Gwyneth De Ramos Portfolio

Concept Identit ven Identit Wo //Concept yy ven Wo

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E E

C C

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SS23 SS23

A A

Filipina muse with A Filipina muse with dual identity dual identity

Modern Maria Clara Modern Maria Clara B Filipino for B Filipino idealideal for women women

C Weaving details C Weaving details D Colour inspiration D Colour inspiration E Barong Tagalog with E Barong Tagalogdetails with embroidery embroidery details

F Baro’t SayaSayaF Baro’t Traditional Traditional Filipiniana Filipiniana

G Barrel skirt & butterfly G Barrel skirt & butterfly sleeve silhouette sleeve silhouette

B B

G G

This is a Spring Summer This collection is a Spring 2023 inspiredSummer by 2023 collection inspired the traditional Filipiniana by the from traditional Filipiniana gowns the Philippines from heritage the Philippines andgowns the mixed of my and the mixed heritage of my muse, as well as my personal muse, heritage as well as personal Filipino andmyBritish Filipino heritage and British upbringing. Woven identity upbringing.

Woven celebrates the two culturesidentity by celebrates the two cultures combining Filipino silhouettes by silhouettes andcombining art formsFilipino such as weaving and art forms such as weaving and embroidery with Western and embroidery Western silhouettes and with garments. silhouettes and garments.

A mix of different fabrics A of Filipino different pinapple fabrics suchmix as lace, such as lace, Filipino pinapple fibre, and textured cottons also fibre, and the textured also represent mix cottons of identity. represent the mix ofof delicate, identity.

The inclusion The inclusion delicate, sheer fabrics wereofinspired by sheer fabrics were inspired by the fabrics and techniques used the and techniques used for fabrics the feminine Filipiniana for the feminine clothing and the Filipiniana menswear clothing and the Barong Tagalog. Themenswear collection Barong aims to Tagalog. promote aThe newcollection modern aims to promote a new modern; Filipina feminine ideal Filipina feminine ideal ; opposite from the traditional opposite from the traditional Maria Clara archetype by Maria Clara archetype by being confident and bold, but being and femininity. bold, but similarconfident in its delicate similar in its delicate femininity.

Neutrality

Piña

A

y/Colour ven Identit Wo

Cotton Jacquard

Roberta

B Maria Clara

Sampaguita

Colour

Broderie Anglaise

C

Basket Weave

Fabric

& Fabric

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Filipiniana

A Golden

B C

SS23

Anahaw

D Dual Identity

Woman with Banga (1927), Fruit Vendors (1936) by Fernando Amorsolo

Main Filipino fabric inspired by: Pineapple fibre from pineapple leaf.

Designcenter.ph Barong shirt made from piña fabric. Designcentre. ph

Premium Bridal Mikado Chantilly Lace Delicate White Lace

Guipure lace

Micro Herringbone Twill Chiffon Silk Satin

Black lace

Cotton Organdie

feminine silhouette

large 3d flowers

sheer fabrics Boning support

different textures

Roberta (22) comes from a multi-ethnic background, with her mother growing up in the Philippines and her father growing up in England and thus had a mix of cultures influencing her upbringing.

Dual identity conflict

blended cultures represented

immortalised in a dress

gentle modern Maria Clara feminine kind

pure modest

Bright

submissive

demure

fun quietly powerful

shy Traditional

feminist

delicate

fictional mestiza heroine

Roberta

This collection is for customers like Roberta who are confident & comfortable in their femininity & identity, embracing it in all forms. They don’t let society’s ideals hold them back; instead they pave their own way & identity.

E Modern Filipiniana dress

A Baro’t Saya- (early 18th century- mid 18th century)

D Traje de Mestiza- (18th century-1930s) Embroidery details on shawl & dress.

Long train (saya de cola style).

B

)

Terno

t presen s 0 3 19

(

Embroidery on piña fabric.

B Men’s Barong Tagalog-

(precolonial times-present)

A Tipos del País illustration

by Justiniano Asuncion.

Colonisation by Spain led to conservative & layered style for Filipinas.

B Traditional shirt made from embroidered pi�a fabric. Pi�a is used for both men’s and women’s traditonal dress.

C Mestiza China, 1870s Biblioteca Nacional de Espa�a.

Heavily embroidered lace dress, influenced by Spanish & Western styles with bell/pagoda sleeves & full skirt.

D Ensemble, The Met Museum.

StyleisinfluencedbytheAmerican occupation of the Philippines.Has puffed out butterfly sleeves.

C Maria Clara Dress-

(Late 18th century19th century)

Pineapple fibres are woven to make piña fabric, an indigenous Filipino weave.

E Traditional dress is simplified into one garment.

Butterfly sleeves are stiff and flat.

Storm flap at the back.

Trench coat details

Inspiration for outerwear pieces (look 1 & look 3 designs).

Button strap cuff

Silhouette Inspiration

A

New York Times newspaper article on the barrel skirt emerging in 1917.

B

Weeks Evening Dress, The Met Museum (1918-20). Barrel silhouette. European silhouette combined with Filipiniana.

A

B

Curved lapel collar

Traditional British design

Flap pocket details

Burberry ad for trench coats.

Trench coats became one of Burberry’s iconic garments.

Smithsonian Magazine.

SilhouetteGesture Collage

Made from 12mm boning, rivets & covered with stretch satin.

Embroidered Dress Traje de Mestiza dress (1910) silhouette mixed with barrel skirt (1917).

Testing tiered ruffle skirt & embroidery samples.

Pannier/cage development

Ensemble dress: Baro’t Saya, (early 20th century).

The Metropolitan Museum of Art Butterfly sleeve: Postcard of Filipina girls in Baro’t saya dresses (1930s).

Embroidery inspired by embroidered pi�a lace on dresses.

Final toile & silhouette

A

Final Design B

Mainly inspired by the modern terno dress , the baro’t saya and the traje de mestiza styles. Silhouette is taken from the barrel skirt and traditional butterfly sleeves. Main feature is the embroidery on the bodice and ruffle, tiered skirt inspired by a photograph of my muse.

C

A Oversized butterfly sleeves, ruched side panels for barrel silhouette.

B Asymmetrical dress with draping, tiered skirt & embroidery.

C Terno dress with barrel skirt silhouette, embroidery and ruffled skirt as the main detail.

Romantic & delicate power suit

Trench Jacket & Barrel Skirt Pi�a weaving & embroidery inspired the initial lace check printsample.

Secondary & final samples are actual hand woven fabric strips of lace, fine twill,crepe,bouclisse ribbon&twilltape.

Las Bulaque�a (1895) A Initial trench coat & dress designs. The original look was a long trench coat & a midi dress but I decided a shorter jacket & pencil style skirt would look better. The barrel silhouette would also be more emphasised with this outfit.

Maria Clara dress shawl informs shawl collar.

Pi�a shawl/ Asian Art Museum of San Francicso

Final Design

B Further designs of jacket still have trench coat details & skirt is midi length with weaving panels & a barrel silhouette.

Traditional, British trench coat design by Burberry.

(AD poster).

Trench research is combined with Filipiniana garment research to show dual identitiy & culture.

Research undertaken: trench moulage with butterfly sleeves, collages & sampling .

Final Silhouette & Toile

Cage is needed for structure & is worn under jacket & skirt.

B C C

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B

E

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E A Filipina in Balintawak This is an A/W 2023 collection that explores the The influence of religion and conservatism This is an A/W 2023 collection that explores the The influence of religion and conservatism impact of colonialism of the Philippines by the imposed on Filipina women will be impact of colonialism of the Philippines by the imposed on Filipina women will be Spanish and the Americans through contrasting addressed through looking at religious Spanish and the Americans through contrasting addressed through looking at religious military garments with traditional, feminine statues of Mary and comparing it with the military garments with traditional, feminine statues of Mary and comparing it with the Filipiniana dresses. conservative styles of the dresses from Filipiniana dresses. conservative styles of the dresses from that time period. Draping on the statues that time period. Draping on the statues will be translated as well as the indigenous will be translated as well as the indigenous check design. check design.

B

C

D E

clothing.

A Filipina in Balintawak Militaryc il noftlh uien ngc.es from American and Filipino milita ryM un ii fo rm 9B il ta ry( i1 n8 f9 lu ences from 1902). American and Filipino militaryuniform (1899Layering19a 0n 2d ). draping inspired by statues of the Virgin coloa nn id al draping CMLaaryyer& ing clothing.inspired by statues of the Virgin Mary & colonial A-line/trc alpoetz ein si h gl .houette & oversized sleeves.

D A-line/trapeze silhouette Indigo col reirn sz pe id res dlebey &ou ov si ves.

TiposdelPaísillustration

by JusE tinI in an ogA cu io di oscu on lo rni.nspired by TiposdelPaísillustration

by Justiniano Asuncion.

The inspiration for the colour palette comes from famous paintings

A

Lilac & White Guipure lace

American occupation. The influence of the American colonisation is

Crepe & Embroidered Organza

society, the Spanish colonisation, and rural Philippines during the

B

evident in the renaissance style of the paintings which was popular with American artists.

Purple chiffon White Check Organza Cotton Struggles Poplin Top: Filipino in History

by Carlos Batong Francisco. (1969).

Left: Palay Maiden Panch

by Fernando Handloomed Check Blue Amorsolo. (1920) Middle: Baybalan by Carlos Batong Francisco.

(1953).Anglaise Broderie Right: Girl with Mangoes by Fernando Amorsolo. (1950).

Tartan Cotton Blend Suiting

D c

Padded Double Twill TheinfluenceoftheAmerican colonisation is evident in the renaissance style of the paintings which was popular with American artists.

Inang Bayan

Mabuhay

Independence

Diaphanus Dogtooth Bonded Stretch Wool Viscose

A Palay Maiden by Fernando Amorsolo. (1920) B Filipino Struggles in History by Carlos Batong Francisco. (1969).

C The Virgin of the Immaculate Conception.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art. (18th century).

D Tipos del País illustration by Justiniano Asuncion.

Archipelago

Bansa

Navy Check Organza Jersey Grid Pattern Stretch Smocked Blouse Fabric & Lightweight satin Pink Bouquet

Immaculate

A/W23

Chosen fabric is a mix of wools, thick cotton twills with lace, thin cottons & sheer chiffons & organza as a contrast.

The sheer fabrics are a reference to the fabrics used for traditional Filipino clothes and these will be layered with the heavyweight autumn/winter fabrics.

The Colonial Matriarch/ Colour & Fabric

The inspiration for the colour palette comes from famous Filipino artists, Carlos Batong Francisco andand Fernando Amorsolo. paintingsbyby Filipino artists, Carlos Batong Francisco Fernando Amorsolo. These paintings depict the history of the These paintings depict thethe history of the Philippines: pre-colonial Philippines: pre-colonial society, Spanish colonisation, and rural Philippines during the American occupation.

Look 1: 1: Hooded Hooded Cape Cape Coat, Coat, Look Draped top top & & Lace Lace trousers trousers Draped

Look 2: 2: Draped Draped wrap wrap blouse blouse Look & Layered Layered scallop scallop skirt skirt &

Trapeze/A-line Trapeze/A-line Silhouette Silhouette Research: moulage moulage Research: to inform inform drape, drape, to exaggerated A-line A-line exaggerated skirt.z skirt.z

Lacetrims trims& &check check Lace pattern ttern on on front front & & pa backyoke. yoke. back

Inspired by by drape, drape, lace lace on on traditional traditional Inspired dresses, check check patterns patterns & & military military dededresses, tails (e.g (e.g pockets). pockets). tails Mainly inspired inspired by by the the conservative conservative Mainly style of of colonial colonial women women in in the the style Philippines & & statues statues of of the the Virgin Virgin Philippines Mary with with military military details. details.

Mary Draped Wrap Wrap Blouse Blouse Draped

Cape Coat Coat Cape

Deep indigo indigo colour colour inspiration inspiration & & Deep cape silhouette. cape silhouette.

Tipos del del Pas Pas illustrations: illustrations: Tipos LeftA Damsel Going to to Early Early Left- A Damsel Going Mass (1816-1896) Mass (1816-1896) Right- Espa�ola Espa�ola (1816-1901) (1816-1901) Right-

Draped Top Top Draped

Lace Straight Straight Leg Leg Trousers Trousers Lace

IndigenousFilipino Filipinocheck check Indigenous pattern reinterpreted with pattern reinterpreted with different fabrics fabrics in in the the different samples above. samples above.

Layered Scalloped Scalloped Skirt Skirt Layered

Thi s to t collect he i effo on is ach aS rtle iev pr ss, e th pri is w roma ing/Su nts mm wit n ith T’b hd er fem tic clo oli e coll n t t i h i nin ribe m. I ing Fili abo e t pin o f a A rat r f l o s aa we l m o i io n dra e s a rtis ws ilho Sea, t n with t Pa vers, infl his th cita uen uettes coll Sea. S Aba e first c a imi e n s Fili d’s d a ection fro l p tra aim ar mix pun ino im m the s in of d to w mig t elic o ork ran digen ous ate . ts i nA Fili p me rica ino , an d

B

C E

A

D A

ngs, painti lf. ’s d a b A rse Pacita e with you ald n a rants at hom ate go immig lace to feel s the ultim ns and o n i p i p i l t Fi ga elf ditio he firs bout findin ithin ones th their tra feminine t e k i l Just n is a comfort w hieved wi y able, llectio c ired b mfort this co peace and tribe has a include co work insp bold e li l d ch To fin ing the T’bo llection wil es and pat xed with th o the i s o h s t m r c e e a r s e il t d tte som is sim ity. Th ents, easy lhoue n i h s u c i d m h e com arm e, w elax e ar g fidenc The r workw g patterns. rt with con fo in weav s mix com heir c t n r d e n t t pa ea a S f o e attitud

Sea S/S 2022 Ready-to Wear & Quilting inspiration.

B

Pacita Abad Trapunto Art: LA Liberty (1992).

C

Workwear & Denim inspiration: First Filipino Immigrants to America, the Manongs.

D

T’boli Tribe: T’nalak weaving

E

Denim quilting design inspired by weaving pattern.

Dark indigo denim & white denim, ditsy floral print cottons & broderie anglaise used for main fabrics. Some are also used for quilting & patchwork.

C

A

A mix of printed cottons, denims and broderie anglaise used for quilting or patchwork portions of garments.

B inspired by the back A Colour of Pacita Abad’s trapunto artwork, ‘LA Liberty’ (1992). inspired by the soft pastel B Also colours in Sea’s colour palette.

Sea S/S 2022

C

Blues and whites are taken from the denim within the collection.

Look Look 22- Layered Layered Denim Denim jacket, jacket, Asymmetrical Asymmetrical crop top & Mini skirt. crop top & Mini skirt.

Puff sleeve Puff sleeve&&A-line A-line silhouette silhouette

Look Look 1- Dungarees & Cropped shirt 1- Dungarees & Croppedsmocked smocked shirt Patchwork quilted Patchwork quilted pockets pockets

Layered mini skirt skirt Layered denim denim jacket jacket && mini inspired by moulage & workwear inspired by moulage & workwear garments. floral ditsy ditsy print print garments.Lace Lace&& floral Workwear dungarees & influenced by feminine prints used in Workwear dungarees & shirt influenced by feminine prints used shirt inspired

by Filipino Sea collections. in Sea collections. inspired farmers.by Filipino farmers.

Close of tied shoulder straps Closeupup of tied shoulder & dungaree buckles attached straps & dungaree buckles to sweethearttoneckline & front attached sweetheart patch pocket with flap. neckline & front patch pocket with flap.

Close Close up up of of pointed pointed smocked smocked seam on puffed puffed balloon seam on balloon sleeves. sleeves.

Quilting patterns inspired byweaving.

T’nalak Quilting patterns inspired

by T’nalak weaving.

Quilting on yoke of jacket & top of skirt.

Quilting on yoke of jacket & top of skirt.