Northern Gardener - July/August 2021

B U I L D YO U R OW N GA R D E N B E N C H

Gardener Northern

A MINNESOTA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY PUBLICATION

JULY/AUGUST 2021

Poppies IN PRAISE OF

WANTED:

PLANT PEOPLE

5 BEST

TIPS FOR GARDEN ART

Gooseberries & Currants U.S. $4.99 Can. $5.99 Display until August 31

JULY/AUGUST 2021 l VOLUME 149 l NUMBER 4

Table of Contents 22

26

Garden Harmony

Curate Your Garden

BY SONI FORSMAN

BY DIANE MCGANN

With water, lighting and plants, this landscape hits all the right notes.

Picking the right art and placing it well creates a garden gallery.

30 Help Wanted

Horticulture needs people—here’s how gardeners can help.

BY GAIL BROWN HUDSON

IN EVERY ISSUE 2 Director’s Note 4 MSHS News: Classes, calendar and more.

34

In Praise of Poppies

They can be fickle, but these delicate flowers are worth the wait.

The Magic of Leaf Mold

14 Garden Solutions: A midsummer’s chop.

By Laura Schwarz

37

16 Pollinators: Porch light pollinators.

By Rhonda Fleming Hayes

From Banned to Bountiful

18 Kitchen Garden: Perennial vegetables.

By Samantha Johnson

BY JENNIFER RENSENBRINK

20 Plant to Pick: Hydrangea paniculata ‘Renba’. By Debbie Lonnee

Build your soil with this gift from your trees.

BY LEE REICH

13

By Design: Placing plants.

By Diane McGann

BY SAMANTHA JOHNSON

Gooseberries and currants grow even in shade.

40

12 Northern Natives: Purple lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabili). By Beth Stetenfeld

21 DIY: Modern garden bench.

By Eric Johnson 44 Northern View: “Computer: Mow the lawn.” By Mary Lahr Schier

ABOUT THE COVER: Delicate California poppies wave in the breeze. Photo by Rhonda Fleming Hayes

Our Garden-in-a-Box program has been nurturing gardeners for more than 10 years.

A NOTE FROM

L

Rick Juliusson, Executive Director Lara Lau-Schommer, Education and Outreach Director

others. As Gail Brown Hudson shares so wonderfully on page 30, horticulture needs people. Of all the ways to view and assess our work, I think that inspiring and supporting young growers is the most important. Our next generation of growers will continue to care for and expand the precious seeds we have sown. Thank you for mentoring, sharing our Dig In! zine and online Resource Hub, passing along this magazine, and all the other ways that you reach out and share your love for gardening.

— Rick Juliusson (he/him) Executive Director

P.S. Yet another positive impact of gardening is environmental. “Habitat for Beneficial Wildlife” is one of the five judging criteria in our second annual photo contest. Please share your garden photos this summer on social media. For more information about the contest, go to northerngardener.org/ great-gardening-contest. @mnhort

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

Laura Wagner, Chair Del Hampton, Treasurer Mary Marrow, Secretary Mike Heger Debra Kvamme Renay Leone Judy MacManus Mary Hockenberry Meyer Rhys Williams

MSHS Staff

The Director ook up “horticulture” in the dictionary (did I just date myself?) and you’ll read about “the growing of ornamental, edible and medicinal plants.” While we do love our roses and rutabagas, there is so much more to growing plants.

In an interview earlier this year on AM950 Food Freedom Radio, the host and I focused on food security.

Particularly during the pandemic, we at MSHS worked hard to grow more, share more and provide space, materials and education for the new wave of gardeners. You can hear the interview at am950radio.com/food-freedom-radiojanuary-23-2021.

Another interview with Friends for a Nonviolent World looked at the intersection of horticulture and peace.

What an opportunity to explore how our work builds community, breaks down barriers and creates more equitable access to the physical and mental health benefits of gardening.

The full interview is available at fnvw.org; search for Minnesota State Horticultural Society.

At the center of this mosaic are people like you and me doing this work, creating beauty and sharing it with

MSHS Board of Directors

Becky Swee, Communications and Marketing Director Diane Duvall, Development Director Courtney Tchida, Community Programs Director Sue Hoehn, Administrative Support Ann Londrigan, Membership Associate Betsy Pierre, Advertising Sales Manager

Northern Gardener Magazine Mary Lahr Schier, Editor Debbie Lonnee, Horticultural Editor Julie Jensen, Copy Editor Barbara Pederson, Designer Joe Luca, Newsstand Consultant

Copyright 2021 by MSHS. Printed in the USA on recycled paper. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reprinted without permission from MSHS. The information published in Northern Gardener reflects the experiences and opinions of the writers and is not necessarily endorsed by MSHS. Northern Gardener is a registered trademark of MSHS. (ISSN) 1529-8515. Northern Gardener is published bimonthly (Jan/Feb, Mar/Apr, May/June, July/Aug, Sept/ Oct, Nov/Dec) by the Minnesota State Horticultural Society. Periodicals postage paid at St. Paul, Minn., and additional post offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Northern Gardener, 1935 County Rd. B2 W., Suite 125, Roseville, MN 55113.

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UPCOMING EVENTS

MSHS Calendar

The Trouble with Jumping Worms Thursday, Aug. 19, 1 – 2 p.m. and 3 – 4 p.m. $10 members, $15 nonmembers Location: University of Minnesota, St. Paul campus mall Instructor: James Calkins

Join us for a discussion about nonnative earthworms with a focus on jumping worms and the threat they pose to native ecosystems and designed landscapes. We’ll discuss identification, spread, their impacts and resources for gardeners. You'll also have an opportunity to observe and learn to identify these invasive earthworms.

How to Enter the MSHS State Fair Potted Plant Show Tuesday, June 29, noon – 1 p.m.

Free Panel: MSHS Judging & Exhibiting Committee

Join us for an online panel discussion to learn how to enter your houseplants in the MSHS State Fair Potted Plant Show.

Exhibiting at the show is a fun learning experience and you can earn a little money and show off your plants while engaging in friendly competition. The MSHS Potted Plant Show is held the first two days of the Minnesota State Fair in the Horticulture Building.

Veggie Garden Pest Management Tuesday, July 13, 6:30 – 7:30 p.m. $5 members, $10 nonmembers (free for GIAB members and Minnesota Green participants) Instructor: Courtney Tchida, MSHS Community Programs Director

Vegetable plants can attract a wide variety of pests. In this webinar, you will learn how to manage them and minimize their impact on your harvest.

Get the inside scoop on integrated pest management tools for everything from squash vine borers and flea beetles to cabbage loopers.

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

Landscape Design Basics Five sessions: Mondays, Sept. 20 – Oct. 18, 6 – 9 p.m. $149 members; $159 nonmembers. Price includes 15 hours of instruction, a comprehensive course packet, lab materials and a set of basic landscape design tools.

Registration deadline: Sept. 13 Instructors: Julie Wiesenhorn and Jim Calkins, University of Minnesota Extension

Mark your calendar for this fall edition of one of our most popular classes. In this five-session, online workshop you will learn the theory and basic principles of sustainable landscape design and how to avoid the mistakes that are commonly made by novices and professionals alike. The curriculum is comprehensive and has been specifically developed to allow participants to use their own property as a class project by designing an entry garden, a deck or patio garden, or other landscape space.

Each workshop session will culminate in a hands-on, at-home assignment.

Assignments will allow participants to put pencil to paper and apply the techniques learned to their personal landscape project in preparation for the next class and the next steps in the landscape design sequence. The workshop will also include time for personalized critiques of your ideas during the last four sessions as you develop your designs.

UPCOMING EVENTS

Community Events

Native Seed Collecting and Processing Dates and location to be announced $5 members, $10 nonmembers (free for MN SEED project members) Instructors: Courtney Tchida, MSHS; Dawn Lamm, Como Community Seed Library; and Stephanie Hankerson, garden educator

MN SEED's Native Plant Community Science Project participants have been identifying and inventorying the native plants in our gardens this summer. When those flowers ripen into seeds, we will start our seed collection and processing demonstration events. Please check northerngardener.org/mn-seed-project for information on dates and locations.

The recordings of the Native Plant Identification class and the iNaturalist Orientation and other resources for saving and sharing seeds are available there as well.

Cultivating a Deeper Relationship with the Land Tuesday, Sept. 14, 6:30 – 7:30 p.m. $5 members, $10 nonmembers (free for GIAB members and Minnesota Green participants) Instructor: Paula Westmoreland, permaculture designer, Ecological Design

In this class, Paula will help us explore ways to deepen our relationship with the land. From soil health to water protection, you will learn conservation practices that will help regenerate and grow the land we steward.

See all upcoming classes and register at northerngardener.org/classes.

Evenings in the Garden Carver-Scott Master Gardeners Second and fourth Tuesdays, June 8 – Aug. 10, 6:30 – 8:30 p.m.

Scott County Fairgrounds Teaching Garden, 7151 W. 190th St., Jordan.

Classes include: Food Preservation and Jam Making, Creating Nature Mandalas and Yoga in the Garden. All are free.

For class information, carverscottmastergardeners.org/evenings-in-the-garden.

Contact: meliasen1@me.com.

Flower Show and Summer Picnic Minnesota Gladiolus Society Saturday, July 24, 9 a.m. for setup, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. for viewing.

Sunday, July 25, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Cologne Glad Days, 107 John Ave. N., Cologne.

Held in conjunction with the Cologne Glad Days 20th Anniversary Celebration. Entries can be single spikes or arrangements of your own flowers or those provided. Bring your own props.

Contact: Jim or Karen, 763-972-2426 for themes for interpretative arrangements.

Flower, Food and Foto Show Men’s and Women’s Garden Club of Minneapolis Saturday, Aug. 14, 12:30 – 4:30 p.m., flower and food entries accepted 7 – 10:15 a.m.

Sunday, Aug. 15, 10:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.

University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Oswald Center, 3675 Arboretum Dr., Chanhassen.

This is an open competition. Enter any flower, vegetable or photo. The featured flower this year is cosmos (C. bipinnatusor, C. sulphureus) and the featured vegetable is herbs.

Photo entries must be submitted by July 31.

Arboretum entry fees apply. Show schedule and rules can be found at gardenclubmpls.org.

Contact: Becky, bdelacruz463@gmail.com.

Gladiolus Show at Brown County Fair Minnesota Gladiolus Society Friday, Aug. 13, 5 – 9 p.m. setup.

Saturday, Aug. 14, 1 – 9 p.m.

Sunday, Aug. 15, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.

Brown County Free Fair, New Ulm Civic Center, 1212 Franklin St. N., New Ulm. The theme for interpretive arrangements this year is “Beer, Baseball and Firefighters” (to honor New Ulm events). Any age is welcome to do arrangements. Bring your own props.

Contact: Joy, 507-276-6698.

University of Minnesota Orchid Collection Orchid Society of Minnesota Saturday, Aug. 21, 1 – 3 p.m.

This is a Zoom meeting. Charles Huston, orchid and gesneriad specialist for the U of M College of Biological Sciences will lead a virtual tour of the university’s collection of 90 orchid species, including photos of some in bloom.

Contact: orchidsocietyofminnesota@gmail.com for meeting link.

Community Events continue on page 9.

Northern Gardener l July/August 2021

5

THIS SEASON IN THE GARDEN

TIPS & TRICKS FOR YOUR

summer garden Garden to Table

JULY

I NGR EDI EN TS

2 cups fresh pineapple chunks 2 cups ice cubes 4 ounces tequila 2 ounces pineapple basil simple syrup 1 ounce fresh lime juice 10 large basil leaves

DIRECTIONS

Get the recipe for pineapple basil simple syrup at:

northerngardener.org/pineapple-basil-margarita.

TO MAKE THE RANCH DIPPING SAUCE: Combine

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

Harvest herbs and vegetables such as greens, beets, zucchini and summer squash.

Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Pour into salt-rimmed glasses and garnish with a sprig of basil and a pineapple chunk.

Makes 4 cocktails.

Use whatever veggies are ripe for harvest in your garden—onions, zucchini, cherry tomatoes, summer squash or peppers all work well. Cut into 1-inch pieces, assemble on a skewer, brush with olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Cook on the grill at medium heat until soft and lightly charred.

Note: If cooking tomatoes, grill them on a separate skewer.

They cook faster than the rest of the veggies.

northerngardener.org/ recipes.

Look for pests, mildew and signs of nutrient deficiencies that become more noticeable this month.

pineapple basil margarita

grilled veggie kebabs with herbed ranch

Find more recipes with garden-fresh ingredients at

Deadhead spent blossoms to encourage new blooms on your plants.

Weed regularly, especially after a rain. It’s easier to pull a couple of weeds every day, before they grow larger and go to seed.

in a food processor or blender—1 cup mayonnaise, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon fresh cracked pepper, 3 tablespoons fresh chopped dill, 2 tablespoons fresh chopped chives, 2 cloves peeled garlic and 3/4 cup buttermilk— and blend until smooth. Add more salt and pepper to taste.

For more seasonal gardening tips: northerngardener.org/ seasonal-guide.

AUGUST

Lush gardens, bountiful harvests, hot barbecues and cold treats are the stuff of summertime daydreams.

Northern gardeners, now is our chance to hang a hammock, sip a margarita and reap what we sowed.

Garden beds and containers are bursting with blooms, buzzing with pollinators, and armfuls of fresh, homegrown fruits and vegetables feel like a tasty reward for enduring those notoriously long, cold winters. So, when summer sets in, let’s make the most of it—cut a fresh bouquet; fire up the grill or blender; look no further than your yard, patio or windowsill for homegrown ingredients and celebrate the season.

SUMMER TIMELINE

Plant fall crops. Stretch the growing season by starting leaf lettuce, kale, radishes and spinach in a shady spot or indoors to avoid heat stress and enjoy a September harvest.

Keep your garden hydrated.

Plants in the ground need about an inch a week from rain or the hose.

Harvest often. Drowning in cucumbers and tomatoes?

Share with friends, neighbors or a local food shelf.

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Northern Gardener l July/August 2021

7

MSHS NEWS

MEMBERSHIP

FUNDRAISING

Welcome, Members!

Virtual Garden Gala Supports MSHS

whether you’ve been a member for decades or you just joined, we’re here to help you grow as a gardener. Take advantage of discounts at garden centers and nurseries across the Upper Midwest and don’t miss out on free and discounted webinars and workshops. Remember, your email address unlocks your digital membership card and gets you our monthly enewsletter chock full of great tips, tricks and resources for gardeners. Visit northerngardener.org/ membership or email membership@ northerngardener.org to learn more.

Thank you for joining us at our first virtual Spring Garden Gala! We had a record number of guests attending this year from Minnesota and Wisconsin to Colorado. Special thanks to Bailey Nurseries and Monrovia for sponsoring this event, to our many silent auction and raffle donors and to all of you who answered our call for support with your donations and gala purchases. Your gifts from this event will help community gardeners grow food, build vibrant public green spaces and teach our youngest gardeners how to grow their own food this summer.

TO LEARN MORE ABOUT SUPPORTING MSHS, VISIT NORTHERNGARDENER.ORG/SUPPORT.

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

UPDATE

a minnesota and mshs tradition, the Great Minnesota Get-Together might be that much greater after being cancelled last year. Whatever form this year’s celebration takes, we’re excited to connect with you again. Register for our potted plant show, stock up on your favorite garden gloves and T-shirts, join or renew your membership and don’t miss our educational display in the Dirt Wing of the Agriculture/ Horticulture Building.

For up-to-date information about our booth at the fair, visit northerngardener. org/mn-state-fair.

MSHS NEWS

COMMUNITY EVENTS Continued from page 5.

Ready to gather in the garden again?

Minnesota State Fair Gladiolus Show Minnesota Gladiolus Society Setup begins: Friday, Aug. 27, 5 p.m.

Show: Saturday and Sunday, Aug, 28 – 29, noon – 9 p.m.

Minnesota State Fairgrounds Agriculture/ Horticulture Building, 1271 Underwood St., Falcon Heights.

Contact: Jim, 651-780-1681.

Plant Sale Carver-Scott Master Gardeners Saturday, Aug. 28. 9 a.m. - noon Cub Foods, 200 Pioneer Trl., Chaska.

Perennial divisions from master gardeners’ yards, plus fresh produce and more.

Proceeds benefit community programs in Carver and Scott counties.

Contact: Mary, meliasen1@me.com.

Community Events continue on page 11.

Our annual Garden Gathering is back this summer and scheduled for July 15. Please join your fellow gardeners and MSHS supporters for a tour and light refreshments at a very special garden featured on page 22 of this issue of Northern Gardener magazine.

To learn more about this donor event and how to qualify, email dduvall@ northerngardener.org for more information.

To learn more about community programs powered by your donations, visit northerngardener.org/community-programs.

Sprinklers

Available at your local Independent Garden Center or Online Retailer

Professional Watering Tools used by Growers Worldwide

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Northern Gardener l July/August 2021

9

MSHS NEWS

MEMBER SPOTLIGHT

A Gardening Tradition “i know that my mom had a hand in all of this,” says new MSHS member Amy Trossen. “Some of my earliest memories are in the garden.”

Amy grew up on a 3-acre property in Brooklyn Park, along with her nine brothers and sisters. Her dad was a plumber and her mom stayed at home raising the large family. “We spent our summers running around the garden, weeding and picking this and eating that,” says Amy. Each sibling was given their own little garden to work with, which provided early lessons in how to grow. “I learned a lot from what didn’t work and was inspired by what did,” says Amy. With a family and a career in information technology, Amy began hiring others to take care of her lawn and landscaping. “I just didn’t have the time with all the travel,” she says.

When she retired from Datalink Corp. about five years ago, she was ready to return to gardening. “I had a brief plan to move to the Cayman Islands—a place I visit several times a year—but my children wanted me closer to home,” she says.

Amy was looking for a new home and found an ad for a small, 1918 farmhouse in Plymouth. The gardens were beautiful but had been neglected.

“

I am teaching them how to pick blueberries, and it is such a joy.”

– Amy Trossen

“There were peonies, blueberry bushes, asparagus and the remnants of a tree farm with weeds as tall as corn stalks, and I just fell in love with it,” Amy says.

The property has just the right amount of sun and trees for her to express her passion for gardening which she shares with her two children and her 4- and 2-year-old grandsons, Levi and Jedidiah.

“I’m teaching them how to pick blueberries and it’s such a joy!” she says.

Amy joined MSHS during April, when a buy-one-get-one membership deal was on offer. She gave her daughter a membership, too. “I’m helping my daughter put in her gardens at her home in Burnsville for her family and my grandchildren to enjoy, so it seemed like a good time to join,” says Amy. Her son, Sean, is also gardening and has a 20-acre hobby farm in Buffalo where he has chickens and goats. “That’s gardening on a whole other level,” says Amy. As for Amy’s nine siblings, all but one have gardens of their own. “We have a tradition of doing walk-abouts in the garden,” she says. “It’s so much fun to see what’s coming up, what’s ready to be harvested. In the end, it’s all about sharing the joy my mom instilled in all of us when we were young.”

Above: Amy Trossen enjoys the garden with her grandchildren.

Left to right: Amy’s 1918 home is surrounded by gardens; allium; lettuce grows in Amy's vegetable garden. to learn more, visit northerngardener.org/membership.

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

MSHS NEWS

COMMUNITY EVENTS

COMMUNITY CONNECTIONS

Continued from page 9.

Signature Programs Growing in 2021

Garden Tours

MINNESOTA GREEN: PLANTING SEEDS In 2021, 117 neighborhood associations, nonprofits, and community, school and church gardens joined Minnesota Green. More than 10,600 seed packets were distributed to more than 200 gardens throughout the state. With the threat of invasive jumping worms, we have adopted a policy to share only plants that are bareroot or potted in commercial planting media—we are not accepting plant donations in garden soil at this time.

Tracy Area Gardens and Quilts Tour Wednesday, July 7, 2 – 7:30 p.m.

Visit five gardens with more than 70 quilts on display. Pie and ice cream served at The Caboose, Highway 14, in Tracy for tour attendees. Tickets: $15, available at The Caboose on day of tour. Rain date is July 8.

Contact: facebook.com/ tracyareagardentour.

Northfield Garden Club Garden Tour Saturday, July 10, and Sunday, July 11, 11 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Theme: Hope and New Beginnings.

Six gardens open with artists.

Cost: $10. For descriptions and to purchase a ticket, visit thenorthfieldgardenclub.org. Covid protocols will be observed, Proceeds go toward the beautification of downtown Northfield.

Contact: elizabeth.k.olson1@gmail.com.

Carver-Scott Master Gardeners Garden Tours Saturday, July 10, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Saturday, July 24, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Saturday, Aug. 7, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.

View beautiful gardens in Carver County on one or all of the tours. Cost: $10 per tour, or purchase all three tours for $20 per person. Information at carverscottmastergardeners.org/ garden-tour.

Contact: Mary, meliasen1@me.com. find a full list of community events at northerngardener.org/calendar.

GARDEN-IN-A-BOX GROWTH Yard-long beans, pak choy, cowpeas and tomatillos are some of the culturally relevant foods that Garden-in-a-Box (GIAB) participants are growing this year as part of our mission to cultivate a healthy, diverse and sustainable community of northern gardeners. We are also diversifying this program geographically—stretching north to Warren, International Falls and Aurora, and south to Austin, Fairmont and Worthington. GIAB now operates in 38 counties.

Even with 67 new applicants this year, we were able to supply every applying organization with gear to start gardening. We distributed 659 garden circles from Hunt Utilities Group of Pine River to participants. We also partnered with local garden centers to supply greater Minnesota sites with soil, compost and plants for the boxes. Special thanks to Wagners Garden Center for generously donating more than 3,000 plants to Twin Cities-area participants this year, and to Sustane for providing compost tea packets that nurture these garden beds. GIAB also depends on vital support from Cargill, the St. Paul Garden Club and MSHS members.

MASTER GARDENER SPOTLIGHT

Monarch Waystation Project in september 2020, university of minnesota extension master gardeners in Crow Wing County spearheaded an effort to create a Monarch Waystation on the Central Minnesota Adult and Teen Challenge campus in Brainerd, a facility for people battling addictions. Master gardeners Pauline Condon and Susan Lutz lead the project and teamed up with seven program participants who jumped at the chance to create a space that would benefit monarch butterflies. The group spent hours mulching and adding more than 65 donated plants, such as asters, milkweed and coneflowers, to a formerly unused space. Then they collaborated with campus faculty to establish a watering plan and make sure the garden would thrive.

The result? A 24-by-20-foot garden, full of foliage and busy pollinators. The garden serves as a rich food source and habitat for monarchs. Its informative signage makes it educational for visitors and it is a beautiful gathering place on campus. Valuable lessons came out of gardening together, too. The planting team learned why specific plants were chosen, based on things like bloom time and benefits to pollinators. As the garden grows this season, Lutz is completing the requirements to make it a certified Monarch Waystation.

For more information, visit crowwingmastergardeners.org/projects.

Northern Gardener l July/August 2021

11

NORTHERN NATIVES

BETH STETENFELD

Purple lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis)

purple lovegrass is hard to ignore at the peak of its showy blooming, in mid- to late summer. While in other seasons it supports and blends with surrounding grasses and forbs, in the hottest summer weeks its soft, pink to purple inflorescence is dramatic. When the sun hits the clouds of puffy seed heads (florets) at the right angle, they seem to sparkle.

Found in even the poorest of soils, purple lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis) thrives in sunny, sandy and gravelly sites— even along roadsides that receive winter road salt. It also grows under black walnut trees, where other plants fail, and it can effectively replace turfgrass in hot, sandy locations.

A host plant for the grass moth and the Hobomok and Zabulon skipper butterflies, purple lovegrass has no serious insect or disease problems. It provides cover, forage and nesting material for a wide range of birds and small mammals, although it is deer- and rabbit-resistant.

This native grass is a good choice for meadow gardens, rock gardens, slopes and sites requiring erosion control. While it prefers moist, well-draining soils, it tolerates drought once established. Best not planted where water puddles, it does work well in beach gardens or well-draining containers.

Good companions include spotted beebalm (Monarda punctata), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) and orange coneflower (Rudbeckia fulgida), which bloom around the same time; prairie blazing star (Liatris pycnostachya), which blooms earlier and provides good structure; and various American asters (Symphyotrichum spp.), which bloom later and blend well

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

with the bronzing seed heads of purple lovegrass.

In its natural habitat along sandy sites throughout the eastern United States, purple lovegrass often colonizes along hilly and sand prairies, upland savannas, sandy paths and meadows.

Other grasses tend to dominate in more moist, fertile soils and habitats. Most of the plant’s growth occurs during the warmest summer days.

In its natural setting, purple lovegrass spreads via underground rhizomes, and it self-seeds. Its basal foliage is green, while its warm-season, colorful florets develop above its early-season growth.

Purple lovegrass starts easily from seed sown on its optimal moist, sandy soil. The seeds are small and need light to germinate, so gently pressing them into the soil yields the best results. Seeds must be kept moist until germination. They can be started indoors in early spring for transplanting or sown directly in the garden when temperatures are reliably warmer. Purple lovegrass also grows well from divisions of existing plants.

With the right growing conditions, purple lovegrass can add a dramatic swath of color to the mid- to late-summer garden.

It can naturalize a meadow, decorate a border area or serve as an ornamental grass in a more structured garden or a potted arrangement. It’s also a good structural element in cut and dried arrangements.

Purple lovegrass is one of those plants that seems unassuming, until you see it at its peak of dramatic display. And then, it cannot be ignored.

At a Glance: Purple Lovegrass Hardiness: USDA Zone 4.

Native Habitat: Native to sandy soils from Maine to the Dakotas; south to Florida, Texas and Arizona.

Often found in dune grasslands, prairies, barrens and open woodlands. Blooms in the hottest weeks of the summer—generally late July through mid-August.

Size: 1 to 3 feet tall; 1 to 3 feet wide.

Site: Thrives in full to partial sun, in moist, sandy soils.

Propagation: Easy to propagate by division or by tamping seeds directly onto soil surface; needs light to germinate. Sow indoors in early spring and transplant, or sow directly outside.

Cultivars and Other Species: Eragrostis spectabilis and related species E. frankii, E. hypnoides, E. pectinacea and E. trichodes are members of the grass family (Poaceae).

—B.R.S. Native-plant enthusiast Beth Stetenfeld is a garden blogger and writer, and a master naturalist volunteer and instructor.

BY DESIGN

Placing Plants have you ever thought that your garden would look better if you knew how to arrange plants to their best advantage? Putting plants in the right spots and with the right neighbors can be challenging, but luckily there are some design principles to help you arrange your garden puzzle pieces to make a more beautiful whole.

Know your style. Do you like a formal look, or is a cottage garden your preference? Should it be a calming or a colorful vision, a screen of your neighbor’s yard, a very low-maintenance green space, a site you’ll primarily view in the evening, or a combination of these and other priorities? Think through what you really want, and make a list of your main goals. Then, use that list to arrange the garden and create the landscape you desire.

Plant odd numbers. You’ve heard this one, but it’s true. Three, five or seven of something in a grouping looks better than two or four. Better yet, group 15 or more. Once numbers get that large, the odd-even count doesn’t matter.

Decide on a color scheme. Think about the colors you love and use them throughout your yard. For tranquility’s sake, employ an overall color scheme rather than one color pattern here and a different one there. If the garden frames the house, make sure that the plantings either reflect colors in the structure or complement it. I have ruby-toned plants to echo my magenta-colored front door, while my neighbor has brightly hued tulips that display beautifully against her dark

PHOTOS: DIANE MCGANN

Group plants with similar growing requirements together. This makes life easier, allows your plants to Mass plantings thrive, and lets you focus watering and pest management in only certain parts of the yard. I have a garden bed far from my house where I group plants that can handle drought because I’ll never haul the hose out there.

and pleasing to the eye. Pay attention to attractive landscapes and analyze why you like them. I bet masses will be part of the answer.

Mass plants. Unless you’re aiming for a cottage garden effect, your landscape will be prettier if you group more of the same plants together, rather than scattering them all about. I became a believer in this concept while researching massed plants for a previous article and now notice masses of plants wherever I stroll. Large groupings of the same plant are graceful, harmonious

gray house. If you want to separate colors that might conflict with each another, choose blue or white as the go-between—they harmonize with almost all other hues and can serve as buffers between warring plants. A planned overall color scheme will make your garden glow.

Widen foundation beds. Speaking of framing the house, if space allows,

widen those foundation beds to a minimum of 6 feet. As a devotee of anything English, I marvel that the Brits often do away completely with any vegetation near their homes. Here in America, we like foundation plants, and they do really improve the curb appeal of the house.

Wide garden beds are proportionate to the structure and make it appear that the house is nestled in their embrace.

Continue your overall color scheme here; generous beds allow for layered plantings and larger groupings.

Carefully plan edging plants. They’re very visible, so look for low-growing plants to soften harsh edges. An inlay of edging plants is also a useful tool to define a pleasing curve.

Take photos of your garden every couple of weeks. This will help you see what is working and what needs help at different times of the year. When you sit down to plan your garden design next winter, these images will be invaluable.

There are several other tried-and-true measures that can help us arrange our plants to their maximum benefit, and we’ll discuss those in the next issue. But in the meantime, take a fresh look at the challenging areas of your garden and think about how you might rearrange some of your plants to make those areas more pleasing.

Diane McGann is a Stillwater-based master gardener and awardwinning garden writer.

Northern Gardener l July/August 2021

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GARDEN SOLUTIONS

A Midsummer’s Chop a few years ago, i was gardening for a client with an overabundance of Stella d’Oro daylilies. It was August, and that season’s heat and drought had not been kind to the Stellas. Their leaves were limp, bent and yellowing. My crew and I were there to tidy up the gardens, so I made a quick decision to try a new technique: we cut the daylily leaves back to the ground. The garden looked better immediately, and by our next visit, the daylilies had resprouted with cute and tidy growth.

Many flowering perennial plants benefit from a midsummer’s trim.

Here are my suggestions for what to cut and why.

Rejuvenating

Certain spring-blooming perennials will rebloom when deadheaded (removing the spent flower). Bee balm, yarrow, veronica, salvia and catmint are among the more reliable reblooming perennials. On bee balm, simply trim off the flowers as they fade, cutting the stems above a node a few inches down from the expired flowers. Yarrow and veronica flower on longer stems that are easy to differentiate from the plants’ basal leaves (leaves clumped close to the ground around the plant’s base).

I usually cut the old flower stems all the way back to below the basal leaves,

which promotes new flower growth and tidies the plant. Reflowering perennials will produce fewer blooms the second time around, but they’re still welcome!

Full-grown catmint and salvia plants can be cut back almost to the ground after they flower. This can be a little tricky, and it can make plants uglier until they start growing back. But I’ve found this practice effective for dealing with plants that quickly outgrow their allotted spaces and often flop over when fully grown. Within a few weeks, the plant will produce fresh new growth that will eventually flower, and you can avoid the awkwardness of trying to stake them. (New varieties of both catmint and salvia have been bred for tidier growth habits.)

Removing Diseased or Ugly Foliage

By mid- to late summer, certain plant pests can be unavoidable. Powdery mildew is a plant disease that creates white or gray fungal growth on the upper sides of infected leaves. In extreme cases, the fungus quickly covers the entire plant, making fungicide treatment impossible. Peony, phlox, baptisia and bee balm, especially the older varieties, are among those perennials most susceptible to powdery mildew.

Below, left: Nepeta faassenii 'Walker's Low' looks better and will bloom again when trimmed in midsummer.

Above: Trim veronica blooms for a tidy look.

Right: Cut coneflowers before seeds disperse.

To prevent powdery mildew from spreading (and to keep my gardens from looking ugly!), I will sometimes chop diseased or damaged plants back to the ground. This works best with plants that are well established, because they’ll need a good store of energy to stay alive without continuing to photosynthesize.

If you do this with peonies, know that they will not produce any new leaves during this growing season—but the plant should reappear next year.

Helenium and daylilies can also survive a hard cut.

Preventing Seed Dispersal

I trim some perennials immediately after flowering to prevent their seeds from spreading around my gardens.

These include liatris, rudbeckia, globe thistle, butterfly weed, coneflowers and joe-pye weed. If you’re growing a wild, natural-styled garden, these plants are excellent options for reliable selfseeding. In more formal garden beds,

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these pollinatorfriendly perennials require extra manicuring. Cut the flowers back as soon as they lose their color. If they’ve already set seeds, make sure to remove your trimmings from the gardens.

PHOTOS: WALTERS GARDENS, MARY LAHR SCHIER

Boosting Fall Bloomers

In midsummer, fall-blooming perennials are growing vigorously, consuming as much water and sunlight as they can in preparation for their upcoming flower shows.

However, upright sedums, asters and chrysanthemums can get top-heavy by bloom time. Cutting these plants back in midsummer will promote stem branching at the point of the cuts.

This practice has two benefits: it helps

stabilize the plant because it will not grow as tall as it normally would have and it increases flower production. Each stem that you cut will branch, giving you two flower stems instead of one. I trim these plants before July 4, which is a loose deadline to ensure the plants haven’t already started setting their flower buds. Cut each stem directly above its second or third node from the top.

Horticulturist Laura Schwarz writes and gardens in Minneapolis.

www.mnponds.com 763-458-8104

Create. Maintain. Repair. Plants.

Northern Gardener l July/August 2021

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POLLINATORS

Porch Light Pollinators I’m always looking at the world of pollinators for a new angle, yet I hadn’t really delved into the subject of moths until recently. Although moths share the order Lepidoptera with butterflies, public interest leans heavily to the latter, and I’ve been guilty of the same attitude. But as I’ve been digging into the shadowy world of this often-maligned and overlooked species, I’ve discovered that moths are fascinating.

PHOTOS: RHONDA FLEMING HAYES

• Moths outnumber butterflies 10:1, with somewhere between 150,000 to 500,000 species in the world, with 11,000 species in North America.

• Moths are among the most diverse and successful organisms on the planet.

• Most are nocturnal and their muted colors make them harder to observe.

• Moths are hairier and fatter than butterflies.

• Their antennae are feathery and clubbed at the tip.

• At rest, they flatten their wings or spread them in a “jet plane” position.

• They shiver their flight muscles to stay warm after the sun goes down.

• Moth larvae (caterpillars) may chew on leaves, buds, flowers, stems and seeds.

A snowberry clearwing moth on Verbena bonariensis

So Many Moths

During the day, you may see different sphinx moths buzzing about, often mistaken for hummingbirds. They forage on a variety of plants, but I see them frequently on purple-colored flowers composed of many florets. They use their long proboscises to access nectar.

Adult moths are pretty harmless; some Most moths are drab and dull don’t even have functioning but many are spotted, banded mouth parts. It’s the ravenous Moths or striped. Some are shades of larvae that earn moths their outnumber green; the tiny primrose moth bad reputation, especially the butterflies is a bright pink. Several species ones munching on sweaters or have a pink or red petticoat pitching tents in treetops. And 10:1 beneath their wings. Others, yes, the larvae do eat all manner such as the polyphemus moth, are large of plants, but hey, they have to live, too. with distinctive eyespots.

Just remember, caterpillars are bird Sometimes the clue is in the name. food! Bats and spiders dine on them, too.

Many larvae are named for the plants They are a vital part of the food web. they consume—oakworm moth, Moths work the night shift, melonworm moth, mint-loving pyrausta pollinating flowers that bloom late moth, honey locust moth. At times they in the day and in the dark, especially are labeled by their behavior—actions white or pale-colored blooms with a like cut, roll, bore and mine. Examples heavy fragrance, like jasmine, yucca, include army cutworm, basswood moonflower, four o’clocks, tobacco leafroller or ash-tip borer. and gardenia. A moonlight garden More intriguing are the moths with with flowers that glow at dusk would unique names such as ambiguous welcome plenty of moths.

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

White-lined sphinx moth

moth, confused woodgrain moth, the sheet on a windless, dry evening venerable dart, promiscuous angle away from other light sources, then moth and definite tussock moth. You shine a light so that the whole sheet wonder what they is illuminated. You did to deserve such can use any type of monikers. The Hebrew, light, but UV or black the joker, the scribbler lights attract a greater are named because diversity of species. of their scriptlike Be patient as different markings. The rustic moths will arrive NATIONAL MOTH WEEK Quaker and the at different times IS JULY 17-25 somber carpet moth throughout sound so plain the evening. and dour.

Another method for moth-watching is Leave the Porch Light On called sugaring. Combine brown sugar, Moth-watching can be as simple as beer, molasses and overripe fruit such turning on your porch light. You can as bananas. The ratios needn’t be exact. make it more interesting if you hang a Then, let the mixture ferment for a few white sheet where they will congregate days. Paint this malodorous bait on a so you can observe them closely. Hang tree trunk and wait to see what arrives.

Don’t paint it on anything that you don’t want stained.

National Moth Week is July 17-25 this year, but don’t limit your mothwatching to that period. Any time this summer is a great time to view these misunderstood creatures right in your own backyard. Lots of folks even throw moth-watching parties!

Minneapolis-based Rhonda Fleming Hayes is the author of PollinatorFriendly Gardening (Voyageur Press, 2016).

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KITCHEN GARDEN

Perennial Vegetables

Rhubarb Another staple of springtime in the North, rhubarb is hardy and is very easy to propagate. A friend may happily give you a chunk. You’ll want to give it plenty of dedicated space in the garden because it will command a massive presence for years to come. Figure on waiting a couple of years before harvesting any rhubarb—and when you harvest, don’t cut the stalks, yank them out whole to encourage your plant to produce more. In the kitchen, rhubarb is useful in a variety of sweet and savory dishes, especially when paired with its best friend, strawberry.

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

DAN JOHNSON

Asparagus This is the one that springs to mind first in any discussion of perennial vegetables. Asparagus pops up early and is a delight in the kitchen and a favorite in restaurants for its ability to elevate many entrees. Asparagus takes some effort to establish, along with some patience (you won’t harvest asparagus for the first two to three years after planting), but your reward is a hardy, reliable plant that will produce consistently for many years (even decades). Plant asparagus crowns in trenches and choose a location in full sun with well-drained soil. They prefer alkaline soil, which many northerners have.

A favorite perennial vegetable: asparagus

Jerusalem Artichoke While not as common as asparagus or rhubarb, Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus) is a smart choice for northern gardeners. Related to sunflowers, this North American native plant has the same penchant to grow tall. But underground, Jerusalem artichokes are more like potatoes, with multiple tubers growing under the soil. They aren’t fussy about light

or watering, although they don’t like soggy soil. Plant tubers with their eyes toward the sky and treat them similarly to potato plants during the growing season. At harvest time, leave some tubers in the ground to ensure next year’s crop. In the kitchen, you can use Jerusalem artichokes in many of the same ways that you do potatoes; Jerusalem artichokes are also noted for being particularly good in soup.

Jeruselem artichokes (also called sunchokes) can be prolific producers.

ISTOCKPHOTO

gardeners tend to equate “vegetables” with “annuals” and it’s easy to see why. Lettuce, beans, peas, tomatoes—we plant, tend, harvest, eat and then replant them in a reliable and repetitious sequence. But at the same time, we love the ease of perennial garden edibles such as mint and raspberries and chives.

It’s easy to get excited about vegetables that you can plant once and harvest for years, but your choices in this category are admittedly limited, especially here in the North. The good news is that these superlative veggies pack a lot of punch.

Let’s meet a few:

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Ramps Ramps (Allium tricoccum) are also known as wild leeks and are a mainstay of early spring in the kitchen. While you can harvest wild ramps, it’s even more fun to cultivate your own. Here’s the

best part: your cultivated ramps won’t take up any garden space. Ramps don’t appreciate sunshine, so they wouldn’t be happy in your vegetable garden with sun-loving tomatoes and peppers.

Instead, it’s best to grow ramps in a cool, shaded location surrounded by dried leaf matter and plenty of trees. And it’s important to remember that ramps will only come back each spring if the bulb is left intact in the ground. If you harvest the bulb, the plant cannot regrow. You can choose to harvest leaves only, or harvest the bulbs sparingly, leaving the remaining bulbs to continue colonizing. Ramps are delicious in all sorts of recipes— anywhere you would use onion or garlic.

Annual vegetables will certainly dominate most vegetable gardens in the North, but this versatile quartet of perennial vegetables will undoubtedly make a positive contribution to your garden.

Wisconsin-based Samantha Johnson is the author of several books, including Garden DIY, (CompanionHouse Books, 2020).

Visit her online portfolio at samanthajohnson.contently.com.

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Northern Gardener l July/August 2021

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PLANT TO PICK

Hydrangea paniculata ‘Renba’ PP28,509 FIRST EDITIONS® BERRY WHITE® PANICLE HYDRANGEA

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

Easy and Prolific

Panicle hydrangeas are truly the easiest to grow.

They do require a full-sun site, which means a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight per day.

They are relatively tolerant of most soils but will suffer in poorly drained or really dry soils. They are hardy into USDA Zone 3, so most Minnesotans can successfully grow this species of Hydrangea.

PHOTOS: BAILEY NURSERIES INC.

in the past 20 years, panicle hydrangea breeding has exploded. The number of improved cultivars is expanding rapidly from breeders around the world, and northern gardeners are truly benefitting from more choices in this fabulous summer-blooming shrub.

There are now varieties with colors that are an outstanding shade of dark pink to almost red. There are dwarf varieties that fit small gardens. There are varieties that are pruned into small trees that can be used in many ways.

The options are endless.

Over the years, through this column, I’ve shown you some of the breeding work of Jean Renault, a hydrangea breeder in Gorron, France. The first of his introductions was Vanilla Strawberry®, which has become an industry standard. At age 97, Renault is still breeding new plants.

Berry White® is his latest introduction, and while it is similar to Vanilla Strawberry, it has more of what makes Vanilla Strawberry attractive. I like to tell gardeners that it is Vanilla Strawberry on steroids!

Reaching a mature height of 6 to 7 feet and a spread of 4 to 5 feet, it is not a small panicle. But, if you have room, it can be used in an informal hedge, as a background plant for a perennial garden, or in foundation plantings. And, Berry White makes the perfect small tree; it is being grown and offered as a tree form. It has a more upright and stiffer habit than Vanilla Strawberry and does not grow quite as wide.

As with most panicle hydrangeas, Berry White starts blooming in July in Minnesota with that classic coneshaped flower, first appearing white to cream in color. As it matures, pink tones appear, first at the bottom of the panicle and moving up through the florets. By August, it will turn a luscious raspberry red color. Interestingly, nighttime temperatures can really affect the flower color—cooler nights produce more red panicles.

Hybridizer Jean Renault shows off Berry White®, one of his latest hydrangea cultivars.

Berry White, like all panicles, blooms on new wood. Pruning is easy. In early spring, just before or as they are breaking bud, prune them back. I have a tendency to prune mine quite hard, taking them back 30 to 50 percent. Shape them nicely and then let them grow!

For an excellent video on how to prune panicle hydrangeas, visit firsteditionsplants.com/resource/hydrangea-paniculata-pruning. If you prune this way, you will get large flowers, but on heavy stiff stems and the flowers will not fall over from their weight.

The flowers are great cut and put in bouquets. They also dry beautifully, just cut them and hang them in a dry, dark place until they dry out. They can be used indoors all winter long.

There are few insects or diseases that affect this species, and you may want to fertilize them lightly in spring depending on your soil type.

Berry White is available in local garden centers as both a tree and a shrub, and should be easy to find this year.

Enjoy!

Debbie Lonnee gardens in South St. Paul and works in the horticulture industry.

DIY

Modern Garden Bench if gardeners are guilty of one thing, it’s of not stopping to sit and enjoy the spaces we create. A good garden bench can help us to do this. This particular garden bench is streamlined and settles nicely into nearly any garden setting.

It’s an incredibly simple project to take on yourself, whatever your skill level. Perhaps if you’ve built it, you’ll be more prone to use it?

The bench is constructed of standard two-by-fours cut into three varying lengths. All you need is a saw to cut the wood, a drill to screw the boards together, exterior wood glue and the wood. Smaller lumber yards will even cut the lengths for you; some of the big-box locations have help-yourself saws to use.

Alternatively, circular saws and jigsaws are fairly inexpensive these days and handy tools for any DIY-er to own.

Pick and Cut Your Wood

Cedar is a great choice for any outdoor project, as it naturally resists rot. To make the project cost-effective, I used standard, stock two-by-fours and stained them with an exterior-grade stain and sealer. Wood glue for exterior projects and 2½-inch construction screws round out the supply list.

Start by cutting your wood. You need five 42-inch lengths; eight 18-inch lengths and 10 pieces cut to 14 ½-inch lengths.

Construction

PHOTOS: ERIC JOHNSON

1 Construction steps are straightforward. In essence, you are forming an inverted U shape with the top 42-inch length of wood and two of the 14 ½-inch side pieces 2 (Diagram 1). You then stack two 18inch side pieces on the sides of the U shape, first applying a generous amount of wood glue, and screw them in (Diagram 2). The 18-inch pieces are 3 spacers and supports between the inverted U pieces.

Repeat these two steps (Diagram 3) three times.

The final step is the same as the

first step, creating an inverted U with the remaining 42-inch length of wood and two 14 ½-inch side pieces. You then have your completed bench.

Sturdy and Simple.

Apply a generous amount of wood glue between the pieces that form the legs, wiping off any excess that squeezes out with a damp rag. Stagger the drilling of the screws, alternating positions with each layer of wood. Also, a square tool can be Square tool is helpful. helpful when lining up the boards.

I stained my bench with an exterior-grade stain and sealer, but you could leave it unstained if you prefer.

A note about screwing into wood: A pilot hole drilled with a bit slightly thinner than your screw will prevent the wood from splitting when Screw placement you screw into it. When screwing two pieces of wood together, the screw is meant to bore primarily into the bottom or second piece of wood. The screw simply passes through the top piece and the screw head holds the two pieces together.

That said, it’s helpful when drilling your pilot hole to go back and bore Wood pattern out the hole of the top piece a little wider, rotating it to create a passage closer to the width of the screw.

Minneapolis-based Eric Johnson is a garden designer and writer. His website is gardendrama.wordpress.com.

Northern Gardener l July/August 2021

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Garden Harmony Story and photos by Soni Forsman

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Minnesota State Horticultural Society

Left: A waterfall anchors one corner of the yard.

Below, right: Paths weave through the garden.

With water, lighting and plants, this landscape hits all the right notes.

I

visited Steve and Pauline Danielson’s garden several years ago on a tour of water garden sites, one of 50-plus chatty adults let out of a motor coach to scatter throughout the large yard. It was a much quieter experience when I went back last summer but the garden was just as I remembered—stunning.

Oodles of colorful perennials face the street, some spilling over the curb.

A massive front garden of sun-loving plants stretches the entire length of the property, except for the driveway where Steve and Pauline greeted me. This garden offers an abundance of privacy, and the front is just a teaser to what lies beyond.

As I walked into the yard in early evening, sun filtered through the foliage of the mature trees, dancing on the lawn and gardens. The shadier areas looked like little rainforests. Densely planted gardens wove around the perimeter of the property and embraced the home. Large containers, several sitting areas, a grotto, water gardens, statuary, brightly colored ornamental banana plants and items that have personal meaning to the couple are points of interest among the drifts of green foliage. All of these elements work together to create a cohesive landscape.

15 years of teaching and with Pauline’s encouragement, he became a full-time landscaper.

“It was a big decision,” Steve says. “I loved teaching but I have never looked back.” Pauline, also a music teacher, directed high school and college choirs for 27 years and currently directs the contemporary choir at their church.

Steve describes his design style as natural looking. “I like to see plants close together, dense, like in a natural setting,” he says. “I don’t like space between plants. They should hold each other up.” A planting may look unintentional—like it just happened—but it is all intentional. Removing offshoots and seedlings that spread out of bounds maintains the close-together look.

Steve developed the plan for the landscape by looking out all of the home’s windows, visualizing the space. The most distant gardens were planted first, then the ones close to the house. When

Visualizing the Garden

Steve and Pauline bought their Maplewood home in 1996. A passionate gardener, Steve sought a home in need of landscaping, an empty palette. Twenty-plus years later, Pauline says, “All of this is Steve’s,” as she gestures toward the lush gardens. “I’m very supportive of his passion,” she says. “I love to watch his creativity.”

Steve grew up on a farm in Wisconsin and worked as a landscaper during summers while he was in high school and college.

After college, he taught vocal music to elementary students while still landscaping in the summers. After Northern Gardener l July/August 2021

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Garden Harmony

creating a space, he works with the “atmosphere or mood” of an area.

The garden areas are layered, top to bottom and back to front. At the top are the mature trees that came with the property—an old oak, maples, ash and arborvitae. The middle has understory trees and shrubs including eight magnolia trees, hydrangeas and specimen evergreens. The lower space is filled with perennials including hostas of various sizes and colors, bold ligularias, astilbes, coralbells and fern-leaf bleeding hearts.

Tucked into the sunny spots are lilies, phlox, coneflowers and daylilies. Tall plants define the outer boundary of the landscape and are the backdrop for the shorter plantings in front.

Nine varieties of Japanese maples are planted throughout the yard.

Some are stand-alone small trees while others are used as accents next to garden features, such as the grotto.

Annuals are only used in the many decorative containers. Some are paired with similar sized annuals in small containers, while others are used with large tropical plants in the largest pots. Using annuals this way reduces costs, Pauline says. Steve places some large containers deep in the gardens for depth, to draw the eyes in. “It’s not just what is in front but further back,” says Steve. These colorfully planted containers punctuate the foliage-focused design, a surprise element.

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Left: One of the garden’s water features includes a wooden bridge.

Lower, left: Steve places bright plants such as this peach-colored daylily and ‘Star Gazer’ lily in the garden’s sunny spots.

Inset: Steve and Pauline Danielson Below, left: Behind the shed, Steve tends an herb garden.

Below, right: ‘Seaside Serenade’ hydrangea

A water garden with a waterfall dominates one corner of the backyard.

The pond is home to waterlilies, lotus and other aquatic plants. A garden shed anchors the other corner. It does more than store garden tools and supplies, however. It is a piece of garden art. With shutters and a welcoming wreath on the door, it looks straight off the pages of a storybook. Tucked behind it is a formal Velvet Viking™ maple vegetable and herb garden.

As the sun begins to sink in the west, the landscape lighting automatically clicks on. It softly illuminates the entire landscape from above and below.

Lights shine on special features and pathways, creating a magical nightscape.

Inspiration and Experimentation

Steve considers his home garden his work portfolio. He tries plants that are new to him or new to the market in his own landscape before suggesting them for a client’s garden.

Among his nine Japanese maple trees are two that are considered cold-toler-

ant. Velvet Viking™ (Acer palmatum var. dissectum ‘Monfrick’) is a red cut-leaf, weeping, dwarf variety, originally discovered growing in the Twin Cities. It sits atop the grotto. The other is Ice Dragon® (Acer x pseudosieboldianum ‘IsLID’), a cross of Japanese and Korean maples.

It is a small upright tree with cascading branches of finely cut, green leaves.

Steve spends about 20 hours a week in his garden.

He and Pauline work together, deadheading perennials and weeding.

Even when an area of the garden is being redesigned, Steve wants it to appear complete.

He says with a laugh that a garden is never done but “it should look like it is.” Inspiration for two major garden features came from their travels: the grotto from Hawaii and a stucco wall near the water garden from Italy.

Steve’s advice to gardeners is to “Garden for yourself. If you want something in the garden, put it there.” Clearly, Steve follows his own advice. A church window from his childhood church is perched near the top of the waterfall.

An upholstery table used by Pauline’s father is repurposed as a potting bench.

The Danielsons enjoy sharing their gardens, hosting tours, garden clubs, backyard concerts and a wedding. During the pandemic summer of 2020, they escaped to their yard.

This landscaper and musician has designed and planted a composition that has rhythm, harmony, repetition, textures, tempo and color. It hits all the right notes.

OVERWINTERING BANANAS The ornamental banana plants in the Danielson landscape are stunners, thanks to Steve’s method for overwintering them.

Before the first killing frost, Steve cuts plants back to 4 to 6 inches of the trunk. The top is discarded. He digs up the root ball and lets it dry in the sun for 24 hours before planting it in a 5-gallon container with potting mix. The container is stored in a cool (65 degrees F), dark location. The roots may be trimmed, if needed, to fit into the container. Steve waters the root ball every few weeks. In February or March, the dormant plant is moved to a sunny window and watered every week to encourage growth. He increases watering when new leaves start to grow from the center of the old trunk. It’s ready to move outdoors when all danger of frost is past. —S.F.

Eagan-based Soni Forsman is a regular contributor to Northern Gardener.

Northern Gardener l July/August 2021

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While its function is utilitarian, this gate to a vegetable garden makes an artistic statement.

Curate

Your Garden Story and photos by Diane McGann

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PICKING THE RIGHT ART AND PLACING IT WELL CREATES A GARDEN GALLERY. ORNAMENTATION SERVES A NECESSARY and important role in gardening. It personalizes outdoor spaces and affects how we feel when we’re in them. A leafy arbor might welcome us to the garden, while a comfortable bench invites us to sit and contemplate. Birdbaths offer the thrill of winged wildlife, globes reflect our favorite colors and flower-laden hanging baskets draw our eyes upward to the decorative planters holding them.

Practical as well as pretty, ornaments tell us where to look, how to listen, and where to stroll through the garden, and they offer four-season appeal, a boon for northern gardeners.

Arboretums are a showcase of the synergy of art and plantings, and the University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum in Chaska is no exception. Wendy DePaolis, curator of art sculpture and gallery manager for the arboretum, notes that one of that organization’s goals is to connect people to art in nature.

The arboretum has hosted several exhibits over the years, including metal origami and Craig Mitchell Smith’s large colored-glass sculptures, and its large sculpture garden is unique among botanical gardens. Accredited by the American Alliance of Museums in 2017, the highest recognition given to national museums, the arb continues to celebrate the integration of art and nature.

On a smaller scale and with a smaller budget, home gardeners can practice the art of garden ornamentation. As visions of statuary and garden gnomes fill our heads, we face two questions: what objects to choose and where to place them. “Less is more” and “keep it simple” are the mantras that landscape architects preach. Julie Weisenhorn, a U of M Extension horticulture educator, agrees. “Don’t add too much,” she says. “Or-

nament in a garden is really like a focal point in design, and too many focal points can get confusing. And remember that while flowers and foliage may fade, garden art remains all year.”

Pick a Style

Whatever the style of your home, garden ornaments should carry that theme into the landscape and ground the building in its setting. Do you prefer picket fences and roses, modern contemporary lines and minimalism, or exotic décor and unique finds? All are good, and art is personal to each of us.

Even whimsy and kitschy can be perfect choices, if those reflect your passions. Weisenhorn created a vignette in her yard of three colorful garden gnomes that she received as gifts, all watched over by cement mushrooms. This little grouping brightens up a corner of her garden and always evokes a smile when it is discovered.

Consider Your Choices

Items primarily chosen for practical use, such as bird houses, lights and benches, play a dual role when they are also selected for their ornamental value. Tall plant stands or squat containers might add color or whimsy to the garden. Fences made of wooden pickets, stained glass or antique wrought iron fulfill the purpose and add beauty. Gates and arbors herald the garden entry and may be works of art in and of themselves. Fountains provide that much-desired sound of water and are also focal points, be they tall and tiered, or short and bubbling. Sundials not only tell time, but they are simple in form, bring to mind their history and look at home in all garden styles.

Garden art takes many forms, such as this mosaic in a planting bed or the metal eagle rising above a sea of dahlias.

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Curate Your Garden Purely ornamental pieces can also add pizzazz to the garden. Small metal sculptures, whirligigs, colored glass balls and the like can be found in garden catalogs, local nurseries, craft fairs, antique stores and even garage sales. Some homeowners repurpose objects they love to act as containers or works of art in the landscape. One person attached a support frame to old stained-glass windows, which now stand tall among the blooms.

Another repurposed a 10-foot mirror to stand in a corner of his garden, blocking views of a utility pole and reflecting his shrubs and flowers. Art in the garden is also a chance to exhibit a hobby, be it mosaics, stained glass or woodworking.

Let your imagination run wild and surprise visitors with objects not ordinarily seen in a garden. One homeowner arranged an old ship’s wheel as a backrest for a bench. Intertwined with vines, it’s an integral part of the setting. Another imaginative gardener sunk flowering containers into the seats of chairs that had lost their cushions. You might even spot dollhouses perched above foliage, and old wagons and carts acting as plant containers.

Careful Placement

Remember the keep-it-simple mantra, follow a theme and analyze the landscape to find the perfect setting for your ornaments. Globes and elevated glass balls might offer contrast to or an echo of the colors surrounding them. Picture a glowing glass orb or metal hummingbird floating above a sea of flowers, or a gnome brightening a dark corner that would otherwise go unnoticed.

A statue or large fountain deserves a setting of its own.

Abstract sculptures and large tiered fountains make good focal points because they can be appreciated from all angles. Consider the view from every direction, including that from indoors.

Position large ornaments in an open space, or use hefty plants to frame them. Weisenhorn suggests strategically placing grander objects so that people are encouraged to walk through the garden, seeking a closer view. “Put them where people can see them,” she advises.

Size and Scale

Ornaments look best when they reflect the scale of the landscape. Even though a few larger pieces have more impact than several small ones, people often choose objects that are too small for their setting. A large statue may look out of place in a small yard, yet demand pride of place when it has a more expansive setting. The goal is to have a few substantial pieces that become focal points in the yard and draw the eye to them.

Tuck smaller ornaments into the greenery, possibly nestled in a sea of flowers, creating a delightful surprise for visitors. To save on back strain and to help position an item carefully the first time, place a cardboard box or cutout here and there to see how a new piece might fit in different locations in the yard before making a big purchase or hauling a heavy object around.

Finally, consider how an art object will look in all seasons.

The fountain might bring thoughts of spring when seen silhouetted against the snow, but will those pops of color that punctuated the garden in summer seem a little out of place in winter? Storing some pieces inside in the non-leafy season might be the answer.

JULIE WEISENHORN

Containers in a bold color add cohesiveness to a scene. The metal sculpture at right frames a view at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum.

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FINDING INSPIRATION Public gardens offer an abundance of inspiration for your garden ornaments. Some to explore at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum: Harrison Sculpture Garden is a hilltop display of 26 pieces of contemporary art, inspired by the wonders of nature. Placed on 3 acres of rolling hills along a walkway leading to a grove of Kentucky coffeetrees, this garden helped the arb achieve museum status.

Patrick Dougherty Stick Sculpture combines Dougherty’s carpentry skills with his love of nature.

Enhance Gardens with Color

Colorful containers act as accents in the yard, perhaps displaying a desired but hard-to-find flower color, such as royal blue.

Just as the style of the ornament should be in keeping with the architecture of the house, prominent ornament colors should reflect or complement those of the home. Colorful glass or metal objects can be placed to add punch where it’s needed.

Keep in mind, though, that the garden is the masterpiece, and ornaments are simply accents.

Recommendations about garden art are helpful, but it’s your yard and your style. Deck out your yard in the plants that you love and the ornaments that you fancy. Choose a style, select your pieces, place them strategically and enjoy.

Stillwater-based Diane McGann is Northern Gardener’s By Design columnist.

Above: A sculpture viewed through a break in a wall adds mystery, Below: A discreetly placed gazing ball (left) and art glass reflect light.

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»»»

U of M horticulturist Mary Meyer plants seeds with her grandchildren Maddie and James.

A

s the summer progresses and our flowers and plants grow and bloom, we gardeners are watching the miraculous transformation unfold up close.

But when was the last time you talked to someone—particularly someone young—and shared your joy in that moment, the joy of gardening?

If we all did a little more of that, the green industry might not be in the predicament that it’s in right now, says Mary Meyer, University of Minnesota horticulture professor emeritus and MSHS board member.

According to Purdue University, only 61 percent of horticulture’s expected 57,900 annual job openings available in the United States are likely to be filled.

“We all need to show our kids the wonder of horticulture,” Meyer says. “You know, it’s given us so much satisfaction that we can’t let our kids grow up without knowing how much fun it is.”

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Horticulture needs people— here’s how gardeners can help.

Story and photos by Gail Brown Hudson

Gail Brown Hudson has a master’s degree in horticulture from the University of Minnesota. She is an Emmy® award-winning journalist, writer and video producer, as well as an avid gardener in Minneapolis.

It’s the same love for green things that today is driving graduate student Seth Wannemuehler to work with University of Minnesota researchers to explore a market for kiwiberries—a Minnesota-hardy fruit on a vine that tastes of the tropics. “I think it’s exciting,” Wannemuehler says. “I’m in hort because it’s a passion.”

Unfortunately, Wannemuehler is the exception. “The whole transition in demographics from rural to urban makes it more difficult for kids to have experience with someone who grows plants for a living,” Meyer says. Many children don’t even know what horticulture is.

“I remember participating in a [focus group],” she says. “These middle-school kids just said, ‘what are you talking about?’ and they were just like deer in the headlights—silent. And I was like, ‘oh, no!’ ” Here’s a test: Ask your neighbor if they can name 10 plants that grow near them. Meyer says only a miniscule number of people in America can do so. Many people have “plant blindness,” defined as the inability to see and notice plants in one’s own environment, or recognize their importance.

Seth Wannemuehler studies kiwiberries (inset) as part of his research.

Fewer Future Horticulturists

This overwhelming lack of interest in horticulture has dealt a blow to college and university enrollment. A 2019 study by the American Society for Horticultural Science (ASHS) revealed the number of post-secondary institutions offering horticulture-related degrees or certificates dropped by more than 50 percent between 1997 and 2017.

Isabella Tecken, who recently graduated with a plant science degree at the University of Minnesota, sheepishly admits she didn’t fully understand the difference between botany, horticulture and agronomy when she signed up for her program at the age of 24. “I’ve always loved plants and was a plant person,” she says. “But I didn’t know that you could do it for a living, for a real career.”

Cayla Smith says she set aside plans to become a biologist after she took a class on the “Ten Plants that Changed Minnesota” with Mary Meyer. “I didn’t really realize the careers that were possible until I think Mary introduced me to a lot of them,” Smith says.

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A class with Mary Meyer set Cayla Smith on her path to be a horticulturist.

ing of a large advisory council and millions of dollars in funding from Longwood Gardens in Pennsylvania, Ball Horticulture, institutions and others, Yoder began to take aim at middle schoolers.

“We specifically focused on those kids because they’re starting to think about what they want to do when they grow up,” she says.

“We’ve now just hit over 5 million kids who we’ve reached with ‘Bloom!’ materials.” Educational publisher Scholastic created the Bloom! campaign for SYF with sample lesson plans and activities.

On its website, seedyourfuture. org, SYF continually adds new videos to expose kids to plants through activities they can do at home, too, like how to grow new plants with food scraps.

New Terminology

»

“Out of the mouths of babes,” the saying goes, and Yoder and her advisory council listened. Student focus groups revealed they preferred titles such as “plantologist” and “plant specialist” rather than “horticulturist.” The University of Minnesota heard the message, too, and switched the title of its horticulture degree program to “plant science,” although the Department of Horticulture remains.

A Growing Movement

Declining enrollment, a severe labor shortage and the lack of knowledge about the available careers in the art, technology, business, education and science of plants—with or without a college degree—set off alarms for ASHS members in 2013. “Industry, public gardens and academia were all thinking our field is dying,” Meyer says. “Our work is going to die, and we need to get these young people interested.”

They wondered who would produce the food we eat, who would care for, grow and develop plants for our landscapes, take care of public gardens and green spaces, or recognize the importance of plants to the health of humans and animals and the very survival of our planet?

In 2016, as president of the ASHS, Meyer co-founded Seed Your Future (SYF), a national nonprofit that has grown into a movement with more than 200 partners including horticulture companies, colleges, universities and gardening organizations.

Susan Yoder took the helm as executive director and with the back-

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Isabella Tecken switched from nursing to plant science when she realized there were career options working with plants.

Meyer encourages home gardeners to share their passion for plants with their families and friends and anyone else who will listen. Ben Ziegler, who just graduated from the University of Minnesota with a plant science degree after a career in the Air Force, remembers how his father exposed him and his sister to a love of gardening.

“Now that I think about green beans and peas—my dad put them in just to tempt me into the garden,” Ziegler says. “He never ate anything himself.” Now, Ziegler involves his own children in planning the vegetable garden, asking them “what do you want to eat from the garden this year?”

Success Stories Plant science graduate Ben Ziegler was introduced to gardening by his father and now grows food with his children.

You’ll find new terminology on the SYF website, which describes horticulture as the “green collar industry” and talks about the “power of plants.”

This year SYF has expanded its resources for students exploring careers in horticulture, helping them find not only where to study but what. It lists more than 140 professions, along with scholarship opportunities, internships and horticulture camps.

“All too often [students] think that it’s a landscaping job, somebody with a truck or they’re mowing,” Meyer says. “We really want to talk about the science of doing this.”

The “Green Lining” of COVID

There are success stories to tell.

Ziegler and Wannemuehler say they hope to teach and educate others about horticulture. Smith says she’d love to work in a public garden. And Tecken dreams of owning a permaculture farm with her husband.

“Speak to the kids,” she says.

“That’s the kind of thing I would have loved to know about when I was little.”

Now our job is to show others the way.

DOING OUR PART:

The pandemic threw a bright spotlight on gardening and sparked plant sales that garden centers hadn’t seen in decades. Yoder calls it the “green lining” of COVID. It was also an opportunity for SYF’s social media campaign, which took off when the organization posted popular messages like “#NatureNeverCloses” and “#ILoveMyPlantJob.” “It really resonated with people,” Yoder says.

But attention spans are short. “If we don’t capitalize on this moment,” she says, “time will pass and interest in gardening and plants may wane again.”

Inspiring a New Generation

The greatest legacy garden lovers have to pass along to young people is to inspire them to have a passion for plants. Garden clubs have struggled for years to attract new and younger members. Yoder recommends these groups include kids in whatever it is that they’re doing, get involved with youth gardening initiatives and partner with schools to help create a new generation of horticulturists.

Since its beginning in 2008, the MSHS Garden-in-a-Box program has introduced over 50,000 Minnesotans, many of them children, to gardening. We hope some of them become horticulture’s future leaders.

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Poppies

They can be fickle, but these delicate flowers are worth the wait.

By Samantha Johnson

Throughout history, poppies have figured prominently in film (The Wizard of Oz), poetry (In Flanders Fields), and art (paintings by Van Gogh and Monet). They also have the distinction of being the Flower of Remembrance—a symbol that is worn in honor of veterans and those who lost their lives in military service.

Poppies are also a glorious, summer flower that brightens our gardens with graceful petals and vibrant colors.

Wispy, willowy and whimsical, what’s more beautiful than a delicate poppy in full bloom?

Meet the Poppy

You can summarize poppies (Papaver spp.) with two adjectives: delicate and fleeting. And perhaps it’s these characteristics that enhance their charm.

Unlike a marigold that faithfully keeps blooming all summer long, a poppy

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is something of an elusive prize that arrives in a showy burst of beauty and then fades as quickly as it came.

Poppies possess an air of mystery.

They might bloom, or they might not bloom. They might come up for a couple of years and then disappear for a few seasons. Then, just about the time you give up on them and forget about them entirely, they surprise you and pop up again. Some sources indicate that poppy seeds can lay dormant for decades and still germinate.

Their delicate petals, reminiscent of crepe paper, showcase a rainbow of colors, although red poppies are undoubtedly the most iconic. In addition to red, poppies are found in shades of purple, orange, white, yellow and pink, and in varying types as well, including those with frilly double blooms that resemble peonies.

RHONDA FLEMING HAYES

IN PRAISE OF

Opposite page: California poppies, a North American native, are not members of the Papaver genus, but have the same delicate appearance.

Below: Poppy seed heads add architectural interest.

Right, top: ‘Lauren’s Dark Grape’; lower: Red poppies

allow the seeds to be exposed to cycles of temperatures below and above freezing to kick-start germination, a process called stratification. You can also stratify poppy seeds in the refrigerator if you aren’t able to plant the seeds while the temperatures are still fluctuating in fall or early spring.

Now let’s assume that you had a nice period of cold temps and after that interminable period of waiting for them to sprout, your poppy seeds are germinating beautifully. The weeks pass and you continue to tend your plants carefully as they grow, and then bud, and then—oh glorious day—they bloom. This is, of course, the pinnacle moment, but it is a fleeting one. Poppies fade quickly, which makes them unpopular as a cut flower.

Growing Poppies

ISTOCKPHOTO

RHONDA FLEMING HAYES

RHONDA FLEMING HAYES

Poppies are native to Eurasia, Africa and western North America; some are perennial but most are self-seeding annuals in our climate. They’re an adaptable genus, and on paper, it looks like poppies should be easy to grow.

The basics are simple: poppies like a location in full sun, with well-drained soil that isn’t too heavy. They like to be moderately watered on a regular basis.

Planting time is where things get tricky.

While you can transplant poppy plants, it’s difficult and they don’t appreciate being moved once they’re growing. Perennial poppies don’t respond well to dividing, either. Direct sowing is generally recommended. Keep in mind that poppy seeds should be allowed to sit lightly on the surface of the soil, so avoid covering them heavily with soil.

But here’s the real key to success with poppy seeds, and the benefit of growing them in the North: they need a period of cold temperatures to bloom. To achieve this, you should sow poppy seeds in the fall or early spring. By doing this, you

But there’s another, even better reason not to use them as cut flowers.

Poppies will spread if you let them— they’ll happily go to seed and the seeds will land in new locations and settle in, expanding the population of poppies in your garden in a very convenient way.

Note: Sometimes the seeds will lay dormant for some time (even years!) before the conditions allow for their growth.

Keep an eye out for future surprises. If you like a natural appearance to your garden design, allowing poppies to selfseed is a great way to achieve this.

When they are growing, poppies have few problems. Aphids may be a concern and they can be removed by hosing them off. In damp situations, powdery mildew may occur on some poppies.

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In Praise of Poppies

ERIC JOHNSON

Papaver rhoeas (translation: red poppy) is one of the most common types, and it’s known by a variety of names including the corn poppy, the field poppy, the Shirley poppy, the common poppy or sometimes the Flanders poppy because of its connection to Belgium after World War I and the publication of In Flanders Fields. The ‘Legion of Honor’ heirloom variety exhibits the classic look that you’d expect from its name. ‘Pandora’ is another brilliant red option. It grows about 2 feet tall and deer avoid it.

Papaver somniferum is known as the breadseed poppy or the opium poppy.

It is the only poppy that produces edible seeds. ‘Chima Family’ is a gorgeous heirloom variety with a surprisingly “un-poppylike” appearance; ‘Hungarian Blue’ is more traditional in appearance and boasts stunning purple to blue petals.

PHOTO COURTESY OF BALL HORTICULTURAL

So Many Varieties

Papaver orientale is known as the Oriental poppy and this type is well known for its vibrant colors and dark centers.

It is extremely hardy in the North.

‘Allegro’ is a variety with the classic look—orange crepelike petals with a dark center—but in a smaller overall size. ‘Patty’s Plum’ has violet petals and a deep purple center.

ANN MACMULLEN

Papaver paeoniflorum, or peony poppy, is exquisite with its layers of ruffled petals. ‘Lauren’s Dark Grape’ is a purple variety that grows to 3 to 5 feet tall, with large blooms. It is incredibly eye-catching.

Clockwise from top left: ‘Champagne Bubbles White’; ‘Allegro’; ‘Hungarian Blue’

Papaver nudicaule, or the Icelandic poppy, produces abundant, long-lasting flowers in pale orange to apricot tones.

They perform better than most poppies as cut flowers. The Champagne Bubbles series may be found as transplants in garden centers.

Important note: While poppy seeds from Papaver somniferum are popular for culinary use in baked goods or salad dressings, all other parts of the poppy plant are toxic to humans and animals.

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica) is native to the western United States, where it grows as a wildflower.

An annual, its bright orange flowers and blue-gray foliage stand out in beds, borders and rock gardens.

Over the years, I haven’t always had the most successful gardening relationship with poppies. Their beauty is unlike anything else in the garden, so I’ve persevered in trying to grow them, but they haven’t always cooperated. My mistake?

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Not Another Wildflower

Thinking they were “just another wildflower” and could be treated as such. A better understanding of the nuances of poppy cultivation has definitely helped me achieve success with these beautiful garden gems. I hope the same is true in your garden!

Samantha Johnson is the author of several books, including Garden DIY, (CompanionHouse Books, 2020). Visit her online portfolio at samanthajohnson. contently.com.

Tart and succulent, enjoy gooseberries raw or in jam.

Gooseberries and currants grow even in shade.

Story and photos by Jennifer Rensenbrink

If you want to grow fruit, having a sunny spot is almost a requirement.

Almost. My Minneapolis yard is shady, but I’ve found some edible plants that thrive in part-shade conditions, including members of the Ribes genus—gooseberries and currants. With a variety of flavors and colors available, there is a lot to love about these oncebanned fruits.

A little history: in the mid-20th century, the United States banned most Ribes species because they were a host plant for white pine blister rust, a destructive fungal infection of eastern white pine. Some northern states still ban at least some types of Ribes—usually the black currant varieties. Happily, most modern varieties of gooseberries and currants have been bred to resist the rust, and many rust-resistant pine trees have also been introduced. If you want to grow gooseberries and currants, check with your local university extension office first.

The Ribes genus is unique in that its species are best suited for cold climates like ours. They’re not recommended for areas above USDA Zone 8.

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From Banned to Bountiful Top: Just-picked fruit Center: ‘Ben Sarek’ Lower: ‘Red Lake’

Varieties to Try

I grow three types of Ribes shrubs for fruit. The ‘Hinnomaki Red’ gooseberry grows well in part-shade, but you will get significantly more fruit if they’re situated in full sun. The gooseberries can be picked when they’re still green and tart, or you can wait until they ripen and turn red, but you’ll have to compete with squirrels and dogs for them at that point. My gooseberry shrubs are so prolific that I’m debating whether I really need three of them.

For currants, ‘Ben Sarek’ black currant is new to my yard and I like it more each year. Planted next to the foundation on the east side of the house, it gets morning sun and then shade for the rest of the day. Because of this, it has stayed quite small but still produces a decent amount of fruit each year. Of my gooseberries and currants, ‘Ben Sarek’ has the showiest flowers.

Saving my favorite for last: I adore ‘Red Lake’ currants, a 1933 University of Minnesota variety. They’re tart but not so tart that they can’t be eaten off the bush. The shrubs have a nice shape and, like the ‘Ben Sarek’, are thriving and fruitful in part shade. While the flowers are small, the berries are gorgeous, translucent and shiny like tiny ruby grapes hanging in bunches.

There are several other hybrids of the red currant that I’d love to try someday, including ‘Pink Champagne’ and ‘White Imperial’.

Growing Requirements

Ribes shrubs are not huge—most stay under 5 feet tall and wide—and the amount of sun they get can affect their final size. One of my gooseberries struggles to reach 4 feet tall when it’s not weighed down with fruit.

The shrubs flower in early spring, usually late April to early May. The small flowers are greatly appreciated by emerging queen bees. Fruit is ready to

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Gooseberry plants stay small and thrive in part-shade.

harvest in July. You will have bushier plants and more fruit with more sun.

My gooseberries do tend to spread around the yard by seed; I’m guessing the local squirrels help this happen. My currants spread and ramble a bit via new shoots, but it’s nothing that can’t be easily controlled with some pruning.

Watch Out for Sawflies

A word of warning: currants and gooseberries can be plagued by sawflies.

If you start to notice defoliation on your plant in May through early June, look for the telltale worms on the undersides of leaves. While they are unlikely to kill your plants, they can defoliate them and hurt fruit production.

I had a sawfly infestation on my currants and gooseberries for several years, but I got it under control using a handful of methods. I handpicked the worms and dropped them into a container of soapy water.

I also pruned my bushes to a vase shape, to provide airflow in the middle and around the edges. Finally, I placed a birdhouse and birdbath near my shrubs—sawfly larvae are a delicacy for birds. Thanks to the birds, the sawflies are nearly gone.

Harvest Time

In July, currants can either be picked individually, or you can snip off bunches and remove stems later. Red currants can just be washed and used. The larger black currants and gooseberries need to have their stem and blossom ends trimmed off with a sharp knife or pinched off with your fingernail. Trimming can take some time with a large picking.

Another important consideration with gooseberries is to wear thick gloves and long sleeves when harvesting, because the plants are thorny.

I like eating ripe gooseberries and red currants raw, but the black currants are more challenging to my palate. However, they shine when subjected to some heat. They have become my new secret dessert ingredient, adding a warm spicy depth to pies, jams and jellies of brighter fruits such as sour cherry and raspberry.

Most of my gooseberries and currants get turned into jams.

Since they are naturally high in pectin, getting to jam consistency

is easy and they can just be combined with sugar for a basic recipe. Minnesota cookbook author Amy Thielen has a wonderful and simple red currant compote recipe on her website (amythielen. com) that I make every year.

In addition to being high in pectin, gooseberries and currants are acidic and can safely be canned in a boiling water bath. The acidity makes these jams perfect when combined with something creamy like vanilla ice cream or buttery like a warm biscuit or scone straight out of the oven.

Follow Jennifer Rensenbrink’s urban gardening adventures on Instagram @ jenniferrensenbrink or at stackingfunctionsgarden.com.

Gooseberry and Elderflower Jam 2¼ pounds gooseberries 4 cups granulated sugar ⅓ cup elderflower syrup Use gooseberries that have reached full size but are still green and tart. Elderflower syrup can be purchased at specialty food stores or online.

Put fruit and ⅔ cup water in a large, deep saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Bring to a boil and cook for approximately 9 minutes, then start testing for set. I do this with a spoon and plate kept in the freezer. Place a drop of jam on the plate. If it looks set and not runny after a minute or two on the cold plate, it’s done.

Let the jam cool for four minutes, then stir in the elderflower syrup.

Fill six sterilized half-pint jars with the jam, leaving a ¼-inch headspace.

Process the jars in a boiling-water bath for 10 minutes, or let cool and then freeze.

Recipe from Diana Henry’s Salt Sugar Smoke: How to Preserve Fruit, Vegetables, Meat and Fish (Mitchell Beazley, 2015).

—J.R. Northern Gardener l July/August 2021

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The Magic of Leaf Mold Build your soil with this gift from your trees.

Story and photos by Lee Reich

Showering down each year on landscapes everywhere is the raw material for a most useful soil amendment: Leaves. Rotted down, leaves become leaf mold (or “leaf mould,” as British gardeners write it), an organic amendment with far-reaching benefits.

While not particularly rich in nutrients itself, leaf mold helps unlock plants’ access to nutrients already in the soil. Physically, leaf mold alters a soil to make it more spongy and better able to hold both moisture and air, creating a heavenly environment for plant roots. Laid on the surface of the ground, leaf mold prevents wide swings in soil temperature, keeps the soil surface loose so water penetrates easily, and then slows evaporation of the moisture once it’s there. Leaf mold stimulates biological activity in the soil to create a microbial environment that helps thwart pests.

I’m such a fan of leaf mold as a soil amendment that I not only collect my own leaves but gather up my neighbors’ leaves as well—or, rather, I pick up the plastic bags into which my neighbors have gathered up their leaves for me. Truckloads of bagged leaves plus leaves from a local landscaper supply all my needs.

Making Leaf Mold

Nothing could be easier than making leaves into leaf mold. Besides leaves, the main ingredient is time. To make leaf mold, I create a ring 6 feet in diameter with wire fencing and pile in the leaves, packing them down as I add go. About two years later, the pile has shrunk and what is left is brown, crumbly leaf mold.

The leaves that went into making this material are no longer recognizable.

If two years seems too long to wait for this brown gold, you can speed up the process. Shredding leaves gives

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microorganisms more surface area to “chew” on. I don’t do that because using an energy-guzzling machine to shred leaves seems to me contradictory to the environmental soundness of recycling leaves.

Rotting of leaves can also be hastened along by optimizing the food and drink for the microorganisms responsible for the process. I like to build my leaf mold piles in the shade where evaporation is reduced and the piles stay moister. You could, of course, water the pile as you add material to ensure that it is damp throughout. If you want to wait until the pile is built before watering it, be aware that prodi-

gious amounts of water will be needed to wet the spongy mass.

Carbon and nitrogen are the two foods that microorganisms need in greatest quantities. Autumn leaves are high in carbon so nitrogen becomes the limiting element. Sprinkling some material high in nitrogen on the pile as it is built is another way to speed the transmutation of leaves into leaf mold. High-nitrogen materials that I’ve occasionally used include grass clippings, which often are conveniently mixed with leaves in late autumn mowings (the leaves incidentally shredded during mowing) and soybean meal.

The beauty of making leaf mold is

A large pile is key to making leaf mold for your garden.

Is Leaf Mold Compost?

They are very similar, though not exactly the same.

Leaf mold results from a slower decomposition process and it uses only one material (leaves) while compost is a faster, hotter process with a wider range of materials. Neither contains enough nutrients to be legally considered fertilzer. Both do wonders as soil conditioners, however.

—L.R.

Mulch with leaf mold to improve soil structure.

that it really is unnecessary to do anything special to create this wonderful material beyond making a pile large enough so that you’re left with something substantial at the end.

As a graduate student, I once rented a house and was happy to discover, tucked into the edge of some woods along the back of the yard, a gold mine: A large, old pile of leaf mold representing years and years of accumulated leaves that had been raked from the property and piled there by a previous owner. That leaf mold was created without any sort of enclosure, without any shredding, and without any supplemental watering or feeding.

Garden Gold

Leaf mold is not something any gardener can have too much of and its uses are myriad. An added benefit is that leaf mold is essentially weed-free. Occasional tree seedlings do appear but they are easily pulled and never attain the weed status of plants such as quack grass or creeping Charlie. Those more obnoxious weeds can, over time, insinuate themselves into a leaf mold pile from the edges or from seeds dropped by birds, but this problem can be averted by being careful with what you do with material you skim off a pile’s edges or top.

This highlights another advantage of

large piles: edges make up a smaller percentage of the total mass.

Leaf mold is useful in flowerpots and seed trays. Sieved through halfinch hardware cloth, it becomes an organic amendment for potting soils, helping to increase the mix’s aeration and water retention. Substitute it for peat moss in potting mixes. Make a potting soil by mixing leaf mold with equal parts soil and perlite or, for a soilless mix, with equal parts of only perlite. Some soybean meal (2 cups per 5 gallons of total mix) and sprinklings of kelp, rock phosphate and greensand, while not absolutely necessary, ensure a wide spectrum of nutrients in this potting soil that can be home to tomato and other transplants as well as large potted plants.

Out in the garden, dig abundant quantities of leaf mold into the top 6 to 12 inches of soil where you need to loosen up sticky clay soil. Don’t dig the soil, though, unless it is slightly moist. Wet soil will clod up like modeling clay; dry soil will remain in rock-hard clumps.

Laid on top of the ground, leaf mold is a decorative and functional mulch—I use it as mulch beneath my trees and shrubs. Because it has the brown color of soil, leaf mold is an attractive, natural foil for flowering plants, especially in formal flowerbeds. No need to dig the material in at the end of the season; just pile more on top.

Now if only I could find some use for all those plastic bags I’ve saved from collecting my neighbors’ leaves.

Lee Reich is an avid gardener, gardening consultant and writer who has worked in plant and soil research with the U.S. Department of Agriculture and Cornell University. He is the author of several books on gardening. Learn more at leereich.com.

Northern Gardener l July/August 2021

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NORTHERN VIEW

“Computer: Mow the Lawn” i’m no technophobe. I have a wi-fi weather station in my kitchen and can use at least half the functions on my cellphone. Still, a recent article about the latest tools for gardeners left me clutching my trowel apprehensively.

The hot new garden gadgets include robots that mow your lawn and weed your garden as well as artificial intelligence-enabled cameras to spy on your bird feeder.

Robots? Be careful.

My husband handles all the household chores that involve machines, such as laundry and vacuuming. Our old vacuum was heavy, so one Christmas, I gave him a Roomba™—the robot vacuum.

If that seems unromantic, don’t worry, tools are our love language and he was thrilled.

At first, Roomba was a housekeeping joy. We set it up to clean the main floor twice a week, and at the designated time, it would fire up with some beeps and head out, picking up dust, dog hair and crumbs with great efficiency.

Unfortunately, it tended to get stuck— under the bed, behind chairs, beneath the coffee table—and it would whir and whine until someone released it.

Its sudden appearance and beeping irritated the dog, who at first confronted Roomba directly but soon cowered in another room when it was loose. Eventually, we turned off the timer and only allowed Roomba to roam under supervision. But once, as we unpacked after a

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two-week trip, my husband announced, “Roomba is missing.” The docking station where Roomba was supposed to stay lay vacant. Apparently, Roomba had decided to clean up before we got home. After 30 minutes of searching, we found the poor robot, stuck under the coffee table, powerless in more ways than one.

You can see why garden robots raise concerns. Proponents say that robot mowers can be programmed to run daily, if you like a neat trim, and timers allow homeowners to set them to do their thing overnight. Buried wires define your property lines and an app on your phone alerts you if the robot escapes— which to me is an argument against setting the mower to work overnight.

According to the manufacturer of one mower, the sensors on them are so refined, you could “lay your baby in front of them and nothing would happen.” I won’t be testing that theory.

Like computers, robots do a few things efficiently. But they have gaps in their knowledge and decision-making is not their best skill. While they may recognize a baby in the lawn, will they avoid tulip foliage that needs to fade or the new snips you accidentally left in the grass? Will a robot mower really stay in your yard, or will a gap in the wires or a blip in its powerpack give it the urge to address the overgrown turf at your neighbor’s house? Will it get stuck in the peony foliage or work its way between the fence and the garage, whirring until you free it?

I’m even more worried about the robot weeder. It looks suspiciously like a vacuum I know. The manufacturer notes it has been tested by Cornell University and the demonstration video shows the weeding robot expertly maneuvering around tomato plants in a surprisingly weed-free vegetable bed. Impressive. Still I’m skeptical of a machine that supposedly can tell the difference between plants you like and those you don’t, between creeping Charlie and alyssum, for example. And, honestly, how many of us have gardens as neat or well laid-out as the test plots at Cornell? Not me.

Turning over garden tasks to the robots may be a time-saver but it misses the point of gardening for many home gardeners. I enjoy weeding. It’s a break from sitting at a computer all day. It’s contemplative and encourages me to observe closely the plants in my garden and the soil they grow in. The warm soil feels good on my hands, and the blissful satisfaction of pulling out a weed’s long taproot can never be sensed by a robot, no matter how finely tuned it is.

I’m hiding the article about the robot mower. My husband likes Roomba, and he mows the grass.

Mary Lahr Schier is the editor of Northern Gardener.

Discount Partners

SAVE WITH OUR 2021 DISCOUNT PARTNERS!

Society and Affiliated members of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society receive a membership card and access to a long list of discounts with our trusted partners across the Upper Midwest. Find each partner’s unique discount offer, address and website online: northerngardener.org/discount-partners.

101 Market - Otsego Abrahamson Nurseries – Scandia, Stillwater MN & St. Croix Falls WI Anoka-Ramsey Farm & Garden – Ramsey Arden Hills Nursery – Shoreview Axdahl’s Garden Farm & Greenhouse – Stillwater Bachman’s – Apple Valley, Eden Prairie, Fridley, Maplewood, Minneapolis & Plymouth Beier’s Greenhouse – Grand Rapids Beisswenger’s – New Brighton Blue Sky Flower Farm – offer online only Blue View Greenhouse, Rice Lake WI – NEW Cedar Brook Garden Center – New Prague Como Park Zoo & Conservatory – St. Paul Costa Farm & Greenhouse – White Bear Lake Countryside Lawn & Landscape – Zumbrota Dan & Jerry’s Greenhouse – Monticello Duluth Flower Farm, Duluth – NEW Dundee Nursery & Landscaping – Plymouth Ecological Design – Minneapolis EggPlant Urban Farm Supply – St. Paul Fair’s Nursery – Maple Grove Farmington Greenhouse – Farmington Fiddles & Fronds – Minneapolis Flower Power Garden Center & Fred Holasek & Son Greenhouse – Lester Prairie Forest and Floral Garden Center – Park Rapids Garden Divas – River Falls WI

Gordy’s Gift & Garden Center, Hermantown – NEW Green Lake Nursery – Spicer Green Space, LLC. True nature Design – Minneapolis Green Valley Greenhouse – Ramsey Hartman Garden Center & Landscaping – Victoria Hedberg Supply – Stillwater & Plymouth Heidi’s GrowHaus – Corcoran Home Sown Gardens – Eagan Hugo Feed Mill & Hardware – Hugo Jean’s The Right Plant Place – Perham Kelley & Kelley Nursery – Long Lake Kelly’s Cottage Garden – Park Rapids Kern Landscape Resources – St. Paul Knecht’s Nurseries & Landscaping – Northfield Landscape Alternatives – Shafer Lilydale Garden Center – Lilydale Living Sculpture Trees – Sunfish Lake Lynde Greenhouse & Nursery – Maple Grove Mickman Brothers – Ham Lake Minnesota Landscape Arboretum – Chaska Mother Earth Gardens – two Minneapolis locations Nagel Sod & Nursery – Medford Nature’s Garden World – Fergus Falls Nelson Nursery and Garden Center – Zimmerman

*Locations are in MN unless otherwise noted.

Otten Bros Garden Center & Landscaping – Long Lake Pahl’s Market – Apple Valley Paisley Gardens – Northfield Patio Town – Brooklyn Park, Burnsville & Oakdale Pleasant View Gardens – Long Lake Sargent’s Nursery – Red Wing Schulte’s Greenhouse and Nursery – St. Michael Seed Savers Exchange – Decorah IA Seven Sisters Greenhouse – Prescott WI South Cedar Garden Center – Farmington Squire House Gardens – Afton Terra Garden Center – Lakeville Terrace Horticultural Books – St. Paul The Garden By The Woods – Chanhassen Wagner Garden Centers – Minneapolis & Hugo Walker Art Center – Minneapolis Winter Greenhouse – Winter WI

The Minnesota State Horticultural Society is a 501c3 nonprofit. We are thankful for our Discount Partners and members. Your support powers our mission to deliver valuable programs, education and resources to northern gardeners of all skill levels and backgrounds.

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