3 minute read

TANGIER, AN INTERNATIONAL CITY

DIEGO, OUR YOUNGEST FAN

Tangier is the queen of the Straits of Gibraltar and lies a mere fifteen kilometres from Spain. Muslims, Christian and Jews have lived together here for centuries. A prime setting for novels, poems and films, it has also served as a refuge for artists, philosophers, intellectuals, and as a neutral city during World War 2 it played host to spies, ambassadors and military personnel from both sides.

Tangier had been discovered much earlier by numerous civilisations whose surviving traces include the Phoenician tombs carved in rock, two together at times, on the Hafa clifftop, from where you can enjoy beautiful views over the Straits.

There has never been and never will be a city with such a special regime as Tangier, which enjoyed city-state status for thirty years. From the end of the 18th century until 1912 it was the diplomatic capital of the Kingdom of Morocco and the sole residence of countries with diplomatic relations with the sultan of Morocco, a situation that afforded it a cosmopolitan atmosphere.

When its status as a diplomatic city came to an end in 1912, Tangier’s international statute, covering a territory of 355 km2, further enhanced its uniqueness as a city-state. There had never been anything quite like the Tangier International Zone, with only Shanghai coming anywhere close, although a distant second in terms of complexity and sophistication. It retained this status until 1960 when the «Royal Charter» was abolished following Morocco’s full independence in 1956.

in Morocco

The city’s complex history, including a period under English occupation, has left a rich legacy in terms of urban features and recent investment and improvements by a government truly committed to restoring Tangier’s former splendour have resulted in impeccably straight and ultra-wide boulevards with perfect gardens, a modern port and a sandy beach stretching along the extensive bay, which is overlooked by tall new buildings and modern hotels belonging to the best-known international chains. Tangier also boasts a small but quaint international airport and flight connections to Rabat and Casablanca, as well as a cheap and recently-built high-speed train link.

The blend of cultures, epochs and splendours can be experienced and enjoyed in the architecture of the medina (old part), which has benefited from extensive renovation.

The medina has undergone massive transformation, with redundant elements removed from the walls to restore it to its former glory.

A walk through the medina is to walk through a small part of the city where you can soak up its history and admire the houses owned by painters and actors, as well as little art galleries where you can buy veritable gems of works of art. There are also cafés, some small some big, to drink tea or try the array of local and international dishes on offer. If you have a sweet tooth, you are in the ideal place: a thousand forms, smells and tastes will entice you, just as they do the many bees that converge on the counters filled with delicious Moroccan cakes and pastries.

Although intricate, the medina’s layout is not chaotic and its alleys are not as narrow as the ones you usually find in other medinas in Morocco. Here, the alleys are wider and perfectly paved and the houses are painstakingly painted in an immaculate white that can dazzle you in the sunshine.

The renovations carried out in the entire media are very impressive: although it retains its old flavour, the careful rehabilitation work is evident to the eye, especially in the walled part, which features palatial homes with wonderful architecture that are beautifully decorated in traditional style but whose interiors are, unfortunately, off limits unless you happen to know the owners. However, the small and beautifully preserved and decorated riads and restaurants in this walled district will prove a delight even for the most demanding visitors. Needless to say, fans of luxury and comfort will be more than satisfied with the top-quality hotels, among them the 5-star hotel belonging to Spain’s Barceló chain.

My recommendation is to walk around the medina in one go, experiencing each and every one of its corners but stopping off to enjoy the attractively-priced items offered by the local artisans, or to try a mint tea or coffee and cake, relaxing and savouring the views. You can also eat in one of the wide range of bars and restaurants serving up a wealth of local and international dishes that cater for all budgets and tastes.

If you come across street artists or acrobats, a common sight in medinas, don’t forget to give them a round of applause and a few coins as I am sure they will have provided much enjoyment for both young and old.

Tangier

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