Suston Issue #1 2018

Suston SUSTAINABLE OUTDOOR NEWS #1/ 2018

5 ECO PIONEERS Scandinavia’s minimal impact adventurers.

BRANDS TAKING

ACTION The new nature conservancy activists.

THE WAY OF

WOOL

#1

PLASTICS IN THE OCEANS

THE OPEN STORE

PARTNER PRESENTATIONS

New problems, new solutions.

Staff and customer hang out.

Brands share about good things they do.

#1/ 2018 € 5,90

The challenges of responsible wool sourcing.

dachcom

PROTECT PEOPLE, ENVIRONMENT AND RESOURCES. Do you know how your textile product is made?

The bluesignÂŽ system based on Input Stream Management helps a responsible industry, establishing more sustainable and safe products respecting functionality, quality and design. managing inputs. responsible actions.

bluesign technologies ag Moevenstrasse 18, 9015 St.Gallen, Switzerland Phone +41 71 272 29 90 info@bluesign.com, www.bluesign.com

Ready for the future?

Digitize at ISPO Munich.

Learn more: Hall A4/ 202

Accelerating innovation.

Accelerating sports.

January 28–31, 2018

ispo.com

For more than 40 years we have grown and perfected our concept, creating the number one network for sports brands to connect with their customers, showcase new products and expand their global business. To further accelerate the global evolution of sports ISPO is introducing an industry-changing new concept that is dedicated to experiencing, learning about and exploring the future of the sports industry. With Digitize by ISPO Academy we enable the sports business for the digital challenges by making the digital transformation tangible.

PHOTO: STÉPHANE ROBIN

EDITORIAL & CONTENTS

A joint adventure!

36 12 News

Outdoor industry taking action.

20 Plastics

M

y first assignment as a journalist was as a volunteer editor for Friends of the Earth’s magazine in Sweden, over twenty years ago. The editorial tasks also included demonstrating against the destruction of rainforest and loud protests against politicians. Many of us were angry and genuinely concerned about the environment.

Twenty years later, I can see that we were right about a lot of issues: climate change is a threat against humanity, the rainforests are needed for our long-term survival, et cetera.

But at the same time, back in the 90s, enthusiastic individuals, organizations and companies tried to build bridges between environmental activists on the one side and business on the other. And these pioneers were also right, in retrospect.

Today, I believe that activists are needed to pressure, engage and inform. But I also believe that the environmental challenge is far too large to be solved without cooperation. When NGOs, companies, industry organizations and politicians can agree on common goals, progress will come easier and faster. Building bridges and finding common solutions – this is a part of Suston Magazine’s vision. And last but not least: Doing things together is much more fun.

Gabriel Arthur, Editor-in-chief

What are microplastics and microfibers?

Five ways to clean up the oceans.

26 Retailer

Is this Germany's greenest outdoor store?

48 22

32 Nature Conservancy

The fight to save the Bears Ears.

36 Eco Outdoor

Nordic adventurers taking responsibility.

48 Wool Sourcing

When Ovis 21 got hit by the media storm.

Suston partner brands share about wool sourcing.

64 Program

All the green happenings at the ISPO Munich fair.

Suston Editor-in-chief: Gabriel Arthur, gabriel.arthur@norragency.com Editor: Jonathan Frænkel-Eidse Art director: Susan Larsen & Melanie Haas Partner cooperation and sales: Karen Hensel, karen.hensel@norragency.com Editorial advisory board: Pamela Ravasio, Cira Riedel, Joel Svedlund

Cover illustration: Nadia Nörbom Suston is published by NORR Agency. norragency.com, info@norragency.com +46 8 462 0707 Metargatan 11 116 66 Stockholm, Sweden sustonmagazine.com

suston – 5

OBSERVATION

Giant Panda finally gets a break

BY JONATHAN FRÆNKEL-EIDSE PHOTO AMI VITALE

After nearly 27 nail-biting years on the endangered species list, the Giant Panda has been down-listed by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) to the category “vulnerable”. The panda’s rising fortunes have been attributed to a broad network of reserves, successful anti-poaching efforts, and increased scientific understanding of these reclusive natives to the mountain forests of southwestern China.

Habitat destruction has been their greatest threat, whereby a burgeoning Chinese population and industry has increasingly encroached on habitats containing their favorite, and essentially their only, food source: bamboo. Despite widespread efforts to protect this habitat, recovery has been a challenge. This has largely been pegged to the panda’s unique reproductive cycle, whereby females are only fertile a mere 2–3 days per year, making for painstakingly slow population growth rates.

But efforts finally appear to be paying off, as a 2016 survey estimated there are roughly 2,000 wild pandas – a 17 % increase over the last decade. Although this is cause for celebration, some experts warn that conservationists must remain vigilant and not break out the champagne quite yet, as habitat fracturing and climate change are likely to keep the panda’s fate uncertain for some time to come.

OBSERVATION

Dirty denim getting cleaner?

BY JENNY CLEVESON PHOTO RIVERBLUETHEMOVIE.ECO

Canadian river activist Mark Angelo has paddled waterways all over the world for decades. In River Blue, a new featurelength documentary, he returns to rivers on several continents and finds pollution on an alarming scale. The textile industry, and denim factories in particular, are seen to be major culprits of hazardous chemicals.

One of the locations the film team visits is the Chinese town of Xintang, dubbed the denim capital of the world, where toxic textile dyes color the nearby Pearl River indigo blue and pollution has wiped out most fish life.

There is, however, hope for a cleaner future. River Blue also looks into sustainable denim production processes.

Mark Angelo and directors David McIlvride and Roger Williams hope that their film will inspire more manufacturers around the world to take greater environmental responsibility and encourage viewers to demand sustainable jeans.

“The textile industry is very consumer driven, so as consumers we are in a position to do something about this and there are positive solutions,” contends Mark Angelo.

A recent example of this came in November 2017, when Anubha Industry became the first Bluesign System Partner among denim manufacturers in India, following in the footsteps of denim partners in China, Turkey and Vietnam.

“Anubha has shown its commitment towards sustainable denim production and we are proud they have chosen us as their partner for chemical management,” says Jill Dumain, Chief Executive Officer at Bluesign technologies.

River Blue has screened at several film festivals, and its global theatrical release was on November 19th, 2018.

OBSERVATION

Zero trash tolerance

BY JONATHAN FRÆNKEL-EIDSE PHOTO NISSE SCHMIDT

The Swedish cross-country ski race Vasaloppet holds many accolades, including it being among the oldest (celebrating its centenary in 2022) and longest (90 km) in the world.

With nearly 70,000 participants, it is also the world’s largest. This popularity, however, has led to an increasing headache for its organizers – trash.

Vasaloppet crosses over 900 private properties and the track itself is protected as a nature reserve where littering is strictly forbidden. Over 15 tons of paper cups are used at the water stations along the track, and to save time the competitors have previously simply thrown the cups on the ground.

Now the time for politely asking competitors to stop littering is over: Skiers beware the Vasaloppet’s newest hazard, the time penalty. During the 2017 competitions, contestants were penalized with 15 min to their final time if caught littering outside of the “throw zones” along the track.

“With the throw zones, proper disposal of the litter is not a challenge, it’s just a matter of getting used to it,” explains Mats Ryland, Environment Manager at Vasaloppet.

The results went well beyond expectations, with an estimated 90% reduction in litter and only four competitors penalized. In addition, all paper cups are then recycled.

“Feedback from competitors has been positive,” says Mats Ryland.

Now with just 10% standing between Vasaloppet and its zero-litter goal, they intend to double-down during winter 2018 by enlisting a small army of volunteers equipped with cameras to catch the last remaining litterers in the act.

NEWS

EUROPEAN SPRING CLEANING

Award-winning eco-tourism LAST YEAR WAS DESIGNATED as the International Year of Sustainable Tourism for Development by the United Nations. One of the successful ecotourism businesses that attracted attention over the year was Misool Eco Resort in Raja Ampat, Indonesia. Misool won the “Environment Award” in the international Tourism for Tomorrow Awards 2017, arranged by The World Travel & Tourism Council (WTTC). The goal of Misool is to preserve important marine environments for future generations, and the business reflects the growing conservation ambitions found around the world. Misool’s protected reef has been described as one of the few marine environments where the number of species and organisms are increasing instead of decreasing. This is particularly appreciated by all the diving enthusiasts who come to visit. misool.info

“Every year we dump 4.8 to 12.7 million tonnes of plastic in our oceans.”

From the Ministerial declaration of the United Nations Environment Assembly in Nigeria, December 2017.

Read more on page 22 – 23.

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From February to May 2018, Europe´s biggest clean-up event will take place throughout the continent.

The campaign “Let´s clean up Europe,” which has been organized by the European Commission since 2009, aims to inspire activists and organizations across Europe to come together and collect garbage. letscleanup europe.eu

BLEND RECYCLING BREAKTHROUGH IN NOVEMBER 2017, the Swedish cross-disciplinary research program Mistra Future Fashion announced a major breakthrough in recycling polyester/cotton fiber blends. The process, the result of six years of research, is called Blend Re:wind and generates three circular outgoing product streams. Cotton is turned into new high-quality viscose filaments and polyester into two pure new monomers. The outputs can then be re-spun into new threads. mistrafuturefashion.com

DOWN-FILL INNOVATIONS

The down manufacturer Downlite has announced three new down-fill products for 2018.

These innovations, known as Re/charged down, Repreve-down blend, Wool-Down Halo, feature traceable wool and GRS certified recycled down and polyester, and are said to provide unprecedented performance for 100% recycled materials. downlite.com

Grant to students A GROUP OF STUDENTS from Germany have enjoyed their first major outdoor experience thanks in part to a grant from the It’s Great Out There Coalition. In September, 13 eighth grade students and their teachers from Großhansdorf trekked for 10 days in the Alps, hiking the E5 route from Oberstorf in Germany to Meran/ Bozen in Italy. The participants carried their own kit and slept in mountain huts. The project was organized in partnership with Primaloft and supported by The North Face. This was the first initiative to be awarded an #itsgreatoutthere grant. The coalition expects to confirm more grants in the near future as it continues the campaign to inspire the public across Europe to get active outdoors. itsgreatoutthere.com

NEWS

CARBON-NEUTRAL MEMBRANE

OZONE HOLE SHRINKING FOR THE FIRST TIME, scientists have shown that levels of ozone-destroying chlorine are declining. Resulting from an international ban on chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), this decline has led to about 20 percent less ozone depletion during the Antarctic winter than there was in 2005, the first year that NASA began taking measurements.

“We see very clearly that chlorine from CFCs is going down in the ozone hole, and that less ozone depletion is occurring because of it,” says Susan Strahan, Senior Research Scientist at NASA’s Goddard Space Flight Center in Greenbelt, USA. The Antarctic ozone hole was discovered in 1985.

Two years later, nations of the world signed the Montreal Protocol on Substances that Deplete the Ozone Layer. Later amendments to the protocol phased out production of CFCs globally. These international agreements are often seen as positive examples of how nations together can successfully tackle global environmental problems. nasa.gov

BOLD PLEDGE BY RÖJK IN WHAT MIGHT BE SEEN as the natural end-game of the outdoor industry’s march towards sustainability, the 7-year-old Swedish brand Röjk Superwear has made the ambitious pledge to make their entire line 100% biodegradable and natural by 2020. Zippers, buttons, fabric, dyes – everything. Perhaps bolder still is their pledge to discontinue all products that cannot be made 100% biodegradable. rojksuperwear.com

Sympatex has introduced a PFC and PTFE free, 100% recycled and recyclable membrane that generates 50 times less C02 than a comparable PTFE membrane. It is now also carbonneutral, thanks to an offsetting program in the Kasigau Wildlife Corridor in Kenya. sympatex.com

AWARD FOR RECYCLED PET

In conjunction with America Recycles Day, Unifi Inc. introduced the Repreve Champions of Sustainability Award on November 15th. The award acknowledges companies that produce sustainable products using Repreve performance fibers made from recycled PET bottles. 2017’s winners will be announced at the 2018 Outdoor Retailer Winter Market in Denver, USA. repreve.com

TRANSPARENCY

A GROWING KEY

I

CONCERN

n 2017, Blackrock’s Larry Fink – CEO to one of the largest investment companies in the world – sent ripples across the financial world when in his annual letter, he addressed the CEOs of their shareholdings as follows: “Environmental, social and governance (ESG) factors relevant to a company’s business can provide essential insights into management effectiveness and thus a company’s long-term prospects. We look to see that a company is attuned to the key factors that contribute to long-term growth: sustainability of the business model and its operations, attention to external and environmental factors that could impact the company, and recognition of the company’s role as a member of the communities in which it operates.”

As the financial world begins shifting into this new paradigm, it needs new toolsets for evaluating investments and measuring companies around the world operate in terms of these “ESG factors.”

The more colloquial term for ESG, “Transparency,” is arguably as accurate in describing these same factors. Yet it is also a term that gets thrown around far too often. Indeed, so often that we can quickly forget what it is actually referring to.

Transparency is first and foremost about insight, clarity and honesty. Insight into what is happening within a business, clarity regarding its challenges and its strengths, and honesty towards stakeholders at large, to whom these insights matter most.

Such stakeholders are not only limited to shareholders and executive management, but also staff, supply chain workers, government, civil society and many more.

How is the outdoor industry performing in comparison to other industries? Judge for yourself.

At ISPO Munich, you will have the opportunity to meet pioneering companies who have taken a leap in good faith by choosing to be transparent and invite the public “into their home.” Go and pay them a visit– you are one of the stakeholders as well.

Pamela Ravasio, Head of CSR & Sustainability European Outdoor Group suston – 13

PARTNER: VAUDE SPONSORED CONTENT

Ecofair, Multiuse, Unique The Green Shape Core Collection of VAUDE consists of 90 % biobased, recycled or natural materials. The outdoor brand uses even unconventional substances such as unmarketable cow’s milk, wood and castor oil.

“T

he Green Shape Core Collection is a testimony to our ‘green’ soul – it embodies our ecological and social values, and testifies to the essence of what motivates VAUDE as a brand. With it we would like to prove that taking a stand for sustainability – whole-heartedly and in a spirit of innovation – truly pays,” says VAUDE CEO Antje von Dewitz.

The collection has been created after the principles #ecofair, #multiuse and #unique, and consists of 19 sustainable multiuse products designed for a wide range of outdoor activities. It is available in August 2018 at specialist shops as a “limited edition” from selected dealers. #ecofair VAUDE set out in search of environmentally friendly functional materials.

Together with its suppliers, the outdoor manufacturer has developed new materials and technological solutions that had previously not been possible.

Every material was closely examined from an ecological and social viewpoint.

“Ecofair” means that VAUDE is conserving valuable raw resources by using recycled materials and replacing fossil

14 – suston

based raw materials with biobased alternatives; for example, from kapok, castor-oil or cow’s milk. For the first time, they are using biodegradable fiber for fleece products and are exploiting the natural functional properties of materials to minimize the use of chemicals. #multiuse The “multiuse” byword is based on the idea of value-based consumerism. In order to avoid wasting resources, the focus is on using a smaller number of multiuse products rather than owning a wide selection of specialized versions.

The products are designed to be suitable for anything from an easy ski tour or winter hike to a daily bike commute. #unique “The collection is a visionary expression of how we imagine the future of sustainable innovative outdoor gear. With it, we would like to make an impact, provide inspiration for thinking outside the box and create a call to action – while applying consistent, resource-conserving processing methods under fair working conditions. This is truly unique,” explains Antje von Dewitz.

INNOVATIVE MATERIALS Biopile/TENCEL® fleece Fleece material that biodegrades in seawater and does not leave behind microplastics.

EcoPaXX® Biobased plastic or synthetic fiber, 70 % of which is produced from castor oil.

PrimaLoft® Silver Insulation Natural Blend Hybrid insulation from kapok tree fiber.

Q-Milk Felt 20 % cow's milk (which is no longer suitable for food production) and 80 % wool are processed into felt.

VAUDE at ISPO: Hall A1 406 greenshapecore.vaude.com

NEWS

UPDATED HIGG MODULE

In a move that its makers claim will reduce audit fatigue and improve performance benchmarking, the Sustainable Apparel Coalition has launched an updated version of its transparency tool known as the Higg Facility Environmental Module (Higg FEM).

The self-assessment module is currently used by 8,000 businesses globally.

Punta de Lobos protected THE WORLD-FAMOUS SURF SPOT Punta de Lobos,

Chile, has been added to a growing list of protected surfing reserves. In partnership with World Surfing Reserves and local communities, Save the Waves is the non-profit organization leading the effort to establish surf reserves across the globe.

The problem it aims to address is the uncertain fate faced by countless surf locations as a result of pollution and excessive development. Many of the world’s most coveted waves have already disappeared forever, now buried beneath condominium and resort developments.

That’s why surfers, scientists and activists have teamed up to address this issue, using education, and research to protect coastal zones and ensure that no more “nugs” go the way of once-epic

5 828

KILOS OF CO2. That was the total amount from Suston’s Karen Hensel’s airplane journey to Ushuaia, located at the southernmost tip of Argentinian Patagonia. All flights undertaken with Suston Magazine are CO2 compensated using our partner My Climate. Read Karen’s story about wool sourcing in Patagonia on page 50!

waves like Killer Dana and La Barre.

Punta de Lobos is known as one of the most iconic left-hand pointbreaks in the world and is Chilean surf culture’s center of gravity. In recent years, however, developers had been threatening to erect private condos and hotels along the coast.

Following a concerted effort by Save the Waves, Patagonia and nearly a thousand other donors over $ 750,000 was raised, enabling the 4.5-acre property to be purchased and donated to the local nonprofit Fundación Punta de Lobos.

Punta de Lobos joins as the ninth member of Save the Waves’ World Surfing Reserves and a tenth reserve at Noosa, Australia, was also announced at Punta de Lobos’ dedication ceremony.

savethewaves.org

LEARN THE FUNDAMENTALS

The Sustainable Fashion Academy in Stockholm is arranging what they call the world’s first online course in sustainable apparel. The course Sustainability Fundamentals will be held at three different times, with start dates on 29 January (Term 1), 3 April (Term 2) and 17 September (Term 3). sustainable fashion academy.org

FAIR INSULATION

MORE THAN 400,000 mountain sheep live in the harsh mountainous landscape of the Swiss Alps.

Each year, they provide approximately 1000 metric tons of fair-trade wool, collected directly from the Swisswool suppliers. The climate control properties and elasticity of Swisswool makes it very suitable for insulation and can for instance be seen in the new technical Ortovox Zebru Jacket, presented at ISPO Munich 2018. swisswool.ch, ortovox.com suston – 15

PARTNER: AKU SPONSORED CONTENT

Fully transparent As the first shoe ever, AKU Bellamont Plus has recently been awarded the Environmental Product Declaration (EPD) – an achievement that comes from a rigorous calculation involving all partners along the entire supply chain.

I

n an industry first, Italian footwear specialist AKU has submitted its bestselling Bellamont Plus to the strict and wide-ranging measurements of the EPD® System. This international certificate takes into consideration every step of the production process to compile a fully transparent picture of the environmental impact of this travel and urban outdoor shoe. This means that every step, from how the raw materials are produced (upstream) to the product assembly and distribution process itself (core) and finally the impact at the end of the product’s life (downstream), finds its way into the report.

To collect this enormous amount of data over a 12-month period, not only AKU but all of its partners along the whole supply chain – like the renowned DANI tannery – also had to be involved.

“We want to give retailers and consum-

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ers a documented reassurance that we as a brand have a transparent and responsible approach to product design and production processes,” explains Giulio Piccin, AKU Product and Sustainability Manager, on why the brand undertook this incredible effort.

“Obviously, we will also use the collected data to examine which steps of our production can still be enhanced to reduce the environmental impact and react according to the outcomes of the report.”

As the first brand from the outdoor sector, AKU hopes to set a good example for other brands to follow, examine and improve the environmental sustainability of their production.

AKU at ISPO: Hall A2 300 AKU.it

WHAT IS THE EPD SYSTEM? An EPD® (Environmental Product Declaration) is an independently verified and registered document that communicates transparent and comparable information about the life-cycle environmental impact of products. As a voluntary declaration, having an EPD® for a product does not imply that the declared product is environmentally superior to alternatives. All declarations registered in the International EPD® System are publicly available and free to download on the website. environdec.com

AKU Bellamont Plus: the first fully transparent outdoor shoe.

NEWS

Pros and cons of

recycled wool Prato is the European center for recycled wool. Anna Rodewald tells about its sustainability aspects.

R

BY GABRIEL ARTHUR

ecycled wool has emerged as a new material favorite. Yet in the Prato province of Northeastern Italy, home to one of the largest textile clusters in Europe, knowledge about how to turn used wool fabrics into new is centuries old. In fact, the history of recycled wool in Prato dates back to the 12th century, and such recycling has been performed on an industrial scale since the 19th century.

Anna Rodewald, textile engineer from Greenroom Voice, traveled to Prato together with Pamela Ravasio, CSR and Sustainability Manager at the European Outdoor Group, to visit eleven companies in five days. One of the goals was to investigate whether the ecological impact of recycled wool is less than that of new wool. Determining this turned out to be a somewhat complex task.

“This is a niche in the textile industry that is not often talked about,” explains Anna Rodewald, and continues: “To answer your question if recycled wool is more sustainable, of course it depends on what you compare it with. Historically, the ecological impact of recycled wool was not seen as important, and it was bought mainly because of its low price. For other materials, such as polyester, the recycled material was created based on the need for an improved footprint. In this case, large resources have been invested in research on how to ensure that the footprint is in fact improved. As this was not the intention for recycled wool in the first place, this could be one reason why there is still insufficient data for a lifecycle analysis.”

Sorted by color

However, Anna Rodewald could see clear benefits in the use of recycled wool: “For example, the old textiles are sorted by color, such that a new colored yarn can be produced without an additional dyeing process. Only small amounts of freshly dyed fibers are added to attain a particular color. This process saves chemicals and dyes. In addition, some colors that have been dyed in the past with dyes that are no longer allowed are separated. These materials undergo extra intensive ecological testing.”

Creating jobs in Prato

The wool recycling process is labor intensive and requires specialized knowledge. This translates into jobs for the local population; jobs that are carried out in compliance with European health and safety regulations.

“In any case, it is important for a successful sourcing of recycled wool to have a direct connection to the producer and to build a good relationship of trust in this part of the supply chain. This enables better traceability and thus the purchase of a safe product. This can be an advantage in the Prato region, where it is easy for European brands to visit the manufacturers that produce recycled wool. Of course, traceability with respect to the animal welfare of the original material is very limited.”

“All in all, recycled wool is a good alternative, but a brand should have a close relationship to the manufacturer, including technical discussions about individual needs.”

ANNA RODEWALD Anna Rodewald at Greenroom Voice holds a Chemical Engineer Diploma and a M.A. in Responsible Management.

40% RECYCLED WOOL

The mid layer Haglöfs Whooly Hood is made with a blend of 40% recycled wool from the Prato province, together with 42% polyester and 18% polyamide.

Glove making is a craft that requires great skills.

A sustainable craft

“Think global, act local.” For Swedish glove manufacturer LillSport, this means building an environmentally adapted tannery and starting a solar-powered glove factory with their partners in Ethiopia.

I

t sounds easy in theory when company CEO and founder Lasse Granqvist talks about the venture: “The best glove leather in the world comes from the Ethiopian Highlands, so it makes sense to tan the skins and sew the gloves on site in Ethiopia.”

In reality, however, it is not that easy. The family business LillSport was founded in Karlstad in 1984. Today, it is one of the world’s leading manufacturers of premium cross country gloves. The production takes place in the company’s

18 – suston

own factory in Poland, employing 200 seamstresses.

“Sewing gloves is a craft that requires great skills. If you can sew gloves, you can sew basically anything,” Lasse Granqvist says.

Up to now, Ethiopia has lacked this craftsmanship, though the country actually meets most requirements for its own glove industry. The Ethiopian Highlands, with peaks up to 4 550 metres, are sometimes referred to as the Roof of Africa. Here, over 20 million of the large

Highland Hairsheep graze. They are one of Ethiopia’s main sources of income.

Milk and meat are important elements, but most important are the soft yet durable skins, which in the leather industry are considered some of the best for glove manufacturing.

According to the government-run Ethiopia Sheep and Goat Productivity Improvement Program (ESGPIP), 14–18 per cent of Ethiopia’s export income comes from hides, leather and skin from sheep and goats. Almost all are sold as

SPONSORED CONTENT PARTNER: LILLSPORT

Ethiopia’s sunny weather means perfect conditions for solar power.

uncultivated raw materials. The tanning, punching and sewing takes place in other countries. Granting Ethiopia a larger part of the value chain is one of ESGPIP’s main objectives, in addition to improving animal husbandry and land use.

These are goals that LillSport share.

“We want to be part of starting up a glove industry in Ethiopia and not just buy their raw materials. This way we contribute to development in a more sustainable way than if we had just donated money to an aid agency,” says Lasse Granqvist.

“Sure, we also have long-term economical goals here. But if we were only interested in making money, there are plenty of easier roads to take.”

Collaboration with local partner LillSport has used Highland Hairsheep skin for decades. Eight years ago, the company came in contact with an Ethiopian entrepreneur who wished to develop his tannery, Bahir Dar Tannery.

LillSport assisted in improving the tannery until it could produce leather

with the same high quality as is found in countries with a major tanning industry.

Controlling and reducing the tannery’s environmental impact was an important aspect in their work.

“Tanneries are usually a dirty industry.

Today, you can drink the waste water coming out of Bahir Dar Tannery.”

In parallel, the idea was born to begin glove manufacturing in connection with the tannery. LillSport received a grant from the Development Finance Institution of Sweden, Swedfund, to build a glove factory in the town of Bahir Dar together with the Ethiopian entrepreneur.

The factory opened in 2011 and has 35 staff seamstresses.

After five years of cultural pitfalls, recurrent power cuts and time-consuming red tape, Lasse Granqvist and his co-workers still considered the project a big success.

LillSport and the local entrepreneur decided to start a new, larger glove factory and close down the old one.

His daughter, Erika Granqvist, was one of those responsible when the new factory was built.

“We decided to go ‘all in’ on sustainability. For instance, the entire power supply will come from rooftop solar panels,” Erika Granqvist says.

“But the way we see it, the most important sustainability aspect is the transfer of knowledge. Now, we take the craftsmanship to the next level. Our best seamstresses from Poland have held courses on site, we have improved the punching and several Ethiopian seamstresses have been trained in Poland.”

The factory is due to open early 2018. Since 2011, Erika Granqvist has visited Ethiopia about fifteen times and she has also lived there for longer stretches of time.

“It is important to remember that we get a lot back from this. It is incredibly rewarding and instructive to build something together with the generous and committed people that we work with in Ethiopia.”

LillSport at ISPO: Hall A2 125 lillsport.com suston – 19

MICROPLASTICS

Facts you should know about

microplastics We are becoming increasingly aware of the problems caused by microplastics. Suston gives you a quick lesson on the subject.

BY GABRIEL ARTHUR & NICOLAS JÄNDEL

What are microplastics and where do they come from?

Microplastics are defined as tiny fragments of plastic measuring from 1 to 5 mm. They can be formed unintentionally when plastic objects begin to wear and shed particles, or when we do not reuse, recycle or dispose of plastic materials correctly. Then the plastic ends up in landfills, gradually breaking down into smaller and smaller pieces in nature.

There is also plastic that is actually manufactured as tiny pellets or grains.

Currently, the primary sources of this are roads and tires, artificial turf, industry, boat bottom paint and general litter.

What are microfibers and microbeads?

When talking about plastic pollution, fragments that are smaller than 1 mm are called microfibers. Microfibers can come from fishnets, plastic items that are subjected to wear and so on, but more and more research shows that the greatest source of microfibers in nature is synthetic clothing—polyester, nylon, rayon and more. Microbeads are used as a functional ingredient in many skin care products, such as body scrubs. Several countries have banned the use of microbeads in recent years.

How do microplastics end up in waterways and oceans?

New research shows that the majority of all plastic in the world’s oceans comes from poor countries, where the rivers are often used as garbage dumps. Plastic is carried out to sea and is gradually ground down to smaller and smaller particles.

But richer countries, too, contribute significant amounts of plastic pollution.

Because microplastics and microfibers are so small, they pass through sewage treatment plants, eventually ending up in the sea.

Are microplastics toxic?

There are different kinds of plastic, and not all are harmful to health. PVC is considered an environmentally harmful plastic (which more and more companies are trying to phase out of their production), while polyethylene is considered a less harmful type. The big problem is really the substances that are added to the plastic to give it certain characteristics such as plastic softeners, which later leach out of the plastic and harm the environment. We already know that additives such as bisphenol A (BPA) can disrupt hormone production, as do certain types of phthalates.

Are fleece garments a particularly large source of microfibers?

It was previously thought that fleece garments made of polyester were the primary source of microfibers, but in fact all garments made of synthetic fibers shed a certain amount of plastic. Unbrushed fleece is better than brushed.

How can I help to reduce emissions of microplastics?

Wash your synthetic garments less often—air them instead. Laundry bags like Guppy Friend are a clever tool for preventing microplastics getting into the rinse water. Keep an eye out for textile innovations—there’s a lot happening in the field. Reduce your use of plastic in your daily life and recycle the plastic you do use.

suston – 21

ENVIRONMENT

Activist from Nordic Ocean Watch cleaning a Norwegain surf beach.

From the floating masses of plastic waste in the Pacific Ocean to the microfibers covering sediment along our shorelines – the awareness is growing that marine pollution must cease. Suston lists five inspiring solutions.

BY JONATHAN FRAENKEL-EIDSE & GABRIEL ARTHUR

A

lready in 2006, the American reporter and author Susan Casey got awarded for her story “Our Oceans Are Turning to Plastic…Are You?”, about the dire impact marine plastic pollution is having on planetary and human health. Over the years, the collective awareness about these environmental problems has been growing step by step. In 2011, ecologist Mark Brown released an alarming study about synthetic microfibers. Then there was that darkly captivating photograph of a seahorse carrying a Q-tip. Soon, plastic waste-filled cadavers of whales began washing up on shore. News followed that plastic had entered the food chain – including us. A plastic garbage patch bigger than Mexico has been found in the South 22 – suston

Pacific and by 2050 there will be more plastic in the ocean by mass than fish.

Perhaps these almost apocalyptic messages were needed to finally penetrate our collective thick skull. Now, it seems like action is underway. These are five inspiring examples on how activists, companies and nations are working together and finding new solutions.

1

Let’s say Tavaha in 2018!

While composed of light-hearted, wave-loving surfers, the Norwegian nonprofit organization Nordic Ocean Watch (NOW) takes their responsibility seriously, organizing educational events, documentary screenings and good old fashion pick-up-litter-by-hand-days.

NOW’s greatest deed, however, may be

their contribution to our vocabulary.

Get ready to learn a new word, one not (yet) found in any dictionary. Tavaha.

Destined to become the Nordic surfer’s response to Aloha! it is also the embodiment of a simple yet compelling philosophy, to Take Care of the Ocean (Ta vare på havet).

NOW explains that this expression “encompasses unity, understanding and solidarity across borders, generations and cultures. The ocean is what connects the world. It has always taken care of us and we cannot live without it. It’s time we return the favor.” nordicoceanwatch.no

2

Solving the problem upstream

The Italian fabric producer Pontetorto and the German outdoor brand Vaude

PHOTO: MADS OFTEDAL SCHWENCKE, NORDIC OCEAN WATCH

Save our seas

2

PHOTO: MADS OFTEDAL SCHWENCKE, NORDIC OCEAN WATCH

1

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were awarded the Eco Performance Award at the Performance Days trade fair held in Munich in November 2017. This was in recognition of their jointly developed sustainable fleece fabric known as Biopile.

It is what they call the world’s first fleece fabric with a brushed back whose fibers are bio-degradable even in marine water, thus protecting seas, lakes and rivers from more synthetic fibers. The inner, brushed side of the fabric does not consist of polyester (as with conventional fleece), but of a cellulosic fiber extracted from raw wood material. The fiber comes from the German company Lenzing.

According to Lenzing, it is the first fiber certified as biodegradable, even in marine environments. Even the smallest of particles from its brushed side during a washing process will decompose without residue in around 90 days. vaude.com

3

The floating rubbish bin

The Seabin Project first appeared on the public radar 2 years ago when a video showing their prototype went viral. This video currently has 85 million views.

Following several years of R&D, Seabin Project and their partner Poralu Marine announced that they will be moving on to the production stage of 500 units and have already received orders from 39 countries.

The Seabin is a floating trash collector that can be placed in marinas and commercial ports, and works by sucking in water with a pump and filtering it through a catch bag. The contents of the catch bag can then be removed and disposed of properly.

The project owes its origins to Australian Andrew Turton and Pete Ceglinski, boatbuilders and sailors by profession, and to their simple question “if we can have a rubbish bin on land, then why not have one in the water?

The founders acknowledge that while their bins are an effective countermeasure to ocean waste, they are by no means the solution. The solution, they argue, lies in education whereby each child taught to dispose of trash properly is one less source of littering.

seabinproject.com

4

Joint industry initiative

Microfiber pollution presents ongoing challenge for the textile and garment industries. By working together, the solutions could come much faster. The European Outdoor Group has therefore initiated a Microfibre Consortium, together with research partners Biov8tion and the University of Leeds, alongside with around twenty major brands such as Berghaus, Finisterre, Fjällräven and Salewa. The Microfibre Consortium aims to develop improved knowledge of microfiber shedding and find viable solutions for the industry to implement.

The one-year research project, to be carried out by the University of Leeds, will begin by validating a pilot test methodology to provide an industry standard on microfibers, a vital step to enable the evaluation of fabric performance, and a precursor towards new materials development and innovation. Katy Stevens, sustainability project manager at the EOG, comments:

“We have been delighted with the proactive and collaborative response of the outdoor and clothing industries to tackle this issue head-on.”

5

Trash talk in Nairobi

If we are to drastically cut marine plastic pollution, politicians around the world need to take action. A recent study, for instance, by the Helmholtz-Centre for Environmental Research in Leipzig, Germany shows that large rivers in population-rich areas in Southeast Asia is the major source. The 10 top-ranked rivers transport 88–95% of the global load into the sea. No litter-picking or floating rubbish bins could hope to stop this alone.

However, it seems like the awareness is also reaching the political leaders of the world. During the last UN Environment Assembly, in Nairobi, Kenya in December 2017, the overaching theme was pollution. Eradicating plastic waste in the ocean was particularly high on the agenda. Over 4,000 ministers, business leaders, UN officials, civil society representatives, activists and celebrities gathered at the summit.

The world’s environment ministers then issued a declaration to “prevent, mitigate and manage pollution of air, land and soil, freshwater and oceans.”

Following the signing, Erik Solheim, UN environment head, announced: “We need to phase out what we don’t need, make what we do need with better materials, and recycle all the plastics that we use.”

We must do this, Solheim continued, in order to avoid “an ocean Armageddon.” suston – 23

TAKING FULL RESPONSIBILITY Jack Wolfskin has been a bluesign® partner since 2011.

By 2020, Jack Wolfskin's entire clothing collection is supposed to be free of flourine chemicals. The childrens collection is already PFC free.

Jack Wolfskin has set up an impregnation service for customers in Germany that is completely free from perfluorinated compounds.

Lining I

Lining II Zip Centre Front

Main Fabric

TRANSPARENT SUPPLY CHAIN Jack Wolfskin has been an official member of Fair Wear Foundation since July 2010. The company published a list of all its production partners and all product components come from approved factories.

24 – suston

Care Label

Zip Hip Pockets

Size Label

Zip Puller

Sesamflag

Ribbon Main Label

Binding

The various stations of our supply chain are spread all over the globe. Nevertheless, we guarantee full transparency down to the smallest detail. Take for example the production of a jacket – 205 different factories work on all its different components.

SPONSORED CONTENT PARTNER: JACK WOLFSKIN

Ecological Styles:

100 % recycled membrane 100 % waterproof With Texapore Ecosphere Jack Wolfskin launched a 100 % recycled outer fabric, membrane and lining. Even the inner jackets are now made as an eco-version from recyled PET.

“W

e love being at home outdoors, we love nature and we love sustainability. Fair production, eco-friendly processes, technical innovations and transparency are the hallmarks of our brand. We are doing pioneering work here and want to serve as a role model for the industry,” says Daniele Grasso, Jack Wolfskin’s Apparel Director.

The brand has been the first outdoor apparel manufacturer to present its innovated Texapore Ecosphere pieces as a part of a complete Eco product series on the market.

One of Texapore Ecosphere’s most important properties is its resistance to moisture. A fabric is considered to be waterproof by the TÜV (German Technical Inspection Association) if it has a hydrostatic head rating of 1,300 mm or higher. The 2-layer jackets are windproof, with a 20,000 mm water column specification and a 15,000 g/m2/24 h breathability rating.

Pre- and post-consumer recycled Jack Wolfskin has employed a zero-waste approach for the membrane manufacturing process, where material remnants are recycled again, and adopted an upcycling concept using post-consumer plastic bottles for the fabrics and trimmings. The outer fabric of the Texapore Ecosphere jackets is 100 % post-consumer recycled and 100 % PFC free.

The Texapore Ecosphere membrane is made entirely of other membrane

offcuts. Membrane scraps from when the apparel is cut comprise the basis for a new membrane. The membrane scraps are cut up into fragments. A granulate is formed from the fragments, which is then reprocessed to become a membrane. The lining in the Texapore Ecosphere models are 100 % post-consumer recycled and certified by the Global Recycling Standard.

PET for inner jackets As material for inner jackets, Jack Wolfskin uses Nanuk, a range of different, good insulating and warming fleece versions, that are compact and dry very quickly. With Nanuk Ecosphere the company now manufactured a material with the same performance, made from recycled PET. Some inner jackets consist of Microguard, a synthetic fiber interlining of spiral fibers with high loft combined with microfibers that store heat, making them robust, durable and moisture-resistant. Even Microguard Ecosphere is now produced as a 100 % recycled PET version. Jack Wolfskin now applies fully recycled materials in Fleece, Shells and Hybrid Styles. In total, the product collection contains 46 different pieces.

Jack Wolfskin at ISPO: Hall A1 406 jackwolfskin.com

FROM OLD TO NEW: TAIGA TRAIL 3IN1 JACKET In the Taiga Trail 3In1 Jacket the functional Texapore Ecosphere material of the outer jacket combines recycled membrane with a recycled outer fabric and recycled lining.

The detachable inner jacket consists of the new Microguard Ecosphere and Nanuk Ecosphere. This thermal, breathable combination is made from recycled PET. The jacket has zips under the arms, a detachable hood stowed in the collar, and reflective detailing.

suston – 25

RETAIL

Redefining

retail

Far from the glossy high-street corners of high-end retailers, Langbrett finds itself in obscure parts of town where customers are encouraged to join the community, to get involved, or to simply hang out.

BY JONATHAN FRÆNKEL-EIDSE

L

eaving the drab winter weather behind and entering the refurbished car mechanic garage in the bohemian district of Düsseldorf, the senses are initially awash in color and impressions – it’s a little more chaotic than the average retail floor, with tools and machines placed amidst the product racks and shelves.

A person, probably staff, hunched over a sewing machine looks up and with a natural smile says, “Hi! Let me know if you need anything,” and resumes work. A passing customer invites to a meditation session in the shop tomorrow morning before opening hours. A group, with indeterminable status, is collected around all sides of the till, lively recounting last week’s surf trip to Holland. Who is who here is difficult to say, the interaction being more akin to mingling than sales. Say farewell to the traditional retailer: at Langbrett, the neighborhood pub and the artisan workshop have merged into one, and it might just be a match made in heaven.

Langbrett’s founders Alexander Nolte and Oliver Spies were originally design and innovation consultants, and avid surfers. Time and again they found themselves drawn back to the idea of starting up an environmentally friendly surf, skate and outdoor label. Yet the fear of diving into the financial unknown held them back. After enough persuasion from their surf buddies, they finally took the plunge and opened the first Langbrett shop in 2008.

Right from the start, sustainability has played a foundational role in their product development, focusing on organic cotton and recycled materials in particular. Their supply chain is simple, and they like to keep it that way.

26 – suston

“We know each employee working at our two manufacturers, one in Spain and the other in Portugal, what they get paid, their working conditions etc.,” explains Alexander Nolte, and continues: “We also don’t put time and money into pursuing certifications, nor do we see any reason in doing so at this point. Having personally seen where every material comes from, we are able to vouch for our products.”

A genuine community

Dealing in such small-scale production with recycled goods can entail some novel challenges, especially for customers who have grown accustomed to a world of mass-produced goods: “One of our best-selling products is a blanket made of recycled cotton. Customers will come in asking for it, and be like ‘hey, I want that other color I saw last time.’ Only each batch is completely different,” shares Alexander Nolte.

“Other times, supplies of popular products just don’t last. As a rule, we avoid overstocking products. This eco thing is the backbone of Langbrett – it’s the reason we exist. We won’t compromise on this at any stage.”

Langbrett prefers to think of its stores as clubhouses, and doesn’t like calling itself a business, but instead a community. The staff encourage community members to pursue whatever gets them fired up. And the very products stocked in their shops are extremely dependent on individual staff members, their charisma and expertise.

“We had an amazing surfboard shaper working here in Düsseldorf, who made selling surfboards good business for us. Then he moved to Vancouver Island, and now surfboard sales are down.

FOUR STORES RETAIL IN GERMANY Langbrett Berlin Kastanienallee 44 Langbrett DĂźsseldorf Ackerstrasse 113 Langbrett Frankfurt Kleiner Hirschgraben 3 Langbrett Hamburg Marktstrasse 140

Alexander Nolte and Oliver Spies, founders Langbrett

In first life part of a wine bottle, in second a shoe sole.

Re-creating, repairing and up-cycling in the Langbrett stores: From old sweater to functional sport bag, from worn winter jacket to unique sleeping bag. suston – 27

RETAIL

Store in Hamburg

Langbrett strive for protecting the environment in which they experience the best times of the year.

A pro skater took his place, so today skateboards have a more prominent presence.”

This variation is not seen as negative, however, but is all part of the experiment in taking a positive, more natural approach to relationships and business.

Neither are the customers boxed into the passive role of consumer: they’re central stakeholders in the brand’s development. The model is organic, or perhaps even more fittingly still, symbiotic.

“Their demands on product functionality and sustainability directs the business. They help test prototypes in the field and provide feedback. They partake in and host workshops in Langbrett’s shop,” shares Alexander Nolte.

“Staff and customer hitch rides with each other to go surfing in Portugal. And while on the way, they sometimes transport recycling goods to our manufacturer there,” adds Oliver Spies.

Customers who like to simply be customers, who like their espresso to taste the same from one side of the planet to the other, might be thrown off-balance by the genuine interaction and variation inherent to Langbrett’s business model.

But perhaps even they will come around. Meeting points like this are still few and far between in the retail world, and such modern hubs are filling a latent need for authenticity and involvement that many customers didn’t realize they had.

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3

SUSTAINABILITY FAQS AT LANGBRETT

1. We are constantly asked about materials, and need to be able to explain what materials are used, how they are processed and what type of impacts they have.

2. Ethical sourcing is also something customers are becoming increasingly aware of.

Here, traceability is crucial, so you must know exactly where the product comes from. You must be able to guarantee that it comes from ethical sources where animals are treated humanely and where workers have good working conditions. We go so far as to invite our customers on field trips to visit our suppliers and see the process first hand.

3. Microplastics is also coming up frequently, so thorough knowledge of this issue and how it can be dealt with is a must.

RETAIL

Stores with a cause Retail consultant Anny Cardinahl explains why passion for sustainability can bring new clients to outdoor stores.

TEXT HÅKAN WIKE & GABRIEL ARTHUR

W

ith the catchline “the death of retail” appearing regularly in the headlines, you needed strong nerves to be a retailer in 2017. In April, Credit Suisse predicted that the US would see the highest number of store closures since the Great Recession, and over 5 000 stores actually closed.

Yet looking back in retrospect, the “Retail Apocalypse” now seems rather exaggerated. For instance, Forbes Magazine concluded that while there were a lot of losing companies, there were also many winners. In a column in October, Forbes Contributor Greg Maloney pointed out that “…stores that can combine convenience and value with great experiences will continue to win, those that don’t – will close.”

This is also true for outdoor retailers, and especially so for those with a passion for sustainability, explains Anny Cardinahl, founder of #ODLX Outdoordeluxe. With 25 years of experience, she explains her reasoning thus: “In the physical stores, customers want experts and knowledgeable staff on site, someone who can help them beyond the basic research they have already done. The customer always has to come away with the feeling that they have chosen the right product. Specialist shops offering knowledge and a genuine identity will be the winners.”

This essentially describes how many outdoor specialists have been operating for years, knowing all the facts about membranes, how to put up a tent etc. When it comes to sustainability, however, the growing number of customers wanting to make the right choices are often left to themselves. They need to navigate through a jungle of unfamiliar eco labels, hang tags with green PR-lingo and staff who are just as lost themselves.

One risk is that the customers lose faith and stop spending money on the better choice.

The opportunity, on the other hand, lies in making the customer aware of what the outdoor industry is doing today. In many cases, retailers and brands have made pivotal changes. They simply need to communicate them more clearly.

But becoming a successful retailer with respect

to sustainability does not only boil down to knowledge. It’s also about passion. Today’s retail store should do more than simply offer the best products, know-how and service. By filling the store with your values and vision, you are also showcasing your identity. Here, a sense of community with other like-minded people is becoming increasingly important.

“Stores must ensure they have an identity that appeals to the right target group, that they share the same values. The staff should come across as trustworthy friends who you would be happy to receive advice from.”

Communicating sustainability

“This is especially true when it comes to sustainability. The ‘better product’ is often a bit more expensive. It’s also a question of respect.

Everyone feels betrayed when their willingness is exploited. In this context, honesty is even more important for a good customer relation.”

Here, communication is vital. As a retailer, one needs to find the balance between knowledge and passion when communicating with the conscious consumer.

“Transparency and honesty can create a longterm relationship, which is much more important in a world where an unlimited number of choices can quickly take a customer group elsewhere.

Mutual relationships are becoming more important than low prices.”

Working with communications can be demanding for the retailer with limited time and money.

If you have the passion and a little creativity, there is much to be gained. Loyalty towards the customers and having the “right people” are on a resurgence. Additionally, and with economic goals aside, isn’t protecting nature’s beauty the logical consequence and “sustainability” the raison d’être of an outdoor company? Anny Cardinahl agrees: “A mission like this can create motivation for the daily business. Point of sales is a tough, serviceoriented job where staff need as much motivation as they can get. As these motivated, informed staff do their job, customers are also apt to become more motivated and informed themselves.”

ANNY CARDINAHL

Founder of #ODLX Outdoordeluxe.

Previously worked for 23 years with the German retailer Globetrotter – from Marketing through Purchase to Head of Category Management.

suston – 29

PARTNER: BERGANS SPONSORED CONTENT

Long live the product In their flagship store in Oslo, Bergans of Norway is turning their vision of a circular economy into a reality.

T

he 1000 m2 store near Oslo City Hall first opened in August 2016. Besides offering the world’s largest assortment of Bergans products, the store has evolved into a kind of test center for sustainable business development. A part of Bergans’ own sewing workshop – previously located at the head office in Hokksund – has been moved to the store, where repairs of Bergans products are now carried out on-site by specialist staff. Along with the highly successful sale of second-hand products, a rental program including large backpacks, tents and ski wear has also been launched.

“To repair clothes is nothing new. But how can we as an outdoor brand help to change a mindset so our customers start looking at outdoor products in a new way?

Here, our store has been very important,” 30 – suston

says Christoph Centmayer, Sustainability Manager at Bergans of Norway.

Bergans of Norway includes the transition towards a circular business model in the company’s long-term strategy.

Bergan’s motto “Long live the product” summarizes the vision that products should be returned, repaired, reused and redesigned instead of becoming waste.

But visions and goals require action.

“When you start taking action, you need to be able to test new solutions and then scale up the solutions you see are working well.”

A good example of how the Oslo flagship store aids the transition is the return system launched in 2017.

“The second-hand assortment had become so popular that we were often out of stock. Now, we all know how much unused products people have hanging

in their wardrobes. To make people see these products as potential resources, we started to offer a small return payment to everyone who left used outdoor products at the store – also from other outdoor brands.”

A national return system The customer response was positive, and in September Bergans was able to scale up the system. To make the product return option available to Norwegian customers living outside the capital city region, Bergans developed the “Pantepose” (The Return Bag), a 20-liter recyclable LD-Polythene bag equipped with the company’s address and prepaid postage. For every bag sent in, Bergans offers a rebate coupon as a bonus.

“Within a month, people had ordered around 700 bags from our webshop.

A few weeks later we had received over 300 outdoor products.”

Returned products from Bergans are repaired and sold in the flagship store’s second-hand department. Products from other brands that are in good shape are donated to an aid organization.

“A lot of the clothes that are not repairable go into our own redesign project, where we use the textiles etc. to make unique, handmade products with a new functionality. This is also a way to show our customers how much can be done with a product instead of letting it go to waste,” explains Christoph Centmayer.

Bergans at ISPO: Hall A2 102 bergans.com

We aRe SpinDye® is an ingredient brand that offers a technically innovative color system. We deliver a clean, traceable coloring method of textiles with an unparalleled performance and long term awesomeness.

C L E A N C O LO R S Colors are great, but they can be challenging to produce. At We aRe SpinDye®, we believe in abandoning the harmful practice of water dyeing and leading by example, inspiring the textile world to instead choose a more sustainable method of modern coloring.

P U T T I N G WAT ER O U T O F BU S I N ES S The global textile industry is accountable for massive water pollution. Research cited by the World Bank indicates that nearly 20% of all water pollution world wide is related to the process of dyeing textiles. Using our scientific and precise color system, we can introduce the color early in the manufacturing sequence. With this method, the exact color is integrated into the material from the beginning, and heavily reduce the use of water and chemicals.

T R U E S U S TA I N A BI L I T Y The results are astounding – the product keeps its exact color, year after year, regardless of wear, washing or sun. But above all, we’re leaving water and chemicals out of the equation, saving the planet, one consciously colored product at a time.

V I S I T U S AT I S P O A 2 :10 0 W W W. S P I N DY E.C O M KPI’s are individual from item to item. *Audited by 3rd part:

CSR

It’s been called the largest elimination of protected land in American history. But the fight is not over yet. The reduction of the Bears Ears National Monument in Utah has turned major American outdoor brands into full-blown activists.

BY JONATHAN FRÆNKEL-EIDSE

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PHOTO: ADRIEL HEISEY

THE NEW ACTIVISTS

CSR

A farewell to Salt Lake City As outfitter to adventurers and explorers of such wildernesses, the outdoor industry is uniquely positioned to raise awareness of conservation issues. Certainly, several brands and industry organizations had acted as conservation advocates for many years, but without broadcasting their standpoints in any significant manner outside the outdoor community. This was all about to change.

In spring 2017, a handful of outdoor companies took initiative and pleaded with Utah’s governor to reconsider, but he was resolute. The outdoors industry hadn’t made much of a fuss before, so he would have been prudent to bet that they would all quickly forget about the whole ordeal and get back to making gloves and such.

Not this time. Concealed beneath the recycled polyester glove was an iron fist that Patagonia, Arc’teryx, The North Face, Polartec and REI were first to brandish, following through with their threat to boycott the semi-annual Outdoor Retailer trade show, Utah’s largest and worth roughly $45 million to the local economy. Many other brands large and small quickly followed suit, and Outdoor Retailer announced it would be saying farewell to Salt Lake City, its home for the last 21 years, to relocate to Denver, Colorado in 2018.

Meanwhile in Washington, Bears Ears’ fate was already being determined by the bureaucrats.

Following an executive order by Trump, a department tasked to review 26 national monuments recommended that the Bears Ears monument be downsized by 85 % – from 1.5 million acres to a mere 228,784 acres.

Brands raising their voice Television and radio ads, website and social media awareness campaigns, petitions, lobbying and now threats of legal action – the combined effort begins to resemble a full-blown Greenpeace campaign. Yet the people leading the charge are not hardened activists: they’re the people behind your favorite backpack. The outdoors industry is unquestionably in a united uproar without precedent. But why here, and why now?

Bears Ears initially represented a somewhat unique situation, whereby the brands leading the charge could hold the Outdoor Retailer trade show as a bargaining chip when negotiating with politicians. This kind of leverage is indeed rare. Insofar as Patagonia’s role is concerned, Corley Kenna, Senior Director of Patagonia’s Global Communications and Public Relations, points out: “Patagonia has long taken a leadership role in conservation advocacy, and our particular involvement in Bears Ears today stems from the fact that we were also an integral part of the successful lobbying effort that had the monument declared in the first place. And now, less than a year has passed since the victory and it already faces annihilation.”

On December 4th, President Trump signed a proclamation in favor of the department’s recommendation to reduce the Bears Ears National Monument by 85%.

Current Bears Ears Monument boundaries encompass 1.5 million acres of weathered sandstone canyonlands and mesas in Utah.

MAP: BEARSEARSCOALITION.ORG

I

n south-eastern Utah, the two large sandstone mesas called the Bears Ears is a wellknown landmark – and has been so for ages.

They are incorporated into Native American cultural legends and histories. Several southwestern tribes, like the Navajo and Hopi, trace their ancestry to the ancient peoples who populated this rugged, dry region since time immemorial.

Already in the 1930’s, attempts were made to include Bears Ears in a new National Monument.

Yet it wasn’t until the end of 2016, when President Obama’s decided to establish a new National Monument here, that this unique area was protected. The decision was a victory for many Native Americans, but also for outdoor enthusiasts in the US. Several first-rate rock climbing sites are found here, as well as myriads of running and mountain bike trails.

But the victory was short-lived. Shortly after the Trump administration took office in 2017, it declared its intention to reduce public lands across the country, opening them up to fossil fuel companies, mining and other commercial activities. Pouncing on the opportunity, a Utah congressional delegation requested that President Trump roll back protections for the newly designated Bears Ears Monument.

This led to what has been called a tipping point for the American outdoor industry; an industry that is perhaps unrivalled in its dependence on the conservation of wild spaces.

suston – 33

PHOTO: JOSH EWING

CSR

Ancient dwellings frame the twinformation that gives the monument its namesake, the Bears Ears.

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A trend that unites or divides?

Efforts to clean up supply chains, close manufacturing loops and reduce carbon footprints all had to start somewhere, yet today they have become ubiquitous. When asked if brands going it alone as conservation activists will be the next trend, Kenna feels that “it’s too soon to tell.” But here Kenna is quick to point out that Patagonia is hardly “going it alone.”

“We are part of a broad coalition of brands, conservation organizations and tribal bands fighting alongside one another.”

Kenna sees the Bears Ears as the “tip of the spear” in the fight to protect public lands in the US. “Whether this movement will export to other countries is hard to say, but the engagement of foreign brands in the Bears Ears battle is certainly encouraging.”

Naturally, major brands must consider the financial implications of their actions. In a response to the decision by President Trump, the largest retailer chain in the States, REI, wrote: “Americans enjoy our public lands in every part of the country, irrespective of politics. Not only have hikers, cyclists, climbers and hunters enjoyed national monuments, but economies have been built around them through outfitters, guides and retailers. The $887 billion outdoor recreation economy employs over 7.6 million people in good, sustainable jobs.”

While many of the comments to this statement on REI’s website were enthusiastic, far from everybody appreciated REI’s position: “I’m so tired of big corporations trying to force a dishonest political ideology on us; hence why I’m no longer a customer of yours,” is just one of many critical posts.

When CSR begins to look the same from one company to the next, going the extra mile remains the best bet of standing out from the crowd. And while it’s certainly not risk-free, companies that effectively communicate their environmental leadership have much to gain. In an era where identity branding meets environmental crises, many of the most sustainable brands are used by eco-conscious consumers to identify themselves to their tribes. If brands already serve as the banners around which we rally and have raised the call to arms, can we – and should we – then expect them to lead the charge into battle? Facing a turning point where our elected officials and traditional institutions seem to be gagged and bound or downright adversarial when it comes to environmental protection, people are sure to begin looking for leadership elsewhere.

WHAT IS A NATIONAL MONUMENT? In the US, a National Monument is a protected area similar to a National Park. Any land owned or controlled by the Federal government that falls under ”historic landmarks, historic and prehistoric structures, and other objects of historic or scientific interest” can be so designated by either Presidential proclamation or Congressional legislation. Its use has been contentious since its inception, as this power allows the President to circumvent Congress.

During his presidency period, Obama created or expanded 34 national monuments, more than any president before him. There are currently 129 National Monuments.

CSR

Collective conservation

1

TEXT JONATHAN FRÆNKEL-EIDSE

2

Examples of projects supported

by EOCA:

1 BATUMI RAPTOR TRAIL PROJECT

2 PROTECTING OLDGROWTH FOREST Half of Sweden’s threatened species are dependent on old growth forest but only 3.8% of forest is currently protected.

PHOTO: JUKKA LAUSMAA

An effort to stave off illegal hunting of Georgia’s raptors by increasing their value for the locals.

3

3 MOUNTAIN WILDERNESS PROJECT

PHOTO: EMILIEN MAULAVE

“C

onservation should be the core of all outdoor brands. Protecting nature is not only a good thing, it is something we as a business are dependent on,” maintains Christoph Centmayer, Sustainability Manager for Bergans of Norway.

Fortunately, this maxim has gained widespread support within the outdoor industry. Brands chipping in to various conservation pots has become virtually standard practice, where organizations like the European Outdoor Conservation Association (EOCA), the Conservation Alliance, and 1% for the Planet engage in conservation projects and advocacy on behalf of their members.

Centmayer points out that while taking direct responsibility for the social and sustainability of products is the natural domain of a company’s internal operations, when it comes to conservation advocacy “it’s a question of what kind of leverage a brand actually has alone.”

This is partly why pooling the resources of the entire industry into organizations like the EOCA has been the modus operandi for Bergans and many others. It’s also considered the strategy that leaves the job to the pros. As Tanya Bascombe, General Manager at EOCA explains: “Companies do not need extra time and staff to look for, evaluate, monitor and manage projects themselves.”

Bascombe also notes that some brands choose to go it alone, and as far as she’s concerned there’s no reason why these two tactics cannot coexist: “At the end of the day, all the money is going into conserving and looking after our wild spaces, which is the ultimate goal!”

PHOTO: KALLE MELLER

The European outdoor industry is also engaged in nature conservancy, though here preferring financial support over direct activism.

A team of volunteers work to remove obsolete installations from the Alps.

suston – 35

THE FAN PHOTOGRAPHERS Spread: Linus Meyer Left to right below: Karin Alfredsson Mattias Fredriksson Chanelle Sladics Oskar Karlin

NTASTIC

FIVE

Ski-touring in Northern Norway, ice skating in Swedish Lapland or winter kayaking in Stockholm’s frosty archipelago – with a minimum ecological impact. Meet five adventurers from Scandinavia’s outdoor elite who pursue their passions along with the greatest concern for the environment.

INSPIRATION

THE PATHFINDER Mountain guide Carl Lundberg started thinking about the impact his trips had on the environment. Now he wants to get more people to combine spectacular ski experiences with good environmental practices.

BY ANNIKA GOLDHAMMER PHOTO LINUS MEYER

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CARL LUNDBERG

Profession: IFMGA Mountain Guide Age: 45 Residence: Stockholm, Sweden More info: skitouring scandinavia.com

t’s a little like a traveling circus – the international mountain guides that move between continents and countries searching for the best snow conditions for every period of the winter season. From the Wanaka mountains in Southern New Zealand to the Lyngen Alps in Northern Norway. Carl Lundberg from Stockholm started working as a mountain guide over ten years ago – an adventurous lifestyle with countless flights in planes and helicopters. His dream was to follow winter around the globe and he sold the same lifestyle to his customers.

But there was something that gnawed at him.

While environmental awareness was increasing in society, he found it more difficult to defend his lifestyle. But even though his awareness of the issue was there, making the change wasn’t so easy.

He thought of things like: “If I don’t offer heliskiing, someone else will,” and “What I do makes no difference on the whole.” Then he heard a radio program from the world-famous environmental professor Johan Rockström and shortly afterwards, he read Images of the Future City, a book about sustainable development.

“Both the book and radio program hit me like a bolt of lightning,” says Carl Lundberg.

“In the book, for instance, it said that flights needed to go down to the same level as in the 1990s. I lived in the ’90s, and things were great despite the fact that we were flying less often and eating less meat.”

First, he questioned if a sustainable lifestyle was incompatible with skiing.

“It is easy to be affected by a feeling of powerlessness when it comes to the climate. I went through a phase like this, but then I decided to turn my reasoning around. Whatever felt like too much to change, I put aside for the time-being, and then I focused on what was easy to change.”

Ecolocigal ski adventures

He realized that – from a climate perspective – the range between the worst and best imaginable ski trip was enormous. Thus, he continued to ski, but in a far more climate-friendly way.

Taking a train instead of flying when possible was one of the things he began doing. For the next season, he turned down all guide jobs that required flying. He then took an additional step and launched ecological ski trips with small groups in Norway and Sweden.

“We do not use flights, just trains as long as it’s possible, then buses or lastly a car, and preferably an electric car if possible. Instead of snowmobiles and helicopters, I use dog sleds or we just trek.”

“I try to optimize my trips in every possible way.

At the same time, you need to be pragmatic, the trip can’t be all chopped up investigating the climate. I want to show that it actually isn’t that difficult to ski in an environmentally conscious way.

He also wants to inspire his guests to make a change at other levels.

“Start with what is easy to change. The most obvious thing for a winter sport trip is to choose destinations that you can reach without taking a flight, to consume less, to choose environmentally friendly products, and to eat in an environmentally conscious way.”

“And don’t lose your perspective – your vacation is not more important than our planet.”

INSPIRATION

THE NAVIGATOR Moving in rhythm with the ocean is a fantastic feeling according to kayaker Karin Åmossa. But being a part of nature also entails responsibility.

BY ANNIKA GOLDHAMMER PHOTO KARIN ALFREDSSON

W

hen Karin Åmossa was a child, she and her sister used to play with seaweed and algae in Stockholm’s archipelago, where the family spent its summers in a sailboat.

“I have lots of memories of what it used to look like under the surface when we dove in and swam. So I was sad when I grew up and saw how the Baltic Sea had changed; with a brown sludge that is suffocating the seaweed. But in recent years, I think it has been looking slightly better under the surface.”

Karin Åmossa ought to know. She spends much of her free time sitting in her kayak, so she sees what is going on underneath the surface. She goes kayaking all year round, preferably traveling long distances. Last summer, she kayaked from her home in the Stockholm suburb of Gröndal to the border between Russia and Finland. One of her most extreme kayak adventures was an attempt to kayak along the entire coast of Norway in the summer of 2015 – a very exposed stretch.

“We started in Strömstad on the border between Sweden and Norway and traveled to Tromsø in northern Norway. We were forced to end our journey there. The weather became too difficult, it was the coldest, windiest, and rainiest summer in Norway in 76 years. We were out for 100 days.”

Close to wildlife

According to Karin Åmossa, it is an “existentially fantastic feeling” to go kayaking and live in rhythm with the ocean, nature and your own body and soul.

“Here and now becomes tangible, as does our own smallness. When you’re kayaking, you get so close to the wildlife and we have had the privilege of seeing sea otters, seals and orcas at play.”

“I go kayaking year round. The kayak is an arctic vessel and is extremely well-suited to travel in cold water. It is warm, dry and sheltered for the greater part of your body, and in the winter

months, you get to experience a completely deserted archipelago. It’s magical.”

Leave no traces

Kayaking is also an excellent hobby for someone like Karin Åmossa, who wants to live as sustainably as possible.

“When we travel long distances by kayak, we contribute to the local economy. Unlike someone traveling by motorhome, for example, we can’t bring everything we need, but instead buy food and necessities along the way. We aren’t releasing emissions and we don’t make noise either. That is probably also why we are often very well received.”

“If you’re out in nature, the rule about leaving no traces is a good one. You take all your trash with you, human waste is buried, and it’s best to pee where the vegetation can take care of the nitrogen.”

When Karin Åmossa is not out at sea, she also tries to minimize her environmental impact.

“I don’t eat meat aside from exceptional occasions, I ride my bike or kayak to work, I never drive on weekdays, and I donate to environmental organizations. So that we, our children, grandchildren and the animals we share the planet with will be able to have a future.”

KARIN ÅMOSSA

Occupation: Head of Research and International Affairs at a trade union.

Age: 52 Residence: Stockholm, Sweden

INSPIRATION

THE LOCAL HERO Instead of traveling around the world for skiing, Mikael af Ekenstam is choosing to explore the mountains where he lives. It’s a mission that he has devoted more than ten years to.

BY GABRIEL ARTHUR PHOTO MATTIAS FREDRIKSSON

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n retrospect, Mikael af Ekenstam can see that 1998 was a decisive year in his life in two different ways. On the one hand, he won The Scandinavian Big Mountain Championships in Telemark skiing in Riksgränsen in northern Sweden. On the other hand, he moved to Gothenburg to study natural sciences at the university.

The victory in the competition in Riksgränsen became a ticket to the Scandinavian freeskiing elite. During the years that followed, Mikael af Ekenstam was Sweden’s most renowned Telemark skier and he participated in several ski movies.

“I moved into a collective in Gothenburg with vegans and environmental activists. And I got to meet interesting researchers who, among other things, opened my eyes to the climate issue.”

MIKAEL AF EKENSTAM

Age: 46 Occupation: Environmental consultant and sustainability director Residence: Narvik, Norway

A move to the mountains After his studies, Mikael af Ekenstam wanted to combine his two major interests: skiing and environmental issues. He moved to Kiruna in northern Sweden and then on to Narvik on the Norwegian side of the border, where he now lives with his family a stone’s throw from the local ski facility.

“I began working in the energy and environmental sector. Today, I work at Sweco, one of the Nordic region’s largest technology consultant

companies focused on sustainability.”

Along with his work (and his political commitment to the Green Party), Mikael af Ekenstam has devoted hundreds of winter days to exploring the Norwegian and Swedish mountains around Narvik. He has carried out his exploration with the help of climbing skins under his skis – a very environmentally friendly method of transportation. Together with a photographer, he has written best-selling guidebooks of the top ski tours in this vast mountain region.

The fact that he has chosen to stay on his home ground is a deliberate environmental choice.

“I have to fly sometimes for my job, so I don’t want to fly in my free time as well. I don’t do any ski trips by plane and have an ongoing negotiation with the rest of my family when we plan our vacations.”

Meditative ski touring He views his self-imposed limitation as an exciting challenge.

“Instead of traveling away from home, I want to travel within myself. To see what the mind can manage by skiing really steep runs, get in better shape and have more endurance, get better at using the equipment on the way up as well as down. And even finding new places to ski, new stretches that link different tours and mountains.”

“I realize I’m very fortunate to live where I can ski basically every day throughout the winter. I’ll never get bored – I can enjoy changes in the light, the snow, the weather.”

His ski tours, long and high in number, also give him energy and time for his thoughts.

“Spending a lot of time out in nature gives me motivation to work with environmental issues.

I work in an industry where we are technology optimists. But I have a hard time seeing technology solve everything. At the same time, we need to change how we think about consumption and we need to change our behaviors.”

“And I believe that trying to live in line with your values provides more harmony.”

INSPIRATION

THE SNOW GURU Kjersti Buaas is a professional snowboarder who always travels with her own utensils in her luggage, plants desert vegetation in California, and dreams about solar-powered flights.

BY ANNIKA GOLDHAMMER PHOTO CHANELLE SLADICS

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jersti Buaas from Trondheim, Norway has been competing in half-pipe and slope-style snowboarding events throughout the world for 20 years, winning medals at the Olympic Games, the X Games, and the US Open. Today, she has both her own clothing line manufactured from recycled materials as well as her own travel agency that offers holistic retreats for adventurous women.

Everything started in the Norwegian mountains.

“We had a cottage near Dovre and Foldal in Norway, and my family was always out hiking in the forest or mountains.”

Her childhood experiences laid the foundation for Kjersti’s commitment to the environment, something she describes as an “essential part” of her life today.

“I always choose products that are sustainably manufactured. I almost never eat meat and prefer organic produce from farmers’ markets or my own garden. I always have a bottle of water and utensils with me when I travel.”

Protecting our winters Her traveling makes her try to live and work as environmentally friendly as possible in other aspects.

In addition, she uses her platform as an internationally famous snowboarder to raise awareness about the environment and sustainability.

“For example, I am a member of Protect Our Winters, an international movement within the winter sports community against climate change.”

“Another exciting project I want to push for is Draw Down, which shows the 100 most effective ways of reversing global warming. It’s a list that shows you how you can contribute, both as an individual and on a large scale. Take a look – I am convinced you will find several measures that you didn’t think could contribute to solving the climate crisis.”

KJERSTI BUAAS

Occupation: Professional snowboarder Age: 35 Residence: Trondheim, Norway / California US More info: kjerstibuaas.com, prsnt.co

PHOTO: DRONETTE

Grow with nature During the summer, she lives in California.

There, she has an outlet for one of her major interests: Growing according to the principle of permaculture.

“It’s a philosophy that deals with growing with instead of against nature. For example, you can plant flowers that attract pollinating insects as well as “root diggers” that go deep down into the soil to gather nutrients in order to provide nutrition to fruit trees.”

“The house that we live in has solar panels, so we are self-sufficient when it comes to electricity.

Furthermore, we have replaced our lawn on our property with cacti and succulents, which do not require as much water, in order to save resources.”

As a professional athlete, she flies quite a lot, although she has reduced the number of travel days in recent years. She is aware that she is a part of the problem when it comes to carbon emissions,

but she doesn’t believe that the solution needs to be to stop traveling altogether.

“Travel arouses our curiosity, gives us perspective, and creates understanding for different people and cultures. There are so many positive things about travel, so I’m hoping the future will bring more sources of renewable energy. Wouldn’t it be amazing to fly with a solar-powered plane?”

INSPIRATION

THE WAYFARER It might seem logical: If you love ice, you don’t want to contribute to climate change. At least, that is how Oskar Karlin, one of Sweden’s leading Nordic ice skaters, sees it.

BY ANNIKA GOLDHAMMER PHOTO OSKAR KARLIN

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OSKAR KARLIN

Occupation: Cartographer Age: 39 Residence: Stockholm, Sweden

t’s one of Sweden’s biggest winter activities – and it is virtually unknown beyond the country’s borders. Nordic ice skating involves skating on frozen lakes and sea water with elongated ice skates, ski boots, and ice picks. Most people do day tours in groups with a leader. On a cold, sunny weekend, thousands of skaters can be out on the ice in Stockholm’s archipelago. But there are also skaters that turn the trip into an adventure. They can travel over a hundred kilometers in a day, sometimes on thin ice. The best of all is being the first person on a lake where no one else has skated.

Among the group of adventurous skaters in Sweden, Oskar Karlin is a household name. In the winter of 2016, he and two friends did a system of lakes that no one had skated before: The vast lakes in Padjelanta National Park in Sweden’s Lapland, 54 kilometers into the wilderness from the end of the road. In winter, their ice is usually covered with snow. But during a few freezing cold and clear days in early January, the satellite images showed what looked like perfect conditions for ice skating.

When other ice skaters do similar long-distance expeditions, they often get to the ice by plane and helicopter. That was never an option for Oskar Karlin.

“We took the night train from Stockholm to Gällivare. There weren’t any buses that traveled on to the area during that period, so we had to rent a car and drive there. Then we made our way on skies and ice skates for three days.”

For Oskar Karlin, flying is not an option as long as there are other means of travel. One reason is the large carbon emissions from traveling by plane, but another reason is because the journey itself becomes a part of the hardship.

“Some people get a kick out of climbing up the top of a mountain but don’t worry about how they get there. I want getting there to be a challenge. It makes the entire experience better.”

Oskar Karlin also makes adjustments in other aspects of his life in order to make as small an impact on the climate as possible. He doesn’t eat meat and uses public transportation. If he needs to travel by car, he rents an electric one.

“All of this is self-explanatory to me, but I realize it’s not for everyone. I can get upset at friends who fly to Berlin over a weekend even when they know how detrimental it is.”

Work less, live more

If Oscar Karlin wants to travel from Stockholm to Berlin, he takes the train.

“I did that a few years ago and it went great. I love taking the train. And taking the night train from Stockholm to the Swedish mountains is fantastic. You board the train in the evening and you’re there the next morning and you can go right out on the mountain.”

A common excuse is that the train takes too long, but he thinks this is just a cop-out.

“High earners can employ arguments like that they deserve to travel to London over the weekend because they work so hard, but it doesn’t justify unsustainable behavior.”

Oskar Karlin works as a map specialist and has a position that is 80% of full-time.

“It gives me more time to live and less money to consume.”

WOOL SOURCING

Hit by the

storm

In summer 2015, video footage showing the maltreatment of sheep in Argentina went viral, with the animal rights organization PETA accusing the network Ovis 21. Once seen as a sustainability pioneer in the industry, Ovis 21 became a pariah overnight and large customers ended their cooperation with the network.

Suston’s reporter Karen Hensel interviews the founder Ricardo Fenton on what has happened since.

BY KAREN HENSEL

48 – suston

T

he sun stands vertically against the steel-blue sky and a strong wind sweeps over the grasslands on the vast estates surrounding the Estancia Montedinero. On this farm, located in the province of Santa Cruz on the southeastern tip of the Patagonia region, 14 000 sheep of the type ”Merino Multiproposito” are bred on 26 000 hectares of land.

The Estancia Montedinero is owned by the fifth generation of the Fenton family.

Ricardo Fenton, a red-haired man wearing sturdy leather boots and a plaid shirt, studied and worked in Australia and New Zealand before returning to Argentina in 2003. With him, he brought important innovations in sheep husbandry. Back home again, he invited the agronomist Pablo Borrelli to found an organization that could introduce this knowledge at a regional level in their part of Patagonia. Their mission was to develop a more sustainable method of sheep farming and wool production, focusing on grassland regeneration and biodiversity. Ricardo Fenton, today Sheep and Wool Manager of Ovis 21, explains: “Traditional farming in Argentina was not concentrating much on sustainability back then. We saw the need for an organization that could spread knowledge of holistic land management, especially to prevent land erosion and help farmers with flock improvement.”

Viral footage

When PETA published its video footage in 2015, they chose an alarming title with the world famous outdoor brand in focus: ”Patagonia’s ‘Sustainable Wool’ supplier exposed: lambs skinned alive, throats slit, tails cut off.” Among the accused sheep farms were two members of Ovis 21.

The company Patagonia had begun cooperating with Ovis 21 in 2011. One of the reasons for this cooperation was another campaign by PETA, which exposed the painful process of mulesing sheep on Australian farms. Mulesing is not used in sheep farms in the southern end of South America.

On Patagonia’s website, there was a long list of achievements linked to Ovis 21. Shortly after PETA published the footage in 2015, Patagonia released a statement in response: “We begin an urgent investigation into the practices shown in PETA’s video and commit to working with Ovis 21 to make needed improvements, reporting back to our customers and the public on steps we are taking.”

Five days later Patagonia announced it would cease working with Ovis 21 as the cooperation could not assure animal welfare. Other big wool purchasing companies like Stella McCartney soon followed their lead and cut ties with Ovis 21.

But was PETA’s criticism of Ovis 21 fair? At one of the farms exposed in the video, the footage didn’t show any apparent mistreatment. The other farm was expelled from Ovis 21 after further

The Argentinian province Santa Cruz in Patagonia is home to tens of thousands of merino sheep.

suston – 49

Ricardo Fenton studied and worked in Australia and New Zealand before he returned to Argentina in 2003 and founded Ovis 21 together with the agronomist Pablo Borrelli.

investigation. When the magazine Ecotextile News investigated the case in January 2016, the reporter wrote “This is far from a black and white story.”

Furthermore, in response to Patagonia’s claim that it would rebuild its wool program and look for a wool partner that could ensure a strong and consistent approach to animal welfare while also fostering healthy grasslands, the reporter concluded that maybe it already had one.

An unheard voice?

How does a company, or a network of companies like Ovis 21, react when it is hit by an international media storm like this? Can it make its own version heard in the turmoil? And how does the company find its way forward? These are questions I want to ask Ricardo Fenton when I travel through the Santa Cruz province in Patagonia. But as phone coverage is scarce and Ricardo Fenton is constantly visiting the different farms, this proves to be easier said than done. At last, we get in touch and Ricardo Fenton can tell his story – a story he says no one really bothered to listen to.

“We felt powerless in the publicity storm. It was very sad to see that our organization was blamed, and that the media was not interested in informing people about what Ovis 21 actually stands for.

It was obviously unreasonable to blame Ovis 21 for the brutalities exposed by PETA.” 50 – suston

So, what does Ovis 21 actually stand for? Ricardo Fenton says he gladly would have explained that Ovis 21 is comprised of five people working on education and training, setting standards for holistic land management methods, and preserving grassland areas in Argentina. The network consists of 160 member farms, as well as technicians and accredited professionals. They learn from each other and support interested farmers to help them improve what Ricardo Fenton calls holistic skills for managing their land and flock.

“We have developed the Grassland Regeneration and Sustainability Standard (GRASS) together with Nature Conservancy, which assesses sustainable land management. 54 of our member farms have achieved the GRASS certificate already and use their land in a non-destructive way, totaling a land area of approximately 1.3 million hectares.”

He additionally points out that Ovis 21 is a voluntary network, not a controlling organization.

“We don’t know every property personally.”

What impact did the scandal have on Ovis 21?

“It has been a disappointing time for us, with many negative consequences. Due to the media attention, we lost a lot of data regarding the certifying of land, as members decided to exit or not join the network. We also saw that environmental organizations distanced themselves from Ovis 21.

Members that worked hard with improving sustainable land management within our network suddenly were looked down upon. So, you could say that the action had a negative impact on sustainable land management in our region.”

Animal welfare also in focus One reason why Ovis 21 thinks that the media coverage was unfair was that the organization had never claimed that they control and certify animal husbandry on their farms. The main focus of Ovis 21 is on certifying sustainable grassland management and stopping the ongoing land erosion in Argentina and its neighboring areas. But this doesn’t mean that Ovis 21 neglects animal welfare, says Ricardo Fenton.

“We teach flock improvement, give shearing classes and share our best skills to achieve animal welfare out on the member farms. But it’s quite obvious that it would be an impossible task for five people to constantly inspect 160 properties with over a million sheep in total. We trust our members to put the knowledge that they gain in our workshops into practice on their farms.

“I want to make it clear that members of Ovis 21 are pioneers when it comes to improving skills and ways of working towards sustainability. In general, these are open-minded farmers who are willing to change. They are not people who are likely to engage in animal mistreatment, as I see it. But

to check animal welfare on the spot is up to each farmer – or some other organization with resources to take that responsibility.”

In what respect do you see the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) as a valuable certificate?

“RWS plays an important role in improving the conditions of wool production globally, and we fully support their initiative to find a global language for sheep farmers, technicians and the wool value chain. One general challenge with defining global standards is that they are set in relation to the average global situation. The demands of OVIS 21 members regarding land management, for example, are much higher than that required in the RWS. However, our teaching complies with RWS requirements – it did so already before this standard actually existed – and we recommend the RWS certification to our members. Many of them are putting it into practice on their farms and are attaining the certification. We don’t require our members to be RWS certified though, it’s a voluntary decision.”

Over 500,000 hectares on properties with the GRASS certificate have objectively had significant regeneration processes, increasing biological capital as well as improving economic and social welfare of the farmers and their community.

So how will Ovis 21 proceed in the future?

“As we are convinced of the benefits of our work, we are continuing just like we have always done.

We will concentrate our attention on where we are needed and will give advice, support and knowledge to those who call us for help.” suston – 51

WOOL SOURCING

Responsible

HANNA DENES

Sustainability Specialist in Integrity & Materials at Textile Exchange

TEXTILE EXCHANGE

Textile Exchange is a global non-profit that works closely with its members to drive industry transformation in preferred fibers, integrity and standards and responsible supply networks. Standards that have been developed by Textile Exchange include the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), the Responsble Down Standard (RDS), the Global Recycled Standard and more. textile exchange.org

Wool Standard – a safe solution?

Larger brands are increasingly waking up to the PR nightmare when an animal rights group exposes cruel treatment of sheep in their supply chain. Can the Responsible Wool Standard guarantee that the sheep have been treated responsibly and the land is managed in a sustainable way? And from the point of view of animal rights groups like PETA, is the standard enough?

BY KAREN HENSEL & JONATHAN FRAENKEL-EIDSE

T

he Responsible Wool Standard is in initiative from Textile Exchange.

Founded in 2002, Textile Exchange is a global non-profit organization that promotes the increased use of preferred fibers, standards and sustainable supply chain practices in the textile industry. Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Specialist Hanna Denes has 15 years of experience in environmental management and sustainable development, and now heads the organization’s Responsible Wool Standard (RWS). She explains: “The RWS is an independent, voluntary standard that verifies the process by which wool is produced. It helps improve the humane treatment of sheep, the progressive management of the land on which they graze and a fully traceable supply chain. Independent, third-party audits are conducted at each stage of the supply chain on a regular and on-going basis to ensure that the standard’s requirements are met consistently.”

There are currently certified farms across all major apparel wool growing regions of the world.

As one of the foremost global wool standards, RWS has gained widespread support in the textile and apparel industries, and its partners include such outdoor brands and retailers as REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op and Vaude.

“Our standard enables textile and apparel industries to source wool in a way that meets their corporate responsibility goals, and to make claims about their wool with confidence.”

PETA still critical

As described in the article about Ovis 21 (p. 48–51), the animal rights organization PETA has accused wool suppliers and outdoor brands as being complicit in an industry where sheep are mistreated.

According to Frank Schmidt, senior specialist for animals in the clothing industry at PETA Germany, mistreatment in the wool industry is rather the rule than the exception.

“To begin with, sheep farming is not sustainable from an ecological point of view in many regions of the world as it demands huge water consumption and causes land erosion especially in warmer

WOOL SOURCING

climate zones. Furthermore, as in all industries, cost efficiency is often the highest priority. Shearing is performed under immense time pressure, which easily leads to high stress levels and injuries for the sheep,” says Frank Schmidt.

As PETA sees it, the RWS is not enough. Frank Schmidt goes so far as to call RWS “greenwash,” and claims that a customer choosing between one wool product with RWS certified wool or another with regular wool can pick either one. Or rather neither of them, if PETA had its way.

“The recurring farm inspections, which RWS claims to be their primary control mechanism, are not performed often enough. And despite officially being said to be un-announced, in practice it often turns out that the farm is given a time frame in advance, within a couple of weeks, during which the inspection will occur. This contradicts the whole purpose behind the visits as it gives the farm a chance to prepare for the inspection and show a polished facade, for example, by getting rid of injured or unhealthy animals. In order to make progress, these inspections would need to be performed entirely un-announced and much more frequently.”

A global benchmark

Textile Exchange strongly opposes PETA’s claim that the Responsible Wool Standard is a kind of greenwash. Hanna Denes points out that the RWS is by far the best available global tool to help improve the welfare of the sheep that supply fibers.

“At Textile Exchange, we have worked closely with leading animal welfare experts from Four Paws, Humane Society and Wildlife Friendly, alongside industry stakeholders, to develop the standard. We are horrified by any mistreatment of animals at the hands of farmers or the workers they depend on, and find it much more effective to recognize and support those who are farming well, which the RWS provides the platform to do.”

“PETA has claimed that mistreatment of sheep is the rule, but there is no global data available to confirm this. To the contrary, we have seen many examples of progressive farmers that work hard to ensure the health and welfare of their animals,” explains Hanna Denes.

As Textile Exchange sees it, the RWS sets a global benchmark that enables companies to align their sourcing policies, and to buy wool that meets strict animal welfare and land management criteria. The RWS is not a guarantee but rather an instrument for best

practices in both animal welfare and land management, where there was no previous industrywide standard. The standard has built-in consequences for not meeting the requirements, including certifications being revoked and farms found with serious animal welfare violations being ineligible to apply again for a year or more.

“The goals of the RWS are bold, and achieving them will not happen overnight. It will take commitment from farmers, brands, suppliers, and animal welfare experts to move the industry towards the best practices we are trying to achieve on farms in regions all around the world.”

FRANK SCHMIDT

Senior specialist for animals in the clothing industry at PETA Germany.

Cooperation in Argentina

With regard to the wool sourcing in Argentina that created a heated debate in 2015 (described in the Ovis 21 article), Textile Exchange has been working together with two key wool-industry organizations since 2017.

“The RWS content, language, and best practices will be used as a basis for training regional farmers, including those associated with Ovis 21, marking the first time Textile Exchange works at a national level to implement the principles of a standard,” says Hanna Denes and continues: “Without a global standard like the RWS, this level of positive change wouldn’t be possible.

Textile Exchange remains more committed than ever to the RWS and we look forward to continued collaboration with industry leaders and animal welfare experts.”

PETA

PETA is an international nonprofit charitable organization founded in 1980 to establish and defend animal rights. PETA is based in Norfolk, Virginia, with partner organizations worldwide.

It educates policymakers and the public about animal abuse and promotes kind treatment of animals.

Main focus areas of PETA are factory farms, laboratories, clothing trade and the entertainment industry. peta.org

CSR

ILLUSTRATION: NADIA NÖRBOM

5 WOOL SPECIALISTS

54 – suston

Suston Magazine is cooperating with several outdoor companies that are pioneers in sustainability. We asked five of them to share how they work with wool sourcing, animal welfare, and other important issues in the production of wool apparel.

SPONSORED CONTENT PARTNER: SALEWA

From the mountains for the mountains Mountaineering specialist Salewa combines wool from the Tyrolean mountain sheep with modern Celliant technology and utilizes a highly functional natural fiber harvested by local mountain farmers.

S

outh Tyrolean mountain sheep wool can be found in many winter jackets made by the mountaineering specialist Salewa. This idea from a few years ago was the brainchild of Peter Veider, Managing Director of the Tyrolean mountain rescue organization: “We wanted to outfit the mountain rescuers with natural fibers from the region,” explains Veider.

However, beyond all sustainability efforts, the quality had to be right.

Fulfilling this requirement wasn’t easy at first. Despite all its advantages, the Tyrolean mountain sheep does not produce a fine wool like its cousin, the Merino sheep.

“The end user has become a little spoiled in this regard. Primarily when the textiles are worn directly on the body,” says Christine Ladstätter, Head of Product Innovation at Salewa’s apparel division.

According to Christine Ladstätter, the mountain sheep’s wool is excellent for one thing – as an insulation material in the

form of highly functional wool padding.

This is why Salewa ultimately agreed when Peter Veider came to them with his idea of promoting the Tyrolean mountain sheep and supporting their owners as a local supplier of raw materials. A raw material that until recently – it should be mentioned – was rarely put to use and was often discarded after shearing.

The sustainability concept not only includes the short transportation routes, but also the cleaning and refining process that takes place in Bergamo and Cittadella. Once the wool is washed, it is refined.

Ecological insulation aid This refining process includes the initial step of oxygen treatment called OxyWash, a patented wash that differs from conventional processes in that it forgoes the use of chlorine, which is harmful from an environmental standpoint. This ensures its washability and makes the wool soft, odorless, and more breathable.

Above all, the sheep’s wool in most jackets (Puez, Ortles, Fanes) is also furnished with an insulation aid that is crucially important when it comes to the competition for the best winter jackets: Celliant.

Functionality and sustainability Technically speaking, Celliant is a patented mix of thermoactive minerals in a fine powder form. The material is embedded in recycled polyester fibers and absorbs the body’s long-wave infrared rays and radiates them back over a longer period of time. Similar to a small infrared sauna, the rays stimulate local circulation.

Put simply: The body stays at operating temperature longer. Once the multifunctional Tyrolean mountain sheep fleece is finally stitched and packed in a dense fiber weave, a successful symbiosis of functionality and sustainability emerges.

Salewa at ISPO: Hall A4, CSR hub salewa.com suston – 55

PARTNER: ORTOVOX SPONSORED CONTENT

The natural promise With the Ortovox Wool Promise, the German mountaineering brand is challenging the industry’s standards for an ethically responsible sourcing of Merino wool – while making friends on the other side of the globe.

T

he ORTOVOX passion for wool goes back to the eighties. When the German alpine safety pioneer launched its first mountainwear series in 1988, all jackets, sweaters, gloves and socks were completely made of wool. Thirty years later, the natural material is still playing a key role. It is used in every single product of the current collection – Merino wool from Tasmania in their underwear, hoodies, fleece jackets or the inside of hardshell products and Swisswool from the alps for their insulation.

Ties of friendship in Tasmania “Everything we do is related to and inspired by nature,” explains Sustainability Manager Stefanie Rieder-Haas.

“In that sense, wool has always been a natural choice for us. We love the functionality, the look and the feel – and not least the sustainability aspect of it.”

With the Ortovox Wool Promise (OWP), the company has now created its own rigorous industry standard for the ethically responsible sourcing of wool. It aims to promote best practices in animal welfare and land management, and to meet the concerns of consumers and of non-governmental organizations. The promise serves both as a concrete guide56 – suston

line and as a statement that reflects the brand’s values of sustainability, friendship and wool expertise.

“ORTOVOX has twenty years experience in working with merino wool, and since we have discovered the nature paradise of Tasmania as a perfect source for the premium fiber, we have built strong relationships with the farmers that provide our raw material,” says Stefanie.

She points out how important it is to work with people with the same mindset, with suppliers who share the understanding of what is ethically responsible and that a sustainable approach is more profitable in the long run.

Beyond the supply chain ORTOVOX has been actively involved in the development of the global certification system Responsible Wool Standard (RWS). During this work, the company recognized that its own criteria for wool suppliers even went beyond this standard, particularly in aspects that are not part of the wool supply chain: “We also care about what happens to the sheep after they leave the farm: how they are transported, where and how they are slaughtered. That operators are quality assured and use humane practices,”

says the Sustainability Manager.

“Therefore, we felt the need for our own, more comprehensive standard.”

Security and motivation for farmers Developing the OWP took about two years.

“We went through intensive rounds of meetings with auditors, wool traders and all of the farmers from our six farms,” reports Stefan Krause, Head of Product at ORTOVOX. “This resulted in more than 60 indicators that will be checked annually by an independent auditor, but even more important was that all participants committed to raising the wellbeing of the sheep to an even higher level.”

Will Bennett, owner of 9 000 Merinos in the eastern highlands of Tasmania, was one of the farmers who participated in the OWP development. He is as enthusiastic about the promise as his German partners: “It means purchase security for producers, fair prices and the motivation to work even more healthily. And I am convinced that consumers appreciate the value of sustainable natural products.”

ORTOVOX at ISPO: Hall A3 416 ortovox.com

With its green landscapes, clean air and modest climate, the nature paradise Tasmania supplies perfect conditions for Merino sheep.

ORTOVOX WOOL PROMISE (OWP) Farm Management Ethical mindset, practices, training of farm managers and employees.

The premium fiber Merino is used in all layers of the ORTOVOX collection.

Animal Welfare Nutrition, infrastructure, health, husbandry, shearing and handling.

Land Management Soil and biodiversity management and environmental awareness.

Slaughter and Transport Humane slaughtering methods and limitation of transport.

The ORTOVOX wool experts on one of their frequent visits.

For farmer Will Bennett, the OWP means more security and motivation.

All indicators are inspected on-site by a third party control body and supported by a legal document.

The aim of this challenging standard: To promote best practices in animal welfare.

suston – 57

PARTNER: ICEBREAKER SPONSORED CONTENT

Jeremy Moon, Founder Icebreaker

A look inside

Transparency encourages scrutiny and accountability. Icebreaker, the natural performance clothing company, champions radical transparency with the launch of its inaugural Transparency Report.

T

he journey made by clothes remains largely unseen. They may have started life in a field and then travelled across a vast network in many countries, through the hands of hundreds of workers, working for dozens of different companies, before reaching our wardrobes. In the apparel industry, the wide use of agents and subcontracting can create invisible supply chains often at the expense of basic human rights.

“It is impossible for brands to ensure respect for human rights, sound environmental practices and product quality without knowing where their products are made and under what conditions,” claims Rob Fyfe, Icebreaker’s Chairman.

Yet of the top 100 global fashion brands, only 32 brands are publishing supplier lists and not one is disclosing raw materials listings.

Responsibility for the ecosystem Icebreaker, the natural performance outdoor clothing company, was founded on the need for greater transparency, 58 – suston

openness and honesty in the clothing industry and to pioneer the availability of nature-based performance apparel.

“We think people should know exactly what they are putting next to their skin, how it was made and all the effects their choice is having,” says Icebreaker’s founder Jeremy Moon.

Transparency enables concerned consumers to make informed decisions, scrutinize brands and build trust.

Icebreaker’s inaugural transparency report gives consumers a detailed overview of the brand's supply chain.

“We know exactly where our fiber comes from and ensure that growers uphold the strongest environmental and animal welfare standards. We know exactly where our garments are being made. We take responsibility for the whole ecosystem,’’ comments Moon.

Long-lasting and direct relationships Icebreaker established long-term contracts with merino wool growers to guarantee ethically sourced merino and economic security for growers.

“We breed our sheep to specifically produce Icebreaker wool, and we can only do that because we have got the confidence that the contracts give us. We have signed a ten-year contract that means our kids have certainty for ten years. Well, that’s unheard of in agriculture,” says Richard Subtil, farmer from Omarma Station in North Otago, New Zealand.

Long-lasting relationships extend to Icebreaker’s factory partners – 65% of Icebreaker’s production volume is still made by the first two partners the brand started working with 13 years ago.

“Making supply chains more and more transparent does not only help to build trust in brands. It also encourages other competitors to make their manufacturing processes transparent, so that the industry as a whole benefits,” Rob Fyfe comments.

“Transparency opens us up to the deepest possible feedback.”

Icebreaker at ISPO: Hall A1 412 icebreaker.com

SPONSORED CONTENT PARTNER: ICEBREAKER

“We think people should know exactly what they are putting next to their skin, how it was made and all the effects their choice is having.”

Jeremy Moon, Founder

Icebreaker Grower Robert Butson & his daughter Kate, Mt Nicholas Station, Queenstown, New Zealand suston – 59

PARTNER: DEVOLD SPONSORED CONTENT

Devold of Norway has signed long-term contracts with 13 selected sheep farms.

From sheep to shop With over 150 years’ experience manufacturing wool clothing, Devold of Norway views wool sourcing as a key to quality. In 2016, the company decided to begin buying merino wool direct from selected sheep farms – and to pay them a visit.

T

he commercial breakthrough for Devold of Norway’s wool clothing came many years ago.

By 1866, thirteen years after the company had been founded in Ålesund on the west coast of Norway, the company developed a knitted woolen fisherman sweater called “Blaatrøia.” It became a huge success aboard the fishing boats on the windy North Sea. Different models of the “Blaatrøia” in a slightly modernized form are still available in today’s assortment, and they 60 – suston

are still made of wool from Norwegian sheep. But from previously having been the dominant manufacturer of woolen garments in Norway, the company has rapidly advanced on the international market in recent years. In 2015 and 2016, sales increased by 50%.

The growth is placing new demands on the company. “Devold’s wool clothing will always uphold the very highest quality,” says company CEO Cathrine Stange.

“That has been our philosophy ever since the company was founded in 1853.

That’s why it’s important for us to have full control over the entire value chain, from the wool to the finished product.”

Get to know the farmers Wool sourcing is therefore a central part of the company’s quality and sustainability work. The coarse Norwegian wool is still used in parts of the collection.

Merino wool – which makes up the largest portion – is purchased from Australia and New Zealand. It is guaranteed to be mulesing-free and high-quality, but in

The company has been awarded for its innovative wool design.

With their own factory, Devold has full control over the value chain.

From sheep to shop and out into the wilderness.

the spring of 2016, Cathrine Stange and her employees wanted to go even further back in the value chain. The company decided to directly contact a number of select sheep farmers instead of just buying wool via auctions.

“We wanted to get to know them properly in order to know that they shared our values. Some of my colleagues and I drove around to the individual farmers one by one. A lot of miles were traveled on country roads around Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand,” says Cathrine Stange with a smile, adding: “We got a great insight into how they worked with sheep farming. Often, they were family farms that had been run for generations. They appeared to have a fantastic passion for both quality and durability.”

More trips followed, and the work led to Devold’s current three-year contract with thirteen select sheep farms in Australia and six in New Zealand.

For the following steps in the value chain of the wool – washing, dyeing, carding, and spinning – Devold uses established companies such as Schneider

in Italy and Schöller in Austria.

“These companies have full control over their production, which takes place in European plants.”

The last manufacturing step is Devold’s own factory in Lithuania, where 300 employees work.

“When a seamstress is finished with a garment, we know that we have control of the quality and our environmental impact all the way back to the sheep farms. This means that our customers also get to know what’s going on – which we know they are asking for more and more.”

A small “From Sheep to Shop” label telling which farm the wool comes from is attached to the garment. Approximately 25% of the collection sold during the fall/winter 2017/2018 has wool from these farms.

“The portion will be increased as soon as new farms are contacted. But we are taking things step by step in order to maintain control,” says Cathrine Stange.

Devold at ISPO: Hall A2 112 devold.com

5

FREEDOMS OF ANIMAL WELFARE

The farms in Devold’s “Sheep to Shop” project need to follow strict animal husbandry requirements.

1. Freedom from hunger or thirst through accessible fresh water and a diet to maintain full health and vigor.

2. Freedom from discomfort by providing an appropriate environment, including shelter and a comfortable resting area.

3. Freedom from pain, injury, or disease through prevention or rapid diagnosis and treatment.

4. Freedom to express normal behavior by providing sufficient space, proper facilities, and company from the animal’s own species.

5. Freedom from fear and distress by ensuring conditions and treatment that prevent mental suffering. suston – 61

For Natasha Skott from BrattlandsgĂĽrden, a holistic farm is about all operating areas on the farm working together.

Due to a holistic management, the sheep are free to wander around and graze wherever the grass is greenest.

62 – suston

SPONSORED CONTENT PARTNER: FJÄLLRÄVEN

Road to ethical wool

Since 2009, Fjällräven has been developing its 100% traceable down scheme known as the Down Promise, today considered to be among the best in the outdoor industry.

Now they want to find a similar solution for wool.

“W

e’ve often bought wool through a fabric manufacturer that has contact with a yarn manufacturer, that has contact with a spinner, that has contact with… you get the picture. So, since we’re not sourcing wool directly from the farm, traceability is always an issue,” explains Christiane Dolva, Operational and Sustainability Manager at Fjällräven, and continues: “But we know that wool can be produced sustainably, and now we’re hoping to take it to the next level.”

2017 witnessed a new milestone for Fjällräven where they did just that, offering a limited collection of simple, 100 percent traceable wool sweaters known as Brattland’s No.1.

Yet the journey here was far from simple. It began two years earlier with Fjällräven puzzling over the first step of sourcing ethical wool, ultimately deciding that the best way to ensure traceability was to take the shortest road from home.

“We started off looking at what kind of sheep we actually have in Sweden. But with most of the traditional sheep breeds, the wool is too coarse and stiff,” recalls Christiane Dolva.

At a holistic farm just outside of Åre, Sweden’s most popular ski resort, Fjällräven found the sheep and partners they were looking for.

“We got in touch with Brattlandsgården, who had a cross-breed between an old Swedish sheep and a merino sheep.

The wool from that breed is really good and it’s adapted for the Swedish climate.”

Next steps in the value chain Leaving the newly-shorn sheep to frolic and with 100 kg wool in tow, they then set off to find a spinner. In keeping with the project’s ethos of simplicity and local, Fjällräven selected a small spinning mill located just 50 km downriver from Brattlandsgård along the shores of the great lake Storsjön. Here, the raw Swedish wool was then washed and spun by Ullforum’s two-person staff in a process that took an entire month.

From Ullforum, 70 kg of fine, spooled yarn was then transported a day’s drive south to Borås, often called Sweden’s textile capital. Here, it was woven into fabric by the family-run weaver Ivanhoe.

In the final sewing stage, Fjällräven encountered an impasse: the skills necessary and the scale required were simply not to be found in Sweden. Thus, the side-goal of local production needed to be set aside in favor of a more suitable partner in Estonia.

Then at last, after two years of ups and downs, the project was able to reveal the fruits of its labor: 76 natural, un-dyed Swedish wool sweaters.

Towards a wool promise Another generation of lambs have since been born at Brattlandsgård and there will be even more wool next year when it comes time for shearing. Yet while cooperation with Brattlandsgård is likely to continue, the ability to scale up is subject to the natural growth rate of the sheep’s wool and the numerous other bottlenecks discovered along the way.

However, establishing best sustainability practices and applying them to Fjällräven’s global wool supply chain had been the primary goal from the start.

In this regard, come what may of the project, Fjällräven considers it a success: “Over the past few years we have learned a lot about wool as a material and about how to source it,” reflects Christiane Dolva.

“We’ve learned a new language basically and we’re now developing a wool standard together with Swedish veterinarians and Brattlandsgården farm.

This will be the basis for our own Wool Promise. We haven’t taken the easiest path to learn more about wool, but without this pilot, we wouldn’t have been able to develop our own Wool Promise that we can stand by.”

Fjällräven at ISPO: Hall A2 202 fjallraven.com suston – 63

EVENT CALENDAR

Sustainability events at ISPO 2018 Meet the experts! At every ISPO, there are seminars, panel discussions and more open to everyone.

SUNDAY, JANUARY 28 11:00 – 12:00 | Hall A4 Greenroom Voice

Transparency Tour with Vaude and Re:Down

13:30 – 14:30 | Press Conference Centre West ARNE STRATE, EOG

What will happen at the EOG Industry Breakfast? ”We will bring together the topics of CSR and sustainability, conservation of nature and activation of the public under the umbrella of “EOG Outreach”, with presentations in a very relaxed atmosphere over a nice breakfast and coffee. We hope to show that engaging in these fields of work is not only the right thing to do, but also valuable from a business point of view.”

64 – suston

EOG Press Conference

14:30 – 15:30 | B32

The Outdoor Novice Market insights presentation

09:30 – 11:00 | B32

10:00 – 11:00 | B32

11:00 – 12:00 | Hall A4 Greenroom Voice

11:00 – 12:00 | Hall A4 Greenroom Voice

State of play for Durable Water Repellents (DWRs) Current and future challenges

Transparency Tour with Icebreaker, Südwolle and Textile Exchange

13:30 – 14:30*

Horizon 2020 – Demeto Closed Loop Recycling Project Introduction for brands interested in participating

14:30 – 16:00 | B32 17:00 – 20:00 Hall A4, ISPO Sustainability Hub

SUSTON RELEASE PARTY together with Greenroom Voice and Brands for Good

Microfibre pollution: Current understanding and future work

16:00 – 17:00 | C12

Apparel Design & Sustainability Consumer research & insights through gaming methodology

16:00 – 18:00 *

Fair Wear Foundation Roundtable FWF Members only

TUESDAY, JANUARY 30 MONDAY, JANUARY 29 08:00 – 09:00 *

EOG Sustainability Reporting Out An update on the current work of the CSR and sustainability team

07:45 (sharp) – 09:00 | Seeblick Restaurant (West Entrance) EOG Industry Breakfast Buffet from 7:30

Embedding effluent treatment best practices throughout the supply chain

Transparency Tour with Ortovox and Bergans

13:00 – 14:00 | B32

The cost and value of supply chain mapping

14:15 – 15:15 | B32

Protecting the outdoors with lower carbon outdoor gear – what’s important, what’s not?

15:30 – 16:30 | B32

Calculating your products’ environmental footprint with the Higg Index

9:30 – 12:30 *

Responsible Down Roundtable

WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 31 11:00 – 12:00 | Hall A4 Greenroom Voice

Transparency Tour with Páramo and Salewa * EOG events that need an invitation.

Interested in participating in closed events in the future? Contact the CSR team of EOG. responsibility@europeanoutdoor group.com

THE SUSTAINABILITY HUB

At the largest outdoor fair in Europe – ISPO Munich – sustainability and social responsibility will be in focus. A large part of Hall A4 is dedicated to events, get-togethers, presentations and committed brands. Go visit a growing, passionate and eco-minded outdoor community!

CIRA RIEDEL, GREENROOM VOICE What is the Transparancy Tour you offer every day?

At our stand in hall A4 we have a poster presentation where the makers behind the sustainability movement in the outdoor industry tell about how they work. This year we have an extra focus on wool and its opportunities and challenges. During the tour, me and my colleague Anna Rodewald tell more about how the different companies work with sustainability and CSR. And each day we invite two or three partners to present their poster themselves.

KAREN HENSEL, SUSTON & NORR MAGAZINE From your magazines’ point of view – why is a fair like ISPO important?

First thing is the people. This is a natural meeting point, where nearly all the industry – suppliers, brands, media etc – get together. Second, our key interest area – sustainability – is getting more and more attention. When colleagues of mine started going to the international fairs over ten years and asked about sustainability, they got very few answers. Today, we feel that it is one of the major topics.

FRANK LOHSE, BRANDS FOR GOOD The name tells a lot about your exhibition, doesn’t it?

Yes, Brands for Good is a platform for sustainable and social products and projects of the sporting goods industry. We work together with small initiatives but also with the “big players” such as Gore-Tex, Arc’teryx, Nitro Snowboards, K2, Volcom or Starboard. We especially want to show the large variety of inspiring and important steps in terms of social responsibility that you find among the outdoor, ski and snowboard brands.

KIM SCHOLZE, ISPO MUNICH What are the highlights from your perspective?

Apart from the great mix of brands, projects and presentations in the Sustainability Hub, I would like to mention the CSR Speakers Corner and the CSR Kiosk. The Speakers Corner will have seating for about 30 people, with lectures going on all days. The CSR Kiosk is the meeting point in Hall A4.

Here, there will also be regular consultations for smaller groups following 3 topics: Communication & Social Media, Retail & Trade, Production & Supply Chain.

JULIEN DURANT, PICTURE ORGANIC CLOTHING How would you describe the soul of your brand?

Ride, Protect & Share. These three words capture the essence of Picture Organic Clothing. Together with my friends and co-founders Jeremy and Vincent we develop products we would have bought as customers. As snowboarders, surfers & outdoor lovers, we want to be involved into these activities with responsible high quality products sure, but following our 100% eco-friendly vision to protect our favorite playground. Picture Organic is our way of life. suston – 65

MINIMIZE YOUR ECOLOGICAL FOOTPRINT!

2017 UNTER ANDEREM AUSGEZEICHNET MIT:

Um der Natur respektvoll gegenüberzutreten, suchen wir ständig die nachhaltigsten Lösungen für unsere Produkte und sorgen dafür, dass die Textilien nach ihrem Gebrauch im Recyclingkreislauf bleiben.

PYUA – technisch, ökologisch und sozial auf höchstem Niveau.

GET IN THE LOOP.

WWW.PYUA.DE

Next issue: Outdoor Show The next printed issue of Suston Magazine will be published right before the Outdoor Show in Friedrichshafen. However, you don’t have to wait until then to collect more news, know-how and inspiration about sustainability within the outdoor community. On our editorial website, we will regularly post both feature stories and shorter news updates.

We welcome pioneering brands to become partners of this project.

Is your company working long-term and systematically towards sustainability? Do you have interesting news or stories that you want to communicate to the European outdoor industry? Want to know more about how Suston plans to bridge the sustainable information gap?

Just get in touch!

STAY UPDATED !

sustonmagazine.com

ILLUSTRATION: NADIA NĂ–RBOM

CONTACT KAREN HENSEL

and learn more about becoming a Suston partner. karen.hensel@ norragency.com +46 8 462 0707, +49 174 371 2871

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BANANAS FROM FINNLAND! The future is going to happen anyway. What we make out of it is up to us.