do you believe? 7:30P, $16.50. Black Box Theatre in Alta Ham Fine Arts at UNLV, unlv.edu

THROUGH NOV. 18

Oliver!

The annual event features Peter and the Wolf, selections from The Nutcracker, a holiday sing-along, and more. 2P, $30– $129. Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, the smithcenter.com

The streets of Victorian England come to life as Oliver, a malnourished orphan in a workhouse, becomes the neglected apprentice of an undertaker and then escapes to London.

Sat 2P; Mon–Sat 7:30P, $20–$30.

Summerlin Library, signatureproduct ions.net

DEC. 2

NOV. 2–19

The Las Vegas Philharmonic performs Baroque-era holiday classics, in-

Have fun with Mike Bartlett’s play about a couple who meet in the Swinging London of 1967.

A Baroque Holiday — Handel’s Messiah

Love, Love, Love

D E S E R T C O M P A N I O N .V E G A S

NOV. 2–19

An Octoroon

Branden Jacobs-Jenkins takes Dion Boucicault’s 1859 tale of interracial romance and turns it into a hilarious comparison of attitude towards race, then and now.

Thu–Sat 8P; Sun 5P, $25. Majestic Repertory Theatre, majesticrepertory. com

NOV. 3–19

The Motherf**ker with the Hat

Get wrapped up in Stephen Adly Guirgis’ black comedy of trust, desire, and rehab. Thu–Sat 8P; Sun 2P, $10–$15.

Fischer Black Box at Las Vegas Little Theatre, lvlt.org

NOV. 4–5

One-Man Dark Knight: A Batman Parody

Canadian solo-acting sensation Charles Ross returns to the District with his witty take on Christopher Nolan’s cinematic masterpiece. 3P, free. Nov. 4, Main Theater at Clark County Library; Nov. 5, Performing Arts Center at Windmill Library, lvccld.org

NOV. 5

I Moved a Mountain

Jimmy Weber’s show is about the places he’s been and the people he’s met along the way.

3p, free. Lecture Hall at West Charleston Library, lvccld.org

NOV. 18

LVIP Thanksgiving Extravaganza

Feast on the musical comedy of the Las Vegas Improvisational Players as they make up the

show on the spot, based on your suggestions. 7P, $10; $5 kids, seniors, and military. Show Creators Studio, 4455 W. Sunset Road, lvimprov.com

Channel 10

Thu–Sat 8P; Sun 2P. Cockroach Theatre, cockroach theatre.com

NOV. 21–26

The Bodyguard

This musical based on the hit film stars R&B singer Deborah Cox and features many of Whitney Houston’s biggest hits. Wed-Sun 7:30P; Sat–Sun 2P, $36–$127. Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, thesmith center.com

NOV. 30

Luminaria and Las Posada

Beyond a Year in Space Wednesday, November 15 at 9 p.m.

Kick off the holidays with this live reenactment of the Nativity accompanied by musical performances from local talent. 6P, free. Boulder City Recreation Center, 900 Arizona St., visitbouldercity. com

DEC. 1–17

What the Butler Saw

Fallen trousers, sexual indiscretions, mistaken identities, and lewd puns abound in Joe Orton’s farce about psychiatry, religion, marriage, government, definitions of gender, and even simple language.

Thu–Sat 8P; Sat– Sun 2P, $21–$24.

Las Vegas little Theatre, lvlt.org

Nature: The Cheetah Children

David Letterman: The Mark Twain Prize

Wednesday, November 8 at 8 p.m.

Monday, November 20 at 9 p.m.

▼

DANCE NOV. 8

Derrick Suwaima Davis

Seven-time world champion hoop dancer and champion fancy dancer, Davis will perform with five rattan hoops. 10:30A, free. Main Theater at Clark County Library, lvccld.org

Anne of Green Gables: The Good Stars

Finding Your Roots

Thursday, November 23 at 8 p.m.

Tuesdays at 8 p.m.

VegasPBS.org | 3050 E Flamingo Road, Las Vegas, NV 89121 | 702.799.1010 N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 7

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The Guide NOV. 11–12

Classic Americana — Serenade, Company B, and Western Symphony

With toothsome foodie features, full-bodied chef profiles, savory local dining trends & ambrosial photography, home delivery of Desert Companion means you will never miss out on Las Vegas’ culinary scene even if you stay in.*

A Veteran’s Day celebration of Americana with the Nevada Ballet Theatre featuring works by George Balanchine and Paul Taylor.

Sat 7:30P; Sun 2P, $29–$139. Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, the smithcenter.com

Subscribe now and never miss an issue at desertcompanion.vegas.

NOV. 14

Momix-Opus Cactus

*It’ll be our little secret.

MOMIX is a company of highly skilled dancer-illusionists performing a Cirque-like show celebrating the landscape of the American Southwest. 6P, $19–$69. Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com

NOV. 16–19

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Enjoy an exciting collection of dances from the bachelor of fine arts dance majors. Thu–Fri 7:30P; Fri–Sun 2:30P, $18. Alta Ham Fine Arts at UNLV, unlv.edu

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DEC. 9–24

The Nutcracker

NBT’s annual presentation of Tchaikovsky’s holiday classic features more than 100 dancers.

Wed–Sat 7:30P; Sat– Sun 2P, $29–$179, Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, the smithcenter.com

Follow

▼

DISCUSSIONS & READINGS NOV. 2

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Connor comments on specific environments by recreating and repeating features of their architecture. 7P, free. Free. Marjorie

Barrick Museum at UNLV, unlv.edu

NOV. 3

The Sinatra Stories: An Evening with Comedian Tom Dreesen

Dreesen was Frank Sinatra’s opening act for 14 years. In this show, he shares personal stories and insights from his work with the entertainment legend. 7P, $39–$59. Myron’s Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com

NOV. 9

Brigid McCaffrey

McCaffrey’s films introduce their audiences to precarious environments where change is examined and questioned. 7P, free. Free. Marjorie Barrick Museum at UNLV, unlv.edu

NOV. 16

Walter Robinson

Influential art writer and postmodern pop-art painter Robinson was an integral part of the 1980s New York art world.

7P, free. Marjorie Barrick Museum at UNLV, unlv.edu

NOV. 17

Disneyland and Themed Space

The talk will focus on the origins of Disneyland and its enduring legacy.

7P, free. Marjorie Barrick Museum at UNLV, unlv.edu

NOV. 18

A Visit with S-Town Podcast Producer Brian Reed

Carrie Kaufman (KNPR’s State of Nevada) sits down with Reed to discuss all things S-Town, as well as his work on Serial and as senior producer on This American Life. 2P, free.

Performing Arts Center at Windmill Library, lvccld.org

D E S E R T C O M P A N I O N .V E G A S

NOV. 18

Tellabration

Tellers from Nevada Storytelling Guild will share their storytelling talents with the community in a celebration of the many types and styles of story.

1P, free. West Charleston Library, lvccld.org

▼

FAMILY & FESTIVALS NOV. 3–5

The Craft Festival

The grand finale after 35 years that you won’t want to miss features 200 independent artisans from seven western states, plus food and fun. 10A–5P, $8; $7 seniors; $2 ages 11–17; 10 and younger free; $5 parking. Cashman Center, steve powers.com

NOV. 3–5

Día de Muertos

This family-friendly event blends rich customs with exciting activities such as live theater and dance performances, altars, mariachis, face painting, sugar-skull decorating, and an art exhibition.

4P, $8 adults; $5 children. Springs Preserve, springs preserve.org

NOV. 4

Sunset Park’d Food Truck and Micro Brew Festival

Enjoy live music, great food, and a festival of brews — all while benefiting the New Vista organization. 12–9P, $30–$50, includes a beer mug and tasting guide.

Sunset Park, brewsbest.com

NOV. 4

10th Annual Vegas Valley Comic Book Festival

The longest-running comic book event in Southern Nevada offers a day chock-full of comic book culture, cosplay, workshops and panels, face painting, creators, and food trucks.

9:30A–4:30P, free. Clark County Library, lvccld. org

NOV. 17

Santa’s Arrival Parade

Join in the summoning of winter when Santa arrives and lights the 45-foot Christmas tree.

There will be real snow and photos with Santa inside his house.

7P, free. Town Square Park, mytownsquare lasvegas.com

NOV. 17–19

Holiday Craft and Gift Festival

Check out the vintage Christmas train display while enjoying holiday music, food, and shopping. Fri–Sat 10A–5P; Sun 10A–4P, $5. South Point Hotel & Casino Event Center, lvcraftfestival.com

NOV. 18

Color Me Kind 5K

This paint run allows participants to be doused with a different color at each kilometer to create a kaleidoscope of fun. Ages 5+. 8A, $35. Along Paseo Verde Parkway, cityof henderson.com

closed to motorized traffic so that you may enjoy the street via bicycle, skates, skateboard, stroller, or on foot. Along the way, enjoy craft and food vendors.

10A–2P, free. Along Paseo Verde Parkway, cityofhender son.com

NOV. 24

Last Friday — Just Add Water Street

A foodie, arts, music, and crafts celebration in the historic downtown area. 6–10P, free.

Henderson Events Plaza, 200 S. Water St., cityofhenderson.com

▼

FUNDRAISERS

NOV. 18

NOV. 3

The road will be

Enjoy an exciting

Henderson Stroll ’n’ Roll

Fashion for Autism Gala

runway show of the season’s latest trends, an incredible dinner, and an amazing live auction. Proceeds from this event will help supply center diagnostic services, treatment, and other support services.

6–9P, $300. Aria Resort and Casino, grantagift foundation.org

NOV. 4

Desserts in the Desert

Enjoy an array of sweet treats from local bakeries, restaurants, coffee shops, and chefs — all paired with craft beer, wine, and cocktails. Proceeds benefit Nevada PEP. 12–4P, $10 desserts only; $25 with pairings.

Sanchos Mexican Grill, 2021 W. Sunset Road,

dessertsinthe desert.com

NOV. 10

Art in Full Bloom

The art and floral industries come together for this open house that includes raffles and a silent auction. Benefits Aid for AIDS of Nevada. 4–9P, free. 3950 W. Diablo Drive #B11, afanlv.org

NOV. 11

Cheers to Chocolate

This fundraiser for Easter Seals features savory bites and scrumptious delights from several restaurants — plus wine and beer tasting. 7–10P, $35–$80. The District at Green Valley Ranch, easterseals.com/ nevada

NOV. 10–JAN. 6

Glittering Lights Las Vegas

Nevada’s largest drive-through light show, this annual event showcases 1 million LEDs and more than 400 animated displays over 2.5 miles.

Open every night at dusk, $20 per vehicle. Las Vegas Motor Speedway, glitteringlights lasvegas.com

NOV. 17–19

40th Annual Christmas Bazaar

The Women’s Guild hosts this popular indoor/ outdoor event full of fine arts, crafts, clothing, jewelry, antiques, and more. Fri–Sat 8A–6P; Sun 8A– 2P, free. St. Viator Parish, 2461 E. Flamingo Road, stviator.org

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N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 7

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