FALL 2026• ISSUE 38
FREE
HOOD CANAL
Magazine
Take me home today!
Shellfish event 30
2026 OYSTERFEST October 2-4 shelton
TRACINGTHEFJORD.COM
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United Community, Empowered People, Exceptional Health
Mason Health earns Greenhealth Champion Award
The Greenhealth Champion Award celebrates health care facilities and systems championing the growth and development of their sustainability programs. Mason Health is the recipient of nine Practice Greenhealth Awards: Environmental Excellence (2021), Partner for Change Awards (2022, 2023, 2024), Greening the Operating Room Awards (2023, 2024), Making Medicine Mercury Free Award (2024), Emerald Award (2025) and Greenhealth Champion (2026). 2026 Green Team members, left to right, bottom row: Culinary & Nutrition Services Manager Ashlee Johnson, Chief Development & Communication Officer Jennifer Capps, Compliance Officer Laura Grubb. Middle row: Pharmacy Manager Stephanie Gunter, CNS Supervisor Matt Cummings, EVS Manager Trevor Madison, Program Manager: Infection Prevention, Employee Health & Safety Melissa McClaran. Back row: Director of Surgical Services Lori Genson, Director of Supply Chain Sean Hazlett and Director of Laboratory Services Lindsay Roberts.
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Public Hospital No.1 of Mason County, Washington, d.b.a Mason Health complies with applicable Federal civil rights laws and does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, national origin, age, disability, or sex (consistent with the scope of sex discrimination described at 45 CFR § 92.101(a)(2)), including sex characteristics, including intersex traits; pregnancy or related conditions; sexual orientation; and gender identity. Mason Health does not exclude people or treat them less favorably because of race, color, national origin, age, disability, or sex.
08/2026
ISSUE 38 | YEAR 8 EVENTS 6
Tracing the Fjord RACHEL HANSEN, EDITOR
After the long, bright days of summer—when our highways, trails, waterways, restaurants and small businesses hum with visitors—the first cool mornings bring a welcome change of pace. The light softens, the leaves begin to turn, smoke curls from chimneys again, and suddenly there is a little more time to gather, visit with neighbors and enjoy the communities we are so fortunate to call home. Since 2018, I have had the remarkable privilege of helping tell the stories of this place through these pages. Nearly 40 magazines later, I sometimes find myself looking back through the issues and realizing what an extraordinary collection we have created together. Each season's offering is filled with the history of Hood Canal and the people who came before us. We’ve shared stories of families, businesses and traditions; celebrated beginnings and remarkable accomplishments; remembered people we have lost; explored beaches, forests and waterways; and documented festivals and gatherings that are the rhythm of life here. A community’s history isn’t only found in museums or old photographs. It is being written every day—in the new apothecary that opens its doors on Cota, the artist who shares a new work, the volunteer who spends months organizing a festival, the musician playing
QUILCENE LANTERN 12
MUSIC YEAR ROUND
SEA FOG 14 WALK ON THE WILD SIDE
ROAM WOLF DOG SANCTUARY 20
SALISH AFTER DARK 23 SCUBA AT NIGHT IN HOOD CANAL OYSTERFEST 30 OCTOBER 2-4 | SHELTON, WA WILDSIDE HARVEST 42
SALAL DISCOVERED
STAIRCASE 60
AFTER THE FIRE
to a room full of neighbors, and the generations of families who return to the same celebration year after year. This fall issue is especially rich with those traditions. As summer gives way to autumn, our calendar fills with reasons to come together. There is OysterFest in Shelton, where seafood, shucking and community spirit have brought generations together. There’s Banjo Rama at Hama Hama Oyster farm and the wonderful live music and gatherings tucked into communities throughout the region. Nearby Port Townsend comes alive with arts, performances and creative events, while Quilcene offers intimate live music and the kind of evenings where performers and audiences feel like old friends at the Lantern.
HIKE TO HOME LAKE 76
CRAIG ROMANO
TRACING THE FJORD IS PRODUCED BY RACHEL HANSEN IMAGE IN ACTION DESIGN rachel@nwevent.org (360) 427-5599
PO BOX 622, SHELTON, WA 98584 © 2026 No reprint without permission
TRACINGTHEFJORD.COM
These gatherings may look different from one another, but they share something important: fellowship.
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They give us a reason to put down our phones, leave our chores for another day, sit beside someone we know—or someone we are about to know—and enjoy being part of a community. Perhaps that is one of the gifts of fall here. Summer encourages us to explore. Autumn invites us to belong. As you turn the pages of this Fjord, I hope you discover a story you didn’t know, an event you decide to attend, a business you haven’t visited, or perhaps a neighbor you see in a new light. Most of all, I hope these pages remind you how much there is to celebrate in the small communities surrounding this extraordinary place.
“Let Us Be Your Guides”
The Munn Bro's specialize in waterfront homes and acreage in the N.W. Hood
Canal which includes Lake Leland, Dabob Bay, Quilcene and Brinnon areas. Enjoy
the extended spring and autumn seasons of the Hood Canal. Munn Bro’s agents are thankful for the wonderful people in this pristine area that make it a unique place to live. Experience outdoor activities, wild crafting mushrooms, wildlife, locally grown food, and an abundance of fresh seafood.
And none of these stories would exist without the people who help tell them. To our writers, photographers, historians, businesses, organizations, community members and contributors who have trusted us with their memories, photographs, knowledge and stories over nearly 40 issues: thank you. You have helped create something much larger than a magazine. Together, we are building a living record of Hood Canal—one issue, one season and one story at a time. I feel incredibly fortunate to be its keeper.
Jim Munn
Bruce Munn
Kalan Hatton
Maddy Fisher
360.301.4700
360.301.4026
360.531.4419
360.461.8772
Owner/Broker
Select the most knowledgeable and experienced agents to guide you in the purchase or sale of your property. Our team truly know the homes and land of West Hood Canal. Stop by our new office at 294772 Hwy.101in Quilcene
Here’s to fall on the fjord, to gathering together, and to all the stories still waiting to be told.
for FREE maps, tide books and local insight of this beautiful area. Members of the NWMLS, and the Jefferson County Association of Realtors
~Notary services available~
have a ay Season
munnbros.com
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SeptembeR thru November
2026
Happenings aroud the Fjord
Event Caledar ONGOING EVENTS Shelton School Board Meeting 2nd and 4th Tuesdays, 6 PM Mt. View Elementary School, Shelton Port of Shelton Commission Meeting 1st and 3rd Tuesdays, 2 PM, Shelton Cribbage Tournament at Bent Bine Brew Tuesdays 5 PM , Belfair Open Mic Night at El Sarape Cantina 1st Tuesday of month, 6 – 9 PM, Shelton Comedy Open Mic at El Sarape Cantina 3rd Tuesday of month, 6 – 9 PM , Shelton Bookmobile in Brinnon & Quilcene Tuesdays, 10–12 PM Brinnon Comm Center Tuesdays,1:30 – 4 PM Quilcene Comm. Trivia Night at Alderbrook Resort Wednesdays, 6:30 - 8 PM, Union
Darts at Bent Bine Brew Wednesdays, 5:45 PM registration with cash prizes. 23297 HWY 3, Belfair Quilcene Lantern Open Mic 2nd Thursday (9/10, 10/8, 11/12), 6:00 PM Quilcene Lantern, Quilcene Free open mic for songs, stories, jokes and more (hosted by local musicians). All ages. quilcenelantern.com Peninsula Art Association Meeting Second Thursday, 1 PM,525 Cota St, Shelton
Trivia Night at Bent Bine Brew Co. Fridays, 7 PM, FREE 23297 HWY 3, Belfair Live Music at Union Square Deli Fridays, 6 PM - 8 PM 310 E Dalby Rd #100 Union Trivia Night at Potlatch Every 4th Friday, 6-8PM, FREE, Hoodsport Best Friends Fridays 2nd Friday of each month, 4:30–7:30 PM Extended shopping hours downtown Shelton
Open Mic at Bent Bine Brew Thursdays, 5 PM , 23297 HWY 3, Belfair
Shelton Farmers Market Saturday, 10 – 3 PM - through October 425 Cota St, Shelton
Fiber Art Fridays at Marmo Caffè Every first and third Friday, 3-6 PM 217 W Cota St, Shelton Bring a fiber art project to work on (FREE).
Sequim Farmers & Artisans Market Saturdays through late October, 9:00 AM–2:00 PM, Sequim Civic Center Plaza.
Shelton Family YMCA FREE Teen Night Fridays, 5 PM - 8 PM 3101 N Shelton Springs Rd, Shelton
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Saturday Night Bingo in Brinnon Saturdays, 151 Corey Street, Brinnon Bookmobile in Brinnon & Quilcene Saturdays, 10 – 12 PM Brinnon Saturdays, 1:30 – 4 PM Quilcene
SEPTEMBER
Chimacum Farmers Market Sundays (through 10/25 | 10:00 AM–2:00 PM 9122 Rhody Dr., Chimacum
Tea, Talk & Time Out at the Library Wednesday, September 9, 10:30 AM 40 North Schoolhouse Hill Road, Hoodsport An hour and a half of crafting, chatting, and tea with a view of the canal.
Open Mic Night at Union Square Deli First and Third Sundays 2:00 PM - 5:00 PM 310 E Dalby Rd #100, Union
CERT Basic Training Course Wednesday - Friday, September 9–11 13003 N US-101, Shelton, WA Mason County Emergency Management's three-day Community Emergency Response Team course covers disaster preparedness, light search and rescue, fire safety, and basic disaster medicine.
Craft Club at Marmo Caffè & Gallery Every 2nd and 4th Sunday, 11 - 2 PM 217 W Cota St, Shelton Summer Sunday Samples at Cameo Sundays 10 AM - 5PM 320 E Dalby Rd, Suite #E, Union Joon Bug Full Moon Yoga 7:00 - 8:30 PM, 10 E. Alderbrook Dr. Union 90-minute class | joonbugyoga.com HARVEST MOON - September 26, 2026 (indoors) HUNTER’S MOON - October 26th, 2026 (indoors) BEAVER MOON - November 24, 2026 (indoors) COLD MOON - December 23, 2026 (indoors)
Best Friends Fridays: “Back to Cool” Friday , September 11, 3:30–7:30 PM Railroad Avenue, Shelton Ten-plus downtown shops stay open late for fall specials and giveaways, this monthly event includes three new stops this month.
Quilcene Community Center 294952 Hwy 101, Quilcene Yoga: Saturday, 10-11 AM drop-in welcome. Fitness Aerobics: Thursday 10-11 AM all ages Pancake Breakfast: 9 –12 PM , first Saturday Sacred Healing Bowls: Last Friday, 6 PM Game Night: Wednesdays 3:30 -8:00 PM
Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival September 11-13 Point Hudson Marina,, Port Townsend North America’s largest wooden boat festival features 250+ wooden vessels, hands-on woodworking, demos, boat tours, sailing opportunities, live music, and family activities. Kids 12 & under free with paying adult. woodenboat.org
Gray Coast Guildhall 11 Old Church Rd, Quilcene. Music and theater events, schedule at graycoastguildhall.com Seabeck Community & Event Center See list of events for the season on page 11.
Banjo Rama Saturday–Sunday, September 12–13 Hama Hama Oyster Co 35846 N US Hwy 101, Lilliwaup Banjos, oysters and Hood Canal views come together for a weekend of live music, fresh oysters, local food and drinks, bingo and performances from regional and national musicians. hamahamaoysters.com
Arts by the Dock Craft Fair Saturday–Sunday, September 12–13 Port Townsend Waterfront — Port Townsend The Port Townsend Art Guild brings artists and makers to the waterfront during Wooden Boat Festival weekend for a colorful outdoor arts and crafts fair. discoverporttownsend.com ISM Festival Friday–Sunday, September 11–13 5th Avenue & Washington St, Olympia Three-day experimental music, visual art, movement, film, and performance-art event with 80+ performances across 7 venues. Some free; tickets from ~$15. olyarts.org Mimosa Celebrate Brunch Saturday , September 12, 11:30 AM 23 S 2nd St., Shelton A community fundraising brunch supporting The Youth Connection's programs. Rain or Shine Show & Shine Car Show West 180 Hulbert Road, Shelton Sunday, September 13, 11AM - 2PM An all makes, all models car show, so bring your ride or just come enjoy the lineup!$10 to show, free admission, supporting the Mason County D.A.R.E. Program. Free lunch! Gonna Be Golden Jr. Cheer Camp Tuesday –Thursday, September 15–17 North Shelton Springs Road, Shelton Kids 4–12 spend three evenings with the Shelton High School cheer squad, then perform at halftime under the Friday night lights. Paint & Sip at Finnriver Wednesday, September 16, 5:30 - 7:30 PM 124 Center Road, Chimacum All materials provided and guidance offered by an artist from the Wandering Arts Guild.
Property Highlights
Downtown
3 Bedrooms/2 Bathrooms
HOODSPORT
Stocked kitchen
Vacation Rental
Large deck + outdoor seating Perfect for groups or families Dedicated office 2 minute walk to town
Your Hood Canal Adventure Awaits From morning alpine hikes and crystal-clear fjord paddles to evening shellfish feasts paired with local wines, your ultimate PNW adventure starts here. Scan to plan your getaway!
ACTIVITIES NEARBY Use code “FJORD” for 10% off your next stay!
@hoodcanalgetaways
www.hoodcanalgetaways.com
FISHING
DINING
KAYAKING
HIKING
206-880-0643
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JOIN AND GET A
BURGER BASKET See Club Lucky for details.
BOATYARD BBQ Thursday, September 17, 4 –8:30 PM 305 8th Street, Port Townsend Celebrate the community and maritime character of the waterfront. portofpt.com/events
Dungeness River Festival Friday, September 25 Sequim area (near Dungeness River) Local celebration of the river with community activities sequimwa.gov
Live on Stage - The Lubben Brothers Thursday, September 17, 7:00 - 9:00 PM Shelton High School Performing Arts Center
Free Day at Washington State Parks + Free Guided Community Hike Saturday, September 26, 10 AM No Discover Pass needed statewide, paired with this month's free guided community hike.
HCC Customer Appreciation Day Friday, September 18, 11 AM - 2 PM 300 E Dalby Rd, Union An afternoon of food, fun, giveaways, and appreciation. hcc.net Quilcene Fair & Parade (30th Anniversary) Saturday, September 10:00 AM–3:00 PM 294715 US-101, Quilcene Free family event with parade (11AM), car show,music, arts vendors, garden displays, food, kids’ activities, and games. quilcenefair.org Olympickin' Bluegrass Festival Saturday, September 19, 10:00–11:00 PM Quilcene Lantern, 7360 Center Rd., Quilcene Bluegrass festival featuring regional bands, a group gravel bike ride, and local brewery kegs, quilcenelantern.com 4th Annual Memorial Miles Saturday–Sunday, September 19–20 631 W Dayton Airport Rd, Shelton Walk, bike or run to honor our 34 fallen officers. Kids, dogs and bikes are welcome. Rubber duck relay is back again this year and there will be a dunk tank to Saturday afternoon. auctria.events/2026memorialmiles
$5 Off Prime Rib Special Every Friday and Saturday
East Barrio Night at Maggie's Market Saturday, September 19, 5–10 PM 128 E Railroad Ave, Shelton A five-hour downtown celebration of culture, music, food, and community
WEARABLE WEDNESDAYS
Quilcene Oyster Races Sunday, September 20 Worthington Park, 151 E Columbia St., Quilcene ½ marathon, 10K, 5K, and kids’ sprint with postrace oysters, craft beer garden, lunch vendors, and awards. worthingtonparkquilcene.org
Earn 50 Base Points. Get a FREE Wearable.
Port Townsend Film Festival Thursday–Sunday, September 24–27 Multiple venues in Port Townsend Independent narrative, documentary, and short films, live music, outdoor movies, and talks. Known as “Sundance by the Sea.” ptfilm.org
OPEN DAILY AT 10AM
NEW ITEMS EVERY MONTH. 19330 US-101, Skokomish, WA 98584 myluckydogcasino.com | (360) 877-5656
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Sequim Valley Lions Oktoberfest Saturday, September 26, 4:00–9:00 PM Sequim Boys & Girls Club, Sequim Community fundraiser with Oktoberfest food, music, and activities. sequimvalleylions.com Longbranch Fiber Arts + Saturday, September 26th 10 AM-4PM Longbranch Improvement Club 4312 Key Peninsula Hwy SW, Longbranch Los Lobos in Concert Monday, September 28, 7:00 PM Fort Worden - McCurdy Pavilion, Port Townsend Legendary Grammy-winning band Los Lobos closes out the Port Townsend Film Festival with a special performance at Fort Worden
OCTOBER
OysterFunk (Preview to OysterFest) Friday, October 2, 6:00–10:00 PM 21+ music (Stir Crazy), food, oysters, hosted by Shelton Rotary, admission $5, parking free. Port Townsend Art Walk Saturday, October 3 | 5:00–8:00 PM Downtown Port Townsend Stroll downtown galleries, shops and creative spaces during Port Townsend's monthly First Saturday Art Walk. Tanagrams: Woodland Creatures Saturday, October 3, 4 PM 24202 US 101, Hoodsport Create playful woodland animals from recycled cedar geometric pieces. $25. SeaFogArts.com Hike Dosewallips River Trail Saturday, October 3, 8 AM · Brinnon A guided full-day hike up one of the Olympics' great river valleys, timed for turning big-leaf maples and a clear, low river.
OysterFest : West Coast Oyster Shucking Championship & Washington State Seafood Festival October 3–4 Saturday 10:00 AM–6:00 PM, Sunday 10:00 AM–5:00 PM 250 W Sanderson Way, Shelton 40+ food vendors, oyster-shucking championship, wine, two music stages, kids’ activities, and marine displays. Host: Shelton Skookum Rotary. oysterfest.org. Live on Stage - YANIV ZARIF Tuesday, October 6, 7 - 9:00 PM Shelton High School masoncountyconcerts.org Great Port Townsend Bay Kinetic Sculpture Race Saturday–Sunday, October 3–4, Port Townsend downtown Whimsical human-powered “kinetic sculptures” race/parade; includes related costume events. Shuck & Share Walk/Run 5K Sunday, October 4, 8 AM · Huff 'N Puff Trail head, Shelton OysterFest weekend's charity 5K — every registration dollar supports neighbors in need. Polaroid Pocket Books Wednesday, October 7 | 5:30 PM 24202 US 101, Hoodsport Create a recycled-cedar accordion pocket book for journaling and keepsakes. $25. seafogarts.com Little Creek Casino & Resort Open House Thursday, October 8 91 W State Rt 108, Kamilche Best Friend Friday: Spooky Season - No tricks, just treats! Friday, October 9, 4 -7:30 PM Shelton downtown Shops feature fun decor, gifts and goodies and late open hours. Pier Peer on Hood Canal Friday, October 9 | 7:00–9:00 PM 10 E. Alderbrook Dr., Union Underwater lights reveal animals around the docks and microscopes offer a closer look at plankton. Free.
Dahlias at the Fjord
Thursday, October8, 5:30–8:30 PM 24341 US-101, Hoodsport Includes dahlia workshop with The Thicket, fresh flowers, pumpkin and take-home arrangement, seasonal multi-course dinner and Castle & Crown Cellars wine pairings. $95 per person, advance reservations required. tracingthefjord.com Western Swing with Bobby Winstead and the Long Long Goodbyes Friday, October 9, 7 PM 7360 Center Rd Quilcene A little honky-tonk spirit,all ages. quilcenelantern.com
Our team of licensed professionals are proud to provide fast and reliable service with integrity & excellent value.
CALL NOW FOR A QUOTE: (360) 426-1284
Quilcene Fiber Festival Saturday, October 10, 10:00 AM 151 W. Columbia, Quilcene Fiber arts, vendors, and activities. Second Saturdays at Bayshore: Wildlife Tracks & Signs Saturday, October 10 Bayshore Preserve, Shelton Guided nature walk , this month "tracking what wildlife left behind."
bradleyaircompany.com
Books: Japanese Stab Binding Sunday, October 11, 1 PM 24202 US 101, Hoodsport Monthly bookmaking series by learning Japanese stab binding and creating your own journal or art book. $25. seafogarts.com Tanagrams Thursday, October 15, 5:30 PM 24202 US 101, Hoodsport Turn reclaimed cedar shapes into creatures. $25.seafogarts.com Wetlands After Hours Thursday, October 15, 5–7 PM Theler Wetlands Nature Center, 600 NE Roessel Rd. Belfair Meet HCSEG staff and fellow supporters, hear about the restoration of the Nature Center and HCSEG’s role in caring for this special place. RSVP at: pnwsalmoncenter.org 18th Annual Craft Bazaar Saturday, October 17, 9AM -3PM Mason Benson Community Center 5971 E Mason Lake Dr, Grapeview
DESIGN MATTERS We seek to create quality designs that are innately beautiful aesthetically while meeting practical and functional needs that fit your lifestyle. A LEGACY OF ARCHITECTURAL DESIGN SERVICES FOR MASON COUNTY AND THE SURROUNDING AREAS SINCE 1986
We want to hear your vision and help transform your ideas into reality. New residences ADU's Additions and remodels Commercial buildings and spaces Specializing in: Slopes Shorelines Views Unique Features
CONNECT WITH US
info@williams-architecture.com
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360-426-0511
www.williams-architecture.com
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THE WILDWOODS Friday, October 23, 7 PM Quilcene Lantern — Quilcene quilcenelantern.com Empower Turning Pointe Fundraiser Friday, October 23 Alderbrook Resort & Spa, Union Mason Health Walk Thru Trunk or Treat Friday, October 23, 2:00 PM - 4:00 PM Mason General Hospital, Shelton Darkwood Nights Thursday–Saturday, Oct 23–25 970 Bee Mill Rd, Brinnon Immersive 10th-century medieval village combat-driven Live-Action Role-Playing (LARP) weekend. darkwoodnights.org Free Guided Hike — Lake Isabella Saturday–Sunday, Oct 24–31 Pick up a punch card at the Shelton Family YMCA, join the hikes, and collect stamps to earn a backpack full of goodies. southsoundymca. org/shelton-ymca Pier Peer at Shelton Yacht Club Friday, October 30 | 7:00–9:00 PM Shelton Yacht Club, 701 E. Pine St., Shelton Discover Oakland Bay after dark as underwater lights attract marine life to the docks. FREE. Halloween Spooktacular Friday, Oct 30, 4-6 PM Railroad Avenue, Shelton Family-friendly trick-or-treating sheltondowntownmerchants.com HALLOWEEN TRICK OR TREAT FOR KIDS Saturday, October 31 | 1–5 PM Historic Port Gamble — Port Gamble portgamble.com Downtown Trick or Treat & Parade Saturday, October 31 Downtown Port Townsend
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NOVEMBER
Live on Stage - Piano Men Generations Sunday, November 1, 3 – 5:00 PM Mason County Concert Association Delbert Miller at HCIC Meeting November 3, 6-8 PM 7362 WA-106, Union The Hood Canal Improvement Club welcomes Delbert Miller of the Skokomish Tribe to talk about his mission to promote health and wellness through of Indigenous arts and cultural teachings. Joel Gibson Jr. at Alderbrook Golf & Country Club Friday, Nov 6, 6 PM 330 E Country Club Drive East, Union A 25-time award-winning Nashville recording artist plays a solo acoustic sets. Port Gamble Ghost Conference 2026 Friday–Sunday, November 6–8 Port Gamble | Three-day paranormal conference with speakers, classes, & investigations. Curtis Roy Moore at The Geoduck Saturday, Nov 7, 5 PM Old US, 307103 US-101, Brinnon Live Americana from a Pacific Northwest singer-songwriter, originals mixed with covers No cover; dinner available. Free Day at Washington State Parks Wednesday, November 11 Statewide free day, no Discover Pass required. Best Friend Fridays: Thankful for You! Friday, November 13, 4-7:30 PM Visit BFF locations and be entered to win gas gift cards. Christmas Giving Arts & Crafts Fair November 14, 10AM-3PM Pioneer Middle School 50 East Spencer Lake Road, Shelton
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Fungi of Bayshore + Guided Hike Saturday, November 14 10 AM Bayshore Preserve This month's themed nature walk pairs with the Capitol Land Trust salmon-run hike. Enchanted Evening in Wonderland Dinner Auction - Benefit for Mason Health November 14, 6:30 - 10 PM 91 West State Route 108, Shelton Kick off the holidays with your friends and loved ones at this holiday fundraiser. Operation FREE BAY Sunday, Nov 15, 1:00 PM 600 Northeast Roessel Road, Belfair Community swap event to keep useful items out of landfills and protect Hood Canal waterways. Veterans Stand Down November 20, 10 AM - 2 PM Memorial Hall, Shelton For homeless veterans and veterans in need. Services include a hot meal, donations include rain jacket, rain pants, warm gloves, warm hats, new sleeping bags, tarps, Walmart or Fred Meyer gift cards, cash to purchase items. Port Townsend Arts & Crafts Fair Holiday Craft Fair Friday–Saturday, November 27–28 Community Center, Port Townsend Annual holiday arts, crafts, and shopping event. discoverporttownsend.com Sugar & Seas: Holiday Fair 2026 November 27th 3p-8p November 28th 9a-3p November 29th 8a-12p Alderbrook Resort Ballroom, 2nd Floor 10 E Alderbrook Dr, Union
SAVE THE DATE
. Festival of the Firs Thursday, Nov 26 – through early January Mason County's holiday season opener: tree lightings, parades, Santa visits, wagon rides, cookie and wreath workshops, and live music running into the new year. festivalofthefirs.com Market Days at NCCU December 4–5, 2026, 10 AM–3 PM 951 E Dalby Rd, Union Shop from 30+ vendors offering unique, handmade, artisan-quality gifts—perfect for your holiday shopping! NCCU will also have homemade soups and goodies available for purchase.
Seabeck Community & Event Center
UPCOMING EVENTS
Seabeck Car Show-Off Saturday, September 19 | Noon–4 PM
Where Seabeck Gathers
Set along Hood Canal with some of the best views of the Olympics across the canal, this small community has long been the kind of place where neighbors know one another—and where a trip into town can easily turn into an afternoon catching up.. These days, this community spirit can be found at the Seabeck Community & Event Center, just up Seabeck Highway from the waterfront. From farmers and makers to car enthusiasts, musicians, seniors and families, the center has become a place to meet, learn, play and celebrate. The 13-acre property was once part of the Seabeck Elementary School. Residents first explored transforming the former school into a community center in 2007, but the idea didn't fully take hold until a new group of neighbors revived the effort years later.
In 2020, community members began working with the Central Kitsap School District to repurpose the remaining school gymnasium. The school board unanimously supported the effort that summer, and after repairs and improvements, the first public gathering in the revitalized center was held in May 2021. Today, the Center includes a multipurpose gym, sports fields, four pickleball courts and picnic tables. A new outdoor pavilion will create more room for concerts and community events. For more information and details of the upcoming events visit seabeckcc.org
Seabeck Market — Kids Day Sunday, September 20 | Noon–4 PM . Introduction to Guitar Fridays through October | 4–5 PM Stag & Boar Fencing Thursdays | 6–9 PM Seabeck Sound & Drum Fourth Sunday of the month | 2–4 PM Bingo Night Second Tuesday of the month | Games 7 PM Senior Social Thursdays Thursdays | 10 AM–2 PM Arts & Crafts Holiday Fair Saturday–Sunday, November 14–15
We are delighted to welcome you to our Hood Canal Resort located on the shore in Hoodsport. Enjoy brand new waterfront rooms and a spectacular view location. Sunrise is the perfect place for couples, families, or groups to spend time together and our goal is to provide you with everything you need to make this your favorite Pacific Northwest adventure. Kayaking/swimming from beach Scuba diving facilities & access Sun decks & views Pet friendly Waterfront hot tub
(360)877-5301 STAY@SUNRISERESORTHOODCANAL.COM
24520 US-101, HOODSPORT
SUNRISERESORTHOODCANAL.COM
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Follow the music to the
Quilcene Lantern On a historic farm tucked between forest and field, an old dairy barn is bringing people together. Follow Center Road into the green folds of Quilcene and you may hear the music before you quite know where it's coming from. Set on 53 acres of farmland, wetlands and forest, the Quilcene Lantern feels part retreat, part music camp and part Olympic Peninsula hideaway. At its heart is a weathered barn where strings have been ringing from the rafters for decades—and where a new generation is adding bluegrass, indie rock, folk and plenty of dancing to the soundtrack. Today, the family-owned Lantern hosts live music, lodging, camping and provides a gathering place. Come for a show, spend the night in a cabin or farmhouse, pitch a tent, bring an RV, or just settle in for an evening of music surrounded by pasture and forest, In the early 20th century, Japanese immigrants, the Iseris, homesteaded the land, establishing a successful dairy, berry and vegetable farm. In 1935, they built the barn that remains the centerpiece of the property today. During World War II, the Iseri family was removed from the farm and incarcerated following Executive Order 9066. Their farm was seized by the government, divided and sold, with the family receiving none of the proceeds. The land changed hands several times in the decades that followed, and many of the original farm structures deteriorated.
QUILCENE LANTERN PHOTO
In 1976, violist Alan Iglitzin of the Philadelphia String Quartet purchased the property and began restoring the farmhouse and Iseri barn as a summer home and rehearsal space. In 1984, he founded the Olympic Music Festival, transforming the dairy barn into a concert hall.
Today, guests can stay in cabins or the farmhouse, camp among the trees or bring an RV. The historic barn remains the main performance space, while the Milkshed serves drinks during many events. Weddings and private gatherings share the calendar with concerts, festivals and community nights.
For decades, audiences traveled country roads to sit inside the rustic barn and hear chamber music performed in the quiet of this Olympic Peninsula countryside. That tradition survives today as Concerts in the Barn, which continues to bring classical music back to the historic space each summer.
On the following page is a list of upcoming events. For additional details on the Quilcene Lantern events visit quilcenelantern.com.
The property's newest chapter began in January 2024, when its current owners moved onto the farm and began restoring it as the Quilcene Lantern. There was plenty to do. Cabins needed updating, blackberries had reclaimed parts of the landscape and aging infrastructure required attention. But the bones of something remarkable were already there: rolling pasture, Tarboo Creek, pockets of forest, old cabins and farmhouse, and that extraordinary barn. Rather than reinventing the property, the family has embraced what it has long been: a place where food, music and community bring people together.
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QUILCENE LANTERN PHOTO
Events at the Quilcene Lantern September
Cold Comfort • Small Paul • NYBY
Saturday, September 12 | Doors Open 6 PM
Pool Tax, The Remnants Window, and Tispur Thursday, September 17
Doors Open 6 PM
Pickin' in the Pasture: Olympickin' 2026 Saturday, September 19 – 20
The 2026 lineup includes Broken Compass Bluegrass, Claire Willow & Elise Snoey, Dadweed, Georgia Strait Bluegrass, Sweater Weather Stringband and Union City Council. The event supports youth music on the Olympic Peninsula.
Tristen & Aba Kiser September 27 Doors Open 6 PM
October
Open Mic with Adele Hampton Thursday, October 8 | Sign-ups 6 PM Performances 7–9:30 PM | FREE
Western Swing with Bobby Winstead & the Long Goodbyes
Friday, October 9 | Doors 6 PM | Music 7 PM
Izaak Opatz & Devin Champlin Friday, October 16 | Doors open 6 PM
monica, Carmen Quill & Scree
Thursday, October 22 | Doors Open 5 PM Brooklyn-based bassist, composer and singer Carmen Quill is known for improvisation, jazz and experimental music.
The Wildwoods
Friday, October 23 | Doors Open 6 PM Main set beginning at 8 PM. The all-ages show is $15 in advance.
Paul Spring, Meernaa, Steven Van Betten, and Rob Shelton
Saturday, October 24 | Doors Open at 6 PM
FOR DETAILS ON STORIES AND EVENTS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE AND PAST ISSUES, VISIT WWW.TRACINGTHEFJORD.COM 13
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NEW BUSINESS
OPENING FALL 2026 HOODSPORT
SEA FOG gathering in Hoodsport Hoodsport is a town where oyster growers, artists, outdoor guides, makers and small-business owners live alongside one another—and where the mountains and waters of Hood Canal tend to inspire just about everything. This fall, that spirit is finding a new home at the Sea Fog Cooperative. This new Hoodsport venture opening this fall is bringing together four distinctly different businesses—Sea Fog Arts, Drift Yoga, Hood Canal Adventures and Crone & Co.— creating a unique collaboration where locals and visitors can make something, move their bodies, plan an adventure or simply browse for a treasures. Rather than a traditional collection of storefronts, the co-op idea feels particularly suited to Hoodsport: small businesses sharing space, ideas and customers while each bringing something different to the community. At Sea Fog Arts, creativity isn't something you're expected to arrive knowing how to do instead it is the process that is just as important.
The studio will offer classes and workshops centered around art, craft and DIY culture—giving guests a chance to spend an hour making something, or return for a series of classes and develop a project from beginning to end. Karen Bovinich, the studio's founder, grew up embracing art and craft. Her mother was a fashion designer, both grandmothers painted, and her extended family included quilters, welders and woodworkers. She earned a Fine Art degree from Columbia College Chicago and built her career incorporating marketing, events and art. Her first classes in October are a playful nod to Halloween. Exquisite Corpse and Monster Feels offer lighthearted opportunities
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to gather and create, while a continuing DIY Books series digs deeper. Participants begin by learning bookbinding techniques before moving into printmaking and artwork in subsequent sessions. The idea is less about producing a perfect object and more about rediscovering the pleasure of learning alongside other people. November plans include free activities such as Sweater Swaps, open craft nights and Community Table Takeovers, which will invite other makers to step in and teach their own classes. On weekends, the studio will also become a small retail space featuring original artwork, handmade gifts and furniture from Wishbone Carpentry. 14
Sea Fog Arts classes & workshops Tanagrams: Woodland Creatures Saturday, October 3, 15 Create woodland animals from cedar geometric pieces. $25. Polaroid Pocket Books Wednesday, October 7, 17 Create a cedar accordion pocket book for photos, journaling. $25. Japanese Stab Binding Sunday, October 11 Kick off Sea Fog Arts’ monthly bookmaking series. $25. Exquisite Corpse Monday, October 19 | 5:30 PM Try the strange collaborative drawing game made famous by the Surrealists. Reveal the group's unexpected creation. $7. Monster Feels Tuesday, October 27 | 5:30 PM Turn everyday frustrations into quirky monsters using collage, drawing, and mixed media. $7. Astrology & Geometry Friday, October 30 | 5:30 PM Sea Fog Arts, Hoodsport Explore planets, houses and zodiac signs while learning how to map your own birth chart. $25. Wild Card: Reading Tarot Saturday, October 31 | 2 PM Learn basics of Tarot, from the Major and Minor Arcana to the Celtic Cross spread. Includes Tarot stickers and a journal. $25.
Her guides' backgrounds range from marine biology and environmental science to mycology and expedition kayak guiding in Alaska. Experiences include guided wildlife-viewing kayak tours as well as edible plant and mushroom-foraging excursions through the forests surrounding Hood Canal.
IF You Go:
Sea Fog Co-Op 24202 US 101, Hoodsport Sea Fog Arts Art classes & workshops Seafogarts.com Drift Yoga Yoga & nature-inspired practice Classes begin September 24 Driftyogaspace.com
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Founded in 2009 by marine biologist Christina Maloney, Hood Canal Adventures has spent nearly two decades introducing visitors to the fjord through outdoor experiences.
The Hoodsport community wishes them all well in their new venture and cannot wait to support them!
Shells in your pocket, Savings in your bag bag!!
ET
If yoga connects visitors to the landscape through movement, Hood Canal Adventures takes them directly into it.
Rounding out the group is Crone & Co, a new retail concept from Laura Straight. Part gift shop, part vintage hunt and part local curiosity cabinet, the retail side combines new and previously loved goods. Shoppers will find gifts, souvenirs and accessories alongside sustainable skin care, flowers, artwork, curiosities and those rare finds that don't fit neatly into any category— which, of course, is what makes browsing an independent shop so much fun.
DE I N
Kelly draws inspiration from the cycles and rhythms of the natural world—a particularly appropriate philosophy in a community where tides, weather and seasons remain such visible parts of daily life. Kelly is also an outdoor guide with fellow co-op member Hood Canal Adventures. Drift Yoga classes are scheduled to begin September 24.
This fall, the company plans to open a new Hoodsport location, expanding kayak rentals to Hoodsport and Lake Kokanee while continuing its existing services at Yvelvik Beach.
MO O AA M
Drift Yoga brings another interpretation of creativity to the co-op—this one focused on movement, mindfulness and our connection to the natural world. Founder Kelly Knierim is a registered yoga teacher, kayak guide and former secondary science educator who relocated from Chicago with her husband and two dogs in 2024.
INTERNET
Hood Canal Adventures Guided kayaking, kayak rentals and guided foraging tours HoodCanalAdventures.com
MODE
Crone & Co Retail 24202 US 101, Hoodsport
New customer activation required to receive free standard installation. Current and new customer will each receive a $50 account referral credit. Some restrictions may apply. Offer expires 12/31/26.
FOR FOR WHATEVER WHATEVER
YOU'RE YOU'RE IN! IN!
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360.898.2481 | www.hcc.net
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Downtown Shelton's annual touch of
Hocus Pocus October 30, 4-6 PM, Railroad Avenue in Shelton transforms into a seen from one of your favorite Halloween movies. What makes Spooktacular special isn’t a carnival ride or elaborate attraction – it’s participation. There’s something especially charming about Halloween in this small town as the local businesses, nonprofits and community organizations gather their bags of sweets and trade traffic for trick-or-treaters,, costumes and plenty of Halloween creativity. Hosted by the Shelton Downtown Merchants in partnership with the Shelton-Mason County Chamber of Commerce, Spooktacular turns several blocks of Railroad Avenue into a pedestrian-friendly Halloween celebration designed especially for families. The formula is wonderfully simple: close the street and add several thousand pieces of candy — probably considerably more — and let Shelton take it from there.
The event has grown into an impressive community gathering. In 2024, more than 60 local businesses and nonprofit organizations participated despite a little classic Pacific Northwest rain. Chamber reports from earlier years have described thousands of children lining the streets for downtown trickor-treating. It’s easy to understand the appeal. Parents get a central, traffic-free place to bring their little ghosts and superheroes, while local businesses get to meet their community outside the usual day-to-day routine. And for two hours, downtown belongs to the kids. Families can arrive anytime between 4 and 6 PM for this free event. Costumes are highly encouraged — and not just for children.
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Don’t be surprised to encounter witches handing out chocolate, superheroes running local businesses or an otherwise respectable member of the community dressed as something completely ridiculous. In previous years, downtown businesses have added their own attractions to the evening. Cooper Studios has offered a Halloween photo opportunity, while John L. Scott has hosted a costume contest, giving families another reason to linger downtown after filling their treat bags. The result feels less like an organized festival and more like Shelton throwing a Halloween block party. Railroad Avenue is an especially fitting setting for a hometown tradition. FJORD
Your message on the radio and in print. ericans listen to “Over 82% of Am g over week, includin the radio each U.S. ts 35-64, 82% of 87% of U.S. adul 18-24 -49, and 75% of adults from 18 year olds.”
statistica.com (2022)
Did you know that the KMAS 1030 AM/103.3 FM signal reaches as far as Tacoma, Bremerton, Aberdeen, and Centralia? (radio-locator.com). As the “Voice of Mason County” KMAS also reaches your friends and neighbors from Allyn and Shelton to Belfair & Hoodsport, as well as on their commutes to Bemerton, SeaTac, and Olympia. TRACING THE FJORD is proud to be a part of their family!
Radio is available 24/7 and is accessible to everyone. The Fjord Magazine is celebrating 8 years of stories about South Puget Sound (Olympia, Allyn, to Elma and Matlock) and Hood Canal – from Port Gamble to Belfair!
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On an ordinary afternoon, Railroad Avenue is a mix of shops, restaurants, offices and historic buildings. During Spooktacular, that familiar streetscape becomes something entirely different. For a couple of hours, children parade past the old locomotive carrying pumpkin buckets. Storefronts become Halloween stops. Neighbors who may not have seen each other in months stop to talk while their kids compare candy hauls. Come in costume and bring a goodsized treat bag. Spooktacular is geared toward families and younger trick-ortreaters, although the fun attracts every generation. Expect plenty of candy, decorated booths and vehicles, costumed business owners and community volunteers, along with hundreds of creatively dressed children making their way up and down Railroad Ave. And because this is Western Washington in late October, costumes that can accommodate a rain jacket aren’t a bad idea.
IF YOU GO:
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Our readers, local & visiting, are your best prospects. Need more information? Call (360) 427-5599 or email PRINT & GRAPHICS: rachel@nwevent.org RADIO & EVENTS: jeff@nwevent.org, KMAS (360) 426-1030.
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The street running through the center of downtown is a reminder of Shelton’s timber and railroad past. Just steps from the Spooktacular festivities stands “Tollie,” the historic Simpson Logging Company Shay locomotive, along with its logging car and caboose — tangible reminders of the industry that helped shape the community.
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Halloween Spooktacular 2026 FREE | Friday, October 30 | 4–6 p.m. Railroad Avenue, Downtown Shelton First Street to Fifth Street (Railroad Avenue closes to vehicles at 2 PM) Presented by Shelton Downtown Merchants and the Shelton-Mason County Chamber of Commerce. Businesses and community organizations are invited to participate at no charge and provide their own candy, booth supplies and decorations. Information & participant registration: masonchamber. com/halloween-spooktacular-2026.
Save the Date
OYSTERFUNK | OCTOBER 2 OYSTERFEST | OCTOBER 3-4 SANDERSON FIELD | SHELTON, WA
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Walk on the Wild Side In the woods outside Shelton, ROAM Wolfdog Sanctuary offers an unforgettable encounter with animals caught between two worlds. Founders Jodi & Troy invite you to experience these remarkable animals. There is something undeniably wild about the forests surrounding Shelton. Follow Highway 101 toward the foothills, and the landscape becomes a patchwork of evergreens, winding roads and dense forest. And then, somewhere among those trees, you may hear a howl. Welcome to ROAM Wolfdog Sanctuary, a 40-acre refuge where a some of our most misunderstood animals have been given a safe place to call home.
Behind ROAM Wolfdog Sanctuary are founders Jodi Woolard and Troy Johnson, two people who were willing to make an extraordinary life change for animals they believed deserved better. For Jodi, the journey began long before ROAM. She spent 18 years operating a dog boarding facility in Monroe, WA, while also fostering wolfdogs on the side. Over those years, she saw firsthand how these animals were misunderstood.
Photo: Roam Wolfdog Sanctuary
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People could be captivated by the idea of owning an animal that looked wild, without realizing how different the realities of living with a wolfdog could be. When those situations failed, sanctuaries were among the few places equipped to take them. At the same time, Jodi had become a passionate advocate for wild wolves and their importance in healthy ecosystems. Eventually, the idea of creating a place that combined rescue, sanctuary and education became difficult to ignore. So Jodi and Troy did something bold: they sold their farm, business and vacation property and went looking for a place where that dream could become real. ROAM began taking shape in 2022, when the pair purchased 40 forested acres outside Shelton. Today, the nonprofit, USDA-licensed educational facility provides permanent homes for 19 wolfdogs. Wolfdogs are exactly what their name suggests—animals with both wolf and domestic-dog ancestry. Their striking appearance is part of their appeal, but it is also at the heart of a difficult problem. People may be drawn to an animal that resembles a wolf straight out of Yellowstone, without fully understanding the instincts, space, specialized care and commitment that can come with owning one. Many of the animals have been surrendered, abandoned or rescued after life as a conventional pet simply didn't work. At ROAM the residents live in large, natural enclosures tucked into the forest with room to express more of their natural behaviors. ROAM uses each wolfdog's story to start a larger conversation about conservation and responsible animal stewardship. Interested in visiting? The VIP Educational Tour takes guests inside the facility as guides introduce the resident wolfdogs and explain their personalities
and histories while talking about wolf behavior, genetics, conservation and why wolfdogs generally aren't suited to life as household pets.
From our farm to your table.
Interactions are always determined by the animals themselves. ROAM makes it clear that participation is never required of a wolfdog—the sanctuary is their home first. Some may approach with curiosity while others prefer to observe from a comfortable distance. For visitors looking for an even more unusual adventure, consider a Howl & Hike, a 1½-mile guided forest walk alongside two of the sanctuary's socialized ambassador wolfdogs. And should one wolfdog begin to howl and another answer, don't be surprised if the entire forest seems to join the conversation. ROAM operates as a nonprofit, and donations help cover food, veterinary care, enclosure maintenance, enrichment and the costs associated with providing homes for additional wolfdogs in need.
IF you Go:
Located at 200 E. Miracle Heights Drive in Shelton, visits are guided and advance reservations are required; the sanctuary is not open for casual drop-in visits. The VIP Educational Tour is currently listed at $69 for adults and $39.95 for children ages 7–11. The Howl & Hike is $89 per person and is open to ages 12 and older. Tour schedules and prices can change, so visitors should confirm current information when booking. ROAM Wolfdog Sanctuary Shelton, Washington 360-915-4317 roamwithus.org
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Fresh local oysters, clams, mussels & geoduck!
24341 N Hwy 101 , Hoodsport, WA
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Diving The Salish Sea After Dark DISCOVERING A DIFFERENT WORLD BENEATH FAMILIAR WATERS STORY & PHOTOS: THOM ROBBINS There is something about standing at the edge of the Salish Sea at night that never gets old. During the day, the Salish Sea gives you plenty to look at before you ever enter the water. You can watch the surface, see the shoreline stretching away in either direction, and sometimes catch a glimpse of the bottom beneath you. At night, all of that changes. Moonlight may shimmer across the surface. Lights along the shore mark houses, docks and roads. Dive lights move through the darkness as people prepare to enter the water. You can still see the Salish Sea. You just can't see very far into it.
Standing at the edge, my light catches the water immediately in front of me. Beyond it, the surface fades into darkness. Whatever is beneath it remains hidden. And then I walk into it. I love that moment. I have been diving for more than thirty years, and night diving still gives me a feeling that is hard to reproduce anywhere else. There is anticipation and perhaps a little apprehension. But mostly there is curiosity. I know the Salish Sea well. I have spent countless hours beneath its surface, photographing its animals and exploring the same sites again and again.
At night, none of that familiarity seems to matter quite as much.
I check my light, make sure my buddy is ready, put the regulator in my mouth and start into the water. The darkness closes around us as we descend. The first thing I notice is how small my world has become. During a daytime dive, I am constantly taking in information without thinking about it. I can see the bottom stretching away from me. Another diver moves off to one side. Kelp shifts in the current at the edge of my vision.
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Nudibranchs reward that kind of attention. They are among my favorite photographic subjects in the Salish Sea, and at night their colors can become even more striking. During the day, ambient light filters down through the water, with colors disappearing as depth increases. At night, my dive light and strobes bring those colors back against an almost completely black background. A nudibranch that might be only an inch or two long can suddenly become the brightest thing in the world. Orange, white, yellow, red, and purple blaze against the darkness.
A rockfish hangs above the reef twenty feet away. Even in the limited visibility common to the Salish Sea, my eyes are constantly gathering information. At night, almost all of that disappears. There is my light. There is whatever my light touches. And there is everything else. A dive site I may have visited dozens of times suddenly becomes a series of small discoveries. A piling appears out of the darkness. Then a boulder. Then a patch of sand. My buddy's light sweeps somewhere nearby, briefly illuminating part of the bottom before moving away again. It would be easy to think that darkness takes something away from a dive. it does exactly the opposite. I can see less, I look more closely.
A rocky reef that I might normally take in as a whole exposes a few square feet at a time. My light passes across sponges, hydroids and anemones. I look into cracks between rocks. I examine the edges of kelp and patches of sand that I might swim directly over during the day. And things begin to appear.
One of the pleasures of night diving is discovering that the Salish Sea does not go to sleep when we do. It changes shifts. Animals that spent the day hidden beneath rocks or deep inside cracks begin moving into the open. Shrimp appear almost everywhere once you start looking for them, their eyes reflecting back at the light. Crabs crawl across areas where I might have seen little movement only hours earlier. Decorator crabs can be particularly entertaining. They are already masters of disappearing into the background, attaching pieces of algae, sponge, and other material to their bodies until they can look more like a moving piece of the reef than an animal. During a night dive, my light may pass over one without registering it at all. Then something moves. That is often how night diving works. Movement gives an animal away. I stop. Move the light back. There it is. Photography reinforces that habit. When you spend time looking for small subjects underwater, you learn not to search only for animals. You search for something that does not quite belong. A shape. A texture. A tiny movement against an otherwise still background.
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But not everything becomes more active after sunset. Some animals are trying to sleep. Small fish rest against rocks or tuck themselves into places that offer protection. Fish that dart away during the day may remain surprisingly still at night. Rockfish settle closer to structure, and instead of seeing them suspended in the water column, I may find them positioned against a reef or among the rocks. It is an important reminder that there is no single "nighttime behavior" underwater. For some animals, darkness means an opportunity to hunt. For others, it's an opportunity to hide. foR diverS, it means seeing both.
Few animals capture the strangeness of a Salish Sea night dive quite like a ratfish. Ratfish are strange enough in daylight. They are chimaeras, ancient relatives of sharks and rays whose lineage stretches back hundreds of millions of years. They generally favor deeper water, but in the Salish Sea they can move into shallower water at night to feed, giving divers a better chance to encounter them. With their large, reflective eyes, tapering bodies, and long tails, they already look like something borrowed from a much earlier chapter in the ocean's history.
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When one glides into the beam of my light at night, the effect is even stronger. They often seem less like fish approaching than shapes materializing. The light catches the eyes first. Then the body emerges. A moment later, the animal passes beyond the edge of the beam and disappears again.
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That disappearance is one of the defining experiences of diving after dark. Animals do not always swim away in the normal sense. They simply leave your little circle of visibility. One second they are there. The next, the Salish Sea takes them back. Stubby squid are another favorite nighttime encounter. Despite the name, a stubby squid is not actually a true squid. It is a small cephalopod more closely related to cuttlefish than to true squid, and finding one can feel like discovering a tiny alien sitting on the seafloor. They are wonderfully suited to the kind of close observation that night diving encourages. A stubby squid may sit partially buried in the sand, trying very hard to convince the enormous animal shining a light at it that there is absolutely nothing interesting to see.
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That strategy does not always work on underwater photographers. The first hint may be an eye or an outline in the sand. Stop and look carefully, and the animal becomes obvious. Sometimes it changes color. Sometimes it moves. Sometimes it simply sits there, apparently waiting for the irritating photographer to leave.
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Few encounters change more after dark than one with a Giant Pacific octopus. Finding an octopus during the day is always exciting, but often the encounter begins with a den. You notice discarded crab shells outside an opening, peer inside, and find an eye looking back at you. Perhaps an arm is visible. Perhaps the octopus shifts deeper into the rocks. At night, Giant Pacific octopuses are more likely to leave their dens to hunt, giving divers a chance to see them moving across the bottom. Watching one hunt in the open is remarkable. Its arms reach into cracks and crevices as it moves across the rocks, searching for crabs, one of its favorite meals. Each arm seems to investigate a different part of the reef as the octopus works its way across the bottom.
Its skin shifts from smooth to heavily textured, and its color can change from reddish brown to pale or dark in seconds. The entire animal seems to flow over the reef, searching as it goes.
On shore, there is almost always some light around you, from the moon and stars to houses or the distant glow of a town. Turn off your light at depth, and the darkness can be almost complete.
This is one of the reasons I enjoy night diving so much. It is not simply about finding animals that are difficult to see during the day. It is about seeing familiar animals behave differently. The octopus was always there. The crabs were always there. The shrimp were always there. I was the one who hadn't been looking at the right time.
Give your eyes a moment to adjust, then move a hand through the water, and sometimes tiny blue-green sparks appear around your fingers. The flashes come from microscopic organisms capable of producing their own light, a phenomenon called bioluminescence. For a moment, those sparks may be all you can see.
Of course, everything outside the beam of my light is still there. I just can't see it. Every so often during a night dive, I like to stop somewhere safe and turn my light off. It is easy to forget just how dark the Salish Sea can be until the beam disappears.
I like to wait in that darkness for a little while before turning my light back on, partly because I never know what might be there when I do. Usually, nothing unexpected happens. Maybe an inquisitive rockfish has moved in for a closer look.
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One night, I turned my light back on and found myself face-to-face with a sea lion. For a moment, neither of us moved. I stared at the sea lion. The sea lion stared back at me. I have no idea how long it had been there or how close it had come before I turned on my light. It had known exactly where I was. I hadn't known it was there at all. That encounter reinforced what I already knew but at times forget: the beam of my light does not define what is around me. It only defines what I can see.
All of this is part of what makes night diving so much fun. It is also why it deserves additional preparation. Night diving requires appropriate training and equipment. Darkness removes visual references, makes navigation more difficult, changes how buddies communicate and can turn a minor problem into a much more stressful one. A reliable primary light and appropriate backup lights are essential. Buddies need to agree on light signals before entering the water, stay aware of each other's lights, and avoid shining them directly into another diver's eyes. Navigation deserves particular attention. A shoreline or exit that is obvious during the day may become surprisingly difficult to recognize after sunset. Diving a familiar site helps because you already understand the underwater terrain instead of trying to learn it in darkness. And this is still the Salish Sea. Darkness does nothing to eliminate cold water, tides or currents.
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Gas management, exposure protection, depth limits and the other fundamentals of safe diving still apply. Night diving simply adds another layer. Appropriate training matters, and divers should build experience gradually, stay within their training and comfort level, and make conservative decisions. The goal isn't to prove that you are comfortable in the dark. It is to be comfortable enough to enjoy what the darkness reveals. Some of my favorite night dives happen at places I already know. Even after years of diving here, it is easy to mistake familiarity for knowing a place. We dive at certain times. We follow familiar routes. We look where experience has taught us to look. Then the sun goes down, and the same few hundred yards of shoreline become somewhere new.
Eventually, every night dive ends. The lights along shore grow brighter as I make my way back. The bottom rises beneath me, and I surface near where the dive began. A few minutes later, I am back on shore, looking out across the water. From there, the Salish Sea gives away very little. The surface reflects whatever light reaches it, while everything beneath it disappears. I may know the reef below me. I may know where to look for certain animals and what I am likely to find there. But somewhere beyond the reach of the shore lights, things are happening that I will never see. I like that. No matter how familiar a dive site becomes, the next night dive can still surprise me. I just have to turn on my light and start looking.
THOM ROBBINS is a seasoned
diver, underwater photographer, and author with a deep passion for the Pacific Northwest and its marine life. With over thirty years of diving experience, Thom has spent countless hours beneath the surface, documenting the mysterious beauty of wolf eels, octopuses, and nudibranchs as well as seals and sealions. His underwater videos and photographs bring the hidden world of the Salish Sea to life, captivating both online and print audiences. He is a regular contributor to the Fjord.
TM
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Expanding Access to Care for Our Patients and Community
From left to right, top: Laura Ring, RN; Amanda Diaz, RN; Traci Wiley, RN; Lashya Johns, CNA; Director of Birth Center Kris Gaa, RN; bottom: Meghan Olson, MD; Dulce Casal, RN; Nikki Ann Medina, DO; Alisha Wedding-Lambert, CNM; Andrea Martin, MD; Kym Walker, MD; and Danielle Blood, MD.
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Visit our website: www.masonhealth.com 29 FJORD Public Hospital No.1 of Mason County, Washington, d.b.a Mason Health complies with applicable Federal civil rights laws and does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, national origin, age, disability, or sex (consistent with the scope of sex discrimination described at 45 CFR § 92.101(a)(2)), including sex characteristics, including intersex traits; pregnancy or related conditions; sexual orientation; and gender identity. Mason Health does not exclude people or treat them less favorably because of race, color, national origin, age, disability, or sex.
OYSTERFEST
A taste of fall on the Olympic Peninsula When the first weekend of October arrives in Mason County, the air turns crisp, oysters hit the grill, and thousands of visitors make their way to Shelton’s Sanderson Field for OysterFest. More than a seafood festival, this 45 year tradition is a celebration of food, family, music—and the remarkable generosity of a small community. OysterFest began in 1982, when local Rotarian Dick Oltman dreamed up a festival to complement the springtime Mason County Forest Festival. The Skookum Rotary Club, liked his ideas, seeing an opportunity for an event that brought people together while supporting its charitable mission. A little research suggested the first weekend of October was typically one of the region’s better bets for a break in the rain. The rest is history.
The inaugural festival was an instant hit. Organizers hoped to simply break even, but crowds were so hungry that vendors sent volunteers back into town for more oysters and supplies. For its first 35 years, OysterFest filled the Mason County Fairgrounds before moving to Sanderson Field in 2012. The setting changed, but the spirit didn’t. Today, the festival is still strong, powered by volunteers, service clubs, and local nonprofits.
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Of course, oysters remain the focus. But there’s plenty more to enjoy: live music, family-friendly activities, local wine and craft beer, and the famously fast-paced West Coast Oyster Shucking Championship. Over the years, OysterFest collected its share of stories, too. There was the skydiver who landed—unexpectedly— on a Mason County commissioner. The time organizers drilled into the asphalt to drain a puddle, only to make it bigger. And the year Senator Scoop Jackson made headlines after an overly friendly local bee decided to pay him a visit.
IF YOU GO:
OysterFest is hosted at the Shelton Airport, located at 250 W Sanderson Way, off Hwy 101. There’s parking available on site and handicap parking available near the gates. Staying a while? They've got an RV/dry camping village just for the event, and there are plenty of great motels, resorts and cabins to rent nearby! Visit explorehoodcanal.com for lodging and activity options. The celebration gets underway Friday night, October 2, with OysterFunk, a 21+ evening of food, music, and fun. Then the main festival takes over Saturday, October 3, from 10 AM to 6 PM, and Sunday, October 4, from 10 AM to 5 PM. More than 10,000 visitors, hundreds of RV campers, and thousands of volunteers come together for one of Mason County’s biggest weekends of the year. Come for the oysters. Stay for the music, the beer garden, the shucking competition—and the unmistakable feeling of a community putting its best shell forward.
OYSTERFUNK PRE-EVENT Friday, October 2, 6 – 10 PM Food, drinks and oysters are available for purchase and music by: Stir Crazy. Tickets $5 available online or at the gate. FREE parking. This is a 21+ event hosted by the Shelton Rotary Club.
OYSTERFEST HOURS October 3 – 4, Saturday: 10 – 6 PM | Sunday: 10 – 5 PM
TICKETS Ticket Prices: Adults $15.00 Two-day tickets available online for $25.00. 17 and under FREE. Tickets available online at oysterfest.org or at the gate. Parking and shuttles are both free of charge. Please no pets except service animals. Visit oysterfest.org for information and updates or reach out on Facebook!
Plan your visit at oysterfest.org.
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shellfish map Our Local Bivalves
Get to know a few species NATIVE LITTLENECK CLAM
Up to 3.5” with rounded shell displaying concentric rings and radiating ridge lines, cream, gray, brown, or mottled. White inside shell; found at 6-10” deep in gravel, mud, mid-tide level.
Forage Safely on the Wild Side.
Mason County’s saltwater bays and inlets OLYMPIC are renown for some of the tastiest bivalves NATIONAL FO in the Northwest. Each year public beaches OLYMPIC stocked for families toPARK enjoy – but always NATIONAL check before you harvest! For shellfish closures, advisories and beach conditions: EAG Expan doh.wa.gov/shellfishsafety. prope 119
Warm Parkin
MANILA LITTLENECK CLAM (NOT NATIVE)
Up to 2.5”, oblong shell, Color can vary—typically gray,brown, or mottled and often times with what appears to be hand painted designs; some purple on the inside shell; found at 2-4” in gravel, mud, sand, typically above the half-tide level.
BUTTER CLAM
Up to 5”, shell with concentric rings (no radiating ridge lines), Yellow to gray/white colored; found at 1-1.5’ in sand, gravel, or cobble; lower intertidal or shallow sub-tidal zone. Butter clams retain marine biotoxins longer than other clams.
COCKLE CLAM
Up to 5” with round shell; prominent evenly-spaced radiating ridges fanning from hinge; mottled, light brown color; found at 1-2” in sand, mud in intertidal or sub-tidal zone.
PACIFIC OYSTERS (NOT NATIVE)
Up to 12”, white/gray oblong shell with irregular, wavy edges; found in intertidal zone; tumbled (farmed) Pacifics have cupped shape with fragile shells.
OLYMPIA OYSTER
Up to 3”, rounded shell, white to purplish black and may be striped with yellow or brown; oyster’s flesh is a light olive green with a metallic flavor. Native oyster to the area and currently protected in wild habitats.
LILLIWAUP STATE PARK
Full off on Hwy 101, stairway to beach at north opening of Lilliwaup Bay. Walk north or south when tide is out. Oysters and Clams. Eagles andOLYMPIC osprey. Overnight RV camping permitted; no restrooms. NATIONAL FOREST
FJORD OYSTER BANK 24341 N US Hwy 101, Hoodsport (360) 877-2102 Serving up the dishes inspired by chef Xinh Dwelley the Fjord specializes in fresh oysters on the half shell sources from farms around Mason County. Serving seafood, local beers and wines as well as house made desserts, this has become a destination for local diners.
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Public boat dock with beach access. Starfish and crabs at low tide. Closed to shellfish gathering. Picnic tables & restrooms, nearby dining, grocery and shopping.
POTLATCH BEACH PAR
Longest stretch of public beach, popular for s ming, kayaking, and picnics. Camping & rest
TAYLOR SHELLFISH 130 SE Lynch Rd Shelton (360) 432-3300 Taylor’s products include geoduck, clams, crab, mussels and oysters. Headquartered in Kamilche, retail store is open daily. taylorshellfish.com
M AT LO C K
WALKER PARK
MUSSELS
Blue Mussel (native) up to 3”, California Mussel (native) up to 6”, Mediterranean non-native) up to 5”. Oblong shell, blueblack or brown, attaches to rocks, pilings, boats, gravel, or other hard surfaces in the intertidal zone with bissel threads.
GEODUCK
Up to 10”, 2.5 – 10 lbs. Gaping oblong shell with concentric rings; white shell with flaky brown skin; siphon and mantle are too large to withdraw; found at depth of 2-3’ in mud, sand, gravel in the sub-tidal zone (extreme low tides). 32 explorehoodcanal.com
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Beach access, playground, restrooms, basketball court. Olympic Hwy to Arcad Rd take Left on Walker Park Rd, Park is No shellfish harvest. No passes req
OYSTER BAY
Easy beach access on marshy estuary. P for bird watching and salmon observin Pullout on Hwy 101 near Mile Marker 3 KENNEDY CREEK INTERPRETATIVE T
CHECK. CHILL. COOK. TR ITON 101
C OREST
EL D O N
HAMA HAMA OYSTER SALOON 35846 US-101, Lilliwaup 5th generation farm serves oysters prepared to order with an ever changing menu of seasonal local ingredients. Retail store and farm dining. hamahamaoyster.com
DEWATTO BAY
HAMMA HAMMA
GLE CREEK
BELFAIR STATE PARK
Nice beaches for walking and exploring with summer water temperatures surprisingly warm. Restrooms, camping and picnic facilities.
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DEWATTO
LILLIWAU P
3
Visitor Information
H O O DS P ORT
MENARD’S LANDING
Visitor Information
ALLYN
Expansive beach (at low tide), picnic area, and views of the Olympics. RENDSLAND CREEK, DNR owned clams and oysters open all year.
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Gazebo, garden, play area, pier, restrooms and beach access with boat ALLYN launch.
TAHU YA
P OT LATCH
RK
106
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Excellent camping, swimming, kayaking, picnic sites, and shellfish harvesting.
M A SON UNION CITY MARKETL A K E
Visitor Information
NORTH BAY
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GRAPEVIEW
5101 E State Route 106 | Union | (360) 898-3500 3 Art, gifts, seafood and grocery items and seasonal cafe DNR 24/GRAPEVIEW, DNR beach clams and oysters open within a working marina. all year. Access by boat only.
HUNTER FARMS
921 WA-106, Union | (360) 426-2222 Direct farm to market retail includes 101 Hood Canal oysters at the general store located on the farm.
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HOPE ISLAND STATE PARK
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Visitor S H E LTON
Information
A R CA DIA
A 106-acre marine camping park reachable only by boat. Covered with old-growth forests and saltwater marshes, the park features a beach oneand-a-half miles long. Access by boat only.
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Popular ng/fishing. 356; near TRAIL. 108
CHELSEA FARMS OYSTER BAR
KA M ILC HE Visitor Information 101
Here are a few locations that serve Hood Canal & South Puget Sound seafood on their menus. Bistro at Lakeland Village
Restaurant at Alderbrook
Boat House Restaurant
Spencer Lake Bar & Grill
The Fjord Oyster Bank
Squaxin Island Seafood Bar
Hama Hama Oyster Saloon
Taylor Station
Hook & Fork
Tides Family Restaurant
18340 E WA 3, Allyn (360) 275-2954
H A R ST I N E I S LA N D
picnic shelter and dia Rd, from Arcadia s on right. quired.
Local Seafood
470 E Country Club Dr, Allyn (360) 277-4137
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3
Community park offers beach access, a picnic area and portable restroom and is very popular with kayakers, fishermen and local residents. Located on SR-3 at the south end of Allyn. The parking area is open only during the shellfish season.
TWANOH STATE PARK
U NI O N
swimtrooms.
,
Do not harvest in areas with pollution closures. Ask your doctor before eating raw shellfish if you have any concerns about allergies, are taking medications, or have a weakened immune system (such as cancer, liver disease, or HIV). Shellfish are a great and healthy food. Avoid illness by following the 3 C’s.
B E LFAIR
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CHILL: Harvest shellfish on the outgoing tide and put on ice as soon as possible to prevent bacterial growth. Keep them cold until ready to eat. Cover in fridge with a wet cloth to prevent drying out. COOK: Cook shellfish in summer months when Vibrio illnesses can occur. To kill Vibrio bacteria cook shellfish to 145° F for at least 15 seconds, cooking does not destroy biotoxins.
Small beach with dramatic view of the Olympics. Lots of ripe berries in late summer. From Belfair: take the Belfair-Tahuya Road to Dewatto Rd. Continue four miles to Dewatto. Parking limited.
nsive beach when tide is out, obey erty signs. Excellent oyster beach. m enough for swimming in summer. ng across from Eagle Creek Saloon.
CHECK: Health advisories: doh.wa.gov/shellfishsafety Harvesting closures: wdfw.wa.gov/fishing/shellfishing-regulation Signs on the beach: Follow posted warnings and respect private property.
35846 US-101, Lilliwaup (360) 877-5811
5101 E State Route 106, Union (360) 898-3500
222 CAPITOL WAY N, OLYMPIA | (360) 915-7784 Eld & Totten Inlet, South Puget Sound Chelsea Farm have made a priority of farming the native Olympia oyster that was on it’s way to extinction. Visit their oyster bar in Olympia for local seafood experience! chelseafarms.net
24341 N US Hwy 101, Hoodsport (360) 877-2102
10 E Alderbrook Dr, Union (360) 898-2200
1180 E Pickering Rd, Shelton (360) 426-2505
91 West State Route 108, Shelton (360) 432-7120 62 SE Lynch Rd, Shelton (360) 426-8501 27061 US-101, Hoodsport (360) 877-8921
View more area dining at explorehoodcanal.com Shellfish served and sold commercially have been tested and only sourced from approved shellfish gathering areas. Harvesting your own? Always check the Washington State Department of Health map the day you plan to harvest – doh.wa.gov/shellfishsafety. You can also call the Shellfish Safety Hotline at 1-800-562-5632.
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Meet Washington’s local
OYSTERS Merrior Lingo:
Brininess: Seawater flavor Sweet: Mild & sweet
Salinity: A fully saline oyster will have a very briny taste while oysters with low salinity taste sweet or buttery. Texture: Soft, fleshy, or crisp on palate.
Finish: Common are mineral, metallic, earthy, “kelpy,” cucumber, or melon.
There’s a lot more to an oyster than meets the eye. From the shape of its shell to the flavor of the water where it was grown, every oyster tells a story. Look closely at the shell. Taste the meat. Notice the finish. Then try another. That’s the fun of Washington oysters: the farther you taste your way around the map, the more of the Northwest you discover. FJORD
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Meet the top 4 oysters you’re likely to find in Washington waters.
#1. OLYMPIA
#2.PACIFIC
#4.VIRGINICA
Once shucked, shellfish will keep refrigerated for up to 3 days. Cooked shellfish can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. For longer storage, shucked or cooked can be frozen for up to three months. Thaw frozen shellfish in the refrigerator and use within 2 days—and never refreeze once thawed.
The Olympia is Washington’s native oyster. Its petite shell and distinctive metallic, savory flavor make it a favorite among oyster aficionados. Once abundant throughout Puget Sound and Willapa Bay, Olympia oysters were harvested heavily beginning in the 1800s until the wild fishery collapsed. Today, growers and restoration groups are working to bring this little Northwest original back to its native waters.
When Olympia oyster populations declined, Washington growers turned to the Eastern, or Virginica, oyster in the early 1900s. Native to the Atlantic Coast, Virginicas struggled to adapt to Northwest waters and suffered significant die-offs. They’re still cultivated by Washington growers today, though on a much smaller scale than Pacific oysters.
Originally from Japan, Pacific oysters have become the backbone of the commercial oyster industry. Growers began importing seed in the early 1900s, with commercial quantities arriving in the 1930s. Today, Pacific oysters thrive along the West Coast and are grown in bays and inlets from Willapa Bay to Puget Sound. Since the 1970s, growers have relied on hatcheries to supply the next generation.
#3.KUMAMOTO
Small, deeply cupped and sweet, the Kumamoto is originally from Japan’s Kumamoto Prefecture. These oysters don’t readily reproduce in Northwest waters, so growers depend on hatchery stock. The coveted deep cup has also inspired growers to get creative with new varieties of Pacifics. By tumbling or flipping Pacific oysters as they grow, farmers can shape the shells into the deeper cups prized by raw-bar fans.
KEEP IT SAFE
First things first: keep them cold. From the moment you bring oysters home, refrigerate them in an open container beneath a damp towel. Never store live shellfish in water—they need air to survive. Before you buy, give each oyster a tap. A live oyster should be tightly closed or snap shut when tapped. If it stays open, leave it behind. Oysters, littleneck clams, butter clams and cockles that close completely can generally be refrigerated for up to seven days. Mussels are best enjoyed within three to four days, and shellfish that cannot completely close — such as geoducks, horse clams, softshell clams and razor clams — should also be used within three to four days.
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Thirty Years of Quilcene
A Small-Town Fair with a Big Heart In Quilcene, that changing of the seasons means it's time to pull up a chair along Highway 101, find the kids and wave to the neighbors—the Quilcene Fair & Parade is back. And this year, there's an extra reason to celebrate. On Saturday, September 19 the Quilcene Fair & Parade marks its 30th anniversary, bringing together three decades of floats, classic cars, music, food, crafts, kids and community spirit. The fair runs from 10 AM to 3 PM, with free admission and activities for the whole family. Expect local vendors, arts and crafts, food, music and plenty of reasons to linger. But the centerpiece is still the parade. At 11 AM, attention turns to Highway 101 as the annual parade makes its way through town. This isn't a parade that requires towering grandstands or elaborate staging. Part of its charm is that it belongs to the community—an old-fashioned procession through the middle of a small town where you are likely to recognize someone coming down the road. Local organizations and community groups join the procession, and the Jefferson County Rhododendron Festival Royalty is scheduled to make an appearance this year.
The celebration continues at the annual car show alongside local vendors, food, arts and crafts, live music and family activities. Kids will have their own reasons to get excited, including Strait Up Foam Fun—because sometimes the ingredients for a perfect September Saturday really are as simple as a field full of foam and permission to get messy. This year, the Fair is just the beginning of a lively September weekend in Quilcene. Later Saturday, the music continues at Quilcene Lantern with Olympickin', a bluegrass celebration featuring regional string bands, a community square dance, local microbrews, food vendors and plenty of space for musicians to bring their own instruments and join the jamming. Sunday after the fair is filled with events too. The Quilcene Oyster Races return September 20 at Worthington
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Park Quilcene with a half marathon, 10K, 5K and a free kids' sprint.The half marathon begins at 9 AM, followed by the kids' sprint at approximately 9:15 and the 10K and 5K beginning at 10 and 10:10 AM. Afterward, runners can celebrate in a particularly Quilcene fashion: oysters are scheduled to be served beginning at 11 AM, when the craft beer garden also opens.
IF YOU GO:
30th Anniversary Quilcene Fair & Parade Saturday, September 19, 10 AM–3 PM Quilcene, Washington Admission: Free Car Show: 10 AM Parade: 11 AM Expect: Local vendors, food, arts and crafts, music, family activities, car show and Strait Up Foam Fun. quilcenefair.org
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Park Free Days 2026 Washington State
Parks Discover Pass A one-day pass is $10, while the annual Discover Pass is $45 and can be registered to two vehicles, though it may only be used by one vehicle at a time. If you’re camping overnight in a state park, your camping fee covers parking at that park, so an additional Discover Pass isn’t required. Washington also offers several Discover Pass Free Days throughout the year. Saturday, Sept. 26 National Public Lands Day Saturday, Oct. 10 World Mental Health Day Wednesday, Nov. 11 Veterans Day
Olympic National Park Olympic requires a Federal entrance pass. A standard pass is $30 per private vehicle and covers everyone in the vehicle for seven consecutive days. Motorcycles are $25, while visitors entering on foot or bicycle pay $15 per person (ages 16+). Frequent visitors can purchase an Olympic National Park Annual Pass for $55, or use an eligible America the Beautiful federal lands pass. 2026 free entrance: September 17 Constitution Day October 27: Theodore Roosevelt's birthday November 11: Veterans Day
Paddle into the Glow
bioluminescence tours There are plenty of reasons to paddle Hood Canal during the day—the views,
friendly seals, intertidal life —but after sunset, there's another reason —the water begins to glow. Through September 26, Hood Canal Adventures is taking paddlers out from Brinnon for two-hour nighttime kayak tours in search of one of the canal's natural phenomena: bioluminescence.
One night may be about brilliant glowing water; another might bring moonlight, meteors, nocturnal wildlife or the simple pleasure of floating quietly beneath the stars.
Produced by tiny organisms, the effect can be almost otherworldly. Dip a paddle beneath the surface and a trail of blue-green sparks follow your blade. Swirl your hand through the water and points of light scatter like underwater fireflies. Even the wake of a kayak can shimmer in the darkness. The more the water is disturbed by paddles, hands and kayaks, the more opportunity there is to “activate” the bioluminescent plankton. On a good night, every stroke leaves a glowing trail behind.
As our days get noticeably shorter and cooler, the first hints of fall are beginning to settle into the forest. But summer isn't quite finished. There are still a few nights left to pull on a warm layer, climb into a kayak and push away from shore and watch the fjord light up!
It's part science lesson, part wildlife encounter and part summer-night magic. Guides know where and when to look for the phenomena and can show paddlers how best to stir up the sparkle, but the rest of the evening is up to the whims of Hood Canal.
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IF YOU GO: Hood Canal Adventures Bioluminescence Kayak Tours Brinnon, Washington September 18, 19, 20, 25, 26 Approximately two hours beginning in evening (8 PM). Dress warm. If they must cancel the tour due to weather, the full amount will be refunded. $125 Registration is required, bookings are available at hoodcanaladventures.com
PHOTO: GEORGE STENBERG
Hood Canal autumn road trip
Hoodsport
Sometimes the best fall getaway is the little town just up the road. We locals are guilty of it. We send visitors to Hoodsport, Lake Cushman and the Olympic Mountains all the time, yet somehow we forget to take a day and enjoy these places ourselves. Fall is a particularly good time to change that. As the summer bustle fades, Hoodsport settles back into its comfortable small-town rhythm. The air turns crisp, the crowds thin, salmon make their way back to our rivers and streams. It's the perfect excuse to explore your own backyard. Begin at Potlatch State Park. Pull of 101 and Hood Canal stretches out expansively before you. Walk the shoreline, watch for birds and seals, or bring your morning coffee and find a place to sit for a while. Sometimes it takes stopping at a place we've driven past a hundred times to remember just how extraordinary our backyard really is. In Hoodsport, park the car and wander. Visit Jen and her team at Canalside Gifts & Liquors, an independent shop where browsing is half the fun.
You'll find wine and spirits along gifts, cards, jewelry, décor and local goodies— you'll inevitably discover something perfect. Then seek out some art. At Patches, creativity and community come together in a space where you can browse artwork, grab a coffee, cocktail, and see what's new. Open earlier this summer this water view gallery is gradually finding its rhythm as well. Creative businesses like this and the new Sea Fog Co-op provide a place for local artists to be discovered and give visitors something they can't find at the next highway stop. For a tiny town, Hoodsport also offers some surprising opportunities to taste the local area.
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At The Hardware Distillery, owners Jan and Chuck Morris have turned an old Hoodsport hardware store into a craft distillery with a great sense of place. The building itself dates to 1930 and has served the community in several incarnations over the decades. Today, the bottles on its shelves tell a different chapter of the Hoodsport story, with spirits incorporating Washington-grown grains, fruit and honey. Nearby, wine lovers stop in at Stottle Winery's Hoodsport tasting room, while Potlatch Brewing Company offers another reason to linger over something locally crafted. Just remember: you're a local playing tourist, so there's no hurry. Pick one, enjoy it and save another for your next Hoodsport day.
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If you're ready to stretch your legs, turn up Highway 119 toward Lake Cushman and stop at Hoodsport Community Trail Park. You don't have to drive all the way into Olympic National Park to disappear into the forest for a while. Trails wind through the trees and along Dow Creek, offering an easy outing for families, visitors and locals looking for a little fresh air without committing to a major hike. It's particularly lovely in fall, when wet leaves, moss, mushrooms and the smell of cedar make even a short walk feel like a proper Northwest adventure.
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Eventually, you'll want something good to eat. Make your way to The Fjord Oyster Bank, housed in Hoodsport's former bank building beside Finch Creek and overlooking the Hoodsport Fish Hatchery. During the fall, the Fjord is open Friday through Sunday, making it an easy weekend stop for lunch, dinner or simply an afternoon spent lingering over oysters. Inside you'll also find a curated bookstore and gift shop, with books, local finds, Northwest classics and gifts tucked around the old bank vault. It's the kind of place where you can order lunch, browse for a book and leave with something you never knew you needed. Food, however, remains the heart of the experience within the legacy of Mason County's beloved chef, Xinh Dwelley. Xinh became a culinary legend during the 26 years she operated her restaurant in Shelton. Her warmth was as memorable as her cooking, and generations remember meals built around fresh Northwest seafood infused with the flavors of her Vietnamese heritage. Before her passing, Xinh helped shape the food served at the Fjord. Today, these recipes continue to be the staple of the daily menu. Grab a blanket, settle beneath the heaters on the covered patio and enjoy a steaming bowl of
Xinh's curry beside Finch Creek. Just beyond your table something remarkable could be happening – salmon completing one of nature's great journeys just beyond your table. Fall also means salmon season in Hoodsport. Returning fish make their way into Finch Creek toward the Hoodsport Fish Hatchery, completing a life cycle that has played out in these waters for generations. Watching them is beautiful, fascinating and, at times, a little startling. The salmon fight their way upstream, spawn and eventually die, returning nutrients to the ecosystem as another generation begins. After lunch, walk over toward the hatchery viewing areas for a closer look, being mindful of private tidelands and the fish themselves. Bring a jacket. Wear shoes that can handle a muddy trail. Buy a book. Look at some art. Walk through the woods. Watch the salmon. Eat an oyster. Taste something made locally. Sit beside the water longer than you intended. Most importantly, stop and talk to the people who live and work here. We spend a lot of time telling visitors how lucky they are to discover Hood Canal. Every once in a while, those of us who live here should take our own advice. Go rediscover Hoodsport.
Hoodsport Trail offers variety in terrain and makes a great afternoon walk with low commitment.
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Wild side
Harvest Salal, evergreen huckleberry and the often overlooked bounty of a Pacific Northwest fall
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Stella Wenstob | photos & story
Summer is fading, its warmth edged by the cool, crispness of fall. Theres a dampness that only can be shaken by a warm fire or a cozy drink. It is almost time to dig into the back of your closet and find that sweater that you forgot about last Spring, but you know that if you put it on in the morning, by lunch time you’ll be sweating it off. They call September a transition month, but menopausal might be more accurate. Salmon start working their way up inlets and streams and blackberries begin to rot on the vine. But this is not the end of the natural bounty of the Pacific Northwest. Oysters are ready for the picking. And local fruit, such as the purplish berry-like swollen sepal’s of salal (Gaultheria shallon) and the dark or sometimes bluish evergreen huckleberry (Vaccinium ovatum) are adapted to the dampness, they contain high proanthocyanidins, which have strong antimicrobial properties that deter moulding. These proanthocyanidins are a type of tannin that are found in tree barks, roots, leaves, and fruits of plants, but the salal berry’s content is charted as one of the highest in the berry world (higher in some healthy compounds than blueberry, lingonberry, and cranberry). A local super fruit salal contains compounds high in antioxidants that are full of health benefits, such as decreasing inflation, promoting cardiovascular health as well as a myriad of nutritional benefits. SALAL As a child I delighted in pinching the base of the slightly fuzzy fruit to pop them open revealing their inner five-pointed star shape. This shape marks salal as an untrue berry (or pseudoberry, according to botanists). True berries are formed by the swelling of the ovary or fruiting body of the flower, whereas salal (and other nontrue berries like blueberry) are formed from the swollen outer sepals of the flower. Growing up on the the west coast of Vancouver Island, I remember breaking off the reddish branches that the fruit
form on in uneven clusters of 5 to 15 and pretending I was eating grapes. Which isn’t that far off since Shiraz grape berry skins are also famous for their high levels of proanthocyanidins (but still only roughly half the amount that salal does). There was a myth in my hometown that the Vinland that the Vikings discovered was not L’Anse Aux Meadows off the East Coast of Canada, but the Pacific Northwest with its dripping salal berries. Of course, while fantasy versions of history are diverting, the truth is always more fascinating. salal was incredibly important to the Indigenous people of the Pacific Northwest. It is named in 30 languages, even language groups that didn’t see the plant growing locally (Turner 2014) but valued the berries as a trade good. [Just as an aside, there are over 50 distinct Indigenous languages spoken in the Pacific Northwest, that is the area from Alaska to Oregon– making this one of the most linguistically diverse parts of the world]. Along the Hood Canal, the Skokomish (Twana) have two words for salal: t́ a’qe, which refers specifically to the plant, and t́ a’qa?, which refers to the berry (Nile Thompson, undated, Skokomish Tribal Centre). The word salal comes from the Chinook Jargon, an Indigenous trade language, first recorded by the 18051806 Lewis and Clark expedition as variously shallon, shelwel or shellwell. This was later tightened up to salal or sallal by the Scottish botanist David Douglas (of Douglas Fir fame) when he visited Fort George (near present day Astoria) in 1825.
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As its linguistic significance attests salal was widely enjoyed by Native Americans of the Pacific Northwest. There are extensive records of seeds and whole berries recovered from archaeological sites. And it is remembered how berries were harvested in huge numbers, Nancy Turner in her 2014 volume estimates this to be 100,000 to 200,000 berries per family per year. These were cooked using hot rocks and then dried into cakes that would last into the winter. These cakes were often traded from coastal tribes into the interior to tribes that did not have this delicacy. To take away the dryness, when eating them they were dipped in eulachan, seal or whale oil. The leafy branches are also useful in pit cooks. The berries were also crushed up and mixed with salmon eggs to make paint. And it is recorded that the leaves were used in teas to ease inflation and they were often chewed as a hunger suppressant. Even today salal still plays an important part in the Pacific Northwest’s economy. Known commonly as “lemon leaf ” it is an ubiquitous green found in commercial floral arrangements.
Salal's very distinctive structure makes it stand out on a forest walk.
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My dad loves to pick ripe salal berries in late August to mid-September. He recently discovered a hack to separating the stems from the berries (a task that if often tedious and unsatisfactory as it often bursts the tender berries) – he picks the berries complete with their red stems and freezes them on baking trays overnight, the next day the frozen berries are firm enough to separate from the stems without damage. My dad’s speciality is salal berry jelly, and it is a favorite with its rich, earthy flavou. My brother in-law calls it “medicine”. My dad is a creative cook, and I have a strong childhood memory of dad straining the tiny seeds from his boiled concoction with a pair of my mum’s pantyhose. Thankfully, dad now uses a metal strainer, but these seeds are important in the boiling stage for imparting lots of natural pectin that helps the jelly set. Another use my sister, over at the Fjord Oyster Bank, recently discovered was rendering the berries into a syrup which she used as a base for gelato! As a nod to more traditional methods of preparing salal, the internet abounds with recipes for making fruit leather with salal. I have not trued this, but its antimicrobial properties and its pulpy texture make it a natural fit for this method. EVERGREEN HUCKLEBERRY Evergreen Huckleberry (or cynamoka) is another local super fruit that becomes available in the Pacific Northwest from late summer to late fall (some even say the berries taste better after the first frost). They are known as the ya’ýaXbi (the bush) and ya’ýaX∂b (the fruit) to the Skokomish (Nile Thompson, undated, Skokomish Tribal Centre).
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This sometimes dark and glossy or sometime cloudy and blue berry is my favourite berry to pick and preserve. I freeze them and love to have them with
yogurt and homemade granola. They are also fantastic in baking, brightening up scones, muffins with their tangy flavor. Basically, anywhere you could use blueberries you can use these, but it will taste ten times better. Of course, my dad also like to make jelly of Evergreen Huckleberry too. Like salal, Evergreen Huckleberry rates high on the healthy scale. According to Rossier’s survey of the literature around the healthfulness of Evergreen Huckleberry for her 2019 thesis documenting the traditional management and harvest of Evergreen Huckleberry amongst the Karuk, Yurok, and Hupa people of Northern California and Southern Oregon: “Anthocyanins, a subclass of polyphenols that provides the blue, purple, and red pigments found particularly in dark berries such as V. ovatum, have been specifically researched regarding their ability to: 1) reduce Type II diabetes and associated issues (e.g. hyperglycemia, related kidney disorders, insulin resistance), obesity, and cardiovascular disease; 2) enhance vision; 3) be neuroprotective, 4) be antimicrobial against foodborne pathogens (e.g. Escherichia coli, Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella enteritidis, among others) while preserving probiotic strains, and 5) be anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, and chemoprotective against a variety of cancers, including breast and colon cancers” (20-21, 2019).
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Salal is a major food source for the Pacific Northwest people. The Makah of Northwestern tip of the Olympic (and possibly other Northwest tribes), were known to actively manage Evergreen Huckleberry bushes through pruning (also called by coppice) and by controlled burning (Turner 2014) to encourage berry productivity. Likewise, Evergreen Huckleberry is a popular cut green for floral arrangements commercially, though it is not as popular as salal.
SHUCK & SHARE 5K+1 RUN Save the date for the Shuck & Share 5K+1 Run/Walk
Sunday, October 4, 2026
Race starts and ends at: Huff-n-Puff Trail 3600 Shelton Springs Rd. Shelton, WA 98584
More Registration Information:
www.pud3.org/run
Scan Registration Code
All profits support Project Share, an assistance program helping low-income families with their electric bills. FJORD
46
Some people get fanatical about picking wild berries in season. They plan out their time off in terms of berry picking hours, make special berry picking buckets out of 8L ice cream buckets and rain pant bib straps, and drive dusty logging roads or hike out to find their special patch. I was raised valuing the berry-stained hands and the delicious taste of a sun warmed berry straight off the branch, I always travel with an empty bucket in the back of my car “just-in-case”, but the berry-picking process doesn’t have to be strenuous to be satisfying. It can be as easy as a walk in the park (literally). Not only is it a lovely way to spend your time, aside from a few bug bites and branch scratches, it’s a very healthy past time and people for millennia have been celebrating and enjoying these fruits of the earth. Stella Wenstob is is historian and researcher residing on Vancouver Island's outer coast. She is a regular contributor to Tracing the Fjord.
THINGS TO DO
FALLS TO FISHING
45 MAP/LODGING
SHELTON & KAMILCHE
48 Situated between the Puget Sound and Olympic Mountains in Mason County, is Hood Canal. A place filled with world-class activities, wild-caught fare, lively events, and plenty of places to hide away from it all when you just want the world to yourself.
MAP/LODGING HOOD CANAL AREA
49-55
Hood Canal is Washington’s wild side. And it’s here for you, when you’re ready to discover yours. #WILDSIDEWA
KAYAKING
Whether you seek tide-ripped saltwater passages, Challenging whitewater, or lakes big and small, Hood Canal is a kayaker, canoer, or paddleboarder’s ideal destination. A rich paddling community supports any adventurer’s vision; rental packages and lesson opportunities for the budding kayaker or paddleboarder are not in short supply. Get out on the water and enjoy a fresh perspective of the canal with colossal peaks towering overhead.
47
FJORD
From the Fjeld to the Fjord
EXPERIENCE THE
WILD SIDE OF WASHINGTON Like a giant fish hook weaving beneath the Olympics with a web of inlets, Hood Canal is poised to catch your Imagination and reel in memories for years to come.This majestic saltwater fjord hosts unparalleled shellfish, shrimp, crab, and salmon and is renown as a diving mecca with its glacial formation causing underwater biomes that appear nowhere else.Venture away from the canal to Olympic National Park and Olympic National Forest for hiking and Thrilling vistas. Choose from hundreds of easy access freshwater lakes or revel in waterfall views including the Iconic High Steel Bridge. Ablaze with wildflowers in the spring, hidden swimming holes in the summer, a chance To see spawning salmon in the fall, and snow-capped peaks in the winter, there is never an inopportune Time to visit Hood Canal.
MOTORSPORTS
T he Ridge Motorsports Park racing course near Shelton includes a fantastic road course that's geared towards club racers and competitors. Head to the DNR forests for some unmatched off-road trail rides.
CLEAR YOUR MIND AND
CHASE WATERFALLS
Hamma Hamma & Rocky Brook are just two of the many falls on Hood Canal waiting to be explored. Want to plan a waterfall getaway? Visit waterfalltrail.org for 25 unique and special places to visit.
TRAILS & WALKS
World-class hiking trails lace the Olympic Mountain wilderness, leading from mountain stream beds through old growth forest to high-altitude ridge lines with breathtaking views of Hood Canal and beyond.
HIGH STEEL BRIDGE
Soaring 420' above the Skokomish River, the High Steel Bridge (1929), is the highest steel truss arch bridge in Washington. You won’t even need to leave the car for this breathtaking view. Follow Skokomish Valley Rd 11 miles from Hwy 101 to reach the bridge.
FJORD
48
TAKE A LEAP We love the folks at SKYDIVE KAPOWSIN! Feel the adrenaline pumping rush of free-fall and experience the freedom of the air with highly trained professional instructors. Views of the fjord and the Olympics and a seven minute free fall adrenaline rush from 13,000 feet will definitely change your outlook.
RIDE THE RAILS
TASTE YOUR WAY AROUND THE CANAL AND SOUND
the rails on a quadricycle excursion. vancecreekrailriders.com
PICK A PEAK From easy day hikes with the family to overnights or “experience needed” excursions – you don’t Have to go far for spectacular memories!
PHOTO: TOBY TAHJA-SYRETT
Do a farm-to-table dining loop experiencing some Northwest flavors – including Hama Hama, Chelsea, Taylor, Fjor Oyster Bank, Hardware Distillery, Stottle Winery, Hood Canal Winery, and, don't miss Olympic Mountain Ice Cream.
Experience nature and history pedaling
FISHING
From open water trolling on the sound to throwing dry flies on small lowland lakes, there are plenty of fishing opportunities in the area. Seek colossal coho in the fall and hungry trout in the spring to see why every season is fishing season in Hood Canal.
BIKING
Don the helmet and clip into your pedals, for there is no shortage of road or trail from which to experience the beauty and thrill of this landscape.
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FJORD
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Dive-in Hood Canal lodging, sales, air, training, rentals, and charters available near renowned destinations like SUND ROCK PRESERVE and OCTOPUS HOLE. yssdive.com
51
FJORD
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Riptide Retreat | 291 East Agate Beach Drive, Shelton | riptideretreat.com
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Shelton Inn | 628 W Railroad Ave, Shelton | (360) 426-4468 | sheltoninn.com
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Super 8 Motel | 2943 Northview Circle, Shelton | (360) 426-1654 | super8.com
N
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OYSTERFEST
52FJORD
OCTOBER 2-4 This event has celebrated the rich aquaculture industry in Mason County for nearly 45 years with vendors, live music, exhibits ad of course -oysters! Learn more by visiting 52 explorehoodcanal.com/events.
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Water view
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RV Sites
Little Creek Casino Resort | W 91 State Route 108, Shelton | (800) 667-7711 | little-creek.com
Kitchen
•
Beach
TV/Cable
•
Pool
Wi/Fi
N
Pets OK
Dining: Onsite (O) Nearby (N)
Harstine Island Beach Cabin | 21 E Dana Dr, Shelton | (253) 943-5264 | harstinerental.com
SHELTON AREA LODGING
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Ta hu ya Riv
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POT LATCH
Cana
ALLYN Waterfront park features AL LYN gazebo and lawns, play Anderson Lake area, and beach access. NO FEE/PASS
l
TAH UYA
Potlatch State Park
S
Crk
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108
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101
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Totten Inlet
Totten Inlet
OYSTER BAY Beach,marshy estuary, for birding, salmon observing or fishing. TO GO: Parking pullout on Hwy 101, marker 356 /Old Olympic Hwy. NO FEE/PASS
SCHAFER STATE PARK TRAIL THE KENNEDY CREEK SALMON TRAIL Trails, interpretive center, swimming, fishing. Chum salmon are on view as they make their way up river TO GO: 12 miles north of Elma on the East Fork TOPOGRAPHY: flat, viewing platforms, interpretive signs of the Satsop River. The park is also accessible TO GO: Hwy 101, Old Olympic Hwy; weekends, seasonally. via the Brady exit from Hwy 12. NO FEE/ PASS DISCOVER PASS REQUIRED 53
Dr
slan d Jarrell Cr
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S End Rd
Island Rd S
ge
E Nor th I
Is
sa HOPE ISLAND STATE Pas PARK D 106 acre park only by water. Pugetreachable Sound Old-growth forests, saltwater marshes, fruit trees, beaches, historical buildings, friendly deer. Destination for kayakers and boaters! TO GO: access by boat, mooring available, beach landing, boats and kayaks can launch at Arcadia Point (0.5 miles). CAMPING FEES
a
La
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Hope Island State Park
Lit t
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WALKER PARK Beach access, playground, restrooms, picnic shelter, kayak access. NO FEE/PASS
Harstine Island
age
SQUAXIN ISLAND TRIBE MUSEUM Stories, photos, art, artifacts dating back over 500 years. TO GO: Hwy 101 to Kamilche exit , follow signs. ADMISSION CHARGE
Squaxin Island
Fa
Dr
Pass
allum Cr k oqu
d lan
Mill Cr k
nell Crk os
TAYLOR SHELLFISH STORE Fresh seafood, tours available; open to public. Hwy 101 to Taylor Towne Exit.
Timber Lake
HARSTINE ISLAND TRAIL 300 acres to explore McMicken EASY 1.5 mile, beach Island DISCOVER PASS
Peale
k Cr
Cl
Rd
Isabella Lake
Cr k
SE Arcadia Rd
3
S
Rock
Campbell
Arcadia
Arcadia Ave
c Hwy SE Olympi
ISABELLA LAKE TRAILS Dayton Peak EASY 2.5 mile loop, rolling meadows TO GO: Hwy 101 exit at SR#3 to Golden Pheasant Rd, right on Delight Park Rd. DISCOVER PASS
vd Bl
Agate
k Cr
Jacobys Shorecrest County Park mersley Inlet Ham
Turner Ave
ke
La
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Jo hn sP rai rie
N 13th St
Rd
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S 1st St
S 10th St
W
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SHELTON
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Jarrell Cove State Park S En d Rd
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Island Lake d
Information, handouts, and maps
um uall loq WC
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Lost Lake
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SHELTON VISITOR CENTER TO GO: Red Caboose on Railroad Avenue
White Star
Spencer Lake
EP
Cr
ill St
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Cr
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102
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DAY TO N
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Stretch Point State Park
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HUNTER FARMS Farm Market, seasonal events; Visitor Center
POTLATCH STATE PARK Longest stretch of PUBLIC BEACH in Mason County with shellfish, kayaking, and Hood Canal water access. DISCOVER PASS REQUIRED
Crk
Pickering Passage
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North Bay
Fair Harbor
Benson Lake
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106
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302
Annas Bay
Skokomish Indian Reservation
Cr k
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Weaver
Be lfa ir m
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101
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Maggie Lake
Twanoh State Park
and
a
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Grisdale Hill
Kirkl
Belfair State Park
C
l Crk Hil
Lake West
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NE O
Cr k
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Crk
Potlatch State Park Campground
BE L FA IR
300
HOODSPORT Finch
Frigid Crk
DEWATTO
rk
3
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Clark Crk
Hoodsport Trail State Park
rk
Dennie Ahl Hill
Crk
Sund Crk
ion
an
Dow Mtn
Miller
Lake Haven
Dewatto Bay
is s
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Tahuya State Forest
Wooten Lake
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LI LLI WAU P
119
n Creek ground
Rd
Big
Lilliwaup Falls
Price Lake
Brown Crk
ay
De wa
Saddle Mtn
Skokomish Park at Lake Cushman
Cushman Hill
tto B
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Big Crk
Lake Cushman
FJORD
Currently closed for fire damage.
Call (360) 565-3131 NATIONAL PARK PASS TO GO: HWY 101 to SR#119, follow FS#24 to Staircase Entrance.
UPPER LENA LAKE TRAIL Steep with unstable bed; camping. MODERATE TO DIFFICULT 4.3 mile climb TOPOGRAPHY: 3,800 foot gain to sub-alpine lake TO GO: Same as Lower Lena Lake Trail above. WILDERNESS PERMIT FOR CAMPING NW FOREST PASS FOR PARKING
RAPIDS LOOP: EASY family friendly 2 mile trail through old growth forest to a bridge over the North Fork Skokomish River; only 200-foot elevation gain. BIG CEDAR, a 0.6 mile spur trail, leads to a fallen cedar while a 0.5 mile section leads to a river viewpoint. FOUR STREAM: EASY 1.2 mile to Beaver Flat, swampy section of alder/cedar forest. Elevation loss 100 ft.
BIG CREEK Great pack-in picnic destination with pools and footbridges. MODERATE 4 miles TO GO: Trailhead at FS#24 and SR#119 junction. NW FOREST PASS Tri t o n Triton Head
WAGONWHEEL LAKE: MODERATE TO DIFFICULT climbing 2.9 miles (elevation gain of 3,365 ft). FLAPJACK LAKES: DIFFICULT climbing 7.8 mile one-way hike (3,115 ft elevation gain).
et Wak
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HAMA HAMA STORE Oyster Saloon, store and fresh seafood market. hamahama.com
Big
Lilliwaup Creek Campground Tenas Lake
Ea gle k Cr tto B
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Fair Harbor
Benson Lake d oo rw S he
MCREAVY HISTORICAL HOUSE Open for tours Saturday and Sundays Shumoc1-4 her CPM rk (Memorial – Labor Day.54 TO GO: SR#106
Reach Island
G ra p e vi e w
3
Stretch Point State Park
let
ok
DALBY WATERWHEEL TO GO: SR#106
b Bo
FJORD Weaver
Cr
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Fin ch Sk
North Bay
In
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UNION
302
VICTOR
Anderson Lake
106
Annas Bay
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AL LYN
vehicle/vessel/fishing/hunting northmasonchamber.com
Twanoh State Park Potlatch State Park
Potlatch State Park Campground
Lake West
Kirkl
Rd ore Sh
TAH UYA
PASSES FOR PURCHASE
h Va
rth
N
101
POT LATCH
a
202
VISITOR CENTER/ BELFAIR LICENSING nal od CaGO: On Hwy 3 in Belfair HoTO PASSES FOR PURCHASE Park/
C
Grisdale Hill
Belfair State Park
Stre
Ha rp
C
MENARD’S LANDING
Expansive beach with panoramic views of Maggie Lake Olympics. Picnic tables. NO FEE/PASS R
Mc l Crk Hil
– information, handouts, maps
DISCOVER PASS
BE L FA IR
on
Crk
Lake Kokanee
HOODSPORT VISITOR CENTER TO GO: Located just off Hwy 101 in Hoodsport
Skok omis
ya R d
3
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s Stin
Finch
Frigid Crk
elf air Tah u
rk
HOODSPORT
rk
Dennie Ahl Hill
NE B
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DEWATTO
Clark Crk
Hoodsport Trail State Park
e ne oka
Crk
Lake Haven
Dewatto Bay
Crk
Miller
ion
Sund Crk
is s
Dow Mtn
Dow Crk
K Lk
Creek round
Wooten Lake
LI LLI WAU P
119
Brown Crk
101
Riv
on ni
M
Cushman Hill
Big
Lilliwaup Falls
Price Lake
TAHUYA STATE FOREST
23,100 acre forest provides open spaces for sightseeing, camping, nature study, fishing, hiking,horse, ATV, ORV, and biking. State ATahuya “working forest” trail Forest may be closed due to forest management activities. TOPOGRAPHY deep woods TO GO: Hwy 300/Belfair 300 Tahuya Rd, 1.1 mile.
Rd
De wa
Saddle Mtn
Skokomish Park at Lake Cushman
ay
tto wa
Co ult
Lake Cushman
Blacksmith Lake
Lake Melbourne
Ri v
Big Creek Campground
119
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p Crk wau Lilli
Mt Rose
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od Skinwork C
North Br
Crk
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rk
Copper Mtn
Cr k
k
Be lfa ir
Mt Washington
Jeffe r Crkson
Cr
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DEWATTO BAY Beach with dramatic view of the Olympics; excellent photography destination. Lots of ripe berries in late summer. TO GO: Belfair-Tahuya Rd to Dewatto Rd, 4 miles. SERVICES AT PORT OF DEWATTO CAMPGROUND
Cr k
Wa sh i ngt
o
EAGLE CREEK Beach access & parking across from Eagle Creek Saloon. NO FEE/PASS
NE O
k Cr
n
eC at
ELDO N H AMMA H AMMA
Ir
k Cr
rk
Big M
rson Jeffe
ar C
Ta hu ya Riv
Mount Skokomish Wilderness
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No
Jefferson Peak
Mt Pershing
k Cr
Cruiser
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Ca
rk
rs o ffe Je
De er C
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Hamma Hamma River
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eh
101
Hamma Hamma Campground
C
ion Cr k
Cr
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LIVING LEGACY TRAIL Spectacular views of the Mt. Skokomish and the Brothers ranges; interpretive signage. Trail passes Hamma Hamma Cabin built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (1930s). EASY TO MODERATE 1.5 mile loop. TOPOGRAPHY: First 0.25 mile is barrier free along the river; ascends bluff to creek. TO GO: Hwy 101 to FS#25, 5.5 miles. WILDERNESS PERMIT REQUIRED FOR CAMPING
Miss
t so n Wa
Lena Creek Campground
HAMMA HAMMA
issio n
Boulder Crk
p le Ma
Wh it
Mt Skokomish
Le Crke
Mt Stone
Henderson
n
LOWER LENA LAKE TRAIL Well maintained popular trail leads to a small lake MODERATE TO DIFFICULT 3 mile climb,switchbacks TO GO: Hwy 101 at Hamma Hamma Recreation Area
STAIRCASE | OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK
HIKING & BACKCOUNTRY CAMPING
Clamber up the rugged trails, tiptoe through the quiet old growth forest, or careen through the pristine meadows of Olympic National Forest & National Park. Shoulder your pack and experience the sights and sounds of the vast wilderness home to some of the most beautiful flora & fauna in the world. Ablaze with wildflowers in the spring, cool hidden swimming holes in the summer, a chance to see spawning salmon in the fall, and snow capped peaks in the winter, there is never an inopportune time to hike Hood Canal.
ITINERARY 3: HOODSPORT & NORTH HOOD CANAL
DIVE DEEPER
Alice’s Little Beach House | 112 N Allie Ahl Ln, Lilliwaup | (360) 877-9226 | aliceslittlebeachhouse.com
N
The Glen Motel (Glen Ayr) | 25381 N Hwy 101, Hoodsport | (360) 877-9522 | glenayr.com
N
Mike’s Beach Resort | 38470 N Hwy 101, Lilliwaup | (360) 877-5324 | mikesbeachresort.com
Watercraft
Water view
RV Sites
Kitchen
Beach
Pool/Spa
CUSHMAN, ELDON, HOODSPORT, POTLATCH & LILLIWAUP
Pets OK
WEST HOOD CANAL LODGING
TV/Cable
Giant octopus, wolf eels and swarms of ancient rock cod add to the wonder of this special place. AIR, GEAR & SCUBA LESSONS, RENTALS & CHARTERS available.
Wi/Fi
CANAL SPIRIT
HOODSPORT WINERY, STOTTLE WINERY, and HARDWARE DISTILLERY offer tastings amongst shopping, dining and the famous Olympic Mountain Ice Cream.
FORAGE DINNER
Come prepared with buckets and boots. Check regs at wdfw.wa.gov before digging – or stop by HAMA HAMA STORE & OYSTER SALOON for freshly prepared seafood.
Dining: Onsite (O) Nearby (N)
HUG THE CURVES
As Hwy 101 navigates the bays of HOOD CANAL, imagine relaxing dockside of a beachside cabin, watching the seals roll off the rocks.
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The Moose House at Lake Cushman | Lake Cushman | themoosehouse.com
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Pali-Kai Canal House | 327000 N Hwy 101, Lilliwaup | (360) 426-2224
N
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Sunrise Motel & Dive Resort | 24520 N Hwy 101, Hoodsport | (360) 877-5301
N
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Waterfront at Potlatch | 21660 N Hwy 101, Potlatch | (360) 877-9422 | thewaterfrontatpotlatch.com
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Finch Creek Cabin | Finch Creek, Hoodsport | (206)880-0643 | hoodcanalgetaways.com
N
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Yellow House | 23891 N Hwy 101, Hoodsport | (360) 877-6818 | hoodsportndive.com
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FJORD
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Watrview
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Kitchen
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RV Sites
Pool Beach
TV/Cable
Pets OK
Allyn House Inn | 18350 State Route 3, Allyn | 535-2198 | allynhouseinn.com
Wi/Fi
Allyn
Dining: Onsite (O) Nearby (N)
ALLYN/ BELFAIR/UNION LODGING
• • •
Belfair & Tahuya Belfair Motel | 23322 NE State Route 3, Belfair | 275-4485 | belfairmotel.net
N • • •
Gladwin Beach House | 391 Gladwin Beach Rd, Belfair | (360) 337-2960 | explorehoodcanal.com
N • •
Sisters Point Waterfront Cabin | 12121 NE North Shore Rd, Belfair | (360) 275-6816
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Summertide Resort | 15781 NE Northshore Road Tahuya | (360) 275-9313 | summertideresort.com
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Alderbrook Resort & Spa | 10 E Alderbrook Drive, Union | (360) 898-2200 | alderbrookresort.com
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Blue Heron Resort Condos | 6520 E SR106, Union | (360) 614-3191 | attheblue.com
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Cottages at Hood Canalé | 6871 E SR 106, Union | (360) 710-7452| booking.hoodcanale.com
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Hood Canal Events Accommodations | curated short term rentals | hoodcanalevents.com
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Hood Canal Resort Properties | 8761 E SR 106, Union | (360) 842-9779 | hoodcanalresort.com
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Robin Hood Village Resort | 6780 E State Route 106, Union | 898-2163 | robinhoodvillageresort.com
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Union
ITINERARY 4: ALLYN/GRAPEVIEW LOOP A CUT ABOVE
The largest chainsaw carving outlet, BEAR IN A is a great place to explore this unique art. They also teach chainsaw carving.
WATERFRONT WANDERINGS
GRAPE VIEWS
Waterfront Grapeview is the location of first winery and vineyards of the Pacific Northwest.
BEACH WALK
There are plenty of great public beaches to explore and launch The area features quaint shops, a variety of points for your kayaks. restaurants, and beach parks. FJORD
56
ALLYN
ITINERARY 5: BELFAIR AREA TAKE A WALK ON BOARDWALK
Hood Canal’s wild 139 acre THELER WETLANDS hosts two miles of trails. 1,700+ feet of floating boardwalk, native plants, and interpretive kiosks to experience wetland wildlife. olympicbirdtrail.org
SALMON STRONG
THE SALMON CENTER provides education and recreation through a series of collaborative activities at their certified organic farm. They also host seasonal events. pnwsalmoncenter.org
VISITOR INFORMATION & RESOURCES HOODSPORT VISITOR CENTER 150 N Lake Cushman Rd, Hoodsport, WA (360) 877-2021 | (800) 576-2021
BELFAIR VISITOR CENTER 30 NE Romance Hill Rd, Belfair, WA (360) 275-4267 | northmasonchamber.com
UNION VISITOR INFORMATION
Located at Hunter Farms, E 1921 SR 106, Union, WA
SHELTON CHAMBER VISITOR CENTER
FJORD WELCOME CENTER
215 W. Railroad Ave, Shelton, WA | (360) 426-2021 Open 8 AM - 5 PM | Monday through Friday
24341 N US Hwy 101, Hoodsport, WA FREE Concierge Service: maps, lodging, dining & hikes information (360) 877-2102
MASON COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY MUSEUM
From ferries in Seattle to trailheads in Hood Canal, Mason Transit offers free rides – masontransit.org
427 W. Railroad Ave, Shelton, WA 11 AM - 4 PM | Tuesday through Saturday
57
RIDE FREE IN MASON COUNTY OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK nps.gov
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FJORD
25 SCENIC WATERFALLS HoodSCENIC Canal to the Pacific Coast & points between 25 WATERFALLS
ReceivingCanal hundreds of inches of rain annually, Coast the Hoh, Quinault and Queets Rainforests are located on Hood to the Pacific & points between the coastal foothills of the Olympics. With 21 feet of snow or rain at its peaks, it’s no wonder there is a myriad of waterfalls lacing the area. Explore this sampling curated by celebrated guidebook author and avid hiker, Craig Romano. Some are small, secret, and unique, others are popular but magnificent. All are worth the journey!
Olympia & Hood Canal
9. Dosewallips Falls (9.0 MILE ROUND-TRIP – MODERATE)
Brinnon | US 101 Milepost 306, Dosewallips Rd 9.7 miles to trail Olympic National Park, no pass, kid-friendly, dog-prohibited Spectacular 100’ waterfall previously had vehicle access but now to reach waterfall you must hike or mountain bike closed road..
1. Tumwater Falls Loop (1 MILE – EASY)
Olympia | Exit #103 off of I-5 S to Deschutes Way Tumwater Falls Park, no pass required, kid/dog friendly Iconic landmark, multi-tiered showy falls separated by gorge.
2. Kennedy Creek Falls (6.8 MILE RT – MODERATE)
Kamiliche | US 101 N, left at Old Olympic , mile to gate Forestry & WA DNR, no pass required, kid/dog friendly Descend to a grove of big trees — and the falls. Here Kennedy Creek tumbles over basalt flow.
3. Vincent Creek Falls (ROAD ACCESS – EASY)
Skokomish Valley Rd; 5.6 miles to FR 23; 2.3 miles to FR 2340 Olympic National Forest, no pass, caution: low guardrail Arched truss 685’ High Steel Bridge (1929) spans 375’ and is the 14th highest bridge in USA. Falls drop 250’ over canyon.
4. Big Creek Cascades Loop (4.2 MILE – MODERATE)
10. Fallsview Falls (0.2 MILE ROUND-TRIP – EASY)
Quilcene | US 101 at Falls View Campground. Trail in picnic area Olympic National Forest, pass required, kid/dog friendly, ADA Trail is ADA accessible to a falls cascading 100’. By late summer it trickles—but during the rainy season the falls put on a little show.
Lake Crescent & Elwha River 11. Striped Peak Falls (2.2 MILE RT– MODERATE)
Salt Creek County Park | SR 112 , 7.2 miles, R. @ Camp Hayden Rd Clallam County Parks and WA DNR, no pass, dog-friendly Small but location in remote cliff-enclosed sea cove is stunning.
12. Madison Creek Falls (0.2 MILE ROUND-TRIP – EASY)
Elwha River Valley | Olympic Hot Springs Rd 2.1 miles Olympic National Park, no pass, kid-friendly, ADA, dog-friendly Short walk to mossy maple and cedar lined grotto. This path is one of the few within the national park that is open to leashed dogs.
Lake Cushman / Hoodsport | SR 119 for 9.3 miles to trail head Olympic National Forest, pass required, kid/dog-friendly Loop utilizes old logging roads, new trails and series of bridges constructed by volunteers that continue to improve this loop.
5. Staircase Rapids Loop (2 MILE – EASY)
13. Wolf Creek Falls (0.8 MILE ROUND-TRIP –MODERATE)
Elwha River Valley | US 10, milepost 240, Olympic Hot Springs Rd, 4.0 miles, left onto dirt Whiskey Bend Rd, 4.2 miles to trail head Olympic National Park, pass required, dogs prohibited After a steep descent to river walk along the gravel bank of Wolf Creek to a fanning 25’ falls. Step back to see another tier above it.
Lake Cushman/Hoodsport | SR 119; FR 24 for 14.7 miles Olympic National Park, pass required, kid-friendly, no pets Follow river to suspension bridge, cross river and complete loop on North Fork Skokomish River back to Ranger Station.
6. Hamma Hamma Falls (ROAD ACCESS – EASY)
Lilliwaup | FR 25 for 13.3 miles Olympic National Forest, pass required, kid-friendly Bridge spans two-tiered falls (80’). Overhead view decent year round. On drive back, enjoy views of secondary falls along river.
7. Murhut Falls (1.6 MILES ROUND-TRIP – EASY)
Duckabush River Valley | FR 2510 6.3 miles, FR 2530, 1.3 miles Olympic National Forest, no pass required, kid/dog-friendly Well-built trail to 130’ two-tiered waterfall. Pacific rhododendrons line the trail in May and June.
14. Goblins Gate (3.6 MILES ROUND-TRIP – MODERATE)
Elwha River Valley | milepost 240, Olympic Hot Springs Rd, 4 miles onto dirt Whiskey Bend Rd, 4.5 miles to trail head ONP, pass required, kid friendly, dogs prohibited Hike to a Elwha River gorge to a series of rapids.
15. Boulder Creek Falls (8.4 MILES ROUND-TRIP – MODERATE)
Elwha Valley | Milepost 240, Olympic Hot Springs Rd, 10 miles Olympic National Park, pass required, dogs prohibited A series of cascades in valley with luxuriant old-growth forest. The hike is an all-day event but is remoter than nearby popular sites.
8. Rocky Brook Falls (QUARTER MILE – EASY)
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Brinnon | Milepost 306 on US 101, Dosewallips Road 3 miles Private, no pass, kid/dog-friendly - check for closures Classic horsetail waterfall crashes more than 200’ from hanging valley. Summer, the cascade pool is a popular swimming hole.
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Thank you. 58 p a c i f i c c o a s t s c e n i c
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Waterfall project made possible with Mason County Lodging Tax funding. explorehoodcanal.com
®2020 | Information and images courtesy of Craig Romano. Craig has written more than 20 guidebooks including Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd Edition.
www.waterfalltrail.org 16. Marymere Falls (1.8 MILES ROUND-TRIP – EASY)
Lake Crescent | milepost 228, right at Lake Crescent Lodge Olympic National Park, no pass, kid-friendly, dogs prohibited A popular waterfall on the Olympic Peninsula, if it was harder to reach, this 90’ horsetail cascade would still be well-visited.
17. Sol Duc Falls (1.6 MILES ROUND-TRIP – EASY)
Sol Duc River Valley | Sol Duc Hot Springs Road, 14 miles to trail Olympic National Park, pass required, kid-friendly, no dogs ONP’s most photographed waterfall. The falls tumble about 40’ into a tight slot and abruptly flow at a right angle into the gorge.
Pacific Coast & Quinault
18.Strawberry Bay Falls (3.6 MILES ROUND-TRIP – EASY
Olympic Coast | SR 110 to Quillayute Prairie, 3.8 miles to trail Olympic National Park, no pass, kid-friendly, dogs prohibited Hike to Third Beach to witness this waterfall tumbling more than 100’ from a towering headland into the surf.
For full descriptions on all these waterfalls including maps, updates and images, visit: WATERFALLTRAIL.ORG Wynoochee River Valley
23. Spoon Creek Falls (6 MILE ROUND-TRIP – MODERATE)
Wynoochee Valley | FR 22 34 miles, FR 23 2.5 mile to trail Olympic National Forest, no pass, kid-friendly, dog friendly 93’ falls plunge into a box canyon. Trail goes through old-growth forest to a viewpoint of falls dropping into the gorge.
24. Maidenhair Falls (1 MILE ROUND-TRIP – EASY)
Wynoochee Valley | FR 22 34 miles, FR 2312 5.8 miles, FR 2385 Olympic National Forest, no pass, kid-friendly, dog friendly Overlooked by many due to its close proximity to Wynoochee Falls, this is a pleasant surprise in a quiet corner of the Olympics.
25. Porter Falls (1.6 MILE ROUND-TRIP – EASY)
Porter Creek Rd, 2.9 miles B-0150 Rd, .5 mile, B-Line 0.9 mile
19. Mineral Creek Falls (5.0 MILES ROUND-TRIP – EASY)
Capitol State Forest, Discover Pass required, kid/dog friendly
Hoh Rainforest | Upper Hoh Rd from US 101, 18 miles to trail Olympic National Park, pass required, kid-friendly, no dogs Tucked within towering Sitka spruces, firs, and maples in the rain forest this pleasant hike follows along the glacier-fed Hoh River.
20. Cascade Falls Loop ( .7 MILES LOOP – EASY)
Quinault Rainforest | South Shore Rd 2.3 miles to trail Olympic National Forest, no pass, kid / dog friendly Not the tallest, nor most popular of the waterfalls within the Quinault Rainforest, Cascade Falls is perhaps the prettiest.
21. Merriman Falls (ROADSIDE—MINIMAL WALKING)
Quinault Rainforest | South Shore Rd from US 101, 6.7 miles Olympic National Forest, no pass, kid-friendly, dog friendly The falls plummet 40 feet over a mossy and ferny ledge into a mossy tangle of boulders and saturated logs.
22. Enchanted Valley of 10,000 Waterfalls
(26 MILES ROUND-TRIP – MODERATE BACKPACKING TRIP) Quinault Rainforest | South Shore Rd from US 101, 13 miles to Quinault River Bridge,right on Graves Creek Rd 6.2 miles ONP Wilderness Permits required, kid-friendly, no dog Behold its stunning backdrop of sheer cliffs 3,000 feet high streaked with waterfalls and hanging snow and ice.
Full descriptions: waterfalltrail.org
Located at the confluence of the South and West Forks of Porter Creek. Here one branch cuts through a cleft while the other plunges over a ledge into a big punchbowl.
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Jeff Slakey | Story
After the Fire, the Forest Begins Again. A year after the Bear Gulch Fire swept through the forests above Lake Cushman, a walk into Staircase in the Olympic National Park reveals something unexpected among the blackened trees: life. Lots of it. I made the trek up to Staircase at the end of August. It had been on my list all summer, but somehow summer has a way of filling itself, and the trip kept getting pushed to another day. About halfway up Lake Cushman Road, I realized I had brought my Washington State Discover Pass. Normally, that would get me into plenty of wild places, but this isn’t just any park. This is Olympic National Park. So I turned around at Lake Cushman Realty and headed back toward Hoodsport. It turned out to be a worthwhile detour. At the Hoodsport Visitor Information Center, longtime volunteer Nancy Johnson was behind the desk. We talked about the park, the summer and the return of visitors to Staircase following the Bear Gulch Fire. Nancy also teasingly reminded me to listen to KMAS— she handed me the park pass and I headed back up the mountain. FJORD PHOTO: CHARLOTTE HANSEN
I had forgotten what a beautiful drive it is. Lake Cushman appeared through the trees, impossibly blue in the late-summer sunshine. Boats dotted the water. Families lingered along the shoreline, squeezing a little more out of August. Near the north end of the lake, I pulled over for a moment simply to look. A year earlier, this had been a very different place. On July 6, 2025, a human-caused fire ignited the steep, rocky southwestern slope of Mount Rose above Lake Cushman. It would become known as the Bear Gulch Fire. What began in Olympic National Forest grew through a hot, dry summer. By late July, the fire had moved toward Olympic National Park, crossed the North Fork Skokomish River and entered wilderness areas. Hot, dry weather and easterly winds fueled periods of rapid wildfire growth in August and again in September. 60
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By the time it was declared fully contained on November 12, the Bear Gulch Fire had become the largest wildland fire on the Olympic Peninsula since 1951. For those of us who live around Hood Canal, watching it unfold was painful. As media we were offered daily updates from the fire service and each report was more grim as the weeks ensued. Staircase isn't simply another entrance to a national park. It is our backyard swimming hole, Sunday hike, picnic spot and the place we take visiting relatives when we want to casually remind them how lucky we are to live here. Then, for nearly a year, it was closed. On July 8, 2026, Staircase welcomed visitors back. The road, campground, ranger station, developed facilities and Staircase Rapids Loop Trail reopened, although wilderness trails farther into the burned area remain closed while crews continue assessing hazards and repairing damaged infrastructure. It isn't the Staircase we remember. But perhaps that's the point. Signs of the fire appear immediately. Some are literal signs—warnings marking closed or burned areas and reminding visitors that hazards remain. Others are written across the landscape. Along the Rapids Trail, trunks stand blackened against the sky. Fallen trees lie where they came down. In places, the forest floor is startlingly open where dense vegetation once crowded the trail. The scale of it is sobering. And then you notice something else. Green. A fern unfurling beside a burned stump. Flowers blooming in newly opened sunlight. Birds moving through branches overhead. FJORD
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Not a before and after – the sides of the bridge crossing the North Fork Skokomish River are in stark contrast as the fire ravaged one side and ignored the other.
And perhaps most fascinating are the places the fire simply missed. Fire does not move through a forest like a paint roller. It skips, turns and changes intensity with wind, moisture, slope and fuel. One patch can be scorched while another nearby remains green. The result is a mosaic—black, brown and every imaginable shade of green. It looks chaotic to us. To a forest, it is an ancient pattern. We tend to think of the Olympic Peninsula as a place defined by water: mossdraped trees, swollen rivers, dripping ferns and forests so green they almost glow. But fire has been part of this landscape for thousands of years. Scientists find its history in charcoal, tree rings, fire scars and the ages of forest stands. Evidence suggests enormous portions of the north, east and south Olympic Peninsula burned during major fire episodes roughly 300 to 500 years ago, with another cycle affecting many eastern watersheds about 250 years ago.
Some of the forests we now consider timeless wilderness grew from those fires. Walk through parts of the Elwha and Morse Creek drainages, for example, and relatively young stands of Douglas-fir reveal the outlines of burns that occurred generations ago. The Olympics have always lived on a rhythm far longer than our own. On the wetter western side of the peninsula, centuries may pass between major fires. On the drier eastern and southern slopes, fire has historically returned more frequently. Douglas-fir, with its thick protective bark, is particularly well suited to this relationship.
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Fire opens the canopy and SunLight reaches into places that may have been shaded for decades.
Nutrients locked inside vegetation return to the soil. Shrubs, grasses and wildSaturdays 10am - 3pm flowers move into newly Downtown Shelton Cota Street opened spaces. Eventually Rain or Shine May - October young trees follow. What sheltonfarmersmarket.org looks at first like an ending is also succession. 63
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Not every fire is beneficial, of course. Human-caused wildfires are preventable, and the Bear Gulch Fire brought real costs—to wildlife habitat, recreation, park infrastructure, firefighting resources and the people and businesses connected to this corner of the peninsula. We should learn from it. But we can also recognize that the forest knows what to do next. Standing there among the burned trees, I kept thinking about a line from one of my favorite movies, Jurassic Park. Dr. Ian Malcolm, played by Jeff Goldblum, famously observes: “Life finds a way.” It certainly has at Staircase. The more time I spent looking, the less the landscape seemed dead. It was busy. Birds called from the trees. Insects moved among flowers. New foliage crowded around old trunks. Plants took advantage of patches of sunlight that hadn't touched the forest floor in years.
PHOTO: JEFF SLAKEY
Even the surviving trees seemed more remarkable because of what surrounded them. A burned landscape makes you pay attention and look at the forest not as a finished picture, but as a process. It would be easy to mourn what Staircase looked like before the Bear Gulch Fire. And there is nothing wrong with doing that. But forests aren't museums. They don't stay frozen in the version we first fell in love with. They flood. Trees fall. Rivers change course. Windstorms open the canopy. Fire arrives. And the forest responds. Thanks to the extraordinary work of firefighters, park employees, road crews and many partner agencies, visitors can once again drive to Staircase, stop at the ranger station, cross the bridge over that astonishingly clear North Fork Skokomish River and walk beneath the towering trees.
PHOTO: CHARLOTTE HANSEN FJORD
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Some of those trees are green. Some are black. Some are gone altogether. And beneath them, the next forest has already begun. Perhaps that is the reason to visit Staircase now. Not despite the fire. Because this is a rare opportunity to watch one of the oldest stories in the Pacific Northwest unfold in real time. Come back next summer and it will be different. Come back in five years and shrubs and young trees will have changed the view again. Bring your grandchildren decades from now and the forest they walk through may bear little resemblance to the one we see today. The blackened giants will eventually fall. New trees will rise among them. The scars will soften beneath moss, fern and salal. And somewhere beneath all that green, charcoal will remain in the soil—the quiet signature of the Bear Gulch Fire of 2025. A reminder that a forest is never really finished. It is always becoming.
IF YOU GO:
Olympic National Park — Staircase entrance Tucked at the northern end of Lake Cushman, Staircase is the southeastern gateway to Olympic National Park and one of the easiest places from Hood Canal to step directly into old-growth forest, rushing river water and the recovering landscape of the 2025 Bear Gulch Fire. Getting There: From Hoodsport, follow North Lake Cushman Road toward Lake Cushman, continuing onto Forest Service Road 24. The route to Staircase is approximately 16 miles from Highway 101 and includes both paved and gravel sections. The drive itself is worth taking slowly, with beautiful views of Lake Cushman along the way. What’s Open: As of fall 2026, the Staircase developed area is open, including the ranger station, campground, restrooms and the Staircase Rapids Loop Trail. Take the Rapids Loop: The roughly 2.1-mile Staircase Rapids Loop is currently the best way to explore the area and see both the impacts of the fire and the remarkable return of the forest. Look for blackened trunks, newly opened patches of sunlight, fresh foliage and pockets of forest that escaped the flames altogether. Know Before You Hike: Many backcountry trails beyond the developed Staircase area remain closed while crews assess fire-damaged trees, bridges, privies and other wilderness infrastructure. Closures currently include the North Fork Skokomish River Trail beyond Staircase, Wagonwheel Lake, Flapjack Lakes, Four Stream, Six Ridge and several connecting routes. Check current conditions before heading out. Park Pass: A Washington Discover Pass does not cover Olympic National Park. The current entrance fee is $30 per private vehicle for seven consecutive days. An Olympic National Park annual pass is $55, and America the Beautiful interagency passes are also accepted. The park is cashless, so plan accordingly. Camping: Staircase Campground has reopened and sits among the trees near the North Fork Skokomish River. Reservations are required through September 29, 2026, during the peak season; availability can be checked through Recreation.gov. Facilities: Drinking water and flush toilets are available during the summer season. Services become more limited as the season changes, so fall visitors should arrive prepared with water, food, layers and rain gear. A Few Tips: Give yourself time for the drive—the lake views invite stops. Wear sturdy shoes around burned areas and stay on open trails. Never enter signed closure areas or approach unstable burned trees. And bring a camera: this is one of those rare moments when visitors can see a Pacific Northwest forest changing almost week by week. Check Before You Go: Conditions can change with weather, road work and continuing fire-recovery efforts. Olympic National Park’s recorded road and weather line is 360-565-3131; general visitor information is 360-565-3130. Current alerts, road conditions and trail closures are available at nps.gov/olym.
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A Modern Apothecary Takes Root in Shelton The Apothecary of Shelton, opened by owner Desiree Santos at is a new addition to downtown Shelton's growing collection of small, independent shops. Inside, visitors will find a curated selection of herbal and natural wellness products, loose teas and bulk herbs, books, self-care products and natural goods for the home. Born and raised in the Pacific Northwest before spending part of her teenage years overseas, Santos eventually returned to Washington after college. She spent several years in Seattle managing an independent wellness business, gaining experience that would eventually help shape the shop she has today. The shop carries loose herbs and teas alongside a broader collection of health, wellness and home products. Its current offerings range from herbal first-aid products and books about medicinal gardening to body-care products, seeds and household goods. Rather than approaching wellness as a one-size-fits-all proposition, Santos emphasizes education and helping customers make informed choices for themselves. That makes the store equally approachable for someone who has been using herbs for years and the person who walks through the door wondering what an apothecary is.
her experience in the wellness business have come together in a storefront that feels rooted in the community she ultimately chose. For Santos, community connection is an important part of wellness itself. As she told the Mason County Economic Development Council in a recent interview, “A community thrives if everyone's supported.” So next time you're wandering downtown Shelton, turn onto Cota Street and look for the jars. You may go in for tea, an herb or something you didn't know you needed.
The Apothecary also arrives at an interesting time for Cota St. Downtown Shelton's side streets have increasingly become places worth wandering rather than simply shortcuts between destinations. Independent shops, flowers, art, coffee, antiques, food and other small businesses have created little pockets of discovery along Cota St especially. An apothecary feels surprisingly at home among them. It's also very much a reflection of its owner. Santos' years of travel, her studies in herbalism and FJORD
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IF YOU GO:
The Apothecary of Shelton 620 W. Cota Street, Shelton, WA 98584 360-888-3007 What you'll find: Herbal and natural wellness products, loose teas and bulk herbs, books, self-care items, gifts and natural products for the home. The Apothecary is a retail wellness shop rather than a conventional pharmacy. Visitors are encouraged to browse, learn and ask questions. Because hours can change, check the shop's website or social media before making a special trip. apothecaryofshelton.com
New Owners Keep Vance Creek Railriders Rolling Into Fall Mauri and Anita de Lint are the new owners of the popular pedal-powered attraction west of Shelton, purchasing the business from longtime friends Doug and Cynthia Newman. The de Lints are keeping the tradition alive—and giving visitors even more opportunities to ride, with Vance Creek Railriders open seven days a week through October. For the couple, the move feels a little like keeping the business in the family. Mauri, a farmer from northeastern Oregon, and Anita, an ER nurse, knew Doug and Cynthia through Ski Patrol. Mauri had also heard Doug and RailRider founder Kim Metlen share stories about the fun of running a RailRider business. Inspired, Mauri and Anita began searching the Northwest—and even a couple of Hawaiian islands—for railroad tracks where they might create an operation of their own. Then Doug and Cynthia decided it was time to retire and spend more time with their grandchildren.
Doug hoped to “keep it in the family,” Mauri recalls, referring to their shared connections as Ski Patrollers, farmers and friends. For Mauri and Anita, the opportunity was hard to resist.
So if riding the rails has been sitting on your summer list, you haven't missed your chance. With new owners and seven-day-a-week operation through October, fall may be one of the best times to climb aboard.
“We are very excited to take over and keep the tradition going,” Mauri says.
IF YOU GO
Vance Creek Railriders 421 W. Hanks Lake Road, Shelton Tours currently start at $42; check current pricing when booking. Bring water, layers and rain gear—the RailRiders operate in the rain. Reservations: vcrailriders.com
Fall is a particularly beautiful time to discover Vance Creek Railriders. The approximately two-hour, 13-mile round trip follows a historic Simpson Logging Company rail line through fir, cedar and maple forest and alongside Goldsborough Creek.
More than a beautiful place to visit. A great place to do business. SCAN HERE TO VISIT OUR WEBSITE!
MasonEDC connects businesses and entrepreneurs with the resources, relationships and opportunities they need to start, grow and succeed right here in Mason County. Your next opportunity might be closer than you think. MasonEDC.org | 360.426.2276 | P.O. Box 472, Shelton WA
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Food & drink foster community The rain came hard and sudden over Hoodsport in early September, turning the outdoor tasting at the Fjord Oyster Bank into something more intimate than anyone had planned. Guests crowded under cover, sharing tables to stay dry while Stephen Lesefko, winemaker and co-founder of Castle & Crown Cellars, poured his small-batch wines alongside geoduck sashimi and raw oysters. Josh Meeks played music that cut through the downpour, and what might have been a washed-out afternoon became a lively, communal gathering. Strangers leaned in closer, glasses clinked, and the storm seemed to fold into the evening’s warmth.
Stephen from Castle & Crown Cellars pours alongside Zach & Olivia serving oysters from Fjord Oyster Bank and Hama Hama and geoduck sashimi from Seattle Shellfish. Funds raised were donated to support the Marine Touch tanks (MESS) at OysterFest.
That night captured something essential about both the winery and the restaurant. Castle & Crown and the Fjord Oyster Bank share a quiet philosophy: natural processes, minimal interference, and nothing added that does not belong. Stephen’s wines are made with native yeasts, extended skin contact when it serves the fruit, and no unnecessary additives or preservatives— letting the grapes and their vineyards speak clearly. At the Fjord Oyster Bank, the same respect for purity guides the kitchen: shellfish harvested cleanly, prepared simply so the true flavor of the water comes through, without shortcuts or preservatives that would
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mask the merroir. The pairing felt inevitable because both places trust the ingredient itself. Castle & Crown began in 2018 with a name that holds a private joke and a promise. Stephen’s first name carries the Greek root for “crown”; Kelsey von der Burg’s German surname means “from the castle.” Together they built a smallbatch winery after years of study and work across New Zealand’s Waiheke Island, Australia’s historic cellars, and Germany’s Rheingau. Stephen’s time as winemaker at Seattle’s Kerloo Cellars refined an approach of minimal intervention—whole-cluster fermentations
when appropriate, neutral oak, and the conviction that the vineyard should tell its own story. In 2023 the couple settled in Port Townsend, drawn by the town’s scale and sense of community. The following summer they opened their tasting room at 926 Water Street in the former Mad Hatter & Co. storefront, right in the heart of the historic downtown. The room is modest and welcoming with a rotating selection of their limited releases, reflec the easy pace of a place where people linger. Rieslings with lime zest and jasmine, a carbonic Pinot Noir Rosé, bright with wild strawberry, Pinot Noirs and Cabernet Francs that carry freshness and spice— all built with the high natural acidity that makes them natural partners for seafood. Those same bottles now appear on the list at the Fjord Oyster Bank in Hoodsport, extending the conversation between vineyard and tidal flats.
Save the date!
SHELTON, WA OLYMPIC PENINSULA
OCTOBER 3-4 2026
OYSTERFUNK OCTOBER 2, 6 PM | $5/ 21+ LEARN MORE AT OYSTERFEST.ORG
What remains most striking is the sense of community that runs through both places. On that rainy September afternoon, when the weather forced everyone closer together, the shared tables and music created the kind of unforced connection. Castle & Crown offers wines made with care, whether poured in a tasting room on Water Street or beside the carefully harvested oysters served at the Fjord Oyster Bank – all inviting people to slow down, stay a while, and taste the place itself—regardless of the skies above.
If you Go:
Castle & Crown Cellars Tasting Room 926 Water St, Port Townsend Open Thursday through Sunday castleandcrowncellars.com Fjord Oyster Bank Café 24341 US-101, Hoodsport Open weekends with indoor and outdoor seating (covered & heaters). (360) 877-2102
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Bluegrass, Blue Skies & a New Generation of Pickers Bluegrass From the Forest celebrates a successful 21st season
PHOTO: SHAWNA WHELAN
There are summer weekends when everything seems to fall into place—the weather cooperates, the campground fills, the music carries across the field and, somewhere beneath the firs, another jam session starts before the last one has quite finished. That was the feeling at Bluegrass From the Forest 2026, held last July at South Mason Youth Soccer Park in Shelton. The three-day festival welcomed a strong crowd for a weekend of national and regional bluegrass, workshops, dancing, camping and plenty of informal picking. The good weather made the festival’s outdoor setting especially inviting, with lawn chairs scattered across the grass and musicians seemingly never far from an instrument case. Produced entirely by volunteers, Bluegrass From the Forest is a fundraiser for the philanthropic work of Kristmas Town Kiwanis. The festival has now spent six years at the South Mason Youth Soccer Park, where there is room not only for the main performances, but also workshops, vendors, camping and the spontaneous gatherings that are such an important part of bluegrass culture.
This year’s lineup reached well beyond the Northwest. Florida's Remedy Tree brought a contemporary Americana sound firmly rooted in bluegrass, oldtime and folk traditions. The group signed with Mountain Fever Records in 2024 and has carried its music well beyond its home state, including international festival appearances. From North Carolina came Unspoken Tradition, a group known for pairing traditional bluegrass foundations with an original, hard-driving sound. The band's songs have found success on the Bluegrass Today charts, including the No. 1 single “California.” Northwest musicians were represented with Union City Council Band, Hemlock Revival, Oregon's Porch Pickin’, and host band Runaway Train joining the weekend lineup. Bar-K Buckaroos changed the pace Saturday night, providing music for the country dance.
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PHOTOS: SHAWNA WHELAN
Visitors could move from the main stage to musician workshops, join Marv's Slow Jam, try their luck in the returning Band Scramble, listen to an open mic or investigate the finer points of an instrument during the festival's Sunday Mandolin Tasting. When the scheduled music stopped, instruments came out around the campground— and the picking continued. The kids' program was especially well attended this year, filling Saturday morning with young fiddlers, guitar players, banjo pickers, mandolin players and budding musicians learning how to make music together. The program divides young musicians into groups based on experience and gives them the opportunity to work closely with accomplished musicians. Rather than simply watching professionals perform, the kids spend the morning learning, rehearsing and discovering how the pieces of a bluegrass band fit together. Then comes the big moment: Saturday evening, they take the main stage themselves. It's hard to imagine a better measure of a music festival's health. A full audience is great. A busy campground is good. But seeing children carrying instrument cases across the grass may be the surest sign that Bluegrass From the Forest is doing something right.
Bluegrass, after all, has always been music passed from one person to another—from experienced fingers to inexperienced ones, from one generation to the next. Festivals like this keep that exchange alive. Part of the charm of Bluegrass From the Forest is what happens between the scheduled performances. It's hearing a banjo somewhere across the campground and following the sound. It's a beginning musician finding the courage to join the Slow Jam. It's the Band Scramble throwing musicians together and asking them to become a band almost on the spot. And, don't forget the free midnight hot dogs, served by the Boy Scouts after Saturday night's country dance while campground jams continue into the night. Those traditions have helped turn what began as a local bluegrass gathering into a fixture on Shelton's summer calendar.
Looking for the perfect gift for a loved one? Mason County Sportsman’s Association's classes in their indoor range in Shelton are a great way to learn a new skill and increase firearm safety.
Questions? Message phone:
(360) 427-1102
masoncountysa.org
The stages may be quiet again and the campers long since packed away, but somewhere there is probably a young musician who came home from Bluegrass From the Forest knowing a few more chords—and already thinking about next summer. Save the date for 2027, July 9-11 and watch for lineup to be announced, bluegrassfromtheforest.com. Did you know our local KMAS signal reaches as far as Tacoma, Aberdeen, Bremerton, and Centralia? As the “Voice of Mason County,” KMAS also reaches your friends & neighbors from Allyn, Olympia, and Shelton to Belfair & Hoodsport.
Radio is available 24/7 and is accessible to everyone.
tracingthefjord.com PHOTO: SHAWNA WHELAN
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A New Sunrise on Hood Canal A longtime Hoodsport waterfront retreat is being rebuilt for a new generation—with handcrafted touches, better comforts and the same remarkable view. There are some places along Hood Canal that seem to belong exactly where they are. Sunrise Resort is one of them. For more than 70 years, travelers have pulled off Highway 101 here to wake to saltwater views, launch into a day of exploring the Olympic Peninsula or dive beneath the surface of the Canal. Now owners Diana and Shawn Benson are giving this Hoodsport motel and dive resort a new beginning. The transformation has been happening in phases, and guests have already had a glimpse of what is to come. Nine newly constructed waterfront rooms are open, with the next phase of rooms nearing completion. When the project is finished, Sunrise will offer 21 new rooms, along with a new two-bedroom cottage and the existing two-bedroom Water’s Edge house. The rooms are designed around what has been Sunrise's greatest luxury: Hood Canal itself. Private balconies and patios put guests remarkably close to the water, while air conditioning, improved soundproofing
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and accessible routes to both levels add modern comfort. Rooms include sitting areas positioned to take advantage of the waterfront views. Plans include a dedicated diver services center with a warm indoor gear-up area along with a rinse station, drying room, lockers and air fills. Above water, guests can explore the canal by kayak, with rentals available at the resort. A mooring buoy is available for visiting watercraft, and a new pier, gangway and dock with a kayak launch are planned for 2027. A hot tub is now installed, the property is pet-friendly and complimentary Wi-Fi is available. And as the final rooms open, the lobby comes back to life and a new dock reaches toward Hood Canal in 2027, this longtime Hoodsport landmark isn't simply getting a renovation. It's getting ready for its next 70 years.
PUD 3 CEO Awarded for Community Service
Soup's On in Union
Mason PUD 3 CEO Annette Creekpaum was awarded the Paul J. Raver Community Service Award May, recognizing her service not only to the local community, but also to the broader public power community.
Bring your best pot—or simply bring your appetite—to the Dalby Waterwheel Annual Soup Cook-Off, held in partnership with the Union Fire Department. Seasoned chefs, kitchen novices and enthusiastic tasters are invited to gather Tuesday, October 6, 6–7:30 PM at the Union Fire Hall for an evening of homemade soup, friendly competition and community spirit. Prizes will be awarded for first, second and third place, plus there will be fun raffles and plenty of chances to visit with friends and neighbors. Come hungry, taste generously and help celebrate one of fall’s most comforting foods. The Cook-Off is hosted by the Hood Canal Improvement Club.
The award was announced at the Northwest Public Power Association’s annual conference in Spokane. Over her more than 25 years in public service, including 13 years at PUD 3’s CEO, Creekpaum has guided PUD 3 through major advances from large electrical projects and broadband expansion to community initiatives and workforce development. Creekpaum also serves on state and regional boards as an advocate for rural and community-owned utilities, helping ensure the perspectives of smaller public power providers are represented.
Under her leadership and example, PUD 3 staff engage in local support through organization wide community engagement programs, which resulted in 2,118 volunteer hours and $26,940 in employee charitable giving last year. “Our community is the heart of our utility,” Creekpaum said. “Our team members live, work, volunteer, and serve in Mason County, and we are proud to support our neighbors every day." Congratulations!
Welcome to Mason County! New place. New Adventures. A local credit union ready to help. Peninsula Credit Union is here for checking, savings, loans, digital banking, and shared branching support, wherever you are along your path.
Federally insured by NCUA
360.426.1601 pcfcu.org
Shelton 521 W Railroad
Belfair 23550 State Route 3
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Graffiti Creative Arts Center September–October 2026 classes
Located in downtown Shelton, Graffiti Creative Arts Center is a community art space offering classes, workshops, open studio time and creative activities for artists of all ages and experience levels. A growing part of Shelton's arts community. Graffiti Creative Arts Center arrived at a time when downtown Shelton has been developing a stronger arts and culture identity. Owner Nicole's class philosophy reflects that spirit by bringing together traditional crafts, contemporary art, ceramics, painting, community groups and independent artists. A beginner can take a class. An experienced artist can work alongside other makers. A child can spend an evening painting pottery and eating pizza. A family can tackle a creative project together. Someone interested in pottery can try a wheel without purchasing equipment. The center brings resident and guest artists together under one roof and offers everything from ceramics and pottery to painting, sculpture, fluid art and specialty craft projects. Graffiti provides opportunities for beginners as well as experienced artists to explore something new.
September
9/5 — Coil Vase or Bowl Ceramic Handbuilding 3 PM | $40 9/9 — Four-Week Sculpture Class: Octopus 11 PM | $165 — Mouse Paint Class 6 PM | $35 9/11 — Beginner Wheel Class 11 AM 9/12 — Bat Wall Hangers: Ceramic Handbuilding 2 PM | $45 9/16 — Luna Moth Wall Hanging Ceramics 6 PM | $40 9/18 — Tower Mug Ceramics $35 9/19 — Wheel Throwing 2 PM | $65 — Chip and Dip Bowl: Ceramic Handbuilding 2 PM| $45 9/25 — Soap/Sponge Dish: Ceramic Handbuilding 2 PM| $35 9/26 — September QUAC: Fluid Art 2PM | $40 9/30 — Baking Dish: Ceramic Handbuilding 6 PM | $40
The following is a compilation of events currently listed for September through October 2026. Dates, times and prices are subject to change, and additional events may be added as the season progresses.
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October 2026
10/2 — Kids Club: Masks 6PM | $35 10/ 3 — Porch Luminaires: Ceramic Handbuilding 3 PM| $40 10/7 — Sober Art Group 10 AM| Free 10/7 — Poison Apple Ceramic Sculpting Class 6 PM| $35 10/9 — Eye Bowl: Ceramic Handbuilding 6 PM | $35 10/10 — October QUAC (Queer Art Club) Noon 10/14 — Witchy Moon Paint Class 6PM| $35 10/16 — Pottery Date Night 7 PM| $120 10/17 — Pollinator House: Ceramic Handbuilding 11 PM| $35 10/ 23 — Radiant Raven Paint Class | $35 – Beginner Wheel Throwing with Blaine 7 PM| $65 10/24 — Beginner Wheel Throwing with Blaine 11 AM| $65
DAHLIAS AT THE FJORD
Flowers, food & wine celebrate the Hood Canal harvest
On Thursday, October 8, the Fjord Oyster Bank is bringing the color to the table with Dahlias at the Fjord, an autumn evening created with Heather Ollenburg of The Thicket on Hood Canal and Castle & Crown Cellars of Port Townsend. Heather and her family grow and hybridize dahlias at their small Hood Canal farm, where a family experiment growing dahlias from seed eventually led to original varieties of their own. For this special evening, Heather will arrive with buckets of October blooms and guide guests in creating a fresh dahlia arrangement in a locally grown pumpkin. No two need be alike—and everyone takes their creation home. Fjord Oyster Bank will prepare a seasonal multi-course dinner celebrating the flavors of fall, beginning, with harvest from the sea and shore. Each course will be paired with a wine selected from Castle & Crown Cellars, ending on a sweet note from the
Fjord's own gelato kitchen. With heaters warding off the fall chill, pumpkins and dahlias covering the tables, wine in the glasses and Finch Creek rushing nearby, consider it part flower workshop, part wine dinner and part Hood Canal harvest party. Come hungry. Leave carrying flowers.
IF YOU GO
Dahlias at the Fjord
Friday, October 8, 5:30–8:30 PM Fjord Oyster Bank , Hoodsport Includes guided dahlia workshop with The Thicket, fresh flowers, pumpkin and take-home arrangement, seasonal multi-course Fjord dinner and Castle & Crown wine pairings. $95 per person, advance reservations required. Limited seating. tracingthefjord.com
Connecting our Community with 100% Carbon-Free Electricity!
Safe, reliable, economical, and sustainable services, 24/7.
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Craig Romano | photos & story
Home Lake Little Home Lake lies on a rugged and remote ridge tucked between some of the highest and most impressive peaks in the Olympic Mountains. Fed by springs and surrounded by clusters of subalpine firs and flowering meadows, Home’s setting is quite serene. But cast your attention beyond its placid waters and be blown away by the staggering beauty of its neighboring mountains—especially of 7,756-foot Mount Constance, whose sheer western rock face towers above the lake. It’s an awe-inspiring scene, and a side of the mountain so starkly different from the one presented to countless folks who have admired this familiar peak from the east. It’s a long way to Home Lake making it a multi-day hike for all but the strongest hikers and trail runners. The lake can be approached via four routes with the approach starting on the Upper Dungeness Trail being the shortest and easiest (but not easy). That route along with the Tubal Cain Mine Trail approach involve long (and bumpy) drives for folks coming from the South Sound. The Dosewallips-Constance Pass approach involves walking a long stretch of old road and a very steep lightly maintained trail. My preferred route to Home is via the Upper Big Quilcene River Trail to Marmot Pass. While this means enduring a busy trail for a few miles, you’re rewarded with exceptional views and several excellent campsites along the way if the 11 mile route to the lake is too much to do in one day.
The trails now leaves the forest for subalpine meadows which burst with wildflowers through the summer. Watch for scurrying ground squirrels, languid marmots, and docile deer. At 5.3 miles, crest 5,950-foot Marmot Pass and savor the excellent view east to Hood Canal, Puget Sound, and the Cascades. Then gaze west towards the Dungeness Valley flanked by Mounts Mystery, Deception, and Walkinshaw; some of the highest summits in the Olympics.
The Upper Big Quilcene River Trail enters the 44,258-acre Buckhorn Wilderness, the largest roadless area within the Olympic National Forest. The trail starts off gently traversing magnificent stands of primeval forest along the churning waters of the Big Quilcene River. You’ll cross many side creeks along the way. Lack of water is not an issue on this route. After passing Shelter Rock Camp, the trail steeply climbs away from the river to begin traversing open avalanche chutes and scree slopes offering good views of the rugged surroundings. Keep climbing—it only gets better. At just shy of five miles the trail reaches busy Camp Mystery set in a grove of Alaska yellow cedars and subalpine firs. Its springs are a great place to refill water bottles.
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From the pass, the Tubal Cain Trail veers right offering another albeit longer and more difficult approach to the pass. For Home Lake head left traversing open slopes granting sweeping views of a wall of craggy summits. Here in the Olympic rainshadow, the terrain is much drier than the rest of the Olympics. Lodgepole and whitebark pines cling to the ridges and steep slopes. 76
Look for Clark’s nutcracker, a jay-like bird which feeds on pine nuts. Listen for its raucous call, a rare sound in the Olympics. The way now descends and traverses a steep slope that often harbors two steep (potentially dangerous) snowfields earlier in the summer. The trail then enters open pine forest and descends steeply. Remember—you’ll have to climb this stretch on your return. At just over 7 miles the trail reaches a junction with the Dungeness River Trail—the easiest approach to Home Lake. Now continue left on the Home Lake Trail crossing a creek and entering an open basin littered with jumbled boulders. Here find Boulder Camp with its restored and historic shelter. This is a good place to set up camp for the night.
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VISIT OUR WEBSITE TO BOOK YOUR RIDE Visit our website to book your adventure!
421 W. Hanks Lake Road (541) 519-4200
vcrailriders.com
Cameo Boutique “On Beautiful Hood Canal” Est. 1983
43RD ANNUAL HOLIDAY OPEN HOUSE FRIDAY OCTOBER 30TH SATURDAY, OCTOBER 31ST SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 1ST
We invite you to join us in celebrating all the glorious sights, scents and sounds of the Holiday Season Refreshments & Door Prizes Open every day 10:00—5:00 360-898-3200 320 E. Dalby Rd @ UNION SQUARE www.cameoboutique.com
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For Home Lake continue south climbing to a forested swale and soon reaching an unmarked junction. The trail left leads one mile to a 6,300-foot gap from where a steep scramble path drops 800 feet to the tiny Charlia Lakes tucked in a rugged cirque. It makes for a spectacular and challenging side trip. Continue south traversing steep slopes sporting stunted trees. At 8.0 miles enter Olympic National Park. If you’re hiking with a dog, this is your turning around spot. From here the lightly used path skirts steep avalanche swept slopes and crosses several cascading creeks. The terrain opens up as the trail travels beneath the formidable towering and stark walls of 7,300-foot Warrior Peak and 7,756- Mount Constance, third highest peak in the Olympics. The trail descends and gets rougher traversing a sprawling boulder and talus field. The walking is slow over the jumbled mess coupled by an inclination to keep tilting your head upwards and pause in amazement. After negotiating the rocky mess the trail once again climbs. It ducks into a forested area to skirt snowfields at the base of Constance. At 10.5 miles and at an elevation of 5300 feet, reach Home Lake housed in a small basin beneath steep flowered slopes.
From its south shore enjoy home sweet views of Warrior Peak (named by celebrated climber Fred Beckey when he solo climbed it back in 1946). Lightly used camps (permits required) can be found on the wooded bluff above its western shore. If you have any energy left, be sure to continue on the trail beyond the lake for another half mile climbing steeply up heather and flower fields to 5,800foot Constance Pass. From here take in a breathtaking view of the Dosewallips Valley below and magnificent views of The Brothers, Mount Anderson, Mount La Crosse and a wide swath of the wild Olympic interior. Upon completing this hike, you just might be quoting a famous Dorothy with, “there’s no place like home!”
If you go:
Distance: 21.0 miles roundtrip Elevation Gain: 5800 feet High Point: 5350 feet Difficulty: difficult Snow free: July through October Notes: Overnight camping permits required for Home Lake which is in Olympic National
(acquire at Recreation.gov or from Wilderness Information Center in Port Angeles; https:// www.nps.gov/olym/index.htm). Dogs are prohibited at Home Lake and in Olympic National Park. Campfires are prohibited Home Lake and above 3,500'. Dangerous steep snowfield just beyond Marmot Pass often lingers well into summer. Trailhead Pass Needed: Northwest Forest Pass or Interagency Pass GPS waypoints: Trailhead: N47 49.669, W123 02.445 Land Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene; and Olympic National Park, Wilderness Information Center, Port Angeles, www.nps.gov/olym Recommended Guidebooks: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 3rd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books) and Backpacking Washington 2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers). Trailhead directions: From Shelton, follow US 101 north for 48 miles turning right onto Penny Creek Road (about 1.5 miles south of Quilcene). After 1.5 miles bear left onto Big Quilcene River Road (FR 27) and follow this road for 9.3 miles turning left onto FR 2750. Continue 4.7 miles to the Upper Big Quilcene River Trailhead. Trailhead facilities: privy
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HOOD CANAL | OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK & FOREST (THE WILD SIDE)
Dreaming of the perfect escape? Welcome to the wild side of Washington. Less than two hours from Seattle or Portland, but a world away from the ordinary.
TAKE A MOMENT TO ADMIRE THE VIEW WITH WAYLON (THE DOG).
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HOW DO YOU RECHARGE? Scuba diving? Climbing? Kayaking? Fishing? Or maybe savoring oysters freshly picked from the beach. What our area lacks in big hotel chains (none!), we more than make up for with great hikes, friendly restaurants serving locally sourced seafood, and unique lodging—nestled in the woods or perched along our fjord shores.
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AND OUR EVENTS? No matter what Northwest weather comes our way, we offer year round music & celebrations bringing your family into ours. Embark on the ultimate road trip and find yourself on Hood Canal. Download our FREE itinerary guides today and start planning your next adventure.
Call toll free 866-922-7469 or visit explorehoodcanal.com for information. Download the WildsideWA APP in your Apple or Google Play Store for updates & maps!
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