Silk, Linen, Cotton

SILK, LINEN, COTTON INTRODUCTION When we get dressed, we don't have to do it so much to wear something, but we have to choose the right fabrics, clothes for the right occasion and the exact match. This is why we present three fabrics that are always at the forefront in the world of fashion and everyday wear: silk, linen, cotton.

These three fabrics are used purely in the summer and mid-season, giving a sense of freshness and lightness to those who wear them, therefore wearable all day without problems. In many cases they also dress for the evening, as far as linen and cotton are concerned, the situation is different for silk. You have always seen women and men use silk for style and sophistication in various types of outfits. Silk has an incredible history for how it was born, linen, a purely vegetable fabric, is the oldest of the three, cotton, with a very sad history behind it, for its harvesting in the plantations where it was originally grown. In short, a beautiful adventure within these three stories that will enrich you in the knowledge of these three fabrics.

SILK THE SILKWORM Silk is a rare vegetable fiber that can be woven into cloth and also used as a natural dye. It is made from silkworm cocoons and the silkworms themselves are very intelligent creatures, born from some species of Asian moths, feed on mulberry leaves and the production of the thread takes place thanks to two glands within which a chemical synthesis of a protein type takes place. The produced substance is eliminated by two small cracks placed on the sides of the insect’s mouth, in the form of very thin burr that in contact with the air instantly gel. At this point he starts making movements with his head that ideally reproduce the shape of an eight. So millimeter after millimeter takes shape the cocoon of raw silk whose

average length goes from 300 to 900 meters. Each silkworm can produce many hanks and at the end of this exhausting weaving work, after about 3 or 4 days, it turns into a butterfly. The moth since the dawn of time was one of the most mysterious and enigmatic insects. At first people realized that the insect was a source of food, then, after the discovery that silk could be extracted from the caterpillar of this moth, productivity had a huge impact on their environment and local economies. The silkworm is also called "mulberry bombex" or "Bombix Mori". Legend has it that the birth of bachiculture was the work of Empress Xi Ling Shi, who walked in the garden during the spring afternoon, the young housekeeper noticed a strange caterpillar. Touching him, a thin and shiny thread came out, which the insect began to weave around the finger of the empress who shortly after became a cocoon. The life of a silkworm can last only 12 months; is not only an animal, it has been domesticated by man for over 10,000 years in the production of silk. This fabric is a material that we now understand and use widely: it is a cornerstone of clothing, mainly the Western one, but also in many other contexts. The Chinese have been weaving silk for thousands of years and are very adept at this. They use a silkworm to produce a fiber that has been appreciated for its absolute softness, strength, beauty and versatility in its many applications. The world’s largest silkworm factory is located at the Duanmen Silk Factory in Shanghai, where thousands of female cocoons are collected each year by 7 million female workers, all living together in a huge industrial building, with each cocoon weighing 1 pound. The whole process takes eight hours and consumes 11 tons of raw materials including 1 ton of fertilizer per day. After being processed, these cocoons are then spun into threads that will eventually become dresses or accessories such as scarves, gloves or bags, essentially creating a whole range of luxury goods with the help of this simple creature! This factory produces about 400 million pieces per year for a value of $ 20 billion per year. Always considered a symbol of nobility and wealth, silk has long been a privilege that only the ancient Chinese emperors, priests and a few other lucky ones could afford.

HISTORY

Silk has been used for centuries as a luxurious fabric for clothes and other objects. The first known silk fabric was made between the sixth and fifth centuries B.C. (the first testimonies date back to 2500 B.C.) in China, where we find evidence of its use as a material for clothing and as a means for lifting weights. The earliest examples of silk production/manufacture can be traced back to China at least 3000 years ago, although there are also several examples in Japan dating back almost 1000 years. It was only in 1700 A.D. that European scientists learned how silk works, which led to the development of machine-made silk fabrics. Historians say that the first traces of trade between Europe and Asia, date back to about 4000 years ago, in the Shang era the merchants imported jade from today’s Xinjiang.

Around the 1st millennium BC, the silk trade to Siberia had already begun, through the "Giansu Corridor." Thus a first northern route was defined. A discovery has been made in the tomb of an Egyptian pharaoh, dating back to around 1070 BC, this suggests possible trade along what will become the Silk Road. Later, Marco Polo between 1254 and 1324, traveled along the Silk Road with his father and uncle. In his story "The Million" he spoke of a

special pass that allowed him to move freely in those regions. These passports were issued by the Yuan government, allowing merchants to move freely within the country. Thanks to this and other facilitations, the trades knew their period of maximum splendor and the silk continued to be exported in exchange for other goods such as: cattle, perfumes, precious stones. With the fall of the Yuan Empire and the rise of the Ming dynasty, new political and commercial balances were created, to this was added the spread of silk production techniques in Europe, already after the year 1000.

In the thirteenth century d. C., with the expansion of the Islamic world, the silkworm arrived in Sicily and Italy developed its own production that later became European. The Ming Empire then, chose a policy of closure and interrupted trade and also closed the Silk Road, this led other nations, who imported silk from China, to encourage their own production. It was alone in 1700 A.D. that European scientists learned how to made silk, which led to the development of machine-made silk fabrics. For centuries, Europe has been an important market for Chinese fabrics because they could be sold cheap and exported across the border without duties, silk fabrics were available throughout the territory, were sold in any market where there were customers willing to buy them. In Europe and America but especially in England during the late 18th century, silver impregnated with silver nitrate was poured on raw silk to form sheets of silver foil, which were then turned into paper yarns or used to weave them into cloth. The remaining silver nitrate was left on the surface to prevent oxidation of the tissue; this process was called "silvering". Many silk garments were produced in mills throughout Europe during the 18th century and many were manufactured in domestic mills of Richard Cartwright, on his estates in Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire. Before being imported to London, William III declared that evening dresses would no longer be worn except at formal dances and events, this happened until 1800 AD, so all imports were banned. Since then, the beauty of silk has become the symbol of luxury and it still is today.

Incredibly luxurious: every square meter cost about 1,000 silver coins! One way to capture this quality was through carefully chosen yarns.

CHARACTERISTICS AND USE

In Japan, in addition to its use to make garments with sleeves facing outwards, silkworm products were also used as primary material to make Buddhist garments; these garments were called "silk robes". Silk fashion is a worldwide phenomenon, most of us has no idea that once silk was an important part of the wardrobe of all classes and this all started over a thousand years ago. Silk was, in fact, widely used by the Romans as well as the Arabs and the Byzantines, who at the time were among the most advanced civilizations in world trade. Silk was, in fact, widely used by the Romans as well as the Arabs and the Byzantines, who at the time were among the most advanced civilizations in world trade. It is still a popular fabric today, used in a variety of fashion items such as shirts, dresses and scarves. In addition to being expensive and luxurious, pure silks have many other advantages: • The silks can be washed repeatedly with great care; • are extremely light; • easy to wash with neutral detergents; • do not shrink from washing the ideal is to keep them in dark, dry places and sheltered from sunlight because this fabric tends to fade or turn yellow easily. Some of the most iconic designers have used silk in their collections, a common material for clothing. However, not everyone opts for this choice, as a rule of thumb, if you want to use silk in a brand’s collection, this must turn out to be an exception. The characteristics of silk are a high hygroscopicity, that is, it absorbs moisture without giving a wet feeling to the touch and our skin breathes easily, is a good conductor of heat in summer makes us feel cool and in winter keeps us warm, is an excellent insulator against electricity so it is not charged with electrostatic energy and in contact with the flame burns slowly. Silk is mainly used to produce fine fabrics in the following fields: curtains and upholstery, clothing such as ties, shirts, scarves and underwear; also used in sacred and liturgical furnishings. The colors of silk range from optical white, to ivory, to écru, the shiny appearance that fibers have is due to their prism shape that allows silk fabrics to refract the

incoming light from different angles, thus producing different colors, is perceived as the most beautiful and the most elegant of all natural fibers.

Silk is queen of autumn because with the arrival of autumn, officially opens the changing season in your wardrobe: via tops, costumes and Bermuda shorts, space to shirts, coats and scarves. First of all, it is ideal for the intermediate season and then it is shiny, natural, soft and refined, characteristics that make it a perfect material for clothes and accessories that can illuminate any outfit. Yes, because, silk would have a beneficial effect on the skin as it avoids the appearance of so-called "sleep wrinkles" that, as demonstrated by a study, are produced by the pressure of the sheets during sleep and become visible from the age of 30. The processing and the ennobling of this material see, then, in the district of Como an Italian excellence, the city of Como, become the world center in the production of silk, where the largest productions, processing and design are concentrated, will become one of the most important and international centers for silk processing factories. Here the production of silk ties, accessory to wear all year that rhymes with elegance and quality, the foulards, famous silk handkerchief that adapts to the personality of the wearer, scarves, shirts, dresses, to make any look shine, from the most casual to the most sophisticated. Silk, the great protagonist of the catwalks and on the red carpet, among the celebrities who have not resisted its charm. You probably own a piece of clothing or a silk scarf/shawl, you could wear it right now, you would feel the softness and lightness of this fabric and you would not leave it anymore.

Silk is a timeless fabric with a long history and many uses in today’s fashion world, with this phrase we have summarized all the features of this fabric that will never die, but will always be present in cabinets and boutiques around the world, as long as there is someone who grows the silkworm and makes sure it is produced. If we think that from a small animal like a butterfly, then a caterpillar, such a perfect thing can be born, it may seem impossible to us, but with the intervention of man this thing has become possible, otherwise it would have been lost, so thanking nature, but also human intervention, we will have at our disposal a fabric so precious and light that will always be at our disposal to give us elegance, named SILK.

LINEN Introduction Linen fabric is a popular choice for many applications due to its durability and attractive appearance. With the growth of technology, it is becoming increasingly important to be able to produce linen fabrics in the way, In fact, the production of linen fabrics has become one of the most important challenges that designers and manufacturers of textile products today face.

Linen is one of the most resistant fabrics that exist thanks to its cellulosic component that reinforces the fibers, the not too tight texture makes the fabric breathable, light and cool to the touch. It has insulating and thermoregulating properties and moisture absorption, which make it the ideal fabric for clothing and for household linen. Also called noble material because, being natural fiber, it is hypoallergenic, so it does not irritate the skin and does not attract dust, is biodegradable and recyclable. Its uses are multiple from fashion to, bed linen and towels to the kitchen and for furnishing such as fabric for curtains, cushions, upholstery of sofas and armchairs or for carpets and tapestries. Linen is a fabric of great beauty, bright and able to acquire great importance to the colors and chromatic effects. Crumpling is one of its features and this for some is its flaw. But many designers have turned this property into a quality with pleated effects and natural embossing.

HISTORY Linen is the oldest and most widespread textile artifact, used already six thousand years before Christ. Of linen bandages, the Egyptians covered the mummies of the pharaohs because already then it was considered the most valuable among the natural fibers. The Phoenicians, famous merchants and navigators, bought flax in Egypt to export it to Ireland, England and Brittany; thanks to these movements, the fiber has landed and spread in the European continen. Linen has experienced an incredible development in Europe, but during the Roman period, the cultivation and processing of this fiber has developed throughout the Empire, the Romans were the first to use it not only for clothing but also for the home. In the Middle Ages linen

reached the peak of its expansion in the continent, especially in central northern Europe. With the Renaissance the taste for a refined lifestyle, has meant that the use of linen in everyday life also expanded to the production of sheets and shirts. During the religious wars, from the mid-1500s to the mid-1600s, thousands of artisan weavers were sent into exile in England and Ireland, thus bringing the golden age of flax to these countries. While in Russia and Poland, at the same time, it made its first appearance on the markets. Thus the entry of linen into Europe was completed by becoming a very used fabric for all its characteristics of strength, beauty and nobility.

CHARACTERISTICS AND USE

Flax is classified according to the degree of fineness of the fibres: fine yarns require fine fibres, suitable for the production of fine canvas, called Baptist canvas and for lace; medium-fine fibres for ordinary fabrics, such as sheet, towels and garments, for ordinary canvas coarse fibres will be required, such kitchen cloths and tablecloths. Of all this fiber should not be thrown anything, in fact, flax tow, which is a by-product of the article where there are processes necessary to separate and divide the fiber from the straw, is used for the creation of rope and twine and for the production of paper.

Its properties are these: -Offers the best compromise between freshness and the ability to maintain a constant heat.

- The highest degree of water and moisture absorption is achieved in combination with the highest degree of perspiration and ventilation, a high permeability of air and steam.

-Ensures excellent tolerance to even the most sensitive skin being hypoallergic.

-Compared to other natural fabrics, it has one of the highest comfort ratings, especially in summer, when you need lightness, freshness and breathability.

Linen is a 100 percent biodegradable and recyclable material. In Europe 90 thousand hectares of flax have been cultivated, mainly from southern Normandy to northern France, up to Belgium and the Netherlands, they account for 80% of global production with about 7500 European farms dedicated to its cultivation, In fact, flax grown in Western Europe is known to be the best in the world, this level of excellence is the result of the combination of three beneficial factors: the availability of suitable soils, favourable climatic conditions and the knowledge of expert liniculturers attentive to the quality of the cultivation and the spinning and weaving process. Considered a model fiber, compared to cotton crops you save 650 thousand cubic meters in water and 300 tons of plant protection products because it needs only rainwater and does not require the use of pesticides, according to a report by the European Commission. In addition, the plantations absorb 250 thousand tons of CO2 every year. Linen is therefore

the best witness of sustainability and beauty that together are the winning values for a quality product. . Its one big flaw, which for many has become a value, is the fact that it creases and ironing it is not easy because it immediately loses its crease, what is the solution? Accept it as it is, with its folds and creases, which give just the signature to the fabric. Of all textile fibres, flax is among the most consistent, given its high tensile strength, and is classified immediately after special steels. It is a tenacity mainly due to its morphology: flax fibres are grouped together in an exemplary tubular structure in which the longitudinal architecture prevails, the high cellulosic component strengthens the fibers and its composition also explains the weak recovery capacity of the fibers after bending that contrasts with the good tensile strength. The fabric then acquires sound and insulation qualities particularly appreciated in the furniture industry. But it is not over, linen, as a natural fiber, has hypoallergenic characteristics, in fact it is a healthy matter, does not irritate the skin and has also been demonstrated the beneficial action that exerts for the remission of certain dermatological diseases. Antistatic, does not attract dust, anti-pilling, does not degrade with use. These are real advantages that are enhanced, completed and supported by all the productions and consumers then, this fabric today is is used in all its characteristics, in fashion, in furnishing accessories and in all the other ways in which it lends itself, this is THE LINEN.

COTTON Cotton is a 100% natural fabric, biodegradable, ecological, recyclable, with a composition of 95% cellulose. It is a lightweight, soft material and has high absorption properties, but it is also durable and therefore perfect for carrying delicate objects without the danger of ruining them. It is a lightweight fabric, resists heat and washes well, but burns easily. It is porous, absorbs moisture and sweat and keeps body temperature constant, not from felting. Cotton is grown in warm countries, in which periods of high humidity alternate and other very dry, necessary for the ripening phase. The areas of the world where more cotton is grown are the South of

the United States, South America, North and West Africa, Central Asia.

Cotton is a textile fiber, made from cotton wool is the soft ball that wraps the seeds of the plant of the genus Gossypium, when the fruit reaches maturity. Its weaving originates in prehistory: fragments of cotton fabric dating back to the 5th millennium B.C. were found in the civilization of the Indus valley. The term "cotton" comes from the Arabic "Katun" "land of conquest", can reach over 1.50 m. high and has a long life. Cotton is a treasure that nature offers us, it belongs to the category of natural materials, already present in nature. Cotton is a treasure that nature offers us, it belongs to the category of natural materials, already present in nature.

A category that differs from artificial materials, obtained by the chemical transformation of a natural raw material, such as viscose and synthetic materials, derived from hydrocarbons, such as polyester. This fiber is a natural material of plant origin, such as linen and silk.

HISTORY It is currently the most used textile fiber in the world, it has been grown in India for more than 3000 years. It is also assumed that this tissue was already known to the Egyptians more than 12,000 years before Christ.

Finally, archaeologists have also identified cotton fragments in Mexico that date back to 7000 years ago. It is a plant present in many continents including America, where the Maya, the Aztecs and the Incas used this fiber already thousands of years before the birth of Christ. The cotton industry developed in Europe instead, cotton arrived initially in Greece and it was the Arabs who brought it to our continent, around 351 BC, during the Empire of Alexander the Great. In the following centuries in Europe cotton remains a luxury imported product, especially since in 1400, a French company was founded, which traded in painted fabrics called "Indians", which were very interesting. The term "Indian" is still used today, just like "Persian" which is its synonym. Unfortunately, the history of cotton is linked to slavery, which in the seventeenth century provided the main workforce in America for cultivation, in Louisiana are born the first large cotton plantations, where slaves are forced to collect plants destined to be processed. Unfortunately, the history of cotton is linked to slavery, which in the seventeenth century provided the main workforce in America for the cultivation of this fiber; in fact in Louisiana are born the first large cotton plantations, where slaves are forced to collect plants for processing. Many landowners bought people to be used as slaves, from areas of the world such as Africa, to work in the cotton fields, to keep operational expenses to a minimum. The extra money saved by the exploitation of slaves, paying them little for their work, brought the proceeds to the owners who, removed the money for their maintenance, the rest went to invest even more in their activities, cotton and other initiatives. Slavery was banned in the United States after the Civil War. Cotton and slavery persisted in the Confederate states in the southern United States longer than in the northern states of the continent, and this was one of the major differences between the two sides in the Civil War. Originally, Europeans and their descendants in America tried to turn Native Americans into cheap labor, but these people were commonly familiar with the area and therefore decided to move away from forced labor. Later the choice fell on the poor

Europeans, who came to live in America as indentured servants, which meant that they would work for a number of years, only for food and accommodation, without having extra money. After the short-term contracts expired and because of a longer life expectancy for European workers, the cheapest choice was for African slaves, this at the end of 1600 and here we can say that cotton and slavery became inextricably interconnected.

CHARACTERISTICS AND USE The cotton ginning process consists in the opening at maturity of the fruits of the cotton tree, these fruits in the form of rigid capsules open and discover the seeds, which are wrapped in a cotton ball. The ginning is the first step in the processing is the operation that consists in separating the cotton wool from the seed and is carried out with mechanical ginning. After selecting the fibers long enough and having pressed them in cotton bales, easier to transport, it will be possible to make the spinning which is the set

of steps that allow you to get from the raw material of cotton, a yarn suitable for weaving or knitting. The greater use, seen its absorbency, is done in the shirts also called "T-shirts" and incomparably effective in towels, bathrobes, as well as kitchen dryers and dishcloths. Cotton is an insulating fabric, retains heat, especially when receiving a scraping treatment, for this sweaters or vests in jersey or cotton sweatshirts, often have a soft interior. It resists high temperatures, so it can be washed without any problems at 40 ºF or 60 ºF, in fact it can also be ironed with a hot iron. It is relatively cheap, given its qualities we can say that cotton is an inexpensive textile material; in fact, most people wear cotton t-shirts or sweaters in the summer and sweatshirts when the weather gets cooler for this, it is pleasant to wear, is healthy and you can make it wear to people with sensitive skin. The twisted fibers make it soft and well tolerated and is recommended for underwear.

With cotton fabrics, the skin breathes and sweat can be evacuated by sweating. And now the negative points: it tends to shrink during the first wash or if it is washed at too high temperatures; white cotton tends to yellow, if ironed at high temperatures or it is sensitive to light fading. If it is not stored properly or if it is folded before drying, this fiber can develop mold. Beware of holes in old sheets or jeans because they could tear easily!

But let’s talk about the uses of this fiber: did you know that your small bobbins of sewing thread are made of cotton? It allows to obtain opaque or brighter yarns, but also strings and ropes. We will not teach you anything by reminding you that cotton is the protagonist of clothing production, it is the most used material for both women and men, but also for children, since it is the best material for the skin. Can be woven for shirts, but it can also be knitted in T-shirt, which increases its flexibility. It should also be noted that many quality lace and tulle, are made of cotton. Its uses also range in upholstery, where it is used as a upholstery fabric and this fiber gives rise to beautiful plain colors, but above all it is the ideal support for printed fabrics that allow you to add motifs to your decoration. It is found in curtains, pillows, plaid.

SUSTAINABILITY If cotton is a natural vegetable fibre in nature and therefore does not constitute a by-product of oil, as could be blamed on synthetic materials, processing from raw into textile material raises some environmental issues.

Bleaching and dyeing involve the use of chemicals and the consumption of water used for the production of cotton fabric is very important. In addition, cultivation itself is considered one of the most polluting crops for the use of fertilizers and pesticides. The issues of environmental impact and ecological sustainability affect virtually every consumer product, so for a more ethical and responsible product, there is ecological and organic cotton, which prohibits the use of pesticides and limits the amount of water used.

However, care must be taken when dyeing even organic, the raw material can be environmentally friendly without the dye being such. In short, there are limits to most fibers. A first sensible resolution to be implemented personally, as a consumer of textiles, cotton and other fibres, would be to focus on quality products that are sustainable over time in order to avoid excessive consumption. Undoubtedly practical, pleasant and comfortable, it is a versatile and quality textile material, rightly prized, even if it has not yet reached perfection in terms of environmental sustainability. We hope you have enjoyed learning more about its history, its textile exploitation, its qualities and its defects as a fabric.

CONCLUSIONE

CONCLUSION

We talked about three beautiful fabrics, their history, characteristics and use. We enjoyed seeing their positive and negative characteristics, but they always remain avant-garde fabrics, used by us all and to beautify our homes. Fluttering silks that with their finesse and lightness surround us and touch us, they have dressed kings and queens, then brought all over the world, have been used especially by women in different ways. Linen as a fabric that with its freshness is a symbol of sun, summer and fashion, the weave of a thread that, with ancient origins has brought to our days a canvas that has become a status and extremely an ecological fabric in its nature. Cotton, like not having garments in this fiber, very famous all over the world is used all year round for our outfits, in a casual or more

sophisticated way and often combined with other natural fibers. Here are three fabrics to which you will surely now pay more attention, after reading all their features and having known more deeply their merits and flaws. And when you get up in the morning, try to remember that priority must be given to natural fabrics, these will give you a lot of satisfaction, especially in summer, but even in the coldest seasons in contact with the skin they must always be there We have said all or the essential parts that you should know, now it is up to you to put them into practice and feel the feeling and experience, if you have not already done it, of wearing a silk garment, one of linen or one of cotton.

Sommario INTRODUCTION SILK THE SILKWORM HISTORY CHARACTERISTICS AND USE LINEN Introduction HISTORY CHARACTERISTICS AND USE COTTON HISTORY CHARACTERISTICS AND USE SUSTAINABILITY CONCLUSIONE CONCLUSION

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