Issuu

Re -Story Strategy & Promotion

Lydia Bell 1

Contents

Industry Analysis

Brand Analysis

12 PEST Analysis 14 The Vintage Market 16 The Sustainable Fashion Industry 18 Fashion Industry Waste 20 Upcycling 22 Consumer Attitudes

42 About Retold 48 Interview with Founder 50 SWOT Analysis 52 Brand Offerings 58 Current Sustainable Aspects 60 Target Audience 62 Tagret Press 64 Influencers 66 Competitors 74 PESO Analysis 76 Online Audit

Introduction

Layer

Objectives

05 Introduction 09 Executive Summary

24 About Layer 29 Rationale 30 Services 32 Specialist Advisers 34 Target Press 36 Clients 38 Competitor Analysis

88 89

PR Objectives Business Objectives

Target Audience

Logistics

Reference List

92 94 96 98 100

158 Timeline 162 Costs

170 175

Generation Z Generation Y Generation X Target Personas Consumer Incentive

Strategy & Tactics

Measuring Success & The Future

104 Rationale 106 SWOT Analysis 108 Promotional Mix

166 168

112 114 118 134 144

Image Reference List Reference List

Measuring Success Future Considerations

PESO Analysis Collection Process Tactics - Promotional Materials Tactics - Social Media Tactics - Event 3

Retold, 2020. 4

01 Introduction

Introduction

This document will thoroughly and thoughtfully propose a collection launch and accompanying campaign strategy. Retold, a female-focused vintage brand, was founded in 2018 in East London by Clare Lewis, following a substantial career in the fast fashion industry which left her questioning her consumer values and increasingly turning to vintage clothing. Retold was created with the vision of transforming vintage and second-hand clothing into carefully curated stylish collections with a modern, minimal aesthetic. Layer, is a sustainability consultancy, partnering with and advising brands to help to create a more sustainable fashion industry. Layer works with mid to high market developing brands, that have the sustainable ethos and desire to make positive changes but need some assistance in the planning and execution. Layer has a broad roster of advisors, who specialise in a range of areas to meet clients’ needs through a holistic approach.

Executive Summar y Re-Story is a partnership between Retold, a vintage brand, and Layer, a sustainability consultancy, with the shared aim of reducing waste through retelling garments’ stories and striving toward a more sustainable fashion industry where second-hand and reworked are more than just trends, but the definition of the industry. The collaborative project will culminate in a capsule collection of zero-waste garments, created using deadstock vintage fabric and a collection of carefully curated vintage pieces supplied by Retold’s consumers, to provide the wearer with minimalist, stylish wardrobe staples with a sustainable flare, increasing the exclusivity of the garments. With the vintage and second-hand market rapidly growing, this capsule collection will provide a USP for Retold’s business model, increasing and diversifying offerings, attracting more customers and expanding the brand. This capsule collection will enable Retold to test planning, creating and launching a consistent line of reworked clothing using waste fabric, utilising Layer’s resources and expertise, with the aim of implementing the reworked clothing line permanently following a successful partnership and collection. The collection will be promoted through a carefully planned launch campaign to reach a wide audience, from a broad demographic. Re-Story aims to increase Retold’s community, and the collection will enable clothing to be celebrated and purchased without a guilty conscience, demonstrating that wearing waste doesn’t compromise style.

CNN Style, 2020.

02 Industr y Analysis

PEST Analysis Political France banning the burning of designer waste products has left brands questioning what to do with surplus stock to preserve brand value.

Shopping for pre-owned items is also on the rise. The secondhand market is expected to hit $64 billion by 2024 (Morgan, Blake. 2020).

“We are aware that some businesses are facing challenges with specific aspects of our new trading relationship with the EU. To this end, we are operating export helplines, running webinars with policy experts and offering businesses support via our network of 300 international trade advisers. This is on top of the millions we have invested to expand the customs intermediaries

In the UK, there are a total of 3,943 stores specialising in selling second-hand goods and it is an industry employing approximately 36,000 people. During 2019, sales in these stores saw a 17.6 percent rise in value, a notably large increase on the past two years (Statista, 2020).

sector.” - Government Spokesperson (BBC, 2021).

The fashion industry contributes more to UK GDP than fishing, music, film and motor industries combined (BBC, 2021).

The fashion sector in the United Kingdom (UK), built on duty-free access to the EU, is facing the risk of export tariffs into its biggest trading partner from 2021 onward (Arnett, George. 2020). Complex VAT charges and handling fees now in place have led shoppers in Europe to stop ordering or to reject deliveries (The Guardian, 2020). UK manufacturers and designers say they have suffered delays and additional costs on shipping materials, samples or components to and from Europe (The Guardian, 2020). 12

Economic

The UK clothing industry is the third largest in Europe and a study found British consumers spend an average of £980.50 a year on new clothes (Circular Online, 2020).

Social

Technological

Nearly 50% of fast fashion retailers have reported a recent decrease in customer purchases as consumers look for brands that take a stand for the environment (Morgan, Blake. 2020).

Online secondhand shopping is set to grow 69% between 2019 and 2021, compared to a 15% contraction in the broader retail market, according to a report by online consignment platform ThredUp (CB Insights, 2021).

Fashion shopping app Lyst has seen a 37% increase in searches for sustainabilityrelated keywords in early 2020 compared to the year before, with average monthly searches topping 32,000, up from 27,000 in 2019 (CB Insights, 2021).

Aside from changing Covid-19 restrictions, consumers increasingly prefer the convenience and speed of online shopping, even if it means not being able to try an item on in person (Morgan, Blake. 2020).

Consumers who perceive the risk of COVID-19 to be very high are almost four times more likely to shift their shopping habits in the long-term. This group reflects those in society who have in the past been slow to adopt online banking and shopping. They have now been forced to shop in new ways for essential items, and they do not intend to change these new habits (Business Reporter, 2021).

Artificial Intelligence (AI) and advanced technologies may also have a part to play in the push for sustainability in fashion. More accurate systems will help to reduce production waste (CB Insights, 2021).

Nearly half (48%) of UK consumers plan to avoid busy destinations such as large shopping centres, suggesting scepticism in the ability of retailers to reimagine the customer journey (Business Reporter, 2021). According to research conducted by sociologist Sophie Woodward at the University of Manchester, on average 12% of clothes in the wardrobes of women she studied could be considered “inactive” (Beall, Abigail, 2020).

Nearly three quarters of those surveyed (73.5%) reported that they are shopping online more now than they did prior to the spread of Covid-19. Moreover, nearly 9 in 10 (88%) said they will continue to shop online more even after a cure or vaccine for Covid-19 is developed (Conca, James. 2020).

The Vintage Market

Vintage has been a long-standing part of global business, across industries including automotive as well as fashion. Within the fashion industry, the term vintage is widely classified as an item which is 20 years or older (Fashion Revolution, 2019). The sense of nostalgia associated with vintage clothing draws in consumers of all ages, and with such a vast range on offer, there is something to cater to all audiences, from workwear through to Great Gatsby-styled evening dresses and iconic designer bags. The expansion of the vintage market is showing no signs of abating, gaining further momentum through the sustainable benefits of second-hand clothing, and the current importance of this with sustainability issues prevalent within the wider fashion industry. In 2012, the second-hand apparel global market value was estimated to be worth 11 billion US dollars, now reaching new heights, valued at 33 billion dollars in 2020. The market is showing encouraging signs of rapid growth, with Thredup and Statista predicting the market to be worth a staggering 51 billion dollars in 2023 (Statista, 2021). According to Forbes, that would mean that the resale market could command as much as 10% of the retail industry’s sales (Loeb, Walter. 2019). The global pandemic has left consumers spending more time at home online and re-evaluating and adjusting their shopping habits in favour of more sustainable alternatives. This has led to 66 million pre-loved items going to a new home in 2020 on eBay, the same amount as the UK’s population (Wightman-Stone, 2020). 14

Vogue Business, 2020.

Vogue Business, 2020. 16

The Sustainable Fashion Industr y McKinsey & Company has predicted in their State of Fashion 2021 Report, that circularity will move from the fashion fringes towards centre stage, becoming one of the key business trends of the next decade. An increasing numbers of policy-makers and consumers are addressing the issue of sustainability within the fashion industry. The rise of fast fashion has left the industry as one of the most polluting, and a collective effort is needed across industry and society to tackle this huge problem. Collaborations between industry partners are becoming more common, enabling businesses to pool resources and audiences. Brands such as Selfridges are adding circular elements to their core business offerings, including their Resellfridges program, to help normalise sustainable shopping in the minds of consumers (McKinsey & Company, 2021), as well as using the brand’s platform to promote small brands which are focused on changing the industry and views surrounding waste. There is extensive research and testing happening in the industry, with new materials and ethical processes being developed including Mylo, a mushroom leather which has seen multiple industry figures partner and invest including Kering and Stella McCartney (Stanley, Jack. 2020). Sustainable practices are becoming a baseline requirement for brands, partly due to increased consumer awareness and demand.

Fashion Industr y Waste

According to McKinsey & Company’s State of Fashion 2021, less than 1% of products are recycled into new garments. Every year, unused fabric costs the fashion industry about $120 billion, according to online deadstock marketplace Queen of Raw (Kent, Sarah. 2021). The pandemic resulted in a reduction of sales which has escalated this problem, with brands sitting on unsold stock and factories having rolls of unused fabric meant for orders which were cancelled. Although a global problem, in 2020 the UK was named as the fourth largest textile waste producer in Europe, on average producing 206,456 tonnes of textile waste in a year (Moore, Darrel. 2020). With such an excess of waste, it begs the question, why create something new when there is already so much product available to use? In the past, unsold product would have been thrown away or burned, particularly by luxury brands in an attempt to preserve brand value. This practice has now been banned in France by law (Chan, Emily. 2020), and a huge consumer uproar led to multiple brands pledging to be more mindful and ethical when dealing with waste product. Luxury British brand Burberry has made positive strides in the area, donating unsold clothing to those in need for job interviews, and designers are donating unused fabric to fashion schools or reselling it themselves. 18

The Pretty Planeteer.

Vogue, 2020.

Upcycling

Vogue identified upcycling as the biggest trend of Spring Summer 2021 (Chan, Emily. 2020), with WGSN predicting that the reworked phenomenon will continue as a strong trend which is shaking up the fashion industry and attitudes towards waste and discarded items. With the pandemic leading to between £125 billion to £142 billion worth of excess inventory from Spring Summer 2020 collection, more than double the average (Chan, Emily, 2020); it is an appropriate time for designers and brands to embrace upcycling, and test new ways to reduce waste. Although the word ‘upcycled’ can be seen to have negative connotations within the fashion industry, particularly luxury, emerging brands such as 1/OFF Paris work to design unique pieces, which is rarely possible in an era of fast fashion and mass production. This exclusivity has helped to increase acceptance and positive connotations around the sustainable practice, paving a way for a more original and expressive contemporary industry. This view is echoed by Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen, who began working with surplus materials in 2020; “it makes the product more exclusive and limited and adds value” (Chan, Emily, 2020). 21

Consumer At titudes

Consumer demand drives the fashion industry and has led to the explosion of fast fashion. In a recent survey, McKinsey & Company found that today, “more than three in five consumers said environmental impact is an important factor in making purchasing decisions”. Younger generations, in particular, are drivers for change within this industry; being born into a sharing economy through services such as Uber and Airbnb, adopting circular shopping habits alongside this is a logical and natural step. Despite this, McKinsey found that terms such as recycled, upcycled, repaired and refurbished still hold negative connotations. However, with increased exposure and time, these views will fade, with the BBC labelling vintage clothing as the “new luxury”, becoming more attractive and moving to mass culture due to fashion today rarely being exclusive. Having the ability to make a guilt-free purchase has become a customer desire after documentaries, environmentalists and statistics have made consumers fully aware of the extent to which the fashion industry has sustainability issues. Disasters such as the Rana Plaza have highlighted to customers the scale of the issue which brands tried to conceal and are now demanding change. Mintel found that a combination of sustainable features appeals to 69% of shoppers (Mintel, 2020). This could perhaps be due to greenwashing being so prevalent in the industry, leaving shoppers unsure on what brands are being truthful with sustainable credentials. 22

Sarah Lazarovic.

03 Layer

About Layer

Layer is a sustainability consultancy specialising in helping brands to bring their sustainable goals to life, using a holistic and thoughtful approach to generate new solutions. Systemic change is needed to transform the industry, after an era of fast fashion has had a detrimental impact on the layers of our ecosystem, leaving a gaping hole that we must refill, with thoughtful and purposeful action. Layer’s clients achieve sustainability at a deeper level, leaving with layers of sustainability deeply ingrained into their brand identities, not just sustainable on the surface. Currently, Layer caters to mid to high market and smaller or emerging brands who lack the resource and expertise to put sustainable systems in place but have the determination to work towards their sustainable vision for their brand, which we help to bring to life. We treat each client as a completely new challenge, immersing ourselves in the brand to accurately understand the correct sustainable changes for them. In the wake of a shift in consumer attitudes, it is key that brands develop a sustainable business plan to meet the changing demands.

Layer’s Brand Guidelines Layer utilises considered and thoughtful language to encourage action and change. The positive tone communicates the excitement and endless possibilities which are available in a sustainable fashion industry. Layer puts an emphasis on ensuring each client is content with the mark they’re making on the environment, with the hope of leaving a positive impact. Layer helps to increase learning and understanding around the topic, adding layers of knowledge to clients. Layer’s values show the stages and components needed to create permament, positive and sustainable change. Layer’s primary values are reset, nurture, posterity, collective and transparency.

Rationale | Why is Layer needed?

The previous research highlighted the importance of sustainability in modern society. Being sustainable is becoming the basic requirement for a brand. This is a positive step within the industry, however smaller and emerging brands need assistance in navigating the complex world of sustainable fashion, to ensure ethical practices are implemented and effective as possible. Layer offers a wide range of resources and advisors to attract clients and to create successful change. Layer’s clients are able to expand their business and build important contacts within the sustainable fashion industry.

Layer’s Ser vices Taking a holistic approach to sustainability, Layer offers a wide range of services to cater to the broad needs of clients. The results are exciting and varied, with no client going through the same process.

Services and past projects include: Textile Waste Collectors Deadstock Fabric Suppliers Natural Dyes Upcycling Sustainable Packaging Reducing Waste Eco-Friendly Equipment Ethical Processes

A Beautiful Mess, 2020.

Gallant, 2020.

Offset Warehouse.

Bellantoni. 31

Layer’s Specialist Advisers

Clare Press

Bethany Williams

Mor ten Lehmann

Clare Press has long been a catalyst in the fashion industry to promote sustainable practices. She was the first ever VOGUE Sustainability Editor and was also the first Global Ambassador for the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Make Fashion Circular initiative, and has been a member of Australian advisory board of Fashion Revolution since 2014.

Bethany Williams is a sustainable fashion designer, humanitarian and artist. Williams launched the label in 2017 with a mission to create positive social and environmental change in the world. Since its inception, the label has grown exponentially, establishing itself as a leading figure in the fashion industry when it comes to setting sustainability standards.

Morten Lehmann is Chief Sustainability Officer of Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), the world’s foremost leadership forum for industry collaboration on sustainability in fashion. Providing his expertise on sustainability to the fashion world, encouraging others to follow in his mission.

Dr Helen Crowley Dr Helen Crowley has been driving change not just in the fashion industry but in wider society through her conservation and development projects and consultancy work with corporations to help implement their sustainability strategies. Her focus falls on innovative cross-cutting sustainability solutions to guide corporations in their implementation of sustainability strategies.

Sanjeev Bahl Sanjeev Bahl is the founder and chief executive of Saitex, a Vietnam-based sustainable denim manufacturer. Bahls drive for sustainability is a core reason why the Saitex’s popularity has increasingly grown amongst major US brands.

Marsha Dickson Marsha Dickson is a global academic leader for her research, teaching, and practical engagement in social responsibility and global supply chains. From her meaningful work she helps global suppliers to overcome challenges whilst promoting a sustainable supply chain.

Amy Powney Amy Powney began her sustainability mission sweeping the cutting room floor at Mother of Pearl and found her way to fulfil this mission as its Creative Director, promoting sustainability through her catwalk shows in London and Copenhagen.

Of fset Warehouse Offset warehouse is a social and sustainable business that operates with the goal of protecting loved ones, and the environment by providing a range of eco fabrics and haberdashery.

Worn Again Technologies Worn again technologies is a UK based company which strives to eradicate textile waste, whilst offering consumers exciting and desirable products such as footwear, handbags, jackets and accessories made from disused textiles, including old prison blankets. 33

Target Press Layer would aim to receive press coverage from clients’ target press through successful projects with brands, as well as working to get featured within their own targeted press. Brands would be introduced to a new world of media, gaining exposure in sustainable news outlets and magazines. Layer’s Target Press: Eco Textile News Premiere Vision News Ethical Corporation Sourcing Journal Ellen Macarthur Foundation Wrap Business Green (not fashion based) Green Biz (not fashion based) Fashion Revolution zines Considered Magazine More or Less Magazine Podcasts: Wardrobe Crisis, BBC Sounds Fashion Fix with Charli Howard, Sourcing Journal Podcast, Mothers of Invention 34

Clients Layer has worked with a number of clients from accessories to clothing. Working with clients who match Layer’s values and goals is important to create a coherent portfolio of clients. Previous clients and projects include: Layer worked with jewellery brand Missoma to create a collection made from recycled materials. Les Girls Les Boys had a vision to create a garment recycling scheme for customers, which Layer brought to life. Layer worked with Pepe Jeans on a long term project to implement a sustainable business model, and communicate this and their new sustainable direction on their website. Layer helped to implement practices including adjusting manufacturing processes to use less water. Neous is a brand specialising in handbags and shoes which have fluid lines and resemble sculptural forms. Layer worked with Neous to begin using alternative leather to calf including mushroom leather. Glassworks approached Layer with the goal of choosing more sustainable materials for their small drops, looking for the opportunity to test new sustainable fabrics. Kitri worked with Layer on a capsule collection using natural dyes, derived from natural products such as beetroot and tumeric reflecting the sustainable values and bright colours of the brand. 36

Competitors|Cluxter Cluxter is a strategic and marketing consultancy boutique for the fashion sector, based in Florence, Italy. The company is a consulting collective with a range of advisors offering bespoke services to luxury producers, with the aim of developing a high quality product using sustainable production processes. With previous clients including College Moccasin, Cluxter is tailored to a high-end luxury target market, contrasting with Layer which is aimed at smaller, mid-market brands who want to become more sustainable but need assistance or resources to reach their goals. Cluxter has two ateliers; leather goods and footwear, and use modern CAD design and 2D and 3D rendering technologies. The team is split into a number of specialist areas, including business and product development, raw materials, compliance and sustainability, operations and digital. As Cluxter currently specialises in Footwear and Accessories, they cater to a smaller and more specific audience, this contrasts with Layer who caters to a wider audience, with a more diverse offering of services.

“we think using deadstock could

The company has worked on previous projects using deadstock materials, however Cluxter found not all materials could be used on both footwear and accessories. Ruth from Cluxter stated that “we think using deadstock could be interesting for emerging brands and we are considering it for future projects with clients”.

it for future projects with

be interesting for emerging brands and we are considering clients”. Ruth, Cluxter.

Cluxter, 2021.

Good Looping, 2018.

Competitors|Good Looping Good Looping is a London-based sustainability consultancy specialising in strategy creation, implementation and global supply chain transformation, founded in 2018. Their mission is to drive transparency, inspire great practices whilst reducing harm to the environment. Key topics they focus on include sustainable sourcing, human rights, disclosure and transparency, collaboration, climate actions and respect for biodiversity. With modern global supply chains appearing incredibly complex with many links involved, Good Looping helps to examine the brands supply chain and offer intelligent solutions to create a more holistically ethical process. As well as a consultancy service, Good Looping also holds workshops and training to provide expert knowledge for buying, creative and production teams. This helps to inspire, engage and educate an entire team with the hope of creating change. On Instagram, the consultancy only has 385 followers, but use their platform to educate and inform followers, including posting about materials such as Modal, a wood based fibre. When first launched, the Instagram platform posted numerous times a week, however they have failed to post in 2021, reducing their reach and making them less of an active competitor for Layer. The company attended numerous summits such as Hong Kong’s Fashion Summit in 2018. The agency also launched a Good Looping Magazine in 2018, offering a free review of the current sustainable fashion industry. The logo is simple and instantly recognisable, linking to the name and communicating the simplicity of living sustainably.

“ We work with businesses in the fashion industry that are looking to revolutionise the way they make and create”. Good Looping. 41

04 Brand Analysis

About Retold Retold, a female-focused vintage brand, was founded in 2018 in East London by Clare Lewis, following a substantial career in the fast fashion industry which left her questioning her consumer values and increasingly turning to vintage clothing. Retold was created with the vision of transforming vintage and second-hand clothing into carefully curated stylish collections with a modern, minimal aesthetic, with the aim of making vintage and second-hand clothing inspiring and accessible to as many people as possible. New handpicked curated collections drop every other week on the website, with Retold’s subscribers getting exclusive early access. The collections are promoted on Retold’s Instagram, utilising stories, grid posts, photography and text, as well as features of the app including countdown features.

“Retold has allowed me to enjoy all that I loved about fashion but in a way that is much more environmentally friendly. Over the last few years I had definitely become aware of the negative side to the fashion industry”. Clare Lewis, Founder of Retold. 44

Retold, 2021.

Retold, 2020.

Brand Aesthetic Retold has a clear colour scheme which is evident through their coherent collections, imagery and communications across their website and social media. The neutral, earthy tones reflect the sustainable values of the brand and support the minimal but modern aesthetic. Instagram is the main social media platform utilised by Retold, which reflects the sophisticated and minimal ethos of the brand and customer, working with a ‘less is more’ approach. Retold’s tone of voice mirrors the style that the brand offers; modern, minimal and considered. The brand understands their customers are busy, many being working professional or women with families who have limited spare time. To show they know their customers, Retold’s communication is succinct, straight to the point but with a friendly tone to create a positive mood when the consumer visits the brand. This is consistent through the website and subscriber email content, using phrases such as “it’s as simple as that”, to communicate the ease of the Retold shopping experience. The copy on Retold’s Instagram posts are slightly more informal and conversational than the emails, helping to harvest a community of Retold’s followers, like-minded consumers united through style and second-hand shopping.

Inter view with Clare , Retold’s Founder Interviewer: Please could you tell me about the process you go through when planning and sourcing your collections? Clare: I don’t source in collections, I source pieces, when I find them. I have my own personal criteria when I source in terms of the style of it, or the colour, if there’s a print and the fabric is really important to me. And obviously the condition has to be a certain level. A good thing to know about vintage is especially when it gets managed from a wholesale perspective, they grade it on the quality and then that dictates the price. So, the quality is really important for me, the kind of level that I like. I have certain designers that I always love and that my customers really like. I look out for them and have a very set aesthetic. So, my minimal clean aesthetic is my criteria. I always think about whether I would personally wear it. And if it isn’t something that I would personally wear, then I wouldn’t take it. When I pull collections together, I go through all my reels and get the whole story together. I like to have items that compliment each other so that everything in the collection could be worn together and swapped in and out. Interviewer: Who is your target market? Clare: I think she’s late 20s, right up to the mid 50s. It’s hard to say whether I appeal to students or not. I don’t have a massive student customer base, mainly because of my price point. I’d say she’s a little bit older, probably has more of a disposable income, is sustainably minded and enjoys supporting small independent brands. Shopping more consciously is important to her. I think now people are seeing vintage can work alongside a very contemporary wardrobe, and that looks and works well for them. There’s lots of different choice out there now and it’s definitely given a broader range of wardrobes and customer.

Interviewer: I saw that you recently joined HURR Collective, what are your hopes for Retold’s presence on the rental platform? Clare: I definitely want to increase that collection, I could say really everything on there could be rented. I like picking pieces that are stand out because once something is sold it’s gone and the garment can only be loved by one person. I almost kind of didn’t want to let them go in a way. Interviewer: What are your dreams for the future of Retold? Clare: I really want Retold to be this go to place for shopping consciously. I’m working at the moment on developing my consignment side of the business, so that’s kind of selling people’s items for them. Trying to encourage people to really kind of look at their wardrobes and see realistically what they’re wearing and what they’re not wearing, giving people another avenue of how to get rid of items that they don’t want any more. I still love doing my collaborations and supporting other brands that are also doing great things in terms of resale or creating conscious items. Retold, 2021. 49

SWOT Analysis

Subscribers service to encourage loyal customers.

Minimal physical presence reduces some customer reach.

Positive press coverage.

Small presence on HURR Collective (only two suits available to rent).

Regular content on Instagram.

Only regularly active social media presence is Instagram, however it is currently one of the most popular platforms so an appropriate choice for a streamlined

Well regarded for high quality vintage clothing. Some physical presence (pop-up stalls and Retold’s studio in London).

optio-channeled social media presence. Retold has a Facebook profile, however it is very inactive and the last post was in August 2020. Inactive social platforms can deter potential consumers.

Vintage market is rapidly expanding.

Competitors in a rapidly growing market.

Collaborating with another brand to increase reach and promotion on social media, increasing brand awareness. Retold has previously collaborated with other brands and is open to the concept.

The vintage market is growing which could lead to potential oversaturation of the market. Retold would benefit from a new aspect to their business which would provide them with a USP, and a customer incentive to shop.

Actively looking for ways to make the business more sustainable. New presence on HURR Collective opens the opportunity to appeal to a younger audience, as renting is much more affordable. Opportunity to expand and increase Instagram following and subscribers, creating a community of loyal customers. Opportunity to expand on the story-telling and nostalgia associated with Retold and vintage clothing.

Brand Of ferings Retold offers vintage accessories, jewellery and clothing, including items from other indepdent sellers, showing a community outlook and curating a carefully styled online presence. The website matches the minimal aesthetic of the brand, it’s simple to use with clear user navigation. The website has a ‘Retold Bride’ section, as well as FAQs, creating a helpful experience for the audience. The sustainable ethos of the brand is clearly communicated online, providing the history and inspirations behind Retold.

Retold, 2021. 52

Retold, 2021.

Subscribers Retold’s subscribers gain early access to collection drops, as well as priority notifications on top-ups and exclusive collaborations. This exclusive element helps to build anticipation and awareness around the drops and collections Having subscribers helps to harvest a community of like-minded loyal customers who will use word of mouth and social media to promote the brand to family and friends, expanding the community.

Retold Subscriber Email, 2021. 54

Retold, 2021.

Consignment Ser vice Retold also offers a consignment service, helping to rehome preloved clothing in a hassle-free way. Retold sells consumers’ unwanted items on their behalf, taking a commission and managing the photography, sales, packaging and posting. Retold also absorbs all website and transaction fees. To ensure the products match Retold’s aesthetic and quality standard, images of potential products are sent in to be reviewed against Retold’s criteria. Selected items are promoted on Instagram and available to buy online, gaining a high level of coverage. Retold also gives the opportunity to donate a portion of the sale to a charity, communicating the ethical values of the brand. This helps to expand the product on offer to create a more versatile selection, with Retold sourcing products from a range of places including markets, private sellers etc. This is a more recent addition to Retold which Clare, the founder, is hoping to dedicate more time to. This is a great way for customers to re-evaluate what is in their wardrobe, making sure no garment goes unworn. This also adds a reason for consumers to visit the brand, as they have the option to sell or buy, increasing website traffic. This service has the potential to expand Retold’s community, creating a vintage community hub. The process is shown on social media through a story highlight which draws attention to the scheme and provides positive promotion. 56

Retold, 2021.

Current Sustainable Business Aspects

HURR Collective, 2020.

Retold is constantly evolving to become a more sustainable brand, however as a small brand run by one person, there is only so much that can be done. In March 2021, Retold joined HURR Collective rental service. This suggests that Retold is actively looking for new ways to create a multi-dimensional sustainable business. Joining a rental platform enables Retold’s clothes to become more accessible to younger or lower income audiences who possibly couldn’t afford to purchase the clothing. It also provides another platform which Retold will be promoted on, with HURR boasting 68,000 Instagram followers.

Retold, 2020.

Retold’s UK audience receive their purchase in a bag made from 100% recyclable materials and can be recycled, although it is up to the customer to dispose of the bag appropriately. Delicate items are packaged in re-usable cotton muslin bags. These bags can be repurposed in the customer’s home, or can be sent back to Retold to be reused through their ‘Circle Back’ scheme. As an incentive to encourage customers to act with sustainability in mind, for every 5 bags circled back, you receive a free standard UK delivery. These small changes make a great difference, and are much easier to implement than larger changes to business structure or adding new sustainable lines and collections

Target Market Louise Female aged 35. Modern, minimal fashion lover. In a position to spend slightly more money on clothing, but with the aim of keeping it for a long time. Interested in vintage fashion and sustainability. Has made lifestyle changes to live more sustainably. Enjoys owning one-off pieces which no one else has. Enjoys supporting small independent businesses.

“I think Retold represents todays fashion conscious woman who loves a modern aesthetic but wants to shop sustainably without compromising her style and time”. Clare Lewis, Founder of Retold. 61

Press Coverage Retold has been featured in numerous lifestyle and fashion publications, both in physical and online outputs. Physical coverage includes Sunday Times Style, The Telegraph, and ES Magazine where Racheal Dove described Retold as a “lesson in styling vintage the grownup way”. Retold is regularly featured in online publications and articles writing about vintage or sustainable shopping, including British Vogue, Sheerluxe, Who What Wear and ELLE. Sustainable magazines have also featured Retold, such as Eco-age and Keisei. Retold’s press coverage promotes the brand in a positive way, encouraging new customers and spreading awareness of the brand. The majority of coverage appears to be online, often articles featuring the top online or independent vintage shops, providing a profile description of Retold and an image, alongside other competitors. Words used to describe Retold include; versatile, stunningly curated edits, clean aesthetic, focus on tailoring, and is a highlighted as a brand that quickly sells out, with versatile styles which cater to vintage newcomers as well as vintage lovers. Retold’s sophisticated style and tone of voice helps when targeting the higher end, more prestigious press such as Vogue and The Telegraph.

Influencers Retold’s social media strategy doesn’t include paid influencer content, perhaps due to the smaller size of the brand and the exclusive nature of the product. However certain influencers support the brand, posting in Retold’s items and promoting vintage and sustainable fashion. These posts are often reposted by Retold, saved to a Story Highlight named “Retold Re-homed”.

Competitors|Atijo Described by ELLE as ‘Vintage shopping for the truly cool”(Murray Daisy. 2021), Atijo was founded in 2019 by four London-based creatives; Anu Odugbesan, Caitlin Moriarty, Londiwe Ncube and Safiya Yekwai. The brand sells homeware, womenswear and recently launched menswear. Collections include designer vintage pieces with a mid to high range price point, and is currently only available to buy on the @atijostore Instagram, which has 7,155 followers. Despite only being available on one platform, Atijo’s Instagram feed is carefully curated in a minimal, modern style to reflect the product on offer, varying shots between close-up detail and model shots. The Instagram captions are very minimal and straightforward to clearly communicate the product on sale. However, this minimises the ability to create a community on the page and build a rapport with customers, as the tone of voice is less conversational, and solely focused on selling the product. Atijo don’t post consistently, partly due to the selling style of their posts, with posts being more frequent when collections drop. Typically they post once a week, and collections have a tonal colour palette. The brand has featured alongside Retold in Marie Claire, ELLE and Refinery29. The brand doesn’t offer refunds or exchanges, which may deter potential consumers as they can’t try the product on before purchasing.

“ We want Atijo to inspire conscious consumption and celebrate style, culture and diversity”. Atijo’s four Founders.

ELLE, 2021.

Atijo, 2021.

Competitors|Another Matinee Another Matinee was founded by Sarah Brand in 2019, specialising in selling vintage dresses which are collected, repaired and curated into thoughtful collections which tell a story, communicated through detailed photography campaigns. Similar to Retold, the brand is a London-based online vintage retailer and releases regular small batch collections. Vogue described the brand as “expertly curated” (Another Matinee Website, 2021), and Collagerie labelled the brand as “digital vintage shopping at its very best” (Another Matinee Website, 2021). The brand has 8,327 Instagram followers, their feed is very well curated with a range of posts. They feature artwork and photography to show the inspiration behind the brand and collections. When promoting product, it is shown in a number of ways to keep the content exciting and varied; on the model, off the model styled in a vintage setting using props such as flowers and vases, as well as close up shots of detail of the product. The tone of voice of the brand is very friendly and fun, which matches the bright product on offer. The brand’s colour scheme is orange and blue, enforcing positive themes. The website often uses capitalisation to put emphasis on certain text, making a bold statement. Although Another Matinee is a direct competitor of Retold Vintage, as the brand specialises in dresses, it doesn’t threaten Retold’s stance as a brand offering a range of wardrobe staples. Retold welcomes a much wider audience, due to the wider range of product on offer, which is reflected through their high follower level on Instagram. The story telling aspect of Another Matinee is very effective and well communicated through text and promotional imagery. This is something that Retold touches on, however perhaps the story-telling aspect could be improved through increased promotion. Another Matinee also don’t offer a subscription service which is something Retold has, creating a community of loyal customers. 68

“I’d like my wardrobe to be made up of pieces that make me feel something, that capture a memory and tell stories of where I’ve been”. Sarah Brand, Another Matinee Founder

Another Matinee, 2021. 69

Competitors|1/OFF 1/OFF is a fashion label rooted in the upcycle movement, transforming high-end vintage garments into genderless reworked contemporary designs, from labels such as YSL, Burberry and Ralph Lauren. The brand promotes circular shopping and their creations help to extend the life of clothing and material. Founded by Xuan,Thu Nguyen and Renee van Wijngaarden, both saw first-hand the amount of waste produced by the fashion industry through their work, and felt inspired to start 1/OFF to use discarded clothes to extend the life cycle and promote a more circular fashion industry by using existing resources. The designs often use contrasting fabrics and techniques to stand out and create eclectic limited edition pieces, working to connect past with present and fun with formal. The pieces are created by 1/OFF’s team of couture makers, also working with individual creative ateliers who specialise in certain techniques and practices. Despite featuring similar high-end vintage pieces, the price point of the pieces is slightly higher than that of Retold, perhaps due to the time and skill that goes into reworking the garments in such a unique way. The promotional content distributed by the brand reflects the garments produced, using collage and elements such as tape to create unique collages which intrigue the viewer and reflect the reworked nature of the clothing. The social media content is vibrant and attracts attention, using a range of colours and photography styles to achieve varied posts. They share the creative journey, show what they have been working on and what they want to achieve. The brand has been featured by numerous media outlets, including Hypebeast and Grazia.

“The vintage market is vast, there is so much waste and there are plenty of resources”. Renee van Wijngaarden, 1/OFF Founder

1/0FF, 2021.

Competitors|The Vintage Studio

The Vintage Studio was founded by fashion graduate Lucy Winn, and began by specialising in reworked vintage designer mens blazers, which were upcycled to create feminine top, skirt and trouser sets. After being so well received, the brand expanded into reworking other products, including Burberry trench coats. The brand also sells vintage shoes and bags. The inspiration behind the brand was that with so many beautiful clothes already present in the world, why buy new? The brand offers highly individual pieces that no one else will have. The Vintage Studio is also helping to reduce waste by creating gloves made from excess fabric from other garments. The brand began in the owner’s kitchen as a one person team, and in 2021 they moved to a small studio and gained another team member to assist with sewing. The range of collections is currently quite limited due to the small scale of the team, however they are aiming to create a more diverse range of designs in the future. The colour palette of the brand is similar to Retold, featuring a lot of neutral tones, beige and cream. Simple styles with careful tailoring.

The Vintage Studio, 2021.

PESO Analysis Paid: Appears to be very little to no paid media, due to the small scale of the brand. This could be increased through tools such as influencer marketing.

Earned: Journalists and bloggers, primarily on Instagram. Media coverage from print and online publications.

Owned: Website, email and social profiles and content. A range of content used to reach and engage more consumers. Multiple posts about collections and launches to ensure information reaches consumer.

Shared: Shared by vintage community online including competitors.

Photography of clothing and captions.

Instagram and Facebook following.

Website/ecommerce imagery.

Influencers and customers.

Retold, 2020. 75

Social Media Audit|Instagram

LIKES: 1,069 COMMENTS: 65 ENGAGEMENT RATE: 3.024% These images are examples of Retold’s Instagram posts promoting a collection launch. Due to Covid-19, Clare styled, shot and modelled the images herself, using moving poses, props and varying backgrounds to keep content new and exciting, whilst in keeping with the brands aesthetic. Both posts include multiple images to provide previews of the collection and entice the viewer to visit the website for the launch.

LIKES: 480 COMMENTS: 27 ENGAGEMENT RATE: 1.352%

The viewer is directed to the website through the caption. The target audience of the post are Retold’s followers, but with enough information on the post to inform potential customers who don’t yet follow the brand. The post puts an emphasis on encouraging viewers to sign up to access the collection, content and offers in the best way. The engagement rate of the two posts is quite different, and perhaps an area for improvement could be achieving consistent engagement by posting at times which suit the customer. However this range could be due to Instagram’s algorithm.

LIKES: 543 COMMENTS: 24 ENGAGEMENT RATE: 1.512%

These images are examples of Retold’s Instagram posts showing product detail, with a wider aim of promoting a collection launch. The image shows the quality and detail of the collection, communicating the attention to detail and care taken when curating collections. Varying edits and colour settings helps Retold’s content to stand out, creating a diverse and aesthetically pleasing feed.

LIKES: 617 COMMENTS: 50 ENGAGEMENT RATE: 1.779%

The captions engage with the target audience and followers, asking questions and building a relationship between viewer and business. The caption offers style tips which will be attractive to Retold’s followers who feel less confident in styling items and curating outfits. Retold interacts with people who comment, helping to build a community and creates a clear line of communication between business and consumer. The use of #retoldvintage provides consistency within the Instagram feed and Retold’s branding. There is an opportunity to use more hashtags, however the minimal usage represents the simple and straight to the point branding of Retold.

LIKES: 382 COMMENTS: 6 ENGAGEMENT RATE: 1.035% These Instagram posts are promoting Retold’s bridal services, clearly communicated through the white colour scheme. The images show both secondary and primary imagery, showcasing inspiration for the collection. The image of the collection only provides a sneak peak, which leaves the audience intrigued to find out more, as well as ensuring the garments still hold some mistique for customers purchasing the products. These captions are slightly longer, updating consumers on the business and creating a conversation with the reader. Phrases such as ‘thoughtfully hand-selected’ are used to communicate the care and time going into selecting the perfect pieces. The number of comments vary, so Retold could look to ask the reader more questions in the copy to encourage more comments and responses.

LIKES: 469 COMMENTS: 26 ENGAGEMENT RATE: 1.320% 79

LIKES: 393 COMMENTS: 14 ENGAGEMENT RATE: 1.085%

LIKES: 637 COMMENTS: 30 ENGAGEMENT RATE: 1.779%

This Instagram post is providing styling examples and tips to followers, as well as promoting a collection launch.

This post is promoting Retold’s physical presence, its studio in Walthamstow, London. The studio is used primarily for bridal meetings, with the general vintage collections also on show.

Multiple images provide more for the viewer to look at, holding their attention for longer and leaving an impact. The post also communicates the versatility of vintage clothing, encouraging new consumers, helping to build a community and creates a clear line of communication between business and consumer. Retold gives personal opinions and uses personal terms such as ‘loves’ to create a rapport with the audience and show personality. Retold could ask the audience their favourite look to engage them further and increase comments. 80

Having a physical presence provides a way for consumers to see collections and garments in person, however if the audience wish to visit, it’s perhaps more restrictive for those outside of London which makes the target audience of the post more specific. The caption updates the audience, so they are aware of all online and physical manifestations of Retold.

LIKES: 275 COMMENTS: 6 ENGAGEMENT RATE: 0.749%

Both Instagram posts include brand inspiration, giving an insight into the style influences behind Retold and continuing the carefully curated brand aesthetic on the Instagram feed. Inspirations range from old Vogue photoshoots to interior and artwork, showing the potential for Retold to position itself as an online cultural hub and community.

LIKES: 223 COMMENTS: 4 ENGAGEMENT RATE: 0.605%

LIKES: 269 COMMENTS: 27 ENGAGEMENT RATE: 0.789%

LIKES: 466 COMMENTS: 16 ENGAGEMENT RATE: 1.285%

These Instagram posts are showcasing coverage which Retold has received through press outlet Women’s Health, and influencer @sarikathakorlal. Reposting coverage shares positive news about the brand with followers, and shows them where they can see Retold featuring in press. This also helps to show the popularity and create a buzz around the brand, presenting Retold as an on-trend choice. The post about Women’s Health directs the reader to where they can find these featured products. The influencer post uses the #retoldrehomed hashtag, which promotes Retold’s consignment services, where customers can approach Retold to assist in selling vintage items. 82

This Instagram post contains a video of a vintage trench being put on. The post is promoting an upcoming collection drop of trench coats, requested by followers. This clearly communicates that Retold listens to its consumers and the type of product the audience wants. The video helps to keep the audience’s attention for longer than an image, and shows the movement of the product. The caption is quite long and not all consumers will spend time reading the full post, so to avoid missing information the launch date of the collection could be at the top of the post.

LIKES: 414 COMMENTS: 24 ENGAGEMENT RATE: 1.168%

Retold posts numerous Instagram stories on a regular daily basis, helping to create a constant line of communication between brand and consumer. The stories provide some behind the scenes and exclusive previews of collections for upcoming launches, as well as promoting the various physical presences of the brand, such as their studio and pop-up events. The photography features natural lighting and colours which reflect the natural brand aesthetic. 84

Social Media Audit|Facebook Retold has a Facebook page, however it is very inactive in comparison to its Instagram, and the most recent post was from August 2020. As a small brand it is often easier to streamline social media offerings and focus on creating regular evocative content for one channel. Alternatively, Retold could link the platforms to enable a post to appear on both platforms. The photography is simply styled using carefully placed colours and garments to create aesthetically pleasing content.

05 Objectives

PR Objectives 1.

To introduce the collection to press, influencers and public, raising

awareness and promoting vintage and sustainable shopping habits.

To increase website traffic by 25%.

To raise profile and build reputation.

To build on the story-telling element of Retold, creating an engaging

narrative for consumers.

To increase Retold’s Instagram following by 20,000, eight months

post-launch.

To influence the media into a positive response, with at least 10 pieces

of positive media coverage.

Business Objectives 1.

To have a resilient and sustainable business model.

To expand and diversify Retold’s brand offerings, creating a USP

to stand out in the market.

To test and implement new sustainable practices within Retold’s

business, expanding sustainable aspects of Retold.

To increase and diversify Retold’s audience.

To expand Retold’s community, increasing subscribers by 40%

six months after Re-Story.

Achieve a successful collection which sells out.

06 Target Audience

Generation Z

Re-Story is targeted at Generation Z, specifically the older half of the demographic, born between 1995 and 2000. Also known as digital natives, they have little memory of the world before smartphones, with 74% of Gen Z spending free time online (Morgan Blake, 2020). With a Mintel report identifying the generation as increasingly environmentally-conscious, 61% are willing to pay more for products that are produced ethically and sustainably (Morgan Blake, 2020). Gen Z are a sharing generation, growing up with shared services such as Airbnb, and therefore are more likely to shop vintage and second-hand, drawn in by the sustainable benefits and the nostalgia associated with vintage clothing. They respond to social media and influencers, with 85% learning about new products through social media, and 52% trusts social media influencers for product or brand advice (Morgan Blake, 2020). The higher price of the collection may deter consumers, however receiving a commission for sending in clothing for the Re-Story scheme will provide an incentive for the younger target audience to get involved. Following the Covid-19 outbreak and subsequent lockdowns, Mintel identified lonelieness as becoming an increasing concern amongst Gen Z. This provides Retold the opportunity to grow the community, creating the Re-Story collection to help harvest a strong community amongst Retold’s consumers, bringing like-minded people together. 92

‘52% of Gen-Z trusts social media influencers for product or brand advice’. McKinsey & Company. 93

Generation Y Re-Story will be largely targeted at Generation Y (millennials), typically born between 1980 to 1994. Unlike other generations they value experiences highly, with half of millennials preferring to spend on experiences rather than material goods (Marketing Expertus, 2020). This provides brands an opportunity to create experiential shopping, adding a story element to attract customers and creating a journey. According to Deloitte, 1 in 4 millennial customers are willing to pay more to receive a personalised product, showing an increasing demand for unique or personalised apparel and accessories (Marketing Expertus, 2020). Re-Story creates one-off products which will allow consumers to stand out in a time of oversaturation. Millennials also shop online often, with 63% using social media to stay updated on their favourite brands (BCG, 2020), confirming that Instagram is an appropriate platform for Retold to be utilising. Typically Generation Y have more disposable income and higher budgets to spend on non-essential items including clothing.

Marketing Profs, 2019. 95

Generation X With the collection catering to such a wide range of people, Re-story will also target generation X, typically born from 1970 to 1980. They are sceptical about marketing tactics (Sales Floor, 2020), so transparency and simple marketing is key to attract this generation. They are technologically engaged although, digitally, email is one of the best channels for reaching out to this generation (Sales Floor, 2020). Due to busy schedules and adult responsibilities, their technology habits are limited (Mintel, 2019), with evenings providing some downtime to browse online and respond to emails. Vintage clothing will offer a nostalgic effect, reminding this generation of their childhood and families.

GWI, 2020. 97

Target Persona Jade 22 year old university student studying fashion in Manchester. Sells clothes on Depop to gain more disposable income to spend on clothing. Most disposable income is spent on fashion. Enjoys scouring grandparents’ house for vintage gems which can be sold. Loves the history and nostalgia attached to vintage clothing. Enjoys how unique upcycled and vintage clothing is, and loves to post statement pieces on her Instagram account. Is very aware of sustainability issues through University course and personal interests, avoids high street shops and fast fashion. She enjoys spending time on her phone and social media, keeping up to date with influencer content and brands offerings.

Maya

Lily

45, florist living in Brighton. 32 years old, working as a PR manager in London. Looking to rehome garments which no longer fit or aren’t wearable, after a clear out Goes to lots of events such as weddings, and enjoys sourcing statement

during lockdown.

clothing that no one else in the room will have. Fast fashion doesn’t represent her style, Lily enjoys quirky pieces which have history and Happy to spend more money on quality items which will last a lifetime.

a story. Wants to promote sustainable practices to own children

Following a promotion, Maya now has more disposable income to spend,

Only spends a couple of hours each evening online due to busy work schedule. Enjoys

deciding to make changes to shop more sustainably, such as shopping

chatting to like-minded people online and hearing recommendations, but hates the

from local independent sellers and avoiding large retailers.

constant adverts and over-saturation of social media. Follows a select few brands who are transparent and she feels she can trust.

Consumer Incentive There are a number of incentives which would attract the target audience to Re-Story and result in a successful launch and collection. These factors cater to a broad target market, expanding Retold’s reach, engagement and customer base, with the goal of creating a community of like-minded consumers. These factors include: Opportunity to generate income by selling unwanted garments through a simple process. The collection tackles waste, which is a huge issue in the fashion industry. Shopping the collection helps consumers to practice thoughtful consumption. The transparency of the garment and collection journey reassures consumers that the sustainable ethos and practices of Retold are authentic. The opportunity to own unique one-off garments. The collection contains numerous sought-after designers including Burberry. The collection is durable and made to last, the consumer knows they are making a long-term purchase. Shop the collection to be part of Retold’s community and support a small business. The nostalgia associated with vintage clothing. 100

101

102

07 Strategy and Tactics

103

Rationale

Why is Re-Story needed? With the research highlighting the magnitude of the problem of waste in the fashion industry, Re-Story would help to tackle waste, whilst giving fabrics and garments a new lease of life. The collection would also help to educate consumers on the issue, promoting circular consumption. The vintage market is rapidly expanding, creating a competitive market which requires Retold to experiment with new ideas to stand out from competitors. Re-Story would allow Retold to stand out from competitors and hold a position as a trailblazer in the market. Including Retold’s subscribers on the project helps to create a close-knit community of Retold’s followers, creating loyal customers. The collection would clearly communicate the transparency and authenticity of Retold, in a time of greenwashing and oversaturation, and this honesty would be attractive to the target audience.

104

105

SWOT Analysis

Re-Story will increase Retold’s customer reach and brand awareness through collaboration, immersive projects and increased social content.

Minimal physical presence as the event is also virtual, however this just enforces the authentic sustainable values of Retold.

Retold are able to test sustainable practices using Layer’s resources and expertise to ensure a successful outcome.

The deadstock fabric is limited so can’t reproduce popular items.

Creating unique garments which reflect the brand, are sustainable and stylish. Reducing waste in the fashion industry and promoting conscious consumption. The story-telling aspect helps to attract consumers and keep their attention. Strengthening and growing business through expanding offerings.

106

To promote and encourage sustainable shopping habits. For Retold to expand business to stand out in the vintage market.

The quality of the deadstock material can often be unkown. However, Offset Warehouse worked carefully to test the quality of the fabric to ensure it met Retold’s standards.

For Layer to enter the vintage market (first client in the market).

Other competitors.

Opportunity for positive press coverage to increase brand reputation.

Possibility of negative press coverage.

For consumers to get involved and become emotionally invested in the brand, serving as a loyal customer.

Tax on international customers shipping may deter some consumers from purchasing from the Re-Story collection.

To expand customer demographic, through the opportunity to sell vintage garments to Retold, through a quick hassle-free process. Increase Instagram followers and Retold subscribers. 107

Marketing Mix Product

Price

Re-Story, Retold and Layer’s collection is the product, providing customers with one-off vintage garments which have been upcycled using deadstock fabric; reducing waste and promoting sustainable shopping habits. Consumers would purchase the product through Retold’s website, and there will be extensive digital and physical promotion to increase awareness of the collection.

The price of the collection will vary for each product, taking into consideration the estimated original retail price of the garment, the cost of the deadstock fabric and the extent of upcycling carried out on the garment.

The collection is available in a range of sizes from 6 to 20. Vintage garments are often limited to smaller sizes, however due to the upcycling nature of the project garments were re-sized to create a wide range of sizes. A neutral colour palette was constant throughout the collection to match the aesthetic of the brand, which is a key factor in people visiting the brand. The deadstock fabric provides a pop of colour which is easy to style and makes it stand out against other vintage clothes on offer in the market. The products need to be good quality and built to last to meet the consumers needs, and a wearable style which can be elevated for more special occasions.

108

The production, campaign and promotional costs will also need to be factored into the price of the collection. Due to the exclusivity of the collection and the one-off nature of the garments, the collection will be priced slightly higher than it normally would, but still lower than prices of competitors including 1/OFF.

Process

People

The purpose of this collection is the test and implement practices into Retold’s business to create Re-Story as a regular collection within Retold’s business offerings.

The more people that are involved in the journey of product creation means more promotion on social media, such as the designer and Layer. All people involved hold the same sustainable values, helping to clearly communicate the ethos of the collection.

Layer will assist in ensuring processes are streamlined and as efficient as possible, sticking to a timeline which takes into consideration public

It is vital that Retold connects with their consumers and shows a clear understanding of what they want,

announcements to consumers and subscribers to update on collection info, and the curation of the products, such as sourcing the deadstock fabric and second-hand garments.

to keep a strong and loyal customer base. Including Retold’s subscribers in the collection will help to do this, providing a call to action to get involved and become an active member of the Retold community.

109

Promotion

Place

The promotion of Re-Story includes advertising through print media, internet advertisements and physical promotion of campaign posters in locations such as vintage markets and train stations to raise awareness.

The collection will be sold exclusively on Retold’s website, as with all other collections. However, it will be easily accessible through Retold and Layer’s Instagram profiles which will be a central component of the promotional aspect of the campaign to increase awareness, using the ‘Shop Now’ feature of the app.

Other promotions include social media content, paid influencer marketing, a podcast feature, the consumer and press event, and word of mouth. The best time to promote Re-Story to the tagret audience on social media is in the evening, when consumers have finished work, studying or looking after their family, and have some personal time to relax. A press release will be digitally sent to press to make them aware of Re-Story and the launch, with the aim of receiving positive press coverage to raise awareness.

110

Offline promotion includes print press coverage, campaign posters and a lookbook. The event launch will be an online promotion, catering to consumers and press. With Covid-19 increasing online shopping, physical presence isn’t essential, with Retold having such a large and loyal following online. Retold has a studio where they hold meetings and fittings, with bridal and regular collections on display. A selection of garments from the collection will be kept there on rails for people to browse, and there will be some physical lookbooks present to explain the collection. Located in London.

111

PESO Analysis Paid: Influencer marketing Sponsored Instagram posts Podcast appearance

Earned: Physical and digital press coverage Influencer content Sustainable bloggers

Shared: Owned: #yourstoryretold Website Instagram account Instagram account Customer and influencer coverage Emails Subscriber posts Lookbook Campaign imagery and materials 112

113

Collection Process|Sourcing Clothing

The vintage pieces will be carefully selected by Retold, with Retold’s subscribers having the opportunity to send in any vintage garments which they no longer wear or need upcycling, to be used in the collection. This increases the sense of community and helps to involve consumers in the journey of the collaboration, as well as helping to restore vintage garments to their former glory, giving them a new lease of life. This will also attract a wider demographic of customers, as this scheme will allow consumers to receive a small payment for the garment they provide to be upcycled. Consumers will be made aware of this scheme through a subscribers email, Instagram and website content. Images of potential garments would be sent in for Clare from Retold to review, to ensure the garments used are in line with Retold’s aesthetic, and what the customers are expecting. Those whose garments are selected will be heavily involved in the curation process, and their stories will be documented in the collection’s lookbook, which will be available to view online using a subscriber password, as well as printed physically for the press box and attendees of the consumer launch event. There will also be printed copies at Retold’s studio, for customers to browse through during appointments. Involving consumers will help to spread awareness of the collection launch, as those involved will be sharing the promotional materials and posts o social media, expanding interest and encouraging others to become involved. 114

115

Collection Process|Sourcing Fabric Offset Warehouse, on Layer’s team of specialist advisers, will assist in sourcing the deadstock fabric to upcycle the vintage garments. Offset Warehouse is a social business that brings together a huge range of sustainable fabrics and haberdashery, catering to a wide range of textile needs including fashion and interiors. Fabrics are hand picked by a Master designer and they offer a range of quantities from one metre to larger wholesale quantities. Deadstock fabric comes in limitied quantities, so this must be considered when selecting an appropriate fabric to ensure there is sufficient fabric for the collection. It’s important for Retold’s customers that the fabric is of a good quality, as customers will purchase them knowing they will be durable and long-lasting, making them a sustainable purchase which won’t be worn once. Colour and pattern will also be taken into consideration when selecting a deadstock fabric to ensure it suits Retold’s aesthetic that it is so well known for, as well as ensuring it is vintage fabric to reflect the brand.

116

Collection Process|Upcycling Process

The garments will be upcycled with the assistance of Bethany Williams, who is a sustainable fashion designer, humanitarian and artist. She has created long-standing partnerships with local grassroots organisations including The Magpie Project, and she is enabling a network of creative hubs to grow. She uses a range of waste materials to create unique pieces, including book waste and reclaimed fabric. She also works as a consultant for Kering and Layer, providing expertise on sustainable fashion design. Design updates will be provided to create anticipation for the launch, and Bethany Williams will also provide updates and promote the collection on her social channels, which will help to expand Retold’s audience. 117

118

Tactics | Subscriber Email Promoting Launch Retold’s subscribers will be emailed an exclusive newsletter informing them of Re-Story and its launch. This will help to increase awareness amongst the older target market, who respond well to emails and may miss some social media posts.

119

Tactics | Promoting Consumer Event

To spread awareness of the consumer event and increase interest, Retold will promote the event on their Instagram as well as through subscriber emails, to ensure the information reaches a all target audiences. The audience must sign up to be a retold subscriber to be eligible for the consumer event, which provides an incentive for consumers to sign up and become loyal Retold customers.

120

121

Tactics | Layer’s Website

The landing page on Layer’s website will promote Re-Story and the collaboration throughout the duration of the project and launch of the collection. This will help to spread awareness amongst Layer’s audience, expanding Retold’s reach. The website content will include key dates and advertise the launch event, directing audience to click through to Retold’s website to find out more, increasing and encouraging Retold’s website traffic. Updates will be shared showing project updates and work in progress to emphasise the transparency and journey element of the partnership. This will also help to advertise Layer’s business offerings, as potential clients will be able to see the process through which Retold has gone. 122

123

Tactics | Retold’s Website In the run-up to the collection release, Retold’s website landing page will be dedicated to Re-Story’s launch, promoting, increasing awareness and anticipation for the launch. There will be a description of the collection and why the partnership began. The burnt red of the collection will be included in the website colour scheme during the promotion of the collection, to add further impact. The user will be directed to get involved by subscribing to Retold, if they haven’t already, to ensure exclusive access to the event, and up to date news on the release and curation journey.

124

125

Tactics | Press Release A digital press release will be sent out to members of press from both Retold and Layer’s press database to announce the launch of the collection, providing all the details necessary for media outlets to report on the launch. The release will be sent via email and will promote the collection to the media, increasing the chances of positive media coverage and spreading awareness of Re-Story. The press release will aid in the promotion of Re-Story through media and news outlets, with the opportunity to receive both digital and print coverage, spreading Re-Story’s message and increasing reach.

126

127

128

Tactics | Lookbook

The lookbook will be included in the press and consumer boxes at both virtual events. There will also be physical copies available in Retold’s studio, which is used for general appointments and bridal meetings. The lookbook will also be available on Retold’s website for subscribers to view using an exclusive password. This will help to create a visual buzz around the collection with both press and consumers, emphasising the story element. Having the subscribers involved in the lookbook and collection helps to harvest and develop Retold’s community, creating loyal consumers who will recommend Retold and promote the brand using word-of-mouth. 129

Tactics | Poster

Re-Story’s campaign poster will be visible both physically and online, with the purpose of spreading awareness of Re-Story and directing the audience to Retold’s website. The poster will be visible at antique and vintage markets across the country in the run-up to the launch, as well as on Instagram through sponsored posts to expand audience reach. The poster will also be in Retold’s physical studio, available for appointment attendees to view. Retold and Layer will also share the poster on Instagram and their websites, with Retold emailing it to subscribers to increase the desire and interest surrounding the launch. The poster will be sent to members of press along with a number of ecommerce and editorial shots with the goal of receiving positive media coverage.

130

retoldvintage.com

#yourstoryretold

Re-Story

Timeless pieces encapsulating the essence of vintage through restored fabrics and contemporary styles. 131

Tactics |Clothing Tags

A clothing tag made from recycled paper will be attached to each Re-Story garment. The label features the campaign hashtag #yourstoryretold, to encourage the consumer to post on social media using the hashtag to create a buzz around the collection and partnership. Each tag will be individual, detailing the garment story. It will identify the original designer of the product, the previous owner who sold the garment through the Re-Story project, the history of the deadstock fabric used to upcycle the garment, and the designer who upcycled the garment. This demonstrates total transparency and authenticity as a brand which is something the research identified as attractive to consumers in an era of greenwashing. It also communicates the story of the garment which is a focus for Retold and activates the nostalgia associated with vintage clothing. 132

133

134

Tactics | Social Media Campaign

As Re-Story’s target market spend time on social media, a hashtag called #yourstoryretold will be associated with the campaign to enable the audience to recognise when a post is relating to it. The # is a call to action directed at the consumer, encouraging consumers to get involved and help Retold to retell and resell vintage garments which are no longer worn. The objective of the hashtag campaign is to aid in expanding Retold’s engagement and audience, using the hashtag to connect consumers and grow a close-knit community. The hashtag will be used on all posts, emails and website content relating to the collection concept, and there will be a story highlight on Instagram of all the Re-Story related posts saved in one place. Five Instagram influencers will also be included in the #yourstoryretold campaign. Through written and spoken direction, consumers will be encouraged to use the # when posting collection content, to create a buzz around the collection. In addition, press and consumers attending the virtual launch event will be encouraged to document the event using the hashtag, to create awareness of the collection.

135

Tactics|Instagram Influencers Influencer marketing is a key technique to expand reach and increase brand coverage, creating excitement around Retold. Five influencers will be involved in Re-Story’s launch to help promote it further, increasing paid media. The influencers involved will be part of Retold’s existing audience and advocates for sustainable and vintage fashion, with a following of likeminded people and potential customers for Retold. It is important to select influencers who will represent the brand in an appropriate way and reflect Retold’s aesthetic. These influencers will attend the virtual press event, and will document the event using the hashtag #yourstoryretold and five Instagram stories. The influencers will then post a story and grid post about the collection, promoting it to their followers. Retold will then be able to repost these posts, promoting positive coverage and increasing brand appeal. They will be permanently saved to a story highlight of Re-Story on Retold’s profile for consumers and new customers to see. The proposed influencers have a wide-ranging follower count, and the payment for each influencer will reflect that. Utilising both micro-influencers and influencers with larger followings helps to reach a wider audience.

136

137

Tactics | Retold’s Instagram Posts Retold will promote Re-Story using an opti-channelled approach, through the brand’s Instagram profile, creating a community hub. A range of content will be posted to promote the launch to maximise impact, including stories and grid posts of promotional materials created by Layer, including collage, photography, graphics and video. Retold will utilise Instagram’s sponsored posts feature, increasing paid media to extend reach and awareness of the brand and partnership, with the aim of increasing Retold’s following and community on Instagram. From following on Instagram, consumers would then be encouraged to become a subscriber which increases loyal customers and helps the brand to grow. This will be particularly helpful in promoting Retold to a younger audience, who spend considerable time on social media. Retold will post daily in the run up to the collection launch, sharing sneak previews of the stories, fabric and garments to build excitement and keep a constant line of communication about Re-Story. Grid posts will be further promoted on Retold and Layer’s stories, and Retold’s stories will feature behind-the-scenes content from the lookbook shoots and fun personal outtakes.

138

139

140

141

Tactics | Layer’s Instagram Posts Layer will share Retold’s Instagram posts and stories promoting ReStory and the collection launch onto their Instagram profile. Layer will also post grid posts and stories updating followers on the stages of the project, showing upcycling in progress and sneak previews to generate anticipation. As well as giving updates on sustainable practices and implementation of the project. The posts will direct the reader to Retold to find out more, increasing Retold’s online traffic for both their Instagram profile and website. These posts will be viewed by a range of people, including press, consumers, sustainability advocates and brands who are considering working with Layer.

142

143

Tactics | Event Invite A digital invite to the virtual press and influencer event will be sent out via email, to be more sustainable. The invite will direct the recipient to RSVP, and will direct them to the press release for more information. The design of the invitation is simple and mirrors Retold’s brand aesthetic, giving a preview of the fabric to entice the reader. A short summary of the collection will be included in the email to excite the recipient and encourage them to attend the event and find out more. The event will take place on the 20th April 2022 at 7pm until 8:30pm. Follow up emails will be sent to confirm attendance and obtain address details to send out the press boxes in the run-up to the event.

144

145

Tactics | Vir tual Event Guestlist

The guestlist of 30 for the virtual press and influencer event to celebrate the launch of Re-Story includes supporters of Retold, as well as target press, including Vogue. A cross section of positions are invited to increase attendance and awareness across a wider demographic. Many of the press invited have a popular Instagram following, increasing shared and earned promotion. The press outlets selected have a national and some international following, and have a focus on either fashion or sustainability, communicating to a broad audience. Influencers involved in the campaign and supporters of the brand are also included, to increase social content produced during the event. 146

147

Tactics | Vir tual Press Event The press and influencer event to promote the launch of Re-Story will take place on 20th April 2022 via Zoom from 7pm to 8:30pm. The event will take place during the evening and will only be 90 minutes, taking into consideration the busy schedules of the members of press attending the event. The event will have a sustainable focus and will promote sustainable practices such as sewing, and repurposing items to avoid waste. The event will be virtual to reduce costs and encourage ethical choices, as a physical event creates increased cost and environmental damage. Key features of event: Easy interactive hand-sewing workshop enables attendees to create a personalised outcome, providing a physical reminder of the event. Raise awareness about fashion industry waste and sustainable practices. Press box which features attractive items to enhance the event experience and feature other sustainable brands Promotional materials provided to increase awareness and understanding of collection. Time for questions to involve the audience.

148

Tactics | Event Journey Step 1: Press/Influencers receive invite. Step 2: Respond to invite Step 3: Receive press box days before event (gives time to look at box contents before event) Step 4: Contents of box can be used during event and inform about the collection. Step 5: Introduction from Retold’s founder Clare, and Layer spokesperson – giving a

background on how the collaboration came about, and information about both brands.

Step 6: Layer’s designer and Clare talk through the collection and production journey, design,

how the fabric was sourced, where it came from and the benefits of using deadstock

fabric. Step 7: Attendees then carry out hand sewing activity using deadstock fabric, instructed by

designer of collection creating a mini money purse.

Step 8: Encouraged to post final result onto Instagram using hashtag #yourstoryretold Step 9: Time for questions at the end

149

Tactics | Press Box The press box for the influencer and press virtual event will also be replicated for the consumer event. Once attendees confirm attendance, the box will be sent to their address in the days leading up to the event. The box will be made using recycled materials, decorated using deadstock fabric from the collection, and ensuring all deadstock fabric is used and the project isn’t creating more waste. The fabric and consistent branding and burnt red colour scheme helps to keep Re-Story and Retold recognisable and consistent. The contents of the box includes promotional materials to clearly communicate ReStory, as well as items to use during the event and workshop, and gifts to enhance the user experience and promote sustainable consumption and practices. The recipient is encouraged to post the box and its contents online, as well as the event, using the hashtag #yourstoryretold, to create interest around Re-Story during its launch period.

The contents of the box includes: Re-Story Lookbook Tips for Sustainable Living by Layer Mini Hand Sewing Kit for Workshop Deadstock fabric ready to use in workshop Recycled candle from The Recycled Candle Company Retold Sustainable Laundry Bag Dried Flowers from Appreciation Project A small card explaining the collaboration, with seeds in the card which can be planted and will grow.

150

151

152

153

154

Press box products from external brands: A business card for each company will be included in the box. Each event attendee will receive a candle from The Recycled Candle Company. The candle has a vintage scent and uses the burnt red from the colour scheme of the collection to continue a carefully branded campaign. The candles are made from waste wax which would otherwise end up in landfill. The company collects unwanted candles, and then creates naturally scented candles in a variety of shapes. The candle pictured is the Rose and Oud heart candle. A bunch of dried flowers will be provided from Appreciation Project. The Appreciation Project are a family run business in Kent, focusing on creating economical and sustainable dried flower gifts. Dried and preserved flowers are a sustainable way to enjoy flowers and extend their life, lasting a year. The colours of the flowers will match the colour scheme of Re-Story.

155

156

8 Logistics

157

Timeline|pre -launch activit y 22nd April 2021

September 2021

February 2022

March 2022

Layer and Retold begin partnership.

Deadstock fabric sourced and

Previous owners of garments in the

Print all physical promotional

Promoted on Instagram profiles

begin working with designers

collection submit their memories to

materials and gather press box

and website.

to create collection.

go in the lookbook.

contents.

August 2021 Retold asks consumers to send in vintage garments via socials and email.

158

February 2022

Lookbook shoot and

Show progress of collaboration

website photography.

on Instagram to attract customers.

March 2022 Press release emailed out to members of press.

March 2022 March 2022

Instagram content from Layer and

Banners on Layer and Retold’s

Retold promoting launch.

website promoting the launch.

Re-Story highlight is created to document the collection.

March 2022 Email out press and influencer virtual event invite.

March 2022 Podcast talk on BBC Sounds Fashion Fix with Charli Howard to promote launch.

consumer

April 2022

Ensure all invitees have RSVP’d

Send out consumer

and provided their address to

event boxes.

send press box.

April 2022

March 2022 Advertise

April 2022

event,

must be subscribed to sign up.

Physical lookbooks in Retold’s studio and campaign posters present in

April 2022 Send out press boxes.

digital and physical locations.

159

Timeline|launch activit y

20th April 2022

24th April 2022

April 2022

Press and influencer

Consumer virtual workshop to

Consumers encouraged to post

Instagram

virtual event.

celebrate launch of Re-Story.

using hashtag, posts are saved to a

deadstock creations from press,

highlight and reposted by Retold.

influencer and consumer workshop.

22nd April 2022 Re-Story collection goes live on Retold’s website at 7pm.

April 2022

Paid influencer content on

Newsletter sent to subcribers

Instagram to promote Re-

rounding up event.

Story and #yourstoryretold.

160

post

showing

best

Timeline|post-launch activit y

June 2022 April 2022 onwards

Evaluate success of campaign:

Retold reposts any coverage from

Sales

influencers, customers and press.

Coverage Engagement and Reach

July 2022

April 2022 onwards

June 2022 onwards

Card arrives with purchases explaing

Work with Layer to implement Re-

Re-Story and encouraging consumers

Story as a regular aspect of Retold’s

to use the Re-Story hashtag.

business

offerings,

with

regular

meetings and reviews to stay on track.

Consider moving Re-Story onto HURR rental platform to make the collection accessible to younger audiences and to promote circular fashion.

161

Costs

162

163

164

Retold, 2020.

9 Measuring Success & The Future

165

166

Retold, 2020.

Measuring Success Re-Story will be measured against the project’s objectives to determine its success, assessing a number of areas to provide an in-depth understanding of the success or otherwise of the collection and partnership. As one of Retold’s main aims was to increase the community of the brand, this will be regarded as an important factor. The success of the campaign can be measured using the following: Website and Instagram traffic Sales Positive press coverage. New Instagram followers New subscribers

Indicators of success: A 40% increase in number of Retold’s subscribers following Re-Story. Gain 20,000 more Instagram followers following partnership and launch (8 months post-launch. Regular consumer and influencer coverage using #yourstoryretold hashtag. An increase in website traffic of 25%. At least 10 pieces of positive press coverage surrounding Re-Story. Collection sells out.

167

Future Considerations

An intention for the partnership between Layer and Retold was to test sustainable practices and work towards implementing these into Retold’s regular business strategy. Following a successful launch, Layer will work with Retold to put strategies and manufacturing processes in place to enable Retold to continue Re-Story as a regular collection. This will help to increase and expand the consignment service Retold already operates, and will help to create unique garments and set Retold apart from its competitors, during a time when vintage fashion market is increasing and there is a need to stand out. As Retold has recently joined HURR, the pieces from the Re-Story collection could move onto the HURR rental platform. This would appeal to Retold’s younger audience further due to the reduction in cost, as well as other target consumers who have a lower income or who want to shop more sustainably. It also fits the ethos of Retold’s brand, as renting clothing creates an interesting and circular journey for a garment, adding to the story of the garment, and promoting conscious consumption.

168

169

10 Reference List

170

Image Reference List Another Matinee, n.d. Another Matinee. [image] Available at: <https://www.anothermatinee.com/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Another Matinee, 2021. Another Matinee Instagram. [image] Available at: <https://www.instagram.com/anothermatinee/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Atijo Store, 2021. Atijo Store Instagram. [image] Available at: <https://www.instagram.com/atijostore/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Beer, C., 2020. Using retail attitudes to distinguish Gen Z from millennials. [image] Available at: <https://blog.gwi.com/chart-of-theweek/distinguishing-gen-z-from-millennials/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Bellantoni. N.d. Re·Nu Project [Image]. Available at: < https://www.bellantoni.ca/renu-project> [Accessed 19 May 2021] Brown, H., 2020. New Look founder invests in rental platform. [image] Available at: <https://www.drapersonline.com/news/new-lookfounder-invests-in-rental-platform> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Business of Fashion, n.d. Bethany Williams. [image] Available at: <https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/bethanywilliams-1> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Business of Fashion, 2021. Sanjeev Bahl [Image]. Available at: <https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/sanjeevbahl> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Chan, E., 2020. Upcycling Is The Biggest Trend In Fashion Right Now [Image]. Available at: <https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/ upcycling-trend-ss21> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Chitrakorn, K, 2020. Why luxury fashion brands should offer resale [Image]. Available at: <https://www.voguebusiness.com/ sustainability/should-luxury-fashion-brands-offer-resale-richard-mille-mark-cross-do> [Accessed 19 May 2021].

171

Denbow, R., 2017. EXPERIMENTING WITH NATURAL DYES [Image]. Available at: <https://abeautifulmess.com/experimentingwith-natural-dyes/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Design for Longevity. Offset Warehouse: Sustainable Textiles and Haberdashery [Image]. Available at: <https://designforlongevity. com/articles/offset-warehouse-sustainable-textiles-and-haberdashery> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Flint Roberts, L., 2021. Lila Flint Roberts Instagram. [image] Available at: <https://www.instagram.com/lilaflintroberts/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Gallant., 2020. The 4 Most Popular Muslin Bag Sizes for packaging [Image]. Available at: <https://www.gallantintl.com/blogs/ the-4-most-popular-muslin-bag-sizes> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Garcia, J., 2021. Jenny Garcia Instagram. [image] Available at: <https://www.instagram.com/jennysuegarcia/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Global Fashion Agenda. Meet the team - Morten Lehmann [Image]. Available at: <https://www.globalfashionagenda.com/ teammember/morten-lehmann/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Holland, O., 2020. Can China look past counterfeits and superstition in its burgeoning second-hand fashion market? [Image]. Available at: <https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/china-second-hand-fashion-sept/index.html> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Intent Journal. Clare Press [Image]. Available at: <https://www.intentjournal.com/features/clare-press/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Montgomery, J., 2020. This Vintage Collection Always Sell Out Instantly—and I Got a First Look. [image] Available at: <https://www. whowhatwear.co.uk/who-what-wear-curates-retold-vintage> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Murray, D., 2021. Vintage Clothing Online: The 48 Best Vintage Stores You Can Shop On The Internet. [image] Available at: <https:// www.elle.com/uk/fashion/g31174216/vintage-clothing-online/> [Accessed 19 May 2021].

172

Nanji, A., 2019. Less Facebook, More Snapchat: How Social Media Habits Vary Among Generations. [image] Available at: <https://www.marketingprofs.com/charts/2019/42072/how-social-media-habits-vary-among-generations> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Regenerative Rising., 2018. Dr. Helen Crowley [Image]. Available at: <https://regenerativerising.org/dr-helen-crowley/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Retold Vintage., 2021. Always love looking through the camera roll this time of year and remembering what vintage gems were found [Image]. Available at: <https://www.instagram.com/p/CJVs4ARAzTc/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Retold Vintage, 2021. Retold Vintage Instagram. [image] Available at: <https://www.instagram.com/retold_vintage/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Simpson, K., 2018. BUYERARCHY OF NEEDS – SARAH LAZAROVIC [Image]. Available at: <https://thegreenhubonline. com/2018/01/04/5-tips-for-becoming-a-more-conscious-consumer/buyerarchy-of-needs-sarah-lazarovic/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Smith, E., n.d. BEST ONLINE VINTAGE CLOTHES STORES. [image] Available at: <https://www.countryandtownhouse.co.uk/ style/online-vintage-clothes-stores/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Sourcing Journal, 2019. The Loop Can’t Close Until Everyone Accepts Responsibility. [image] Available at: <https://sourcingjournal. com/topics/sustainability/applied-dna-worn-again-textile-recycling-sustainability-traceability-178569/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Spellings, S., 2019. The Designer Who Works Pearls Into Almost Everything. [image] Available at: <https://www.thecut. com/2019/09/tastemakers-mother-of-pearl-designer-amy-powney.html> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. The Pretty Planeteer. How Much Waste Does the Fashion Industry Produce? [Image]. Available at: <https://theprettyplaneteer. com/fashion-industry-waste/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. 173

The Vintage Studio, n.d. The Vintage Studio. [image] Available at: <https://www.thevintagestudio.co.uk/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. The Vintage Studio, 2021. The Vintage Studio Instagram. [image] Available at: <https://www.instagram. com/the.vintagestudio/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. University of Delaware. MARSHA DICKSON [Image]. Available at: <https://www.udel.edu/faculty-staff/ experts/marsha-dickson/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Vogue Business Team., 2020. Fashion’s circular economy could be worth $5 trillion [Image]. Available at: <https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/fashions-circular-economy-could-be-worth-5-trillion> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. 1/OFF Paris, n.d. 1/OFF Paris (re)made. [image] Available at: <https://www.1offparis.com/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. 1/OFF Paris, 2021. 1/OFF Paris Instagram. [image] Available at: <https://www.instagram.com/1offparis/> [Accessed 19 May 2021].

174

Reference List Arnett, G., 2020. Brexit is here. What’s next for fashion?. [online] Vogue Business. Available at: <https://www.voguebusiness. com/companies/brexit-is-here-what-next-for-fashion-luxury-eu-uk-tariffs> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. BBC News. 2021. Brexit: UK fashion industry warns it faces threat to survival. [online] Available at: <https://www.bbc.co.uk/ news/business-55894914> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Beall, A., 2020. Why clothes are so hard to recycle. [online] BBC.com. Available at: <https://www.bbc.com/future/ article/20200710-why-clothes-are-so-hard-to-recycle> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Business Reporter. 2021. The changing shopping habits of UK consumers - Business Reporter. [online] Available at: <https:// business-reporter.co.uk/2020/07/02/the-changing-shopping-habits-of-uk-consumers/#:~:text=Up%20to%2017.2%20 million%20UK,of%20the%20COVID%2D19%20pandemic.&text=Consumers%20who%20perceive%20the%20risk,habits%20 in%20the%20long%2Dterm> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. CB Insights Research. 2021. The Future of Fashion: Technology & the Industry. [online] Available at: <https://www.cbinsights.com/ research/fashion-tech-future-trends/#mfg> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Chan, E., 2020. Upcycling Is The Biggest Trend In Fashion Right Now. [online] British Vogue. Available at: <https://www.vogue. co.uk/fashion/article/upcycling-trend-ss21> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Circular Online. 2020. UK named fourth largest textile waste producer in Europe. [online] Available at: <https://www.circularonline. co.uk/news/uk-named-fourth-largest-textile-waste-producer-in-europe/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Conca, J., 2020. The Coronavirus Accelerates Online’s Destruction Of Brick & Mortar Shopping. [online] Forbes. Available at: <https://www.forbes.com/sites/jamesconca/2020/08/21/the-coronavirus-accelerates-onlines-destruction-of-brick--mortarshopping/?sh=18d123004734> [Accessed 19 May 2021].

175

Jacobs, B., 2020. Why buying vintage clothes is ‘the new luxury’. [online] BBC.com. Available at: <https://www.bbc.com/culture/ article/20201113-why-gen-z-and-millennials-go-wild-for-vintage-clothes> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Kent, S., 2021. How Old Clothes Became Big Business. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: <https://www.businessoffashion.com/ articles/sustainability/how-old-clothes-became-big-business> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Linnard, R., 2018. An ethical decision: fast fashion vs. vintage fashion - Fashion Revolution. [online] Fashion Revolution. Available at: <https:// www.fashionrevolution.org/uk-blog/an-ethical-decision-fast-fashion-vs-vintage-fashion/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Loeb, W., 2019. The Resale Fashion Industry Is Bigger And More Disruptive Than You Think. [online] Forbes. Available at: <https://www. forbes.com/sites/walterloeb/2019/05/15/resale-fashion-industry-bigger-and-more-disruptive-than-you-think/?sh=52278d7b609b> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Macdonald Johnston, F., 2020. 1/Off Paris — the French label making upcycling sexy. [online] Ft.com. Available at: <https://www.ft.com/ content/f8152da2-411d-11ea-bdb5-169ba7be433d> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Marketing Expertus. 2020. Millennial Spending Statistics | Millennial Spending Habits. [online] Available at: <https://www.marketingexpertus. co.uk/blog/millennial-spending-statistics/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. McKinsey & Company, 2020. The State of Fashion 2021. The State of Fashion. London: McKinsey & Company, pp.1-128. Mintel, n.d. UK Technology Habits Of Generation X Market Report. London: Mintel. Morgan, B., 2020. 50 Stats All Marketers Must Know About Gen-Z. [online] Forbes. Available at: <https://www.forbes.com/sites/ blakemorgan/2020/02/28/50-stats-all-marketers-must-know-about-gen-z/?sh=504cf66676d0> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Morgan, B., 2020. The Fashion Industry Is Ready For A Makeover: 4 Changes We’ll See In The Future. [online] Forbes. Available at: <https://www.forbes.com/sites/blakemorgan/2020/12/03/the-fashion-industry-is-ready-for-a-makeover-4-changes-well-see-in-thefuture/?sh=142a7596914a> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. 176

Ratajczak, D., Bona, C., Koslow, L., Frantz, R. and Nadres, B., 2020. How Marketers Can Win with Gen Z and Millennials Post-COVID-19. [online] BCG.com. Available at: <https://www.bcg.com/en-gb/publications/2020/how-marketers-can-win-with-gen-z-millennials-postcovid> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Reports.mintel.com. 2020. Fashion & Sustainability: Inc Impact of COVID-19 - UK - September 2020: Contents. [online] Available at: <https:// reports.mintel.com/display/1042221/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Salesfloor. n.d. How Each Generation Shops in 2020. [online] Available at: <https://salesfloor.net/blog/generations-shopping-habits/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Stanley, J., 2020. adidas, Kering and Stella McCartney Invest in Mushroom-Based Leather Alternative. [online] HYPEBEAST. Available at: <https://hypebeast.com/2020/10/adidas-kering-stella-mccartney-bolt-threads-mylo-mycelium-leather> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Statista. 2020. Topic: Second-hand retail in the United Kingdom (UK). [online] Available at: <https://www.statista.com/topics/4593/ second-hand-retail-in-the-united-kingdom-uk/#dossierSummary> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. The Guardian. 2021. From fashion to farming: how Brexit is hitting Britain’s trade. [online] Available at: <https://www.theguardian.com/ politics/2021/feb/07/from-fashion-to-farming-how-brexit-is-hitting-britains-trade> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Thredup.com. n.d. 2020 Fashion Resale Market and Trend Report. [online] Available at: <https://www.thredup.com/resale/> [Accessed 19 May 2021]. Wightman-Stone, D., 2020. UK’s secondhand market skyrockets in 2020. [online] FashionUnited. Available at: <https://fashionunited.uk/ news/fashion/uk-s-secondhand-market-skyrocket-in-2020/2020090250676> [Accessed 19 May 2021].

177