ESSAOUIRA: WIND, LIGHT AND SAND

Essaouira, or Mogador as it was known during the days of the French Protectorate, is situated on a small rocky platform that juts into the sea like a peninsula. It stands under the watchful gaze of the socalled Purple Isles, a name given to them by the Phoenicians who discovered this enclave when searching for sea snails of the murex genus, from which purple dye was obtained. They established a type of factory on these small islands situated opposite the city. This gives us some idea of its importance as far back as the 7th century B.C.

Visitors are immediately struck by the fortified city and its imposing defensive walls which are clearly of Portuguese origin, as many who are familiar with Morocco’s Atlantic and Mediterranean coastline will realise; an influence seen also in places such as Safi, El Jadida, Azzemour (with its lovely town centre, also markedly Portuguese in style), Rabat, Asilah, etc. However, Essaouira stands apart from these in that its streets are arranged in a pattern of straight lines. Although narrow, they are much wider than you would normally find in a Moroccan medina; moreover, you can see a clear hierarchy among them, with the main street being wider than the others, which gradually become smaller although without the overall layout becoming lost. -

Essaouira became the most important commercial port on Morocco’s Atlantic coast

While walking around the walled part, we will come across perfectly preserved bronze canons complete with mounts. A closer look reveals that they are of Spanish origin, having been made in Seville and Barcelona.

Although the city’s earliest origins are Phoenician, Essaouira’s commercial potential also attracted Greeks, Carthaginians and Romans. In Roman times, the islands’ purple dye acquired great fame throughout the Empire and the city was home also to an important fish salting industry. In the 10th century, the city founded on solid ground became known as Amogdul, after its patron Morabito Sidi Mogdul. When the Portuguese established themselves in the early 15th century, its name was changed to Mogdura (Mogador). It retained its commercial importance but the Portuguese do - minion was short-lived and the city was reconquered by the Saadians in the mid16th century. This marked the beginning of the decline of its trading status given that nearly all sea traffic was diverted to the port of Agadir.

In 1764, Alaouite sultan Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdellah was looking for a commercial port as an alternative to Agadir, a rebellious city that challenged his power openly and monopolised trade with Europe. He directed one of his prisoners, French engineer Théodore Cornut, to design a new city, together with defensive walls and a port, and was so happy with the outcome that he named the new city As-Sawira, which means «the beautifully designed», «the grillshaped city» or «small square», depending on which source you consult.

Essaouira became the most important commercial seaport on Morocco’s Atlantic coast, a meeting point for European traders and Saharan caravan traders. It boasted a large presence of European merchants and diplomats who looked after the commercial interests of their respective countries and it was also home to a sizeable Jewish community.

Today Essaouira has a population of 75,000 and its economy is largely dependent on tourism, fishing and handmade crafts. Its well-preserved old part is full of artisan shops and small eateries offering local and international food, where you will be served not only traditional Moroccan dishes but fish cooked in a thousand ways, including my personal favourite: grilled simply on hot embers.

In June the city hosts its internationally famous Gnawa Music Festival, which attracts tourists from all over the world. Don’t worry if you miss it, however, as the streets are full of buskers all year.

You will marvel at the products fashioned by the local artisans from sandarac wood, which has a delicious perfume. There are designs to suit all tastes and wallets - from the simplest to the most intricate, decorated and pricey. There are also shops that specialise in selling pottery glazed in typical dark Berber green. Each piece is made individually and is therefore uniquely special.

The multitude of art galleries dotted throughout the medina, the walls, the old munitions stores, ramparts, steps … are testimony to a thriving local culture that is a real treat for visitors.

On the northern tip of the medina between Zerktouni and Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdellah avenues lies the old Jewish quarter, which is currently undergoing reconstruction and redevelopment. The city has always had a large and impor- tant Jewish community and you can visit its different synagogues, where the caretaker/guard/curator will be only too happy to tell you about it and its history. Admission is free although I like to show my appreciation to someone who has shown you around and explained the place’s history and the stories behind it.

Due to the permanent offshore winds, the beaches near the city are highly recommended for kitesurfing, windsurfing and other water sports. The world famous Sidi Kaouki beach is approximately 27 km from Essaouira and its shrine of the same name is a magnet for surfers of all nationalities.

Essaouira’s own beach is the best for year-round swimming as it is the most sheltered and the slope of the sand is very gentle, which ensures a pleasant and safe dip in the sea. It has a modern promenade, new hotels and lots of small and not so small beach bars from which to enjoy cozy views of the splendid sunsets. At the southern end of the beach, you can ride a camel or horse and even hire quads to explore the dunes.

The Diabat beach on the other side of the mouth of the River Oued Ksob offers magnificent dunes and views over the city, particularly at sundown. You can also see the remains of an 18th century fortress built by sultan Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdel-lah, which must have been luxurious and enormous in its day.

The area was taken over by hippies in the 1960s following a visit by the legendary Jimi Hendrix, reminders of which feature prominently in the small shops. A walk on the beach and dunes, or a ride on horseback, is recommended especially when the sun is setting.

Needless to say, Essaouira is one of my favourite cities in Morocco. It has everything: history, events, artisans, views, gastronomy, music, and an atmosphere that, while retaining its Moroccan essence, makes it a cosmopolitan city that attracts all nationalities, cultures and economies. –

Essaouira

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By Yasmina Pérez Molina