Northern Gardener - September/October 2020

MINNESOTA’S HOMEGROWN GARDENING MAGAZINE

Gardener Northern

A MINNESOTA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY PUBLICATION

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020

A BULB FOR FALL

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CHECK OUT SEED LIBRARIES

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Plan Next Year’s Garden

NOW

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U.S. $4.50 Can. $5.50 Display until October 31

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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 l VOLUME 148 l NUMBER 5

Table of Contents 22

38

Two-Timers

Lovely Lemon Balm

Plant these weird and wonderful bulbs for spring and fall beauty.

BY KATHY PURDY

With its fruity fragrance and hardy habits, this humble herb is a garden gift.

BY SAMANTHA JOHNSON

34 Get Going

It’s time to start planning and planting next year’s garden.

BY GAIL BROWN HUDSON

IN EVERY ISSUE 3 Editor’s Note 4 MSHS News: Classes, calendar and more

26 Time for Transformation

A broken pond liner leads to a fabulous garden renovation.

BY DIANE MCGANN

31 Full of Fruit

16 Northern Natives: Anise hyssop

By Beth Stetenfeld 17 Kitchen Garden: Pumpkin plenty

By Samantha Johnson 18 Pollinators: Goldenrod and asters

By Rhonda Fleming Hayes

BY SONI FORSMAN

20 Garden Solutions: Perennial tulips

By Laura Schwarz

Seed saving, sharing builds community of gardeners.

BY MICHELLE BRUHN

14

By Design: Garden guides

By Diane McGann

This small urban garden is jam-packed with flavor.

40 Check Out Seed Libraries

12 DIY: Tree planting pointers

By Eric Johnson

21 Plant to Pick: ‘Blackhawks’ big bluestem

By Debbie Lonnee 44 Northern View: What you don’t see

By Elizabeth Fischer

ABOUT THE COVER: Add hardy hibiscus to spruce up your fall garden. Photo by Gail Brown Hudson

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ABOUT MSHS

Welcome

to the fall issue of northern gardener, a

publication of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society (MSHS). Each issue, we strive to engage, inform and inspire northern gardeners growing in USDA Zones 3, 4 and 5. You’ll find articles from experienced gardeners and experts from across our region, as well as information about upcoming classes and webinars, and links to online resources on our website, northerngardener.org.

Established in 1866, MSHS is a nonprofit, educational and charitable organization and one of the nation’s longest-running horticultural societies. Our mission is to serve northern gardeners through education, encouragement and community.

If you’re new to MSHS, we invite you to learn more about our signature programs and member benefits on this page and online. If you have suggestions for classes or programs, or ideas for future issues of Northern Gardener, please contact us at info@northerngardener.org. We’re always glad to hear from our members and readers.

Become a Society Member Our members enjoy valuable gardening resources and support important community programs that bring plants to public green spaces and gardening education to underserved communities across the state.

Membership benefits include: Northern Gardener magazine: Get this awardwinning publication in your mailbox.

Free gardening webinars: Learn from gardening experts about everything from soil health to the basics of backyard chickens—all from your own computer!

CULTIVATING

CREATING

ENCOURAGING

MSHS is proud to support community programs throughout Minnesota that help bring gardening, food and activities to families and children.

To join us, visit northerngardener.org.

MINNESOTA GREEN promotes

grassroots efforts to cultivate public green spaces and create community.

GARDEN-IN-A-BOX brings vegetable garden kits to underserved children, giving our youngest gardeners the chance to experience the benefits (and joys!) of growing.

Garden center discounts: Save on plants, seeds, tools and more at trusted greenhouses, wineries and specialty shops in the Upper Midwest.

Classes & events: Enjoy special member rates on educational workshops, special events and horticulture-focused travel tours around the globe.

SEE THE FULL LIST OF BENEFITS AND SIGN UP AT NORTHERNGARDENER.ORG/MEMBERSHIP.

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

Minnesota State Horticultural Society 1935 County Rd. B2 West, Suite 125 Roseville, MN 55113-1334 Phone: 651-643-3601 Email: info@northerngardener.org

@MNHORT

Hydrangea blooms and their changing color add interest to the fall garden.

MSHS Board of Directors Laura Wagner, Chair Joel Karsten, Vice Chair Del Hampton, Treasurer Mary Marrow, Secretary Jennifer Ebeling Mike Heger Debra Kvamme Renay Leone Judy MacManus

MSHS Staff

Rick Juliusson, Executive Director Lara Lau-Schommer, Community Outreach Director Becky Swee, Communications and Marketing Director Diane Duvall, Development Director Courtney Tchida, Community Outreach and Program Manager Betsy Pierre, Advertising Sales Manager

Northern Gardener Magazine

Mary Lahr Schier, Editor Debbie Lonnee, Horticultural Editor Julie Jensen, Copy Editor Barbara Pederson, Designer

Copyright 2020 by MSHS. Printed in the USA on recycled paper. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reprinted without permission from MSHS. The information published in Northern Gardener reflects the experiences and opinions of the writers and is not necessarily endorsed by MSHS. Northern Gardener is a registered trademark of MSHS. (ISSN) 1529-8515. Northern Gardener is published bimonthly (Jan/Feb, Mar/Apr, May/June, July/Aug, Sept/ Oct, Nov/Dec) by the Minnesota State Horticultural Society. Periodicals postage paid at St. Paul, Minn., and additional post offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Northern Gardener, 1935 County Rd. B2 W., Suite 125, Roseville, MN 55113.

A NOTE FROM

The Editor

I

CONTENT TO COME working in terms of form, texture and

am one of those gardeners who likes fall. September is the month when parts of my garden look their best and are alive with bees, butterflies and birds. Cooler temperatures enhance that fresh-start feeling that comes with fall. Of course, the garden doesn't look perfect everywhere. (Trust me, mine never does!) There are those shrubs that are too big for their home and that perennial that is probably getting too much sun and would be happier somewhere else—or in the compost bin.

And, there's that spot that's crying out for some height. Maybe a trellis or an obelisk.

In fall, when the trees are losing their leaves and many perennials are fading, it's easy to see where things could stand some improvement. That's Gail Brown Hudson's point in her article on why fall is the best time to do garden planning and even some planting. Her story, which starts on page 34, offers tips for assessing what your garden needs and what can be added in fall.

I really like her tip to take a photo of an area of your garden you don't love using the black-and-white setting of your phone or camera. With the color removed, you can see what's not

shape. That's just one of many ideas she offers for taking a fresh look at your garden in fall.

If your fall assessment leaves you thinking a major renovation of your landscape is in order, be sure to check out Diane McGann's article on page 26 about her experience adding a water feature and renovating her garden.

While a significant project, a landscape renovation results in enjoyment for years to come.

Fall is also bulb-planting time— another great way to enhance your garden. MSHS is doing a bulb-sale fundraiser this fall in conjunction with Brent and Becky's Bulbs. Any bulbs you buy through their bloominbucks. com website will result in a donation of 25 percent of the total sale to MSHS. Read more about it on page 11. It's an easy way to help the hort society and beautify your yard.

— Mary Lahr Schier, editor

Northern Gardener l September/October 2020

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UPCOMING EVENTS

Fall Calendar Soil Fertility and Cover Crops: Preparing for the Next Season Tuesday, Sept. 15, 6:30–8 p.m. $10 members, $15 nonmembers Location: Your computer Instructor: Courtney Tchida, MSHS community outreach manager

Food Preservation Tuesday, Sept. 1, 6:30–8 p.m.

Free for members, $10 nonmembers Location: Your computer Instructors: Ramsey County Master Gardeners

In this webinar, we will tackle all your cover crop and fall garden prep questions. How can you best prepare your growing area for next spring? When is the best time to plant cover crops? Which cover crops work best to add soil fertility? What does basic compost pile construction look like? What crops can you plant in the fall for spring harvest? Join us to learn these answers and more.

Learn how to save, store and preserve seasonal fruits and vegetables to enjoy the best flavors and highest quality for as long as possible. This class introduces participants to the many different methods of food preservation. Participants will learn the principles, rooted in current research, behind successfully and safely preserving food.

Nature Heals Tuesday, Sept. 8, 6:30–8 p.m.

Free for members, $10 nonmembers Location: Your computer Instructors: Hennepin County Master Gardeners

The biophilia hypothesis describes humans as intrinsically linked to nature and other forms of life. Gardeners know this feeling from how they approach the garden and why they are drawn to working with plants. In this class, we will explore the science of where this intrinsic draw comes from and what it means to us today.

SEE ALL UPCOMING CLASSES AT NORTHERNGARDENER.ORG/WEBINARS.

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

A Season of Flowering Bulbs, Tubers and Corms Tuesday, Oct. 6, 6:30–8 p.m. $10 members, $15 nonmembers Location: Your computer Instructor: William Dougherty

Want to add color to your garden? Don’t miss this survey of spring and summer bulbs, tubers and corms. Discover a vast array of every type to enhance your garden for all conditions. Following good growing and care techniques, you will discover how easy bulbs can be. Learn which bulbs work best in different conditions, good growing techniques and basic principles behind designing with bulbs.

UPCOMING EVENTS

Fall Yard and Garden Tuesday, Sept. 22, 6:30–8 p.m. $10 members, $15 nonmembers Location: Your computer Instructors: Hennepin County Master Gardeners

Preparing your lawn and gardens for fall will get them ready for success in the spring. Now is a great time to take note of what worked well and what you may want to do differently next year. In this class, you will learn the four areas of the garden that need fall attention, how to protect your garden from winter pests and winter burn and how to plan now for spring success.

Garden Redesign Tuesday, Oct. 13, 6:30–8 p.m. $10 member, $15 nonmembers Location: Your computer Instructor: Tami Gallagher, owner/ operator at Home Sown Gardens

If you are happy with your garden footprint but in need of some updates, this class is for you! Learn from the experts about how to integrate softscape into your existing plantings and hardscape to maximize the beauty and longevity of your garden.

Community Events Washington County Horticulture Society Hydrangeas, Hardy and Beautiful Shrubs Kelsey Sparks, presenter.

Tuesday, Sept. 8, 6:45–8:45 p.m.

Hope Church, 7910 15th St. N., Oakdale.

New varieties and sizes to fit your garden, and best practices for caring for these beautiful shrubs. bjronningen@yahoo.com.

Men’s and Women’s Garden Club of Minneapolis Winter Gardens Alan Branhagen, presenter Tuesday, Sept. 8, 7:30–8:30 p.m.

Lakewood Cemetery Garden Mausoleum Reception Room, 3600 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis.

Alan will describe winter gardens in Minnesota. Check website in case meeting is moved to virtual format. gardenclubmpls.org.

St. Louis County Master Gardeners Leave the Leaves Amy Johnson and Gary Kruchowski, presenters Thursday, Sept. 10, 6–7:15 p.m.

West Duluth Branch Library, 5830 Grand Ave., Duluth.

Learn how some leaves and plants make winter homes for valuable insects. ellynwiens@gmail.com.

St. Louis County Master Gardeners Leave the Leaves Amy Johnson and Gary Kruchowski, presenters Monday, Sept. 14, 6–7:15 p.m.

Mt. Royal Branch Library, 105 Mt. Royal Shopping Cir., Duluth. ellynwiens@gmail.com.

North Star African Violet Council Fall Show and Plant Sale Saturday, Oct. 3, 9 a.m.–4 p.m.

Sunday, Oct. 4, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Bachman’s on Lyndale Heritage Room, 6010 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis.

Show will take place if facility restrictions due to COVID-19 are lifted.

NSAVCTC@gmail.com or Facebook: North Star African Violet Council.

Sherburne County Master Gardeners Fall Garden Expo Mary Meyer, presenter Sunday, Oct. 4, 8 a.m.–2 p.m.

Oliver Kelly Farm, 15788 Kelly Farm Rd. N.W., Elk River.

Keynote: Ornamental Grasses for Cold Climates; other speakers on autumn and winter garden design, nature therapy and plant biodiversity; make-and-take gardenthemed door décor. sltracy17@charter.net.

Washington County Horticulture Society Fall Floral Design Shelli Erck, presenter Tuesday, Oct. 13, 6:45–8:45 p.m.

Hope Church, 7910 15th St. N., Oakdale. bjronningen@yahoo.com.

Men’s and Women’s Garden Club of Minneapolis The Evolving Garden as We Age Rosanne Malevich, presenter Tuesday, Oct. 13, 7:30–8:30 p.m.

Lakewood Cemetery Garden Mausoleum Reception Room, 3600 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis.

Check website in case meeting is moved to virtual format. gardenclubmpls.org.

Orchid Society of Minnesota Life on the Rocks Ron Kaufmann, presenter Saturday, Oct. 17, 1–3 p.m.

Bachman’s on Lyndale Heritage Room, 6010 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis.

Contact society in case meeting is moved to virtual format.

FIND A FULL LIST OF COMMUNITY EVENTS AT NORTHERNGARDENER.ORG/CALENDAR.

Northern Gardener l September/October 2020

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THIS SEASON IN THE GARDEN

Growing Garlic Plant garlic this fall and thank yourself later, when you are enjoying fresh pesto, quiches and other garlic-filled dishes next summer. This crop is easy to grow at home. Plant the garlic cloves outside in October so roots can develop before the ground freezes, and then look for foliage early next spring.

PLANTING AND GROWING Garlic loves full sun and welldrained, slightly acidic soil.

Find bulbs at a local nursery (see our list of partners on back inside cover). Do not plant cloves from the grocery store. They will not grow as well as locally adapted varieties.

Plant individual cloves 2 to 4 inches apart and 2 inches deep with the pointed end facing up.

Choose the biggest, healthiest cloves since they will turn into larger, healthier bulbs.

Cover bulbs with a thick layer of straw during winter and leave a thin layer through spring to suppress weeds.

In spring, harvest garlic scapes and flower buds to use in recipes and encourage the plants to put energy into making big bulbs.

HARVEST AND STORAGE

Herbed Garlic Butter with Feta and Lemon (adapted from ourbestbites.com) INGREDIENTS

DIRECTIONS

8 tablespoons butter (not margarine), softened ½ cup crumbled feta cheese 1 tablespoon fresh basil, minced 1 tablespoon fresh oregano, minced 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons fresh lemon zest Kosher salt and black pepper to taste

Stir all ingredients together.

Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Spread on bread or toss with grilled vegetables, meat, seafood or pasta.

To make delicious garlic bread, spread on baguette slices and toast until golden brown.

FOR MORE GROWING TIPS AND RECIPES, VISIT NORTHERNGARDENER.ORG.

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When the foliage begins to yellow at the top and fall over, it’s time to harvest, usually in late July to August.

Harvest a test bulb to make sure the cloves are ready. You will know it’s too early if the papery wrapping is thin. If you wait too long, bulbs can split apart. Gently dig the bulbs and brush off soil. Let bulbs dry in a cool, shady spot with good air flow for two weeks—for best air circulation, hang them upside down in bunches of four to six bulbs. When the roots and papery husk are dry, remove the tops and roots and store in a cool, dark, dry spot (not a damp basement or refrigerator).

Save a few of your biggest, healthiest bulbs for planting next fall.

Minnesota State Horticultural Society

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Invincibelle® Spirit II Hydrangea: $1 PER PLANT DONATED TO THE BREAST CANCER RESEARCH FOUNDATION ®

2020

Before they reach your garden, our flowering shrubs undergo years of trials and testing for color, quantity of blooms, stem strength, foliage and ability to thrive with ease. Only a few prove they’re worthy of the #1 plant brand.

provenwinners-shrubs.com Northern Gardener l September/October

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MSHS NEWS

MEMBER SPOTLIGHT

Heirloom Circle member: Sharon Krumme “i just love the work you do at the horticultural society,” says Sharon Krumme, who recently made the decision to join the MSHS Heirloom Circle by including the society in her estate plan. Sharon, who is managing director of investments at Wells Fargo, understands the value of investing in the society’s future.

Active in her community, Sharon also serves on the Greening and Public Realm Committee of the Minneapolis Downtown Council. “I get so much pleasure out of my gardens that I feel it’s important to share that passion by promoting vibrant green spaces in our cities,” she says.

Empty-nesters, Sharon and her husband, Ed, live in Blaine, with plenty of space for Sharon’s beautiful flower gardens. “Ed takes care of the lawn and I’m the gardener,” she says. Sharon is a self-taught gardener who gets some of her inspiration from Northern Gardener magazine. “I like to read about the new introductions, see how others incorporate them into their gardens and try them in my own,” she says.

“I’m always experimenting with new plants.”

The couple, who recently sold their cabin and additional gardens in Ely, are spending more time at their Blaine property, which includes a patio and fireplace. “I love to cook and entertain friends and family, and the outdoor space is especially important this summer. I’m also looking forward to trying some of those recipes you’re including in the magazine and enews!”

A History Rooted in the State Fair “I would not live in Minnesota because you cannot grow apples there,” New York journalist Horace Greeley is said to have declared back in 1860.

“

I get so much pleasure out of my gardens that I feel it’s important to share that passion by promoting vibrant green spaces in our cities.”

– SHARON KRUMME

TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE HEIRLOOM CIRCLE, CONTACT DIANE DUVALL AT DDUVALL@NORTHERNGARDENER.ORG.

Support the Hort Join us in celebrating 154 years of providing cold-climate gardening information, resources and inspiration. Your gift of $154 today honors our history of growing gardeners and provides essential revenue in the wake of the cancelled Minnesota State Fair. To learn more, visit northerngardener.org/154-for-154.

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At that time, Minnesota was a new state with harsh winters and a small population. But Greeley clearly underestimated the hardy northern gardener spirit.

To attract new settlers and continue enjoying the fruits they loved growing in the East, new Minnesotans were determined to find ways to grow in their new climate.

By 1866, 20 varieties of Minnesotagrown apples were exhibited at the Minnesota State Fair held in Rochester.

Motivated by this milestone, several orchardists met on a rainy evening at the 1866 fair and created the Minnesota Fruit Grower’s Association, a group that would share growing experiences and ideas. Two years later, the group was renamed the Minnesota State Horticultural Society to reflect the many other areas of horticulture also affecting the state’s growth. In 1873, minutes from each meeting were published in what was eventually called Minnesota Horticulturalist (now Northern Gardener), making the society’s publication the longest-running magazine in the state.

Now, 154 years after it all began, our hardy Midwest spirit lives on.

Though the fair is cancelled this year, MSHS is still growing northern gardeners, providing access to gardening resources and creating green spaces across the state, thanks to your support.

Minnesota State Horticultural Society

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MSHS NEWS

SPOTLIGHT

Growing for Health it was a natural partnership— a world-class health organization looking for ways to promote growing fresh vegetables and a group of experienced gardeners eager to serve their community. When the Mayo Clinic reached out to the Dodge County Master Gardeners in 2017, both groups were excited to dig into a new collaboration: building raised garden beds for vegetables and flowers at the Kasson Clinic.

With funding from the Mayo Clinic, local Eagle Scouts built several raised beds. Then, master gardeners, parents, children and teachers from Just Like Home (JLH) daycare center planted the beds together. After learning from the master gardeners about weeding, watering, deadheading and looking

for diseases and insects, JLH children and teachers took care of the beds all summer long.

“One of the best ways to get kids interested is by having them do handson projects where they can literally get their hands dirty,” says Seanne Buckwalter, master gardener and project lead. “The kids loved planting the boxes and took pride in the project.”

In 2019, they planted a salsa garden, full of tomatoes, onions, peppers and cilantro.

At the end of the summer, the children harvested the produce and made a big batch of salsa to enjoy together.

While COVID-19 prevented the groups from growing together this summer, they are already planning a pizza or spaghetti sauce themed garden for next year. Many of the participants

“One of the best ways to get kids interested is by having them do hands-on projects where they can literally get their hands dirty,” says Seanne Buckwalter, project lead.

also brought their new skills home, growing and eating their own vegetables. As Buckwalter points out, they have “learned a hobby they can do all their life."

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Northern Gardener l September/October 2020

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MSHS NEWS

COMMUNITY CONNECTIONS

Growing Gardeners at Mora Elementary School mora elementary school’s fifth-grade class is one of 48 groups participating in the MSHS Garden-in-a-Box (GIAB) program this year. The school has been collaborating with Mora Master Gardeners to create, maintain and harvest gardens in their schoolyard.

As GIAB participants, the school more than doubled its garden space this past spring, adding 10 new planters to six existing raised beds. Using GIAB resources, the students introduced pollinator-friendly flowers as well as vegetable and herb plants to previously underutilized areas on school grounds.

A smaller group of teachers and students tended the gardens this year, due to COVID-19, but the plants still flourished. All 10 beds were filled with carrots, beets and zucchini for a hefty fall harvest. The students left a little room in each planter—they want to sow more seeds so that more crops will be ready if they are back in school this fall. This summer, they harvested lettuce, radishes and rhubarb, making regular donations to their local food shelf. Thank you for growing with us, Mora!

The Garden-in-a-Box program provides schools and other groups around the state with boxes, soil, seeds, plants and education to help underserved children and adults learn to garden and grow food.

“

Garden-in-a-Box provides boxes, soil, seeds, plants and education to help underserved children and adults learn to garden and grow food.”

TO LEARN MORE ABOUT GIAB, VISIT NORTHERNGARDENER.ORG/GIAB.

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

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MSHS NEWS

COMMUNITY CONNECTIONS

MSHS FUNDRAISER

Thank You, Minnesota Green donors

Order Bulbs and Help the Hort

2020 has been a challenging but successful year for Minnesota Green.

We could not have done it without our many contributors.

A big thank you to all donors, including the Friends School Plant Sale, Fred C. Gloeckner Co., Anoka County Master Gardeners, Ramsey County Master Gardeners, Carlson Greenhouse, Harding High School, Guardian Angels Church Food Shelf Garden (Oakdale), Hennepin Technical College, Green Earth Growers, Glacial Ridge Growers, Sunnyside Gardens, 101 Market, Garden Buzz Greenhouse, North Heights Hardware Hank, Phillips Gardens, Pleasant View Gardens, Loon Organics, the Minnesota State Fair, Farmington Greenhouse, Lilydale Garden Center, Heidi's GrowHaus & Lifestyle Gardens, The Mustard Seed Landscaping and Garden Center and Schulte's Greenhouse and countless individuals who provided thousands of plants to the Minnesota Green program this year.

These donations helped more than 100 community and public gardens across Minnesota beautify their plots and increase food security in their neighborhoods.

brent and Becky Heath’s family have been growing bulbs since 1900, when Brent’s grandfather moved to Virginia and fell in love with the daffodil. Today, they live and work on their 28-acre farm in Gloucester and offer a wide variety of bulbs, perennials, seeds and tools.

Besides supplying plant material, the couple values philanthropy and cares deeply about educating gardeners. So they were excited to help raise funds for the MSHS educational programs this fall. Through their Bloomin’ Bucks fundraiser, you can beautify your garden and raise much-needed funds for MSHS to offset lost revenue because of the cancelled Minnesota State Fair this year. Here’s how it works: 11. Visit www.bloominbucks.com.

2. Select the Minnesota State Horticultural Society.

2 3. Order bulbs, books, tools, gift certificates or anything you 3 like and 25 percent of your total will be donated back to MSHS. 4. Look for your items in the mail.

4 When you pick out plants for your garden or find a gift for a friend, you are helping us reach our goal of raising $10,000 by Nov. 15, 2020. Thank you for your support!

FOR HEALTHY COMMUNITY GARDENING RECOMMENDATIONS, VISIT NORTHERNGARDENER.ORG/ RESOURCE-HUB.

Support Local and Save

Check out our full list of 2020 Discount Partners on the back inside cover.

Northern Gardener l September/October 2020

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DIY

TREE PLANTING POINTERS

“

A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they will never sit in.”

—Greek proverb

Space your tree. Trees generally need full sun, but because they also need to be spaced away from other trees, this usually isn’t an issue. Some evergreens and smaller trees, such as dogwoods and Japanese maples, thrive with some shade. The Arbor Day Foundation suggests medium-sized trees (30 to 70 feet at maturity) be spaced 30 to 40 feet apart and 15 feet from a structure.

Trees reaching 70 feet or more should be 40 to 50 feet apart and 20 feet from a structure. Trees under 30 feet should be 6 to 15 feet apart and 8 to 10 feet from a structure. Planting too close to your house will require frequent and expensive pruning and can interfere with sewer lines, though the shade trees provide the house is helpful. Stay 25 feet away from overhead power lines if you’re planting a large tree and check to see if your municipality has any specific ordinances to follow.

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Make planting hole as deep as the container.

BEFORE YOU DIG Make sure there are no utility lines underground where you want to plant. In Minnesota go to gopherstateonecall.org to request that utility lines be marked. 811 is the national number to call.

Dig the hole. Before you dig, make sure there are no utility lines underground where you want to plant.

811 is a national call-before-youdig number. In Minnesota, consult gopherstateonecall.org. In Wisconsin, go to diggershotline.com.

ERIC JOHNSON

most gardeners know they will often not enjoy the full effect of their treeplanting efforts, but future generations and the environment will. Besides, the sight of even a fledgling tree is a happy thing and planting a tree is good for the soul.

You may have heard the basics of tree planting before—give it space, don’t plant it too deep and water a lot—but it always helps to review. September is a perfect time to plant. Cooling temperatures bring less stress to the new planting and there is still time for it to establish itself before winter comes.

Consider this inspiration to go out and find a spot that could use some shade in 20 years.

The planting hole should be twice the diameter of the pot your tree is in, or the tree’s root ball, and as deep as the pot or root ball. Dig a few inches deeper to loosen the soil, especially if it’s compacted and roughen up the side of the planting hole to help the roots work their way in.

Plant the tree. If the tree has become root bound with many roots wrapping around the interior of the pot, loosen them and break them free with your hand or the edge of the shovel. Also, prune off any dead or broken branches but resist doing any other pruning. Nestle the tree into the hole, and make sure the top of the soil it’s planted in, or the top of the root ball, is even with the surrounding

Minnesota State Horticultural Society

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soil. This is the most important thing to do when planting a tree. Extra soil at the top inhibits water, light and oxygen from getting to the developing roots. It also can contribute to the dreaded root girdling, which involves roots growing up and around the trunk, a condition that will kill the tree.

Fill the hole halfway with soil, gently tamp it down with your foot, then water until the hole fills. Allow the water to drain and then fill the remainder of the hole to the soil level of the tree and gently tamp down again. Water the same amount again.

Mulch. To keep weeds at bay and help maintain moisture, apply at least 2 inches of mulch over the excavated area, but keep mulch several inches away from the trunk. You want a moat around your tree, not a volcano.

Care after planting. If your tree is bending excessively and seems unstable, stake it and tie gently with an old nylon stocking. I highly recommend installing a plastic or mesh trunk guard to protect the tree from wildlife for the first few years, just make sure there’s space between the guard and the trunk. Newly planted trees need attentive watering as their roots establish. University of Minnesota Extension recommends watering daily for one to two weeks after planting and every two to three days for the next three to 12 weeks. If your soil is draining well, I would use up to 5 gallons at each of these watering sessions.

Minneapolis-based Eric Johnson blogs at gardendrama.wordpress. com.

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absolute u r b a n g a r d e n c e n t e r e x p e r i e n c e .

Master Gardener VOLUnteer PrOGraM | HennePin COUnty

We’re still here for you.

Classes and events led by Hennepin County Master Gardener volunteers have been cancelled, but we’re still here to answer your gardening questions.

• Connect with us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram for timely tips.

• Read blog posts, look for online classes and videos, and find useful diagnostic tools and resources on our website.

• Ask questions by phone or online.

Now is the time to find out more about becoming a Master Gardener volunteer! www.HennepinMasterGardeners.org Northern Gardener l September/October 2020

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BY DESIGN

GARDEN GUIDES gardens shouldn’t have rules—they should just flow from our imaginations.

Or so my thinking went until I discovered a list of design concepts gathered by landscape architect Rob Steiner to help the average gardener create superior outdoor spaces. You won’t see most of these ideas in garden design classes, but the principles really make sense. Rob gave me permission to share them with you. We’ll start with three guidelines that apply to the overall layout of the garden and consider the remaining rules in another column.

Significant Enclosure

We want to feel safe and protected in outdoor areas where we rest, read, dine or just relax. To feel safe, we need some kind of vertical barrier, such as plantings or a fence, between us and an adjacent open space. But how high should that barrier be? The rule of significant enclosure states that the vertical edge of an area such as a patio must be at least one-third the length of the horizontal space. Apply that rule to your outdoor seating area. If your patio is 12 feet wide, the rule of significant

enclosure says that the vertical barrier on the side abutting open space must be 4 feet high or more.

Of course, there are places with long, sweeping views, and your private area is sited to take advantage of them.

But for outdoor places where you seek refuge, try the formula prescribed in the significant enclosure rule and see if your sense of comfort deepens when it is applied.

Regulating Line

A regulating line is one that organizes a landscape and makes it flow; it coordinates and connects the whole.

The lines are based on geometry, and the theory uses optimum proportions to create harmony. Le Corbusier, a prominent European architect of the 20th century, argued for the use of regulating lines in architecture,

ing gea is th e regulat A clim bing hydran

If it's refuge you are see king, en close th e spa ce.

re.

A half wall giv es a sen se of enclosu 14

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line.

ating

“

PHOTOS:

It's helpful to have a set of rules to make garden planning quicker, easier and more likely to be successful.”

Rocks and pla ntings pro vid e en closu re.

line.

saying that they gave flow and unity to a structure. He pointed out that the design of several famous buildings, including Notre Dame de Paris, is based on this concept.

In the landscape, a regulating line flows from a prominent feature, such as a building edge, a boundary, a large tree or a noticeable outbuilding.

Imagine an invisible line extending from the right-angle corners of these prominent objects. This imaginary line then forms a guide as to where the borders of your raised beds, your shed or your garden paths might go. I think I unwittingly used this concept in deciding where to place a picket fence that I wanted to install in front of my flower garden. After several trial layouts, it became clear to me that it would look best if it flowed from the front edge of my sun porch, becoming an extension of the house.

Golden Rectangle

Geometry again comes to our aid when defining an outdoor shape.

When laying out terraces, raised beds,

patios, ponds or gardens, consider the golden rectangle concept, gold en rectangle. which says Th is area's prop ortions mim ic th e that the most aesthetically pleasing proportion is 1-to-1.618, or roughly 1.6. golden rectangle to determine the This ratio has been used for eons overall proportions of a project you’re and resulted in buildings such undertaking is a great shortcut to a as the Parthenon in Athens. Just pleasing end result. use your math skills to set up the It’s helpful to have a set of rules to measurements. If you know the make garden planning quicker, easier length of the long side of your space, and more likely to be successful. Once determine the measurement of the the basic shapes are in place, and the short sides by multiplying the length setting and proportions are right, we of the long sides by .618. To determine can indulge our creativity. the length of the long sides when you know the measurement of the short sides, multiply the known length by Stillwater-based Diane 1.618. The space need not be an exact McGann is a master rectangle for this proportion to work. gardener and awardYour fish pond might be kidneywinning garden writer. shaped, but the outside measurements will be based on the rule. Using the Northern Gardener l September/October 2020

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NORTHERN NATIVES

ANISE HYSSOP (AGASTACHE FOENICULUM)

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Canadian provinces and the Northwest Territory. Its preferred conditions are sun to partial sun, well-drained sand/ loam soil. It tolerates drought, light shade, and clay or gravelly soils. Good drainage is key to extend survival in subsequent years.

The plant spreads by rhizomes and can be divided for planting in multiple locations. To make sure it sticks around for many years, shake seeds over the area as desired for future propagation and growth. Depending on your soil, you may find the plant spreads on its own.

This is a warm and fuzzy plant. Check for pollinators and then touch the slender flower stalks—soft like a cat’s tail. They bend and wave in the summer wind, and provide the perfect perch for the many pollinators that visit them.

Native-plant enthusiast Beth Stetenfeld is a garden blogger and writer, and a master naturalist volunteer and instructor.

BETH STETENFELD

anise hyssop is a tactile plant; soft to the touch when in full bloom and as it develops seeds. It also appeals to the other senses—the scent of the foliage is reminiscent of licorice and is used in teas, jams, salads and potpourri.

Cylindrical flower spikes, several inches long, work well as cut flowers and provide garden interest from early summer through fall as seed heads.

This biennial or short-lived perennial is also called hummingbird mint or giant hyssop. It works well in the middle or the back of a planting group and is attractive in perennial borders, cottage and herb gardens, and wildflower plantings. It’s equally effective planted in masses or maintained in small clumps.

When anise hyssop is blooming— which it does from July through September—it’s a popular hangout for butterflies, bees, hummingbirds and other pollinators. It is of special value to honeybees and native bees, including bumblebees. The flowers form whorls, and each tubular flower has two lips, characteristic of the mint family (Lamiaceae). It’s entertaining to watch bees travel from flower to flower along the long spike for nectar.

This particular Agastache, one of 22 species, has both ornamental value—in the garden and for cut flowers—and wildlife value for pollinators (pollen and nectar) and birds (seeds). Goldfinches are said to find it a particular favorite. It was rated the Herb of the Year in 2019 by the International Herb Association.

Native Americans used it to treat a wide variety of ailments, and many people value it for this purpose today.

As a tall, spiky plant, it’s great combined with other colorful, shorter plants. Good companions include native plants, such as goldenrods, beebalms, coneflowers, sedges and grasses. In pots, it works well with colorful annuals and foliage plants.

Anise hyssop is typically found in prairies, dry upland woodlands, shrubby barrens, thickets, plains and fields, and is common in the Upper Midwest, Great Plains, and most of the Southern

At a Glance: Anise Hyssop Hardiness: USDA Zone 3.

Native Habitat: Dry, open, semi-shaded areas, including prairies, dry upland forested areas, plains and fields. Upper Midwest and Great Plains, from Northern Colorado to Montana and east through New Hampshire. Also found in most Canadian provinces, although most common as a native plant in the Upper Midwest.

Size: 2 to 6 feet tall; 1 to 3 feet wide.

Site: Prefers sun to part shade; tolerates a wide range of soils, but with good drainage. May develop root rot or powdery mildew and leaf spots in wet soils and/or humid conditions.

Propagation: Easily propagated from seed and often reseeds itself. Requires cold, moist stratification, either by seeding outdoors, or alternating between freezer and refrigerator indoors for several days. After stratifying, place in pots in a warm place—on the soil surface since seeds need light to germinate. Can also be propagated in spring or fall by dividing plants that spread by rhizomes.

Cultivars and Other Species: Anise hyssop is a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae). The genus includes 22 species, mainly native to North America.

Several cultivars are popular, including ‘Alba’, with pale green leaves and white flowers, and ‘Golden Jubilee’, with golden yellow foliage and lavender-blue flowers. Hybrids include ‘Black Adder’ hyssop, with black buds that open to redviolet flowers and ‘Blue Fortune’ hyssop, with lavender-blue flowers.

—B.R.S.

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KITCHEN GARDEN

PUMPKIN PLENTY

Growing and Cooking

Time to grow! Once you’re past your last frost date, you can start planting.

Choose a roomy location in full sun with well-nourished soil. Plant the seeds in hills, with 4 to 6 seeds per hill, 1 inch deep, spacing the hills several feet apart.

(You can also start seeds indoors and transplant, although pumpkin plants can be somewhat sensitive to transplanting.)

Thin to the best 2 or 3 plants per hill once they’re established.

Be generous with your watering. While

Pepitas pumpkin is an All-America Selection, grown for its seeds, which have no hull and are great for fresh eating and roasting.

PHOTO COURTESY OF ALL-AMERICA SELECTIONS

i don’t grow pumpkins in my kitchen garden every year because they require so much space, but I’m always glad when I do. Despite the amount of garden real estate that they consume, they offer an excellent return on the investment. They’re fun to grow, a joy to observe and unendingly delightful in the kitchen.

Pumpkins convey a sense of enchantment, too, which is probably due to the positive connotations that we develop during childhood. We learn that pumpkins mean Jack o’ Lanterns and Halloween, they mean pumpkin pie, they mean holidays and special occasions.

What’s not to like?

But growing pumpkins in the North isn’t always easy. Pumpkins—even the small ones—require a long growing season—generally 90 to 120 days. They need plenty of warm days, ample rain and glorious sunshine.

Choosing a variety is part of the fun because you can choose from adorable miniature pumpkin varieties all the way up to impressive giant pumpkins. Or you can grow carving pumpkins—perfect for Jack o’ Lanterns—or unique heirloom pumpkins in various colors. But if you’re growing pumpkins to use in the kitchen, you’ll want to look for a variety that is recognized as a good eating pumpkin. Some varieties have multiple purposes—Connecticut Field pumpkins, for example, are wonderful for carving and delicious. Other excellent cooking pumpkin varieties include Sugar Pie, Spookie and Winter Luxury.

pumpkins appreciate well-drained soil, they also appreciate having plenty to drink. Mulching is a good idea.

Once your pumpkins have turned orange and the rinds have hardened, it’s time to harvest! Some also suggest tapping the side of the pumpkin; if it sounds hollow, it’s ready. You’ll also want to allow the pumpkins to properly cure for storage. This involves cleaning them off and setting them in a warm place with fairly high humidity for 10 days to two weeks—a greenhouse or a sunny window indoors works well. The goal is to harden the rind further and allow the flesh to sweeten.

Now it’s time to head to the kitchen!

If you grow pumpkins, you’ll most certainly want to make pumpkin pie. But there’s so much more to pumpkin.

Pumpkin bread is further proof that pumpkin belongs in baked goods. Is there any bread as divine as pumpkin?

Or try pumpkin cake with cream cheese frosting—exquisite! Pumpkin and cream cheese is a culinary match made in heaven. But don’t assume that pumpkin

is strictly for desserts! It’s just as wonderful in savory dishes.

Pumpkin soup simply pops with flavor, and roasted pumpkin and root vegetables make a filling dish. Try pumpkin in quiche or a hearty casserole for a delightful change of pace, or if you’re feeling even more ambitious, try a pumpkin pizza or pumpkin chili or even pumpkin lasagna, with pumpkin puree standing in for the tomato sauce.

Start your day with some pumpkin pancakes, drizzled with maple syrup and topped with pats of butter. Need an appetizer? Try pumpkin hummus, pumpkin dip or pumpkin cheese balls for appetizers that are as memorable as they are delicious.

Here’s to the delight of pumpkins in the garden and in the kitchen!

Based in northern Wisconsin, Samantha Johnson is the author of several books, including Garden DIY, (CompanionHouse Books, 2020).

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POLLINATORS

GOLDENROD AND ASTERS

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Pollinators swarm goldenrod in fall.

RHONDA FLEMING HAYES

salt and pepper. Batman and Robin.

Spaghetti and meatballs. Rhythm and blues. Goldenrod and asters. What?

Allow me some alliteration when I say goldenrod and asters are a perfect pairing of powerhouse plants for pollinators.

Robin Wall Kimmerer, author of Braiding Sweetgrass (Milkweed Editions, 2013), writes of applying to be a botany major. Hoping to impress the professor, she told him she wanted to learn why goldenrod and asters look so beautiful together. He responded that beauty is not the sort of thing with which botanists concern themselves.

Kimmerer went on to study botany but struggled to reconcile its limitations in relation to the indigenous teachings about plants that were so important to her as well.

“If a fountain could jet bouquets of chrome yellow in dazzling arches of chrysanthemum fireworks, that would be Canada goldenrod,” she writes.

“Each 3-foot stem is a geyser of tiny gold daisies, ladylike in miniature, exuberant en masse. Where the soil is damp enough, they stand side by side with their perfect counterpart, New England asters. Not the pale domesticates of the perennial border, the weak sauce of lavender or sky blue, but full-on royal purple that would make a violet shrink. The daisylike fringe of purple petals surrounds a disc as bright as the sun at high noon, a golden-orange pool, just a tantalizing shade darker than the surrounding goldenrod. Alone, each is a botanical superlative. Together, the visual effect is stunning. Purple and gold, the heraldic colors of the king and queen of the meadow, a regal procession in complementary colors. I just wanted to know why.”

Before such poetry, I wilt. But from a pragmatic view, goldenrod and asters are an invaluable resource for bees, butterflies and other insects as autumn approaches. Honeybees bulk up on the copious nectar in anticipation of winter; native bees such as bumblebees, digger

bees and leafcutter bees gobble the pollen and nectar to provision lateseason nests or to fatten up for winter dormancy. A number of butterfly and moth species that have already utilized its foliage as host plant during summer will also feed upon it.

Goldenrod and asters are much like milkweed in that they create a community; beyond the bees and butterflies you’ll find syrphid flies, beetles and many other insects.

Goldfinches, tree sparrows, prairie chickens and wild turkeys eat the seeds, while rabbits and deer will browse the foliage.

There are plenty of goldenrod and aster species to accommodate the conditions specific to your garden, whether damp or dry, sunny or shady.

Showy goldenrod (Solidago speciosa) has large, feathery, golden plumes atop reddish stems. It blooms later than other goldenrods but is worth the wait.

Full to partial sun, tolerates dry soil once established.

Stiff goldenrod (Oligoneuron rigidum) has large, flat clusters of yellow flowers, with red foliage in the fall. Full to partial sun, it adapts to all types of soil. It does re-seed! Deadhead to contain this if needed.

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“

It was the bees that showed me how to move between different flowers—to drink the nectar and gather pollen from both … After all, there aren’t two worlds; there is just this one good green earth.”

RHONDA FLEMING HAYES

—Robin Wall Kimmerer

''Fireworks'’ goldenrod

A bee forages on aster.

Zig zag goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis) has smaller flowers that, as the name says, zig and zag up the stem with large flat leaves. This is one for partial sun to shade. It tolerates wetter soils. It can be aggressive; use with caution in small gardens.

There are lots of goldenrod cultivars available too, such as ‘Fireworks’, Little Lemon™ and ‘Crown of Rays’ that may be better suited to small gardens.

New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) has rich purple flowers and almost orange centers. It’s a late bloomer that tolerates a variety of conditions.

Silky aster (Symphyotrichum sericeum) has soft silver-green foliage that is attractive on its own. The lavender flowers are looser in structure and very prolific. At only 12 inches tall, it is smaller than other asters. Full to partial sun, medium to drier soils.

Aromatic aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium) has light purple flowers with bright yellow centers. The flowers redden as they mature. It is one of the last asters to bloom in fall. The foliage has a distinct fragrance when crushed.

It likes sun and soil on the drier side but can adapt to medium conditions.

‘October Skies’, ‘Wood’s Blue’ and ‘Purple Dome’ are also popular cultivars, with many others ranging from purple, blue, leaning to lavender and pink.

I’ll let Robin Wall Kimmerer close with these thoughts: “There was a time when I teetered precariously with an awkward foot in each of two worlds; the scientific and the indigenous. But then I learned to fly. It was the bees that showed me how to move between different flowers—to drink the nectar and gather pollen from both. It is this dance of cross-

Don’t Blame Goldenrod Goldenrod is often blamed for allergy issues related to ragweed. Pollen from goldenrod is too sticky and heavy to cause allergy problems. If you’re sniffling, it’s probably because of ragweed.

—R.F.H. pollination that can produce a new species of knowledge, a new way of being in the world. After all, there aren’t two worlds; there is just this one good green earth.”

Minneapolis-based Rhonda Fleming Hayes is the author of Pollinator Friendly Gardening (Voyageur Press, 2016).

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GARDEN SOLUTIONS

PERENNIAL TULIPS most tulips frustrate me. Planting them is a lot of work and the task produces absolutely no instant gratification. You dig a hole, place the bulbs and bury them, with no results for several months. If you manage to protect them from the squirrels for the rest of the fall and from the rabbits and deer in the early spring, you finally get some fleeting blooms. After all of that work, modern tulip varieties bloom sporadically (at best) in subsequent years. I’m a sucker for thankless tasks, but planting tulips is too much even for me.

I’ve always felt that tulips were betraying me when they didn’t bloom in the second year, but most of them really aren’t supposed to. Tulip breeding programs prioritize flower size and color over plant longevity, so it’s best for your mental health if you treat most tulips as annuals.

A few years ago, I discovered Tulipa praestans ‘Shogun’, a gorgeous lightorange tulip that actually gets better with time. This lovely plant blooms profusely every year and the rabbits don’t mow it down to the ground. I decided it was time to investigate my options for planting tulips that were truly perennial.

White emperor tulip (Tulipa fosteriana ‘Purissima’)

Members of the species Tulipa fosteriana are also known as “Emperor tulips.”

These tulips have the largest flowers of the truly perennial tulips, and they most closely resemble the cup-shaped blooms most people imagine when they think of tulips. The plants are 6 to 20 inches tall, and they spread about 6 inches wide. The flower colors range from soft pinks and oranges to bright reds and yellows. The cultivar ‘Purissima’ has a white flower.

They usually bloom in mid-April, and the plants reliably bloom for several years.

Some cultivars have mottled or striped foliage. Since this characteristic is caused by a (non-lethal) viral infection in the plant, the foliage patterns vary widely.

Kaufmanniana tulips

Tulipa kaufmanniana cultivars are commonly called “water lily tulips” because of their flower shapes. These tulips are usually around a foot tall, and they flower in early April. In welldrained soil with high organic matter and consistent moisture, Kaufmanniana tulips will naturalize easily, especially if you don’t disturb them. ‘The First’ is a red and white striped cultivar named for its early spring appearance, while ‘Stresa’

boasts bright petals in bold chunks of red and yellow. Kaufmanniana tulips can also have mottled or striped foliage.

Greigii tulips

While Kaufmanniana and Fosteriana tulips sometimes sport mottled or striped leaves, Tulipa greigii is best known for this feature. These short yet showy tulips always have foliage streaked with dark purple or maroon, and the leaves are also often ruffled. Greigii tulip flowers are long and narrow with jaunty pointed petals. They flower in mid-April, and they often open and close in response to the amount of sunshine available. Their small size (6 to 12 inches tall) makes them perfect in rock gardens.

Flower colors include pinks, reds, oranges and striped combinations of these. Some cultivars are fragrant, too!

Species tulips

The term “species tulips” encompasses many different tulip species. Some, like my beloved Tulipa praestans ‘Shogun’, are reminiscent of the well-known annual tulips. Others, like Tulipa acuminata (aka The Fire Flame), are eccentric and flashy, with unfamiliar floral shapes. All of these tulips come back year after year, and some will naturalize under the right conditions. Species tulips are usually tiny compared to modern tulips, but their delicate blooms won’t fail to draw you in for a closer look. Last year, I planted 100 Tulipa humilis ‘Helene’ in my gardens, and I was thrilled with their clear pink petals and tidy growth habit. Specialty bulb companies like Van Engelen have a wide selection of species tulips available for mail order, and local garden centers are starting to carry them, too.

Perennial tulips are well worth the work and will reward you with many years of reliable, cheerful blooms.

Minneapolis-based horticulturist Laura Schwarz works in garden design, installation and maintenance.

ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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Fosteriana tulips

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PLANT TO PICK

ANDROPOGON GERARDII ‘BLACKHAWKS’ PP27949 BLACKHAWKS BIG BLUESTEM ornamental grasses add height and texture to our gardens.

‘Blackhawks’ big bluestem also adds exceptional fall (and summer) colors to the perennial garden.

Many northern gardeners have cultivars of little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) in their gardens. Much breeding work over the past decade or more on this plant has resulted in its smaller size and more refined appearance.

The Minnesota-bred cultivar Little Heaven™ is one of several popular little bluestem options.

While little bluestem is a great choice, northern gardeners should really consider using big bluestem as well. This new cultivar, developed by plantsman Brent Horvath at Intrinsic Perennials in Chicago, is a much-improved version of the native big bluestem.

The foliage of ‘Blackhawks’ evolves throughout the growing season. The long, strappy leaves emerge green in spring but quickly start to take on some purple hues, even in June. Throughout the summer, those purple to red or almost bronze hues make their way throughout the foliage.

By autumn, the purple foliage is so deep it looks almost black. It’s striking!

This is a big plant, eventually maturing at a height of 5 feet and more with the flowers and seed heads. It spreads 2 feet wide. It is perfect for the

back of the perennial border, whether as an individual plant or in a group of plants to create screening or add drama.

Blackhawks is hardy in USDA Zones 3-9 so it works for all northern gardeners. It requires a full-sun site (a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight per day) and is not fussy when it comes to soils. Blackhawks can tolerate poor soils and dry sites. It will not tolerate consistently wet sites, however. No

major insect pests or diseases affect Blackhawks.

The flowering stems rise above the foliage in late summer. The flowers are purplish, three-parted, fingerlike clusters up to 4 inches long. Some say they resemble turkey feet, which is another common name for big bluestem.

The flowers can take the mature height of the plant up to close to 8 feet in moist soils but it generally stays shorter in dry soils.

Big bluestem is native to Minnesota and is an important component of the tallgrass prairies. It has sometimes been called the “monarch of the prairie.” It is also used as nesting material for birds and mammals. The straight species has not been used much in home gardens because of its large size and coarse habit, but the breeding improvements made in Blackhawks make it a perfect addition to your perennial gardens. It is a long-lived plant and can be used in naturalization areas and in restoring prairies. It is propagated via division.

Debbie Lonnee works in the horticulture industry and gardens in South St. Paul.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF INTRINSIC PERENNIALS

‘Blackhawks’ big bluestem brings deep purple to the garden.

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Plant these weird and wonderful bulbs for spring and fall beauty.

Story and photos by Kathy Purdy

a lovely September morning, cool and crisp, but I feel like a kid coming downstairs on Christmas, wondering what gifts have been left for me. I know just where to look in the garden, for either tight buds or fresh flowers, and—yep! Right under that hosta leaf, the first colchicum has bloomed, and the bees have already found it.

Colchi-what? Colchicums are flowering bulbs (technically corms) that typically bloom in the fall. You may have heard them called autumn crocus, but false autumn crocus would be a better name because there are true crocuses that also bloom in autumn.

I discovered colchicums more than 20 years ago growing in the yard of the 19th century farmhouse where we lived. Once I figured out what they

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were, I started purchasing every kind I could find. More than 50 types now grow in my garden.

Weird and Wonderful

Colchicums are different than most flowering bulbs—you might say they are downright weird. Their leaves come up in early spring, up to a foot tall and 6 inches wide, and after enjoying the sunshine and spring rains, they die back in early July and disappear. In September, the flowers emerge—without leaves—earning them common names such as naked ladies or naked boys. The flowers don’t have a stem, just a tube of petal tissue. Most tubes are white, a few are yellow-green. My favorites have the flower color all the way down the tube. The ovary of each

flower remains below ground, so that if seeds form (not guaranteed), they don’t show up until the following year, in a pod that comes up with the leaves.

Colchicum flowers are pretty and refreshing. Just when the rest of the garden is looking tired, colchicums emerge as fresh as a spring crocus and as fun to hunt for as the earliest spring bulbs. So what’s not to like? That darn life cycle of theirs means that just as the rest of the garden is at its peak, with peonies, poppies and bearded irises blooming, colchicum leaves are turning yellow and wilting. For some gardeners, this is a deal breaker. I prefer to think of it as a design challenge.

Colchicums are said to prefer full sun but they grow well with less than

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Colchicum speciosum blooms in fall.

Upper right: C. autumnale ‘Alboplenum’; C. speciosum ‘Atrorubens’ showing its colored tube Right: Attractive colchicum foliage in spring with primroses

that in my garden as long as they’re not in deep shade. I like to pair them with the three H’s: Hemerocallis (daylilies), hostas and Heuchera (coralbells). These three have sufficient foliage to hide the colchicum’s dying leaves while still letting the flowers shine come autumn.

I plant the bulbs at the perimeter of the companion plant’s foliage spread.

In the spring, daylilies and hostas are just emerging and any remaining heuchera leaves have been flattened by snow and need removing, so the colchicum leaves can expand and soak up the sunshine they need to form flowers inside the corm. As the colchicum leaves die, hostas, coralbells and daylilies are expanding, obscuring the yellowing colchicum foliage. In autumn as the colchicum flowers emerge, I

sometimes have to remove a hosta leaf or a daylily blade so the colchicums are fully visible. Heucheras have the added benefit of colored foliage that can either complement or contrast with the colchicum flowers.

Because of their unusual life cycle, colchicum bulbs must be ordered and shipped earlier than fall-planted bulbs.

You need to plant them immediately; sometimes they are already sprouting in the bag. Plant the large bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep and about 6 inches apart in average to gritty garden soil. Many colchicum varieties multiply freely and you will soon want to move them to other parts of the garden or share them with friends. The best time to dig them is when the leaves have flopped on the ground and started to dry out,

but have not yet disappeared. You can replant immediately or any time before September. Store them in a net bag in a dry place until you’re ready to plant.

Colchicums are poisonous to all mammals: voles, moles, chipmunks, squirrels, rabbits, deer and humans, so none of them will be digging the bulbs or munching the flowers. Slugs can sometimes be a problem. The bulbs are the source of the drug colchicine, which used to be the standard treatment for gout. Like many drugs, a high dose is lethal. Colchicine is also used to induce polyploidy in plants, so if you have a tetraploid Siberian iris or daylily, you have colchicums to thank.

(Tetraploid plants have sturdier stems, foliage and flowers than typical [diploid] plants.)

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Two-Timers C. autumnale ‘Pleniflorum’

How Hardy?

The colchicum flowers tolerate frost well but a hard freeze turns them to mush.

In my garden, a cold night or two can be followed by days of more moderate temperatures, and the new flowers bloom as if nothing had happened.

I don’t think the hardiness limits of colchicums have been thoroughly tested.

In my experience, more colchicums die over winter because the soil was too wet than because it was too cold. If I try a new colchicum and it doesn’t survive, I always try again in better drained soil. If you try some of the hardiest ones and hanker for more, I encourage you to experiment. Any colchicum described as hardy to USDA Zone 5 is fair game—even in a zone 3 garden. A rock garden or an alpine trough is an excellent place to trial colchicums of questionable hardiness. If they multiply for you, try them in other places.

C. autumnale ‘Alboplenum’

C. speciosum ‘Album’

Hardy to Zone 3

Colchicum autumnale This colchicum is native to the British Isles, where it is called meadow saffron. It tolerates damper conditions than most colchicums.

Colchicum autumnale ‘Nancy Lindsay’ is a bigger and better version of the species.

The flower color is deeper and the tube is thicker. This one has a colored flower tube, making it one of my favorites. It is very vigorous, making offsets (new corms) quickly.

C. autumnale ‘Pleniflorum’ A double form of the species. The ‘Waterlily’ C. autumnale ‘Nancy Lindsay’

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hybrid is showier and more commonly available.

C. autumnale ‘Album’ Slight and slender, but pure white. It looks marvelous springing up from a bed of ‘Black Scallop’ ajuga.

C. autumnale ‘Alboplenum’ This double-white form blooms well into October.

It’s another vigorous one. It looks like stars spangling the front of the border.

Match it with dark-leaved heucheras.

Colchicum speciosum is larger than C. autumnale and has a white throat.

C. speciosum ‘Atrorubens’ is deeper in color than the species and has a richly

C. speciosum ‘Atrorubens’

colored tube. It’s not as widely available as the species, however, so grab it if you find it!

C. speciosum ‘Album’ This pure white version has an elegant form and a yellow-green tube, echoing the color of the stamens. Some say it is the most beautiful of all colchicums, but it is slow to increase in my garden. Another one to pounce on if you find it for sale.

C. ‘The Giant’ It really is giant—head and shoulders above mere mortal colchicums.

The color is pale, but because it’s so big, it makes a statement from a distance.

A grouping of Colchicum ‘The Giant’ is a striking fall display along a rock wall.

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Colchicum x byzantinum ‘Innocence’

Hardy to Zone 4

Colchicums vs. Crocus Colchicums are often called autumn crocuses. While there are crocuses that bloom in fall and they bear a superficial similarity in appearance, there is enough difference in the details to make distinguishing between the two straightforward.

Crocuses belong in the Iris family and have three stamens (the male part bearing pollen). Colchicums are in their own family, though related to lilies, and have six stamens. If you don’t feel like counting stamens, look at the leaves. Fall-blooming colchicums won’t have any leaves when they bloom. Depending on the species, fall-blooming crocuses may or may not have leaves, but they will be the same grasslike leaves that spring-blooming crocuses have.

—K.P.

Colchicum x byzantinum

Colchicum x byzantinum Most catalogs rate this as zone 5, but it thrives in my zone 4 garden. Flowers are short but numerous. Each petal has a white line down the center and the styles have a little curve at the tip, which is purple. The bulbs and the leaves can get huge.

C. x byzantinum ‘Innocence’ At first glance, this appears to be a pure white form, but there is a teeny bit of purple at the tip of each petal. It’s not as vigorous as C. x byzantinum but not as slow to increase as C. speciosum ‘Album’.

C. ‘Rosy Dawn’ is similar to C. speciosum but with a larger white throat.

C. ‘Harlekijn’ The ends of the petals are curled almost into a tube, giving the effect of a jester’s cap. Fun! SOURCES Brent and Becky’s Bulbs https://bloominbucks.com Select MSHS to direct a portion of your purchase to the society.

Daffodils and More https://bit.ly/DaffsMore Illahe Rare Bulbs Follow the blog at www.illaherarebulbs.blogspot.com, or request a price list by emailing illaherarebulbs@gmail.com.

McClure and Zimmerman https://bit.ly/McClZimm Odyssey Bulbs https://bit.ly/odysblb —K.P.

C. ‘Jochem Hof ’

C. ‘Glory of Heemstede’

Hardy to at least Zone 5

These are some of my favorites and are worth the gamble, especially if you already have the hardier ones.

C. ‘Dick Trotter’ Rich, deep color that goes all the way through the tube.

Blooms late and sometimes gets hit with an early freeze but worth the risk.

C. ‘Jochem Hof’ has intense color in an almond-shaped flower. Blooms early.

C. ‘Glory of Heemstede’ is another checkered one with vivid raspberry color.

Blooms later in the season.

I would never have started growing colchicums if they hadn’t already been in my garden, but now I love walking around in fall and discovering them all over again. Next time you’re flipping through a bulb catalog, stop at the colchicum section. Don’t you have a spot that could stand some brightening up?

Try just one. Like me, you’ll probably be back for more.

Kathy Purdy gardens in upstate New York and is the proprietor of the blog coldclimategardening.com.

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Paths and plants give the garden structure.

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Shady areas are planted with daylilies, astilbes, hostas and hydrangeas.

Time for Transformation A broken pond liner leads to a fabulous garden renovation.

Story and photos by Diane McGann

Who can resist the sound of water bubbling or splashing? Not I, but I didn’t expect that what began as a quest for the sound of water would end up as a major garden overhaul. My 25-year-old pond liner had finally sprung a leak, and looking at the entire garden with the idea of a new water feature led to the realization that it all looked pretty tired and worn. The garden walkways were uneven, the flower beds were overgrown, and the pond was dry. It was hard to accept that a total renovation was needed; after all, I had laid the 150 feet of limestone paths myself, helped dig the pond and installed the fountain.

But I knew that a major renovation was really the only fix for the unruly garden that stared back at me.

I took my time and considered many options. Eventually the lay of the land— the garden sloped gently down to our deck and on to a wooded area—con-

could actually have been there all along.

A contributing factor was that I had found the right person to help me. (I’m done digging ponds!) Bill Osmundson of Lifestyle Creations had designed and installed two landscapes I’d visited on garden tours, and each homeowner had raved about him and his work. So … a phone call to Bill, and the transformation began.

Designing the Stream and Paths

Chilton rock edges the stream that runs through the garden.

vinced me that a meandering stream and waterfall would fit the surroundings and provide that much-desired sound of water. I wanted it to look natural and as if maybe, just maybe, the stream

We knew that we wanted the stream and waterfall to flow gently toward the house and deck, but what materials should we choose? Just like the pathway pavers I had gathered 25 years earlier, a pile of foraged old street bricks awaited my use. Luckily, there were enough of them to form the main path through the garden and the sitting area next to the waterfall. The brick walkway would offer steps and landings to Northern Gardener l September/October 2020

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Time for Transformation

Ways to Add Water If you also love the sound of water, consider these options, going from least to most expensive.

• One or more small water features throughout your garden and/or on your patio. These come ready to use, or you can create your own.

• A fountain. Check websites and circulars from nurseries or garden centers for numerous options.

• A small to medium pond with a fountain. You can opt for a solar fountain or a wired one. You’ll remove the fountain for storage each winter.

• A stream and pondless waterfall, such as I chose. This works well if your yard is sloped. The water recirculates through an underground pipe.

• A long stream, without the waterfall. If you have a high slope, this could be a natural.

• A large pond with a waterfall. If you have the budget and the inclination, you could even make this a swimming pond.

—D.M.

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“

I had planned to redo the messy old paths myself by topping them with pea gravel, but the quality of work being done and the resulting tableau convinced me to have the remaining paths also professionally installed.”

help navigate the slope. This created opportunities for signature plants to frame each landing.

The next question was what stone to use for the stream border to best complement the brick. I love cream-colored Chilton rock, reminiscent of the golden stone of the English Cotswolds region, and fortuitously, brick yards were beginning to offer it in large slabs, rather than the standard brick-size pieces previously available. Interspersed with the old red bricks, the Chilton stone created exactly the look I wanted.

We ordered a few extra boulders and scattered them in the garden around the waterfall. The goal was to emulate the surroundings of a natural cascade, in the hope that it would look as if it

had been there for eons. We even found a Chilton slab that, perched on two boulders, morphed into a destination bench.

I had planned to redo the messy old paths myself by topping them with pea gravel, but the quality of work being done and the resulting tableau convinced me to have the remaining paths also professionally installed.

I’m so glad I did. Placed roughly where the old pathways wound through the garden, the curves were altered to be more pleasing, and the crisp edges looked so much better than the ramble of rocks that had edged the old walkway.

We chose a buff-colored limestone for the paths. It blended with the Chilton rock, and helped to create the unity and harmony I was seeking.

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Time for Plants

With the framework in place, it was time to choose plants. Bill and I exulted over a Pagoda dogwood already in place that would make a perfect backdrop for the waterfall, and I had saved some of the original perennials, but many more were needed. Because a good portion of the area is shaded, I chose a series of low-light-loving plants, including hostas, astilbes, heucheras, ferns and bleeding hearts that would march up toward the sun-loving plants at the top of the garden. A picket fence in the sunny area forms a perfect background for the bright colors of lilies, yarrows,

Opposite page, left: The shade garden in bloom near the woods Above, from left: ‘Blue Gold’ spiderwort; a damselfly on meadow rue (Thalictrum); ‘Gold Heart’ bleeding heart Right: Purple columbine blooms in spring.

Below: Pink phlox petals open.

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Time for Transformation From left: Dainty mallow softens the picket fence; a monarch nectars in the sun garden; ‘Northwinds’ switch grass stands sentinel.

Renovation Advice • Go for it. We’re all going to be homebound a lot more than we ever expected. If finances allow, install that pond or redo your garden. You’ll likely have lots of time to enjoy it.

• Consider myriad ideas. What is most important to you? A patio? Water feature? Flowers? Play area? Think about all of the options. Then choose your focus and build on it.

• Visit websites that offer ideas and images of what you’re seeking. Pinterest and Houzz come to mind. Or Google words such as “garden, pond, seating” or whatever fits the bill for you.

• Unless you are a skilled do-it-yourselfer, find professionals to help you with hardscaping. Visit projects they have installed, and interview the homeowners. Be doubly sure that your vision of the renovation and their vision align. Be on site, monitoring the unfolding of the project. Then you can make changes, if need be, as the work progresses.

• Be prepared to spend money. Professional services aren’t cheap, but remember it is an investment in your home. You may well recoup the majority of the costs you’ve incurred when you sell, and you will be able to enjoy your renovated garden for years. Determine costs up front, and get them in writing.

• Remember that you’ll be without part of your yard for a period of time.

Don’t plan any events in the garden until well after its projected completion.

Weather, illness and lack of materials can all intervene to create delays.

• If you’re planning a water feature, site it so that you can hear it. Opt for the strongest motor you can to propel the water, so that the sound constantly caresses you. Keep it running a lot.

• Choose hardscaping materials that will coordinate with structures around it, and think about duplicating materials already present in the landscape. For example, if the walkway leading to your front door is brick, consider using the same brick to make paths or pave a patio. You’re aiming for unity and harmony.

• Relax and enjoy your new garden.

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—D.M.

coneflowers, phlox, bee balms, catmints and malvas.

Possibly because it reminds me of sunlight, I seek out bright yellow foliage and pair it with maroon-leaved perennials and steel-blue plants whenever I can. Some favorites are the chartreuse rays of Japanese forest grass, the golden glow of Lysimachia (creeping Jenny,) the large maroon leaves of Ligularia ‘Brit Marie Crawford’ and the deep purples of heucheras ‘Palace Purple’ and ‘Obsidian’.

Apart from the other-than-green foliage I sought, I chose the garden stalwarts, such as phlox, catmint, reblooming lilies, shrub roses, Asiatic lilies, yarrows, sundrops and sedums. If it’s hardy, floriferous and long-blooming, it’s in my garden. As for color, I look for blooms in cherry red, any shade of purple, and clear yellow, a combination that I love. It’s known as a triadic arrangement, the name for three colors evenly spaced on the color wheel.

Sitting on the deck, listening to the water flow, even my non-gardening husband, who usually prefers the indoors, labeled the project the best home-improvement money we had ever spent. That’s serious praise. I think the sound of water is soothing to everyone.

Stillwater-based Diane McGann is the By Design columnist for Northern Gardener.

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A ‘Seckel’ pear tree produces an abundance of fruit and clouds of spring flowers.

Full OF FRUIT This small urban garden is jam-packed with flavor.

Story and photos by Soni Forsman

David and Helene Schultz grew mostly vegetables in their St. Paul home garden until about 25 years ago when they decided to try fruits. Today, several varieties flourish on their lot, which David describes as a mini, urban, organic fruit farm with a regular vegetable garden attached.

I heard about this garden listening to a Saturday evening radio talk show.

David, who teaches law and political science at Hamline University, is a frequent political commentator, and the host began the segment by asking how his garden was doing. An expert on politics, government and election law, David says he “farms” on the side.

A Tiny Arboretum

Eager to learn more, I first visited the Schultz yard in late summer. Helene was working (she’s a business consultant), but David showed me around, sharing the property’s history, growing tips and stories about some of the fruit varieties.

The tour began in the front yard, which is anchored by two pear trees.

Both were laden with ripening fruit tucked amongst the lush foliage. Even

draped in foliage and fruit, the trees appear somewhat sculptural in shape, which David credits to regular pruning.

Every other fall, an arborist reshapes them to maintain their health and vigor.

The arborist also looks for blight and pest issues when pruning.

For pollination, David and Helene grow two varieties: ‘Seckel’ and Delicious™. Seckel pears ripen first, but Delicious pears keep better in the refrigerator. Both are sweet and resistant to fire blight. Together, the trees have

produced about 300 pounds of pears annually for the past decade. In 2019, the couple harvested almost 500 pounds.

I went back this spring to see how many flowers it takes to produce that many pounds of pears. As I turned onto the street, from several houses away, a mass of white grabbed my attention.

Up close the trees were clothed in what must have been thousands of white flowers set against the backdrop of a brilliant blue sky. David expects another good harvest.

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Full of Fruit

Finding What Works Over the years, David and Helene have tried other fruits including apples, apricots, plums, cherries and blueberries. The garden soil did not work for growing blueberries, David says, and the apple tree was taken out because of blight. They were successful with the apricot (Helene’s favorite fruit), plum and cherry trees. Eventually, those trees got too old to produce and were removed.

We begin walking but soon stop at a shrub I would have mistaken for a landscape planting. David gently brushes his hand over the foliage and identifies it as a Russian honeyberry. He describes the fruit as oblong in shape, blueberry-colored with a tart taste. Fruit comes on early in the season and is harvested in late spring. It is picked when plump, the outside a deep purple-blue color and the inside blue. David suggests substituting this early fruit in recipes calling for blueberries. “They make terrific muffins,” he says.

For good fruit production, there needs to be two or more varieties for good pollination. They have three, planted in part sun. It takes three to four years for the plants to produce abundant fruit, says David, but they are productive for many years.

Nearby are two hazelnut trees, which are tall bushes. Planted about 10 years

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ago, it took years for them to produce, David says. Hiding amongst the leaves are clusters of hanging lime-green colored sheaths with ruffled edges.

The nuts form and grow inside these shear-looking coverings. David turns a cluster up so I can see the forming fruits. “Aren’t they beautiful?” he asks.

The nuts drop out in very late summer or early fall when dry. “We harvest early to out-race the neighborhood squirrels,” says David. They decided against netting, fearing a bird or squirrel would become entangled. After roasting the nuts, they eat them or use them in baking.

The backyard is edged with a border garden where more fruits grow including three varieties of raspberries—red, black and champagne. The light yellow is the variety ‘Fall Gold’, which has a sweet, mild taste. The three varieties provide between 3 and 4 gallons of berries each year, David says. Next are tomatoes. The blemish-free fruits hang on lush green vines. Their secret to healthy plants with good-looking tomatoes is crop rotation and growing them near plants, such as marigolds, that discourage pests.

Walking further along the border we see a new planting of strawberries with space reserved for rhubarb. Next to the garage, a chokeberry tree drips with purple-black berries that attract the birds. “Birds get some and what is

Big harvests from a small lot. From left, hazelnuts in their sheaths, ‘Seckel’ pear blossoms, tomatoes ready for harvest, ‘Fall Gold’ raspberry.

Below: Leaf lettuce grows in a bowl.

left, we cook, separate out the seeds and make sorbet and jam,” says David.

He mentions that it has fragrant white flowers in the spring.

Downsizing the Vegetables

Near the center of the backyard is a free-standing deck mostly enclosed with raised beds for growing vegetables. In the past, Helene and David had a large vegetable garden, Helene says, but rabbits and aggressive Peruvian daisy (common quick weed) proved the undoing of this garden. “Barriers and fencing did little to control the [rabbit] damage and we could not control the

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weeds,” she says. They worked with a landscaper to restore the lawn and build the deck with raised beds for vegetables.

They added more raised beds this spring and planted new cherry and plum trees to replace the ones taken out years ago.

Lettuce varieties, beans, peppers and herbs are among the vegetables grown in the raised beds and in pots on the deck. Asparagus grows next to the deck. David says they harvest about 10 pounds of asparagus each year from the two roots planted several years ago.

They grow their vegetables from seeds and they have the most success with seeds from companies located in the same growing zone as the Twin Cities, Helene notes.

An advantage of growing fruits, according to David, is that fresh vegetables are readily available at farmers’ markets in the summer and at reasonable prices. “Fruit choices are slimmer and more expensive,” he says.

Much of the produce is used in season, except for the abundant pears.

To preserve the pears and some of the other fruits for later, they can, dehydrate, make sauce and freeze. After that, they share with friends and neighbors and donate what remains to the Dorothy Day Center and Neighborhood House. Helene says, “It feels good to unburden ourselves while feeding hungry people.”

Garden Transplants

“

David suggests substituting honeyberries in recipes calling for blueberries.

‘They make terrific muffins.’”

Both David and Helene grew up in New York. David is from upstate and Helene from New York City. Helene’s father influenced her early interest in gardening. He tended houseplants in their Bronx apartment. When they moved to Queens, they grew flowers and vegetables in a small courtyard and a window box.

David’s grandparents lived on a farm that he often visited. He learned gardening at an early age and by the time he was 5, his mother was teaching him how to cook. David and Helene like to cook and bake together and occasionally do some catering or cooking for charity.

Shortly after they were married, they took a class from Broome County Extension, New York, to learn safe food practices and the use of home canning equipment. They still use the recipes and instructional materials from the class when making fruit preserves and pickles.

Pear trees with abundant fruit, hazelnuts protected inside flowery enclosures, honeyberries and champagne raspberries are just some of the highlights of my visit. The garden is small but so big in the amount of produce, especially fruits, it yields.

Soni Forsman gardens in Eagan and is a regular contributor to Northern Gardener.

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get going

It’s time to start planning and planting

Story and photos by Gail Brown Hudson

FALL IS UPON US AND MAYBE YOU ARE FEELING “DONE” WITH YOUR ORNAMENTAL GARDEN. Your flowers have bloomed, they’ve set seed, and the days are getting shorter. The growing season is over, isn’t it? But here’s the big secret to having a great garden: the real start of the gardening year is fall—not spring!

“Fall is just a nice time, when you have time to stop and think,” says Liisa Schmitt, owner of Liisa Schmitt Landscaping Design in Minneapolis.

It’s not easy to flip your gardening calendar on its head, but …“there’s just not that pressure this time of year to get your plants in,” Liisa says. You’ve got time to be practical and thoughtfully assess your garden. It is the perfect time to prepare, plan and even do some improvements. So, let’s get started!

Start with Structure

“At this time of year, it’s so easy to see [structure] because it’s a tired garden,” Liisa says. “If you don’t have structure, it just shows so easily.” Structural elements such as trees, shrubs, evergreens, and hardscapes like paths, retaining walls and fencing help frame the landscape. They can keep everything looking tidy, even if your planting is a bit wild.

Do you only have floppy plants in your yard? Or do you set off your perennials with a backdrop of evergreens or trees with interesting bark and leaves? Have your foundation plants become overgrown or ragged and need replacing? Fall just happens to be a terrific time to install some structural plantings like trees and shrubs.

The light has been slowly diminishing in Joni Bennett’s front yard in St. Louis Park, thanks to a neighbor’s growing tree. Last fall, Liisa recommended adding two Emerald Spreader® yews (Taxus cuspidata ‘Monloo’) in an area sloping down to the sidewalk. It was an instant improvement.

“She had too much of the same green everywhere,” Liisa said. “[This] is a winner on so many levels,” adding winter interest, structure, texture and color, especially in the shade.

Coneflowers and allium seedheads add interest to the garden into autumn.

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nex

structure

ing next year’s garden.

!

MARY LAHR SCHIER

Three ways to add structure to your garden.

Top: Add a hedge with perennials in front of it.

Above: Frame flower gardens with trees that blaze with fall color.

Right: Install a tall garden structure that fronts standout fall plants, such as Amsonia hubrechtii.

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Get Going

Form and Texture

Above and right: Daisyshaped flowers along with spikes, such as anise hyssop and Russian sage, add interest in fall.

Below: Consider varied foliage form, too, when adding new plants.

Below, right: When in doubt, for fall interest, plant a hardy hibiscus.

form and texture

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“Maybe you want to try something new—maybe you want to try natives or a bee garden,” says Heidi Heiland, owner of Heidi’s GrowHaus and Lifestyle Gardens in Corcoran.

“You’re always assessing and learning. And if there’s an opportunity for a soil test—that’s always a good thing,” If you don’t know what to do, use photos to record your garden borders throughout the season—it’s a particularly effective technique for a perennial garden. At a minimum, I take photos in the spring, early summer, mid-summer and late summer to keep track of what’s what. You can also use photos as a planning tool by placing tracing paper over a photo, circling the plants you want to keep. That shows you what gaps need to be filled and what plants can go into the compost pile.

Here’s a trick I learned from a British gardening magazine: Use black and white photos to reveal what your eyes may not easily decipher. (A quick adjustment to the settings on your smartphone’s camera will shift an image to black and white.)

With no color, you can instantly see if your flowerbed has a pleasing mix of contrasts in plant shape, form and texture. It is an important clue to determine whether your border will look good when the flowers have faded and only the foliage is left.

I tried this technique on a “blah” corner of my garden. The photo revealed that the mix of color and texture was OK— Amsonia provided delicate texture that contrasted with large hosta leaves, and a mass of wild geranium gave a lacey look to the border edge. However, it was also evident I had too many plants with big oval leaves (the hosta), plus a phlox riddled with powdery mildew that desperately needed more air circulation. It was the wrong plant in the wrong place.

I had also grown tired of a Ligularia that had leaves too similar to the hosta’s leaves and was taking over. I dug up the Ligularia, removed the phlox and planted the perennial Hibiscus ‘Mars Madness’ (PP27838).

Maplelike, olive green leaves with coppery-purple tones and magenta-red blooms made it a definite improvement!

“I always tell people, if your garden is not colorful in August add perennial hibiscus,” says Duane Otto, landscape gardener at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum in Chanhassen. “They’re so fabulous in that last portion of the season.”

When it comes to varying plant shape, form and texture, Dutch landscape designer Piet Oudolf recommends thinking of plants in three categories based on the shape of the flowers: spires (think astilbe or salvia), daisies (like rudbeckia, anemone or dahlias) and umbellifers ( joe-pye weed, yarrow). Add plants with different flower forms, and contrast or match the color tones.

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shrub planting tips

If your enthusiasm (and the cooler weather) inspires you to replace large perennial groups, Liisa recommends not doing it in the fall unless you are willing to water adequately. Try to do your planting, whether perennials or shrubs or trees, before mid-September to give plant roots time to settle in.

Thriving vs. Surviving

It happens to all of us—suddenly you notice your plants are struggling in deeper shade or roasting in the sun because the light has changed. Did somebody build a house? Did a neighbor trim their tree? This can make a significant difference between plants that are simply surviving or robustly thriving. If a plant still looks good in fall, it’s a definite keeper.

Have you matched your plants to the soil and the planting conditions? Fall is a great time to apply compost by top dressing or sprinkling a layer of compost around the base and sides of a plant, then watering it in. This improves the structure of the soil; supplies nutrients at a slow, steady pace; improves the moisture-holding capacity of the soil; and makes your plants stronger and healthier.

A rainy summer can tell a gardener a lot about drainage patterns and problems. Is the soil draining well, so the roots of your plants aren’t drowning? Plants need both water and oxygen to survive. It may be time to move them out of a water-logged location and plant something that will handle more moisture.

Is your perennial starting to go bare in the center? Dividing well-established clumps in the fall can reinvigorate old, tired plants. Simply lift the clump with a fork or spade, divide the roots of small ones with your hands or put two forks into the center of the roots of a large plant back-to-back, and pull the handles in opposite directions to pry it apart. Add some compost to the soil and replant the divisions in groups.

Fall is a good time to plant shrubs, and it’s not difficult.

Pull your shrub out of its pot and loosen the soil on the root ball—you may be surprised how much dirt falls off! Then measure the size of the root ball— the height in particular— to determine how deep to go. Liisa stomps on the bottom of the hole once it’s dug to make sure the plant Before planting a shrub, rough up the won’t sink. root ball so roots will move into the soil.

And while many tags say to dig a hole twice as wide, Liisa says just make sure there’s ample room for the plant.

Put the plant in the hole, then fill around the plant halfway with dirt, packing it in tightly with your hands.

Add water and let it soak in. Finish filling with soil, water again, then create a moat with dirt around the plant to keep the water in. Water it a third time.

—G.H.

Maintenance for Spring

You’ll make a big difference to your garden the next season by keeping on top of the weeds, particularly perennial weeds like dandelions and creeping Charlie, even in the fall. Like most plants that go dormant in the winter, these weeds move energy resources from the leaves and stems to the roots and the crown in autumn. In other words, they’ll be there when the snow melts, ready to grow!

And finally, maybe this is the time to admit your garden has become too much work. Some planning now for spring is a smart move, Liisa says.

Now you can see why fall can be the start of big things to come. If there’s a plant that tempts you, now is the time to plant it!

Gail Brown Hudson has a master’s degree in horticulture from the University of Minnesota. She is an Emmy® award-winning journalist, writer and video producer, as well as an avid gardener in Minneapolis.

For good looks year-round, choose varied flower shapes.

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With its heady fragrance and hardy habits, this humble herb is a garden treasure.

y l e v o L Lemon Balm Story by Samantha Johnson Photos by Dan Johnson

Lemon balm’s leaves are packed with fragrance.

As

your eyes drift across the garden, you might not immediately notice the bushy herb with the jagged-edged leaves. It’s easy to overlook amongst the sunflowers and the summer squash and the snapdragons.

But let’s take a closer look at this unobtrusive and unassuming herb.

It’s sometimes called common balm, garden balm, balm mint, dropsy plant, honey plant, Melissa, sweet balm or heart’s delight—but it’s usually known as lemon balm.

It may not have achieved the fame of those herbal staples basil and mint, but lemon balm might surprise you with its versatility and its long history. Shakespeare mentioned it in The Merry Wives of Windsor and Homer referred to it in The Odyssey.

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A Superlative Herb

Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) is native to Europe, but over the centuries it has naturalized widely across the globe. Its presence in North America is said to date back to Colonial times, and by the 1820s, lemon balm seeds were regularly advertised in newspapers along with other herbs and plants.

Fast forward about 200 years. In 2007, the International Herb Association honored lemon balm as its Herb of the Year, a designation that recognizes superlative herbs that are “outstanding in at least two of the three major categories: medicinal, culinary or decorative.” Lemon balm amply meets the criteria.

A closer look at its botanical name reveals more: Melissa is Greek for honey bee, while officinalis is a Latin word related to medicine. Lemon balm is a

bushy and compact plant that reaches approximately 2 feet tall and wide and produces delicate pale flowers that bees adore. But don’t confuse lemon balm with bee balm! Bees love both plants and both are “balms,” however, lemon balm is completely distinct from bee balm (Monarda didyma).

Lemon balm is a member of the mint family, and it shares mint’s tendency to take over the garden, although unlike mint, lemon balm spreads mostly by seed.

Easy to Grow

Lemon balm is exceptionally easy to grow. Perhaps it’s that connection to the mint family that makes it thrive so indestructibly. Whatever the reason, lemon balm is remarkably easy to have around the garden. It isn’t particularly

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Left: To dry lemon balm, snip the herbs, tie together and hang them in a dry place.

Inset: Lemon balm’s petite bloom Below: In the garden, lemon balm is hardy and relatively free of pests.

picky about its situation and can do well in full sun or part sun, in well-drained soil or soil that’s slightly moist, in garden beds or in containers. It’s even possible to grow it indoors although it isn’t considered ideal.

But the good attributes don’t stop there: lemon balm is also relatively free from pests and diseases. Animals generally avoid it, so you don’t have to worry about deer decimating your lemon balm plants.

Powdery mildew can be an issue for lemon balm (unless you choose a cultivar that has some resistance), but you can help prevent the disease by providing good airflow around plants. Allow generous spacing between plants and don’t be afraid to thin your lemon balm by harvesting stems to allow more air to circulate.

You can establish lemon balm by seed, by division, or by stem cuttings.

It’s generally hardy to USDA Zone 4—it overwintered in my zone 4a garden and came back beautifully in the spring.

There are lots of opinions about the best time to harvest lemon balm for peak flavor, so you may want to experiment to find the sweet spot. You can harvest throughout the summer. If you don’t want it to spread, trim back the plant before it goes to seed.

Lemon balm is often used fresh, but if you want to preserve it, just hang it upside down in small bunches to dry.

You can also freeze it in vegetable oil or water.

Aromatherapy and Other Uses

One of the best ways to use lemon balm is to simply crush the leaves with your fingers and smell the glorious lemon scent. But it’s also wonderful in cooking, baking and beverages.

Lemon balm is probably best known for its use in teas. It can be delicious in iced or hot tea, punch and juice. You can also make lemon balm syrups that are then used in baked goods or beverages.

How about ice cream? Salad dressings? Cake? Lemon balm can be chopped fresh and added to an array of sweet and savory recipes from salads

and soups to butter and bread. It’s delicious when used in poultry recipes and also pairs well with fish. And you can even make candied flowers from the blossoms—how delicately delightful!

Lemon balm is useful outside the kitchen, too. You can use lemon balm to make your own insect repellant, thanks to the high concentration of citronellal in the plant. Or crumble fresh leaves between your fingers to ward off unwelcome insects.

Lemon balm can be infused in cosmetics, like lip balm, and it also makes an excellent addition to a batch of potpourri.

Now, when it comes to medicinal uses, lemon balm has a long list of areas in which it has shown benefit, either anecdotally or in studies. Lemon balm is said to have some effect at relieving stress, anxiety, headaches, nausea, indigestion, cold sores and insomnia, as well as some positive effect on cognitive function. There has also been some indication that it may reduce agitation in Alzheimer’s patients. (Note: Consult your doctor before using herbs medicinally. Although lemon balm is considered to be a safe herb, it is not without the potential for side effects.)

Are you ready to experience the wonder that lemon balm can bring to your garden? This charming, lemon-scented plant is ready to take its place alongside your other favorite herbs!

Based in northern Wisconsin, Samantha Johnson is the author of several books, including Garden DIY, (CompanionHouse Books, 2020). Visit her online portfolio at samanthajohnson.contently.com.

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MOLLY MOE

CHECK OUT Seed Libraries

Seed saving, sharing builds community of gardeners.

Story and photos by Michelle Bruhn

Seed libraries sound almost too good to be true. Free, locally grown seeds along with ways to connect with gardeners in your community? Sign me up! That’s what I said when I discovered my community had a seed lending library.

At seed libraries, gardeners can “check out” free packets of seeds.

They plant the seeds, enjoy the vegetables or flowers they produce, then gather the plant’s new ripe seeds and

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return a portion of them back to the seed library. Seed libraries are as diverse as the communities they serve.

Some focus on getting the most seeds to the most people. Some offer only vegetable or wildflower seeds. Some strive to disperse culturally specific seeds. Many incorporate community, education and volunteerism into the mix. About 500 seed libraries exist in the United States, with at least 13 in Minnesota.

Checking Out My Library

I stumbled into volunteering at the White Bear Lake Seed Library a few years ago after a routine visit to my local library. A home gardener and chicken keeper, I had been learning about saving seeds on my own and had been sharing that knowledge at school and food shelf gardens where I volunteer. Helping at the seed library honed my seed-saving skills and offered a way to funnel some seeds saved from the

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Clockwise, from top: The author’s seedstoring setup; Painted Pony bean seeds; nasturtium seeds.

seeds in the dead of winter—is made easier (dare I say fun) with a group of gardeners.

In 2020, the seed library sent out a record 1,500 seed packets—so far. Many of the seeds were requested via email and fulfilled with pre-packed paper bags set out in the library parking lots because of COVID-19 restrictions. The most popular seeds for the White Bear Lake Seed Library? Tomatoes top the vegetable list, and milkweed tops the very popular native plant category.

Seed Sharing Benefits

school and food shelf gardens back into the community.

Horticulturist Pam Frink, along with two other volunteers, started the White Bear Lake Seed Library in 2016. The Ramsey County Library-White Bear Lake was both the closest public library and the one that was open to the idea of housing a seed library. With her horticulture background, Pam knew which seeds would and would not work for saving and sharing. For instance, only

heirloom and open-pollinated varieties are in the library because they grow true to type.

From the ground up, volunteers have formed the core of the local seed library. Pam has recruited volunteers at events, such as farmers’ markets. She’s held Seed Talks in person and online.

Dozens of volunteers help throughout the season, donating seeds and keeping the library organized. The most time-intensive task—the packaging of all those

Humans have been saving seeds for about 10,000 years, selecting the best, earliest, biggest and most unusual seeds to ensure better producing and better adapted crops for their families and communities. The benefits of seed saving to individual gardeners and communities are many.

Seeds grown in the same location over a few growing seasons (the number of seasons is a subject of much debate) adapt to their environment, making them better suited for growing in that specific area. Our northern climate has its own issues, so having an edge to help with our climate’s challenges makes sense.

As gardeners involved with seed libraries learn more about saving seeds and see the benefits of growing locally adapted seeds, they become natural advocates for other gardening endeavors.

The seed-saving process also addresses issues like climate change, by lowering the carbon footprint for growing and transporting seeds. You also hold onto biodiversity by keeping many different seeds in production.

With many of us waking up to the vital role diversity plays, whether in nature or communities, sharing seeds is a natural “two for one” as it fosters deeper connections with nature and our neighborhoods. There is something deeply satisfying in knowing that you are growing not only food but also seeds for future food. That satisfaction is evident in the seed library managers and volunteers.

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SEED LIBRARIES vs. SEED BANKS A seed bank’s purpose is to preserve seed stock if needed for future generations.

A seed library’s goal includes bringing seeds to gardeners, and enabling the community to keep the seed stock viable by growing it and sharing it.

A seed swap held at Seed Savers Exchange in Dechorah, Iowa

MOLLY MOE

Check Out Seed Libraries

MINNESOTA SEED LIBRARIES Central Seed Library, Hosmer Library, Minneapolis Como Seed Library, pop-up, comoseedsavers.geopoi.us Dakota County Seed Library, Farmington Public Library Do It Green!, Midtown Global Market, Minneapolis Dream of Wild Health, dreamofwildhealth.org, native seeds for native people Duluth Seed Library, Duluth Public Library 9 Mile Creek Little Free Seed Library, 12800 Gerard Dr., Eden Prairie Rochester Seed Library, Rochester Public Library West Side Seed Library, St. Paul Riverview Public Library WBL Seed Library, Ramsey County Library-White Bear Lake White Earth Seed Library, White Earth Land Recover Project, native seeds for native people Wilmar Seed Library, Pioneerland Library Winona State University Seed Bank + Library, Winona East Recreation Center —M.B.

Start a Seed Library!

Managing a seed library is a commitment to the seeds and to your community, but with volunteers, it is doable.

Start with the people. Garden clubs, master gardener groups and community garden organizations are natural seed savers. Check to see if other seed libraries exist nearby to share ideas. Then, choose your location. A well-known and often-visited public space works best, such as a community center or library.

Some seed libraries operate as “popups” or mobile libraries.

For equipment, you’ll need a physical storage system like cabinets, shelving and bins to organize seed stock. You’ll need seeds, of course, and some seed companies will make donations to get you started. Envelopes and labels complete your gear needs. Then you can

decide how you want the checkout process to go. Most seed libraries ask seed borrowers to register, which can be as simple as having a book with a borrower’s name or cards or a computer database.

To let people know about the seed lending library, you may want to create a logo, gather emails, build a website or start a Facebook page or group. Be sure to include how-to-save information for participants. You can also share seed library events and remind people to harvest seeds and when and how to bring them to the library.

What role will your local seed library fill? Would you like it to be a way to nurture relationships between novice and seasoned gardeners? Or a way to gather people to plant community spaces, grow food for a food shelf, supply

seeds to those in need—the possibilities are endless. Taking time up front to figure out the vision with your founding members will go a long way in keeping you on track.

Regardless of how you organize your seed library, it’s rewarding to know that plants are growing around town because you helped with the seed library. Watching the gardeners grow can be even more rewarding. That’s what inspires seed librarians to find new ways to get seeds into the hands of more people.

White Bear Lake-based Michelle Bruhn teaches vegetable garden design and operates the website forksinthedirt.com.

Seeds were checked out of the library in a safe manner, using curbside pickup.

Volunteers package seeds for the library.

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NORTHERN VIEW

WHAT YOU DON’T SEE… as a landscape designer, I’ve often heard customers say, “If only I knew where to plant this” or “There are too many choices; I’m overwhelmed.” It makes me think back to when I first started gardening and that aha moment that gave me the confidence to garden with ambition rather than inhibition. It was the moment I began focusing on deletion, looking for the views I saw that I did not want to see.

We had just purchased a small suburban lot, and I’d asked a family friend who owned a landscaping firm to stop by to view it and offer suggestions. As he walked into the weed disaster of a backyard, which I was fixated on, he looked at the neighbor’s yard and shuddered. There, off the fence line about 20 feet away, was a rusted-out, full-sized van.

“I’d plant an evergreen here,” he said, pointing to a spot that would block the view.

That was the moment. I hated the van and I was secretly hoping the Junk Guys would show up in their truck to take it away. But it had never occurred to me to plant a landscape to hide views that I didn’t want, to delete the negative.

With that new idea, I started looking around. What else did I not want to see?

Honestly, in this new-to-us landscape, plenty. I’d have my partner stand in different places and stretch out his arms tall or wide to see if he blocked what I wanted him to block. Then I’d measure him: arms, 5 feet wide; height, 10 feet tall.

I’d write the measurements on a paint stir stick and shove it in the ground.

Now I knew where to plant something and what size to look for. Over time, I observed the sun exposure of the area and saw how water drained. Then, I plugged that information plus the measurements off the stick into one of the many plant search engines available. (I like the one on the Bachman’s website.) With a few keystrokes, the search engine would slim down the list of possible plant options from thousands to about a dozen.

Is this the perfect solution for every landscape? No. But deciding what you don’t want to see helps you place the big

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elements in your garden, such as shrubs, trees, fences and hardscapes. Another step in the design-by-deletion process is to determine exactly where your views should be blocked from, otherwise you’ll end up with a jungle of paint sticks! As you move around your landscape, hang out in the areas you enjoy most and set your views from there. I find I spend the most time looking at my landscape from the patio table or out the kitchen window.

What do you really enjoy from these spots and what would improve the privacy or the view from these spots? You want to see the children’s play area, but not the telephone pole. OK, stick goes by the telephone pole. Start there and see where it takes you!

Here’s another benefit of design by deletion: Your plants won’t be in a straight line. The process results in a more random—or natural—placement of plants. I’m an engineer by day, so I love getting the level out and making straight edges as much as the next person. But the dirty secret about putting everything in straight lines is that they’re extremely hard to maintain. Human brains are

really good at seeing patterns and will very quickly see that something is out of place. For example, if you had a straight row of alternating shrubs arranged in a tall-shrub, short-shrub pattern and one of them died, the dead shrub would be shockingly visible. And, when you remove it, everyone would see the hole—and you would see it constantly.

A more random pattern is forgiving of holes. You will have more time to find a replacement without the next visitor saying, “What happened here?”

How do I know that? Well, that first evergreen that I planted to hide the van was dead within three years. I wasn’t smart enough at the time to check the plant hardiness zones when I chose it. Another lesson learned. I now have a glorious 'Velvet Cloak' smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria) growing and, happily, wonderful new neighbors.

Elizabeth Fischer is an engineer by education and a gardener by passion in Hopkins. Her website is gjd.io.

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