Pleasant & Piquant

By John Selick

Irecently watched a new documentary about Charlie Trotter, the iconic Chicago chef who revolutionized fine dining in America in the 1990s. Chef Trotter was on top of the restaurant world when I attended culinary school and I admired him from afar. I was fortunate to have been able to save enough money to make the trip and experience the 12-course tasting menu when his restaurant was at its peak. More than 20 years later, it remains one of my most memorable food experiences.

When the documentary was over, I reflected on my experience of dining there, as well as the anticipation and preparation that took place before the dinner. I thought about the experiences I’ve had since that trip and how I’ve sought unique dining experiences ever since. I have been looking, not for just interesting places to eat, but interesting things to cook. Food culture has changed in my lifetime from being heavily French and very Eurocentric to more globally inspired foods that are fresher and sometimes spicier. Hot sauce has become one of the top condiments in America; even grade-school children want food with a kick to it.

Not all globally inspired food is spicy, but it packs a flavor punch. Curry is a generic word that means different things to different cultures around the world. You may hear the word “curry” and think spicy, and although that is sometimes true, it’s more often a blend of flavorful and aromatic spices or vegetables that elevates the flavor of a dish. If you want to try something new, explore different kinds of curry. You are probably familiar with the generic marigold-colored powder which enhances the visual aspect of a recipe rather than enhancing the flavor. This type of curry needs help to boost its flavor; a dash of chili powder, cumin or powdered ginger kicks up the spice without adding heat.

We all need to eat more vegetables, and when cooking with curry at home, it is a great way to make vegetables more flavorful and the star of the meal. I like to be generous using curry, but feel free to have a lighter hand.

If you want the exotic flavors of curry but the comfort of something familiar, try making meatballs. Meatballs are trendy now and are an ideal street food.

Kofta, Albondigas, Frikadeller, and Bò Viên are exotic-sounding dishes, but they are just meatballs from different regions of the world. Koftas are shaped differently than traditional meatballs and are often served on a stick, but if making them round sounds easier, they’ll still be delicious. All are a great way to work curry into your cooking repertoire.

My culinary trek to Chicago nearly 25 years ago to dine at the premiere restaurant in the world may have been the turning point in my life to seek out new dining and flavor experiences. After that, I was ready to order the spicy curry with unpronounceable ingredients and then look forward to my next adventure. You can, too.