FROM ‘BELLE ÉPOQUE’ TO THE PRESENT: A JOURNEY THROUGH SAN SEBASTIÁN’S ARCHITECTURE

San Sebastián is beloved not just for its beaches and gastronomy. Architecture is one of the major reasons why this city on the Basque Country coast is considered so beautiful. From its prosperous days and the splendour of the belle époque up to the present day, the city has hosted a range of architectural trends, each with its own specific characteristics. Trends that have left behind them an array of buildings which we can enjoy today.

It was no surprise that Queen Maria Cristina of Habsburg Lorraine succumbed to the charms of San Sebastián and chose it as her favourite summer residence. This occurred at the end of the 19th century and proved a massive boost for the city, which became a magnet for aristocrats keen to be seen there.

Those years have left their legacy in the shape of various works of architecture in a distinct French style that remind us of San Sebastián’s own belle époque. The city’s architecture has changed over time, leaving different imprints down the years until the present day.

San Sebastián at the height of its splendour: the ‘belle époque’

At the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, San Sebastián saw the arrival of different architectural styles such as neogothic, classicism and modernism. One of the most famous buildings surviving from that era is La Perla, the former high-society spa on La Concha Beach. The original building was made of wood but was replaced by a new structure which was inaugurated officially by King Alfonso XIII in 1916. The current building last underwent renovations in 1994 and is now once again a spa and sports centre, a throwback to its earliest days. The seafront promenade’s railings, streetlamps and two obelisks (with a clock and barometer) are among the iconic symbols of the city today.

At the end of the La Concha beach we find the Town Hall and the Carousel Palace next to the Alderdi Eder Gardens. Although it may seem strange, the current Town Hall Building was originally San Sebastián’s Grand Casino. Its various salons –among them the Grand Salon– hosted politicians, writers and artists from high society. The building was the venue for balls, parties and games such as roulette and bacarra, which were banned back then. When all casinos in Spain were shut down in 1924 during the Primo de Rivera dictatorship, the Grand Casino was forced to close its doors and did not reopen until it was converted into the Town Hall in 1947.

Further away from La Concha along the river Urumea stand the Victoria Eugenia Theatre and María Cristina Hotel, both of which opened in 1912. The theatre features a blend of neo-renaissance and neo-plateresque styles, with a particularly impressive sandstone facade decorated with arches, lintels, Corinthian columns and four busts representing opera, tragedy, comedy and drama. The Victoria Eugenia has hosted countless plays, films and performances of dance and music, and for years has been the main venue of the city’s famous International Film Festival. For its part, the hotel was a favourite with members of high society during their summers spent in the city. Today it is also used for film stars attending the festival (who walk along a red carpet to access the theatre).

San Sebasti N

From 12,000 points one-way or earn up to 1200 points one-way.

For terms and conditions, see bintermas.com Ask our cabin crew for a leaflet or register with bintermas.com and start earning on your Binter flights and with more than 30 programme partners.

Simple geometric forms and concrete: rationalism

The ostentatious María Cristina Bridge with its four golden sculptures is the last of the belle époque works we come across before encountering the next architectural style: rationalism. Characterised by its desire for practicality and use of materials such as concrete, steel and glass, it marks a clear departure from the ornate style of previous years. A perfect example is the La Equitativa building which is located at the end of Santa Catalina bridge and was inaugurated in 1933.

Its rounded corner, designed for improved visibility and light, is an illustration of the key role of simple geometric forms in this current of architecture. Another example is the Club Náutico (Yacht Club), which dates back to 1929 and was very avant-garde in its day.

Present-day works

More recent architectural works include the Kursaal (1999), a conference centre with two giant translucent glass cubes that represent two beached rocks; the Basque Culinary Center (2011), headquarters of the University of Mondragón which teaches gastronomy-related degrees and whose design recalls white dishes stacked harmoniously on top of each other; and the Musikene (2016), the Basque Country’s Higher School of Music Studies, with its straight lines and attractive contrast between gold and black. All these show that San Sebastián’s architecture is constantly evolving in search of new buildings that will stand the test of time.

GETTING THERE:

Binter flies direct to San Sebastián from Gran Canaria twice weekly, on Thursdays and Sundays.

WHERE TO STAY:

Barceló Costa Vasca 4*: recently renovated and excellently located. The city centre is within easy reach along the Playa de la Concha. Parador de Hondarribia 4*: also known as the Castillo de Carlos V (Charles V Castle), the building dates back to the 10th century and you will feel as if you are in a genuine medieval fortress.

WHAT TO EAT:

Great food is an absolute certainty in San Sebastián. Its countless pintxos bars, gastronomy societies and restaurants, including some run by the best chefs in Spain and the world, are a guarantee of success. Top-quality seasonal ingredients are the hallmark of the city’s cuisine. On the menus you will find traditional dishes such as oven-baked txangurro (crab), kokotxas (hake cheeks) in green sauce, koxkera-style hake, clams mariniere, squid cooked in its ink, or oven-baked roast bream, along with more avant-garde dishes.

MUST SEES:

Stroll along one of Europe’s best beaches, the playa de la Concha. Pamper yourself with a few hours of relaxation in the La Perla Thalassotherapy Centre overlooking the sea. Relax in the elegant gardens of the Miramar Palace, which were designed by Pierre Ducasse. Wander the cobbled streets of the old part and discover the colourful pintxos bars. Visit the Romanesque altarpiece of the church of St Vincent, the city’s oldest. Admire the architecture of the city’s elegant and eclectic Ensanche district. Have tea at the María Cristina Hotel, which has accommodated aristocrats, intellectuals and film stars since 1912.

Pause in front of the facade of the Victoria Eugenia Theatre, the venue for the city’s main cultural events. Head up Mount Igueldo in the old cable car and enjoy the vintage flavour of its amusement park. Take in sunsets with the best views of the city. Feel the sea spray as you watch the waves toy with the Eduardo Chillida sculpture, Peine del viento. Experience the surfing environment at playa de Zurriola. Check out the cultural events at Tabakalera, the International Centre for Contemporary Culture, or take in one of the concerts at the Kursaal, home of the San Sebastián International Film Festival.