SUNDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2017
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a feast for the senses
Ocean Wise chef Ned Bell pushes for sustainable seafood in new cookbook see page 22 ALSO INSIDE:
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Okanagan Crush Pad’s natural wines page 23 A special feature of the
Authentic Food with a French Savoir-Faire!
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SUNDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2017
Chef Ned Bell cooks with a conscience
New cookbook, Lure, presents sustainable seafood recipe options
Born on the lake in Penticton and raised in Victoria and Vancouver, he’s always been close to the water. Bell began working as a dishwasher at Avenue Grill in Kerrisdale at the age of 14 and right out of high school entered Dubrulle French Culinary School to get a start on a career that is now into its third decade. “I’ve been very fortunate from the beginning,” says Bell. “I’ve had great mentors and just love it and that love for this business is crucial because it’s not always the easiest business.” Fresh out of cooking school he got an apprenticeship at Le Crocodile under chef Michel Jacob. Rob Feenie was also there as a sous chef and when Feenie left to open Lumiere in 1995 he brought Bell along with him. “It was fast and furious,” Bell remembers. “Rob was the first new-breed Canadian chef who became recognized outside of Canada. He is an incredibly talented cook first and foremost. It was right place, right time. The Food Network didn’t even exist back then.” Bell moved back and forth across Canada during his first decade as a chef further expanding his culinary skills. In 2008, he
JOHN GOODMAN jgoodman@nsnews.com
Ned Bell’s knowledge of seafood runs deep. That’s obvious on every page of his new cookbook, Lure: Sustainable Seafood Recipes from the West Coast, which takes an encyclopedic look at everything connected with Pacific Ocean fisheries.
It’s just over a year since Bell was named executive chef of Ocean Wise but he’s been involved with fish and food in some form or another for most of his life.
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Spectacular view of Vancouver harbour & city skyline. Enjoy excellent food in a Brew Pub atmosphere. 20 draught beers and ciders, featuring local microbreweries & our own 6 craft-brews. Happy Hour daily 11am-6pm! Brunch served weekends and holidays & free pool every Sunday! Darts, pool, foosball, lotto games, 11 big screen TVs & heated patio.
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was named one of Western Living magazine’s “Top 40 Foodies Under 40” while he was based in Kelowna at the Cabana Bar and Grille. In 2011, he took over the Four Seasons and YEW kitchens in Vancouver and made a definitive culinary statement by launching a new sustainable seafood concept. “As a chef I started to realize back in ’97 we were cooking the heck out of unsustainable Lure: Sustainable Seafood seafood because we just didn’t Recipes from the West know better,” says Bell. “We Coast by Ned Bell with didn’t even know that it was Valerie Howes. Figure 1 Publishing, Hardcover, 240 unsustainable. We were just pages, $38.95. cooking Chilean sea bass, bluefin tuna, anything we could get our hands on for that matter.” The sustainable seafood movement is only two decades old with the pioneering efforts of organizations such as the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch and the Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise helping to raise awareness of the problems affecting the world’s oceans and fisheries. “This is a newish converSEAWEED BROWNIES sation when it comes to the words sustainable seafood or healthy lakes, oceans and rivers,” says Bell. “We are curious about our foods and I liken it to the organics movement of 20 years ago. Organics used to be the dark lit corner of the grocery store and now it dominates the grocery store. My hope is that sustainable seafood will be the only conversation we are having in less than a decade.” PLANKED SALMON As executive chef at Ocean Wise, Bell has been given the opportunity to push the conversation further and Lure is his manifesto. “Climate change and overfishing are the biggest threats to our world’s oceans,” he says. “We need to pay more attention to our impact. There will be more plastics in the ocean by 2050 than fish. Why don’t we start paying attention to singleuse plastics? The ocean is the most important resource we CRAB TACOS have on earth for humans. Full stop. Without it, we can’t grow anything that we consume.” Bell could have put together a cookbook a long time ago but preferred to wait for the right moment. “I really wanted to do a book that had some teeth to it,” he says. He’s written the book with Valerie Howes and partnered with some of his favourite “Ocean Guardians” (Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch, Seachoice, Ocean Wise and the Marine Stewardship Council) to take sustainable seafood advocacy to the next level. “Two billion people rely on the ocean for their daily source of protein,” he says. “If you live away from a coast you probably don’t think that much about oceans. I call (my approach) the arms of the octopus. I want to be the body of the octopus that hopefully is able to influence many different conversations around ocean’s health, species’ health, ecosystem health and, at the end of the day, human health. “I want us to eat more seafood and I want to feed down the food chain. In North America we only eat four species of fish: tuna, salmon, some sort of white fish and shrimp, by far, is the most consumed seafood. Shrimp because it’s the cheapest by a longshot. We’re addicted to cheap. I understand that. Life is expensive.” Bell would like to see more plant-based, nutrient-dense
See Lure page 24
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2017
DISH | A23
north shore news nsnews.com
Okanagan Crush Pad makes things naturally
Favourite Indian Restaurant on the North Shore!
TIM PAWSEY Contributing writer
Are you tuned in to natural wines? You may well be, sooner or later.
Former North Shore resident Christine Coletta is among a handful of B.C. winery owners and winemakers leading the charge for natural wines. She’s the co-founder of Haywire / Okanagan Crush Pad, and over the years has been a big part of the changing face of B.C. winemaking. What’s a natural wine, you might ask? Essentially, it means that the wine in your glass is in the purest possible form, the closest it can be to the fruit that was in the vineyard. First and foremost the vineyard is farmed organically or bio-dynamically. Most likely it’s made with wild yeast, with no sulphur added, and probably finished unfiltered and unfined – minimal intervention. From the outset, Okanagan Crush Pad has followed a different path, being the province’s largest user of concrete fermenters and, more recently, amphora vessels. The winery is also among a small cadre of
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Christine Coletta (left) and Matt Dumayne, winemaker, at Okanagan Crush Pad with their amphorae. PHOTO SUPPLIED TIM PAWSEY
Canadians who attend RAW WINE — the U.K.’s rapidly growing natural wine fair, now also in New York, Berlin and as of this year, Los Angeles. RAW (as its website states) “celebrates wines with emotion. Wines that have a humanlike, or living, presence. They are also wines that are an authentic expression of a place. They
are the polar opposite of industrialised, big-brand, manufactured, nothing-butalcoholic-grape-juice wines, that use imagery and suggestion to sell a product.” I’m always impressed by chief winemaker Matt Dumayne’s wines when I taste them at OCP. And that
See Vineyard page 24
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A24 | DISH
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SUNDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2017
Lure launch planned for Cook Culture on Lonsdale
From page 22
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Christine Coletta and Steve Lornie built Okanagan Crush Pad in Summerland, B.C., on Switchback Organic Vineyard in 2011. PHOTO SUPPLIED LIONEL TRUDEL
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Honouring Our
From page 23
VETERANS
Because we are proud of the men and women that are serving our country or served in the past, the North Shore News would like to pay tribute to our military personnel.
Cpl. Glen Windsor Served in the Canadian Army during World War II. Member of the Red Deer Branch of the Legion in Alberta with Member Title of Trooper. Cpl. Windsor passed away on June 11, 1997 at the age of 80.
Vineyard set high in north Okanagan desert
Submit a photo of yourself or a loved one who served our country and include a name and a 25 word or less biography to be published in the North Shore News or in our online photo galleries at nsnews.com/galleries in early November.
Please email submissions to display@nsnews.com with the subject line ‘Veteran Photo Submission’ no later than Sunday, October 29, 2017.
was certainly the case last month, when several made my 90 point plus list. But what I wasn’t ready for was the first taste of 2016 Free Form Red, a 100 per cent Pinot Noir made in amphora. A couple of things to note: this is the first Pinot to come from Haywire’s spectacular, rabbitbrush–ringed Garnet Valley property, one of the highest elevation vineyards in the Okanagan – and certified organic. It’s also from last year’s vintage and has never been in oak. That’s now the norm at Okanagan Crush Pad, which has only a smattering of barrels remaining, used only for its clients’ wines. I was struck by a purity of fruit, both on the nose and palate, as well as the mouth filling structure but also elegance of the wine, woven through with a beautiful savoury element and a seamless expression of Pinot. 93 points. $55. Look for it later this fall. A natural wine tasting prior to last month’s B.C. Wine Institute sponsored Colours fall tasting showcased a number of other natural wines, hard to find but worth tracking down. They include: ! Bella Wines Gamay Noir Ancestrale Sparkling 2016. Pretty, medium salmon in the glass with wild berry notes on top, followed by yeast and
lees notes on the palate and more berry notes evolving. 90 points. c. $40 ! Little Farm Pied de Cuvée Wild Ferment Riesling 2016. Made with the purest form of natural yeast available, “We dump it (the grapes) in a bucket and leave it in the vineyard” (to ferment), says Rhys Pender, whose partner Alishan Driediger is the winemaker. Definite Riesling varietal nose, with baked and apple skin notes and a firm mineral undertone through the finish. 91 points. $26 ! Sperling Vineyards Amber Pinot Gris 2016. Quite opaque in the glass, with rusty towards caramel colour, tropical and stonefruit on the nose with a pleasing juiciness on the palate, a touch of acidity and a little heat in the finish. 90 points. $90 ! Tinhorn Creek Innovation Series Kerner Orange Wine 2016. A good natural wine example, lifted stone fruit and citrus nose, with an orange, apricot and peach palate, sporting a savoury edge and fresh acidity through the finish. 91 points. Only at select restaurants. A hallmark wine for many reasons, not the least of which is that the vines have been pulled out. We’ll just have to wait to see if the Innovation Series continues under the new ownership of Andrew Peller. Hopefully it will.
ingredients in meals garnished with sustainable seafood. The chef has a challenge in his cookbook he calls the ‘52 and 12.’ “I want people to eat sustainable seafood once a week for the next year and then once a month I want them to try something from the ocean they haven’t had before, whether that’s geoduck or sea urchin or seaweed. There’s 10,000 edible plants in the ocean which we could and should be eating. “The ocean is this incredible resource we know very little about. We know more about the moon than we do about the bottom of the ocean. It’s something we need to explore and I think we can begin by asking: ‘Is this seafood sustainable?’ The book is hopefully going to get people to cook more seafood at home. It’s not a book by a chef for chefs. It’s a book written for Canadians to cook more fish at home. There’s some ballsy recipes in there that some people won’t try and then there’s a lot of recipes people could have as part of their regular repertoire.” Lure focuses on Pacific Ocean species from California to Alaska through a Canadian perspective. Further books may tackle Atlantic, Arctic and freshwater fisheries. Bell is hosting a number of launch events for Lure including a sold-out evening at Lonsdale’s Cook Culture on Nov. 20 featuring a fourcourse tasting menu.
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