Spread Your Wings - Gourmet Traveller

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Photography NICOLA EDMONDS

Nestled between three national parks, Falcon Brae Villa is the newest property to join the ranks of New Zealand’s fabled luxury lodges, writes NICOLA EDMONDS.

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time. As the on-site manager during construction of the villa two years ago, he says he was the only one who knew where to find all the levers and switches when the builders went home. Staff at the villa and lodge know that the answer to every guest request is ‘yes’, but he says he enjoys the challenge, “I just have a background in making things up as I go along!”

Hancock and his team also take a hands-on approach to the property’s ecological footprint.

75,000 native trees and bushes have been planted to regenerate what was once bare farmland. Falcon Brae is one of New Zealand’s largest off-grid luxury villas. There is a small ‘sun-farm’, tucked away amongst the grassland nearby, with 90 solar panels supplying all the villa’s energy needs – there is no shortage of luxe appliances or hot water.

There is also no shortage of outdoor experiences or adventures to choose from either.

Throughout New Zealand’s network of luxurious locations, lodge hosts cater to every whim of guests keen to explore. Activities range between regions, from traversing glaciers and volcanoes via helicopter, to reef fishing and bungy jumping.

At Falcon Brae, I find myself leaning towards less intrepid alternatives. To unravel any tension not left at the front door, I opt for an hour-long deep tissue massage. Louise Simpson, the masseur with elfin proportions and the strength of an ox, sets up her table in my room and proceeds to knead me to sleep.

Later, feeling suitably unwound, I take a walk to the river valley through stands of gnarled manuka trees and billowing tussock. This languid stretch of the Motueka River is a particular draw card for guests keen to pit their fly-fishing skills against the large and very wily brown trout found in the clear waters.

I meet up with Michael McMeeken, executive chef at Falcon Brae and Stonefly, on the forest trail behind his cottage. Basket in hand, he’s come for ➤

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (SIGNS).

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t’s not every day I escape to a five-star version of paradise. Here, my private quarters are an entire suite of deliciously airy rooms opening out to a manicured terrace and pool. My dressing room has an avenue of storage space, my zen-toned shower room has its own private vista and there is a gloriously proportioned bath.

For the next few days my world-weary suitcase and I are staying at Falcon Brae Villa, an exclusive eyrie perched amongst three of New Zealand’s most beautiful national parks – Kahurangi, Nelson Lakes and the Abel Tasman National Park.

Everywhere, there are wrap-around views of regal mountain ranges and steep forested valleys.

Several different strands of bird song entwine on the breeze that drifts in through double-height windows. Skylarks soar and native tūı̄ and korimako call to each other across the landscape.

The villa is the newest addition to a host of luxe destinations across New Zealand. Whether private – with the indulgence of sole occupancy – or lodge-style, each is distinctive in design and personality. On offer are tailor-made itineraries, world-class cuisine, and exclusive, spectacular locations; from private beaches to secluded alpine hideaways.

The Falcon Brae style of luxury is intentionally understated. Think high-end ranch meets Swiss ski resort, tempered by the New Zealand-based architects and interior designers chosen to anchor the villa amongst the location’s unique vernacular. The swooping roofs and ceilings reference the arching wingspan of the villa’s avian namesake, while textile tones draw in the surrounding tawny gold tussock, deep emerald pines and tanned farmland.

Jeremy Hancock, operations manager at Falcon Brae, shares the distinct can-do approach of the villa’s team. Hancock was born 3km down the road and is a volunteer fire-fighter in his spare

Skylarks soar and native tūī and korimako call to each other across the landscape.

Clockwise from above: Falcon Brae Villa’s manicured grounds; a sign and misty views at Kahurangi National Park.

PREVIOUS PAGES The villa’s furniture and art showcase local makers and artists; sweeping rooflines reference New Zealand’s native falcon.

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (KAHURANGI).

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Above: Kahurangi National Park.

Left: the villa includes three private suites.

a walk to collect watercress and pine needles, which are plentiful. McMeeken spent the first few decades of his career working for some of America’s leading culinary practitioners, including Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud; then later in London, under Marcus Wareing and Gordon Ramsay at the Berkeley Hotel. He returned to New Zealand when his son was born.

The close scrutiny of customers at his own food cart business proved useful when he became chef of the open-plan, but far more salubrious kitchen at Falcon Brae. The villa kitchen’s homely but contemporary design and layout was already chosen, but the chef took great pleasure in procuring “all the kitchen toys I’ve ever wanted!”

McMeeken’s dishes are inspired by ingredients he has found or those grown or bought from people he knows. “My style is based on nostalgia. I cook from memories, but in a refined manner.” Whether it is corn from street vendors in New York, or a custard square from the local bakery, “I cook from things that I’ve seen, or tasted and enjoyed”.

With the recent scarcity of international guests due to Covid, cooking classes and ‘High Kai’ teas have been added to his repertoire. For lunch I join some local guests to brush up on my BBQ skills.

Falcon Brae’s poolside grill is sleek and expansive, easily accommodating a large haunch of lamb, gently sizzling as we learn how to cook a steak to tender perfection. ➤

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At dinner, McMeeken joins us before each course to explain his creations and is happy for us to quiz his technique. Each course is complemented by a wine selected from the region’s treasure trove of local vineyards. We begin with an award-winning sauvignon blanc – cool and crisply mineral – as we watch the sun set and the mountain ranges slip into shadow.

In keeping with the villa’s focus on all things local, the seared snapper fillets, bought an hour away that morning from Nelson’s seaport, are the most foreign elements on our plates. There are oyster mushrooms from a nearby market, artichokes from the Stonefly garden, a delicious terrine of potatoes grown by our waitress and truffles that were unearthed close by.

Somehow, even after a ravishing dessert of cherry tart, pistachios and a fine curl of chocolate delicately painted with tiny splashes of gold, I feel as though I’m still on the right side of full.

On my last afternoon I decide to take a private food and wine tour, one of the most popular activities on offer at Falcon Brae. My driver and guide, Elissa Menzies, introduces me to the Upper Moutere region, sketching an easy, meandering route through an idyllic landscape of vineyards, hop growers and bucolic farmland.

Our first visit is to Neudorf Vineyards, where Rosie Finn, the family-run business’s “global cheerleader”, walks me through a tasting of some of their award-winning wines. I'm introduced to the startling wonders of a just-released albariño, which surprises me with a salty bite that hints at the varietal’s Spanish seaside origins.

Later we enjoy a palate-cleansing lunch in the cool, eucalyptus-scented shade of Forsters Moutere Hills, before setting out for our destination, the boutique Himmelsfeld Vineyard. Talented viticulturist and raconteur, Beth Eggers, greets us from her tiny ‘wine loft’. Eggers has a particular passion for producing cellar-aged wines, surpassed only by her love for her fine flock of very friendly sheep. I linger over the smoky depths of a glass of Himmelsfeld’s esteemed cabernet sauvignon, as I quietly wonder how I will ever leave. ● luxurylodgesofnz.co.nz

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HUKA LODGE, TAUPŌ The original luxury lodge in New Zealand, Taupō’s Huka Lodge has played host to all manner of world leaders, royals and celebrities looking to escape reality and enjoy the serenity of New Zealand’s native bush. The lodge is said to have been Queen Elizabeth’s preferred accommodation when visiting the Antipodes. Originally set up as fisherman’s quarters nearly 100 years ago, the property is now home to 20 suites and two private retreats, and recently became part of the Baillie Lodges collection, alongside iconic properties such as Longitude 131° at Ulur-­ ­­u and Capella Lodge on Lord Howe Island. hukalodge.co.nz

Above: chef Michael McMeeken collects watercress from the Motueka River. Right: a dessert of cherries, pistachio, sour cream.

Getting there Air New Zealand operates daily flights to Nelson from New Zealand’s three main centres: Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch. Falcon Brae Villa is just under an hour’s drive from Nelson Airport or a scenic 15-minute helicopter flight.

THE LINDIS, AHURIRI VALLEY To experience some of New Zealand’s wildest landscapes, including Franz Josef Glacier, you need to head south. And to experience them in style, you’ll want to set up camp at The Lindis, one of New Zealand’s newest luxury lodges. Located in a glacial valley, the lodge offers high country seclusion, including horse trekking across some of New Zealand’s most remote landscapes. Heli-skiing and glacier walks can easily be arranged to fill your days, while evenings are best spent star-gazing and marvelling at the night sky. thelindis.co.nz

THE FARM AT CAPE KIDNAPPERS, HAWKE’S BAY If food and wine are your raison d’être, The Farm at Cape Kidnappers is the luxury lodge for you. Located on the coastal fringes of the Hawke’s Bay – famous as both the nation’s food bowl and New Zealand’s second largest wine region – Cape Kidnappers makes the most of its location, heroing produce grown in its own gardens and championing local producers. An award-winning, clifftop golf course is just one of the draw cards here, as is The Cape Sanctuary, which is home to a number of endangered native species, including eastern brown kiwi and little spotted kiwi. The sanctuary is closed to the public but lodge guests are able to take part in exclusive sanctuary-based experiences. capekidnappers.co.nz