FUNCHAL: A GARDEN BY THE SEA

Sheltered by lush green hills dotted with houses, the capital of the Madeira archipelago resonates with the sound of the waves of the Atlantic that bathe its shore. A wander through the picturesque old part, a stroll in the parks and gardens, a ride down streets at breakneck speed propelled by carreiros do Monte, or a visit to the Lavradores farmers’ market will enable us to immerse ourselves in the very essence and most captivating traditions of the city.

Founded in the 15th century on Madeira’s sunny south coast, Funchal exudes joy and is the hub of island life, acting as a gateway to this surprisingly green Portuguese island. Constantly rejuvenating itself, the city is surrounded by banana groves and gardens, and its natural attractions are complemented by the waves of the Atlantic caressing the bay and by the surrounding rugged mountains, whose slopes contain several districts where the houses display beautiful typically Portuguese tiles with volcanic touches.

Madeira’s characteristic lushness is evident in Funchal’s many parks, which combine tropical and Mediterranean vegetation in a mosaic of colour nurtured by the eternal spring enjoyed by the island.

Fennel or funcho, the Portuguese name for the plant from which the name of Madeira’s capital is derived, is not as abundant as it was in bygone times, although the herb is still used to make traditional sweets. -

After contemplating this wonderful natural balcony overlooking the Atlantic, we are beckoned to the sea by its glistening cobalt blue -

A first stop where we can get a taste of Funchal’s greenery is Santa Catarina Park, which offers lovely panoramic views across the bay.

Close by, the sé (cathedral) is of note for its wooden ceilings and valuable altarpiece, one of the most outstanding works of the Manueline period.

The Lavradores market occupies centre stage in the city’s old part. It opened in 1940 and is one of the best places to immerse yourself in local life among exotic vegetables, flowers and fruits.

Combining art déco and modernism, the permanently busy market is decorated with large tiles depicting regional motifs. In addition to acquainting ourselves with some of the tastes of Madeira in the market itself, we can savour these in a more sophisticated manner in restaurants such as Terreiro Concept, with its very modern takes on locally sourced products, and Nini Design Center, a striking building overlooking the sea which, in addition to boasting a well- known restaurant, serves as a space for showcasing art.

If we want to see more art, we continue our walk through the colourful old part, where the doors of rickety buildings have been transformed into lovely painted canvases, particularly along Santa Maria Maior street. Urban artists constantly inject new life into this old quarter, converting the streets into an outdoor gallery.

At sundown, the bars and fado clubs come into their own and this is a good time to try out the lively night life and savour dishes and drinks such as Madeira’s hallmark poncha.

When in the old part you should take time to visit restored buildings such as the Corpo Santo chapel, Santa Maria Maior church and the bright yellow São

Tiago fortress overlooking the marina and home to the city’s Museum of Contemporary Art. The fortress was built in 1614 to defend the port, an important base for trade between Brazil and India, from pirates and corsairs.

From here we take the cable car up to the Monte quarter in the hills and then travel back down at high speed in giant wicker toboggans steered by the carreiros do Monte, men who have pushed them downhill for over two hundred years using only the rubber soles of their boots as brakes. Before the thrill of the descent, however, we climb the sixty-eight steps of the church of Nuestra Señora do Monte, patron saint of the city, and walk around the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens, a Garden of Eden within Eden and home to more than ten thousand species of plants from all over the world.

After contemplating this wonderful natural balcony overlooking the Atlantic, we are beckoned to the sea by its glistening cobalt blue.

We take to a boat and ride the waves in search of the dolphins that live in these waters and, like them, we revel in the freedom of the sea with the outline of Funchal as a backdrop.

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Binter flies to Madeira every day from July to September, with connecting flights from all the Canary Islands. Flight time is one hour and twenty minutes. Madeira airport is located 16km from Funchal, with a taxi costing around 25 €. Hiring a car is recommended as it is the best way to visit the different parts of the island.

Discover Madeira’s very special accommodation options: quintas are charming country house hotels with beautiful gardens and excellent restaurants.

Casa Velha do Palheiro 5*: this unique quinta is one of the island’s most beautiful properties, renowned for its gardens, golf course, spa and tea house.

Pestana Casino Park Ocean & Spa Hotel 5*: centrally located and renovated, with magnificent views over Funchal Bay; also, the Pestana CR7, a more modern concept in the heart of the port area. Marketplace Apartments: central and modern, in the heart of Funchal. For these and other options offering the best price/quality ratio, see Canariasviaja.com.

Madeira’s gastronomy is part of the travel experience. Its fresh fish, tuna and swordfish are a must. Beerhouse: restaurant situated in Funchal’s marina and serving fresh fish accompanied by craft beers. Armazem do Sal or Restaurante do Forte: two charming spots for dinner in Funchal.

Nina Andrade Design Centre: discover the creative universe of this well-known interior designer from Madeira and enjoy dinner and the views in its restaurant.

Quinta do Furão restaurant in Santana: spectacular views of the cliffs. An ideal spot for lunch. www.quintadofurao.com.

Arieiro Peak: the most impressive views of the island of Madeira. Funchal cable car: visit Monte and ride downhill at high speed in the famous wickerwork baskets expertly steered by carreiros. Girão Cliff: a breathtaking lookout spot, on the road to the south of the island.

Santana and its typical houses, a rural zone with stunningly beautiful landscape.

By Saioa Arellano