SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE SPRING/SUMMER 2019
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Jeff vonKaenel E D ITO R
Laura Hillen D E S IG NE R S
Élisabeth Bayard-Arthur, Serene Lusano PH O TO E D IT OR
A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR
Below: Hoppy’s Railyard Kitchen & Hopgarden Photo by ANNE STOKES
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s the temperatures climb into another sizzling season, my resolve to cook at home falls just as fast — I never know what to do in the kitchen once it hits 70 degrees. My instinct is to eat only cold foods, but my skills and culinary ingenuity fall far beneath that lofty goal, and who wants to give up summer barbecue favorites? If you’re anything like me, your most memorable spring and summer dishes may be ones you’ve ordered from a great menu. Trust me, it’s possible to both sip on a chilled drink and munch on something that’s sauteed (and spicy!) without feeling like you’re adding to the summer heat. In this issue of Indulge, some of the best chefs in the Sacramento area have laid out tables filled with the perfect things to beat the heat and keep your taste buds happy in the process. Pick out which seasonal cocktails to start (or end) your night with, become entranced with a plate piled high with fresh greens or pin down which melted dessert you’ll try next when it’s your turn to pick a spot for date night. If nothing else, you’ll be inspired to try putting those summer berries into something other than your infused water — and then know where to go if your meal doesn’t turn out as planned.
LAURA HILLEN
Editor
On the cover: Hop Gardens Photo by REID FOWLER
For advertising information, contact us at 916-498-1234 or snradinfo@newsreview.com 2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE
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JULY 9-14
JULY 23-28
AUG 6-11
index
BOEGER WINERY P AGE 8
P AGE 9
HOPPY’S RAILYARD KITCHEN & HOPGARDEN
P AGE 1 1
P A G E 10
JOURNEY TO THE DUMPLING
LA CROSTA PIZZA BAR P AGE 1 3
Photo by REID FOWLER
HOP GARDENS
CACIO
Below: Hop Gardens
P A G E 12
MIDTOWN’S CANTINA ALLEY
P A G E 14
MY THAI KITCHEN
NIXTACO MEXICAN TAQUERIA
P AGE 1 5
PAGE 16
PHO FRESH
SACRAMENTO RIVERTRAIN
P AGE 1 7
PAGE 18
SUNRISE WAFFLE
THAI
P AGE 1 9
PAGE 20
VALLEJO’S
ZEST VEGAN KITCHEN
P AGE 2 1
P A G E 22 2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE
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Photos courtesy of BOEGER WINERY Words by THEA MARIE ROOD
BOEGER WINERY Find a new summer wine to love
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t’s easy to fall into a rut when it comes to pairing wine: Throw whatever chardonnay is on sale at Safeway in your cart and drink it with dinner, no matter what’s on the menu. However, Northern California is one of the most interesting winemaking regions in the world — we can do so much better! For a quick drive that costs less than the price of a latte, you can travel up the hill to family-run Boeger Winery in Placerville to let new wines excite your palate, like Albariño, Pinot Gris and Cabernet Franc. Boeger is the largest producer of wine in El Dorado County — selling 35,000 cases annually and more than 30 varietals — but that’s not your first thought when you first pull into its long driveway, ambling past hill after hill of gorgeous slopes of grapevines. Instead your eye
is drawn to the historic buildings, remnants of the original Gold-Rushera homestead, and the winery’s picturesque setting — rushing creek, vintage Tonka trucks to play with for the kids, and picnic tables and chairs arranged in convivial groupings. Filled with dark wood, the winery’s tasting room is open daily, and friendly staff will tell you about the winery’s history while handing over tastes of Boeger’s signature and reserve wines. Make sure to savor your mouthful of the winery’s aromatic flagship, Barbera. When you find the wine you love, buy a bottle (or two) and elevate the experience by pairing it with the right summer food. “The Barbera goes well with any dish featuring ripe seasonal tomatoes, from pizzas to a classic caprese salad,” said Lexi Boeger, director of marketing at the winery, and president of the El Dorado Winery Association. “The Sauvignon Blanc — beautifully balanced with citrus aromas, a touch of nectarine and slight tropical and grassy overtones — is a no-brainer for almost any picnic offering, and is a great compliment to artisan sandwiches, cheese and fruit.” Whether you’re a connoisseur or casual imbiber, Boeger makes enjoying wine easy. Visit Boeger on a balmy Friday night from June to August and find your perfect wine for the summer at the winery’s Sunset Sippin’ series: Watch the sunset, listen to live music with your family, and grab dinner from a food truck while picking up the right bottles to pair with the next month’s home-prepared meals. Or check out one of the winery’s many other events, some of which are even welcome to the family dog. You may never drink budget chardonnay again. ●
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2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE
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Historic California with modern-day class PERFECT FOR
Quick getaway on a lazy Saturday AS K ABOU T
WOGA (Sunday yoga with wine!) L I BATI ON COS T
Bottles: $12-$49 Cases: $144-$384 L OCATI ON
Placerville: Carson Road CONTACT
boegerwinery.com 530-622-8094
Photos by ANNE STOKES Words by COREY RODDA
CACIO The Pocket’s hidden gem
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acramento’s newest hot spot is nestled in a sleepy PocketGreenhaven neighborhood. Here, Cacio hums with the rhythm of a European bistro amidst the California landscape. The husband-and-wife team behind Cacio, Katie KinnerKerksieck and Jonathan Kerksieck, are veterans of Sacramento’s culinary and hospitality industry. The two designed Cacio to serve up the same high-quality comfort food that Italian eateries have offered for generations, in a setting that feels just like home. “It is fun to see people come in and, all of a sudden, they see their neighbor,” Jonathan Kerksieck said. “And then someone else will come in and it is the same thing, and it ends up being a big neighborhood reunion.” Cacio, which seats 31, fills up quickly. Tables are typically filled by reservation, and a creamcolored granite bar posts up any walk-in customers. And the petite size of the restaurant is intentional. Katie Kinner-Kerksieck enjoys interacting with each customer who becomes enamored by her husband’s handcrafted Italian fare. Cacio’s food is rich in cheese and taste, but delicate at the same time. The locally sourced menu is always evolving, including both comfortfood staples and dishes that you’d only expect to find in a restaurant out of your budget. “One of the most rewarding things is when people come in and all of a sudden they had all this food and they’ve ordered dessert that they never thought that they would order,” Katie Kinner-Kerksieck said. “They allow you to guide them through the experience, and they leave saying that they can’t wait to come back.”
Cacio’s spring menu is reason enough to make the restaurant a new regular spot. Fresh ingredients all pair exquisitely with Katie KinnerKerksieck’s new favorite wine, Pasqua Family 11 Minute Rosé. Not sure where to start? Try the grilled asparagus with burrata cheese, olive oil and cracked black pepper as a crisp spring starter — a classic at outdoor barbecues but all dressed up for table service. Next, spring pea risotto. The risotto is folded with sharp, creamy tallegio cheese, and the subtly sweet spring peas and silken prosciutto mix in an alchemy that melts in your mouth with each comforting spoonful. Top it all off with a classic Italian dessert, farmer’s market strawberries and sparkling wine zabaglione — an elegant footnote to the entire feast. The clink of silverware against a delightfully empty plate says ciao to Cacio — until the next time. ● VIB E
The sleek and modern style you’ve always envied P E R FEC T F O R
Casual yet intimate date night ASK A B O UT
The perfect wine to pair with your dish C UI SIN E C O ST
Food: $13-$27 Drinks: $8-$14 L OC A T IO N
Sacramento: Greenhaven Drive & Pocket Road CONTACT
caciosacramento.com 916-399-9309
2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE
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Photos by REID FOWLER Words by THEA MARIE ROOD
HOP GARDENS A warm-weather family affair
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ocated smack in the middle of Sacramento’s charming Curtis Park neighborhood, Hop Gardens is easy to find and hard to leave. “The goal from the start was to draw in the community, and in Curtis Park, it’s all families,” said Matt Hawkins, who opened the taproom in spring of 2018 with his father, Pete, and wife, Jeannine, who often comes through with their new baby, Madalen. “So people come in with the baby carrier, the stroller, two dogs. Not only do we have the room
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for everyone, but also stuff for them to do — like cornhole and board games.” And there’s plenty of room for the activities. Hop Gardens has a gigantic, fully enclosed back patio complete with a green wall, white market lights, a big-screen TV and handmade wood tables. Parents can sit and relax, kids can run around and the golden retriever — or the baby — can take a nap. The inside of the establishment is just as fun. A striking redwood
2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE
bar and accent wall complements 24 stainless steel backlit taps. Hop Gardens finds hard-to-get craft beers from all over Northern California and brings them to the local community, so no drive is required to enjoy a great brew. For spring and summer, Hawkins recommends light Pilsners, IPAs or Kölsch-style beers, and is always happy to have customers sample before they decide. But craft beer is only one side of the Hop Gardens name and menu. The other side is the establishment’s always-fresh food. “There are no freezers here,” Hawkins said. “Everything comes in in the morning, gets cooked and sold that day, then we order for the next day.” The entire menu is cooked in Hop Gardens’ impressive Mugnaini wood-fired pizza oven, made in Italy and reassembled by hand in Healdsburg. For example, the Brussels sprouts appetizer is cooked in a cast-iron pan with bacon, lemon and a balsamic reduction, for a result that is both crunchy and savory. However, nothing beats the selection of light and airy Neapolitan pizzas. Try the Prosciutto & Fig — with arugula, fresh mozzarella, balsamic and Parmesan — or the wildly popular Sweet Pig that boasts baby pepperoni with crispy edges, bacon and chili-infused honey on marinara. Need to kill some time while waiting for your dessert pizza topped with seasonal fruit, slivered almonds and fresh whipped cream? Enjoy a round of cornhole with another specialty brew. What’s the hurry? Stay awhile. ●
VI BE
Hip hangout for any age PERFECT FOR
A new twist to your regular game night AS K ABOU T
Family-friendly holiday events CU I S I NE COS T
Food: $6-$16 Drinks: $4-$9 L OCATI ON
Franklin Boulevard & 4th Avenue CONTACT
thehopgardens.com 916-476-3889
Photos by ANNE STOKES Words by NISA SMITH
HOPPY’S RAILYARD KITCHEN & HOPGARDEN Turn that quick stop into a stay
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f you find yourself in an Old Sacramento state of mind, then Hoppy’s Railyard Kitchen & Hopgarden is just the place to start, end or drop by on your next outing. Hoppy’s Railyard Kitchen & Hopgarden has a familiar regional energy: wooden fixtures, regionally sourced ingredients and cheerful staff to greet visitors with a healthy dose of Sacramento charm every day of the week. The restaurant boasts “simple, local, fresh, American” food, as described by Chef Matthew Andrews, a Dixon native. With deals tailored to days of the week, both newcomers and veterans have lots to choose from on the expansive menu. Following a museum visit or preceding an iconic concert at the Golden 1 Center, take a moment to pause over an appetizer of shrimp tacos with friends. Juicy glazed shrimp and cabbage slaw
are nestled in between soft flour tortillas and crowned with crumbles of queso fresco and avocado aioli — awakening the taste buds for more lively flavors to come. For a filling entree, order the halibut piccata. Here, Hoppy’s Railyard Kitchen & Hopgarden allows seafood to shine in the summer months instead of the expected chicken version of the dish. A pan-seared crust of spices balances the fresh buttery fish atop a bed of angel hair pasta. The entire affair is infused with a warm and lightly acidic sauce of capers, lemon and butter — anchoring the fillet in the standard aromas of a comforting dish. For dessert, a classic strawberry rhubarb tart fills that sweet void every dining experience begs for with plump strawberries that burst in your mouth and a sweet crust. Customers will also find the
environment as fulfilling as the seasonal menu. The food arm of Sacramento-famous Hoppy Brewing Company, a house beer is the perfect companion, no matter whether you are stationing yourself on one of the restaurant’s leather couches to enjoy the game, or spreading your party out on the spacious patio — perfect for a hot summer day or breezy night with its misters and fire pit. “We want diners to feel comfortable and like they’re part of
the family,” said Troy Paski, founder. “We’re a community taphouse. That third space that people speak of that’s not home or work.” Don’t forget to top it all off with a dazzling cocktail like the Delta Breeze — vodka, elderflower, cucumber and mint creates the ultimate summer concoction. The crisp cucumber, refreshing mint and delicate elderflower creates a light beverage that launches any outing in a pleasant direction. ● VI BE
Brewpub with an upscale kitchen twist PERFECT FOR
Resting your feet, but with a great beer AS K ABOU T
Comfort Food Wednesdays CU I S I NE COS T
Food: $6-$34 Drinks: $4.50-$16 L OCATI ON
Old Sacramento: 2nd & K CONTACT
hoppy.com 916-451-4677 2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE
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Photos by
ANNE STOKES
Words by THEA MARIE ROOD
JOURNEY TO THE DUMPLING A culinary trip for every type of eater
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ourney to the Dumpling’s specialty may be dumplings, but the restaurant’s expansive menu lends itself to endless dining possibilities. This scope was a deliberate one. “Whenever I travel, I ask my friends for a list of food recommendations,” said Yvonne Nguyen, who co-owns the restaurant with Chris Tan and Justin Yang. “I’d love for Journey to the Dumpling to put Elk Grove on the map by becoming a ‘must try’ on everyone’s list.” Clearly the word is out: On the busiest nights, every table and booth
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in the large restaurant is full — from couples to parties of 12, babies to grandparents — with a line out the door. “Although we like to cater to all crowds, our main focus in on families,” said Nguyen, who is delighted to be back in the heart of her hometown, where she has reconnected with her high school friends and principal, and even her sixth grade teacher. Nguyen has given back to the same community that raised her, feeding every person who walks through her door and joining area fundraisers of her patrons.
2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE
While the community vibe is palpable, the real draw is the food. Every dish is fresh, handcrafted and brought to the table on heaped and steaming platters, bowls and bamboo baskets. And up first come the dumplings. “Growing up, my family made dumplings from scratch every Chinese New Year’s Eve,” said Yang, head chef. “To us, dumplings symbolize happiness, health and wealth.” Once you’ve sampled the legacy inside the restaurant’s famous dumplings, continue your journey with the pork-filled wontons — delicate dough wraps around tender white meat and is doused in a housemade chili oil, lending a warm heat to a burst of flavor finished off with surprising spice. Cool down with a sip of milk tea: iced, creamy and not too sweet. Follow that course with the house specialty: xiao long bao, or steamed snow crab and pork soup dumplings. They come eight to a basket, are subtly seasoned and contain a spoonful of hot broth. Poke a hole with your chopstick, blow, slurp, bite — and definitely repeat. It hasn’t been a true culinary night out without a unique dessert, so dive into the sweet taro rolls. The
crunchy fried dough on the outside, sprinkled with sesame seeds, gives way to the soft, rich filling of taro — a tropical root vegetable. For added sweetness, dip the rolls into thick condensed milk, served on the side. Then take a look at neighboring tables — it’s not too soon to start planning your next culinary adventure here. ●
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Modern style meets cultural authenticity PERFECT FOR
Trying something new AS K ABOU T
Garlic noodles CU I S I NE COS T
Food: $4.50-$14 Drinks: $1.50-$8 L OCATI ON
Elk Grove: Laguna Boulevard & Bruceville Road CONTACT
journeytothedumpling.com 916-509-9556
Photos by ANNE STOKES Words by MATT CRAGGS
LA CROSTA PIZZA BAR Raising the bar on local flavor and fun
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estled at the base of the I Street Bridge, La Crosta Pizza Bar is a bright new spot in West Sacramento — mixing handmade pizzas and fine dining. Already making waves on the Sacramento scene, local foodies are flocking to the latest concept from powerhouse couple Sara Arbabian and Steve Tatterson, the culinary architects behind The Rind. In La Crosta, the husband and wife restaurateurs rethink the local pizza joint concept by infusing Art Deco decor with a responsiblysourced, farm-to-fork ethos. “People should be able to be in a nice and welcoming space without it being stuffy, but still really appreciate the aesthetics and the quality of the food available to them,” Arbabian said. Inspired by the building’s 1938 construction date, La Crosta gives off a vibe that Arbabian calls “casually glamorous”: sweeping drapes, vintage sconces and contrasting geometric patterns that juxtapose exposed wooden beams and original brick walls. All with a cocktail table arcade game, of course. Roughly three-quarters of the menu is sourced locally, so dinner entrees change based on seasonal availability, and the chef’s creative impulses always offer diners something unique. “Our diners are explorative with us,” Arbabian said. “They want us to leverage our skills to change things around and keep it fresh and interesting.” Tables are spaciously arranged around La Crosta’s open kitchen and brick oven where each Neapolitanstyle crust pizza, crafted with flour imported from Italy, passes through. Pizzas come in wide selection: Eaters have a choice between vegetarian-friendly pies or those topped with humanely-raised meats. Each pizza becomes the perfect antidote to a long Sacramento
summer when joined by a cold pint from one of the 11 rotating taps featuring local breweries, such as Berryessa Brewing Company. La Crosta offers more than just exceptional pizza. Starters like the hearty curried meatballs — covered with warm tomato sauce and topped with herbs, a fried shallot ring, crème fraiche and grated Grana Padano cheese — are sure to distract even the most ardent pizza lover. For instance, Chef Gregory Walters’ tender and crispy panseared salmon is a culinary experience — roasted fennel sits atop a sweet Granny Smith apple puree while watercress and a light beurre blanc sauce finishes off the dish. If you tried something new for an entree, dessert offers a second chance to return to pizza with chocolate- and chile-dusted pizza beignets. With a touch of crème anglaise, the fried pizza dough takes on the flavor of Mexican hot chocolate with a whiff of spirits when the warm beignet hits the bourbon caramel dipping sauce. ●
VIB E
Fave hang for matured pizza-loving arcade gamers P E RFEC T F O R
A night out with the crew AS K A B O UT
Gluten-free crusts C UISIN E C O ST
Food: $5-$28 Drinks: $8-$42 L O C A T IO N
West Sacramento: 3rd & C CO N T A C T
lacrostapizzabar.com 916-389-0372
2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE
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Photos by ANNE STOKES Words by MATT CRAGGS
MIDTOWN’S CANTINA ALLEY Find a little bit of Mexico right in Sacramento
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own a Midtown alley, an unassuming brick building with sliding wooden doors offers a Mexican holiday without ever having to leave Sacramento. “We wanted it to be much more than a restaurant,” Max Archuleta, co-owner of Midtown’s Cantina Alley, said. “We wanted our guests to experience Mexico.” A large portion of that experience is the culture delivered by the openair cantina through its distinct and commanding art. Murals, a local artist’s Oaxacan photography, blackand-white movies and lucha libre wrestling masks all subtly transport guests south of the border. In fact, Cantina Alley is just like a place you would find in Mexico — its owners — where there are vibrant businesses down corridors, streets and alleys that someone wouldn’t think were there. Once inside, Cantina Alley offers vacation-worthy small plates and drinks, such as the Aztiki Pina — a whole pineapple that begs to
be photographed and is filled with a dangerously sweet and smooth frozen piña colada. The bar displays more than 30 types of mezcal, more than 40 types of tequila, and national and craft beer from Mexico on tap and in cans. While the nights bring a younger crowd and Midtown bar-hoppers, it’s not all about the drinks — on weekends, the kitchen cooks up street food until 2 a.m. Find proof of the chef’s specialty in Baja cuisine in one of the restaurant’s most popular small plates — Baja fish tacos. Wrapped in a house-made corn tortilla, fried red snapper is piled high with shredded cabbage, white sauce, and tropical and cachanilla salsas. Heavy on flavor and light on the wallet, Cantina Alley accepts dollars and pesos. It’d be advisable to order a taco with every drink if only the menu didn’t entice with other selections, such as elote. Smothered
V IBE
Little Mexico in a big way PE RF E CT F OR
Tacos, tacos, tacos! A S K A BO U T
Vegan dishes CU IS INE COS T
Food: $3.50-$10 Drinks: $3-$49 LO CA TIO N
Midtown: Jazz Alley (J & 24th) CO NTA CT
cantinaalley.com 833-232-0639
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2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE
in house crema fresca and topped with cotija cheese and spices, this tender corn-on-the-cob-on-a-stick is messy fun and irresistible down to the final kernels lingering on the tray. The restaurant’s pozole verde is an example of how Cantina Alley puts forward clean, crisp flavors with California produce quality. A hominy stew, the dish pairs chicken, roasted
poblanos with tomatillo and packs the perfect amount of heat. “We hope to bring that Little Mexico feeling to the heart of Midtown,” said Art Aguilar, co-owner. Which is why you’ll feel like you just returned from visiting our neighbors to the south after just one Midtown’s Cantina Alley dish, even if you haven’t moved an inch. ●
Photos by ANNE STOKES Words by THEA MARIE ROOD
MY THAI KITCHEN The art of good food
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alking into My Thai Kitchen is like entering an artistic vision, from each dish exiting the kitchen to the authentic decor that provides a warm welcome. In fact, the entire restaurant is easy on the eyes: Deep red walls, sage green booths and dark wood tables offset real lilies floating in water. The open bar and kitchen engage your other senses, too — the clink of ice cubes, the whoosh of a tap, the tantalizing smell of meat and spices cooking. But the real masterpiece is on your plate. Each dish prepared with time and patience is a tiny work of art, full of deliberate design elements and vibrant colors. Start with the Thai iced tea — a milk tea from the region with cream on top. Mix it together until it turns a “pretty orange,” your server will tell you — which it quickly does. Sweet, creamy and highly caffeinated, it
perks up the brain like a shot of espresso and sets you up to pay attention to the rest of the meal. “Everything is fresh,” said Joy Palmer, who’s owned My Thai Kitchen since 2013. “And everything is handcrafted.” A good example? The vegan and gluten-free fresh spring rolls — rice paper filled with green leaf and iceberg lettuce, carrot, cilantro, green kale and mango. The cold, crunchy vegetables get a dash of spicy sweetness from the warm, house-made peanut sauce, and are nothing short of beautiful as they come arranged in a semi-circle on the rectangular white plate. Next up: Curry Your Way. An especially good combination is yellow curry, pumpkin, broccoli, carrots, cauliflower and potatoes with special brown rice. The curry comes in a serving bowl and is filled with big chunks of vegetables,
cooked lightly to give them a nice bite. It’s fun to spoon each bite over the rice, which is nutty and soft but substantial, able to stand up to being soaked in the slightly sweet, slightly spicy curry. Tailor your entree to your preferred style of spice, protein, vegetable, rice variety and even method of preparation — try ordering as Wok It Your Way or Noodles Your Way. Finally, a dessert that will have you whipping out your camera before diving in: sticky rice with mango. It comes shaped like a heart, both the blue — yes, blue! — mound of sweet rice that is covered in coconut milk and sesame seeds, and the perfectly sliced, perfectly ripe mango framing it. ●
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Authentic furnishings that feel like nobility PERFECT FOR
Stopping for lunch amidst Saturday shopping AS K ABOU T
Pineapple fried rice CU I S I NE COS T
Food: $7-$16 Drinks: $2.50-$16 L OCATI ON
Roseville: Eureka Road CONTACT
eatatmythaikitchen.com 916-781-7811
2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE
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Photos by
ANNE STOKES
Words by ZOE MANZANETTI
NIXTACO MEXICAN TAQUERIA ‘Fresh made’ takes on a whole new meaning
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hen you think “destination restaurant” you may not think of Roseville, but perhaps you should — and you should also think of Nixtaco Mexican Taqueria. Nixtaco was inspired by the hometown of owners Cinthia Martinez and Patricio Wise — Monterrey, Mexico. Nixtaco is now a “destination” close to home for the owners, and a destination to share. When you walk in, you’ll immediately notice the restaurant’s unique design: straight lines, crisp whites contrasted by bold yellows and pinks. It’s inspired by a favorite Mexican architect and Nixtaco’s desire to reflect how it views the Sacramento area: modern and industrial. These details of inspiration don’t end at the design: Nixtaco’s tortillas are becoming famous in the region for their unique authenticity. “Nixtamal is the name given to the freshly cooked corn that is used to make masa dough for the tortillas,” Wise said.
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Each tortilla is made fresh inhouse. Although it adds extra work to the culinary load, which is why most Mexican restaurants opt for pre-made, Nixtaco takes pride in the handcrafted result. Nixtaco’s own name is inspired by the process, melding “nixtamal” with “taco,” two culinary things Nixtaco has become known for. “Every single ingredient has to be amazing so you can have an amazing product at the end,” Martinez explained. Place your order and take a seat in the outdoor patio, an oasis for anyone looking to relax, eat and hang out. Waiting for your meal is nothing but soothing as the misters cool the summertime heat and a spicy Nixtaco margarita cools your mouth. Start your culinary trip to northeastern Mexico with queso fundido con chorizo, which leaves traces of tradition on your tongue. Next, load up your table with a platter full of tacos. Order a couple
2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE
of everything, and mix and match your flavors and proteins. Begin with some classic house tacos like short rib and chicarrón. Then select a couple of signature tacos like octopus, where you can taste the freshness of the ocean, or the tender barbacoa. Once you’ve had your fill of tacos, the perfect conclusion can’t come in anything other than a plate of warm churros to share with your friends. Don’t forget to dip and drizzle with the sugary sauce to top it all off. Unlike an expensive faraway resort across the seas, leaving Nixtaco won’t give you a pang of loss — its Roseville address means it’s always right down the road. ●
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Open like an airy patio indoors PERFECT FOR
Taco Tuesday AS K ABOU T
Vegan menu CU I S I NE COS T
Food: $3.50-$11 Drinks: $7-$12 L OCATI ON
Roseville: Cirby Way & Rocky Ridge Drive CONTACT
nixta.co 916-771-4165
Photos by REID FOWLER Words by ZOE MANZANETTI
PHO FRESH So vegan good
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t’s possible to answer a craving for noodles but still eat clean and healthy when you pick up lunch or dinner at Pho Fresh — one of the only Vietnamese restaurants in the Sacramento area to offer expansive fresh dining options for both vegan diners and meat eaters. And regardless of what you usually order off a menu, it’s the restaurant’s vegan options that will have you coming back for more. “It was the vegan community that propelled us because originally we were just a traditional Vietnamese restaurant,” said John Tran, named 2018 Chef of the Year at the Sacramento Vegan Chef Challenge. “But after learning about veganism and health, we changed everything to be healthy.” Introduce yourself to the Pho Fresh way of dining with an order of the restaurant’s recently debuted traditional-style avocado roll, so hearty with greens, bean sprouts, mint Vietnamese noodles — and of course, avocado — you won’t notice it’s meatless.
For those who want a bit of old-fashioned protein in their entree, continue on with the lemongrasssauteed colossal shrimp — each shrimp so tenderly cooked and paired perfectly with sautéed green and red bell peppers and green onions atop a garlic rice bowl that you’ll understand why the restaurant is becoming known for its commitment to high-quality dishes. Because each dish is carefully prepared exclusively with fresh ingredients, it serves each diner well to realize it may take a few more minutes for selections to exit the kitchen than the nearest fast food joint. The dedication put into each dish is a point of pride at Pho Fresh because good food takes time — and no matter if a dish has meat or other forms of protein, it receives the same amount of care to match the high expectations of each diner. In fact, any innovative vegan dish you may order out of Pho Fresh’s kitchen will embody the same freshness that has seen the restaurant rack up a number of awards, like winner of the 2018 Sacramento Vegan Chef Challenge and first place in the Great Sacramento Vegan Burger Battle. Consider pairing your proteinpacked entree with a light drink, like the mango strawberry mojito with soju, to successfully counteract the Sacramento heat. Once you’ve cooled off, experience the light crunch of dessert that can only come with Pho Fresh’s roasted coconut tofu ball. Pho Fresh is known for large portions that fill each plate, really giving each diner their money’s worth. However, in sharp contrast to how one can feel leaving other tables with heaped plates, you’ll leave Pho Fresh refreshed, filled and healthy. ●
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Casual dining with a friendly atmosphere PERFECT FOR
Healthy and fresh cooking, vegan or not! AS K ABOU T
The secret menu CU I S I NE COS T
Food: $6-$17 Drinks: $1-$4.5 L OCATI ON
Rancho Cordova: Coloma Rd. & McGregor Drive CONTACT
phofresh2u.com 916-706-2523
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Photos by REID FOWLER Words by MATT CRAGGS
SACRAMENTO RIVERTRAIN Sip the rails with new brews in old-fashioned comfort
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t the first, gentle jolt of the diesel engine, sporadic cheers are raised alongside stouts and IPAs as the Beer Train begins to move down the rails. One of a dozen different themed excursions on the Sacramento RiverTrain, the Beer Train offers tastings of Northern California brews while passengers glide beside the Sacramento River in comfortable, old-fashioned luxury. “We’re trying to keep the spirit of the train alive, touching on the class and elegance of the railroad days
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gone by,” said Debra Duran, vice president of valley operations for Sacramento RiverTrain. Departing from West Sacramento, excursions on the Sacramento RiverTrain move along at a leisurely speed of around 15 miles per hour, typically making their 28-mile roundtrip to Woodland and back in around three hours — the perfect amount of time for a charming escape. For those who’ve booked a ticket on the Beer Train, the relaxing
2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE
pace allows for a few pints and the chance to talk shop and suds with representatives from breweries such as Drake’s Brewing Co. and Knee Deep Brewing Co. Guests wander between tasting stations or relax in recently refurbished 1950s cars under sconces and updated interiors in this intimately-sized beer festival. Even though the cars are airconditioned to stave off the summer heat — it’s the only Sacramento railroad with climate-controlled cars — many people flock to the open-air cars. The gentle rush of air chilled by the nearby river and music from a live band gives each cold sip in the open air an unmistakable summer feeling. The RiverTrain’s excursions vary in focus. Emboldened passengers of the Beer Train and Old Vine Express may find themselves in the middle of a cha-cha slide dance contest, while a Murder Mystery Train breeds delightful suspicion amongst riders. Passengers from other train experiences may disembark on a quick stop at Elkhorn Station into the middle of a Wild West gunfight or pumpkin patch adventure. For Sacramento foodies looking to pair a good bite with a great experience, some excursions come complete with a locally-sourced, three-course meal. Others offer a
box lunch and snacks alongside more lively activities, but always appropriately paired with the experience. Whatever the theme — from a sunset dinner to a murder mystery — Duran noted that the Sacramento RiverTrain is a chance to make memories and spend time with family and friends surrounded by old-fashioned style and service. There’s no better way to travel than the railroad’s bygone style, with a cold drink and new friends. ● VI BE
Periodically perfect for the theme of each excursion PERFECT FOR
Your next Sacramento “staycation” AS K ABOU T
Bringing your dog! TI CKET COS T
$45-$100 L OCATI ON
West Sacramento: N. Harbor Boulevard & Riverbank Road CONTACT
sacramentorivertrain.com 800-866-1690
Photos by REID FOWLER Words by ZOE MANZANETTI
SUNRISE WAFFLE The diner where everybody knows your name
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he best way to start every day is with a good breakfast, and Sunrise Waffle is sure to deliver. The warm, yellow walls greet you with the comfort of sunshine and the staff welcomes you with the hospitality of family — the perfect vibe for those who have yet to order their morning coffee. The diner mimics a 50s style that inspires an old-fashioned nostalgic return to classic American food, and classic American service. The establishment’s comforting experience is also built from the close connections of the staff and customers. Some of the staff members have called Sunrise Waffle home for nearly 30 years, and many of the customers are regulars. “Some of our adult customers we’ve known since they were kids,” explained owner Michael Muhareb. Muhareb noted that even after moving the restaurant to its new
location on Folsom Boulevard, many of his customers followed the breakfast diner, and as you sit, you begin to understand why. The open-floor plan of the diner provides ample space for both large groups and more intimate meals, making Sunrise Waffle an ideal spot for a shared breakfast or brunch between just a dear friend or your whole family. And the food is homey enough to be a breakfast you would lovingly prepare in your own kitchen. You can never go wrong by ordering one of the restaurant’s eponymous waffles, which mixes various ingredients straight into the batter. Once perfectly golden, whipped cream is spiraled on top. If you demand eggs for breakfast, pair the soft yolks of the eggs Benedict with crisp, savory homestyle potatoes. Wash each bite down with fresh orange juice.
No matter if you order from the breakfast or lunch side of the menu, your meal is sure to be relaxed — Sunrise Waffle isn’t the sort of place you come to be rushed; diners can take plenty of time to eat each large dish. The restaurant is open from 5 a.m. to 3 p.m. every day of the week, and staff will come by often to make sure you and your party are doing well — both in regard to the meal and life beyond the restaurant walls. Muhareb and his staff truly enjoy your company. “The social aspect is what I love about the restaurant. Being around customers,” Muhareb said. “I can’t imagine doing anything else.” Every meal at Sunrise Waffle leaves you full, both in stomach and soul — and you know you’ll be returning to Sunrise again soon. ●
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Classic go-to diner PERFECT FOR
A hangover breakfast to hit the spot AS K ABOU T
The children’s or senior citizen’s menus CU I S I NE COS T
Food: $4-$11.75 Drinks: $2.75-$4 L OCATI ON
Rancho Cordova: Folsom Boulevard & Coloma Road
2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE
CONTACT
916-631-8888
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Elegant and bright PERFECT FOR
A craving for authentic AS K ABOU T
Vegan stock sauce CU I S I NE COS T
Food: $3-$16 Drink: $2.50-$3.50 L OCATI ON
East Sacramento: H & 47th CONTACT
thaiatsac.com 916-942-9008
Photos by ANNE STOKES
THAI
Words by COREY RODDA
Get the royal treatment in every bite
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ituated in cozy East Sacramento, it’s easy to feel transported to a place that is both local and global when you take a seat at THAI. THAI stands for The House of Authentic Ingredients. A passion project of couple Anchasa “Ann” and Suvijak “Tee” Devahasdin, savvy Sacramento eaters are probably already familiar with the pair’s other endeavor — Midtown’s Thai Canteen. Ann and Tee Devahasdin met in Davis in 2010, but both are native to Bangkok. THAI is an embodiment of the calling to replicate the flavors of Thailand that can’t be tracked down elsewhere in Sacramento. As a result, even the smallest ingredients are imported straight from Thailand, including young green peppercorns, aun chan (butterfly pea flower), lotus extract, Thai chili, Thai brown jasmine rice, Thai riceberry rice and much more. “We import so many of our ingredients and some people might
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ask why we need a little piece of herb to complete a recipe, but if it isn’t there, the food tastes different,” said Ann Devahasdin. THAI lured award-winning chef Wong Jankheun from his catering empire in Bangkok to Sacramento with the promise that at THAI, he could let his imagination run wild. As a result, the menu is rife with creative spins on Thai classics. For instance, the tom kha tod meatballs are Jankheun’s creation — dreamed up as a finger-food version of the creamy, herb-infused tom kha coconut soup. “He marinates the chicken breast meat with all of the herbs in the tom kha soup — lemongrass, coconut and galangal — and then he batters it and deep fries it,” Tee Devahasdin explained. “It is crispy outside and then you bite it and it has the flavor of soup.” A little bit of tom kha soup is served on each meatball — making each bite melodic and moist.
2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE
Also featured are royal Thai recipes that Tee Devahasdin’s grandmother would cook for him. Unlike home-style Thai cuisine, royal Thai cuisine is meticulously prepared, always seasonal and balanced. As a result, the menu at THAI rotates according to season. THAI has an elegant bohemian vibe bursting with sunlight, succulents and mid-century leather seats that you can sink into while sipping a color-changing aun chan iced tea. Served chilled with a hint of cane sugar, the drink transitions from turquoise to purple once lime is squeezed into it and houses butterfly pea flowers which resemble turquoise-tinged violets. And don’t forget dessert: Order a ramekin of creamy sunset-hued Thai Tea panna cotta or Thai Tea creme brulee that makes it easy to forget you haven’t wandered into an actual Bangkok locale. ●
Photos by ANNE STOKES Words by MATT CRAGGS
VALLEJO’S Family tradition lives on
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n 1983, the Vallejo family opened their first restaurant, Vallejo’s Deli, and brought authentic Jalisco-style cooking based on family recipes — like mulitas — to the Sacramento region. Though the deli closed in 1992, brothers Art and Efrain Vallejo — descendants of a renowned California general — carry on the Vallejo’s tradition at two Vallejo’s restaurant locations in the heart of downtown Sacramento. “It’s like going to Mexico and eating at a little, local restaurant,” Art Vallejo said. “We want to keep it that way, we want to stay the way we started.” And so they have, with much of the menu still using recipes their mother, Felicitas Vallejo, served when the brothers were young boys, like Mar y Tierra Jambalaya. For the brothers, eating at the restaurant is like sitting around their family table, and it’s a feeling they seek to share. During a busy lunch, government suits and construction vests alike fill tables amidst the neon beer signs, old photos and curios that have taken up residency in the restaurants over the decades. Servers weave throughout, delivering large portions of no-nonsense comfort food — carnitas, rice and beans, and plate-sized quesadillas stuffed with marinated, grilled chicken and just enough Jack cheese to hold it all together — often greeting guests by name or with a hug. “Our loyal customers have been with us since day one,” Efrain Vallejo said. “They remember more about the deli than I do.” Because many of Vallejo’s chefs and staff have been with the restaurant for decades, their influence on the menu can be as strong as the Vallejo family’s. For instance, when a customer asked the kitchen to whip up a dish
that went with their bloody mary — best in town, Art Vallejo noted — the chef combined the house-made mix with cocktail sauce to create the Puerto Vallarta–inspired Vallejo’s Mexican Jambalaya. Tossed with mahi-mahi, shrimp, chicken, onions, carrots and zucchini, the sauce is slightly sweet with the unmistakable — though pleasantly surprising — spice and heat of a bloody mary. Not to be outdone, the bar uses tamarind from the kitchen to make a puree for their new Margarita de Tamarindo — a tangy, slightly sour spin on Vallejo’s popular margaritas. Some of the classics remain authentically so. Take the housemade flan — expertly baked in a water bath so it is still dense, but not heavy. Finished off with a drizzle of slightly bitter chocolate sauce the dish has depth but isn’t too sweet. Like much of the fare at Vallejo’s, Art Vallejo offered up a family secret to make each flan slice perfect — use a crunchy tortilla chip with every bite. ● VIB E
Cozy Mexican cafe P E R FEC T F O R
A bursting burrito on a busy day ASK A B O UT
Lunch specials C UI SIN E C O ST
Food: $2.75-$23 Drinks: $4-$12 L O C A T IO N S
Downtown: 11th & O Downtown: 4th & S CONTACT
vallejosrestaurant.com 916-443-8488 or 916-498-1744
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Photos by ANNE STOKES Words by NISA SMITH
ZEST VEGAN KITCHEN A breath of fresh vegan
E V IBE
Charming, casual bistro in a secret corner of the world PE RF E CT F OR
Organic unprocessed foods A S K A BO U T
The Prana Bowl CU IS INE COS T
Food: $4-$12 Drinks: $3-$8 LO CA TIO N
Rocklin: Fairway Drive & Sunset Boulevard CO NTA CT
zestvegankitchen.com 916-824-1688
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ntry into Zest Vegan Kitchen is like stepping into a world cultures fair: Warm curry swirls through the nostrils, reggae music inspires movement amidst colorful tables, and a wall of sustainable bamboo and glass dishware greets guests at the counter. With an entirely plant-based menu and cuisine that crosses continents, Zest Vegan Kitchen offers food that is just as exciting and drool-inducing as it is healthy. “We really embrace a lot of different cultures in our food, not just Mexican or Thai, for example,” said Angelique Miller, owner of the establishment. “Yet I strive to keep our food comfortable and recognizable.” Kick off your meal with avocado toast — Zest breathes new life into the vegan staple by topping crusty multi-grain bread with a creamy pesto before adding slices of buttery avocado and red pepper flakes (for an extra kick).
2019 SACRAMENTO AREA DINING GUIDE
Or, munch on Zest’s chipotle tacos — guaranteed to recharge you whether you’ve just wrapped up a successful shopping day at the Roseville Galleria or want to ditch meal prep for the night. Organic corn tortillas receive a heaping amount of smoky chickpeas with caramelized onions and red peppers. Colorful cabbage slaw adds depths of flavor while fragrant cilantro and a drizzle of cashew lime cream further brighten the experience. Formerly operating as Baagan, Zest has honed its focus in its rebrand — becoming accessible to everyone, not just communities who are already primarily vegan. Diners can scan the restaurant’s library of cookbooks and health food magazines while they enjoy their food, browse the snacks and gifts on its market shelves, or grab something quick and nourishing from the “grab and go” food section. Each aspect of Zest shows the support offered to customers who want more options for living healthy. “We are more than just vegan,” Miller said. “It’s an emphasis on clean, vibrant and natural — super fresh, organic.” That accessibility shines in menu selections like the Golden Monkey Warrior smoothie. House-made pecan milk is blended with anti-
inflammatory spices, like turmeric and cardamom with ripe bananas. Its bright and cheery color ropes in even the pickiest eaters, and the sweetness is authentic — without sugar crashes or health risks. Round it all off with one of Zest’s flavors of raw vegan cheesecake. The velvety base rests on a crunchy buttery crust with luxurious syrups available for the choosing to accent your slice. It effectively wraps up Zest’s entire message in a single bite: Healthy eating can include all of your favorite meals and flavors, and your wellness journey can truly be fun, easy and surprisingly delicious. ●
h ip S r e b m e m r a e y a S ig n u p f o r 9 1 0 2 / 0 3 / 4 S d n e ! n fee f o r Z e r o in it ia t io
916.442.3927 | www.capitalac.com | conveniently located at the corner of 8th & p