Northern Gardener - March/April 2021

8 EASY HERBS TO GROW FOR TEA

Gardener Northern

A MINNESOTA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY PUBLICATION

MARCH/APRIL 2021

15

Perennials

ADD ICEBERG TO YOUR SALAD GARDEN

for Sun or Shade BEST

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FROG-FRIENDLY GARDEN U.S. $4.99 Can. $5.99 Display until April 30

MARCH/APRIL 2021 l VOLUME 149 l NUMBER 2

Table of Contents 28

32

Friendly Frogs

Easy-going, Easy-growing Perennials

Water is the key to finding frogs in your backyard.

BY SONI FORSMAN

These 15 bloom where they’re planted. BY MICHELLE MERO RIEDEL

36 Dirt Diplomacy

Swapping seeds and veggies produces big benefits for Edina gardener.

BY GAIL BROWN HUDSON

IN EVERY ISSUE 2 Editor’s Note 4 MSHS News: Classes, calendar and more

40

Heads Up

Take your time and savor iceberg lettuce’s cold crispness. BY MEG COWDEN

44 Weedy No More

22 Garden Solutions: Privacy fast

By Laura Schwarz

BY BENJAMIN VOGT

47 Relax with these 8 herbs that make delicious infusions.

BY JENNIFER RENSENBRINK

18

By Design: Branches bring the garden inside By Diane McGann 20 Kitchen Garden: Container veggies

By Samantha Johnson

Banish a messy look (and appease cranky neighbors) with these 7 native plants.

Tea Garden

16 Northern Natives: Blue vervain (Verbena hastata) By Beth Stetenfeld

23 DIY: Spring cleanup

By Eric Johnson 24 Pollinators: Swimming bees

By Rhonda Fleming Hayes 25 Plant to Pick: Millions of million bells

By Debbie Lonnee 52 Northern View: New garden elements

By Carol Michel

ABOUT THE COVER: 'Camelot Mix' foxglove is an adaptable, back-of-the-border favorite. Photo by Michelle Mero Riedel

Superbells® Coral Sun

MSHS Board of Directors PHOTO COURTESY OF PROVEN WINNERS

Laura Wagner, Chair Del Hampton, Treasurer Mary Marrow, Secretary Jennifer Ebeling Mike Heger Debra Kvamme Renay Leone Judy MacManus Mary Hockenberry Meyer Rhys Williams

MSHS Staff A NOTE FROM

Rick Juliusson, Executive Director

The Editor

T

he saying “build it and they will come” applies to many aspects of gardening. Plant native plants and pollinators will flock to your yard.

Add a big shade tree and the birds will be nesting there. And, if you plant a restful garden in your front yard, the neighbors will probably be stopping by for a chat.

As long-time contributor Soni Forsman discovered, when you live near water and you put in a water feature you can expect an army of frogs to join you in the garden. Frogs are underappreciated creatures—they provide all-natural pest control and they are just fun to watch. Check out Soni's article on page 28 for more about bringing friendly frogs to your landscape.

I hope you read the article in our January/February 2021 issue on how to squeeze more plants into your garden, because this issue is filled with plants you are going to want to make room for—from perennials that are not picky to vegetables you’ll want to try.

Michelle Mero Riedel starts us off with a list of 15 perennials that perform well in sun or shade. These plants may

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

Lara Lau-Schommer, Community Outreach Director

prefer one or the other, but will grow no matter where you put them. Her article begins on page 32. Native plant guru Benjamin Vogt suggests seven plants that won't get floppy or messy to make your native garden one that both your neighbors and pollinators will approve of. His story starts on page 44. Jennifer Rensenbrink offers suggestions for herbs to grow for teas, beginning on page 47, and Gail Brown Hudson introduces us to an Edina gardener who loves to grow vegetables from around the world on page 36.

Finally, Debbie Lonnee focuses her Plant to Pick column (page 25) on the genus Calibrachoa—a popular annual for containers that breeders are developing in a rainbow of new colors.

I hope you enjoy the issue—and I hope you've got some extra space in your garden!

— Mary Lahr Schier, editor

Becky Swee, Communications and Marketing Director Diane Duvall, Development Director Courtney Tchida, Community Outreach and Program Manager Sue Hoehn, Administrative Support Ann Londrigan, Membership Associate Betsy Pierre, Advertising Sales Manager

Northern Gardener Magazine Mary Lahr Schier, Editor Debbie Lonnee, Horticultural Editor Julie Jensen, Copy Editor Barbara Pederson, Designer Joe Luca, Newsstand Consultant

Copyright 2021 by MSHS. Printed in the USA on recycled paper. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reprinted without permission from MSHS. The information published in Northern Gardener reflects the experiences and opinions of the writers and is not necessarily endorsed by MSHS. Northern Gardener is a registered trademark of MSHS. (ISSN) 1529-8515. Northern Gardener is published bimonthly (Jan/Feb, Mar/Apr, May/June, July/Aug, Sept/ Oct, Nov/Dec) by the Minnesota State Horticultural Society. Periodicals postage paid at St. Paul, Minn., and additional post offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Northern Gardener, 1935 County Rd. B2 W., Suite 125, Roseville, MN 55113.

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Northern Gardener l March/April 2021

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UPCOMING EVENTS

MSHS Calendar Growing Microgreens Tuesday, Feb. 23, 6:30–7:30 p.m. $40 members, $45 nonmembers Location: Your computer Instructor: Amanda Yadav, owner and operator of Fiddlehead Farm

This class is excellent for home growers who want to try some new, flavorful varieties that take a bit longer to grow (think basil, cilantro and leeks). Explore different growing mediums, such as hydroponic mats and coco coir, and learn about recommended varieties and setups. Some growing experience is recommended but not required. Class fee includes all materials needed to plant in class: two grow trays, a dome, standard grow medium, hydroponic mat, coco coir, and non-GMO seeds of basil, cilantro, leek and brassica blend.

Growing Culinary Ginger in Minnesota Thursday, March 18, 6:30–8 p.m. $25 members, $30 nonmembers Location: Your computer Instructor: Melissa Driscoll

Melissa has been successfully growing ginger outside in Minnesota for years.

Melissa will walk you through the steps she’s taken to harvest robust baby ginger and sell it commercially. She will share tips and tricks to help you succeed in your home garden. Registration includes several chunks of ginger tubers, which we will mail to your home so you can try growing them in 2021.

Ginger tubers

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

Planting for Pollinators Tuesday, March 9, 6:30–7:30 p.m. $5 members, $10 nonmembers Location: Your computer Instructor: Suzanne Wold-Burkness, entomologist and farmer

Minnesota is home to thousands of pollinators, including more than 400 native bee species. Learn about pollinating insects and which plants attract them. In addition, explore ways to incorporate native plants into your existing landscape to increase the number of pollinators.

Pollinator Conservation and Climate Action Tuesday, March 16, 6:30–7:30 p.m. $5 members, $10 nonmembers Location: Your computer Instructor: Elaine Evans, entomologist and educator

Pollinators are essential to life as we know it, due to their role as connectors, providing food for us and countless other creatures as they gather food for themselves. A million small actions result in food for the planet. We need pollinators, and pollinators need a stable climate. We will discuss actions, both small and large, we can take to conserve pollinators, stabilize climate and keep essential connections and processes moving.

Next Level Gardening for Pollinators: Nesting Habitat and Specialist Bees Tuesday, March 23, 6:30–7:30 p.m. $5 members, $10 nonmembers Location: Your computer Instructor: Julia Brokaw, doctoral student in the Cariveau Native Bee Lab at the University of Minnesota

Looking for gardening and habitat restoration tips to support nesting habitat for wild bees in your garden? Want some strategies for attracting specialist bees to your yard? We often focus on planting wildflowers for bees and pay less attention to how we can support nesting site availability and whether flower gardens support nesting habitats. Since many wild bees are specialists, they only visit certain plant species and are often in particular need of conservation support. Learn about several specialist bees in Minnesota and how you can attract them to your garden.

UPCOMING EVENTS

Sustainable Landscape Design Basics for Homeowners Workshop Saturday, March 27, 9 a.m.–4 p.m. $130 members, $135 nonmembers Registration deadline: March 13 Location: Your computer via Zoom Instructors: Julie Weisenhorn and Jim Calkins, U of M horticulturists

Celebrate Pollinators with MSHS

This intensive, full-day landscape design workshop is your opportunity to learn the theory and basic principles of sustainable landscape design and how to avoid landscape design mistakes commonly made by novices and professionals alike.

Historically offered as an in-person workshop, we have worked hard to create a compelling online offering in response to the COVID-19 pandemic. The curriculum is comprehensive and focuses on the landscape design process in a logical, step-by-step fashion to introduce the basic principles of sustainable landscape design and includes a sequence of real-world, landscape-specific exercises to provide opportunities to put pencil to paper and apply the landscape design principles and techniques that are discussed during the workshop. The principles learned during this informative workshop should get your creative juices flowing as you consider the exciting possibilities for your home landscape this spring.

Garden Planning for Beginners and Growing for Food Shelves Tuesday, April 6, 6:30–8 p.m.

Free for members, $10 nonmembers Location: Your computer Instructor: Courtney Tchida, MSHS staff

Using crop rotations (planting different crops of different families in the same place over time), companions (planting two or more crops that benefit each other) and successions (planting multiple crops in the same space over the course of the season) can maximize your productivity and minimize potential pests, diseases and weeds. We will look at each of these concepts in-depth, which will help you create a cohesive plan for your growing space in the coming season and beyond.

Planting a Garden with Seed Saving in Mind Tuesday, April 13, 6:30–8 p.m. $20 members, $25 nonmembers Location: Your computer Instructor: Courtney Tchida, MSHS staff

The process of saving seeds starts with planting the right seeds for saving. In this class, you’ll learn the steps needed to grow a successful crop and save seeds in the process.

Growing your own seeds can create crops that are fine-tuned to your microclimate and it also helps to protect the biodiversity and specific traits of the varieties you love best. Learn which plants are easy to save seeds from and which require more attention.

Learn how to keep plants healthy throughout the growing season and how to scout for and identify problems in plants so they won't affect your seed harvest. Registration includes a seed-saving kit with exclusion bags and seed-saving envelopes.

See all upcoming classes at northerngardener.org/webinars.

Pollinators need our help more than ever, and MSHS is providing new ways to learn about these important (and increasingly threatened) creatures, on whom we depend for a third of the world’s food supply. In March, we will host three connected online classes (see opposite page) on supporting pollinators in your yard and garden.

Register for all three pollinator classes and we'll send you a link to watch Wings of Life, a documentary from Disneynature, narrated by Meryl Streep. You can also purchase a ticket to watch the film. Full of intrigue, drama and mesmerizing beauty, the film provides an intimate look at butterflies, hummingbirds, bees, bats and flowers. You’ll see these creatures in action thanks to high-resolution, high-speed cinematography. Sign up for our follow-up question-andanswer session with a panel of local experts on pollinators after the film. To learn more, visit northerngardener.org/plant-forpollinators.

Northern Gardener l March/April 2021

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UPCOMING EVENTS

Community Events Virtual Tour of the University of Minnesota Biological Sciences Conservatory Men’s and Women’s Garden Club of Minneapolis Tuesday, March 9, 7:30-8:30 p.m.

Lake Harriet United Methodist Church, 4901 Chowen Ave. S., Minneapolis (tentative).

Join us to explore the plants of the Southern Hemisphere. Lisa Philander, curator of the University of Minnesota College of Biological Sciences Conservatory and Botanical Collection, will take you through the rooms of the new conservatory as we look at fascinating plants of yesterday and today.

For more information and the most up-to-date meeting site (including virtual meeting information), visit gardenclubmpls.org/calendar/events.

Colombian Orchid Reserve Orchid Society of Minnesota Saturday, March 20, 1-3 p.m.

Presenter Duane McDowell has registered 100 orchid hybrids and won many prizes, including an Award of Distinction and an Award of Quality from the American Orchid Society. He is the author of The Orchid Picture Book (Cynpat Lithography, 1996), which includes hundreds of photographs of Colombian orchid species.

Contact: orchidsocietyofminnesota@gmail.com for the meeting link.

Stone Hollow Gardens and Shroomery Grant County, Wisconsin Master Gardeners Thursday, March 25, 6:30–7:30 p.m.

Join us for this presentation on soil health through the use of mycelium. Presenters Christopher and Emily Appelman of Stone Hollow Gardens and Shoomery will discuss bioremediation and mycoremediation to build nutrient-rich soil and grow nutrient-dense foods. This is a free virtual event, registration required.

Contact: lori.vesperman@wisc.edu or grantcountymastergardeners.weebly.com.

A Year in the Life of an Urban Dahlia Grower Men’s and Women’s Garden Club of Minneapolis Tuesday, April 13, 7:30-8:30 p.m.

Join us as Del Hampton (known as Dahlia Del) shares his story of installing a dahlia garden at the Minnesota State Fair and the process and supplies used to grow dahlias. Hampton grows dahlias in the Prospect Park neighborhood garden and in Twin Cities community gardens.

For more information and meeting site, visit gardenclubmpls. org/calendar/events.

New Orchids at the Arboretum Orchid Society of Minnesota Saturday, April 17, 1-3 p.m.

Presenter David Remucal is the curator of endangered plants at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, where he developed the arboretum’s plant conservation program. The reach of the program now includes restoration of rare plants, banking and restoration of native orchids, and education and promotion of native plant usage around the state.

Contact: orchidsocietyofminnesota@gmail.com for the meeting link.

find a full list of community events at northerngardener.org/calendar.

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

UPCOMING EVENTS

New Dates for Minneapolis Home and Garden Show the 2021 minneapolis home and garden show, originally scheduled for March 3-7, will now take place April 28 – May 2 at the Minneapolis Convention Center. Although later than usual, this Twin Cities tradition is moving forward as an in-person event— visit our booth to stock up on bulbs, tubers and bare root plants. Find more information and volunteer opportunities online: northerngardener.org/spring-gardenshows.

Spring Garden Gala Goes Virtual ready for a plant fashion show?

Our annual Spring Garden Gala will be going virtual this spring! Watch our e-newsletter and website for more information coming soon. Visit northerngardener.org/garden-gala to learn more.

ABOUT MSHS

Director’s Note

i love that i was born in march, in such a season of rebirth and hope. As we eclipse a year of the pandemic, was there ever a better time to garden? To burst outside after a long winter, grow our own food and beauty, create community and feel healthy?

Thanks to Northern Gardener articles and some great webinars, my wife and I are not starting from scratch. Our dining room is full of seedlings eager to be moved outside, and 40 milk jugs of new growth overwintered in the snow out back. We have two dozen packets of veggie and flower seeds saved last season from our favorite plants (and our neighbors’ favorites). Another swath of our front lawn was turned over last fall, soon to be a “bee garden” with native grasses and flowers to attract pollinators. In this our third spring in Minnesota, gardening has transformed from a seasonal event to an annual cycle.

Whether you are mid-cycle or at the starting line raring to go, MSHS is primed to support our expanding community. Enjoy our packed spring class lineup, enter the photo contest and visit us at the Minneapolis Home and Garden Show to pick up some bulbs. Please also join our pollinator campaign, including a film screening, webinars and Pollinator Paks™ sales. And if you’re a Society member, enjoy discounts with our growing list of Discount Partners. (See insert next to this page.)

Here’s to a new season of health, rebirth and growing, together.

CULTIVATING

communities.

CREATING

green spaces.

ENCOURAGING

growth.

Donate Today Support our two signature programs bringing gardening and healthy food to families and children throughout Minnesota. To join us, visit northerngardener.org.

— Rick Juliusson (he/him) Executive Director MINNESOTA GREEN promotes grassroots efforts to cultivate public green spaces and create community.

Become a Society Member Our members enjoy valuable gardening resources and support important community programs that bring plants to public green spaces and gardening education to underserved communities across the state. Membership benefits include: Northern Gardener magazine Free gardening webinars Garden center discounts Classes & events see the full list of benefits and sign up at northerngardener.org/membership.

GARDEN-IN-A-BOX brings vegetable garden kits to underserved children, giving our youngest gardeners the chance to experience the benefits (and joys!) of growing.

Get in Touch Minnesota State Horticultural Society 1935 County Rd. B2 West, Suite 125 Roseville, MN 55113-1334 Phone: (651) 643-3601 Website: northerngardener.org Email: info@northerngardener.org

@MNHORT

Northern Gardener l March/April 2021

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THIS SEASON IN THE GARDEN

TIPS & TRICKS FOR YOUR

early spring garden plan for new plants

start seeds indoors

try winter sowing

Make a list of must-grow varieties, including superstars from years past and new finds to try—don’t forget natives and plants that attract pollinators.

Cold-climate gardeners benefit from getting a headstart on growing tomato, pepper, eggplant and ground cherry plants. Use grow lights and seed-starting mix for sturdy plants.

Outside gardening doesn’t have to grind to a halt during the long winter months. Craft miniature greenhouses out of recyclable jugs you have on hand, place them outdoors and dig in.

grow sweet potatoes

start cool-season crops indoors

postpone garden cleanup

MARCH

Grab an organic, blemish-free sweet potato from your nearest grocery store, nearly cover it with soil in a shallow tray over a heating mat, keep the soil moist and look for sprouts in three to five weeks.

With a four-week jumpstart, lettuce, broccoli and cabbage will sprout and be ready for transplanting outdoors in May when the threat of frost has passed.

Consider this your permission slip! Give overwintering insects time to wake up by waiting until mid-May to cut back plants and compost debris.

APRIL

Planning for Pollinators As you dream about this season’s garden, keep in mind the importance of planting natives and attracting pollinators.

Native plants are adapted to our local climate and soil conditions, so they require fewer resources and less supplemental watering to thrive. Plus, many natives encourage biodiversity and support dwindling pollinator populations. When you plant native varieties, you help pollinators by: Providing rich food sources such as pollen, nectar, seeds and fruit.

Creating habitat for nesting bees, egg-laying butterflies and overwintering insects.

Reducing toxins by eliminating the need for pesticides, insecticides, herbicides and non-organic fertilizers.

Whether you plant a couple coneflowers in containers, start a new native plant bed or convert your entire yard to a bee lawn (less time behind a mower? Yes, please!), together we can have a tremendous impact on bees, hummingbirds, butterflies, moths and other pollinators. Helping pollinators also improves the health and productivity of our gardens. to learn more about native varieties and planting for pollinators, visit northerngardener.org/resource-hub.

“

If half of American lawns were replaced with native plants, we would create the equivalent of a 20-millionacre national park—nine times bigger than Yellowstone or 100 times bigger than Shenandoah National Park.”

–doug tallamy nature’s best hope (timber press, 2020)

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

Here’s to the tickle of grass between your toes, games that can be played with a drink in hand, and a fireworks display of amazingly colorful blooms.

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Northern Gardener l March/April 2021

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MSHS NEWS

MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS

Unlock Discounts When You Shop As your garden planning turns into shopping for plants, seeds, soil and tools, check out our new and returning Discount Partners for 2021 in this issue’s special insert (between pages 6 and 7).

All Society and Affiliated members of MSHS receive a discount membership card to shop with our partners for plants, seeds, tools, wine and more!

• Not a member? Join today at northerngardener.org/membership.

• Don’t see your favorite garden center on the list? Tell us who to reach out to by emailing membership@northerngardener. org or calling 651-643-3601.

ADVERTISERS AM950 Food Freedom Radio............ 13 Bachman’s.................. Inside front cover Countryside Gardens........................... 51 COWSMO, INC....................................... 21 Creekside Soils...................................... 19 Egg/Plant Urban Farm Supply........... 50 Endless Summer Hydrangeas..............9 Farm Fresh Selects............................... 21 Gardens of Rice Creek........................ 50 Gertens.................................................... 15 Heidi's Growhaus.................................. 19 Holasek Flower Power Garden Center.50 Home Sown Gardens.......................... 50 Jean's - The Right Plant Place............ 51 Kelley and Kelley Nursery................... 51 Kern Landscape Resources............... 50 Knecht's Nurseries & Landscaping... 51 Maxwell's Woodland Nursery............. 51 Morning Sky Greenery......................... 51 Find Digital Card FAQs online 50 Mother Earth Gardens. ........................ northerngardener.org/membershipOsmocote. ..............................

Back cover card-faqs or call us for assistance Plaisted Companies...............................17 at 651-643-3601.

Proven Winner Color Choice................3 Schulte's Greenhouse & Nursery...... 51 Squire House Gardens....................... 50 Sustane.......................Inside back cover Terrace Horticultural Books............... 50 UW River Falls Horticulture................. 51 Winter Greenhouse............................... 51 Yardware................................................. 50

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

April is National Gardening Month and BOGO is Back in honor of national gardening month, we are offering a gift membership when you join or renew at the Society level during April. Take advantage of this special offer to share your love of gardening with a friend, family member, neighbor or coworker and help them learn to grow!

How it works: • Join or renew at the Society level at northerngardener.org/membership between April 1 and April 30.

• Email membership@northerngardener.org with the name, mailing and email address of your gift recipient. Be sure to provide your first and last name in your email.

• We will register your lucky recipient for a Society membership and send them an email notification to help them unlock their benefits.

Where’s My Card?

Check your inbox for emails from membership@northerngardener.org.

When you renew at the Society or Affiliated membership levels, you’ll receive an email confirmation with a copy of your member card at the bottom of the email. You can print the email or take a photo of it on your smartphone for quick reference.

You can also go green with us and download a digital membership card to your Apple Wallet on the iPhone or Wallet Pass from Google Play on Android phones. For more information, visit northerngardener.org/membership-card-faqs.

MSHS NEWS

MSHS FUNDRAISING

Target Stores Supports MSHS Programs When You Shop shop at target now through march 31 and help us raise funds to build green communities, teach underserved children and families to garden, and feed hungry Minnesotans.

How it works: 1• Visit target.com/circle to join the Target Circle.

2• Choose your qualifying store, Roseville T1, or enter zip code 55113 and choose the Roseville T1 store.

3 • Shop at any Target store or online at target.com/circle.

• Go to your account at target.com/circle and cast your vote for the Minnesota 4 State Horticultural Society listed among select nonprofits. Each purchase counts as one vote.

• Target Corp. donates to MSHS based on the number of votes we receive.

5 In 2020, we collected over 70,000 votes and raised over $5,500. Please consider helping us exceed that goal this year—let’s grow more gardeners together.

for more ways to support mshs, visit northerngardener.org/support.

#GREATGARDENING CONTEST2021 We had so much fun with this online photo contest in 2020, we decided to do it again! Join our second annual Great Gardening Contest, kicking off July 5. Amateur gardeners in Minnesota, Wisconsin, North and South Dakota and Iowa are encouraged to submit photos for this online contest. It’s a fun way to engage with other gardeners and share the spaces and plants you love. Keep an eye on our website and social media channels (@mnhort) for tips for capturing your gardens in the very best light.

For updates and more information, visit northerngardener.org/greatgardening-contest.

Mark Kinney (@markfk59 on Instagram) shared this lovely shot of a garden with the Minneapolis skyline in our 2020 photo contest.

Northern Gardener l March/April 2021

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MSHS NEWS

MEMBER SPOTLIGHT

Susan Peterson “i am blessed to have everything i need, so supporting the society is my way of passing on my good fortune,” says Susan Peterson, MSHS member.

Susan understands communities in need. After retiring from teaching for 42 years in 2011, she returned as a substitute teacher for the AnokaHennepin School System, the state’s largest. “I taught many low-income children in this school system—too many,” she says. “Everyone deserves a chance at success.”

Gardening is Susan’s passion, so she is dedicated to providing gardening opportunities to underserved children and families. “I love the Garden-in-aBox program,” she says. “Gardening brings so much joy.”

Growing Up Gardening Susan grew up in Golden Valley but learned to garden at her grandmother’s Northeast Minneapolis house, where her grandmother’s motto was “vegetables in the backyard and flowers in front.” Her mother canned the fruits and vegetables, which provided much of the family’s food. Today, Susan and her husband, Pete, are mixing veggies and flowers, front and backyard, at their home in Blaine and at a cabin in Annandale. “I believe in no-till gardening, growing edibles on a trellis to keep the deer and rabbits out and using compost for the best results,” she says.

After retiring from full-time teaching, Susan decided to build on her gardening expertise and applied to become a University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener. “I was always getting expert advice from master gardeners so I decided to become one,” she says. Two years later, she wanted to join a larger

Thank You, Joel Kartsen

“

We joined the Heirloom Circle because the society connects people when they need it most.”

– susan peterson

gardening community and was advised to become a member of the hort society for its educational offerings and community connections.

“I checked out the MSHS website,” she says, “and immediately thought, ‘These are my people!’ ” Susan quickly joined the MSHS Minnesota Green program for its plant donations. “I believe in effecting positive change through active engagement so I’m managing several public gardens supported by this program,” she says.

Giving Back When things started closing down during the pandemic last year, Susan and her husband decided to include the hort society in their estate plan and joined the MSHS Heirloom Circle. She says that in spite of all the challenges with social distancing, MSHS continued to get its programs out into the gardening community.

“Masks on and 6 feet apart, they were there for gardeners,” she says.

“We joined the Heirloom Circle because the society connects people when they need it most.”

to learn more, visit northerngardener.org/heirloom-circle.

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

looking for a model of board contribution and commitment? Look no further than our outgoing Vice-Chair Joel Karsten, who has rotated off the MSHS board after two three-year terms.

In those six years, Joel missed only one meeting. As author of the breakthrough book Straw Bale Gardening (Karsten Publishing, 2012), he is a popular speaker worldwide, making this commitment to MSHS particularly remarkable.

Joel has contributed to the mission and culture of MSHS in myriad ways. His entrepreneurial skills helped focus and grow our digital communications and sponsorship efforts. He is the consistent driver of our plans to create an annual event to generate partnerships, training and program funds. And, Joel bakes the most delicious cupcakes to welcome new staff. As Lara Lau-Schommer, community outreach director, notes, “He has been our cheerleader through thick and thin. He shows up at events, applauds us when we’re hitting the mark and provides constructive criticism when needed. Always gently.”

Thank you, Joel, for all the ways you have strengthened MSHS.

New Board Members Sought While nobody can replace Joel, we are looking to expand our board of directors. We are particularly working to expand the diversity and representation on our team, including among the BIPOC (Black, indigenous, people of color) community, younger and new gardeners, and people living in Greater Minnesota. If you know someone with a penchant for service and relevant skills to share, such as communications, racial justice, finance or others, please contact Executive Director Rick Juliusson, at rick@northerngardener.org.

COMMUNITY CONNECTIONS

Registration Open for Garden-in-a-Box, Minnesota Green Programs ready to grow with us in 2021? Registration for the two MSHS signature gardening programs is open. Interested schools, community gardens and other organizations can sign up for the programs at northerngardener.org.

The Garden-in-a-Box (GIAB) program helps children, adults and families learn how to garden and grow fresh food. Each year, we distribute more than 500 gardening kits, which include plants, soil, fertilizer, raised beds and growing resources to more than 80 organizations in Minnesota. GIAB reaches thousands of children, adults and families each year. In 2021, GIAB is expanding to help even more organizations working with youth, families, elderly and those in treatment to grow pollinator gardens and culturally relevant foods. You can apply online by March 24 to participate in our 2021 GIAB program at northerngardener.org/giab.

Minnesota Green cultivates public green spaces and promotes community gardening, connecting people and helping neighbors grow healthy food. In this program, generous greenhouses, garden centers and individuals donate plants, seeds, gardening tools and supplies. MSHS distributes these items to community and public gardens. Over more than 30 years, hundreds of community gardens have benefited from Minnesota Green. If you are part of a public or community garden, visit northerngardener.org/minnesota-green to learn more.

Northern Gardener l March/April 2021

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MSHS NEWS

COMMUNITY CONNECTIONS

The Open Door Garden to Table Pantry Garden to Table manager Alpa Goswami at one of the community garden sites

the open door pantry, a nonprofit hunger relief organization, is working hard to eradicate hunger in Dakota County. Its Garden to Table

program tackles the problem two ways. It has giving gardens, which are cultivated by churches, schools and businesses with produce donated to The Open Door Pantry. It also offers garden plots for Open Door clients.

These gardeners receive free plants and seeds, access to tools, water, mulch and access to a master gardener who can answer questions.

As a proud supporter of this program for the past three years, MSHS assists Garden to Table through our signature Minnesota Green program. “Minnesota Green

WHAT PEOPLE SAY ABOUT OPEN DOOR

“

My biggest takeaway is when you grow something yourself it tastes better than anything you can buy in a grocery store.”

– THOMAS HANSEN, GARDEN TO TABLE GARDENER, HERBALIST AND ARTIST

“

I am more excited about being involved with The Open Door than any other volunteering that I might still be involved in.”

– SHELLEY DEBORD, DAKOTA COUNTY MASTER GARDENER AND GARDEN TO TABLE VOLUNTEER

helps us supply clients and volunteers with thousands of seeds and hundreds of plants each season,” says Garden to Table manager Alpa Goswami. “MSHS provides healthy and nutritious vegetables that are hard to find and culturally specific to many of our clients’ needs.”

During the pandemic, Open Door began offering drive-through food distributions to keep volunteers and clients safe. In 2020, 709 clients picked up 15,000 pounds of fresh food from 11 garden sites. Open Door also received 34,000 pounds of food donations from giving gardens last year, thanks to many volunteers who donated more than 26,595 hours in 2020 alone.

In 2021, MSHS is proud to continue supporting Garden to Table and help our neighbors access healthy food. If you live in Dakota County and are struggling to afford fresh, nutritious food, you can visit theopendoorpantry.org and apply for a plot for 2021. If you grow food and would like to donate or volunteer, visit the same website or contact Alpa at alpag@ theopendoorpantry.org.

“

Even though we have food insecurity, and it is increasing, it doesn’t have to be. We can choose to create a community in a different way, so everyone has an abundant supply of food.”

– VICKI,

to learn more about giab and minnesota green, visit northerngardener.org/community-programs.

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

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15

NORTHERN NATIVES

for a graceful, yet sturdy, plant that attracts pollinators of all types and blooms reliably through most of the summer, consider Verbena hastata. The small, stacked blue-violet flowers begin to form in early summer, soon after the plant’s lacy foliage has spiked from the soil. Its other common names include blue verbena, swamp verbena and simpler’s joy.

Like its related species in the Verbenaceae family, blue vervain features clusters of small flowers; in this case, they form spikes, pointing upward like candlesticks. The color of blue vervain is unique: ranging from light periwinkle to violet. Most other native Verbena spp. have white, pink or lavender flowers.

This and some other verbenas are larval host plants for the common buckeye butterfly and the verbena moth. Pollinators include other butterflies and moths, hummingbirds, some wasps, flies and beetles, as well as long- and short-tongued bees, bumblebees, honeybees, and the verbena bee, a specialist pollinator. A long-lived nectar and pollen source, blue vervain blooms into early fall.

Blue vervain has a tall, elegant form, making it an attractive anchor plant at the back of a border or massed in swaths in a naturalized garden. It can serve similar purposes in vases—either complementing showier cut flowers, bunched in a single-species display, or as a small bouquet or single stem in a bud vase. Flowers open from the bottom to the top, a few at a time.

The blue-violet shade of the flowers pairs well in the garden with yellow and orange blooms, such as zinnias, nasturtiums and marigolds. Native plants with similar growing conditions work well, too, including coneflowers, asters, rudbeckias and tickseed (Coreopsis). To protect from rabbit nibbling, consider adding alliums or mint family plants to the mix.

Aside from occasional rabbit consumption, blue vervain is relatively pest-resistant. Other mammals avoid it, and healthy plants have no serious insect or disease issues. It thrives in soils of all types—from alkaline to acidic, and clay to sand, if adequately watered. Salt-tolerance is moderate. Light requirements range from full sun to partial shade.

A short-lived perennial or biennial, blue vervain easily self-seeds, generally assuring it will continue in a garden area after it is established. To collect seeds for later planting, bag seed heads to capture ripening seeds or cut dried seed heads, remove seeds and plant elsewhere. Seeds can be direct sown in the fall or winter before snowfall, stratified indoors and then planted in pots for transplanting or sown outdoors after the last frost. Seeds need sunlight to grow, so they should be planted with no or very light cover.

While delicate and graceful in appearance, blue vervain is a tough, reliable, adaptable grower with a flower color that is unusual and beautiful.

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

BETH STETENFELD

Blue vervain (Verbena hastata)

At a Glance: Blue Vervain Hardiness: USDA Zone 3.

Native Habitat: Habitats include moist meadows, woodland edges, wetland borders and low prairies throughout North America.

Size: 2 to 6 feet tall; 1 to 2½ feet wide.

Site: Prefers full to partial sun, moist conditions and silt/ loam to clay soils; will tolerate sandy soils with adequate moisture.

Propagation: Seed requires cool- to cold-moist stratification. Sow seeds in fall, winter or spring—on top of soil; seeds need light to germinate. To propagate from cuttings, place short stem cuttings in rooting medium and transplant after a few weeks.

Cultivars and Other Species: Several other Verbena species are also native to Minnesota, including V. stricta, V. bracteata, V simplex, and V. urticifolia. The larger family is Verbenaceae. V. hastata cultivars include ‘Blue Spires’, ‘Rosea’ and ‘Alba’.

—B.R.S. Native-plant enthusiast Beth Stetenfeld is a garden blogger and writer, and a master naturalist volunteer and instructor.

BY DESIGN

Branches Bring the Garden Inside because it reminds me of my childhood in southern Michigan, I always have forsythia in my garden. Like many flowering trees and shrubs, it offers a double benefit—the introduction to spring outdoors and an earlier spring indoors when I force the branches into bloom. Forsythia’s bright yellow blooms herald the gardening season at a time when we’re all oh-so-ready for it. I get a preview of that show by bringing stems inside a month or two earlier, placing them in water and waiting for the blooms. I can’t think of a more economical way to boost spirits after a long winter.

It’s possible to force branches as early as January, so long as they’ve had the requisite six to eight weeks of dormancy. However, the earlier in the season you cut them, the longer they’ll take to flower. Luckily, late winter is also an excellent time to prune trees and large shrubs, so you will get an extra benefit from harvesting branches in late winter. specimens, as this helps the branches You can see the open framework of the force more readily. Scope out the shrub plant, which will help or tree, and choose you to shape it nicely your cuttings from so that it looks even a crowded section MORE PLANTS TO FORCE better in the spring or a side you don’t beautybush l birch l crabapple when it blooms. Begin ordinarily see. You flowering quince l fothergilla with forsythia, cornewant your plant to magnolia l mock orange l pear lian cherry dogwood, have a pleasing shape witch hazel and pussy poplar l redbud l red maple l spirea and balanced flower—D.M. ing when it buds out willow in late February. A few weeks later, in spring. For best cut branches from results, look for serviceberry, apple multiple fat buds on younger branches. and azalea plants. Honeysuckle, lilac The narrow, pointed buds usually and spirea are best forced in late March indicate a leaf rather than a flower. If or early April. Think of the order in uncertain, you can unfold the bud to see which these plants bloom outdoors, and what’s inside. plot your stem cutting accordingly.

Inside Treatment Collecting Specimens

Early-blooming shrubs and trees form their flower and catkin buds the previous summer and fall. After six to eight weeks of cold weather, they are capable of opening inside. Choose a sunny, above-freezing day to collect your

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

Back indoors, soak your cuttings overnight in cool water in a large container or bathtub. This helps the buds break dormancy more quickly. Then, recut the stems diagonally, and place your branches upright in a container. Add water and remove any buds that are

Yellow twig dogwood and pussy willow are early options for spring forcing.

submerged. I like to place my vase of cuttings where I can see it often, so that I can watch the buds grow and pop open. It’s best to keep the branches in bright, but indirect, light. Don’t place them near a heat source or in full sun.

As with other flower arrangements, change the water regularly to retard bacteria growth. Misting and cool temperatures will help the stems look their best and last longer.

How Long Until Bloom?

Forced branches will take one to five weeks to open, depending on when they were harvested and the species you’ve chosen. Forsythias and willows tend to open fairly quickly, while lilacs, rhododendrons and azaleas can take up to five weeks. Although you’ll usually have success, don’t get discouraged if your branches don’t open; just put them on the compost pile and take some new cuttings.

For a late winter and spring filled with indoor blooms, cut a variety of branches every week or so. If your yard

PHOTOS: DIANE MCGANN

When to Force

A forced magnolia bloom

doesn’t offer the specimens you desire, ask your family and friends if you can prune their shrubs, and cut some branches for them while you’re at it.

Then, you and they can enjoy an early indoor spring without spending a dime for the dazzling show.

Diane McGann is a Stillwater-based master gardener and awardwinning garden writer.

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19

KITCHEN GARDEN

Container Veggies

Many cherry tomatoes grow well in containers.

when we think of container plants, we tend to think of flowers and herbs. Good news! Growing veggies in containers is easier than you might think.

Why grow in containers? Maybe you’re looking for practical ways to extend your growing season, or maybe your main vegetable space is in a community garden and you’d like to be able to grow a few vegetables closer to home. Or your garden is on a deck or balcony. Or maybe you like the decorative appeal of containers. Vegetable plants tend to be somewhat enthusiastic in their growth, and while it’s hard to envision an 8-foot rattlesnake pole bean in a container, many vegetables will happily thrive in pots.

Container Care

First, recognize the limitations of vegetable production in containers. While they will produce, it won’t be to the level that you could achieve in a larger garden plot. Still, it’s handy to be able to quickly harvest a handful of cherry tomatoes or a bell pepper while you’re making dinner, even if it’s a smaller harvest overall.

As with any plant, choose a container that is appropriate for the vegetable you wish to grow. Try not to underestimate the size that the fully mature plant will need, and this also applies to the depth of the container. Root vegetables, such as carrots, will need ample depth in order to achieve their full size. Whenever possible, err on the side of the container being larger than you need, rather than smaller.

And here’s the part I can’t emphasize enough: water, water, water. Containers dry out quickly, and you might be surprised at the amount of water necessary to keep your container veggies hydrated. In the heat of the summer months, you’ll want to check the containers daily.

Don’t forget the usual vegetable-growing considerations like sun, soil and weeding. These are all equally (or even more) important for container plants.

What to Grow

“

It’s not a vegetable, but here’s a quick shout-out to Fernleaf dill! This dwarf dill variety was an All-America Selections winner in 1992, and it’s ideal for container growth.”

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

Fernleaf dill

PHOTOS: ALL-AMERICA SELECTIONS; MARY LAHR SCHIER (TOP)

Now what about specific varieties? Happily, there are endless veggies suitable for container growth—and seed and plant companies are offering more varieties every year.

Red Robin tomatoes spring to mind first. I might not have believed it if I hadn’t grown them myself, but this diminutive tomato plant truly produces a spectacularly abundant crop. It’s especially remarkable when you consider the plant’s extremely compact size—8 to 12 inches.

You’ll also want to try Tom Thumb peas. Unlike many peas that require trellising and plenty of garden space, Tom Thumb is an heirloom dwarf variety that typically stays under 12 inches, making it a perfect choice for containers.

Think you need ample garden space to grow summer squash? Think again.

Golden Star hybrid yellow zucchini exhibits compact growth habits and is the perfect choice if you want to grow zucchini in a more limited space.

It’s not a vegetable, but here’s a quick shout-out to Fernleaf dill! This dwarf dill variety was an All-America Selections winner in 1992, and it’s ideal for container growth.

Just because most cucumbers have a propensity to crawl and sprawl throughout the garden doesn’t mean that you can’t make them work in containers. With the right variety, such as Spacemaster, and perhaps a trellis for the cukes to climb on, you can successfully grow cucumbers in containers. Potatoes are another great option—just choose containers with plenty of depth!

And don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t grow corn in a container, because you absolutely can. Will it be “knee-high by the Fourth of July,” like the adage promises? Probably not. But Blue Jade corn is an exquisite variety that is compact and perfect for life in a container. It’s another of my favorites.

With container vegetables, the sky’s the limit.

Wisconsin-based Samantha Johnson is the author of several books, including Garden DIY, (CompanionHouse Books, 2020). Visit her online portfolio at samanthajohnson.contently. com.

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GARDEN SOLUTIONS

covid-19 pushed everyone outside more than usual last year, and an interesting side effect of that was that everyone was seeing their neighbors more frequently. And, even when we love our neighbors, it’s nice to have some privacy.

Fast-growing plants that can create structure and shade in our gardens are the best way to increase privacy quickly.

Even if you don’t necessarily desire privacy or shade, it’s great to have a few fast-growing plants, especially when you’re just starting out and want to fill your garden quickly.

Trees and Shrubs

Trees and shrubs, while ultimately the best barriers, will also take the longest to grow. Most evergreens, which provide year-round coverage, aren’t particularly speedy growers. If you plant a grove or hedge this spring, it might be several years before even the fastest-growing trees and shrubs meet your expectations.

Fast-growers often need a lot of water to produce all their new growth, so make sure you can commit to regular watering throughout the growing season.

For trees, especially evergreens, this means watering until the ground freezes, usually in mid-November.

If you’re looking for fast-growing trees, white pine (Pinus strobus) and quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides) can grow more than 24 inches each year once they’re established. Various birch species (Betula sp.) and red maple (Acer rubrum) will grow 13 to 24 inches each season. Some tree cultivars have columnar forms, which makes them perfect for small urban spaces. Look for the ‘Fastigiata’ white pine, ‘Armstrong’ red maple, and Parkland Pillar® or Dakota Pinnacle® birches.

Willow (Salix sp.), dogwood (Cornus sp.), hedge cotoneaster (Cotoneaster lucidus) and Forsythia are some of the fastest growers in the shrub category.

They’re also easy to maintain. Even though these species get quite large at maturity, you can control them by cutting them back to the ground each

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

PHOTO COURTESY OF PROVEN WINNERS

Privacy Fast

Arctic Fire® dogwood forms a loose hedge.

spring. They each have strong seasonal qualities as well. Forsythia is one of the earliest bloomers, with bright yellow flowers appearing almost before the snow disappears. Cotoneaster and dogwood have berries for wildlife as well as beautiful bright leaves in fall. For season-long interest, plant flame willow or red- and yellow-twigged dogwood— these shrubs have stunning hot-colored stems in winter.

While You Wait

As your shrubs and trees mature, consider a combination of fast-growing perennials, annuals and vines. In full sun and with regular watering, many annuals can go from seed to towering plant in a matter of months. Seed-grown sunflower (Helianthus sp.), Mexican sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia), castor bean (Ricinus communis) and various Amaranthus species will easily produce 6 feet of growth in a single growing season.

Perennials such as joe-pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum), cup plant (Silphium perfoliatum), Culver’s root (Veronicastrum virginicum) and tall meadow rue (Thalictrum sp.) will take a few seasons to reach their full potential.

However, as soon as they mature, they reliably reach heights of 5 to 7 feet each year. These plants are all sun-loving Minnesota natives with a hefty presence in the perennial border. I have tall meadow rue planted along my property line, and I really like how its airy flowers

form a rather translucent wall between my gardens and the neighbor’s house.

It’s private without being overpowering.

If you have or can build a structure for them to climb on, vines are an excellent option for screening and shade. You don’t need anything fancy to create a trellis—string or wire tied to your house or garage will work nicely.

I’ve seen everything from dry branches to wired-together bicycle wheels serve as successful trellises.

Some perennial vines, such as hops (Humulus lupulus) and sweet autumn clematis (Clematis terniflora, sometimes called C. paniculata), can produce more than 20 feet of growth in a single growing season. These super vines are perfect for quickly enclosing an area under a pergola or along a fence.

For more temporary vine situations, try annuals such as morning glories (Ipomoea sp.) or many different varieties of pole beans (Phaseolus sp.), including the highly decorative scarlet runner bean. Although they don’t get as large as their perennial counterparts, they will effectively and quickly cover trellises in the 6-foot range.

Horticulturist Laura Schwarz lives in Minneapolis, where she works in garden design, installation and maintenance.

DIY

Spring Cleanup

My Favorite Tool

It’s a plain old, serrated chef’s knife. If you’re familiar with the Japanese hori-hori knife, mine is a more everyday take on that. I’ve found no quicker, easier way to cut down ornamental grasses and many perennials than grabbing sections of them like a ponytail and sawing them off with my chef’s knife. It’s small enough to trim small succulents and tough enough to saw through sunflower stalks. The knife also works great later in the season to tackle weeds in sidewalk cracks, along garden paths and around rocks.

And on the subject of ornamental grasses, they are the first thing I cut down in the spring. Sedge and ‘Karl Foerster’ grass sprout early and it’s heartbreaking to cut off new growth so I try to get to it as early as possible.

The Best Tool May Be No Tool

I’m always testing dead foliage to see what can be removed with just a few twists and turns. I find it easiest to snap Autumn Joy sedum stems off at the base. Daylily stems pull out easily and the spent leaves come out when I rake them with my gloved fingers. Blue fescue grass can also be raked out with your fingers. Lily stems crack off easily and I leave a foot or two of the stem to remind me where the little sprouts will emerge.

Globe thistle, phlox and some miscanthus grasses can also be cracked and twisted off.

A Rake’s Progress

I use a metal leaf rake to round out my garden bed cleaning.

With a light sweeping motion, making numerous passes, I gently brush the garden bed to pick up scattered leaves and any leftover plant parts.

A metal-tined rake really is the broom of the garden. It nicely finishes the bed cleanup and is gentle on shrubs and emerging plants. This rake is an especially effective tool for cleaning out spent leaves in the hosta bed. The little horns of the emerging plants come later, I have found, so it’s easy to get to them before any damage can ensue.

The Dreaded Leaf Blower

No one likes the noise, so I do my best to limit its use. And, I don’t actually use

the blower function on my machine.

My model vacuums, too, which is what I do and I love it. It mulches the leaves as it sucks them up, greatly reducing the mass. Then, I use the mulch in the garden beds. I also bag some for pickup, using far fewer bags. Raking the leaves into small, shallow piles accelerates the process. The leaves need to be dry to vacuum them.

What Goes Where

While many mulched leaves get spread on garden beds to suppress weeds, retain moisture and add nutrients, some are bagged and hauled away. I also add a layer of leaves to the compost bin.

I spread ornamental grass trimmings toward the back of the beds as mulch.

Most of the removed perennials and annuals get bagged for disposal. Many waste removal systems require compostable bags and much waste is sent off to community composting sites, making the choice to bag an easier one.

I used to find a home for all of the plant debris in the yard by mulching and adding to the compost bin, but it got to be too much for the bin and did not leave any room for additions throughout the season. Now I maintain a balance of recycling in the yard and sending debris to the compost site.

Minneapolis-based gardener and writer Eric Johnson blogs at gardendrama.wordpress. com.

PHOTOS: ERIC JOHNSON

spring cleanup in the garden can be a lot of work. Luckily, we are fueled with the excitement of the new growing season and the end of winter.

All gardeners develop their own little techniques for getting it done. I’m always inspired to hear how others do cleanup, so I thought I would share a few of my favorite ways and means of tackling the great garden cleanup.

Maybe a few will find their way into your repertoire.

Northern Gardener l March/April 2021

23

POLLINATORS

Swimming Bees

Bees and Water

A follow-up question emerges: why is the bee in the water in the first place?

Honeybees don’t just forage for nectar and pollen; they also need water. They

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

While not great swimmers, bees do benefit from shallow sources of water.

PHOTO COURTESY OF TERRY STRAUB

do bees swim? Spend any time in an outdoor swimming pool and you’ll likely say no. Finding their tiny, lifeless bodies adrift on the water’s surface is a common occurrence. You’d think they had a death wish. At one time, we had a pool and I would glide around gathering them up, then cup my hands underneath and fling them into the landscaping.

I hadn’t thought about this again until I was writing my book on pollinator-friendly gardening and came to the question about the pollinator’s relationship with water. This was in 2014, yet I found little information and lots of conflicting thoughts and theories.

Then, I happened to walk by my backyard pond and there I saw a honeybee swimming, though barely, struggling toward the safety of a nearby lily pad. I stood back and watched as the bee managed to lift its sodden self onto the thin edge of the floating foliage. It sat there for quite a while (long enough for me to go inside and get my camera), drying off in the sunshine. Then, it took off again, seemingly no worse for the experience. That answered my question as to whether bees could swim, but I also added a caveat—not very far.

Flash forward to 2019 when Chris Roh, a research engineer at the California Institute of Technology, strolled by a fountain at lunchtime and saw a bee moving in the clear water, the sun directly overhead magnifying the shadows of the ripples caused by the motion of its wings. Intrigued, Roh replicated the event in his lab, over and over. He found that “bees beat their wings backward and pull water with them, kicking off a kind of tug-of-war between the wing and the water.” He described it as if the bee was surfing.

Further, the study determined that bees can only keep up the strenuous effort for about 10 minutes.

collect water and store it in a specialized compartment in their stomach, then bring it back to the hive, transferring it to various workers for different purposes.

The process is called trophallaxis.

They use water to cool the hive by fanning their wings. The air flow across the water functions like air conditioning.

It also controls humidity in the hive.

They may need water to dilute stored honey that has crystallized in order to eat it, and to produce the jelly they feed to their larvae. In addition, water aids with their digestion of food.

Bees use a variety of water sources, but seem more attracted to “aged” water that has a bit of algae in it. The slight smell must help them find it. Perhaps the smell of pool water is the reason for its allure. When bees land in water, their wings stick to the water, weighing them down. They can’t find an escape route with the steep sides to most swimming pools, which is why I found so many dead ones. This happens to lots of other animals, too.

Best Water Sources

You can provide water in your garden for

bees to safely access, however. Bees are better off when they find water sources with a sloping edge and something to grip. I keep small, shallow saucers filled with pebbles throughout my garden for all types of creatures. The rain and the sprinklers keep them filled most of the time and I hose them clean occasionally.

Bees can share birdbaths, if they aren’t too deep or slippery. I have several large, concrete leaf-shaped birdbaths (shoutout to the Hennepin County Master Gardeners that made them) on the ground for birds, bees and other animals.

The slight slope and textured surface are perfect for bees.

You can combine bee watering and crafting; make bee-waterers using colorful glass beads or pebbles. Some folks even float wine corks in a shallow basin for the bees. No matter how it looks, the bees will appreciate it.

Minneapolis-based Rhonda Fleming Hayes is the author of Pollinator Friendly Gardening (Voyageur Press, 2016).

PLANT TO PICK

DEBBIE LONNEE

Millions of Million Bells

Calibrachoa can be found in most garden centers in spring in 4-inch pots.

es wide, with trailing stems loaded with 1-inch flowers in many different colors.

They really do look like miniature petunias. Most plants have single flowers, but some have double flowers that may remind you of a rose. They come in a rainbow of colors, and many are bicolored. Many of the garden centers have created combinations of three cultivars for hanging baskets, artfully combining different colors that complement each other.

Cultivars are propagated via rooted cuttings for uniformity, and you will typically find them at the garden center in 4-inch pots.

Easy to Grow

These are easy plants to grow. They prefer evenly moist but well-drained soils and grow best in full-sun sites with six to eight hours of sunlight per day. They won’t tolerate frosts, so be

careful when purchasing and putting together your planters this spring and watch out for a late frost. They also won’t tolerate high pH soils. Calibrachoa are mostly being used in planters, and soil mixes for containers have the proper pH level.

Prolific bloomers, you will find them in bloom when you purchase them in spring and they should bloom all season for you. You can find them as the only plant in hanging baskets—they look terrific this way. Or, you can use them as the hanging component in a mixed container or window box. No need to deadhead calibrachoa.

Extensive breeding efforts over the years have brought us an array of colors, double flowers, improved disease resistance and long bloom time. Plant breeders have created several series of calibrachoa as well as new cultivars.

«

a fairly new plant to the gardening world, Calibrachoa has become one of the most popular annuals for home gardeners, including we northern gardeners, since it was introduced in the early 1990s.

Even after 30 years, however, there is debate about whether Calibrachoa is truly a genus. (They are closely related to petunias.) And the common name “million bells” is mired in controversy as it has been protected with a registered trademark (®) by a plant introduction company. None of that matters to most gardeners, who love these colorful blooming plants that work so well in containers and hanging baskets. They are a wonderful “spiller” plant.

A tender perennial in USDA Zones 9-11, calibrachoa is an annual for us. It produces mounds of foliage, growing only 3 to 9 inches tall and up to 24 inch-

Northern Gardener l March/April 2021

25

PLANT TO PICK

Favorite Calibrachoa

Here are some of the newest cultivars plus a few older favorites: Cha-Cha™ Hot Pink: From Ball FloraPlant, there are five new colors this year in the Cha-Cha series alone, but Hot Pink is truly a standout! A tricolor, it sports flowers of hot pink, yellow and white. Vigorous, it is perfect for large hanging baskets. Use it in combination with other flowers in similar shades to echo the color. Other new colors in the series include Deep Blue (which is really a bluish purple), Apricot, Frosty Lemon and Tangerine.

Bumble Bee™ Orange: Also from Ball, the intensely colored flowers are considered a star pattern with lighter orange on the tips of the petals and an intense dark orange (almost red) center.

This flower is larger than many other cultivars. Orange is a tough color to get consistent bloom color on and this one has excellent garden performance.

Superbells® Coral Sun: From the breeders at Proven Winners, the Superbells series of calibrachoa are strong performers. This new variety has bicolor flowers of coral with a yellow center.

There are so many varieties and choices in calibrachoa.”

DEBBIE LONNEE

PHOTO COURTESY OF PROVEN WINNERS

Right: Bumble Bee™ Orange Below: Mixed planter with Cha-Cha™ Diva Hot Pink calibrachoa (front)

PHOTO COURTESY OF BALL HORTICULTURAL

“

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

PLANT TO PICK

Left top: MiniFamous® Yellow and Deep Red Below: MiniFamous® Neo Blue

PHOTO COURTESY OF SAKATA SEED

Superbells® Coral Sun

THRILLER, FILLER, SPILLER Many gardeners have heard the recipe for an ornamental container that involves thriller, filler and spiller plants. What does that mean?

A thriller is a plant that’s tall and dramatic, such as a spiky grass.

You combine that with something full—the filler, such as a heuchera, coleus or begonia for shade or a celosia or lantana for sun. The spiller is a plant that will tumble over the edge of the container, such as creeping jenny, sweet potato vine or calibrachoa. For easy care, choose plants that need the same amount of sun and water.

—Eds.

PHOTO COURTESY OF SAKATA SEED

MiniFamous® Neo series: Over the years, I have been impressed with the MiniFamous breeding work from Selecta First Class in Germany. This was the company that bred some of the first double calibrachoa. One of its newest series is called Neo, with both singles and doubles, and some of the doubles are bicolor! The colors are brilliant. Although there are no true blue calibrachoa, Neo Blue is a dark purplish blue with a stippled look. It’s really striking. You won’t be disappointed in any calibrachoa in the MiniFamous line.

There are so many varieties and choices in calibrachoa. I hope you find a variety that creates your perfect hanging basket or combo planter in 2021!

Debbie Lonnee works in the horticulture industry and gardens in South St. Paul.

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Water is the key to finding frogs in your backyard.

FRIENDLY FROGS Story and photos by Soni Forsman

C

reating a frog haven was not the reason we built our first water garden. But shortly after it was finished and a few aquatic plants were added, the frogs came. It was more like an army—which is what a group of frogs is called. They lounged on the waterlily pads, sunned themselves on the surrounding rocks and hid in the grass, leaping into the water whenever we approached. They still come every year.

I look forward to the return of the frogs and note the date in my garden journal.

Frogs hopped onto a gardening trend list in 2020. The Garden Media Group, a lawn and garden public relations agency, named the trend “The Frog Whisperer,” and described the beneficial role frogs play in the natural world, how gardeners can help and why frogs are disappearing.

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Frogs of Minnesota Frogs and toads are effective natural pest controls. Carnivores, they devour garden insects such as bugs, beetles, caterpillars, grasshoppers, grubs and slugs. Carol Hall, herpetologist with the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources, says “many frogs will catch whatever is within their reach and small enough to put into their mouth and swallow.” True frogs have strong hind limbs and leap to get their prey, she says. Toads are not so agile and wait for prey to land close by. John Moriarty, senior manager of wildlife at Three Rivers Park District in Hennepin County, says frogs are not major predators of adult mosquitos or butterflies. They prefer insects larger than mosquitos, and butterflies are usually too high above the ground.

Bring on the Frogs

For a yard to attract frogs and toads, it must have water and be near water.

You can add water to your landscape in a variety of ways, but a backyard water feature won’t attract frogs unless a natural body of water, such as a wetland, lake or river, is nearby, says Moriarty.

Depending on obstacles (roads, houses) and terrain, frogs can travel a half mile or more from a natural waterway to your garden.

Throughout Minnesota, gardeners may find the northern leopard frog, the western chorus frog and the American toad, which is the one most seen in gardens. Green frogs, wood frogs, Cope’s gray frogs, gray frogs and spring peepers are also common in wetlands and ponds. The bullfrog, the largest North American frog, grows up to 8 inches in length and is native to the Mississippi River backwaters in Winona and Houston counties.

They are considered invasive outside that area, however.

—S.F.

A northern leopard frog looks out from under a pad of Nymphaea ‘Detective Erika’.

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Friendly Frogs

some leaves or twigs to the vessel. This debris is cover and a place for the frogs to sit. A purchased toad house provides suitable habitat for toads or you can make one from a terra cotta flowerpot.

Common predators of these amphibians include snakes, racoons and birds of prey. Moriarty urges gardeners to keep an eye on pets and children. They can unintentionally hurt wildlife. He also suggests washing your hands before handling a frog since its skin is sensitive to nicotine, creams and chemicals like sunscreen and insect repellents. Toads do not cause warts as I was cautioned as a kid.

While frog species worldwide are going extinct, none of Minnesota’s 14 frog and toad species are currently endangered.

The northern cricket frog was rare some years ago but is making a comeback in its native areas near the Iowa border and a PHOTO COURTESY OF DOUG LAKE

For backyard water features, frogs prefer shallow ponds with sloping sides, no moving water and no fish. Small, preformed water gardens are available from garden centers and can easily be installed in a weekend. Once complete, you only need to add a waterlily and a few plants around the inside and outside edges of the pond. These plants provide cover while the frogs are in the pond. Plants for the inside edges include native blue flag iris (Iris versicolor), pickerel rush (Pontederia cordata) and native sedges (Carex ssp). Groundcovers such as sedums or short perennials and annuals growing around the outside edge of the pond add another layer of protection.

A smaller and easier option is to place a water-filled birdbath bowl or a large flowerpot saucer on the ground. Add

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tiny spot in the western part of the state, Moriarty says. Loss of wetland habitat and use of agricultural pesticides are big contributors to the decline in populations.

Droughts are also a threat because frogs and toads lay their eggs on the water or attached to aquatic vegetation.

We are lucky to live near a wetland and spring can be a magical and sometimes very noisy time. The frogs call to each other constantly. With no roads and few obstacles, they move easily into our water features. During the summer of 2020 while we stayed home, the northern leopard frogs gave us more enjoyment than usual. We played countthe-frogs often, and sometimes counted 20 or more!

Eagan-based Soni Forsman is a regular contributor to Northern Gardener.

Opposite page, far left: Gray tree frogs hang out on a vanilla marigold.

Left: After a hailstorm, northern leopard frogs huddle on damaged water lettuce (Pistia stratoides).

MY FROG POND Many years ago, my husband designed a large perennial garden and incorporated a small water garden into the border. The preformed pond is round, 36 inches in diameter, with sides that slope down to a maximum depth of 12 inches.

In the beginning, I placed a single waterlily in this pond for the summer, then a lotus occupied it for several more. Now, it is my frog pond. When reimagining this small water garden, I considered the frog and toad life cycles and how to make the pond even more attractive to them. Clean water protected from any fertilizers or herbicides that might be applied to the yard, and lots and lots of plant cover were some of the considerations. Also, there is no water movement and no fish. Frog eggs, if present, would be a fish buffet. I also wanted the pond to look good.

Northern leopard frogs and an occasional wood frog live in or near this pond.

American toads hang out in the garden. If not in the water, the frogs hide under the leaves of the plants or just rest on the cool garden soil waiting patiently for their next snack. Plants in this garden are pest-free. When I work in the garden, I hear the frogs splash into the water as they exit the garden en masse. The toads just hop out of my way.

It takes just a few hours in early spring to prepare this small water garden for the influx of frogs. I remove any debris, pump out the water, clean and refill the pond. This early timeline has the pond set up before frogs or toads have laid eggs. There have been tadpoles in this pond.

Next, I place an aquatic marginal plant of medium height such as variegated cattail (Typha latifolia ‘Variegata’) in the center. Other options would be Graceful Grasses® Prince Tut™ papyrus or imperial taro (Colocasia esculenta var. antiquorum ‘Illustris’). I adjust the height of the plant so the top of the pot is at the water’s surface or just below. This gives the frogs a resting place until the floating plants fill in.

For floating plants, I add water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) and water lettuce (Pistia stratoides). I only add four to six floaters because they spread. Sometimes I toss in a small handful of common duckweed (Lemna minor), which multiplies rapidly. Later in the summer, I may thin some of these floaters to expose a little water. Adding a biological mosquito control such as Mosquito Dunks® is the final and necessary step. Frogs prefer insects larger than mosquitos and their tadpoles are vegetarians that eat algae.

The pond is ready to welcome its summer guests!

—S.F. Below, from far left: a gray tree frog on a taro leaf; a Cope’s gray tree frog hides in a daylily; a leopard frog on water lettuce; a leopard frog blends in with a water lily (Nymphaea ‘Wanvisa’); a wood frog lounges on the author’s deck.

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Easy-going, Easy-growing Perennials These15 bloom where they’re planted.

Story and photos by Michelle Mero Riedel

Gardens are always changing, and gardeners need to plan for change.

This year, I’m thinking about what to do with a garden area where several trees have grown too much, adding shade over my sun-loving plants. I also need to deal with a formerly shady site that turned sunny after I removed a large shrub last fall. What I really need are plants that will grow in any light condition.

Plan for Success What does full sun do to shade-loving plants? Each situation is different, but generally when you put a plant that’s typically recommended for shade in the sun, it may need more water to bloom and grow the way you’d like. Water is especially important at the time of planting.

Shade lovers also may not be able to handle all-day, not-a-drop-ofshade light. Experiment and consider full sun for shade plants to be

no more than six to eight hours a day. You may also see some change in foliage color in full sun vs. shade.

Lighter, slightly washed-out leaf color may occur, especially for some coralbells and hostas.

What does shade do to sun-loving plants? Assuming they receive at least two to three hours of sun, sun lovers will survive though they may produce fewer flowers and leaves compared to when they are in full sun. The stems of some sun-loving plants also may not be as thick, meaning they will need staking. Even with fewer flowers and less fullness, they’re still admirable plants.

Consider placing sunny plants in shady dry or well-drained soil. Too much moisture and not enough light could lead to a plant’s demise.

If you are looking for garden-worthy perennials that can be planted in sun or shade, consider my top 15 adaptable, easy-to-grow performers.

Professional photographer and U of M Extension Master Gardener Michelle Mero Riedel gardens in Washington County. She is a frequent contributor to Northern Gardener.

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1 2

1

Epimedium x rubrum (red barrenwort) Found mostly in woodland gardens, barrenwort is often grown as a groundcover or, as in my garden, a specimen plant deserving its own show. A petite, bright pink-red flower opens in early spring and produces heart-shaped leaves that turn bronze as the season progresses.

Barrenwort prefers well-drained soil and survives in both moist and dry conditions. Rubrum is the most common variety and one of the few that adapts well to both shade and sun.

2

Lamium maculatum ‘Pink Nancy’ (spotted dead nettle) I’m a fan of groundcover lamium. In container gardens, it’s a fantastic trailer, and in the landscape, it’s a class-act filler under mature trees. It’s a plant you can grow anywhere, and it’s tolerant of dry or moist, well-drained soil. Standing 6 to 8 inches tall with showy variegated foliage, this vigorous grower spreads quickly, but it’s not invasive. Most lamiums tolerate full sun and full shade.

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Geranium sanguineum ‘Alpenglow’ (bloody cranesbill) Although this outstanding long bloomer prefers part-to-full sun, ‘Alpenglow’ happily receives just three hours of morning sun in my shady landscape. It doesn’t have nearly as many flowers and leaves as the same plant in my full-sun

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Geranium sanguineum ‘Alpenglow’

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area, but the foliage and long blooms provide exceptional and much-needed color and texture to the shade landscape. In full sun, I love to hedge this plant; and in the shade, I weave it around hostas wherever I find some space. Consider planting ‘Sweet Heidy’, another shade-loving geranium.

4

Carex siderosticha ‘Variegata’ (broad-leaf sedge) This valuable, unusual wide-blade grass is perfect for small areas and the garden edge. The broad-leaf, cream-and-greenstriped sedge mostly prefers full sun.

You can beautify containers with it, but in the shade, it’s best used as a contrast to hostas and other round-leaf plants. I use ‘Variegata’ to brighten up the shade garden in areas that receive very little sun, maybe a couple of hours at most.

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Hosta montana ‘AureoMarginata’ (plantain lilies) Hostas are best known for adding color and texture to brighten the shade garden. But many hostas are suitable companions to sun-loving plants, allowing the gardener to customize some varieties to sun or shade. Which hostas are best for sun exposure? The ones displaying yellow, gold or green foliage, or a combination. These hostas benefit from some sun and often look better in sun than in the shade.

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6

Heuchera villosa ‘Southern Comfort’ PP20,364 (coralbells) When I first started gardening, coralbells had a reputation as a shade-only plant.

The one exception was H. micrantha ‘Purple Palace’, a stunner, though now it’s considered a bit old-fashioned and out of style. Newer, attractive varieties are available for sunny sites that also perform well in the shade. I have an infatuation with H. ‘Pinot Gris’, Dolce® ‘Cherry Truffles’ and ‘Raspberry Ice’, which are all in my garden.

But my favorite is ‘Southern Comfort’, because it holds season-long fall color, and it resides in a sunny site in my front garden.

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Aruncus aethusifolius (dwarf goat’s beard) A small mound of delicate foliage, goat’s beard loves all light. It’s a compact plant for tucking into small, open landscape areas. I enjoy the cream-colored flowers that bloom for a long period; they remind me of a miniature, tidy astilbe but with fernlike foliage.

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Corydalis lutea (yellow corydalis) Here’s another plant mostly found in shaded areas that performs remarkably well in full sun. It likes to self-seed.

Like dwarf goat’s beard, it is a short, mounded plant with fernlike foliage, but its best feature is the long-blooming, showy yellow flower.

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Astilbe japonica ‘Montgomery’ (false spirea) A friend asked me recently why I have so many astilbes in full sun, thinking that they’re just for shade. I’ve found that astilbe is another plant that loves both but performs best in part sun. I enjoy growing astilbes all over my landscape for their leaf and flower shape and texture. There are tall, medium and compact varieties, ideal for all garden locations.

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Ajuga reptans ‘Black Scallop’ PP15,815 (bugleweed) Ajugas are dense, intentional spreaders that offer outstanding groundcover. I have some behind a tree that receive a little sunrise and sunset light, as well as a patch in all-day sun. ‘Black Scallop’ retains its deep, almost black color in all areas. Place it in a container garden as a unique trailing plant.

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Digitalis purpurea ‘Camelot Mix’ (foxglove) Tall and residing in the back border, prima donna foxglove promises outstanding color loaded with long-lasting blooms.

It’s a cottage garden favorite that might need staking. Some gardeners treat foxglove as a biennial that produces flowers the first year and offers an even better display the following year before setting seed. Easy to grow from seed, it’s best to start new each year as self-seeders may not come true.

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Monarda didyma ‘Raspberry Wine’ (bee balm) Recently on the Grow with KARE Facebook page, fans commented that bee balm can grow anywhere. It’s true.

Originally for full sun, I have several plants that are covered by tree shade and still flower and thrive. ‘Raspberry Wine’ is one of my favorites for its extravagant color. The pollinators like it, too.

apart in my all-day sunny garden. Its fuzzy flowers, looking like white taper candles, gracefully move in the wind, winning compliments galore from passersby. When flowering, the local bees claim black cohosh as their own.

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Antennaria neglecta (pussytoes) While preferring full sun, pussytoes will grow successfully in a dry, shady area, and they look especially appealing among steppingstones. It’s a native plant that fills in quickly. Gardeners love the plant’s green-gray evergreen leaves, and the adorable, early-season flower that resembles a cat’s paw, hence the name.

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Chelone lyonii ‘Hot Lips’ (turtlehead) I plant turtlehead in dry shade and wet sun, and the plants do well in both locations. Its irresistible pink flowers bloom in late summer; it’s a late-season must-have.

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Actaea racemosa (black cohosh or American bugbane) I like tall and wild native plants. Black cohosh, listed for mostly shade, stands

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15 Chelone lyonii ‘Hot Lips’

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BIG BABY TOMATO • BITTER GOURD • CHOPSTICK BEANS • LEEKS • OPO SQUASH • SHALLOTS • ONIONS • WINTER MELON •

Dirt

DIPLOMACY

Swapping seeds and veggies produces big benefits for Edina gardener.

RUSS STANTON

Story and photos by Gail Hudson

CAN A VEGETABLE FROM THE OTHER SIDE OF THE WORLD HELP YOU MAKE FRIENDS ACROSS THE STREET? By growing unusual veggies, Russ Stanton of Edina makes cross-cultural connections with neighbors and the people he meets. “Every culture I know, they tend to love gardening and growing things, particularly Asian and African cultures,” Russ says, “and it’s a great way to connect with people.”

The first glimmer of the diplomatic power of a homegrown vegetable came to this former Minnesota state legislator and lobbyist for Southwest Minnesota State University when he knocked on the door of new neighbors from India.

“I live across the street,” he said. “Do you folks like eggplant?” They replied, “We love it!” Russ says he’s discovered talking about food can be an icebreaker.

“We might have something in common,” he says. “It makes for an interesting discussion.”

Neighbors Soon Rao and Jamuna Nemani were familiar with Russ and his passion for gardening—particularly when it comes to growing vegetables he never knew existed before. After the couple traveled home to India, they brought Russ a gift of opo squash seeds (Lagenaria siceraria). It’s one of the first known plants to be cultivated by humans over 10,000 years ago.

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EGGPLANT • HOT PEPPERS • YELLOW SQUASH • BROCCOLI • POTATOES • CUCUMBER • BIG BABY TOMATO • BITTERGOURD

Opposite page: Russ and friend, Thuy Doan, examine the tomato harvest; granddaughter Lily (left) and friend are shorter than the prize-winning opo squash.

Left: Russ shows the size of the squash; below: bitter gourd (top) and winter melon.

“

Our neighbors in the gray house—they’re from France and he’s a wonderful cook, so I got some endive seed.”

–Russ Stanton

Garden of Many Vegetables

Russ has been growing all kinds of vegetables for 15 years in his 40-by-80-foot backyard garden next to a muddy pond.

“If you’re going to grow anything well,

you’ve got to have water—we’re right near the water table,” he says, “and you’ve got to have lots of sun. We have lots of sun.”

Last year, Russ planted three kinds of onions and three kinds of potatoes by mid-April. By May first, he had most of the garden planted after adding beets, lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and leeks. Finally, the frost-sensitive plants went in, including different kinds of squash, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, zucchini and cucumbers.

But this ever-adventurous gardener is always trying something new. Russ supplied new neighbors with leeks, shallots and greens. “Our neighbors in the gray house—they’re from France and he’s a wonderful cook, so I got some endive seed,” he says.

Russ planted the tropical vine commonly known as bitter gourd (Momordica charantia), which is popular in Asia, Africa and the Caribbean for its warty skin and cucumber-like fruit. “My Indian friends claim that it’s really good for your liver and digestive system,” Russ says. “They have medicinal benefits.”

And when Russ’ wife took a class to learn Vietnamese, Russ learned how to grow winter melon (Benincasa hispida).

A Vietnamese-American friend, Thuy Doan, told them it’s known in Vietnam as bí đao.

RUSS STANTON

The next summer, Russ’ garden produced the skinny, tubular squash in abundance. The opo plant (also called long squash, bottle gourd or calabash) produces white-flowered vines known to grow as long as 30 feet. Russ accommodated this eager grower with a rope trellis and sumac shrubs for support.

“The first year when I got the big, long ones under the sumac, I felt like it was a little kid’s fort, you know?” he says with a laugh. The fruit hung down like baseball bats, and if they touched the ground, Russ dug a hole underneath to give them room.

Since then, Russ has won first prize at the Minnesota State Fair for opos he’s grown. One winner measured at 72 inches!

Jamuna was amazed at the size of the opo because they don’t grow nearly that big in India. “She would make meals for us out of the opo and invite us over and friends, too,” Russ says. “The opo itself is kind of bland. But when she opened her [kitchen] cabinet, there was from top to bottom every spice imaginable. When she got through with it, it was delicious.”

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Dirt Diplomacy BIG BABY TOMATO • BITTER GOURD • CHOPSTICK BEANS • LEEKS • OPO SQUASH • SHALLOTS • ONIONS • WINTER MELON •

The hairy, green winter melon scrambled up a trellis, while a vine on the ground produced more than a dozen, larger melons all by itself. “When you touch it, that fuzz is almost needlelike,” says Russ.

Last August, Thuy brought over soup made from Russ’ melon harvest. She used a family recipe for a broth made with baby back ribs (or any kind of meat) and onion poured over rice and fresh cilantro. “[Winter melon] is kind of like honeydew … and takes up whatever flavor you have,” Thuy says.

“It’s very malleable to whatever you cook it in.”

Blue-Ribbon Winners

The asparagus beans (Vigna unguiculata) that Russ raised in pots along the back fence are commonly stir-fried or added to stew in African and Southeast Asian cuisines. Thuy knows them as “chopstick beans” because they grow in pairs. But

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Russ admits his interest in this burgundy red vegetable is more about winning competitions. One year, he won a Minnesota State Fair blue ribbon for a bean that was 39 inches long.

“I have a corny, competitive nature to me,” Russ says of his love for over-sized vegetables. “For some reason, they really capture people’s imaginations. It’s fun to do that.”

Over the years, Russ has won seven ribbons at the fair for the longest bean, a heavyweight zucchini and an assortment of squash, including the opo.

“Once I see one that has a lot of potential, I’d pick off all the other blossoms,” Russ says, “so all of the energy would go into that one squash.”

Russ says he’s no longer entering contests, but he couldn’t resist buying seeds advertised to produce tomatoes as big as an 8- to 10-pound baby. A packet of five seeds produced four good plants, and more than one titan of a tomato—

the largest at 2.4 pounds. “I love tomato sandwiches, and when you make a tomato sandwich, [the slices] hung over the edge of the toast,” he says, laughing.

He promises to try them again next year. “I have saved seeds from the two largest tomatoes,” Russ says. “But I’ve got to work more on my technologies of how to hold them up, so they don’t fall off the plant.” Last time, Russ used bungee cords. But Thuy suggested an old bra might work better. That idea is not so far-fetched. In 2014, Dan MacCoy from Ely borrowed pantyhose from his wife to support a world-record tomato that weighed more than 8 pounds.

Russ also attempted cabbage plants that were supposed to produce giant results, but shade from nearby potato plants kept them disappointingly small.

Growing Tips Russ says the key to a successful vegetable garden is lots of sunlight, lots of regular water and compost. Crop rotation and good soil help, too. “The first thing I do when I’m planting is

EGGPLANT • HOT PEPPERS • YELLOW SQUASH • BROCCOLI • POTATOES • CUCUMBER • BIG BABY TOMATO • BITTERGOURD

“

I have a corny, competitive nature to me.”

–Russ Stanton

Opposite page, from lower left: chopstick beans; Big Baby tomato; inset, winter melon soup This page, clockwise, from top left: The garden in spring; Russ protects young plants with cans; a shallot plant blossoms.

‘mudding them in,’ ” he says. “I just water around the base until it’s soupy so that the dirt closes in around the roots.” He throws “anything organic,” like grass clippings or the tops of beets, on the garden.

“You can tell compost makes a difference,” Russ says. “I have so many worms in my garden because they have lots of food to eat and they leave nitrogen trails.” That’s something he learned from his dad, a southwestern Minnesota farmer. “He understood that soil was a living thing,” he says. “I picked up a lot of attitudes from him.”

When Russ plants opo squash, he digs a couple of holes, throws in a bag of compost and puts the squash seeds in the middle. He observes “that gives them a jump.”

In this bountiful Minnesota garden, milkweed, prairie shooting star (Dodecatheon meadia), cosmos and other flowers are planted to “bring in a lot of pollinators,” too.

By the end of the season, Russ had a bumper crop of tomatoes, a spaghetti squash vine that just wouldn’t quit, and lots of peppers, beets and more. “It comes so fast,” he says. “You wait a long time for it and then once it comes, yeah!”

Lots of veggies to share with family and any new friends he might happen to meet.

Gail Brown Hudson has a master’s degree in horticulture and is an Emmy® award-winning journalist, writer and video producer, as well as an avid gardener in Minneapolis.

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Story and photos by Meg Cowden

A few winters ago, I indulged my longing for crunchy lettuce. On a whim, I grabbed a head of iceberg in the produce section of our local coop. My husband and I paired the crisp greens with our very favorite iceberg salad dressing: carrot ginger. We took our first bites with highest hopes during the coldest days of the year. And, we were not disappointed.

“Why the heck aren’t we growing iceberg lettuce in our garden?” we wondered aloud.

As proponents of growing what we love to eat, we scour seed catalogs for useful peppers, sweet and storage-friendly carrots, and the next tomato to try. Iceberg lettuce, a crisphead variety, was not something that we’d noticed featured in any seed catalog, ever. So, it hadn’t even dawned on us to try growing it.

It turns out there are quite a few iceberg lettuce varieties to choose from, and I quickly ordered seeds of Gondar and Red Iceberg to try in our 2019 spring garden. Our gardens are forever changed.

The Iceberg Saga Bred in the United States by Burpee in the late 19th century, iceberg lettuce was nationally distributed by the 1940s.

Its name was purportedly derived from how it was transported—snuggled into a bed of ice—before the advent of refrigerated train cars. Iceberg was the first lettuce to be widely available for purchase. In the mid-20th century, it was probably the only salad you knew, unless you had a home garden.

By the 1990s, a marked preference for darker, more flavorful and nutri-

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HEADS UP Take your time and savor iceberg lettuce’s cold crispness.

“

Why the heck aren’t we growing iceberg lettuce in our garden?”

Below: By mid-May, iceberg heads can be seen in this drone image.

Right: Transplants are ready to go into the ground in July for fall crops.

ent-dense greens spurred a shift in consumption. Romaine and mesclun mixes eclipsed the old standard, iceberg.

Like its waning presence in produce sections, iceberg was largely absent from vegetable gardens until recently.

It’s fascinating to consider, in hindsight, that commercially available produce— bred for favorable storage quality and transportation hardiness—wields such influence on what we choose to grow in our home gardens.

My family primarily grew leaf lettuce and mesclun mixes for nearly two decades. They are quick to mature, and we grew them in thick, generous rows, a result of our heavy-handed direct seeding.

They provided reliable, delicious, flavor-

ful cut-and-come-again salad bowls.

Leaf lettuce is so soft that it falls apart in our mouths—no crunch at all.

Because of that lackluster texture, I’d never given my salad garden a high priority.

As the years passed, we steered away from tender varieties and transitioned to growing almost exclusively head lettuces, such as romaine, butterhead and summer crisp. Transitioning to head lettuce was a leap in the right direction, providing the firmer texture we craved most. It turns out we weren’t the only ones wondering why we weren’t growing iceberg. Iceberg lettuce has enjoyed a steady yet quiet renaissance and most seed catalogs now carry several varieties.

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Heads Up

Cultivating A Wedge

Iceberg lettuce is best suited to your spring or fall garden. While it can tolerate some heat, it prefers cooler weather in which to perform its acrobatics, twisting, turning and folding itself up for our culinary enjoyment.

Growing head lettuce invites us to cultivate patience. Iceberg in particular takes longer to form heads than openleaved head lettuces like butterhead or romaine. With that in mind, I give all of our head lettuces an indoor start, so they have the best chance of forming heads well before summer heat arrives.

I sow our earliest iceberg lettuce seeds during those mentally challenging late weeks of winter. By the beginning of March, I have iceberg and romaine seedlings under grow lights indoors. They remain there for several weeks before moving outdoors under cover.

Lettuce is a great vegetable to succession plant. If you prefer direct seeding, sowing a row of lettuce (eventually thinned and spaced appropriately) every 10 days for the first month of your growing season will ensure a steady supply of salads until sometime in July when the heat turns their leaves bitter and signals the plant to bolt.

I find it satisfying to envision every salad ingredient I desire and plan accordingly, timing their maturity so they overlap. I love roasted beets in my salad, so I always start at least a dozen soil blocks of beets indoors at the same time I start my earliest iceberg.

To time my dream salad right, carrots and radishes get direct sown outdoors under a low tunnel on or before the spring equinox—and again a few weeks later in early April in some chilly but welcoming uncovered soil. I always hope to have carrots well on their way by early May for an early July harvest.

Once hardened off for several days, the lettuce starts are interplanted among cabbages under our spring low tunnels. Iceberg will be ready to harvest Interplanted among cabbages, iceberg lettuce is ready for harvest in mid-June.

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starting in mid-June and continuing into With its garden longevity in mind, I early July. Around this same time, I sow interplant iceberg lettuce with cabbages more iceberg lettuce for our fall garden. and flowers, knowing they will marry A little patience goes a long way happily come late May and early June, with this type of head letshowering us with a beautiful tuce. There’s just no rushgarden view while we remain ing the heading, just like squarely in wedge purgatory. there’s no rushing a cauli- Iceberg lettuce Proper plant spacing is key flower—try as we might to to the best chances of growhas enjoyed a will them to maturity. ing state fair-quality heads. steady yet quiet I give our iceberg at least 12 Garden Art inches on center spacing, renaissance Iceberg lettuce is certainly more. If you’re and most seed sometimes not garden fast food. And dedicating a space just for catalogs now that is one of the things I iceberg, plant them a minlove about it. It becomes imum of 12 inches apart in carry several integrally woven into the rows 14 to 18 inches apart. varieties.” fabric of our spring garden.

If you’re growing in a tight Around for much longer space and can’t bear the than faster growing leafy greens, the thought of leaving your limited garden planting remains full for longer. And it soil unproductive, direct seed some makes a statement. fast crops, such as radishes or arugula,

“

FAVORITE ICEBERG VARIETIES Days to harvest from transplant Crispino—57 Red Iceberg—50 Gondar—50 Saladin—62 —M. C. The mid-June harvest includes lots of lettuces, as well as strawberries, kohlrabi and more for salads.

Below: Iceberg salad with carrot ginger dressing.

CARROT GINGER DRESSING Yield: 1 quart 1 cup neutral oil (canola, avocado, vegetable) ½ cup rice vinegar ¼ cup tamari or soy sauce 1 tablespoon honey 1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger 1 ½ cups shredded carrot 1/3 cup onion, diced ½ teaspoon salt in between your salad seedlings. These plants will mature and be harvested before the icebergs size up.

Growing iceberg takes two to three months from seed to plate. While most seed packages will say 50 to 60 days, I find an iceberg seed sown indoors under lights in late February will mature starting in mid-June. In my cold-climate garden, iceberg is closer to 70 days from transplant or about 85 days from direct seeding to harvest.

It is totally worth the wait. Nothing compares to that watery crunch from your very own homegrown wedge salad.

And, to think it’s all thanks to an anonymous coop worker who stocked up on iceberg. We gardeners are always ready for inspiration to strike.

Place all ingredients in a blender. Start blending on low, working your way up to high, approximately 30 seconds. This will store in the refrigerator up to two weeks, though ours never lasts that long.

—M. C.

Meg Cowden tends a large vegetable garden in Orono and is proprietor of the website, seedtofork.com. Follow her on Instagram at @seedtofork.

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Banish a messy look (and appease cranky neighbors) with these 7 native plants.

WEEDY NO MORE

Story and photos by Benjamin Vogt

Pick Plants Intentionally

In an urban or suburban garden, especially one that is reducing or replacing areas of lawn, the plants shouldn’t be tall; it’s

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likely they will flop over or impede sight lines, which won’t allow people to see over the landscape or feel comfortable.

Likewise, choosing plants that are overly aggressive by root or seed, particularly in a small space, will eventually create a bed that looks messy and soon becomes a monoculture. Below is a list of native perennials that tend to clump or spread slowly underground, generally maintain a height under 3 feet, have an extended season of interest, and are adaptable to a variety of soil and light conditions. An added benefit is that you can use them all together in the same bed to create a layered, ecologically thriving, low-management space with a bloom progression from spring to fall.

Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) It’s probably the best-known plant here, and there’s a reason. It’s dependable, has a compact form suitable for designed wildness, and offers a different bloom color and flower structure for pollinators. While A. tuberosa will do best in a well-drained soil such as loamy clay, sand or rocky soils, a looser clay or clay hillside should keep things dry enough to make this plant happy. The bonus is certainly the autumn seed pods, which provide interest well into winter as well as food for the large milkweed bugs that eat the seeds.

«

THERE IS LITTLE ELSE AS SATISFYING IN THE GARDEN AS WATCHING WILDLIFE USE THE SPACE: cardinals dashing in and out of oaks, skipper butterflies and sweat bees methodically circling coneflower blooms. What is a garden without the critical ecological function that makes the world work and brings us closer to nature? When we cultivate native plant communities at home that are inspired by nearby meadows or woods, we invariably pique the interest of neighbors as well as wildlife. Sometimes, the neighbors report us to weed control. I’ve had it happen.

Any garden—no matter how wild its origins—is still a garden; what this means is that it must negotiate two worlds: that of what wildlife expect to see and what our culture expects to see. If we simply toss out a bagful of wildflower seed, we’re not going to be as successful at bridging a society of expansive lawns and mulched foundation beds with a diverse and resilient garden for nature. But as a designer creating native landscapes, I’ve also found that our initial plant choices can make all the difference and help mitigate the “weedy” interpretation some may have.

« White-Tinged Sedge (Carex albicans)

While considered a woodland sedge for dry to medium-moist sites, C. albicans does well in full-sun locations if soil moisture is a little more consistent or it’s being partially shaded by taller neighbors (such as many of the perennials on this list). Its wavy, undulating form greens up early in spring and regrows in fall, while providing a lovely groundcover about 12 inches tall that helps conserve soil moisture and shades out weed seedlings. An alternative might be curly wood sedge (Carex rosea); for hotter sites try a bunchgrass like sideoats grama (Bouteloua curtipendula), blue grama (Bouteloua gracilis) or prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis).

« Aromatic aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium)

Any garden will benefit from a variety of form and shape in plant structures, and S. oblongifolium certainly fits the bill with a more shrublike habit. Blooming in mid- to late autumn, it’s a boon to migrating or soon-to-hibernate insects, not to mention the spiders and bugs that hunt them. With its mounding shape reaching 18 to 24 inches tall and 2 to 3 feet in diameter after several years, this perennial will slowly spread by rhizome. Give it full to afternoon sun in most any soil type but wet. Often, blooms will survive a freeze or two while the leaves can turn bright orange to plum. In winter, the dark brown mound contrasts nicely with the lighter tan hues of sedges and grasses—because remember, brown is a color, too.

«

Nodding Onion (Allium cernuum) There’s nothing like a weaving drift of A. cernuum rising through a foundation of sedge or bunchgrassEnjoy the bumblebee es. Each slowly spreading clump workers that come to will reach 12 to 18 inches tall with dangle upside down a—you guessed it—nodding head of pinkish-white flowers at the as they gather pollen. top. Like every plant on this list, it’s nearly impervious to herbivore damage, too. Site conditions are wide open as far as soil type, but more sun than shade will provide the largest number of blooms. In late summer, the jet black seeds begin to appear. If you have a 200-square-foot bed, try two meandering drifts of 10 to 15 plants, then enjoy the bumblebee workers that come to dangle upside down as they gather pollen. »

Benjamin Vogt manages the garden design firm Monarch Gardens. He is the author of the forthcoming guide to using native plants in home gardens, Prairie Up: An Introduction to Natural Garden Design (University of Illinois Press, 2022).

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Weedy No More

» Prairie Alumroot (Heuchera richardsonii)

We’re all familiar with the abundant selection of Heuchera cultivars, but did you know we have a robust prairie and meadow native? Prairie alumroot’s large, maplelike leaves look outstanding massed in a bed of sedge or bunchgrass, and in fall and winter its leaves can take on hues of bright red and copper that catch the light well. In spring, narrow columns about 2 feet tall of brownish-yellow flowers grace hairy stems. These flowers are almost imperceptible on a lone plant, but in a group of five to seven plants, they present something more for us and small carpenter bees who come for the accessible pollen.

» Rough Blazingstar (Liatris aspera)

We had a tie here between L. aspera and L. punctata—and while the latter blazingstar species is shorter (18 inches or so) and may provide more flower stalks, rough blazingstar gives us some interesting height in the garden (24 to 36 inches) while not being imposing or floppy. After a few years of growth, the underground corm will have grown enough to provide three to seven stalks of stout, violet blooms for butterflies and moths.

Autumn seed heads are puffy while the winter bracts left behind are artistic in their own right, but my favorite show are the white buds just before bloom. Try rough blazingstar in any medium to dry site with as much sun as possible.

» Zigzag Goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis)

Native to dry, shady areas, this early-fall goldenrod also can do well in sunnier locations if the soil is medium to slightly moist. In a looser soil like loam or sandy loam, it will run more aggressively than in clay, but it will always maintain a clumped mass. That latter point also speaks to another pick for midsummer, Virginia mountain mint (Pycnanthemum virginianum), whose white blooms and fragrant foliage are of similar height to the goldenrod—18 to 30 inches tall—and which has a similar spreading habit. Both are mind-blowingly supportive to adult pollinators when in bloom.

A Final Note

To avoid a weedy look, remember placement and design is everything. Mass and drift the species: three Asclepias here, seven Heuchera there, to show intent and order. Use the sedge as a green mulch that ties the space together. And leave the garden standing in winter so birds have seeds, insects have places to hibernate, and to help snow gather around stems to hydrate and insulate.

Don’t forget garden cues that neighbors will see as intentional and welcoming—a wide walking path, a bench or sculpture, and even a water fountain. When you choose the right plants for your site, fitting them to soil and light, you’re halfway home in creating a landscape that successfully bridges the expectations of both nature and your neighbors.

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

Relax with these 8 herbs that make delicious infusions.

Tea Garden

Story and photos by Jennifer Rensenbrink

I have grown and foraged many different herbal tea plants, from chamomile to calendula. A cup of herbal tea in the evening is a ritual for my whole family—even my teenagers. And, we’ve discovered which plants make the most delicious teas. Here are eight favorites.

Anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum) Anise hyssop has a special place in my heart: it’s native to North America, it

supports both pollinators and birds, and it thrives in a variety of light and soil conditions—even my hot, dry city boulevard. It makes a fantastic tea that has a mild anise (black licorice) aroma and flavor.

The leaves also taste wonderful when picked fresh and tossed into a salad.

A short-lived perennial, anise hyssop will readily self-seed.

It can get aggressive, but the purple-leaved seedlings are easy to identify and pluck out in the spring. A member of the mint family, it is susceptible to four-lined plant bugs. The leaves and flowers are edible.

After drying, snip herbs for tea and store in an open container.

Above: A goldfinch eats the seeds of anise hyssop.

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Tea Garden

Mint ( M e ntha sp. ) What tea cupboard would be complete without mint in its many forms? I grow chocolate mint and peppermint, but there are many varieties including pineapple and ginger mint.

Mint leaves are more bitter after the plants flower, so I try to pick them young. I grow my mints in part- to full shade to keep them from getting too aggressive. All are herbaceous perennials, even in our northern climate.

Holy Basil (Ocimum tenuiflorum) Another member of the mint family, holy basil is also known as tulsi in ayurvedic medicine. It tastes fantastic—like a combination of chamomile and rose.

Holy basil must be grown as an annual in northern gardens. It prefers full sun but will grow reasonably well in part shade. A quick grower, it will get bushier with each picking. The leaves and flowers are used, and it smells absolutely heavenly throughout the whole process.

Place the plants along a walkway and inhale deeply every time you pass—the flowers are also popular with pollinators.

Minnesota State Horticultural Society

DA

“

This summer grow these lovely herbs and flowers for relaxing tea breaks all winter long.”

Raspberry Leaf (Rubus idaeus) It’s important to note: raspberry leaf tea doesn’t taste like raspberries. But it has a verdant, slightly grassy taste that is especially good mixed with chamomile or any of the mints. When I prune out old raspberry canes in late summer, I reserve a few for tea. Once dry, I strip the leaves off and discard the canes.

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea, E. angustifolia or E. pallida) Echinacea has a very mild floral flavor.

The flowers are large and impractical for brewing, so we process the dried flower heads in the food processor to make the final product easier to work with.

Jennifer Rensenbrink grows herbal teas and more in south Minneapolis.

Follow her gardening adventures on Instagram @jenniferrensenbrink.

N

N

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Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) There are two types of chamomile, Roman or German—I’ve had better luck growing German. German chamomile is an annual that will self-seed to some extent. It is only worth growing in full sun, otherwise it will be very leggy and only produce a few flowers, and you want some flowers for tea.

It tolerates containers but gets larger and bushier planted directly into the ground.

I cut the flower stems with scissors, then make small bouquets to hang upside down to dry. Once they’re dry, I cut each bouquet into 1- to 2-inch sections and throw it all—stems, tiny leaves, flowers—into a big jar for keeping. Large stem pieces can be discarded.

SO HN JO

Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis) The final mint family member for this list is a popular one: lemon balm. Its flavor can be a little strong on its own, but it’s wonderful paired with chamomile or holy basil.

As with peppermint and chocolate mint, we use the leaves of lemon balm, so they lend themselves nicely to growing in part shade. Some northern gardeners overwinter lemon balm—it’s hardy to USDA Zone 4, if properly mulched.

Lemon Verbena (Aloysia citrodora) Here’s another lemon-flavored tea plant, with a taste that is more floral and more intense than lemon balm. Fresh lemon verbena leaves make a wonderful lemon iced tea in summer.

A perennial shrub in warmer climates, lemon verbena can get surprisingly large over the course of a summer here in Minnesota, especially in the sun. Once dried, the leaves are easy to remove from the woody stems, which can be discarded.

Take Care While herbal teas are considered safe to drink, please consult your doctor if you have unique medical conditions. Raspberry leaf tea is not recommended for pregnant women.

Recipe: Evening in Minneapolis Tea One generous pinch each of: anise hyssop, mint, lemon balm, wild bergamot and chamomile. Pour boiling water over leaves and steep for about 10 minutes.

—J.R.

Herbal Tea Basics Processing and Storage With the exception of coneflowers, try to crush leaves as little as possible in processing. Store them in glass jars, with an open top, inside a cool, dark cupboard. It’s good to leave them exposed to a little bit of air in case they weren’t completely dry when stored. I have also used cloth tops on jars.

Beat the Bugs The best time to harvest herbs from the mint family is in May and June before four-lined plant bugs (above) emerge. They can damage or even defoliate mints. Four-lined plant bugs reproduce by laying their eggs in the stems of the plants they’ve recently defoliated—those eggs then overwinter in the stems. To reduce their impact next year, cut your damaged plants to the ground in late July and put the plant material in the garbage, not your compost.

Mints are very hard to kill. They will definitely come back.

Brewing I brew my teas in a tea brewing basket for around 10 minutes. None of these teas contain caffeine, and all of them are fine for bedtime.

Drying I’ve settled on drying most of my herbal tea plants in baskets, but there are many ways to do it. For larger plants such as raspberry leaf and purple coneflowers, I hang them upside down in my laundry room from a clothesline until they are dry enough to process. Some people like using paper grocery bags, with the bouquet hanging upside down inside. Experiment with what works best for you.

Medicinal Plants I’ve tried a number of medicinal tea plants, including feverfew, hops, calendula and goldenrod. Some tasted like hot liquid aspirin. Wild bergamot has a good flavor, but it’s intense and can be too stimulating for bedtime. Try blending tiny amounts of the medicinal tea plants with something sweet like chamomile or holy basil.

—J.R.

Herbs dried and ready for storage.

Herbs can be brewed alone or in combinations.

Northern Gardener l March/April 2021

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NORTHERN VIEW

New Garden Elements 2021

2021

ENTHUSIASM

IMAGINATION

2021

2021

E

Ex

I

P

EXPERIMENT

PERSEVERANCE

2021

2021

CALM

SHARING

Ca Sh one of the first lessons gardeners learn about plants is that they need the elements NPK—nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium—to grow healthy and strong. But just as important might be the EIP that gardeners bring to the garden.

EIP?

Yes, EIP—enthusiasm, imagination and perseverance.

Gardeners need to bring their enthusiasm to gardening. No half-hearted attempts allowed. Bring it all. Your energy, your cheerful attitude, your belief that your garden will be an overwhelming success. That’s what enthusiasm is all about.

Add in some imagination, too. Don’t just look over the fence to see what your neighbor is growing in his or her garden and grow that. Grow what you love. Imagine your garden how you want it to be and then strive to make your garden all of that and then some.

Then, top it off with a heap of perseverance. Never give up on your dream of having a wonderful garden. Keep at it.

Learn more. Keep digging and hoeing and weeding. Sure, you can rest every once in a while, (what is winter for?) but then get right back to it. Persevere and you’ll be amazed at the results in your garden and how well your plants will grow.

Now, we know there are tests for NPK to determine if you need to add

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

more of those elements to your garden soil. There are currently, however, no tests for EIP levels. They aren’t necessary. You can safely add more EIP at any time and the results will be beyond your wildest expectations. Your garden will absorb all you give it.

Remember, too, to add in some of those trace or minor elements that may be just as important as EIP. I’m not talking about elements like iron or magnesium, which also benefit the plants.

I’m referring to Ex and C, which stand for experimentation and creativity.

Experiment in your garden! Not sure a plant will grow well? Experiment a bit and try to grow it anyway. Not sure if those flowers will work well together?

Be creative and put them together. And not sure which varieties of your favorite vegetables will produce the best in your climate? You know what to do. Experiment with several different varieties.

Even if the experiment fails, you’ll learn something, and the results may surprise you. A little Ex and C may take your wonderful garden over the top and make it a garden like no other. Which is exactly what you want.

Since we are now talking about these previously undiscussed elements, I might as well tell you about exciting research that shows how plants can take S and turn it into Ca. Plants can take your stress and turn it into your calm,

just by you being around them. And you thought plants just did photosynthesis.

We are just beginning with all these discoveries. Every day in my garden, I find new elements. For example, I realized that Sh is also important in gardening. Sh stands for sharing. Gardeners know that by sharing from their own gardens with others—with cuttings, divisions, extra produce, even knowledge—their gardens will continue to grow better for them and for those who received their gifts, too.

The good news about E, I, P, Ex, Ca and Sh is that they are free and there’s an unlimited supply. So, don’t try to hoard them. Share them with everyone.

And encourage other gardeners to do the same. Then watch your stress turn to calm, notice how your enthusiasm, imagination and perseverance make you want to be in your garden even longer, then see how all these new elements give you countless ideas to increase your experimentation and creativity, which finally leads to sharing.

The results will be amazing!

Carol Michel is an author, blogger, podcaster and gardener. Check out her books and other information at caroljmichel.com.

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