Desert Companion - May 2015

AFTER HARRY Can Nevada Dems keep Reid’s political machine humming?

05 MAY

15

summer travel

ON THE ROAD Getaway drives to the four points of the compass

PLUS

THE SIPS OF SUMMER

Keep your cool with the hot season’s top new cocktails

TRAIL MIX

TRAVELING THE GRAND CIRCLE

Beatty booster peddles dream of mountainbiking gold

ATTRACTION SUBTRACTION

Expanding magnet schools doesn’t equal happiness

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EDiTOR’S Note

Road warriors

T

ravel is not about the destination, it’s about the journey. Ferocious cliché, yes, guilty as charged, but, yeah, owning it, making it my thesis. The truism asks to be dusted off and given special consideration in the context of the Southwest, where it can seem to outsiders like the cosmic mayo jar was down to butter-knife scrapings and the culture and natural beauty got spread awfully thin in these parts. You’ve probably heard a version of an observation like this from visitors and recent transplants to the area: Your desert! It’s so barren, so featureless, so visually arid, so ... deserty. And then you do the de rigueur crash course in Appreciation of the Subtle Sculpture of the Southwest Landscape 101 tap dance.

That our desert has a difficult, recondite beauty is so much more true than we perhaps appreciate. It’s easy to tune out on those road trips when the a/c is deep in its ritual hum and the miles seems strung endlessly along in either direction, the landscape perpetually melts by and gas-station novelty towns are only good for a bathroom stop and maybe an ironic selfie in front of the alien jerky display: midpoints on a map or hazy, interstitial states.

But those moments require and reward attention. The journey really is the destination.

That’s what we celebrate in the feature “Compass points” (p. 67), where four writers launch in four directions from Southern Nevada and record the sensory input, whether it’s mental states, landscapes, roadside attractions or a killer burger. These aren’t brochure-ready destination travel pieces — not that there’s anything wrong with those — but rather breezy tone poems that celebrate a sense of place — again, not in a particular endpoint, in this case, but in the entire trip. You’ll discover small towns on the verge of becoming ghost Next towns, Southwest oddities like driveMOnth through zoos and remote natural hot Eye candy springs happily free from the creeping store: our third spiderweb of your cell phone network. annual Photo Meanwhile, “Planes, trains and jeeps” Issue

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(p. 32) will reintroduce you to some of the great sights and destinations of the Southwest under a new moniker: The Grand Circle. More a space or state of mind than a linear road trip, it reminds us of all the different ways to explore the Southwest — whether by wheel, foot or oar. Or bike — a recreation medium that the town of Beatty is hoping to turn into a source of revenue as its fortunes as a mining town slowly fade (“Build it and they will bike,” p. 38). Also off the beaten path is our story on a Las Vegas sommelier with an unlikely backstory in the rural Nevada town of Yerington (“Little bit country,” p. 52).

Even if you’re not packing the car for a road trip, there’s plenty to explore in town this season — like that other thing Vegas is famous for: drinks. The rise of mixology as a culinary art has sparked a whole new breed of bar in Las Vegas (one that’s a welcome break from the gloomy videopoker grottoes that spring so readily from our native soil). And with it comes a new kind of seasonal offering: the summer cocktail. Check out “Buzz feed” on p. 82. Whether you’re looking for something to take the edge off the heat or take your head off your shoulders, our summer cocktail preview should generate some serious buzz. Happy tripping.

Andrew Kiraly editor

Follow Desert Companion www.facebook.com/DesertCompanion www.twitter.com/DesertCompanion

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GIVE AN HOUR and

MAKE HER DAY Join the Caesars Foundation and get into the act of celebrating and supporting our community’s seniors during Senior Appreciation Month.

GIVE AN HOUR TO AN OLDER ADULT IN MAY! Our collective hours will make a huge difference in the life of our senior community.

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MAY 2015

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Vo lU m e 1 3 I s s u e 5 HEALTH

Join us for our Open House Feb 26th at 4 pm.

HEAR MORE

1

There must be something in the air, because this month’s mailbag is rife with anxiety about it — whether it’s floating cat germs, airborne asbestos or rogue, munchWAITING TO INHALE ie-inducing pot clouds coming to turn your children into li’l stoners.

Our February story on asbestos in Boulder City, “Waiting to Inhale,” is still drawing attention — and worry. Reader Stephanie Rae writes, “I grew up in Boulder City, as did my parents and their siblings. This story has made me start thinking about my parents and my uncles and aunt, five out of six of them have or have had cancer; two have died, two are battling and one is in remission, only one has been cancer-free.

“My oldest uncle, John, died from brain cancer. My mother was the second to be diagnosed with cancer — breast cancer.

My aunt: breast cancer as well as melanoma. My dad, gastroesophageal cancer, he died as well. My uncle, salivary cancer.

When my dad was diagnosed, battling and dying, I was convinced his cancer was related to growing up in Boulder City and working in the Las Vegas Valley. ... I can’t stop thinking about how living, growing up in the Vegas Valley and Boulder City has impacted my family. And I can’t help but wonder how much more there really is to this story, and whether there is a greater impact to be made in helping prevent more families from experiencing such loss and suffering by preventing stirring up the asbestos in the soil, by decreasing exposure.”

S

itting in her small, cluttered office on the fourth floor of UNLV’s Science and Engineering Building, geology professor Brenda Buck pauses to ponder my question: Has her recent discovery of naturally occurring asbestos in the Boulder City area had any personal — emotional, maybe — impact on her? The sun shines through a north-facing window, lighting up her strawberry-blond hair and blue eyes.

“Yes,” she finally says. “I used to board

34

Breathe uneasy: Researchers Rodney Metcalf, left, and Brenda Buck

my horse, Jimmy, at a stable in Boulder City. Sometimes, when my grandkids were little, I’d take them for rides out there. I can’t remember specifically where we’d go or whether it was windy, which would have increased their chance of exposure (to any asbestos in the air), but I do think about that now.”

A few weeks later, from his Carson City office at the Nevada Division of Public and Behavioral Health, Ihsan Azzam says almost exactly the opposite, without the slightest

FEBRUARY 2015

DESERTCOMPANION.COM

Meanwhile, commenter Wen responded to our April story, “The Death of Killing,” on no-kill pet activists’ criticisms of the Animal Foundation, which runs the county’s animal shelter. “The problem with no-kill gets horribly exacerbated with cats, when you have cats hoarded outdoors with no respect for property rights of neighbors or the impact the animals have on local wildlife, or the role the cats play as vectors of disease transmission to humans. Rabies, toxoplasmosis, typhus, and even plague are on the rise throughout the country because of the increase in feral roaming cats in communities. There are 70 million free-roaming homeless cats in the U.S. They are causing extinctions in Hawaii, Australia, New Zealand and other places around the world. The irresponsible feeding attracts other animals like skunks, possums, coyotes, and raccoons, and increases the potential for disease trans-

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mission from and to the cats. No-kill may make people feel better in the short term, but it is a much less humane approach to the pet overpopulation problem when it comes to cats. ...

Cat containment is the answer. Euthanasia is not cruelBID. forWIN. the individual animal. It’s just SUPPORT. 2 T the vast numbers from 1 uncontrolled breedONLINE 3 Feb. 5 – Feb. 14 ing that makes humansBIDuncomfortable. Why do we have no problem slaughtering millions of cows, chickens, lambs, rats, snakes, possums, raccoons, but want to elevate a species that breeds like a rat to some kind of protected status? Look at the effects of toxoplasmosis. Not just for pregnant women and their fetuses, but its relationship to schizophrenia, dementia, Alzheimer’s and autism. Cats are the definitive host for the parasite and they shed it in their feces. Vegas is a big sand box — don’t let it become a litter box.”

After two UNLV researchers discovered asbestos in Southern Nevada soil, they wanted to study it further. Why did state health authorities stand in their way? B Y H E I D I K YS E R

2

a December luncheon hosted by fundraising nonprofit Nevada Biotechnology & Health Science, I witnessed the impact of her presentation firsthand.

“This is blowing me away,” a middle-aged woman in the audience said. “Let’s say you were able to do all this further study and you find that there is a high concentration of asbestos in the air. You’re going to be fighting a lot of different people to get anything done about it. It’s very difficult to change the (political) environment.”

The “further study” that the shaken spectator was alluding to is the crux of the real question at hand: Does Buck and Metcalf’s work merit continued examination — and funding — and if so, then why did the state health department bar them two years ago from accessing patient data critical to their work? Or are they, as Azzam’s stance suggests, barking up the wrong tree, looking for a danger that simply isn’t there?

It’s not just a philosophical problem. If citizens are, indeed, inhaling a harmful amount of asbestos fibers and the state knowingly ignores it, then there could be long-term health implications that add up to expensive lawsuits — not to mention ruined lives. If, on the other hand, there’s nothing in the air around Boulder City worth worrying about, the spotlight on asbestos could create an unnecessary stigma, stunting economic development projects such as the I-11 freeway. In Buck’s view, her preliminary findings are compelling and deserve a public airing; to the state — which controls the health data — her team has violated good-faith research protocols.

How highly does our air quality rate? Hear a discussion on “KNPR’s State of Nevada” at desert companion. com/hear more

hesitation: “I would move to Boulder City in a heartbeat,” he says. “I would be happy to live there with my kids and grandkids. I would not be worried about the risk at all.”

As the state epidemiologist, Azzam says, it’s his responsibility to make sure Nevadans are safe. Sounding every bit as sincere over the phone as Buck appeared in person, he repeats several times that he is convinced her discovery is no cause for alarm, that the existence of asbestos in the environment alone does not equal an impending public health crisis.

How are we to know who’s right?

Buck has recently been on a public speaking tour of sorts, appearing in community forums and academic gatherings to present the findings she and fellow UNLV geology professor Rodney Metcalf have gleaned from nearly five years of collecting and testing soil samples in Southern Nevada — findings that were published in an academic paper in January. At

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he phrase “naturally occurring asbestos” is redundant, says National Institutes of Health toxicologist Christopher Weis, who worked on the high-profile environmental disaster in Libby, Montana, site of a vermiculite mine that sickened many of the townspeople. In fact, all asbestos is naturally occurring, because “asbestos” is the generic term for a variety of mineral particles

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Our story about skeptics of the medical marijuana gold rush, “Budding issue,” drew out other skeptics — and cautious supporters. Launce Rake (an occasional Desert Companion contributor), writes: “There are two things that are demonstrably true: Most ‘medical’ users just want to get high, legally. But there also is no doubt that some people — children with epilepsy, for example — get significant relief not from psychoactive products, but other forms of medical cannabis. The problem is that research into the medical uses is effectively restricted by federal law, and that’s silly.”

But will the seeming avalanche of pot dispensaries be legit pharmacies or more like inner-city vape lounges? Reader Scott Swank is betting on the latter: “The cluster of 20 approved facilities around Las Vegas Blvd. between Sahara and Charleston does not look particularly focused on health care to me,” he writes. “Compare that with one approved facility in the western half of the city: Wards 2, 4 and 6.”

Correction: At a March Clark County Commission meeting about renewing the county’s contract with the Animal Foundation, No Kill Las Vegas representatives said NKLV had $5,000 in the bank and $25,000 in commitments if it was awarded the contract. This figure was reported incorrectly in our April article, “The Death of Killing.”

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Vo lU m e 1 3 I s s u e 0 5

Features 67 sense of direction

We set four writers loose in four directions — north, south, east and west — to see what they’d bring back from their daytripping adventures. Here’s their scrapbook of snapshots and observations. Nutrient-rich healing mud not included.

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74 Sixteen

Weeks until September

It’s going to be a long, hot summer — but not if you spend it largely indoors at our list of hand-picked cultural events! Music, theater, art, parties blended into a tangy smoothie for your brain.

82 Buzz Feed

Want a sip of summer escape? No matter your intended destination, we’ve got the perfect cocktail for this season’s drinking.

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departments All Things

32 travel

51 Dining

91 The Guide

19 education Magnet

Riding, hiking and boating The Grand Circle

By Donna McCrohan Rosenthal

52 The Dish The wine

Enlighten, enliven and engage with these events

schools polarize parents 22 nature The test site’s second act 24 zeit bites If you

38 leisure

like art so much, why don’t you marry it?

26 Profile A young epilepsy activist

Beatty turns from mining to mountain biking to turn the town around

By Vern Hee

28 STYLE Scent of a

44 music

woman 32 Open topic wilight of the Reid T

machine

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Shelley Beth Miller keeps it raw and real

By Lonn Friend

guy from ... Yerington?

53 Eat this now A

caffeinated sandwich?

The future has arrived!

56 at first Bite The world is Andiron’s oyster — and its steak and its chicken and its lamb ...

96 End note A friend in drink is a friend indeed

By Eric James Miller

on the cover PHotography Christopher Smith

s h e l l e y b e t h m i l l e r : a a r o n m ay e s ; m o u n ta i n b i k i n g : c h r i s t o p h e r s m i t h ; m a p : a r i z o n a o f f i c e o f t o u r i s m ; s e a u r c h i n t o a s t : c h r i s t o p h e r s m i t h

May 2015

I love shopping at all the charming boutique shops and brand name stores. And after? Lunch on the patio or maybe a cocktail and a movie. It’s all just a stroll away.

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Transforming Landscapes From Gloom to Bloom!

p u b l i s h e D B y n e va d a p u b l i c r a d i o

Mission Statement Desert Companion is the premier city magazine that celebrates the pursuits, passions and aspirations of Southern Nevadans. With awardwinning lifestyle journalism and design, Desert Companion does more than inform and entertain.

We spark dialogue, engage people and define the spirit of the Las Vegas Valley.

Publisher Melanie Cannon Associate Publisher Christine Kiely Editor Andrew Kiraly Art Director Christopher Smith deputy editor Scott Dickensheets senior designer Scott Lien staff writer Heidi Kyser Graphic Designer Brent Holmes

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Web administrator Danielle Branton traffic coordinator Karen Wong ADVERTISING COPY EDITOR Carla J. Zvosec Contributing writers Cybele, Marisa Finetti, Barry Friedman, Lonn M. Friend, Alan Gegax, Vern Hee, Mélanie Hope, Debbie Lee, Eric James Miller, Christie Moeller, Alissa Nutting, Lissa Townsend Rodgers, Donna McCrohan Rosenthal, Steve Sebelius, Greg Thilmont, Stacy J. Willis, Sarah Jane Woodall

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license 0057280 Licensed, Bonded, & Insured

Call (702) 452-5272 to schedule your projects

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T H R U

Subscriptions: Chris Bitonti, (702) 259-7810; subscriptions@desertcompanion.com Website: www.desertcompanion.com Desert Companion is published 12 times a year by Nevada Public Radio, 1289 S. Torrey Pines Dr., Las Vegas, NV 89146.

It is available by subscription at desertcompanion.com, or as part of Nevada Public Radio membership. It is also distributed free at select locations in the Las Vegas Valley. All photos, artwork and ad designs printed are the sole property of Desert Companion and may not be duplicated or reproduced without the written permission of the publisher.

The views of Desert Companion contributing writers are not necessarily the views of Desert Companion or Nevada Public Radio. Contact Chris Bitonti for back issues, which are available for purchase for $7.95.

ISSN 2157-8389 (print) ISSN 2157-8397 (online)

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Board of Directors Officers cynthia alexander, ESQ. chair Snell & Wilmer Jerry Nadal vice chair Cirque du Soleil TIM WONG treasurer Arcata Associates Florence M.E. Rogers secretary Nevada Public Radio

Directors kevin m. buckley First Real Estate Companies Dave Cabral emeritus Business Finance Corp.

Louis Castle emeritus Patrick N. Chapin, Esq. emeritus Richard I. dreitzer, Esq. Wilson Elser Moskowitz Edelman & Dicker, LLP Elizabeth FRETWELL emeritus City of Las Vegas bOB GLASER BNY Mellon don hamrick Chapman Las Vegas Dodge Chrysler Jeep Ram gavin isaacs Scientific Games Jan Jones Blackhurst Caesars Entertainment Corporation John R. Klai II Klai Juba Wald Architects Lamar Marchese president emeritus William mason Taylor International Corporation Chris Murray emeritus Avissa Corporation William J. “Bill” Noonan emeritus Boyd Gaming Corporation kathe nylen Anthony j. pearl, esq.

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I come to meet up with friends or enjoy happy hour at our usual place. After that, it’s wide open – dinner, drinks and great conversation. The best part? At the end of the night, my friends and I know we’ll be here next week...same time, same place, same great evening.

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A polarizing debate over magnet s c ho ol s

Reid ex machina page 30

Futile attraction A EDUCATION

Parents clamored for more magnet programs. The school district answered — but not everyone is happy with the changes B y H e i d i K ys e r

i l lu s t r at i o n k i p n o s c h e s e

t 7 a.m. on a Friday, a semi rumbles east down St. Louis Avenue near downtown Las Vegas. Painted in blue on the side of the white trailer: “Magnet schools: It’s your choice in education.” Under the tagline is Clark County School District’s logo.

Choice. The concept is more complicated than it seems, especially in this case. Many local parents and public-school students would, indeed, prefer magnets. In the 2014-’15 school year, they submitted 16,600 applications for a third as many available magnet school seats. It’s easy to see why. Clark County’s magnet school program is a bright spot in Nevada’s dim educational picture. While the Annie E. Casey Foundation’s 2014 Kids Count profile ranked the state 50th in the U.S. for education, CCSD bagged 17 awards in last year’s national

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ALL Things

education

Magnet Schools of America recognition program. Late last fall, the district announced it would increase the number of available magnet program seats from approximately 5,700 at 25 schools to 9,000 at 36 schools through 2016-’17, effectively giving more parents and students the chance to snag one.

But choice also suggests freedom, or a basic right. That’s how parent Melissa McGill sees it. She believes that, as part of the public education system, magnet schools should be open to any student who meets their rigorous standards. But that won’t exactly be the case this fall in CCSD, and not just because demand exceeds supply. To draw kids (and help alleviate school overcrowding), the new magnet programs were placed in under-occupied schools. Unable to afford to bus every student from anywhere in the valley to whichever magnet school she attends, the district created transportation zones according to programs of study.

Busing to magnets will only be provided within each school’s zone. Outside the zone? The student will have to get a ride from mom or dad — or somebody. No ride?

They’ll have to attend the magnet school in their transportation zone.

“It’s not actually equitable,” McGill says.

“There’s no difference between forcing kids to go to a nearby magnet school and forcing them to go to their zone school.”

She and other parents of kids currently attending magnet schools feel the district is looking to fix something that isn’t broken. Rather than tinkering with a wellrun program, they wonder, why doesn’t the district simply elevate the quality of instruction across the board? This, in part, is what the district says it’s trying to do. Extending tried-and-true magnet curricula to 11 more schools will not only fill some unmet demand, but also raise the tide that’s floating all CCSD boats.

“If we could give everyone a seat, we would,” says Gia Moore, CCSD’s director of magnets and CTAs, “but logistically, it’s just not possible.”

Instead, they’re betting that their magnet success can be repeated in new locations — that some years hence, a spot at Del Sol’s fledgling performing arts program will be as coveted as one is now at the prestigious Las Vegas Academy.

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Fact from fiction (Transportation zone maps are at magnet.

The magnet program expansion realccsd.net.) ly got the rumor mill churning, and the A compromise HOPE engineered with school district may be partly to blame. The the district grandfathered in students curchange was one of several rezoning solurently attending magnet programs to the tions proposed to help solve the problem old system; they’ll get busing until they graduate. Their entering siblings will also of under-occupied schools in a generally get busing for the time being, and the disovercrowded district, says Caryne Shea, trict extended its magnet school “hubs,” who’s been following the issue for parent advocacy organization HOPE for Nevada. drop-off points where kids can catch busThe district was eager to present these solues. Students can still apply for magnets tions in advance of school construction bond outside their transportation zone, but they legislation proposed for the 2015 session in have to find a ride themselves.

Carson City. So, it rolled out the magnet It’s cold comfort, Melissa McGill points school expansion with fanfare last fall. And out, for that eighth grade dancer who has at first, everyone was excited. his heart set on LVA, but lives outside its “The magnet program is what our distransportation zone, has no sibling there trict seems to do best, so it seemed smart and can’t get a ride. to expand it and use those under-popu“You can’t just slap ‘magnet school’ lated schools to do it,” Shea says. “Most on the letterhead and make it a magnet magnets were in the center of the city, so program,” she says. there was a lot of demand for them in the Moore says the district is doing much outlying areas of the city, and they picked more than that. New magnet programs locations like that.” will be funded through the same grants Then, the details began to leak out. as their old counterparts, and use the same Some parents interpreted the transporentrance criteria and curricula. Veteran tation zones to mean they’d no longer be magnet administrators and teachers have eligible for the magnet schools their kids mentored the new talent. This summer, were already attending. People showed up new magnet staff will undergo specialized in droves at public meetings, angry and training tailored to their subject areas. confused. HOPE met with Moore and her “Opening 11 new programs is fantascolleagues in the magnet-CTA program tic,” Moore says, “but we’ve also worked several times. They succeeded in getting diligently over the past year to make sure they’re getting the right tools and traina few tweaks made to the plan. ing to make them comparable to what we What’s actually happening is best understood in terms of study programs. already had.”

Take LVA, a performing arts high school, Then there’s the risk of brain-drain — for example. Its middle and elementateachers leaving inner-city magnets for ry school equivalents, called “feeder the new programs in the suburbs. A couschools,” are K.O. Knudson and Gilbert. ple of Valley High School’s International Magnet seats are distributed through a Baccalaureate teachers have announced on Facebook that they’re leaving for the lottery system, weighted to favor kids new IB at Basic next year. But that may who are already zoned for the schools with the magnet programs they’re applyjust reflect how CCSD’s teaching talent ing for, who have siblings in the program follows its most motivated students. and who come from feeder schools.

Start“I think overall, the magnet expansion charticle/graph/secondary ing in 2015-’16, Del Sol High School will is going to be a great thing,” Shea says. “It photo provides more school choice and keeps have a performing arts magnet program modeled on LVA’s. For the performance kids more engaged. The transportation arts program’s busing, the city is bisectthing is unfortunate, and we need more ed east to west along Spring Mountain funding for our children anyway, since it Road. Kids who live north of the line can is low, compared to the rest of the country catch a bus to LVA; those on the south … But I have to say, this will work for the will be provided transportation to Del Sol. majority of parents and students.”

ALL Things

environment

the desert

After the boom Once dedicated to destruction, the former Nevada Test Site is now a boon to preservation By Alan Gegax

T

he words “Nevada Test Site” conjure images of a postnuclear wasteland, barren and pockmarked by the testing of weapons that represent the pinnacle of human destructive power.

But I was recently given a once-in-a-lifetime chance to visit what is now called the Nevada National Security Site (NNSS), and I saw it in a different light: as one of America’s last untrammeled lands, inadvertently protected from humans for 60 years.

“Only about 10 percent of NNSS has been used for nuclear testing,” public involvement officer Dona Merritt told me. “That leaves well over a thousand square miles of essentially pristine desert.” I needed to see it for myself. A tour was arranged.

We entered the NNSS on the 22nd anniversary of “Divider,” the site’s final blast.

The base’s Cold War motivations were painfully obvious — buildings were made of poured concrete or cinder blocks, and every angle was a right angle. As we drove further, we passed famous landmarks from its nuclear past: News Nob, Frenchman Flat, Sedan Crater. They seemed big, but they are a tiny fraction of the base.

Our first official stop was at the Beatley Plots to check out some creosote. Biological research being done at the Test Site is critical for our understanding of the natural world. As scientist Kathryn Knapp explained, “We can truly understand the different patterns, how it’s changing over time. And not because of human impact.”

But before we could traipse across the land, Richard Arnold, a Southern Paiute, gathered us into a circle and said a prayer in his native tongue. He asked the earth to shelter us as we wandered its expanse.

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Arnold is part of an NNSS initiative to embrace the area’s natural and cultural history. To that end, we were also joined

by Linda Cohn, federal cultural-resources project manager, and Dr. Colleen Beck, a research professor and archaeologist with the Desert Research Institute.

At a site called Wunjiakuda — named for an enormous white rock that stands alone in a mountain valley; “wunjiakuda” roughly translates to “a thing that sticks out” — Arnold told stories of his ancestors, and of traditions that have mostly died out: vast rabbit hunts in valleys that are now part of the NNSS, annual tribal celebrations, weddings. Some of Arnold’s ancestors had been married in the valley in which we stood. He showed me where his grandfather carved his name into the towering white monolith. You could call it vandalism, but time has made it an artifact.

Air Force pilots, in their turn, peppered Wunjiakuda with bullets, some still in their holes, now antiques.

As we stopped for lunch, a family of wild horses ambled in and out of view on a nearby hillside. Beck leaned over and picked up a piece of knapped obsidian, a leftover shard from an ancient toolmaker — thousand-year-old trash, just lying on the ground. In my decades of hiking in Southern Nevada, I’ve only seen a couple such artifacts. Within a minute I had found one myself; within a half-hour, I had found four more. Contrast that with Red Rock, which is so much richer in resources and human

history; there, such treasures have departed in the pockets of hikers and amateur collectors.

The fact that these artifacts can be lost to history so casually is a striking reminder of the importance of preserving NNSS. We headed for the highest point in the Test Site, DOE Point. From this vantage, it was possible to see into Area 51, or, as Merritt is required to call it, “a neighboring military base.” Sadly, there wasn’t much to see. Just some distant buildings on a dry lakebed. But the vista was amazing all the same, and was made more special by the fact that so few people have stood where I stood.

So few white people, anyway. Richard Arnold reminded me that generations of Indians had roamed these hills. Several years ago, Beck was surveying a site near Wunjiakuda when she noticed a shovel in the branches of a tree. She found other artifacts hidden in trees. “As an archaeologist, I’ve spent my whole career looking down,” Beck explained. “Once I started looking up,” another world of discovery was revealed.

Because the Southern Paiutes would spend half the year away from their valuable tools, the trees served as a secure cache, protecting them from nature’s destructive forces. When Beck published her findings, it prompted other archaeologists around the world to resurvey their sites.

When the Nevada Test Site was founded in 1951, its barren landscape was set aside so it could bear witness to mankind’s destructive ability. Sixty years later, human priorities have shifted enough that, while NNSS still protects our nuclear arsenal, it also protects one of America’s last untouched places.

n e va d a n at i o n a l s e c u r i t y s i t e p h ot o s : d o n a m e r r i t t

Blast from the past: Above, a crater from a nuclear test; left, remnants of ancient stone tools are a frequent find.

Delivering more joy than any Las Vegas attraction.

More than 4,000 newborns every year.

Thousands of mothers choose to deliver their babies at Dignity Health St. Rose Dominican Hospitals. Maybe it’s because we encourage moms to stay close to their babies throughout their time with us, especially in the first hour after birth. Our focus is on giving moms—and their families— choices. For more information on why expectant mothers choose St. Rose, visit strosehospitals.org/maternity.

ALL Things

zeit bites

Double the fun

’Til death do our art J

Art in pairs: From left, images by Sam Davis/Anna Tillett; Diane Bush/Steve Baskin; Suzanne Hackett-Morgan

eanne Voltura (city gallery coordinator): New City Hall The show was my exhibit showcases idea. I’d always think creative work how interesting it is by couples to see artists living together, making art. I think there’s a natural overlap; you can’t help but see links to each person in the other’s art.

Diane Bush (married to Steven Baskin): What’s it like to have an artist spouse? Perfect! I am an artist, and I can’t imagine being married to someone who was not an artist. Steven is not prolific, but he is the conceptual partner for much of our collaborative work. If photography is involved, I have the last say on the images. But his ideas often lead the way.

Steven Baskin: I think the secret is that we share a similar vision and sense of humor. We complement (and compliment) each other very nicely and therefore share a very harmonious life.

Suzanne Hackett-Morgan (married to Charles Morgan): There’s a support you get from your dearest partner. We both understand how important it is to do art. It’s important to who we are.

Sam Davis (partnered with Anna Tillett): In our case it’s ideal — we share similar tastes in music, and our senses of humor and aesthetic tastes mesh, so we often work at the same time in the studio, on very different projects. But all the while we’re sharing the same soundtrack and making jokes and stuff.

We both love collecting and using that kind of stuff as inspiration, which is great. We never have friction if one of us comes home with, say, a vintage toy or a giant plastic ice-cream cone ...

Voltura: The idea is for each artist in the couple to submit a piece and then write a dual statement breaking down how the other person influences their creative process, how something is created, “This is how we do it …”

Hackett-Morgan: The piece I’m submitting to the show is one very few people have seen: a robe I made for Charles from two blackjack felts from the Sands.

Bush: Our most successful collaboration is the large body of work called “Talking Pictures.” It is a combination of my super-macro photography off TV screens with Steven’s humorous look at society and current events. Our favorite work is a satirical look at a common TV

soap-opera story line, “You Stole My Baby.” Steven came up with the idea of using voice frames for fine art. (Voice frames allow a 10-second soundbite to accompany a photo.) Steven was in charge of recording sound bites on the frames, while I was in charge of photographing the TV character.

Baskin: This month we celebrate 1,500 weeks of artistic bliss. In many situations, conflict aversion can be harmful, but for us it is fortuitous because we love and respect each other.

Davis: The only downside is, of course, our moods. We both get down about the struggles of being a working artist, from time to time. But in a way that, too, is also ideal because we understand what the other is going through and can encourage each other.

Hackett-Morgan: It’s wonderful to say, “I have a problem” (with a work in progress), and have someone I trust to give me instant feedback.

–Scott Dickensheets

Five excerpts from new Gene Simmons book* by Las Vegan Christina Vitagliano 1 2 4 5 “My hero is me. Why?

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stupid, can’t you speak

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Gene Simmons allowed his

as we know it. But neither is

English?’ Now all those

3

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what you do.”

bit the head off of

urinal cakes in bathrooms

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*Gene Simmons Is a Powerful and Attractive Man and Other Irrefutable Facts (Plume, $16)

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enough to think that

little kid who was told, ‘Hey,

people work for me.”

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“I’m not delusional

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M ay 2 has 0 1 5not been made. This o This is not intended to be an offer to sell nor a solicitation of offers to buy real estate in Ascaya by residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration DesertCompanion.com prohibited by law. Ascaya is a Nevada residential common interest community. All information, depictions, specifications, lot sizes, prices and amenities of Ascaya listed or referenced are preliminary and a by the developer at any time without notice. The actual terms and conditions of purchasing a lot at Ascaya are available through the Ascaya sales office.

ALL Things

people

profile

Megan Mejia Epilepsy awareness activist

I

t was 2 o’clock on New Year’s morning of 2013, and Megan Mejia — exhausted after spending a special Vegas night out with her parents — went to their room to say thanks and goodnight. It’s the last thing she recalls before she went into a grand mal seizure on their bedroom floor. “After that, the next thing I remember is I was being pushed into an ambulance. I was awake, but I couldn’t move. I couldn’t open my eyes. I couldn’t do anything at all.” Megan was diagnosed with juvenile myoclonic epilepsy. The most common form of epilepsy in teens, it’s characterized by three types of seizures that range from episodes of staring into space to full-body convulsions.

Seizures are triggered by stress or lack of sleep. The upside: the condition is manageable with medication, and it tends to get better over time.

But Megan, a high school freshman at the time, didn’t hear any of that. She heard this: Your dreams of being a marine biologist are over. Your love of volleyball must end. Your friends are going to abandon you. Megan decided to be completely open about her condition. “I wasn’t trying to get pity, but just to let my friends know in case something happens.” It didn’t exactly spark an inspiring moment of love and acceptance. “Ninety-nine percent of them left,” she says. “Some people left slowly, kind of inched away, some left 100 percent.

One friend left because they considered my condition taboo, and they didn’t want to be associated with me because I was apparently weird. Other people at school, they just sort of inched away because they

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were more afraid of what they didn’t know.

They didn’t want to seem offensive if they asked questions because they thought they would offend me. I became really angry and depressed, anxious and sad.”

Instagram account to promote epilepsy awareness. And then a rare opportunity came along to give her an even bigger podium. Medikidz, a health education company based in London, was holding a contest to find the star of the next comic book in its series. Megan entered by uploading a video and won. The result: “Medikidz Explain Living With Epilepsy,” a recently published comic book starring one Megan Mejia. (You can get one free at advancingepilepsycare.com). Since then, she’s also fielded offers to appear on national TV shows to talk about epilepsy awareness. “This whole year has been like a whirlwind coming my way, and I’m definitely grateful for it. It’s like a reward for getting through that first hard year.”

This is the inspiring part. Modern medicine and modern therapy did their part to put Megan’s epilepsy into perspective, but Megan discovered a powerful form of self-medication as well: social media. Instead of letting epilepsy isolate her, she used it connect with others who might be feeling as frightened and confused as she had been. With a series of simple YouTube videos, Megan discussed her diagnosis, her struggles and her progress. She repurposed her

She’s had to make compromises on her career goals and pastimes — she can’t become a marine biologist, and she had to drop out of volleyball — but her talent for inspiring others has opened up new prospects: teaching, public speaking, activism. Her message to other teens struggling with epilepsy: “It’s bad at first, I’m not going to sugarcoat it, but don’t sit in a puddle of self-pity. Set your sights on a goal. Get out there and do something.

Try to be happy.” Andrew Kiraly

P h oto g r a p h y b r e n t h o l m e s

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ALL Things

style

Mother lode No gift is too special (or sparkly or scented) when it comes to the most important woman in your life B y Ch r i s t i e M o e l l e r

Essential oils from Centifolia and Damascena roses give this perfume a floral delicacy with hints of pear and lychee. Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la Rose Eau de Parfum, $245, Neiman Marcus in the Fashion Show Mall

Geranium oil, Brazilian orange oil and tonka bean oil give this shower gel a delicious strawberry scent. LUSH Yummy Mummy shower gel, $9.95-$29.95, LUSH in the Fashion Show Mall and Downtown Summerlin

Saying it in person is priceless. Saying it in gold? Invaluable.

Tiffany hearts locket with “I Love You” in 18K rose gold, $875, with 18K rose gold chain, $225, Tiffany & Co. in the Forum Shops at Caesars, the Fashion Show Mall and The Shops at Crystals in Aria

This elegant journal adds a creative dimension to any wellness program, whether it’s tracking fitness goals or reflecting on personal growth. Living Well

by Chronicle Books, $16.95, Paper & Home, paperandhome.com

Remember: She carried you! Time to return the favor. Tory Burch Kerrington square tote, $295, Tory Burch in the Grand Canal Shoppes and the Forum Shops at Caesars

This rose-and-hyacinth candle comes in a reusable fuchsia-pink glass — an attractive decorative element all its own. Bond No. 9 Madison Square Park candle, $110, Saks Fifth Avenue in the Fashion Show Mall

For moms on the (literal) run. Tory Burch for Fitbit fret double-wrap bracelet, $175, Tory Burch in the Grand Canal Shoppes and the Forum Shops at Caesars

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Nothing outshines a mother’s love — but this necklace certainly comes close. SHY by Sydney Evan Love pendant bezel diamond necklace, $125, Neiman Marcus in the Fashion Show Mall

Talk about arm candy: This gingham-and-flower pattern adds an extra bloom of fun to the whimsical Swatch line. Swatch ROSES4U watch, $70, Swatch in the Forum Shops at Caesars

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ALL Things

open topic

Politics needs and ends of a single man, destined to wither once its patron rides into the sunset?

Some things never change

What happens to the Reid machine?

As Nevada’s most powerful pol readies his depature, state Democrats work to keep his winning streak alive B y S t e v e S e b e l i u s

T

here will never be another Sen. Harry Reid.

Not just the Sen. Harry Reid of television fame, the one who takes to the Senate floor to inveigh against the Koch Brothers, or Mitt Romney, or coal-energy producers, the one who travels to Nevada to call presidents and would-be presidents “losers.” But also the Sen. Harry Reid behind the scenes, the one who performs the decidedly unglamorous tasks of fundraising, assembling coalitions, recruiting candidates and finding, training and installing the right people in the right jobs so things come out his way on Election Day. That’s the Sen. Harry Reid who built the infamous Reid Machine of Nevada politics.

And in January 2017, both Harry Reids will be gone from the Senate, from the national scene and from the central locus of Nevada political power. The question is: Will the party, and the machine, that Reid built outlive him? Or was it custom-designed for the

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Insiders note that, at least in the very short term, the mechanism Reid put in place will still fire on all cylinders. He has committed to ensuring his successor is former Attorney General Catherine Cortez Masto, who is benefitting from his anointment from the start.

The people Reid has groomed for years will also be part of the 2016 election cycle.

They include Rebecca Lambe, the low-profile, high-powered consultant who is the machine’s Nevada captain; Zach Zaragoza, executive director of the Nevada State Democratic Party; former Reid chief of staff and press secretary Susan McCue; the prolific party spokesman Zack Hudson; and, of course, party chairwoman Roberta Lange.

Not only that, but Reid’s most valuable gift to the party and the machine — the February party caucus — will remain, ensuring Nevada gets plenty of attention from wouldbe presidential candidates of both parties, plenty of money for party organization and TV advertising, and an outsize role in helping to choose the next president.

But insiders agree that there won’t be a single person at the top of the machine. “You can’t replace Reid, for all sorts of reasons,” says Billy Vassiliadis, CEO of R&R Partners and longtime Democratic consultant. “It’s going to take a team to fill that gap.”

Who will be on that team? Certainly it includes U.S. Rep. Dina Titus, who with Reid’s departure will become the senior elected Democrat in the state, and who has faced off with the Reid machine a time or two. (She refused to back away in 2006 when Reid tried to anoint former Henderson Mayor Jim Gibson as the Democratic nominee for governor, and again in 2012 when he backed state Sen. Ruben Kihuen for the congressional seat Titus ran for and won.)

If Cortez Masto wins Reid’s seat, she’ll have a seat at the leadership table, as will the eventual winner of the Congressional District 4 race (Kihuen, once a Reid volunteer, has announced his intention to run, as has

ILLUSTRATION b r e n t h o l m e s

former Assemblywoman Lucy Flores). Legislative leaders will be part of the team, too.

“We have a lot of people who are involved in working to see it continue,” said one insider who spoke on condition of anonymity.

All for one, and one for one?

But the question persists: Does the Reid machine work only for Reid? After 1998, when he nearly lost his closest election ever to John Ensign, he moved to ensure he’d never have a brush with political death again. Since then, the Reid machine has seemingly waxed in years when the senator’s name appeared on the ballot (2004, 2010) and waned in years when it did not (2002, 2006, 2014). But it performed for President Barack Obama in 2008 and 2012, helping him boost registration and win the state twice.

Reid loyalists reject the idea that his party-building activities are primarily self-serving. They say his penchant for recruiting candidates for races large and small isn’t only about protecting himself from future challenges, but building a bench to perpetuate Democratic success.

(Think of Reid’s iron-fisted efforts to avoid a Democratic primary in the 2012 U.S. Senate primary, smoothing the way for Rep. Shelley Berkley.) And they insist the heart of his efforts is less about Reid himself and more about advancing the Democratic agenda.

They point to the network of former Reid staffers and volunteers who hold jobs here and across the country, whose efforts on hard-fought campaigns in Nevada prepared them to help elect Democrats everywhere.

And Reid didn’t become the leader he is overnight, either: He built the party slowly, with a painstaking, behind-the-scenes labor that doesn’t make headlines, but — eventually — wins elections. “It’s not the fun work,” one insider said.

Surely, there’s some truth to that; Reid engenders more hatred among Republicans than any other Silver State politician, owing mostly to his lightning-rod role as chief of the Senate Democrats. The animus increases by orders of magnitude as Reid’s machine delivers successive victories, not just on Election Day, but long before, in keeping more threatening candidates out

of his races (Jim Gibbons in 2004, or Sue Lowden in 2010) while ensuring only weak, flawed candidates remain to run (Richard Ziser in 2004, Sharron Angle in 2010).

But will Reid’s machine help Cortez Masto replace him next year, retake Congressional District 4 from Republican Cresent Hardy and return the Assembly to Democrats? That remains to be seen. But perhaps one of Reid’s gifts to his local party has been to show they can win in Nevada, ensuring national attention from donors and cementing its reputation as a battleground state.

Democrats: The next generation Vassiliadis says the machine, going into the future, will face new challenges.

Labor isn’t necessarily unified, with private-sector unions sometimes at odds with public-sector unions. And, as the 2014 election showed, Democrats can’t simply count on minorities and young voters to turn out without some tangible return on their votes.

Not only that, but modern politics increasingly resembles marketing, as political campaigns in the mold of Obama’s 2008 and 2012 efforts build relationships with voters the way companies do with customers.

The social media, scientific voter-targeting and technological advances of modern campaigns are things that new leaders will need to master if they’re to replicate Reid’s old-school successes.

So the next generation won’t just run the machine, Vassiliadis said. They’ll have to transform it for the 21st century. And they’ll have to retain blue-collar, working-class Democrats while also catering to minority and youth demographics. That’s going to take time, just as it did to build the machine in the first place.

“We can’t go back to winning because the other guy is bad,” Vassiliadis said. The party will have to recover the lost art of politics, giving voters a positive reason to head to the polls — without the winning argument that keeping Reid in office meant keeping the clout of the majority leader.

The Reid machine and the people who run it have a unique opportunity, Vassiliadis said. But it won’t be about replacing the man who built it. Because there will never be another Senator Harry Reid.

↘ MAY IS BETTER HEARING MONTH Hearing loss happens. In fact, it’s one of the most common health issues in the world, affecting nearly one in five Americans 12 years and older.

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TRAVEL

… and a splash of rafts. Where do you find such an array of adventure options? In your rebranded backyard now known as the Grand Circle B y Do n na M c Cro h a n R o s e n t h a l

P

hoenix. Albuquerque. Santa Fe. Aspen. Route 66. National parks and monuments, mountains and deserts and pine forests, caves and caverns, canyon country and stunning red rocks. Astounding gorges that stretch for miles. Formations that look like taped and tightly wound mummies swathed in vermilion, or like dollops of cinnamon gelato with streaks of cream — some massive beyond belief, others delicate beyond description.

I visit them often enough to imagine that I know the Great Southwest. But when someone told me that these cities and sights define the circumference of the “Grand Circle,” you could have knocked me over with a biscochito (that would be New Mexico’s official state cookie).

Tourism bureaus hit on the designation several years ago (check out grandcircle.org for a dizzying overview), embracing portions of Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, and Nevada by drawing a bull's-eye ring targeting much of the quintessential Southwest. Arguably, you find San Diego and Los Angeles in the Southwest, but not the imponderable scale and intense concentration of colors, geological marvels, and spectacular vistas that characterize the Grand Circle.

Where to start? Park that automobile — along with any linear, directional notions of north, south, east, west — and the idea of motoring from one motel to the next between diversions.

The Grand Circle isn’t a route through the Southwest, but rather a spotlight on it, and it encompasses a variety of travel methods and adventures. Whether you’re a railroad buff, a whitewater fiend or a devoted hiker, options abound for sampling the sights of the Grand Circle. Here’s just a sampling of what the circle has to offer.

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By Rail: On track for good times

A

mtrak’s California Zephyr and Southwest Chief connect Grand Circle locations, with the Zephyr covering the northern region (Provo, Green River, Grand Junction) and the Chief joining Williams Junction (the Grand Canyon), Flagstaff, Albuquerque, and Santa Fe (amtrak.com, 800-USARAIL). With your eyes on the scenery instead of the road, you can enjoy nature’s show undistracted.

Many visitors take their first bold step leaving Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport and boarding the adjacent surface light rail (valleymetro.org/metrolightrail) that carries them to the Arts and Cultural Districts and Downtown. If they want to check into a hotel before going farther, the Crowne Plaza and the Aloft sit across the street from the airport station. Trains also perform wonders for Albuquerque and Santa Fe, linking the two major population centers by means of the Rail Runner Express (riometro.org, 1-866-795-7245) through ancient pueblo land to Santa Fe’s Plaza, museums and galleries; invest less than $10 for a pleasant and visually rewarding roundtrip.

Excursion trains, a leisurely non-commuter version of rail, chug here and there through the Grand Circle — think spacious seating, rhythmic swaying, and the occasional hang-onto-your-beverage jostle. Sedona’s Verde Canyon Railroad winds through buttes, ravines and gatherings of wildlife; the

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TRAVEL

Quick tips what to know, how to go, and where to explore

The Rail Runner Express links Albuquerque and Santa Fe, zipping through ancient pueblo land to Santa Fe’s Plaza, museums, and galleries (riometro.org; 1-866-795-7245).

The Grand Canyon Railway adds comfort, luxury, and a choice of six classes of service, some with domed observation cars and, in the winter, the Polar Express (1-800-843-8724; thetrain.com).

figure on smoother air early in the morning.

Moab by moonlight The four-day, three-night Musical Raft Trip on the Colorado begins with the signature Grotto Concert, this year September 14-17 (moabmusicfest.org, 435-259-7003).

Lake Powell perks Houseboats are available for rent year-round (lakepowell.com; 888896-3829), and the ferry that runs April through October between the Halls Crossing and Bullfrog marinas cuts 130 road miles to 3.2 across the water (lakepowell.com/ ferry-service.aspx; 435-684-3088).

The peregrine falcon frequents the Lake Powell area. The crow-sized raptors can dive 200 mph straight down to seize their prey.

Expect “slickrock” When it’s dry, you can slide on it. When it’s wet, you can slip on it. Either can hurt.

Grand Canyon Camping Camping anywhere in the park other than North and South Rim developed campgrounds requires a permit issued by the Backcountry Information Center. (nps.gov/grca/ planyourvisit/backcountry-permit).

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Fly me a river: Above, boating on the Colorado is a must-do.

Right, the Grand Circle highlights the region's best and brightest sites. Opposite page: Arizona's Lake Powell

narrow-gauge, steam-operated Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad near Santa Fe transports passengers while imparting the atmosphere of the Old West; the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad to the old Silverton mining town affords a lovely escape into the Rockies; and the restored vintage cars of Grand Canyon Railway (thetrain.com, 1-800-843-8724) add comfort, luxury, and a choice of six classes of service, some with observation domes, to the 130 miles between Williams and the South Rim (with everything from mock hold-ups staged by pistol-packing mounted desperadoes to winter Polar Express journeys to storytelling, carols, hot chocolate, gifts, reindeer, Santa, and the “North Pole”). Williams preserves the nostalgia of Route 66 with its soda fountain, diners, and quirky lodgings.

At the opposite end of the expedition lies one of the oldest standing wooden train

depots in the United States.

By Water: Boating on Mars

W

riting about the Grand Canyon, professor, soldier, scientist, and explorer John Wesley Powell said, “The glories and the beauties of form, color, and sound unite … forms unrivaled even by the mountains, colors that vie with sunsets, and sounds that span the diapason from tempest to tinkling raindrop, from cataract to bubbling fountain.” Powell led the first recorded expedition through the canyon in 1869, by raft.

Rafting has come a long way since then,

p h ot o s c o u r t e s y a r i z o n a o f f i c e o f t o u r i s m

If you fly over the Grand Canyon,

ranging from “no-rapids” pontoon boat tours from Tusayan around Horseshoe Bend to Lee’s Ferry, all three in northern Arizona, to the considerably more ambitious itineraries of a week or more. To the east out of Bluff, Utah, rafting opportunities last from one to eight days on the Colorado and San Juan Rivers, with stops to see rock art, ruins, and animals. Moab in eastern Utah yields everything from white water thrills to the four-day, three-night Musical Raft Trip on the Colorado beginning with the signature Grotto Concert. This year’s Moab Music Festival of chamber music, jazz, and other concerts precedes it September 3-14

(moabmusicfest.org, 435-259-7003).

Less strenuous than white water, Lake Powell in Page, Arizona, offers calm warm water, sheer twisting canyons, inlets with beaches, almost surreal scenery, and 2,000 miles of shoreline — more than the Western coast of the continental United States. Rent a houseboat at the Antelope Point Marina (lakepowell.com; 888-896-3829) and laze into the ideal speeds of “slow” and “still”; hop onto a guided cruise; use the ferry that runs April through October between the Halls Crossing and Bullfrog marinas and cuts 130 road miles to 3.2 across the water; relax on a one-day float trip that starts be-

low the Glen Canyon Dam; scan the skies for peregrine falcons soaring above that dive 200-feet vertically to seize their prey; or eat at Latitude 37, the world’s largest floating restaurant. The Rainbow Bridge Cruise from Lake Powell Resort travels 100 miles round-trip to Forbidding Canyon, featuring a magnificent natural arch that Native American nations consider sacred.

Ride, slip, slide and fly

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eeps do a fine and famously hair-raising job of negotiating rough terrain.

Whether approaching the crimson and scarlet striated formations of Sedona in

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Art Festival OF HENDERSON

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the heart of Arizona, or scaling slivers of craggy earth not much wider than a four-wheeler in awe-inspiring Moab, they climb, buck over rocks, bump and bang to deliver a memorable bang for the buck.

When the temperature turns frosty, Aspen and Telluride in Colorado, and the northern sector of the Grand Circle, spill over with inviting slopes, snowboarding, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, skiing, and Steer factor: Watchmen, Court of the Patriarchs, Great ski resorts. Ziplines Mountain White Throne, and Angel’s Landing peaks have cropped up all biking the over, including at Zion of Zion National Park a little to the west of gateway to the Ponderosa Ranch Re- Grand Canyon Bryce. Zion’s Emerald Pools Trail suits all sort in Utah and over levels of experience, and its mile-long Riverside Walk beckons with little elevation treetops in Durango, Colorado (and, as you know, high over the heads of tourists change and a predominantly hard surface.

Or get yourself to the precarious on Fremont Street).

Strolling plays a role among modes of overlook at Horseshoe Bend, outside of locomotion throughout the Grand Circle, Page, Arizona, to see the Colorado Rivin plazas, museums, and certainly at Santa er curve majestically 1,000 feet below Fe’s many huge events such as July’s tra- (careful — no guardrails here!). Or seek ditional folk art Spanish Market (span- out the Grand Canyon’s innermost mysishcolonial.org), August’s 100,000-plus teries on bracing trails, but don’t attempt buyers and craftspeople Indian Market to reach the river and return in one day, (swaia.org), and September’s Labor Day and remember that backcountry camping weekend Fiestas de Santa Fe held annu- requires a permit (nps.gov).

For a mega-challenge, consider Novemally since 1712.

But — train, plane, raft, houseboat, jeep, ber’s Dunesday Xtreme team triathlon at snowboard, ski, zipline, stroll — inevitably the Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park near you will hike. On the one-mile Lava Flow Kanab, Utah (visitsouthernutah.com). Last Trail at Sunset Crater National Monument year’s involved running, sandboarding, northeast of Flagstaff in Arizona, get up and fat-biking through six miles of sand close and personal to solidified formerly “or snow” – warned organizers – “dependmolten magma. At Petrified Foring on the weather.” Participants est National Park, trek on short went by the name of “Dunatics.”

Taken as a whole, the entire maintained trails or through Hear Grand Circle exceeds the limits of backcountry among fossilized more How will any one vacation. Perhaps that’s logs that date to 225 million extended what the affiliated destinations had years ago. Descend by foot into drought the exquisitely chiseled flame-orin mind when they joined forces. affect the ange spires of Bryce Canyon in You’ll amble up, hungry and eager, Southwest? southwestern Utah on the Rim to an overwhelming buffet — only Hear a discussion Trail, Under-the-Rim Trail, and to realize that you can’t load everyNavajo Loop Trail, and mean- on “KNPR’s thing onto your plate at once. You’ll State of der at the bases of the towering have to keep coming back.

Nevada” at desert companion. com/hear more

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p h ot o c o u r t e s y a r i z o n a o f f i c e o f t o u r i s m

TRAVEL

Streetfest

LEISURE

Build it and they will bike Can mountain biking save the flagging fortunes of Beatty? Those behind the push see a new kind of gold in them hills B y Vern Hee

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or Valentine’s Day, Brent Hart surprised his wife. Not with flowers or a romantic dinner. He took her to the town of Beatty, handed her a pick and told her to start swinging. They were going to build mountain bike trails.

“We’re used to being active and outside, but physical labor was a different thing,” Brent Hart says. “We were busting through rock with a pick and the shoveling was tough.”

“I remember my friends asking us, ‘What did Brent get you into?’” Rachel recalls.

“The trip was just remarkable, but also a lot of hard work.” The avid mountain bikers cut about a mile of a trail called Dynamite, and the way Rachel talks about it with such fondness, Dynamite sounds less like a mountain bike trail than a good friend — okay, maybe a good, sometimes difficult friend. “A rider has to have some lungs and muscles for Dynamite, so maybe it’s intermediate in difficulty,” she says.

It’s not just anyone who can convince a couple to spend their Valentine’s Day hacking trails from the dirt and rock.

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Either ore: Beatty hopes to strike it rich with biking.

The Harts were there as guests of David Spicer, a rancher, quarry owner and lifelong Beatty resident. Spicer is also a mountain biker. But his passion for making trails isn’t just about mountain biking. It also stems from his keen concern about Beatty’s troubled economy. The former gold-mining town about 100 miles northwest of Las Vegas has been in decline since Barrick Gold closed its last gold mine in 1998. But once again, the town is turning for solutions to the mountains that surround the town — the perfect terrain for attracting hikers, biker and campers.

Spicer is leading the charge to reinvent

Beatty as a mountain biking and outdoor adventure destination.

“Mountain bike revenue has been seen in many towns and states throughout the world to generate millions of dollars per year per community,” says Spicer. “I believe that within a five-year time frame, we could significantly increase our taxable revenue base.”

Spicer is no stranger to leveraging the craze for destination recreation and high-adrenaline sports events. He helped establish a nine-year series of Motorcycle Racing Association of Nevada events in Beatty, which ran through 2009. In 2012

P h oto g r a p h c h r i sto p h e r s m i t h

and 2013, he brought Tough Mudder to the area, hosting the mud-drenched, military-style obstacle run on his ranch just outside of town. By Spicer’s count, the two sold-out Tough Mudders brought a total of 14,000 people to town. The “Best in the Desert” off-road racing series also comes annually to Beatty with the help of Spicer.

He’s also formed an organization, Saving Toads thru Off-Road Racing, Ranching and Mining in the Oasis Valley (STORMOV), to explore the full potential of Beatty as a mountain-biking community. His goal: 300 new trails designated for mountain biking and hiking.

Spicer’s group recently brought in the International Mountain Biking Association to study whether his plan would work. Patrick Kell, the Southwest Regional Director of the IMBA, was part of the team on the study. He gives Beatty a big thumbs up.

“Beatty has really easy access to Las Vegas, which is a large metropolitan area with lots of residents and visitors and it’s really easy for Vegas people to get to Beatty,” Kell said. “They just hop on the 95 north. The ease of access is the main thing.

We also have the vast wealth of BLM land available, which surrounds the entire town. So you have all this land to work on where you can design great mountain bike trails.”

And the proximity to Death Valley National Park, he says, only adds to the plus column.

“Their conclusion was a resounding yes for this area being a success,” Spicer says. “The only question they asked was if the town was ready for what we were bringing.”

Adrenaline gold rush

T

hen again, the question might be whether Beatty can afford not to be ready. Bolstered by big mining companies that flocked to the area from the 1960s to the 1980s, Beatty’s economy was at a high point well into the ’90s. A new mine had opened in 1988, and by 1990, the town had grown to 2,000 people, with half the population working at the mine. Because of those big mining companies, Beatty was “spared the boom and bust economy that

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characterizes so many other rural west communities,” says local historian Robert McCracken.

But not for long. The mine closed in 1998, and the town’s been in slow but steady economic decline since. In 2014, Beatty’s only bank closed because the town was not generating enough retail income.

“Beatty’s economic position is getting worse, slowly deteriorating with county shortfalls, businesses leaving, and potential projects on hold due to BLM permitting delays,” Spicer says. There’s still mining in Beatty — one company is doing exploratory drilling in hopes of kick-starting the town’s fortunes — but it’s not something to depend on.

But what makes anyone think Beatty

can reinvent itself as a mountain biking destination? Spicer believes if he builds the trails, the bikers will come — and trails are the number one attraction for avid bikers such as Brent Hart.

“If they can get the trails built and make it fun and interesting, then there will be a draw,” says Hart. “A guy like me is looking for mileage. So the fact that he wants to build 300 miles, that is very attractive to me.”

But it’ll take more than nice views and whoop-de-doos to give Beatty the makeover it seems to need. Hart observes that Beatty isn’t exactly a granola mecca.

“Mountain bikers like to drink in trendy coffee places and eat burritos,” he says.

“After a hard ride, they like to drink good beer in breweries and relax next to a fire.

But it’ll take more than nice views and whoopde-doos to give Beatty the makeover it seems to need so badly. In other words, this initiative isn’t just growing a new industry; it requires a huge shift in the town's business and culture.

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A hotel with a good-sized pool, too, would be nice.” Oh, and one with bike storage and, ideally, bike-cleaning, too. Hart says mountain-bike culture demands places that are into “clean living” — quiet spaces, smoke-free environs. And, of course, a good bike shop.

At the moment, Beatty has gorgeous mountains and desert, loads of small-town charm, but it’s skimpy in the amenities department. And even beyond mere amenities, destination travel is about the entire lifestyle experience.

“It’s about an attitude,” says Cimarron Chacon, owner of Gro Promotions, a trail development firm Spicer hired to design the trails and work with the BLM. Chacon worked with the BLM for nine years and designed the majority of the mountain biking trails in and around St. George, Utah, where she now lives. “First and foremost, mountain bikers ride for the experience, not the end destination — as in hiking to the top of a mountain. Mountain biking is physical, mental and social, so when designing a great system you have to keep all three in mind.” In other words, this initiative isn’t just growing a new industry; it

D a v i d S p i c e r : C h r i s t o p h e r S M i t h ; RI D ER S : R i c h a r d S t e p h e n s

LEISURE

YOU HAVE A CHOICE.

Trail blazers: Left, David Spicer overlooks the land where he envisions the trails.

Below, left and right, Rachel Hart and other riders test out some of the routes.

A long trail ahead

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requires a huge shift in Beatty’s business and culture.

But, she says, the town does have a good start: a mix of unique restaurants, interesting landscapes, rich history and weather that’s like a slightly milder version of Vegas’. It is also within 90 miles of an international airport and a major metropolitan hub. The biggest obstacle: money.

“There are huge costs for designing, permitting, trail construction, trail head construction, signage, and more,” she says.

f Beatty succeeds in its plan, it’ll join an honor roll of other towns that managed to get out of the economic doldrums with a little rebranding and a lot of rebuilding.

Perhaps the closest case study is to the east in Fruita, Colorado. Fruita, with a population of 2,600, was bankrupt more than 20 years ago, when an organization that promotes mountain-bike destination development came to town, Over The Edge Sports.

Over The Edge started building the trails and saw a benefit within two to three years, says Troy Rarick, the company’s founder.

“I bought the corner building for $26,000, and mountain biking turned the empty downtown into a bustling downtown with two brewpubs, several restaurants and cool shops,” Rarick says.

Today the area of Grand Junction, which includes Fruita — now with a population north of 12,000 — draws about $42 million annually, according to one study. (And that corner building he bought is now worth about $400,000, he says.) And, again, mountain biking is just the first pebble in the pond; the ripples count just as much.

For instance, the first Fruita Fat Tire Festival in April of 1996 drew 350 people. That festival now sees 1,500 people annually.

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LEISURE That’s exactly the kind of ripple effect Spicer and others want to see in their town. “We want multiple events going on,” Spicer says. “Not just mountain biking events. I can see us attracting runners too, for the trails will be for hiking and horseback riding. We want to be the center, the epicenter in Southern Nye County.”

The people of Beatty have a lot of work ahead of them. Much of the process and plans for the area were just released to the public late last year and early this year, so the whole idea is just sinking in. But it’s already generating excitement. Beatty businesses like the El Portal Motel are ready to get down to work.

“I’m already planning on building bike storage for our place to make the property more bike-friendly,” says Aaron Johnson, owner of the El Portal. “I know we have looked into other hotels that have done similar things.”

During a presentation in January, Carl Olson, a strong supporter of trail development in town, was pleased with the Spicer plan. Olson is the caretaker of Rhyolite, a ghost town that hosts a celebrated outdoor sculpture garden just three miles west of the Beatty.

“I liked the way it was presented to the town and the way they would interlock trails and bring them out to Rhyolite and past the train station,” he said at the presentation. “It’s a great idea. I think this is a good thing for the town.”

In the meantime, work continues.

Spicer’s organization has already started the beginning mapping process and is working with the BLM to put together public land access and recreational trails.

Barrick Gold Corporation donated money to do the first 25 miles of design, mapping and surveying. And when those trails are built, they’ll aim to be world-class, says

Chacon of Gro Promotions — constructed by hand, tailored for different rider skill levels, and rated for physical exertion and technical ability.

Spicer isn’t waiting around for the red tape to cut itself. He’s already started building the portion of the trails that are on his property, since it doesn’t require a BLM permitting process; eventually, though, the trails will go onto BLM land and perhaps even Death Valley National Park.

And he probably wouldn’t turn away any biking aficionados who want to help and know how to handle a pick and shovel. The Harts spent a grueling half-day building the Dynamite trail. The sense of satisfaction was nice, but getting a sneak preview of a possible new, revitalized Beatty was even better.

“We helped with a good mile,” says Rachel Hart. “And then we got to test out the corners with our bikes.”

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Music

Real and raw That’s just how pain-haunted rocker Shelley Beth Miller — beloved by bikers from here to Sturgis — likes it B y Lonn M. Friend

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even immaculate, custom-built choppers stand proud near the entrance of Valhalla Cycles, located at the northern tip of town, across from the Las Vegas Speedway. The racetrack is silent, but there’s a beautiful noise coming from inside the shop — not emanating from a vintage Harley but from the pipes of a badass balladeer named Shelley Beth Miller. She’s been booked by Valhalla to entertain a few dozen special guests for its grand opening today.

She and her man, Jeff Johnson, set up a pair of portable Mackie speakers, a barstool, a microphone inside a cigar box that she stomps on with her right foot, and her three guitars — a vintage acoustic with a steel slide, a classic silver-plated Dobro and a Hee Haw banjo. “Hey, how’s it going? I’m Shelley,” she smiles. “Gonna sing a few songs for you if that’s okay?” Before any of the bandana-wearing patrons can formulate a response, the striking 44-yearold Detroit native is firing on all cylinders.

Jaws munching dogs and chips fall open in unison, taken joyfully aback by her Johnny Cash/Bonnie Raitt hybrid.

“The ringleader now is just a dead ringer but his spirit lives forever/I can hear the crowd singing, he was a galloping stallion and exhausted bull/When he reached the Grand Canyon, I could hear the echo/Only the strong survive/You better keep your head alive, oh yeah!”

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On the concrete floor where they transform rusted relics into six-figure road rockets, Shelley wails the stark verse through clenched eyes like she was performing to a packed house at the Pearl. Tearing up the track (inspired by a late friend named Alex “who always had my back”), her calloused fingers strum hard chords as her smoky, Joplin-like voice hypnotizes the easy riders.

When she concludes her 70-minute set, the crowd hoots and hollers, every man woman and child in the room convinced that this

City beat: Singer and guitarist Shelley Beth Miller takes it to the streets.

strange creature who rolled in from the desert is most certainly a survivor.

“I grew up near Seven and Woodward, south of Eminem’s 8 Mile,” she recalls.

“Tough multi-racial streets where gangs, pimps and prostitutes ran the night. I was pumping iron and learning karate when I was 14. Couldn’t walk down the street without getting yelled at. I got kicked out of Hazel Park High ’cause they found out my parents were using an address that wasn’t

P h oto g r a p h y AA R O N M AY E S

ours so I wouldn’t have to go to Pershing High, which was the worst school on the face of the Earth — had to walk through a metal detector to get to class.”

The biker community knows and loves Shelley. She’s played Sturgis and other two-wheel festivals, been written up in motorcycle mags like Backstreet Choppers and cultivated a local following doing bike nights at Hooters when she first moved to Las Vegas in 2006. She moonlit her music at clubs around the valley, such as Mr. D’s, Sand Dollar, the old Cellar on Sahara, Pandora’s Box, Henderson Harley Davidson and, more recently, Hogs & Heifers (“Hogs is like family to me”) and Bar & Bistro.

“Shelley is the love child of Detroit rock and Texas tone,” observes Seth Yudof, founder of UD Factory, a Vegas-based management company whose clients include Blues Traveler and Plain White Tees.

“She captures the raw perspective of living and working in Las Vegas rather than the typical glitz-and-glam tourist experience.”

So how did she get here, you ask? “I was in California working heating and cooling, painting and drywall,” she says. “My friend calls me from Vegas with a job opportunity, to work on the new Steve Wynn property, Encore. Worked on that palace from the ground up. Painting and wood-finishing were my main responsibility. Paid my rent while I picked up bar gigs around town.

I’m good at construction, but my true passion is music. I’d be dead without it.”

With broken-hearted ballads aplenty, her catalog caters to a self-confessed lifelong trouble with relationships. “Men are intimidated by my strength,” she laments, tongue in cheek. “I always pick the wrong guys. Why? Because I know it won’t last, and there’s always a good song at the end.

Got one called, ‘Good from Afar, Far from Good,’ and another titled, ‘Hit the Devil with a Shovel and Dropped Him a Level.’

My roots stem from rejection and pain, yet I find myself genuinely happy for the most part. I am a rough-around-the-edges kind of girl who likes to keep it real and raw.”

When it comes to mining the heart and soul for creative cues, Shelley needs look no further than family, where incidentally, rests her greatest pain and challenge.

“My parents were born in the South.

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Music

My dad, Samuel Lee, was in a blues band, played guitar and harmonica; he met my mom at a gig. She was a singer who came to see him play. Dad was a janitor for General Motors where he worked for 30 years. My brother Marty taught me how to work on bikes and cars. He’s been in prison since 1984. Wrote a few songs about him.”

According to Shelley, Marty was with a guy who was hired by someone else to break into a house and steal jewelry. In the process, a murder was committed. “He was part of the crime,” she admits, “but he was not there to kill anyone.”

Marty Miller got life. His little sister believes he’ll someday gain his release through newly discovered forensic evidence.

“My brother is the most positive person I know,” she says. “I see him when I’m in Michigan. He crochets for the homeless, is always positive and never asks anyone for anything except perhaps to mail something for him. He researches stuff for me, how to get my songs out there. I adore him and his strength of conviction.”

Marty’s voiceover, taken from a phone call he made from prison, opens one of Shelley’s most powerful tracks, “Marked for Life.” She asked him to simply riff on his state of mind: There ain’t no second chance, he tells her, so make it count. “Tears

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were running down the neck of my Fender 12-string the day I recorded that song and attached Marty’s words to the beginning, where they fit perfectly,” she adds. The song gets electric, heavy, angry, throttled by a wicked guitar solo and crushing beat.

Shelley delivers a throat-ripping vocal, exorcising her own frustration and agony.

Connecting her two towns, Detroit and Las Vegas, Shelley wrote a song called “Sin City,” and produced a homemade video that views like an alternative Chamber of Commerce meets What Happens in Vegas advertising clip. It’s a brutally honest ballad that celebrates our neon metropolis’ darker side as seen through the eyes of a perceptive transplant: “Rolling into town think you’re gonna lay it down, everybody wants to be your friend/Show you everything introduce your pretty face to recognize the one who just blew in. …” With a monstrous hook and incendiary vocal, this song would fit like a sticky leather glove right into hard-rock radio playlist. Watch the video on You Tube.

It’s low-budget brilliant.

While shooting scenes for the clip downtown, Shelley ran into former mayor Oscar Goodman, who almost made a cameo appearance. “I saw him at the Tap Room one night in 2011,” she recalls. “I go there for the awesome double-baked Cajun chicken

wings. Mr. Goodman was with his wife, eating pizza. I asked him if he’d like to do a shot where we’re both handing our bottles of water to the homeless on Fourth Street.

He agreed, but during the exact days I was editing the video, my father was dying from COPD in Michigan. I wanted to finish the clip, show my dad, while he was still coherent, that I could complete something important, so there was no time to get the Goodman shot. I’m hard on myself.”

That do-it-herself thing is just part of who she is. Miller has never had a booking agent, promoter or manager. With house-painting as her day job (construction work has “taken its toll on my body and influenced just how heavy I play due to back aches and my hands hurting all the time”), she says she’s content in her faith that her needs will be taken care of. Her robust songbook of blues-rock and boogie-woogie has obvious appeal beyond the cycle culture, and she’s excited for her upcoming “outlaw swamp” release, Autograph that Tombstone.

“I’ve slept next to the back side of falling down,” she laughs. And whatever happens, there’s always her 1960 Triumph Bonneville, which Shelley rebuilt herself. “I’m a rat-rod rust girl. Been riding since I was 9, ain’t got no intention of stopping. Long as I can kick it over is as long as I will ride.”

“I am living proof

that with a little help from my friends at Valley Hospital, old Vegas is alive and well.” ~ Ron O’Neal, stroke survivor

I’m Living Proof Inpatient stroke rehabilitation can help you regain your independence.

Ron O’Neal loves to entertain people. He’s been doing it for 38 years as the Director of Entertainment at a local casino.

When he had a stroke, he was afraid his life would never be the same.

He called 9-1-1 when he noticed changes in his sight, weakness in his legs and slurred speech. He was taken to the Certified Advanced Primary Stroke Center at Summerlin Hospital. When he needed inpatient rehabilitation, he chose Valley Hospital Medical Center.

“Rehabilitation is the kind of thing you don’t think about until you need it. When I needed it, Valley Hospital was there for me. What the therapists do is fantastic.

Each day I got stronger and now my life is back to the way it used to be.”

Learn more about Valley Hospital and its inpatient rehabilitation program at www.valleyhospital.net/ron 620 Shadow Lane | Las Vegas, NV 89106 | 702-388-4000 Physicians are independent practitioners who are not employees or agents of Valley Hospital Medical Center. The hospital shall not be liable for actions or treatments provided by physicians. 150137

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For more information and to register now, please visit mgmresortsfoundation.org

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The Dish 52

05

15

eat this now 53 at first bite 56

Our c i ty's be st sp ots to eat & drink

Well bread: Andiron's bacon-wrapped matzoh balls

P hoto g ra p h y Christopher SMith

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Dining out

THE DISH

Little bit country Acclaimed sommelier Kirk Peterson’s extraordinary palate for wine has its origin in his unlikely rural roots

By Marisa Finetti

I

f there’s one advantage to growing up in Yerington, Kirk Peterson will tell you. He’ll even describe what Yerington tastes like: bright and fresh and mineral, evoking the rock outcroppings after a rain on his family’s ranch.

Today, Peterson is beverage director and certified sommelier at Batali & Bastianich Hospitality Group Las Vegas, and one of the most respected Italian wine specialists in town. But his rural roots are never far from his mind — or his palate.

Sitting at a linen-covered table inside Carnevino Italian Steakhouse, the slim Peterson, dressed in his Italian-style, slate-blue suit, sips black coffee and pokes gentle fun at his rural Nevada hometown as the “jewel of Lyon County.”

But it is indeed in Yerington where he developed a passion for food and wine — and the fine-tuned senses of smell and taste that go along with it. It certainly helps, too, that he grew up in what he calls a “food-obsessed” family.

“I didn’t realize this until I was in the second grade, when I’d have friends over and my dad would offer a snack,” says Peterson, 39. “Out would come pickled herring, hard, aged cheeses, Swedish crackers, smoked oysters. … I’d see the look on the other kids’ faces and they’d say, ‘What the heck is that?’”

Foods that seemed exotic to them were the beginnings of Peterson’s culi-

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nary education. His parents, exceptional cooks, exposed him to a wide assortment of food. And, of course, choice of beverage was always an important consideration as well.

“When you have a cheeseburger, you have Coke because they go together, so when we’d have pasta, we would have wine,” he says. “As a little kid, it was a splash of wine and water, and then as I got older, the amount of water decreased.”

Yerington, a small ranching and farming town in the western elbow of Nevada, doesn’t seem like a place of culinary discovery. But it was to Peterson, who lived what he calls a “Norman Rockwell-like experience” there from 4 to 18. The rural life’s emphasis on simple pastimes and pleasures enlivened his senses, groomed

an appreciation for subtlety, and eventually helped him master the complex flavors of Italian wines. “I think I was very lucky in my upbringing in the way that I was exposed to flavors,” he says. “Sensory training is something as simple as smelling your food and noticing flavor.”

A taste of the big city

B

ut as Peterson grew up, Vegas beckoned, and he heeded the city’s call — not to party hard, but to mature.

“When I first came down to Las Vegas to attend (UNLV), the first thing I did was get a fake ID, because I realized pretty quickly that I was going to be forced to drink only water or soda anytime I would go out to get good food.” Peterson split time between film school and working on Hollywood

P h oto g r a p h y C h r i sto p h e r s m i t h

HOT PLATE

projects. All the while, he was broadening his palate and exploring food and wine.

“The entertainment industry pays you a drastic amount for a young person,” he says. “Some people bought race cars, others stuffed it up their nose. I ran to restaurants because I wanted to know what a bottle of white Burgundy tasted like.”

He tells a story about sitting in a Los Angeles restaurant with his “bad fake ID” and Discover card, and realizing, after randomly ordering a bottle of wine, he had made a pricey mistake.

“I wanted Montrachet because I knew I wanted it to smell and taste like the wet rocks out by my uncle’s ranch. That real mineral element doesn’t exist except in wines of a certain caliber,” he recalls. “But, instead of getting wet rocks, I got like this buttery-mold thing. It was a Meursault, which now I actually enjoy.” The experience set him back a thousand dollars, but fueled his fascination with wines.

After completing his degree, he taught and directed theater in Australia. Upon his return to the U.S., he had a short stint in music production while supplementing his income with waiter jobs. Finally, he was offered a promotion at Mon Ami Gabi to help manage their wine program.

“When I was offered that, I said, ‘I quit,’ because if I was truly going to work in wine, I wanted to work at a place that had a larger, more serious wine program.”

Confessions of a cork dork

C o f f e e R o a s t b e e f s a n d w i c h : L u ck y w e n z e l

B

y that time, he had already taken courses through the International Sommelier Guild, and upon opening of Carnevino, he was a waiter briefly, then was promoted to sommelier, head sommelier, wine director, and now beverage director for all four Las Vegas B&B Hospitality Group properties: Otto, B&B Ristorante, Carnevino, and B&B Burger and Beer.

While some sommeliers find Italy’s wines confounding, Peterson finds them compelling — and a source of intrigue and adventure. Master Sommelier Ira Harmon, trade development manager for J & P Fine Wine Division at Southern Wine & Spirits, has known Kirk for five years.

“I’ve watched Kirk grow over the years —

Eat this now!

Coffee roast beef sandwich at PublicUs

1126 Fremont St., 702-331-5500, publicuslv.com Coffee house, wine bar, gourmet lunch spot — the way PublicUs is trying to be all things to all people, you’d think it was running for president. It’s got my vote. The Fremont Street café that looks like the home of a chic hobbit (designer picnic tables, real trees) serves coffee-shop fare that’s both hearty and high-concept. PublicUs’ coffee roast beef sandwich hits that sweet spot: Coffee-brined roast beef, gooey brie and a horseradish slaw on house-baked ciabatta bread. The coffee barely registers as coffee, adding a touch of earth and aroma; the tang of horseradish is tempered by the creamy brie. The portion’s reasonable enough for lunch, but side it with a glass of red and, ta-da, a decadent dinner is served. Andrew Kiraly

Baked ricotta at Hearthstone

Red Rock Casino Resort & Spa, 702-797-7344, hearthstonelv.com Pop a Lactaid and dive bread-first into this heated pool of gooey cheese, courtesy of chef Brian Massie. Creamy ricotta and subtly sweet gouda are baked in the kitchen’s wood-fired oven and served with rustic slices of grilled bread for a brilliant starter that mimics a deconstructed grilled cheese. That’s not to say this is kid’s stuff. Spicy cracked black pepper and the perfume of truffle honey add character to the comfort dish — it’s better matched with a glass of wine than a side of tomato soup. Debbie Lee

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Dining out actually very quickly,” says Harmon.

Typically, wine lists are developed to offer a mix of highly regarded wines and recognizable brands for diners, but Harmon admires Peterson’s intrepid spirit in including rare treasures on B&B’s lists as well. For instance, Harmon recalls how Peterson picked up on an uncommon Sagrantino di Montefalco called “Sacrantino” carried by J&P as a beautiful steak wine. “The producer only makes about 90 cases, and Kirk has bought half their production for the last three years.”

Peterson’s lucky customers get more than a novel, memorable bottle. Peterson goes a step further. A self-confessed “cork dork,” he’ll even taste their wine with them and drop a few descriptors, if they request. He does tend to save his most colorful descriptors for his closest circle, however.

Devin Zendel, head sommelier at db

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Brasserie, who previously worked for Peterson at Carnevino, admires his way with words.

“He’s very intelligent, a touch eccentric, plus hilarious,” says Zendel. “He delivers some of the most entertaining wine descriptors I have ever heard, such as ‘koala bear’s asshole’ — I assume reflecting a eucalyptus component — or, while describing the rustic minerality of a great Nebbiolo, ‘as if you were sucking on a quarter you accidentally left in your favorite jeans and ran through the wash cycle, regardless of the fact you remembered to pull it out before hitting the dryer.’

Those are a few classics.” And yet: “On the floor he’s extremely polished, and is unquestionably one of the top Italian wine and food experts in Vegas, if not the entire West Coast.”

But such superlatives seem to interest

Peterson less than connecting with clients over a new bottle or old favorite. “When you really make a connection with a guest and find that wine that becomes a new favorite for them,” Peterson says, “that is very satisfying because you’ve had those a-ha! moments as well.” And the human element — the conviviality, the conversation — is as important as the wine. “When I see someone pull out his phone to look up the wine, I wonder to myself, ‘Ask it how it will go with your food.’”

The better option? Put the phone away and signal the sommelier. Who knows?

If you’re feeling adventurous, he may transport you to a wild and rocky, steepsloped vineyard at the base of an active volcano half way around the world. And if you’re really lucky, he may take you 375 miles north to Yerington, just to smell those rocks in the bracing minerality of a white Burgundy.

TRAGEDY HAPPENS EVERY DAY, AND EVERY DAY WE’RE THERE. WE INVITE YOU TO JOIN US IN HONORING EMERGENCY RESPONDERS IN OUR COMMUNITY WHO HAVE GONE ABOVE AND BEYOND IN PROVIDING COMPASSION ON TRAGIC SCENES. ...................................................................................................................................................

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Dining out

at FIRST Bite

Orders of magnitude

Oven range: Andiron's sea urchin toast, tomahawk chop, mac & cheese waffles, Madagascar vanilla bean cheesecake

The menu at the city’s newest steakhouse boldly traverses the globe — and pushes the boundaries on Las Vegas fine dining

U

pon my arrival at Andiron the work of a textile designer — it was a Steak & Sea, the new fine din- design motif that reappeared on the lining restaurant at Downtown ing of our handsome hardcover menus.

Summerlin, the first question Such attention to detail is exactly what I I had was not about the source would expect from Andiron’s restauraof its meat or the breadth of its wine list. teur, Elizabeth Blau. In the last two years, I wanted to know where our hostess her classed-up casual eateries (Honey Salt, bought her dress. Studying Made LV) have been welthe short, form-fitting floral come contributions to an Andiron number, I couldn’t decide if otherwise stale dining scene.

Steak & Sea she was wearing a designer Andiron is a different Downtown Summerlin garment or an off-the-rack animal, and perhaps what 1720 Festival knock-off.

Blau considers the crown Plaza Drive And then I realized it was a jewel in her neighborhood 702-685-8002 uniform. The bold rose print restaurant trifecta. It’s andironsteak.com that covered the young wombilled as an “homage to an from neck to knee wasn’t all things grilled, roasted, HOURS

shucked and seared,” which is just pretty prose for saying they make food. But that kind of vagueness is fine, since it allows Chef Kim Canteenwalla (Blau’s husband and partner) to develop and oversee a diverse menu that traverses the globe.

Order the sea urchin toast and make Thailand your point of departure. The funky orange blobs rest on a plank of white bread and are topped with shaved radishes for a picture-perfect starter. A squeeze of kaffir lime oil takes it over the top — I dragged every bite through the bright, verdant sauce.

Another option is to throw down with rabbis everywhere with a bowl of matzoh balls wrapped in Neuske’s bacon.

The golf ball-sized dumplings are slightly bland on their own, but a sinus-clearing horseradish crème fraîche adds the perfect zing. Skip the grass-fed steak tartare, though; the sinewy bits of tenderloin are okay when slathered on slices of garlicky grilled bread, but you’ll be

Daily 5-10p

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better off rationing your meat consumption for the main event.

The steakhouse, of course, is the core of their concept. Andiron offers nine cuts of beef that are charred over an apricot wood-burning grill. An eight-ounce ribeye cap — nicely crusted on the outside and a perfect medium rare within — is served with a flavorful Argentinian chimichurri sauce. However, it looks lonely on the plate. Comfort food enthusiasts should skip the standard sides (baked potato, creamed spinach) and supplement their steak with the mac and cheese waffle, which is exactly what it sounds like.

The savory wedges are piled high and served alongside a gravy boat brimming with Velveeta-like cheese sauce.

Vegetarians are granted their own section on the menu, and the dishes are designed with consideration for sophisticated palates. I sampled the Andiron Spicy Grains — an upscale take on Korean bibimbap, or mixed rice. Made with brown rice, quinoa, and market vegetables, it’s not exactly authentic, but the composition and flavors are more than satisfying for a meatless entrée. In my case, it also made up for an order of grilled and chopped vegetables, which is really nothing more than an ordinary (and slightly overdressed) side salad.

By the time you reach dessert, you’ll be back on familiar territory with old-fashioned American classics. I enjoyed the warm pecan carrot cake with bourbon cream cheese; it had just the right amount of sweetness, much of it provided by a pineapple and currant compote. But a Madagascar vanilla bean cheesecake with Cara Cara orange marmalade is the stuff of dreams. Its chiffon-like texture puts every other version to shame.

Make no mistake. Andiron may have donuts and tater tots on the menu, but they don’t come cheap. The bespoke uniforms, professional service and massive interior (courtesy of New York’s Design Bureaux, Inc.) are features you don’t find off the Strip, and the bill after my first visit reflects that. However, if anyone can command $200 for dinner in a suburban shopping mall, Blau and her team are in the best position to try.

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S P E C I AL ADV E R T I S I N G S E C T I O N

UTAH SOUTHERN

EXPLORING

From World-Class Theater, to Wholesome Cuisine, to the Great Outdoors—You’ll Find It All Here

J

ust a two-hour drive from the hectic streets of Las Vegas lies the scenic, tranquil landscape of Southern Utah. And although tranquil, it’s definitely not uneventful.

The multi-award-winning Utah Shakespeare Festival draws nearly 130,000 visitors each season with its first-class theater productions. The Tuacahn Amphitheatre, set amongst a striking backdrop of towering red cliffs, entertains crowds with musical productions and concerts performed under the stars.

And that’s only the beginning of the fun times to be had! Southern Utah is also home to the popular weeklong annual Plein Air Art Invitational, seven national parks, and a host of national and state forests, monuments and recreation spots.

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UTAH

EXPLORING

New Restaurant Celebrates a St. George Cafe Pioneer George’s Corner Restaurant & Pub in St. George, Utah, pays tribute to one of the city’s very first restaurants, the legendary Big Hand Café. Though more than 80 years separate the two establishments, they have many common bonds, the first of which is they share the same location: the northwest corner of St. George Boulevard and Main Street.

A few year’s ago, a new chapter for the Big Hand Café’s original families opened on that same corner. When Nicki Pace— the great-niece of the café’s founder and operator George Pace—and her husband, Randall Richards, owners of the nearby Painted Pony Restaurant, saw that the corner’s art gallery tenant had moved out, the couple and their business partner, John

George's Corner Restaurant & Pub Delaney, took over and renovated the spot.

Transforming it once again into a modern (air-cooled) restaurant and naming it George’s Corner in honor of the first restaurateur on the site, the establishment is filled with historical photos and descriptions of the Big Hand Café, its owners, visitors and employees who worked there over the years, as well as the growing downtown St. George.

The full circle of common bonds between the Big Hand Café and George’s Corner is rounded out by the fact that

Pace and Richards lease the land for their new venture from another of the Big Hand Café’s former owners, Anthony Atkin, whose daughter, Alice Atkin Steel, once worked as a waitress there. And, a few years after purchasing the café, Atkin and his partners hired George Pace to run it, where he remained until his retirement.

So if you’re hankering for a little piece of history—not to mention some great food, drinks and fun—stop in at George’s Corner to check out its Big Hand-adorned

A LIVE MUSICAL SPECTACULAR OF DISNEY THROUGH THE

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TUACAHN.ORG | (866) 321-4953

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S P E C I AL ADV E R T I S I N G S E C T I O N

walls. Who knows? ... you might even get to meet a waitress named Alice. George’s Corner is open seven days a week, from 7 a.m. to midnight.

Enjoy a Season of Broadway Musicals Under the Stars at Tuacahn Experience the wonder of “Broadway in the Desert” with the exciting musicals coming this summer to the acclaimed Tuacahn Amphitheatre in Southern Utah.

The 2015 season features something for everyone, including Beauty and the Beast, Sister Act and the premiere of Disney’s newest stage production, When You Wish.

Tuacahn is located next to the multicolored Snow Canyon State Park in the St. George, Utah, area—just two hours from Las Vegas. The amphitheatre is nestled beneath dramatic crimson cliffs, which provide a larger-than-life ambience for the storytelling taking place onstage.

Bring the children and grandchildren to watch the magical story of Beauty and the Beast come to life at Tuacahn as the Beast’s castle is re-created on the outdoor stage.

Discover if love can find its way through a nearly unbreakable curse.

Prepare to laugh, cry and experience every emotion in between during the Tuacahn presentation of Sister Act. The power of friendship shines in the hilarious story of Deloris Van Cartier, an aspiring singer whose life takes a surprising turn when she witnesses a crime, and the police hide her in a convent.

Get ready to wish upon a star at Tuacahn with Disney’s When You Wish. Travel into a little girl’s imagination on an enchanted journey through popular Disney classics, including The Jungle Book, Tangled, Mulan, Newsies, Hercules, Pocahontas and many others. This one-of-a-kind production will create lasting memories for all ages as it winds its way through Disney’s spectacular music library.

Experience world-class Broadway like never before under Tuachan’s starry sky. Reserve your seats now at Tuacahn.org or call the box office at (800) 746-9882 for more details.

November 2–8, 2015

• 24 Invited Artists • Free Daily Demonstrations • Peak Fall Colors in Zion • Free Evening Lectures • Paint Out & Sale • Public Wet Paint Exhibit & Sale • Proceeds Benefit Zion National Park

Plein Air Art

z i o n n at i o n a l pa r k

i n v i t a t i o n a l

MICHELLE CONDRAT, EVENING’S GLOW–ZION NATIONAL PARK (DETAIL), 2015

zion national park foundation www.zionpark.org 1-800-635-3959

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 offers two GREAT dining options 

UTAH

EXPLORING

Zion National Park Foundation Plein Air Art Invitational

Patio Dining "Best Restaurant..."

Painted Pony Restaurant

2 W. St. George Blvd. #22 St. George, Utah 84770 (435)634.1700 www.Painted-Pony.com

Casual Fine Dining | Contemporary American

CELEBRATING ART IN ZION NATIONAL PARK Seventh Annual Plein Air Art Event Set for Nov. 2-8

G

E O R G E‘ S

COR N E R Restaurant & Pub BREAKFAST | LUNCH | DINNER OPEN 7 DAYS/WEEK 7 A.M. - MIDNIGHT

George’s Corner Restaurant

2 W. St. George Blvd. #1 St. George, Utah 84770 (435) 216.7311 GeorgesCornerRestaurant.com “Best New Hot Spot” | Great American Food

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During the peak fall colors in Southwestern Utah, the Zion National Park Foundation will host the seventh annual Zion National Park Plein Air Art Invitational. The event, which will take place on Nov. 2-8, celebrates the role art has played in the creation and history of the park by hosting 24 fine landscape artists for a week of painting and teaching in the park.

Invited artists will paint plein air, while park visitors watch and interact. The event will feature daily painting demonstrations and evening lectures, as well as a paint-out and auction on Saturday that will cap off the weeklong celebration.

More than 150 paintings will go on sale at the Zion Human History Museum on Saturday and Sunday, Nov. 7-8. Event proceeds will benefit Zion National Park.

If you only can visit the park once this year, this is the ideal time to come. For more information visit zionpark.org or call 1-800-635-3959

This Season Marks Final Curtain Call for Festival’s Historic Theater The Utah Shakespeare Festival presents Tony Award-winning theater and much more in Cedar City, Utah. Every year, from June through October, the festival produces Shakespeare and other classics on three stages.

The 2015 season features four of Shakespeare’s classics—The Taming of the Shrew; Henry IV, Part 2; King Lear and The Two Gentlemen of Verona—as well as Sir Peter Shaffer’s drama Amadeus, the British comedy Charley’s Aunt, Rogers and Hammerstein’s popular musical South Pacific, and the literary classic Dracula.

S P E C I AL ADV E R T I S I N G S E C T I O N

Your

Festival Experience

Adams Shakespearean Theatre

This year marks the final season that festival productions will be performed in the historic Adams Shakespearean Theatre, as construction of a new Shakespearean theater will be complete in time for the start of the 2016 season.

The Engelstad Shakespeare Theatre will be housed in the new Beverley Taylor Sorenson Center for the Arts, along with the Eileen and Allen Anes Studio Theatre, artistic and production facilities, rehearsal and storage spaces, administrative offices and the Southern Utah Museum of Art. The 54th season of the Utah Shakespeare Festival runs June 25 to Oct. 31.

Founded in 1961, it is one of the oldest and largest Shakespearean festivals in North America. In addition to its theater productions, other festival activities include a free 30-minute frolic of song, dance and laughter called The Greenshow, orientations and seminars, classes, backstage tours, Repertory Magic, the

MAGIC CEDAR CIT Y

June 25 – Oct. 31, 2015 bard.org | #utahshakes | 800-PLAYTIX Photos, top to bottom: Kimberly Mellen (left), Max Robinson, and Eliza Allen in A Midsummer Night’s Dream, 2011; and the Adams Shakespeare Theatre Courtyard.

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Escalante Canyons ART FESTIVAL

UTAH

EXPLORING

The Painted Pony

S P E C I AL ADV E R T I S I N G S E C T I O N

* Everett Ruess Days * Millions of Acres of Inspiration: Escalante is located in the heart of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument between Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef National Parks.

Celebrating Twelve Years of Art Inspired by Place

SEPTEMBER

18-27, 2015

Plein Air Workshops & Art Sale & Competition Demonstrations Auction Sept 18-24 Sept 19-26 Sept 25-26 Arts & Crafts Fair Sept 25-26

Live Entertainment Sept 25-26

Speaker Series Sept 21-26

ESCALANTE, Utah (five-hour drive from Vegas)

www.escalantecanyonsartfestival.org

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New American Playwrights Project and a Shakespeare-in-the-Schools tour. A festival experience also can involve taking in the scenic wonder of Southern Utah; Cedar Ctiy is within a day’s drive of seven national parks, numerous national and state forests, monuments and recreation areas.

Tickets and more information about the Utah Shakespeare Festival can be obtained by calling (800) 752-9849 or by logging on to www.bard.org. #utahshakes

The Painted Pony Restaurant Celebrates 14 Years of Excellence This year marks The Painted Pony Restaurant’s 14th anniversary and over a decade of fine dining in St. George and Southern Utah. Owned by husband-andwife team Randall Richards and Nicki Pace, The Painted Pony’s menu and atmosphere celebrate the mix of classic dining favorites and culinary creativity that come together in contemporary American dining.

As the executive chef, Richards has guided The Painted Pony for most of its lifespan, leaving Springdale, Utah, and the popular Bit and Spur restaurant in 2001 to run the kitchen. He and Pace purchased the restaurant in 2004, and the two have

crafted The Painted Pony to reflect their appreciation of the natural environment and the organic, high-quality foods therein.

The Painted Pony’s menu changes seasonally—driven by Richard’s ingredients-first philosophy—and incorporates elements from local growers, organic meat producers and from his own 1-acre garden that he cultivates for the restaurant.

To further that endeavor, Pace established and manages a weekly farmers market that runs each year from May to October in the restaurant’s shared courtyard. The market was created to help local growers connect with a greater market by bringing them together centrally with the broader community. The farmers market is now in its fourth year and draws growers from more than 50 miles away.

As the restaurant enters its 14th year of operation, it celebrates achieving creative, quality hallmarks and staying true to its goal of making contemporary American cuisine with fresh, locally grown ingredients. The numerous awards lining its walls reflect this accomplishment: Best Restaurant in Southern Utah by Salt Lake Magazine, Distinguished Restaurants of North America’s (DiRoNa) Award of Excellence, Wine Spectator magazine’s Award of Excellence, an “excellent” rating from the Zagat Survey and much more. Painted Pony is open seven days a week, from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

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Compass points

We sent writers on trips to the north, east, south and west.

What’d they find? That the road not taken can be pretty fun, too.

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North

Pioche , NV Breathtaking nature and a haunting past await (just pack a lunch)

W

e were smart to pick up sandwiches at Bronze

town’s “finest and only restaurant,” the Historic Silver

Café before leaving Las Vegas on our way to Pi-

Café, would be closing at 8 p.m. That, we found out later,

oche. Otherwise, my husband and I would have

meant we’d need to hurry over before they ran out of

sat at a picnic table in Kershaw-Ryan State Park outside

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heated-up Costco cheese pizzas.

Caliente, eating bags of chips from one of the few truck

No matter. The town’s rich history more than made up

stops on the 93 as we took in the wild roses cascading

for its lack of fine cuisine. We dropped our bags in the

down the canyon wall. Instead, we had a delicious picnic

huge Bears Den suite and hustled down the hill to see

to enjoy in the lush riparian park.

the sun set behind Boot Hill cemetery, where boards are

This is the trip north on Nevada’s Great Basin High-

crudely chiseled with Wild West epitaphs, such as: “Shot

way in a nutshell: stunning surroundings; rudimentary

by a coward as he worked his claim. No one even knew

amenities. I first noticed it in the primitive campgrounds

his name.” The discovery of silver in the hills above town

of Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge 87 miles north

in the 1860s birthed a community marked by crime and

of Vegas, where we stopped to stretch our legs with

violence. In the 1870s, Pioche’s 10,000 dwellers had

a stroll around Upper Pahranagat Lake. Standing mo-

140 saloons and four bordellos to choose from. Today,

tionless on the levee that crosses the water, we heard

you could lose a couple days on a walking tour of the

nothing for a moment but wild birds and — what was

place, which boasts more than 30 stops, including the

that? — a school of 2-foot-long carp breaking the sur-

so-called “Million-Dollar Courthouse” (its price inflated

face for bugs. An hour later, it was Caliente and Ker-

by political corruption), the Oddfellows Lodge (formerly

shaw-Ryan. Sure, the town has two diners, the Knotty

the town’s first hardware store) and the Pioche Record

Pine and Brandin’ Iron, plus Pioneer Pizza (which has

(Nevada’s second-oldest continually printed weekly

been closed on both my last trips through), but they’re

newspaper), all dating back to the 1870s.

not exactly foodie-friendly and are downright hostile

Alas, no spirits visited us in our reputedly haunted hotel.

to vegetarians. Still, Caliente was a culinary destination

Maybe we slept too well. It had, after all, been a long day

compared to Pioche. As we checked in at the Overland

in the fresh air, contemplating the ghosts of mining’s past.

Hotel, co-owner Ron Mortenson informed us that the

Heidi Kyser

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TECOPa , CA A place for clear skies, tasty quinoa, no wi-fi — and a spiritual recharge

W

Go here, do this tretch your legs at S Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. fws. gov/refuge/pahranagat icnic at Kershaw-Ryan P State Park. 775-7263564, parks.nv.gov ike at Cathedral H Gorge State Park. 775728-4460, parks.nv.gov tay at the Overland S Hotel. 775-962-5895, overlandhotelnv.com at at the Historic Silver E Café, 888-344-6922. silvercafeandbakery.com o the old mining D town’s walking tour with 30-plus stops. lincolncountynevada.com o fishing at Spring ValG ley State Park, 20 miles east of Pioche. 775-9625102, parks.nv.gov

hen Vegas gets me down, I seek refuge in the desert. One of my favorite getaways is the tiny outpost of Tecopa, a dusty cluster of eccentrics and old spa resorts baking peacefully in a barren moonscape valley just over the California state line outside Pahrump.

In its heyday, Tecopa was a swanky destination — a natural hot spring bubbles up from the earth beneath the town, its waters regarded among the world’s finest in terms of mineral content. These days it’s more like a sunbaked collection of weathered cinder block cabins and shaggy tamarisk trees huddled around a few indoor soaking pools, popular with retirees and New Agers in search of a miracle cure for a litany of ailments.

But even if you’re not into the healing powers of muck, Tecopa is a fantastic retreat. There is no cell reception or wi-fi, so you can spend your time in utter solitude, alone with just your thoughts and a few naked hippies, shrouded in profound stillness.

On many of my visits, I’ve gotten a room at one of the resorts — but these aren’t “resorts” as defined by MGM. Ancient cabins, no TVs, groaning swamp coolers — nary a nightclub or celebrity chef in sight. Fantastic!

But as atmospheric as the resorts are, sometimes I prefer to wallow in the mud, under the stars. So on my last visit, I bypassed the town entirely and continued into the valley, where a hot-spring pond languishes in a marshy lowland, an unexpected patch of green. The water is hot — around 110 degrees — and the bottom of the pond is coated with deliciously thick, gooey mud that, if you’re so inclined, can be plastered all over oneself to magnificent effect.

Some friends and I rolled in around sunset, laid out a blanket at the edge of the pond, and spent the evening alternating between soaking in the water and laying out in the warm desert night, swimming in the vast sea of stars. Tecopa has minimal light pollution, and the stargazing is incredible.

All my senses were engaged — the warm caress of the night air, the sound of frogs, the scent of the springtime desert. And let us not forget taste, also indulged on our way through Tecopa, at the only restaurant in town — the inexplicably amazing Pastel’s Bistro, where we gorged on Brazilian black beans, avocado and quinoa. Quinoa in the middle of nowhere?

Why not?! That’s the magic of Tecopa — unexpected luxuries juxtaposed against the harsh desert. Not the Four Seasons, but it’s what you make of it. For me, it’s the perfect spiritual recharge. Sarah Jane Woodall

Go here, do this Tecopa Hot Springs Resort offers both camping and lodging options. tecopahotsprings.org

For other lodging options, check out the offerings in nearby Shoshone or slightly less nearby Pahrump. tripadvisor.com

The springs are segregated into male and female facilities, and nude bathing is required. tecopahotsprings. org

A tasty day trip can be made from a visit to the famed China Ranch Date Farm, an oasis in the Mojave. chinaranch.com

For quirky history, the caves at Dublin Gulch — carved into cliffs by early settlers — are 20 minutes away. ghosttowns.com

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EAST

Flagstaff, AZ a n d W i l li a m s , to o See (the night skies) and be seen (by wary wolves) in a land of the real

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n this blustery Saturday afternoon, it seems that

as novel as you might imagine: Trundling along in your

Williams, Arizona has reached a tipping point. Half

car at school-zone speed, you get to watch black bears,

the businesses lining its famed main drag, a snippet

white bison and even Arctic wolves do their thing. Their

of historic Route 66, are cafés, bars, restaurants or retail

thing, in this case, is placidly munching on treats liberally

stores. The other half are souvenir shops selling Route 66

and strategically strewn around the road. The animals

tchotchkes. This creeping self-referentiality does not go

move around more like Walmart shoppers than Wild

unnoticed by locals, who, from their stools at the sleepy

Kingdom subjects, but they still hold a magnetic fasci-

Sultana Bar, watch us tourists with bemusement, watch as

nation, even (how Walmart of me) when safely glimpsed

their small island of the real is surrounded by a rising tide

from a side-view mirror. And every once in a while, as

of the irreal. But there’s still plenty of real to be had: an

though accidentally rousing from an engineered stupor,

eye-opening double espresso at Cafe 326, a smartphone

a bear or wolf looks through your car window, through

photo session at the idle Williams train.

your eyeballs, down your optic nerve and right into the

Maybe that thirst for the real is what led us to Bear-

startled oyster that is your caveman brain on sudden

izona, a drive-through zoo at the tail end of town. It’s

alert. Whoa. Let’s just take our foot off the brake and

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Go here, do this Bearizona offers a beginner-level drivethrough zoo and walking tours, perfect for introducing kids to large, furry things. bearizona.com

A Flagstaff institution, Macy’s European Coffee House & Bakery serves strong coffee and decadent pastries (including many vegan options). macyscoffee.net

Principled carnivores must eat at Diablo Burger — locally sourced, organic beef patties served on English muffins. diabloburger.com

move along, shall we? ... This is a safari for those with low fear thresholds.

Starlight Pines Bed & Breakfast is a big, rambling house filled with antiques and old medical curios. starlightpinesbb.com

Sited in a historic 1911 home built from volcanic rock, Josephine’s Modern American Bistro serves upscale comfort food. josephinesrestaurant.com

No trip to Flagstaff is complete without a visit to the Lowell Observatory. Seriously; in that recommendation is

Flagstaff is a launch pad for many Southwest activities,

a recognition that Flagstaff stewards its dark skies like we

from camping to rock-climbing, but lazy weekend warriors

do water. I’m a sucker for celestial bodies, and on this Sat-

(guilty) can stick around the city’s nougat center and still

urday night, the observatory had various telescopes and

find plenty to do. The pleasure is in Flagstaff’s small-scale,

observing stations pointed at various quadrants of space.

tilt-shift urbanity: a decadent steak-and-martini dinner at

The smeared bruise of the Orion Nebula, a glimpse of

Josephine’s, lingering over coffee and pastry at Macy’s

streaky Jupiter through one of the secondary observatory

to watch the beardster vagabonds and REI parents filter

scopes, a close-up of the cracked porcelain plate of the

through. For numerous reasons, their downtown seems to

moon. “That’s Tycho, right?” said one stargazer, fannishly

maintain a certain abiding, unfussy equilibrium of quaint-

name-checking one of the moon’s craters as he squinted

ness. It’s remarkable, and refreshing, after you’re far from

into the eyepiece. This seems to be the thing that locals

what sometimes seems, at its worst moments, to be Vegas’

and dedicated starhounds do on Saturday nights. Nerdy,

overheated Potemkin startup version of Downtown.

real and very cool. Andrew Kiraly

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SOUTH

NEEDLES, CA A town battered by time, but surrounded by quiet natural treasures

T

hough it’s only 100 miles to the south, the Colorado River town of Needles, California, doesn’t seem to be on our travel radar. “Why?” was the common response when I told friends I was headed there for a weekend. Answer: I hadn’t been in a few years and wanted to see if I was missing anything.

Headed out on a Friday evening, I beelined straight down U.S. 95, arriving in the airport-casino hamlet of Cal-Nev-Ari, the southernmost sliver of Nevada, just as twilight winked out in the Mojave Desert. I had booked a couple of nights at the Avi Resort & Casino; while Needles is lined with a dozen hotels along I-40, most are of the budget variety, catering to road-worn truckers and weary drivers between Los Angeles and Albuquerque.

The most luxurious accommodations — rooms at the Best Western Colorado River Inn — were booked for a classic car jamboree. Plus, the Fort Mojave tribe-owned Avi Resort has attractive weekend packages, restaurants, a huge pool area and live music at night.

In the morning I headed to Needles for a photo safari. Frankly, the past few decades have been tough on the town. Many of its oldest buildings sit derelict. Even the large and refurbished El Garces Hotel, once a graceful Harvey House gem, awaits tenants. But what does remain is plenty of human history.

Walking along downtown sidewalks, I looked for local color through the lens of my Canon. In the town center, a tall sun- and water-themed pillar rises brightly above the blacktop of Broadway Street. Across from the train station,

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a Mexican restaurant’s hand-painted façade brings a tropical splash to an otherwise khaki-hued block. Nearly everything — including this monument and taco shop — is emblazoned with Route 66 insignia.

Needles was an important stopover in the years when “The Mother Road” was filled with people migrating to the West Coast, and the burg still trades in these glory days, as epitomized by a vintage Texaco station. It no longer pumps gas but continues to draw cars. The Bureau of Land Management’s California Gateway Site features a kiosk mapping out the rigors of the famous automotive artery. With all this nostalgic highway allure, Needles is definitely a popular place for motor rallies. I saw plenty of chrome and custom paint jobs.

During any trip to Needles, a drive close to its namesake rocky spires is a must. A dozen miles away, they have that quintessential Southwestern look, and instill more than a bit of awe at just how rugged the desert terrain can be.

Headed out from Avi Resort on Sunday morning, I had time to explore the region. I took a walk in the restored riparian environment of the Big Bend Conservation Area on the outskirts of Laughlin. A bit later I turned off State Road 163 to Grapevine Canyon — one of my favorite places in Southern Nevada — where a short hike up a wash led me to a huge array of petroglyphs.

Finally, I veered left at Searchlight, down the Joshua Tree Highway. Near Primm, I pulled over for a hamburger at The Oasis in tiny Nipton, California, just to keep my Needles adventure going a few moments more. Greg Thilmont

Go here, do this With all modern conveniences and a pool, the Best Western Colorado River Inn is Needles’ poshest place. It has plenty of Route 66 tchotchkes for sale, too. coloradoriverinn.com Dig into an avocado-laden Mohave Benedict at Juicy’s River Cafe, Needles’ main local eatery.

A perfect gathering place for groups, River City Pizza Co. serves up pies, pastas, sandwiches and cold beevos. rivercitypizzaco.com Learn about the Fort Mojave tribe’s history and culture in a hallway museum at Avi Resort & Casino, which features dioramas and photos. avicasino.com If water skiing and beach bonfires are in your wheelhouse, head to fun-loving Pirate Cove Resort & Marina. piratecoveresort.com

~

until september

Nevada’s annual brain-melt is about to set in. You could (1) spend four months sitting by a fan, or (2) embrace the joys of summer culture with this handy guide

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Uncomfortable laughter Sure, we know it’s easy to enough to get

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Mighty winds

your fill of insults and outrage with a scroll through the comments section on the Re-

Free-association time! Ready? Classical

view-Journal website (ba-dum-bum!), but

music. You immediately thought of violins,

sometimes you need a pro. Enter insult com-

didn’t you? Well, the Uncharted Winds

ic Jeff Ross. He’s practically licensed, being

concert should cure you of that habit.

the burner-in-chief who heads up those ce-

They’ll perform several beautiful classical

lebrity roasts that take annoying pop monkey

works rendered in winds, including Bohuslav Martinu’s Sonata Madrigal for flute, violin, and piano and Felix Mendelssohn’s Piano Trio in C, transcribed by A. Viazovtsev for piano, flute, and horn. 2p, $10-$12, Winchester Cultural Center

brat children like Justin Bieber down a notch of Broadway, and he has the hardware (21

ic observational humor will make for a nice

Side Story to Fiddler on the Roof, Cabaret

chaser. 7p, $35-$49, May 15, House of Blues

to Phantom of the Opera — to prove it. This evening celebrates the director-producer’s

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or seven. Comic Dave Attell’s bleak, neurot-

Tony awards) and resumé — from West

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achievements with an onstage interview

Atypical Hansel

A Princely evening

punctuated by live performances of his

Engelbert Humperdinck — the late Ger-

work. 7:30p, $24-$79, Reynolds Hall at

man composer, not the still (we’re pretty

His name is Hal Prince, but he’s the king

The Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com

sure) living English crooner — might not recognize Sin City Opera’s production of

I C AN ’ T WA I T T O S EE T H I S !

Giselle Vengeful

his classic Hansel & Gretel. Says here SCO’s production will be “deconstructed” and “homeless,” with “deeper characterizations than in the original setting.” Sounds brainy!

May 9-10

forest nymphs called Wilis lure two-timing louses into

But approachable, too, since it’ll be sung in English — ideal for opera newcomers. 7p May 15-16, May 22-24; 2p May 24, $10-$15, Winchester Cultural Center, 702-455-7340

a dance of death. Oh, yeah. That’s why I’m psyched for the Nevada Ballet Theatre’s presentation of Giselle. Sure, it’s one of the world’s oldest continuously performed ballets, first staged in 1841 Paris. And, yeah, it’s the “Hamlet of ballets,” according to dance writer Cyril Beaumont, because it requires the ballerina to be both actress and dancer. And it introduced pointe techniques that are still used today. That’s all legit. But what I’m clearing my calendar for is the story, Theophile Gautier’s adaptation of Henrich Heine’s creepy Romantic tale: Peasant girl Giselle dies of a broken heart when she finds out her beloved, Albrecht, is actually a nobleman in disguise who’s been engaged to another woman the whole time he’s been — ahem — dancing with her. The whole deceit-and-death thing seals Giselle’s fate to join the Wilis, and the addition of Albrecht to their hit list. Will Giselle get revenge for every jilted lover ever? Will she protect her beloved from beyond the grave? I don’t know. No, really. There are different versions with different endings. Oh, May 9. Why can’t you be today? Heidi Kyser

7:30p and 2p, $29-129, The Smith Center, 361 Symphony Park Ave., nevadaballet.com

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Folk signals Forget its utilitarian roots in inter-island communication, and relish the commanding art form that taiko drumming has become. When Las Vegas Kaminari Taiko performs the Thundering Taiko Drum Show for Asian American Pacific Islander Heritage Month, its message will be clear: If the Earth has a heart, this is its beat. 2p, free, Clark County Library, 702-507-3458

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I C AN ’ T WA I T T O S EE T H I S !

In between

Paleontologist Jack Horner

May 16

The man’s trying to make a dinosaur with a chicken leg. That right

If you’ve seen the rotunda exhibit space in the Clark County Government Center, you know it’s a large, echoing place. The task artist Abraham Abebe has set for himself is to occupy that vastness with works that merge paintings and sculptures into three-dimensional objects that explore such themes as chance, identity and the cultural in-be-

there is enough to lure me to see to Dr. Jack Horner at the Las Vegas Natural

tweenness he experiences now as an Ethiopi-

History Museum. But it gets better — renowned paleontologist Horner has

an in America. Through July 10, Clark Coun-

long occupied a weird and wonderful place in both pop culture and paleon-

ty Government Center, clarkcountynv.gov

tology. He’s the guy who discovered dinosaur eggs in the 1970s, inspired the Dr. Alan Grant character in the Jurassic Park movies (for which he was also a technical consultant) and found evidence of a 13-ton T-Rex he named ... Sue. And Horner arrives in Las Vegas at the perfect time: We’re cleaning up

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Gutter punks Punk’s not dead. Bowling’s not dead. That can only mean (doing mental arithmetic) Punk

the newly established Tule Springs Fossil Beds National Monument — a fu-

Rock Bowling is extra alive! Indeed, the annu-

ture dinosaur park? — in our own backyard, and — because why not? — the

al festival of music and alley mayhem has be-

new film Jurassic World is set for release in June.

come a veritable institution since it launched

Horner, who never finished his bachelor’s degree but earned a MacArthur Fellowship in 1986 and the world’s top paleontology prize in 2013 (the Society of Vertebrate Paleontology’s Romer-Simpson prize), wrote a 2009

in 1999. And now, spot the made-up punk band names in the following sentence: This year’s lineup features acts such as Rancid, Deathrattle, Killary Klinton, the Murder City

book called How to Build a Dinosaur: Extinction Doesn’t Have to Be Forever,

Devils, AWOLnutz, and Turbonegro. May 22-

about his plan to take a gene from one organism and mix it with the ge-

25, $5-$120, various venues

nome of another, add a few spices and voila! — serve up the chickenosaurus.

He wasn’t kidding. Since then, he’s been toiling away on the veloci-chick. In November, Horner told the Washington Post that he expects to succeed in making the small, winged, feathered, tailed, toothed dinosaur within the next 10 years — using a big chunk of funding from old movie pal George Lucas.

“I think we could achieve a suite of changes in one embryo so that the re-

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Wonder bred Wunder Kammer, the title of Kim Johnson’s exhibit, refers to the centuries-old tradition of the “cabinet of wonders” — a collection of “items of natural, scientific, philosophic and

sulting animal could hatch and live out a normal life span, eating, moving and

alternative or fabricated artistic curiosities,”

functioning without difficulty,” Horner told the Post. And why not? What could

as Johnson puts it. Her work updates that

possibly go wrong? Sounds like a solid question for Horner. Stacy J. Willis

2p, free with paid admission ($10 adults, $8 students and seniors, $3 children), Las Vegas Natural History Museum, lvnhm.org

idea by merging organic and found materials, as well as painted and sculptural elements, into pieces that probe “the intersection between environment and our physical and emotional reaction to it.” Through July 17, free, Winchester Gallery, 702-455-7340

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ner. 2p and 7p, $25 general admission, Onyx Theater, asylumtheatre.org

June 5

Stringing us along

June 6

Art for humanity!

These aren’t your grandma’s doilies — Lynne

Steve Wynn’s Picasso-ward flying elbow

Adamson Adrian “warps the idea of a female

attack aside, art generally isn’t known for

domestic sphere” by infusing such stereo-

inspiring acts of violence. In fact, maybe

typically female forms, such as crochet, with

art can play a role in staying the hostile

artistic intent. If any show can make crochet

hand, and maybe the empathic powers of

sculpture cool, it’s this one. Opening recep-

artists in portraying their subjects can rub

tion June 5. Through June 30, free, Black-

off on viewers. Those are the ideas that the

bird Studios, blackbirdstudioslv.com

Art 21 series segment “Compassion” probes

June 4-20

William Kentridge, Doris Salcedo, Carrie

as it explores the work of artists such as

Cloak and swagger

Mae Weems and more. Finally, a feelgood

In the 2014 play Veils, two strong young

film not based on a Nicholas Sparks book.

women, one Muslim African-American

2p, free, Barrick Museum, unlv.edu

and the other Egyptian, discover what’s deeper than burkas — and skin — when

June 9

olution Cairo. Sarah O’Connell directs the

Sit locally, be entertained globally

regional debut of Tom Coash’s award-win-

You get a bit of everything in this Inter-

they become college roommates in pre-rev-

I C AN ’ T WA I T T O S EE T H I S !

Eddie Izzard

June 12, 13

Maybe you had to be there. Eddie Izzard, in lip-

are. He says he’s a lesbian trapped in a man’s body, which

stick, eyeliner, Geisha shirt, skin-tight leather pants and

seems to me to be a mathematical nightmare. Izzard, who

gray platform heels, was doing a joke comparing the or-

doesn’t perform in drag as much these days, is part History

igins of the Anglican Church (“Henry VIII just raped, pil-

Channel, part Monty Python, part Christopher Hitchens.

laged and stole a lot of money off the monasteries”) with

He does five minutes on dressage. Let me repeat …

the advent of Protestantism (“That was Martin Luther

dressage. For a comedian to pull this off, he or she must

posting a note on a church door that said, “Hang on a

first introduce the concept (think dancing horses) to ev-

minute.”) … and it killed.

eryone not named Ann Romney and Rafalca; then mimic

To say Izzard is a force of nature (his current tour is

the relationship between animal and rider; and conclude,

called Force Majeure) is to assume either can keep up. A

in pitch-perfect cadence, by embodying an overheated

cross-dressing comedian, fluent in German and French, who

dressage announcer doing the play-by-play. That Izzard

successfully exposes the warts of the Anglican and Protes-

does all that and, for good measure, ends the joke by

tant churches is a good night of entertainment, even before

giving the rider — and by extension, his execution of the

the impersonations of Sean Connery as Henry, James Mason

joke — four points (considered Insufficient in the sport),

as God and half-crazed German guy as Martin Luther. He’s

while ending with a Narnia reference is ... well, only some

also right: Blacks in church always seem happier than whites

kind of force could do that. Barry Friedman

8p, $63-$83, Pearl theater at the Palms, palms.com

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cultural Exchange Show: Japanese music

and Herb Vogel Collection, amply demon-

doesn’t go unmarked here in Rat Pack City.

and dance, mariachi, Chinese dance, belly

strate. Both arise from a partnership with

His son, Frank Jr., presents Sinatra Sings

dancing courtesy of the Centennial Hills

the Las Vegas Art Museum. The first show-

Sinatra, an evening of reminiscences, pho-

Active Adults Center. You’ll feel national

cases newly acquired works, many with

tos, film clips and, of course, songs, per-

borders dissolve with every number. 6p, $8

local ties (Brian Porray, Angela Kallus,

formed by the son fronting an orchestra

advance, $10 door, Winchester Cultural

Robert Beckmann). The second comprises

manned by many colleagues of the father.

works donated by New York collectors the

7:30p, $25-$115, Reynolds Hall at The

Vogels. Look for such notables as Lynda

Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com

Center, 702-455-7340

June 12

Don’t do it, Cio-Cio San! Few things say “diverting summer enter-

Benglis, Neil Jenney, Richard Tuttle and more. Opening reception 6p. Through September 19, free, Barrick Museum, unlv. edu/barrickmuseum

tainment” like a tragic opera indicting American imperial arrogance and culmi-

June 20

nating in heartbroken suicide. But there’s

Poetry in emotion

a reason Puccini’s Madama Butterfly is,

When it comes to his art, pianist and poet

according to one accounting, the world’s

Carlos Mongrut has got the whole peanut

seventh-most-produced opera: The story

butter-and-chocolate thing going on: His

of Pinkerton, Cio-Cio San, Suzuki and the

poetry is musical and his music is poetic.

rest is bundled up in classic operatic music.

In his show Extraordinary Tomorrow, he’ll

7:30p, $55-$95, UNLV’s Judy Bayley The-

perform some of his favorite songs and

atre, operalasvegas.com

read some of his poems. A little blues- and

June 12-28

word — one great afternoon. 2p, free, Sa-

soul-tinged music, a little heartfelt spoken

The words’ fallout

hara West Library, lvccld.org

Written 35 years ago by Eric Overmyer, dystopian play Native Speech resonates

June 20

more than ever today. It follows the melt-

Frankin’ time

down of underground DJ Hungry Mother

It’s been a hundred years since Frank Sina-

as he broadcasts vitriolic sermons and in-

tra was born — the kind of milestone that

June 24

Levi Fackrell directs the closer for Cock-

What Happened to Jimmy Hoffa?

roach Theatre’s 2014-15 ensemble season.

Good question! Theories abound. (No sur-

fotainment that take on a surprising twist.

2p and 8p, $16-20, Art Square Theatre,

prise; it is, after all, one of the enduring

cockroachtheatre.com

mysteries of the 20th century.) To help sort them out, the Mob Museum gathers writers Dan Moldea and Scott M. Burnstein,

June 18

Putting it all together

and lawyer Stanley Hunterton. 7p, $25, the Mob Museum, themobmuseum.org

Collages and assemblages from the hand of artist, architect and homebuilder Bruce Matlaf. Reception 5p. Through September 20, free, Centennial Hills Library, lvccld.org

June 27

Systems analysis You needn’t be a character in a Pynchon novel — though being named Pig Bodine would

June 19

be kinda cool — to wonder about the impact

Collection inspection

of information and technological systems on

The acquisition of art, the building of a col-

our lives and our culture. This episode of the

lection — it’s a pillar of real museum activ-

PBS series Art 21 explores that idea through

ity, and UNLV’s Barrick Museum is going

the work of artists John Baldessari, Kim-

about it in a big way, as two concurrent ex-

sooja and others. 2p, free, Barrick Museum

hibits, Recent Acquisitions and The Dorothy

Auditorium, unlv.edu/barrickmuseum

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I C AN ’ T WA I T T O S EE T H I S !

Really Bad Rice,

by Greg Allred

july 16

I’m always drawn to the subtle eddies of back-and-forth complexity in Greg Allred’s metal sculptures. Made — laboriously — of a hard, unforgiving material, they achieve a feeling of nimbleness, of lightness. Partaking of a pop conviviality — so bright and approachable! — they double back on you at second glance. Hey, that’s a gun, or, Hey, that’s a knife, or, Hey, that’s a mousetrap.

Intimations of danger, then, posed next to familiar shapes, a house, maybe, or a coffee cup or a feather, which suggest the opposite. And yet: What’s the difference between a knife and a feather made of metal? And so you think, Hmm, there are some interesting ideas at — “Art isn’t about ideas,” Allred says. An artist can waste time waiting for a good idea. “It’s about doing the work.” It’s about the long labor of cutting and grinding the metal, losing yourself in the muscle-and-brain rhythms of the task — analogous, perhaps, to an athlete being “in the zone” — and letting the shapes and their relationships come to you intuitively.

“I like art that hits you in the guts,” he says. But he’s not above ticking the eyes, either. Swivel your orbs to the right and see for yourself. Then check the dozen or so new works he’ll show in his new exhibit, intriguingly titled Really Bad Rice. Opening reception 5p, July 16. Scott Dickensheets

Through October 8, free, City Hall Grand Gallery, artslasvegas.org J u ly 1 2

What’s up, doc?

Do you run? Does it hurt? Well, sit still a

J u ly 2

When Vegas was the bomb

of seeing distant mushroom clouds during

minute for this presentation by Dr. Donald

above-ground tests. Docents of the Na-

Ozello, author of Running: Maximize Perfor-

tional Atomic Testing Museum discuss. 7p,

mance and Minimize Injuries. His thing is to

free, Clark County Library, lvccld.org

help runners prevent and handle “painful and performance-limiting conditions.” You

J u ly 3

can ask him about your shin splints at the

July marks 70 years since Trinity, the

Straight outta Gallup

meet-and-greet afterward. 2:30p, free, Sa-

first-ever atom-bomb test, ushered the

Enchanted White Girl is Lisa Dittrich’s

hara West Library, lvccld.org

world into the nuclear era. Bad news for

suite of paintings and pen-and-ink draw-

Hiroshima and Nagasaki, but better news

ings depicting her adolescence as a young

J u ly 1 4 - 1 9

for Sin City: “The best thing to happen to

girl in Gallup, New Mexico. For some extra

The time of your life

Vegas was the atomic bomb,” Benny Binion

visual pop, she’s recreated Route 66 signs

Guys, you know your baby’s gonna back you

once said. The Nevada Test site infused

from that area. Opening reception July 3.

into a corner on this, so just surrender to

jobs and money into the economy, and

Through July 31, free, Blackbird Studios,

the grabby story and familiar tunes of Dirty

tourists flocked for the space-age novelty

blackbirdstudioslv.com

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the movie, only more live, less Swayze-ish.

J u ly 2 3

Museum’s Art Glass Collection. If those

7:30p, $29-$139, Reynolds Hall at The Smith

City life

names don’t mean anything to you, you’ll

Center, thesmithcenter.org

With their clipped collage elements, exag-

want to hurry to this exhibit to see why

gerated-perspective cityscapes and gritty

they should, and to learn more about this

J u ly 2 0

color schemes, the pieces in Alexander

often underappreciated artistic medium.

Sense of a place

P. Huerta’s Vintage Urban Collection have

Through January 23, free, Barrick Muse-

There’s a spot five miles south of town —

an appealingly loose, freestyle energy. In-

um, unlv.edu

thus this exhibit’s title, South of Town —

dividually, each is an eyeful; together in a

that’s fascinated artist Sean Russell. Peo-

gallery they ought to kick it in a raucous

ple go there to shoot guns, ride dirt bikes,

big-city block party. Opening reception

scavenge for junk and just horse around,

5p. Through October 4, free, Sahara West

overwriting the desert with a scrim of

Library, lvccld.org

perfectly American culture. With a brace of abstract ceramic forms and large-scale

J u ly 2 4

landscape photos, Russell will explore the

Fragile beauty

meanings of this unique piece of ground.

Do these names — Tiffany, Quezal, Steu-

Opening reception July 24. Through Sep-

ben, Loetz, and Daum Nancy — mean any-

tember 11, free, Clark County Government

thing to you? If so, you’ll want to hurry to

Center rotunda, clarkcountynv.gov

this exhibit of selections from the Barrick

I C AN ’ T WA I T T O S EE T H I S !

Hot Havana Nights August 6

Before the

Rat Pack ushered in an era of swank in Sin City,

Havana was where it was at. With its beach resorts, anything-goes atmosphere and mob-backed casino action, the sun-soaked city was the top gambling destination for high-rollers and middle-class vacationers alike.

But Havana wasn’t just a preview slide of what Vegas could and would become. The gaming, drinking and carousing that characterized Havana in the first half of the 20th century were infused with distinctly Cuban

J u ly 2 4 - 2 5

Festival of tights For 15 years, the Las Vegas Dance in the Desert Festival has assembled choreographers and companies from around the valley once a year to show off their mad moves in this two-day dance bonanza. A dozen companies are participating this year, and master classes will be offered for performers and attendees. 2p and 7p, free, Summerlin Library, newdancefoundation.org

culture: tropical cocktails, cigars and, of course, plenty of dancing and music. The Mob Museum celebrates that period with “Hot Havana Nights.”

Think of it as the Mob Museum going to a costume party dressed as a midcentury Havana resort, perspiring strong rum, cigar smoke and irresistible conga beats that cause booty rhythm infections. And what would a Cuban-themed party be without plenty of blackjack, roulette, baccarat and craps? Si, si! The party even has some actual museum stuff: real resort kitsch, hotel artifacts and historic articles about Cuba. Andrew Kiraly

6p, $36-$40, Mob Museum, themobmuseum.org

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Gentrifarcification Okay, we made up that word above, but only because S.J. Hodges’ new play, The Bourgie Willie B., required it: It’s a farce about gentrification, starring a Manhattan stockbroker, his wife, daughter and maid, and a hip-hop starlet. Time TBA, $25, Art Square Theatre, asylumtheatre.org.

I C AN ’ T WA I T T O S EE T H I S !

George Clinton & Parliament Funkadelic August 20

It’s always a good sign when I’m at a live music show and find myself asking, “What planet is this concert being held on?” The last time I saw George Clinton & Parliament Funkadelic, in between enjoying stage theatrics that were part-Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, part-adult diaper fetish fashion show, and part-Cannibus Cup award ceremony, I thought to go use the restroom at one point but decided not to for two reasons: First, I didn’t want to miss any of the music or the action; second, I felt like if I pushed open the “exit” door, I’d be immediately sucked out into deep space because the building was most definitely in orbit. If you’ve never been pleasantly unsettled by an odd feeling that the musical venue you’re inside of left Earth a few hours ago, believe me

A u g u st 6

when I say it feels fun. There’s nothing like brilliant funk music to bring you

Locutions about locations

A ero s m i th : R O SS H A L F I N

out of the very worst bad-funk workweek doldrums, and the distinctive flavor of Clinton’s sound always promises to bring variety in spades. These

Journalist F. Andrew Taylor takes listen-

don’t-miss concerts are truly a place where anything can happen — Clin-

ers on a pop-culture tour of the city — the

ton’s wild memoir, Brothas Be, Yo Like George, Ain’t That Funkin’ Kinda

places and faces of Las Vegas as seen in Di-

Hard On You? (Atria Books, 2014), includes reminiscence of the time a fan

amonds Are Forever, Fear & Loathing in Las

jumped onstage, dropped her pants, toked a joint with her butt and then

Vegas and more. It’s the fictional Vegas vs

proceeded to blow smoke rings. So, on Thursday, August 20, can we top

the real Vegas — if those are, in fact, differ-

that, Vegas? At the very least, can we try? Alissa Nutting

8p, $27.50-$33, Brooklyn Bowl, vegas.brooklynbowl.com

ent things. 7p, free, Clark County Library, lvccld.org

A u g u st 1 2 - 2 9

Vine swingers You’d have to be raised by hyenas to let something as trivial as a complete lack of social skills come between you and your beloved. Lucky for Tarzan, he was raised

A u g u st 1

by apes, so when British naturalist Jane

See ’em while you can!

Phil Collins wrote the music and lyrics

Aerosmith. Like we gotta tell

for the Tarzan stage musical that’s based

you anything about these

on the Disney film, part of Super Sum-

shows up in the jungle, it all works out.

guys. 6:30p, $49.50-$149.50,

mer Theatre’s 2015 season. 8:05p, $12-

MGM Grand Garden Arena,

$20, Spring Mountain Ranch, supersum-

mgmgrand.com

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Buzz feed Need a sip of summer escape? These cocktails give you a taste of your dream destination — whether you’re out and about or mixing at home By Lissa Townsend Rodgers

P H o t o g r a ph y b y

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Buzz feed

THE HOT SPOT The Devil May Care at the Chandelier Bar in The Cosmopolitan

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Flower show A cocktail can evoke a lush garden without wilting into a cloying bouquet.

At downtown’s Itsy Bitsy (702-4059393), the Sugar Plum Fairy has bubbles and an orchid perched on the rim, but the lightly sweet blend of vodka, plum wine and sparkling sake keeps it sophisticated. The second-level Chandelier Bar at The Cosmopolitan (cosomopolitanlasvegas.com) pours the Royal Tenenbaum, which blends delicate Combier Pamplemousse Rose liqueur with slightly woodsy reposado tequila like a flower blooming out of the earth, topped by cilantro and cucumber.

The Chunnel at The Barrymore (barrymorelv.com) is a simple concoction of Hendrick’s gin and St. Germain, finished of with a twirl of lemon. It looks as minimal as a Chanel suit, but the botanical and rose flavors that characterize Hendrick’s blend with the elderflower liqueur into a taste as sumptuous as a flower-bedecked Oscar de la Renta gown. (To put a bloom on your own mixology, look for liquors with floral notes or add a splash of rose petal nectar to a gimlet or martini.)

Tea time

tion as the dinner menu. The 50 Shades of Earl Grey blends Tanqueray gin with Earl Grey syrup and lemon, topped by a splash of prosecco — half proper lady, half party girl.

Permanent vacation Sometimes you just want to get where you’re going. The quick buzz of the moment is the ubiquitous Fireball shot, but there are other methods. Itsy Bitsy’s Shiso Crazy is a classy way to drink your brown liquor (almost) straight. Rye whiskey is shaken with a hint of shiso pepper and a splash of chocolate bitters to give an undertone of smoky sweetness to the liquor. Of course, if you want to keep things firmly non-fancy, the Velveteen Rabbit’s ‘Merica (702-685-9645) is a shot of jalapeño and mustard seed-infused bourbon served with a can of Olympia beer and a “charcuterie stick” (let’s just say tiny hot dogs are involved).

FLOWER SHOW The Royal Tenenbaum at the Chandelier Bar in The Cosmopolitan

Want to summer somewhere civilized? Tea is the most aristocratic of libations, only meeting liquor during the rare teacup-spiking or the dreaded Long Island Iced (which is no tea at all). But tea has become a favored cocktail ingredient with light taste and softening effect especially suited to summer drinks.

In the clubby atmosphere of Bound in the Cromwell (caesars.com/cromwell), the focus is on the circular marble bar. There’s a selection of updated classics, including a modern take on 18th-century Fish House Punch made from Appleton rum, Hennessy VSOP, Grand Marnier, lemon and black tea: Imagine Ernest Hemingway holding forth, gripping one in his hand. Summerlin’s new hotspot, Andiron Steak & Seafood (andironsteak.com) applies as much creativity to the cocktail selec-

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Buzz feed

FARM FRESH The Peter Rabbit at Searsucker

One place everyone manages to go this season is to the party. Le Central Bar at the Paris (caesars.com) recently renovated, redone in a whimsical Louis XIV look and a new cocktail menu designed for Vegas-style drinking, with cocktails for four that do bottle service one better. The Vodka Lemonade Berry Porthole comes in a round glass carafe full of berries and booze. There are also several varieties of sangria, all spiked with flavored Stolichnaya, liqueurs and fruit. Shared beverages accommodate celebrations and suit Le Central’s Marie Antoinette/Alice in Wonderland aesthetic. (Sangria is often a good choice at summer soirees, whether formal or spontaneous. It can be an elegant concoction of champagne, cognac and exotic fruits or a resourceful mix of hostess gift wine, seldom-used liqueurs and berries two days from going squishy. Regardless of provenance, guests will drink it up.)

Tropicalia As things heat up, thoughts turn to hula girls, tiki heads and fruity cocktails.

For the authentic ersatz Polynesian experience, Frankie’s Tiki Room (frankiestikiroom.com) is the gold standard. The menu runs from traditional drinks such as the Zombie, with its light and dark rums and 151 on top, to house originals like the Sea Hag, a blend of rums, guava juice and Cherry Heering liqueur that goes down dangerously easy.

If your vision of the tropics is more along the lines of Elvis and the Brady Bunch, the kitsch at the Peppermill’s Fireside Lounge (peppermilllasvegas. com) permeates both the setting (firepit water feature) and the menu (heavy on the ’70s). Their Blue Hawaiian is a classic, made sweet and smooth with Curaçao and pineapple, while the Scorpion Bowl is a legendary wrecker of men and the occasional ship. (To

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bring the exotic home, try a mix of light and dark rums, which will add depth even to simple drinks.)

Farm fresh Even far from lush fields, green trees and cool breezes, you can still close your eyes and drink in the countryside. Searsucker’s cocktails menu (searsucker. com) is heavy on garden flavors, with many beverages based on their house-infused liquors such as blackberry-peach bourbon or seasonal berry vodka. The Peter Rabbit blends cucumber-infused gin or Pimm’s with basil and lemon, finished with pickled carrot.

At Hash House a Go-Go (hashhouseagogo.com), the spiked Watermelon Lemonade is garnished with a thick triangle of the fruit and echoes it inside the glass with a layer of green melon liqueur floating below pink vodka goodness. It’s a bit of a country fair cocktail; if you prefer a garden party, the Velveteen Rabbit’s Tootie & Rhuby is an elegant blend of gin, rhubarb, basil, salted strawberry and a meringue topping that helps the flavors blend and spread on the palate.

(Remember the herbs in your own garden (or refrigerator) when garnishing or mixing: Rosemary complements whiskeys, basil or lavender puts a spring in vodka and gin goes nicely with thyme and lemon.)

The sensible traveler Those who eschew alcohol don’t have to limit their choices to regular or diet: You can still sip something with the flair of a cocktail, if not the kick. Atomic Liquors (atomiclasvegas. com) fixes up a cherry Coke with Grenadine, cherry bitters and, of course, a few maraschinos. Down the street at the Perch (theperchlv.com), the makeyour-own Bloody Mary can be ordered virgin-style: If you have lemons, olives,

peter rabbit courtesy hakkasan group

Party scene

THE SENSIBLE TRAVELER The Cannon at PublicUs

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Buzz feed

Poolside The very word “summer” evokes cocktails by the pool, something that’s become not only a pastime but an industry in Las Vegas. The Downtown Grand’s pool bars (downtowngrand. com) are pouring the eponymous Pool Deck cocktail: Made from Deep Eddy Ruby Red Grapefruit vodka, agave, lime and a splash of soda, it’s a bit like a lighter, carbonated Greyhound.

The Encore’s Daylight Beach Club (daylightvegas.com) has added a selection of mojitos to their menu, available in regular, large and pitcher sizes.

Along with the traditional recipe, there is a Daylight Melon made with Bacardi Grand Melon and watermelon juice, as well as a Dragon Berry with dragonberry rum and strawberry juice. At the MGM Pool (mgmgrand.com), a Pineapple Coconut Mojito used pineapple Ciroc vodka, lime, mint and coconut water. (Coconut water is a good mixer for poolside drinks, diluting alcohol while hydrating: Not a bad idea when the temperature is in the triple digits.)

TEA TIME The 50 Shades of Earl Grey at Andiron

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The hot spot The desert in summer may seem hot enough, but cocktails with jalapeño, chipotle and shishito range from subtle to “Whew!” Atomic Liquors’ Smoked Melon has an addictive, sweet

heat from Mezcal and habanera, but splashes of melon and beer keep things refreshing. On the second level of the Chandelier Bar, the Devil May Care is a refined, fiery version of the Bloody Mary: Hangar One chipotle vodka and house-made mix are kicked up with Sriracha gastrique, rosemary and dill. Delicious, but do yourself a favor and ask for a glass of water when you order.

If you want to calibrate your own spice level, the margaritas at Mercadito in the Red Rock Casino Resort & Spa can be adjusted to your personal preferences for heat and “smoke” via Yucateco green chile or atomized Mezcal. (If mixing at home, you can guard against over-heating by trying a cilantro vodka in your Bloody Mary or a margarita with jalapeño tequila.)

Cosmopolitan chic Sometimes, air-conditioned elegance is getaway enough. The Monkey Bar at SLS (slslasvegas.com) is small but a thorough escape from summer: It may be blazing-bright outside, but inside it’s dim, with the tinkle of a piano and the clink of ice cubes. The Monkey Suit is a Bulleit Bourbon Manhattan made festive with torched banana and marinated cherries; the Monkey Fuzz Gimlet blends Absolut Apeach and peach purée with a hint of crushed Sonora pepper. Another place to hide in chic is the old-Hollywood-styled Barrymore, whose Sage Gumdrop is a Lemon Drop for the sophisticated palate with citron vodka, sage liqueur, lemon and a sugar-black pepper rim.

50 shades of earl grey: christopher smith

celery, horseradish and hot sauce to play with, who needs vodka?

PublicUs’ coffee bar (publicuslv. com) has a master barista blending up unique beverages like the Espresso Old Fashioned or The Cannon, which is a mix of espresso, shot with lime and shaken over ice. (At home, try one of the many flavored sodas on the market, from lavender to blood orange, or add a dash of bitters and a twist of lime to seltzer for something that’s cooler than a Shirley Temple in more ways than one.)

PERMANENT VACATION The ‘Merica at Velveteen Rabbit

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Why yes, that wine yy’re having is paired to the music.

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your Arts+Entertainment calendar for may

28

23

Robert Plant

Guys Sing Dolls

Brooklyn Bowl Time to show a whole lotta love — that’s right, stamp our passports because we went there! — for this rock god turned frontman for the Sensational Space Shifters. Their spacey, jammy, folky blues are a great base for Plant’s latecareer voice, brined in five lifetimes of hard-rockin’ experience. 8p, $76.50, vegas.brooklynbowl.com

Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center

7 Walter Mosely UNLV Great choice to deliver the first Jim Rogers Contrarian Lecture — in this case an against-the-grain talk about higher ed. Not just because Mosely’s written some 40-odd books, including the celebrated Easy Rawlins mysteries. No, look closely at the picture: That’s one badass ring he’s wearing. Contrarian credentials sealed. 7p, free, blackmountaininstitute.org

22 Simon Majumdar The Writer’s Block Majumdar’s nicely plated memoir, Fed, White and Blue: Finding America With My Fork, chronicles his attempt to eat his way from immigrant to citizen as he explores his new country’s food cultures. 7p, free, thewritersblock.org

Men (from Phantom, Les Miz, Million Dollar Quartet and more) sing songs written by women, including Carole King, Adele, Cyndi Lauper and Peggy Lee. A hint, fellas: This has “date night” written all over it. 2p & 8p, $35-$40, thesmithcenter.com

28 Oscar Goodman on Jimmy Chagra The Mob Museum Imagine Oscar Goodman orating legalese for six hours.

That speedy, self-confident yawp — six hours! That was the fate of jurors hearing closing arguments in the trial of Vegas drug kingpin Jimmy Chagra, defended by Goodman in a sensational murder case. Chagra’s gone, but Oscar’s still here to headline a talk about his “case of the century.” 7p, $26, themobmuseum.org

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THE GUIDE ART

CHOCOLATE: THE EXHIBITION

THROUGH MAY 3 Interactive exhibits reveal the plant, products and mystique of chocolate throughout the ages in science, history and popular culture. Enter a tropical rainforest to learn how cacao is grown and how it is processed to fulfill today’s global demand. Examine chocolate’s role throughout history and how mass production of chocolate bars fueled the Industrial Revolution. Free with general admission. Springs Preserve

ROCK STARS: STONE SCULPTURE

THROUGH MAY 5, MON-THU 7A-5P This exhibit includes various genres of stone sculpture created by artists who have studied stone carving techniques at Gainsburg Studio, taught by owner and artist Sharon Gainsburg.

Free. Las Vegas City Hall Grand Gallery, 495 S. Main St., first floor, 702-229-1012

CAR SHOW

THROUGH MAY 8 Artists Justin Favela and Sean Slattery collaborate to create an indoor car show featuring three new, life-size recreations, including one built piñata-style. Free. Clark County Government Center Rotunda Gallery, clarkcountynv.gov

LIGHTSEEKER

THROUGH MAY 10 Artist Stephanie Hirsch has created a participatory installation including black and white walls, symbolizing the darkness and light within our souls. Guests write their feelings on bumper stickers that read either “I CREATE” or “I CONQUER,” then place the stickers on the appropriate wall. Free. The Cosmopolitan, cosmopolitanlasvegas.com

ALLISON STREATER

THROUGH MAY 15 Streater’s mixed media collage series features females from fashion catalogs wearing material possessions the artist desires, but cannot afford. The models’ eyes are blocked, representing how we all may be blinded by the countless things in life that restrict us from reaching our full potential. Free. Winchester Cultural Center Gallery, clarkcountynv.gov

NEVADA WATERCOLOR SIGNATURE MEMBER EXHIBIT

THROUGH MAY 23, BY APPOINTMENT ONLY Strong and vibrant watercolor work from

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Nevada Watercolor Society members who have been part of the group for many years.

Free. Mayor’s Gallery, Historic Fifth Street School, 401 S. Fourth St.; 702-229-1012

FABERGÉ REVEALED

THROUGH MAY 25, 8A-10P Showcasing 238 rare Fabergé artifacts as part of the largest public collection of Fabergé outside of Russia. Unique to this exhibition is a small collection of “Fauxbergé” objects – look-alikes once believed to be originals. $17, $14 for Nevada residents, $12 students/seniors/military, children 12 and under free. Bellagio Gallery of Fine Art, bellagio.com/attractions/ gallery-of-fine-art

IN HONOR OF AFRICAN AMERICAN HERITAGE 2015 EXHIBIT

THROUGH MAY 28, MON-THU 7A-5:30P Artwork in various media celebrates African American Month and beyond. Free. Las Vegas City Hall Chamber Gallery, 702229-1012

SPRINGS PRESERVE PHOTO CONTEST EXHIBITION

THROUGH JUNE 21, 10A-6P This year’s theme was “Celebrations and Traditions” when the challenge went out to professional, amateur and youth photographers throughout the valley. Come see the results of the sixth-annual juried photo contest. Free with regular admission. Big Springs Gallery at Springs Preserve

NEVADA 150 EXHIBIT

THROUGH JUNE 30 The exhibit contains many articles from the celebration year, including the Sesquicentennial saddle handmade by J.M. Capriolas which features the GS Garcia stamp and Nevada 150 commemorative silver medallions; a diorama entitled “Home Means Nevada” created using only materials from Nevada; multiple photos from the celebration and much more. Free. First floor of the Grant Sawyer Building, nevada150.org

ART FESTIVAL OF HENDERSON

MAY 9-10, 9A-4P Mother’s Day weekend gets a splash of color. The art show features a variety of art and craft vendors and two stages of live entertainment. Discover your creative side with a colorful palette of interactive art

activities for the children and a variety of chalk art masterpieces at the Imagination Station. Free. Henderson Events Plaza and Henderson Convention Center, cityofhenderson.com

‘TIL DEATH DO YOU PART – MARRY YOURSELF MAY 13-JUNE 7 Guests write vows to themselves, then artist Gabrielle St. Evensen guides them to choose a few costume elements, pick a bouquet and choose a ring to keep. Next, guests enter an inner sanctum where a priestess whispers the vows as guests repeat them to themselves in a mirror. Guests are pronounced married to themselves and are given a personal wedding cake, cheers and a photo. Free. P3Studio at The Cosmopolitan, cosmopolitanlasvegas.com

SOLO CHIC

MAY 14-JULY13, MON-THU 7A-5:30P A five-year retrospective by C.A. Traen featuring ceramic sculptures inspired by a catalogue of sketches. The work is uniquely and dynamically designed to be rich with personality by combining fine hand-sculpted details with wheel-thrown elements, vibrant underglazes and opulent lusters. Free.

Las Vegas City Hall Grand Gallery, 495 S. Main St., first floor, 702-229-1012

DANCE

MOTHER’S DAY DANCE WITH WALT BOENIG BIG BAND

MAY 9, 7P Dance the night away to the music of Glenn Miller, Harry James and Jimmy Dorsey.

Reserved seating available with purchase of eight or more tickets. Adults only. $10 in advance; $15 event day. Charleston Heights Arts Center, 800 S. Brush St., artslasvegas.org/events/dances

HATS OFF TO DANCE

MAY 9, 7P; MAY 10, 2P; MAY 16, 7P; MAY 17, 2P The Sun City Dance Company is proud to present this delightful, toe-tapping, finger-snapping extravaganza. It’s a family show full of joyful music, singing, dancing and mime, even a drill team! $11. Starbright Theatre at Sun City Summerlin, suncity-summerlin.com/starbrighttheatre

DANCES OF INDIA

MAY 31, 2P Purbasha Banerjee, artistic director of Nritya Academy of Indian Dances, will discuss the

culture behind classical and modern dances of India, followed by live performances of Bharata Natyam and Bollywood dances.

Free. Sahara West Library, lvccld.org

MUSIC

RODGERS + HAMMERSTEIN’S CINDERELLA

THROUGH MAY 3, TUE-SUN 7:30P; SAT-SUN 2P The musical from the creators of The Sound of Music and South Pacific, that’s delighting audiences with its contemporary take on the classic tale. $39-$139. Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center

HENDERSON SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA

MAY 1, 8P The orchestra closes the season with Beethoven’s Symphony No. 9, featuring the Las Vegas Master Singers and UNLV Concert Singers. Free. Henderson Pavilion, 200 S. Green Valley Parkway, hendersonlive.com

CANNOLI, LATKES & GUILT … THE THERAPY CONTINUES

MAY 1-2, 7P; MAY 2-3, 3P A laugh-filled fest of everybody you know, have known and some you’d want to forget but can’t! Each of the twenty or so characters is brought to life by Steve, using the voices and dialects that they possess in real life. $35-$40. Troesh Studio Theater at The Smith Center

SOUL MEN AND LADY SOUL STARRING SPECTRUM AND RADIANCE

MAY 8-9, 7P; MAY 10, 3P These eight stellar vocalists sing and dance their way through one of the most influential American songbooks of all time. They will leave you wanting more with stirring renditions of classic hits by The Temptations, The Supremes, The Four Tops, The Marvelettes, The Vandellas, The Miracles, The Stylistics, Donna Summer and more. $37-$40. Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center

THE PIANO GUYS

MAY 11, 7:30P The remarkable classical/pop crossover music stylists will treat audiences of all ages for a night of wonders, including hits from their fourth studio album such as “Let It Go” from the movie Frozen, “Kung Fu Piano: Cello Ascends” and “Story of My Life.” $24-$125.

Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center

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THE GUIDE “HORIZONS”: AN EVENING WITH LISA HILTON AND HER BAND

MAY 15-16, 7P Trained as a classical pianist but with a degree in art, Hilton creates evocative and often impressionistic “sound paintings.” Expect to hear jazz, blues, minimalism, classical, pop, rock or modernist ideas along with beautiful melodies. $37-$49. Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center

POPS V: A TRIBUTE TO THE MUSIC OF FRANK SINATRA

MR. BURNS; A POST-ELECTRIC PLAY

MAY 2-10, THU-SAT 8P; SUN 2P Anne Washburn’s dark comedy begins immediately after the fall of civilization with a group of people trying to recreate episodes of “The Simpsons.” The play is an exploration of how the pop culture of one era might evolve into the mythology of another. $16-$20. Cockroach Theatre, 1025 S. First St., cockroachtheatre.com

YOU’RE A GOOD MAN, CHARLIE BROWN

MAY 16, 7:30P A musical homage to the artist whose voice, name and style left an indelible imprint on our city’s soul. Matt Catingub presents this special tribute featuring his very own arrangements of classic hits by Sinatra. $26$94. Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center

MAY 15, 16, 22, 23, 7:30P This classic musical based on Charles Schulz’ beloved PEANUTS comic strip is being presented by The Shakespeare Institute of Nevada. Come see the Peanuts gang! $10-$22.50. Henderson Pavilion, cityofhenderson.com

LON BRONSON BAND

LAS VEGAS IMPROVISATIONAL PLAYERS

MAY 22, 7:30P Featuring Bronson’s iconic horn-infused 14-piece all-star band for an evening of rock, funk, original compositions and surprise guest stars. $15-$30. Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center

SHOWGIRL FOLLIES V

MAY 23, 7P Featuring selections from Broadway and a tribute to Bob Fosse, Vegas standards from the Rat Pack era, burlesque-style numbers, singers, dancers, magic, legendary Las Vegas showgirls and the hysterical comedy of Kathleen Dunbar. $18. Starbright Theatre at Sun City Summerlin, suncity-summerlin.com/starbrighttheatre

JAMES TORMÉ CELEBRATES THE GREATS

MAY 29-30, 7P A tribute to music’s greatest legends from Ella Fitzgerald, Ray Charles and Nat “King” Cole to Miles Davis, Frank Sinatra, and of course, his own father, Mel Tormé. $37-$49. Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center

FOUR BY FOUR

MAY 30, 7P This tribute to the music of The Beach Boys, The Beatles, The Bees Gees and Motown features all of the greatest hits of these icons in fully choreographed production numbers.

Informative and often humorous banter ties the show together. $18. Starbright Theatre at Sun City Summerlin, suncity-summerlin. com/starbrighttheatre

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MAY 16, 7P Clean-burning, kid-friendly fun “Whose Line is it Anyway?” style. Be part of the show as the audience chooses the starter for each scene and song. Come early for Name that Tune and chocolate. $10 at the door, kids free. American Heritage Academy, 6126 S. Sandhill Road, lvimprov.com

NEVADA HIGH SCHOOL MUSICAL THEATER AWARDS

MAY 17, 3P Recognizing nominees for Best Lead Actor and Actress from this year’s local high school musical theater productions. $10.

Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center

ANNIE

MAY 26-31, 7:30P; MAY 30, 2P Leapin’ Lizards! One of the world’s bestloved musicals is back in time-honored form. Directed by original lyricist Martin Charnin, this new production of Annie will be a classic incarnation of the beloved original. $34-$129. Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center

LECTURES, SPEAKERS AND PANELS

PRESERVING THE OLD SPANISH TRAIL

MAY 16, 11A As the Daughters of the American Revolution marks 125 years of service nationally,

members of the local Old Spanish Trail Chapter in Henderson will discuss preserving your family history. $1. Old Las Vegas Mormon Fort State Historic Park, 500 E. Washington Ave., parks.nv.gov/parks/ old-las-vegas-mormon-fort

WWII ARCHAEOLOGY OF NEVADA

MAY 16, 1P Local archaeologist Jeff Wedding from the Nevada Desert Research Institute will discuss the archaeological evidence of Nevada’s involvement in WWII including artifacts, landscapes and historical structures. Light refreshments served.

Free with general admission to Springs Preserve. Nevada State Museum, 309 S. Valley View Blvd., museums.nevadaculture.org

JAPANESE AMERICAN INTERNMENT OF WWII WITH RARE HISTORICAL PHOTOS

MAY 19, 11A, 3P & 7P View Dorothea Lange’s never-before-seen photos that were impounded by the U.S. government for being too sympathetic to the war efforts, along with images from Sam Mihara’s personal collection. Mihara’s slide show lecture presentation will illustrate the conditions he and his family endured and the lessons learned from this experience. Free. 11a, Rainbow Library; 3p, Sahara West Library; 7p, Clark County Library, lvccld.org

PAINTED STORIES II

MAY 31, 1P Listen to four local authors read from their works while an artist inspired by their words turns blank canvases into works of art before your very eyes. Sponsored by Writers of Southern Nevada. Free for WSN members, $10 for non-members. The Writers Block, 1020 Fremont St., nevadawriters.org

FAMILY & FESTIVALS

18TH ANNUAL DOOLITTLE UNITY FESTIVAL

MAY 9, 11A- 3P Celebrate Doolittle Community Center’s 50th anniversary with games, face painting, basketball clinic, arts and crafts, and community information booths. Free. Doolittle Community Center, 1950 N. J St., 702229-6374

HELLDORADO PARADE

MAY 16, 10A-2P Part of the annual Helldorado Days event, which includes a rodeo and carnival. Sponsored by Las Vegas Elks Lodge #1468. Free.

Parade route is northbound on Fourth Street from Gass Ave. to Ogden Ave., elkshelldorado.com/events/parade

7TH ANNUAL FIESTA FILIPINO

MAY 30, 10A- 6P Delight in the Filipino heritage as the National Federation of Filipino American Associations and the city of Las Vegas present this event that will include food vendors, a variety of retail vendors, cultural performances, live entertainment and much more. $3-$5. Sammy Davis Jr. Festival Plaza in Lorenzi Park, 720 Twin Lakes Drive, 702-878-1797 or 702-229-3514

HELP US. HELP YOU.

FUNDRAISERS

7TH ANNUAL WINE FEST

MAY 15-17 Taste the finest wine selections from California, Oregon and Washington with dinners, receptions and tasting seminars hosted by notable winemakers and sommeliers. Feel even better knowing that 20% of proceeds go to the Ronald McDonald House Charities. $30-$229. The Golden Nugget, goldennugget.com/lasvegas/springwinefest.asp

THE LAS VEGAS EPICUREAN AFFAIR

GOT 10 MINUTES? Desert Companion wants to learn about readers like you. Please take our quick 16 question survey so we can continue to bring you the best magazine in the valley.

TA K E T H E S U R V E Y AT WWW.RESEARCH.NET/S/01-3474

MAY 21, 7-10P Celebrity chef José Andrés brings his world-famous tapas to the must-attend event of the year. VIP ticket holders will experience an exclusive meet and greet with the renowned chef, as well as enjoy tastes from one of his newest Las Vegas restaurants, Bazaar Meat at SLS. Proceeds go toward scholarships for culinary students. $100-$175. The Pools at The Palazzo, palazzo.com

SWING SESSION CELEBRITY GOLF CLASSIC

JUNE 6, 9:30A Join celebrities and world-class chefs for an amazing day of gourmet food and golf alongside MBF Founder and renowned chef Mario Batali to raise funds for children’s charities. $3,500 per golfer, $12,500 foursomes, $100-$250 non-golfers. Cascata Golf Course, Boulder City, mariobatalifoundation.org

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END NOTE

Friends, uncorked

By Eric James Miller

T

he cramped room sparkled with the glint of green wine bottles and an impressive collection of wine knickknacks. Pictures of scenic vineyards and maps of France, Tuscany and California covered what little wall space was available. Cork coasters and paper plates stacked with various cheeses beckoned us to the big table that dominated the room.

Charlie pulled down stemware from a rack on the far wall, turned around and asked, “What do you guys like?”

Our response was a less a chorus than a cacophony: Syrah. Zins. Cabernets. Pinots.

Cabs. Merlot. Big cabs. Meritage. Bordeaux.

My wife and I were with a group of strangers who had come to discuss making a barrel of wine at Grape Expectations’ Nevada School of Winemaking. We all knew a little about wine. Or, at least thought we did.

“I think I’m going to like you guys,” I said. The generous pours began.

I also thought I knew a little about friendship. But stepping into Charlie Pe-

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ters’ office that evening in 2009 not only taught me something about that, it changed my opinion of Las Vegas. It hadn’t been easy meeting other couples our age since moving from L.A. three years earlier. Suddenly, progress by the glass: By the end of the night, there were at least eight empty bottles on the table, and we were hugging 10 former strangers with whom we’d committed to make wine — a nearly yearlong process that requires diplomacy, dedication and lots of decisions.

What kind of grapes should we use?

Should it be cabernet sauvignon-dominant or zinfandel-dominant? Should we just do a pinot noir? Or, should we do a meritage and mix together four or five different grapes to appease everyone? What happens if we add a little rosemary to the crush? Or maybe a couple of pounds of blueberries? What do we call our wine? Do we want a sexy label or a clever label or a serious label? Who’s going to design our label? How much is it going to cost? Can we each design our own? Will your

sister-in-law who’s a graphic artist in Maryland do a separate label for me if my wife and I don’t like the one that the group picks?

If you’ve ever wanted a real-life lesson in group dynamics, if you want a fun crash course in project management, if you want to turn a group of acquaintances into a team that doesn’t let little disagreements ruin budding friendships — make a barrel of wine with a bunch of strangers. They won’t be strangers for long.

I’ll boldly hypothesize that good friendships make for good wine. Or maybe I just want to brag: Our barrel of barbera/syrah took a bronze medal the following year at Grape Expectations’ annual awards dinner. Of course, not every decision of ours was smooth and unanimous, not every step in the process was a kumbaya. For instance, we couldn’t agree on one name, so we went with two different labels: Hey Barbera, Que Syrah? and No Ordinary B.S. We laugh about such disagreements now — like good friends do.

But I suspect even the occasional bad barrel still produces good bonds. Since that first session, my wife and I have been involved in making more than 20 barrels of wine. Some picked up awards; other elicited polite shrugs. They were, however, all fun to make — and a novel way to get to know a wide cross-section of the people who make up Las Vegas.

Ditch that image of the wine snob with a raised pinkie talking about a charred mineral tannic mid-palate. Winemaking has been one of the most egalitarian, socially equalizing endeavors I’ve been involved in. I’ve met executives and secretaries, tradesmen and entrepreneurs in every group. And in a town where gated subdivisions and around-the-clock work schedules don’t exactly encourage community, making friends is already challenging enough.

Doing it while de-stemming and crushing 750 pounds of grapes, or while debating the merits of wine label designs or — best of all — sipping a fresh vintage directly from a new barrel: That’s a different kind of friendmaking I’ll gladly raise my glass to.

Writer Eric James Miller is currently working on an as-yet-unnamed three-yearold barrel of Barolo.

i l lu st r at i o n b r e n t h o l m e s

MORE THAN 128,000 SOUTHERN NEVADA CHILDREN ARE HUNGRY THAT’S THE BAD NEWS. THE GOOD NEWS?

IT’S AN EASY FIX Inadequate nutrition in children has been shown to stunt growth, debilitate cognitive function, and lead to other health and behavioral problems down the road. But they won’t just be their problems, they’ll be all of our problems. And they can be avoided with just a little giving from you. Be a part of the solution.

Together, we can feed everyone.

GIVE • VOLUNTEER • ADVOCATE Learn more at BagChildHunger.org 702-644-FOOD (3663)

FR

Grace. Strength. Artistry.

CELEBRATION.

Nevada Ballet Theatre and Cirque du Soleil® Present

A CHOREOGRAPHERS’ SHOWCASE October 11 & 18, 2015

OMPAC ONKAG LY ES

A BALANCHINE CELEBRATION:

THE NUTCRACKER

Serenade / Slaughter on Tenth Avenue / Who Cares?

From Tchaikovsky to Rodgers & Hart to Gershwin

December 12 – 20, 2015

$1

29

November 7 & 8, 2015

CINDERELLA

THE STUDIO SERIES

ROMEO & JULIET

February 13 & 14, 2016

March 31 – April 3, 2016

May 14 & 15, 2016

NEVADA BALLET THEATRE

2015-2016 SEASON ON SALE NOW (702) 749-2000 NevadaBallet.org 2015-2016 SEASON SPONSORS Photos by Virginia Trudeau. Cinderella photo by Yi Yin, courtesy of Oregon Ballet Theatre. Serenade Choreography by George Balanchine © The George Balanchine Trust. Programs subject to change.