Gudrun Sjödén: A Colourful Universe

The technicolored story of an inspired, knowledgeable, and principled creator of fashion for women worldwide is brought to vivid life in Gudrun Sjödén—A Colourful Universe. This career retrospective of Swedish fashion designer Gudrun Sjödén (b. 1941) will examine her philosophy, process, and practice through watercolors, clothing, textiles, and archival materials. The exhibition title references a guiding consideration in her designs—color. Sjödén cites French artist Henri Matisse’s bright, brilliant canvases and Mexican painter Frida Kahlo’s eclectic, vibrant personal style as influences. From Sweden, the artistic influence of the Sámi captured Sjödén’s attention early in her career, and she has since discovered that her own maternal line may be traced to the indigenous inhabitants of Sápmi, more specifically the Kola Peninsula. Each of her collections examines a region of the world, and she collaborates with designers who have firsthand understanding of these aesthetics and their significance. In 2019, Sjödén partnered with the mother-and-daughter design team of Delina White and Lavender Hunt, founders of IamAnishinaabe, members of the Minnesota Chippewa Tribe, Anishinaabe Nation, and residents of the Leech Lake Reservation in Northern Minnesota. The floral patterns of Delina’s cross-body bag are unique to the Anishinaabe Nation, and they align with Sjödén’s interest in nature.

Fascinated by folk motifs and flowers, Sjödén has explored the visual culture of Europe, North and South America, and Asia. Recurring motifs are abstracted sunflowers, tulips, and roses—the last being her signature shape.

Sjödén’s work begins as a painting in watercolor, which she then translates into textile design. She received her artistic training in regional textile traditions at Stockholm’s Konstfack University of Arts, Crafts and Design (1958–1963) and draws from this foundational educational experience in each year’s collection. In 1974, she registered her trademark—Gudrun Sjödén AB—which led to Sjödén opening a storefront from which to sell her textiles two years later.

*Note: The European title spelling is intentional, reflecting the artist’s origins.

Bold, beautiful botanicals—floral motifs feature heavily in Sjödén’s work. Here the designer is pictured next to colorful blossoms and in front of a backdrop based on one of her watercolors.

Sjödén’s textile designs begin as watercolors.

Sjödén creates clothes for environmentally conscious consumers. In the mid-to-late 1970s, her collection of sports casuals featured neutral shades. In the 1990s, advancements in organic cotton production led to the increasing use of vegetable dyes, fueling her passion for color and eco-friendly practices. Her 2015 “Green Winter” line, for example, alluded

to nature both in its predominately green palette and in its materials. She made use of dyed organic cotton and recycled down in winter weather outerwear. Sjödén’s labeling system signals to buyers the garment’s certified organic production, firmly proclaiming her brand’s ethos.

Committed to a sustainable and organic method of farming and processing, Sjödén seeks suppliers who source their cotton from Central and South Asia. The contemporary professionalization of organic farming makes achieving these environmental goals possible. Sjödén is keenly aware of the conditions in each growing region and seeks to philanthropically enrich these areas. One year, she donated proceeds from her collection to the Swedish Aral Sea Society, which raises awareness of the Aral Sea’s desertification due to ineffective irrigation channels.

The “Hyska” long shift is from Sjödén’s Spring 2020 collection.

Sjödén’s patterns have been adapted for a line of housewares, like the plate seen above, which echo the colors and patterns of her textile wares.

Since her line’s inception, Sjödén has designed for all ages and body types, encouraging women of every stripe to dress colorfully, boldly, and with style. The lines of her clothes remain largely unaltered over her forty-year career, unifying her brand across the decades and enhancing the timeless quality of her garments. Sjödén has described her collections as including “loose-fitting pants [that] taper at the ankle, while a-line skirts hug the hips and widen at the hem,”—

classic silhouettes flattering to an array of body types. The universality of Sjödén’s designs account for their broad appeal among women.

From her first brick and mortar location on Stockholm’s Regeringsgatan to today’s online marketplace, Gudrun Sjödén— A Colourful Universe traces the trajectory of her life as a fashion designer and entrepreneur.