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September 2026 Volume 53 | Number 9

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A FRESH SEASON OF BEAUTY

New ideas shaping the future of personal care

What’s hot in hair longevity science

Inside Wrapsa – a leading pharma contract manufacturer

Coschem hosts a Secret Ingredient Luncheon

Contents www.pharmacos.co.za

6 News

Quadpack launches innovative skincare packaging Syntegon invests in a new OSD Customer Centre

8 Pharma Focus/Contract Manufacturing

22 Ethnic Care/Textured Hair

Measurement technology to support compliance in manufacturing Inside Wrapsa: SA’s one-stop pharmaceutical manufacturer

ETERWELL HAIR brings longevity science to hair care Could wetting be the next frontier in hair longevity?

26 Aerosols & Deodorants

Dual-action technology for odour control and sweat reduction Leading brand brings skincare innovation to underarm care

14 Personal Care Solutions

Explore Exopacif MPF SF – EOC’s new microplasticfree opacifier The local clean beauty landscape and natural product trends High-performance peptide blends for modern personal care Düllberg Konzentra visits the perfume expo, Esxence 2026

30 Packaging

Minebea Intec discusses the true cost of quality inspection technology

32 Association News

Highlights of Coschem’s Secret Ingredient Luncheon Celebrating the latest SAAFFI-Wits course graduates

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2026

image: gettyimages

FROM THE EDITOR

The team EDITORIAL EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@media24.com LAYOUT & DESIGN: Andipha Nkoloti PRODUCTION CONTROLLER: Mandy Ackerman

Welcome to a fresh season of beauty

COVER IMAGE: gettyimages

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pring has arrived, and with it a fresh edition of Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review, which mirrors the season of renewal. Our cover story, a fresh season of beauty — new ideas shaping the future of personal care, sets the tone for an issue filled with innovation and fresh perspectives for your personal care formulations. You can read about developments in the local clean beauty landscape, a new microplasticfree opacifier from EOC, and highperformance peptide blends redefining skin and eye care. In our pharma focus, we go inside Wrapsa, one of South Africa’s premier contract manufacturers, and examine the measurement technology underpinning GMP and SAHPRA compliance. This edition also turns the spotlight on textured hair, featuring breakthroughs in senolytic hair longevity science and a nature-derived superwetting agent, also for hair longevity.

In aerosols and deodorants, dualaction odour control and a new range of skincare-infused deodorants take centre stage, while our packaging feature weighs up the true cost of quality in inspection technology. This month, we also bring you highlights from Coschem’s Secret Ingredient Luncheon and celebrate the graduates of the SAAFFI-Wits Flavour & Fragrance Technology Course.

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JOHANNESBURG OFFICE Building 13, The Woodlands Office Park, AI DISCLAIMER At Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review, we employ AI software as part of our editorial workflow to assist with research processes and content refinement. While AI technology enhances our efficiency and capabilities, we maintain our commitment to journalistic integrity through rigorous human oversight. All content generated or refined using AI tools undergoes thorough review and fact-checking by our professional editorial team. This human-led approach allows us to leverage innovative technology while upholding the quality and reliability our readers expect and deserve. Should you have any concerns regarding our use of AI please send an email to abby.vorster@media24.com.

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Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by Novus Print, Cape Town Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

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NEWS

New Mahina tottle addresses limitations of traditional packaging Quadpack is rethinking the application of lightweight skincare formulas, by addressing typical pain points such as imprecise dosing, product waste and messy application. With the Mahina tottle, beauty packaging manufacturer and provider Quadpack transforms an everyday format into a desirable skincare tool. Designed for low-viscosity formulas, the tottle is equipped with a cold-touch, roll-on applicator, which enhances performance and delivers a sensory user experience. Dosage is targeted and controlled, while application is mess-free, thanks to an on/off locking system. The pack’s modular design allows easy separation for refilling and recycling. Mahina is a lunar deity in Hawaiian mythology. The tottle’s metal ball delivers immediate freshness, like a cool touch of moonlight. The formula is gently massaged onto the skin, which promotes formula absorption in a comfortable selfcare gesture. The packaging is not just functional; it becomes something users want to use daily. “We introduced Mahina Tottle to rethink how lightweight skincare formulas such as oils and serums are applied, addressing the limitations of traditional packaging,” explains senior category specialist, Mateia Crippa. “The modular and refillable design answers the growing need for more sustainable, scalable and premium packaging platforms.”

The tottle’s metal ball delivers immediate freshness, like a cool touch of moonlight

The Mahina tottle combines a controlled roll-on delivery system with a cooling metal applicator

SEPTEMBER 2026 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Cleanrooms, a powder laboratory and state-of-the-art equipment create ideal conditions for trials with capsules and tablets

Syntegon opens new OSD Customer Centre in Fellbach Syntegon has opened its new OSD Customer Centre in Fellbach, following the move from Waiblingen. Cleanrooms, a powder laboratory, and state-of-the-art equipment create ideal conditions for pharmaceutical and nutraceutical trials involving solid oral dosage forms (OSD) such as capsules and tablets. From lab to production, customers benefit from extensive knowledge transfer, helping accelerate the time-to-market of new pharmaceuticals and dietary supplements. “With a double-digit million investment in Fellbach, we are sending a strong signal in support of our growth strategy and creating an environment that aims to always be one step ahead,” says Thomas Hartkämper, executive vice president pharma solid at Syntegon. “The OSD Customer Centre supports customers and employees in taking formulation and manufacturing processes to a new level.” Spanning 7 900m2, the customer centre and production facilities have moved even closer together. “Short distances, digital processes and a future-proof infrastructure create the framework for genuine collaboration on an equal footing,” says site manager, Markus Reitz. Within the first few months after the move from Waiblingen, delivery reliability has already increased by 10% thanks to improved crossdepartmental collaboration, agile work methods, and greater efficiency. The OSD Customer Centre offers pharmaceutical and nutraceutical developers and manufacturers an ideal location to test future formulations or existing products on the production equipment. Capsule fillers and sealers as well as tablet presses are available for this purpose in Fellbach. The successful OSD Academy will be held in Fellbach, in addition to Schopfheim. While the event in Schopfheim, from 20 to 22 October will focus on coating, the first session in Fellbach is scheduled for 2027.

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PHARMA FOCUS/CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

Measurement technology to support compliant contract manufacturing South African contract manufacturing organisations occupy one of the most exposed positions in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics value chain. They must satisfy not only their own quality systems, but also the standards of every client whose products they produce while remaining audit-ready at any time. wetted materials and that integrate through standardised hygienic adaptors compatible with EHEDG, 3-A and Tri-Clamp fittings without the extensive rework of existing vessels.

BUILT FOR THE REALITIES OF THE PROCESS

n recent years, the inspectorate of the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA) has tightened its scrutiny. The regulator is also formalising its alignment with the Pharmaceutical Inspection Co-operation Scheme and international harmonisation bodies, considerably shrinking the margin for measurement error on the plant floor. For contract manufacturers, this raises a practical question that goes well beyond paperwork: can the instrumentation on a reaction vessel, autoclave or filtration skid deliver the data integrity a Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) dossier demands? Increasingly, the answer depends on the sensors doing the measuring.

COMPLIANCE MEETS THE PROCESS SAHPRA’s Guide to GMP for Medicines requires validated standard operating procedures, equipment qualification and

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calibration records, and complete batch documentation, all of which must withstand scrutiny during routine or for-cause inspections. Behind every one of those records sits a physical measurement: a tank level during a mixing step; a pressure reading in an autoclave; a point-level check that prevents a dry run or an overfill. If the instrument generating that data cannot be trusted, cleaned or sterilised without compromising its accuracy, the compliance chain breaks at its first link. VEGA’s measurement technology has found strong relevance among contract manufacturers operating in the pharmaceutical space. The company’s hygienic instrumentation range is designed specifically around the demands of GMP environments: sensors that survive repeated cleaning-in-place (CIP) and steam-in-place (SIP) cycles, which carry FDA-compliant

In practice, contract manufacturers face conditions that punish ordinary sensors. Reaction vessels foam. Autoclaves run at an elevated pressure and temperature. Big bag changeovers demand fast, hygienic disconnection without dismantling the installation. VEGA’s radar level transmitters, such as the VEGAPULS 6X, are engineered to measure reliably through foam and past agitators, giving operators continuous, noncontact level data even when the medium itself is working against the sensor. For pressure measurement in autoclaves and sterilisation cycles, VEGABAR transmitters, built around oil-free ceramic measuring cells, hold their accuracy through repeated thermal shock and aggressive cleaning chemistries, which are common failure points for less robust instrumentation. Point-level detection carries its own compliance weight. Dry-running a pump or overfilling a vessel is not just a process letdown in a regulated environment; it is a deviation that must be investigated, documented and potentially, reported. VEGA’s hygienic level switches are built to operate reliably through sterilisation cycles while meeting ASME-BPE, EHEDG and GMP standards, reducing the likelihood of a false reading becoming a batch record problem.

DATA INTEGRITY AS A COMPLIANCE ASSET Beyond the sensor itself, the way measurement data is captured and transmitted is also of importance to auditors.

Want the cleanest processes? We supply the measurement technology.

VEGAPULS 6X The perfect radar transmitter for non-contact level measurement in hygienically demanding production facilities. Everything is possible. With VEGA.

vega.com

• Precise measurement, even with challenging products and internal tank fixtures • Hygienic, CIP/SIP-resistant process fitting for easy cleaning • Reliable measurement data, unaffected by process conditions

PHARMA FOCUS/CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

VEGA IN REGULATED ENVIRONMENTS • Its hygienic connections are compatible with EHEDG, 3-A and Tri-Clamp standards. • VEGA’s sensors are engineered to withstand repeated CIP/SIP cycles without recalibration. • FDA-compliant for wetted materials (PFA, PTFE seals; stainless steel and Hastelloy). • IO-Link connectivity for automated, auditable calibration and diagnostic data.

A SHARED RESPONSIBILITY

VEGA’s instrumentation not only delivers on accuracy and hygiene promises but also integrates seamlessly into digital systems for validation and compliance documentation SAHPRA’s expectations around electronic quality systems draw on frameworks such as 21 CFR Part 11, which demand secure access control, audit trails and traceable electronic records. Instruments with digital communication protocols, such as IO-Link, allow calibration data, diagnostics and status information to be captured automatically rather than transcribed manually, eliminating a common source of documentation error during inspections.

For hazardous storage areas, such as solvent or API handling zones classified under Ex zoning, the same principle of built-in reliability extends to intrinsic safety. Compact radar sensors that are fully encapsulated and Ex-rated remove the need for additional barriers or intrinsically safe power supplies. This benefit simplifies the installation and safety case presented by contract manufacturing organisations at inspection.

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No instrument, however well engineered, replaces a validated quality system. But for South African contract manufacturing organisations navigating the increasingly rigorous SAHPRA inspection regime, and for principals abroad who expect PIC/Saligned production standards, the choice of measurement technology has become part of the compliance conversation. VEGA’s instrumentation not only delivers on accuracy and hygiene promises but also integrates seamlessly into digital systems for validation and compliance documentation. This simplifies qualification, supports predictive maintenance and ensures complete process transparency, from laboratory scale to full production. Sensors that survive the process, communicate reliably and hold their calibration through thousands of sterilisation cycles give quality teams one less variable to defend during an audit, and one more reason to trust the batch record in front of them. Manufacturers gain more than measurement data. They gain process insight. As local contract manufacturing capacity continues to grow to meet domestic demand and export ambitions, reliability at the point of measurement may prove to be one of the quieter yet more decisive factors in whether a facility passes its next inspection, or spends months remediating the last one. VEGA’s process instrumentation helps reduce downtime, prevents errors and enables data-driven decisions that improve sustainability and profitability. In pharmaceutical production, VEGA remains a trusted partner providing the tools, intelligence and reliability that allow contract manufacturers to produce with confidence and precision, every time. •

VEGA – www.vega.com/en-za

Manufacturing Manufacturing

Liquids • •Liquids - Syrups - Syrups - Suspensions - Suspensions - Emulsions •- Emulsions Creams/ointments/gels •- Shampoos Powders/granules • Tablets (uncoated/sugar-coated/film coated) • Creams/ointments/gels • Capsules • •Powders/granules Caplets • •Tablets (uncoated/sugar-coated/film coated) Lozenges Food supplements • •Capsules Aerosol • •Caplets • Lozenges • Lollies Blister and strip packing of capsules, tablets, • •Food supplements softgel caps and caplets • •Aerosols Sachet filling- liquids, powders, cream • ARV dose combinations andfixed ointments Tube filling (aluminium, plastic and laminated) • •Gummies • Shrink-wrapping • Effervescent tablets • Filling (creams, powders, liquids) • •Pastilles Flowpac/pillow packing of various products • •Toothpastes Tablet/capsule packing into containers

Packing

• Aerosol filling

Packing

• Blister and strip packing of capsules, tablets, softgelcaps and caplets • Sachet filling – liquids, powders, creams, ointments and tablets • Tube filling (aluminium, plastic and laminated) • Filling (creams, powders, liquids) • Flowpac/pillow packing of various products • Tablet/capsule packing into containers • Aerosol filling

Laboratory Services Fully Equipped stability laboratory offering: • Stability tests a) Various climatic zones b) Allopathic medicines c) Complementary medicines d) Health supplements • Comparative dissolution testing • Verification of analytical methods and more • Research & Development

Laboratory Services Confi dentiality Fully equipped laboratory including:

The companytests/storage enforces a strict confidentiality code. • Stability Full documentation accompanies all work.

- Various climatic zones - Allopathic medicines - Complementary medicines SAHPRA Licence; GMP Certificate; ISO 9001:2015 - Health supplements and ISO 22000:2005 • Comparative dissolution testing FDA Food and cosmetic registration • Verification of analytical methods and more

Certification

Confidentiality

The company enforces a strict confidentiality code. Full documentation accompanies all work. WRAPSA (PTY) LTD Tel: +27 (0) 12 653 0347/8 wrapsa@wrapsa.co.za

WRAPSA (PTY) LTD

Tel: +27 (0) 12 653 0347/8

Email: wrapsa@wrapsa.co.za

PHARMA FOCUS/CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

Inside Wrapsa: SA’s one-stop pharmaceutical manufacturer Wrapsa, a bona-fide pharmaceutical contract manufacturer, is 43 this year. Since the business was established in 1983, it has expanded across several production areas and into various disciplines. Wrapsa’s production line for medicated gummies and lozenges

or four decades, Wrapsa has fulfilled a definitive need as a reliable local contract manufacturer of pharmaceutical products, food supplements and complementary and alternative medicines (CAMs). Some of its customers have been with the business since the beginning which is a testament to the peace of mind Wrapsa provides as a bona-fide pharmaceutical contract manufacturer. “A large part of our customer retention strategy is based on trust, customer confidentiality and service excellence. Customers trust Wrapsa with their formulations, brand strategy and product IP, which are further safeguarded by the fact that we don’t produce any of our own branded products,” says Leanco van der Westhuizen, financial manager at Wrapsa.

DEVELOPMENTS OVER THE LAST DECADE The manufacturer has grown steadily from modest beginnings to becoming Southern Africa’s largest independently owned and fully accredited bona-fide contract manufacturer. The past 10 years have seen some of the most significant developments within the business, which include: • R80 million upgrade to its manufacturing and packing facility completed in early 2014 in line with the PIC/S guidelines. When thethen Medicines Control Council was accepted as a member of PIC/S, all pharmaceutical

Most of Wrapsa’s initial customers from 43 years ago are still customers today 12

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PHARMA FOCUS/CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

DID YOU KNOW?

Wrapsa’s laboratory is fully equipped to carry out FTIR spectrophotometric testing on medicinal products. This is an effective analytical method to perform quantitative tests quickly and reliably on pharmaceuticals and CAMs products.

manufacturers like Wrapsa were required to strengthen their GMP inspectorate and compliance with regulatory standards. • Installing and commissioning a high-tech, dedicated ARVs plant in 2017. Wrapsa produces a bi-layer fixed-dose combination ARV drug in a coated tablet format using the latest molecules on the market. • Upgrades to its on-site laboratory in 2019, including new benchtops, cabinets and HPLCs for the ARVs project and a new infrared spectrometer for CAMs assays. A laboratory information management system, compliant with the requirements of the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA), was also implemented, and walkin stability ovens were insalled for extensive stability testing. • The qualification of a new reverse osmosis plant in 2022. This was installed to deliver World Health Organization-standard quality water to Wrapsa’s foodstuffs manufacturing facility. • A dedicated plant for manufacturing and packing medicated gummies, lozenges and effervescents in 2023. The area was established to assist customers in their pursuit of new and improved oral therapies and innovative pharmaceutical dosage formats.

CERTIFIED AND REGULATORY COMPLIANT Quality control is essential in the pharmaceutical industry to ensure patient safety and compliance with regulations, and to protect the reputation of a brand, or in Wrapsa’s case – the reputation of its customers’ brands. “Wrapsa’s capabilities have evolved over the past 43 years to become a one-stop shop. We assist our customers with research and development, will accept raw materials and packaging components on firm or consignment basis, help with the registration of medicines and offer validation assistance,” says Van der Westhuizen. “Our laboratory tests all API and excipient raw materials received according to the latest Pharmacopeial methods, or as needed by the dossier requirements per product. Pharmaceutical manufacturing plants must be licenced by the authority to produce medicines. In 1998, Wrapsa attained its ISO 9002 certification. This was followed by the contract manufacturer attaining recertification in line with (the-then) newer ISO 9001:2008. Currently, Wrapsa holds ISO 9001:2015 and ISO 22000:2018 accreditations and is licenced by SAHPRA to manufacture medicines and medical devices. It also holds a SAHPRA

A packing line equipped with check weighers and inspection technology

certificate of Good Manufacturing Practice and is certified by the US Food & Drug Administration to manufacture and pack foodstuffs. As a producer of essential drugs and government tender business, in 2023 the company successfully completed a UNICEF inspection. “We have always operated with a strong family ethos, and place the utmost importance on customer relationships,” says Nardus Alberts, CEO of Wrapsa. “Most of Wrapsa’s initial customers from 43 years ago are still customers today.” •

Wrapsa – www.wrapsa.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2026

PERSONAL CARE SOLUTIONS

High-performance opacity without microplastics For personal care formulators, achieving a luxurious, creamy white appearance in rinse-off products has long meant relying on styrene/acrylates-based opacifiers. While effective, these ingredients are increasingly out of step with where the industry is heading. liquid hand soaps and facial cleansers. For brands managing multiple product lines, this flexibility makes it a strong candidate for portfolio consolidation.

REGULATORY COMPLIANCE MEETS INNOVATION

Exopacif MPF SF integrates easily in sulfate-free formulation systems

he EU’s restriction on intentionally added microplastics under REACH has set a clear timeline for the removal of solid synthetic polymers from cosmetic formulations, while consumer demand for mild, sulfate-free, clean-label alternatives continues to reshape what brands put on shelf. Developed to meet market demands, Exopacif MPF SF (INCI: Glycol Distearate (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine) is the newest addition to EOC’s Exopacif MPF range. This microplasticfree opacifier is engineered specifically for mild and sulfate-free systems.

OPACITY WITHOUT THE POLYMER PAYLOAD Exopacif MPF SF delivers the creamy, stable whiteness formulators have come to expect from conventional opacifiers – yet it uses an entirely different chemistry. Rather than relying on synthetic polymer particles, it achieves opacity through biodegradable ingredients with high renewable carbon content and a natural origin index of 0.82. The ingredient is vegan and available in an RSPO Mass Balance grade, giving brands a clear route to align their opacity strategies with palm-oil sustainability commitments.

With an active matter of approximately 42% and sodium benzoate as its preservative, Exopacif MPF SF integrates easily in sulfatefree formulation systems. It produces strong opacifying performance at low dosage levels – typically between 0.5% and 3.0% – which means formulators can achieve the desired visual effect without high inclusion rates, keeping costs and formulation complexity in check.

COLD PROCESSING STRAIGHT FROM THE DRUM Among its standout practical advantages, Exopacif MPF SF is cold-processable. Unlike traditional opacifiers, which require pre-dilution or heat, it is ready to use as supplied. Simply add it after pH adjustment and before the introduction of sodium chloride, targeting a minimum formulation viscosity of approximately 4 000mPa·s. The absence of a pre-dilution step translates into fewer processing stages, while cold processing reduces energy demands on the manufacturing floor – a benefit that compounds at scale. The ingredient’s versatility extends across a broad range of rinse-off applications, including shampoos, creamy bath and shower products,

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The regulatory imperative is unambiguous. The EU’s restriction on intentionally added microplastics, adopted under REACH, places firm limits on solid synthetic polymer particles in cosmetic products, with phased compliance deadlines that are now taking effect. For brands supplying European markets – and others following similar trajectories – reformulating away from polymer-based opacifiers is not a question of if but when. Exopacif MPF SF answers this directly: it is microplastic-free by design, not by adaptation. The parallel shift towards sulfate-free formulations adds complexity. Consumers increasingly associate sulfate-free claims with mildness, gentleness and a cleaner ingredient story, yet achieving stable opacity in sulfate-free bases has historically presented a formulation challenge. Exopacif MPF SF is purpose-built for these systems, offering compatibility with mild surfactant frameworks without the performance trade-offs.

SUSTAINABILITY BEYOND THE LABEL EOC’s environmental commitment extends well beyond the molecule itself. The company’s manufacturing operations incorporate heat recovery systems, wind turbines, water reuse infrastructure and solar energy generation, reinforcing the sustainability credentials of the Exopacif MPF range from production to the finished formulation on the shelf. For formulators navigating regulatory compliance and shifting consumer expectations, Exopacif MPF SF offers a practical answer. The opacifier ingredient is available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals. •

EOC Group – www.eocgroup.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

CUTTING EDGE CUTTING CUTTING TECHNOLOGY CUTTING EDGE CUTTING EDGE TECHNOLOGY TECHNOLOGY TECHNOLOGY TECHNOLOGY HIGH QUALITY INGREDIENTS FOR WELLNESS INDUSTRIES WITHQUALITY SENSORYINGREDIENTS EXPERTISE HIGH WITH SENSORY EXPERTISE HIGH QUALITY INGREDIENTS WHICH WILL SET YOU APART FOR WELLNESS INDUSTRIES WHICH WILL SET YOU APART FOR WELLNESS INDUSTRIES

From basic ingredients to specialty actives for ingredients key application areas: actives From basic ingredients From to specialty From basic basic ingredients to From basic ingredients to specialty specialty actives actives for key application for key application areas: for key application application areas: key areas: | Creams | Pastes Capsules | Tablets | for Liquids | Syrups | Emulsions Sun Care || Tablets Skin Care | Hair Care | Baby Care | Hygiene | Oral Care Capsules | Liquids | Syrups | Emulsions | Creams | Pastes Capsules Capsules || Tablets Tablets || Liquids Liquids || Syrups Syrups || Emulsions Emulsions || Creams Creams || Pastes Pastes

Johannesburg: +27 11 856 4500 Cape Town: +27 21 830 5306 Johannesburg: +27 11 856 4500 Johannesburg: +27 4500 Cape Town: +27 21 11 830856 5306 Johannesburg: 11 4500 Johannesburg: +27 11 856 Cape Town: +27+27 21 830 5306

Durban: +27 31 313 3338 Email: info@savannah.co.za Durban: +27 31 313 3338 Durban: +27 31 313 3338 Email: info@savannah.co.za Durban: +27 31 31 313 313 3338 3338 Durban: +27 Email: info@savannah.co.za

www.savannah.co.za www.savannah.co.za www.savannah.co.za www.savannah.co.za www.savannah.co.za

PERSONAL CARE SOLUTIONS

South Africa's growing appetite for natural care A growing number of South African households are swapping conventional products for more conscious options. Whether it's sulphate-free shampoo for textured curls, plant-based surface cleaners, or soy candles that double as skincare, the message is clear: gentler formulations are finding their place on shelf – and local brands are delivering.

image: gettyimages

s South Africans become more conscious of what they put on their skin and use in their homes, natural skincare and eco-conscious home care products are gaining momentum. Detergents, fragrances and traditional personal care ingredients are coming under scrutiny among wellness-conscious consumers and environmentally aware households. As a result, these consumers are increasingly looking for alternatives that are gentler on people and kinder to the planet. The shift toward natural products is not simply a lifestyle trend. It reflects a growing awareness of how everyday choices can impact personal wellbeing, family health and environmental sustainability.

WHY NATURAL MATTERS The skin is the body’s largest organ. Some ingredients found in conventional personal care products may irritate sensitive skin and disrupt the skin barrier. For example, sulphates may

cause skin irritation while parabens may act as endocrine disruptors by weakly mimicking estrogen. However, major health agencies consider standard cosmetic amounts of these ingredients as safe. Clean beauty and natural or organic skincare products often rely on gentler ingredients, plant extracts and minimalistic formulations designed to support the skin rather that irritate it. Consumers are increasingly gravitating toward skincare that works with the skin’s natural biology instead of overwhelming it, with the South African personal care industry producing some great options to support consumer demand.

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Local cosmeceutical skincare brand SKNLOGIC focuses on science-backed skincare, which supports healthy skin function. The brand’s formulations prioritise skin integrity and long-term skin health using a high percentage of natural ingredients. SKNLOGIC’s award-winning Omega Oil serum and Moist Supreme cream are particularly good choices for winter with their deeply moisturising benefits. For textured and curly hair, natural ingredients can also make a meaningful difference. Jozi Curls has become a go-to for many South Africans embracing their natural hair. The brand offers products formulated with moisturerich ingredients to nourish

PERSONAL CARE SOLUTIONS

DID YOU KNOW? The clean beauty market in South Africa is expected to reach a projected revenue of $726.8 million by 2033. According to Grand View Research, a compound annual growth rate of 17.8% from 2026 to 2033 is expected for the country’s clean beauty market.

The move toward natural living extends well beyond skincare curls while avoiding unnecessary additives that can dry textured hair. Infused with sustainably sourced African plant extracts including marula oil and shea butter, Jozi Curls Hydrating Shampoo is a low-foam and sulphate-free shampoo recommended for dry and damaged hair. It promises to leave all curl types moisturised and soft.

CREATING HEALTHIER HOMES The move toward natural living extends well beyond skincare. It is perceived that some ingredients used in household cleaning products may linger in indoor environments or wash into waterways after use. Eco-conscious consumers are increasingly turning to plant-based cleaning alternatives for their biodegradable promise as these products are less likely to introduce unnecessary toxins into their homes. Earthsap, one of South Africa’s original eco-friendly household brands, offers

cleaning products made with plant-based ingredients and essential oils. The range includes biodegradable products, such as dishwashing liquid, laundry and household cleaners, and a fabric softener etc. designed to clean effectively while reducing environmental impact. For 20 years, Earthsap has been helping households minimise their chemical footprint without compromising on performance. Formulated by microbiologists, the Earthsap All Purpose Cleaner contains only natural ingredients and essential oils but is a powerful and hygienic cleaner. It’s also concentrated and promises that ‘a little goes a long way’.

BETTER FOR THE ENVIRONMENT The environmental aspect in the argument for natural products can no longer be ignored. Conventional products may contribute to pollution through non-biodegradable ingredients, excessive plastic packaging, and chemical runoff into rivers and oceans. Natural and eco-conscious brands often place greater emphasis on responsibly sourced ingredients, recyclable materials and packaging, and reduced environmental impact. Soy-based candles, for example, have become increasingly popular among consumers seeking cleaner alternatives to improve the ambience within their homes. A wellestablished local brand, SoyLites offers soy candles, natural body care and aromatherapy products made using renewable and sustainable ingredients. It provides an option for fragrance lovers who

want to avoid paraffin-based products while creating a calming home environment. The SoyLites Classic Soy Tumblers are the original soy candle range in South Africa. The dual use of ambience-plus-skincare is one of the most sought after qualities of these candles. They burn beautifully and are environmentally friendly. While burning, the candles form a warm massage oil which melts at a low temperature. The oil is formulated with vitamin E and Lecithin, offering a nourishing treat for skin.

SMALL CHANGES CAN HAVE A BIG IMPACT While no household transformation happens overnight, small, intentional swaps can make a meaningful difference over time. For many South Africans, natural living isn’t about perfection. It’s about making better-informed choices for one’s family, their wellbeing and the world around you – one step at a time. As consumers continue to ask more questions about ingredients, sourcing and sustainability, personal care brands that prioritise transparency, gentler formulations and environmental responsibility are likely to remain front of mind. •

Earthsap – info@earthsap.co.za SKNLOGIC – sknlogic.com SoyLites – www.soylites.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2026

PERSONAL CARE SOLUTIONS

Peptide innovation for modern personal care The global demand for effective, multifunctional personal care ingredients continues to rise, with peptides at the forefront of this innovation wave. As a professional peptide manufacturer from China, SpecChem addresses key market trends, with its portfolio of high-performance peptide blends.

ormulators are moving beyond single molecules toward synergistic ingredient combinations that address multiple signs of ageing simultaneously. SpecChem offers preoptimised blends that reduce development time

In vitro, it inhibits tyrosinase activity by 58.5% at 0.1% concentration. A 28-day clinical study on 37 women aged 25 to 55 years using a 5% cream showed progressive improvement in skin brightness and lightening, measured by ITA°

supported by anti-inflammatory Poria cocos extract, and dipeptide-2 for improving lymphatic drainage and reducing periorbital puffiness.

while delivering proven efficacy. SpecPed® NIP Pro is formulated with a circadian rhythm modulator (glutamylamidoethyl imidazole) together with two neuro-peptides (dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate and acetyl hexapeptide-8). In vitro studies show it enhances fibroblast viability by 59% compared to control at 20mg/mL after 48 hours, demonstrating clear synergy among components. Clinical results from a 28-day study on 33 women using a 3% serum showed a visible reduction in eye wrinkles and increased skin radiance, along with improvements in skin elasticity and hydration.

(individual typology angle). The formula also boosts collagen production by over 400% at 0.1% concentration.

SPECIALTY SOLUTIONS FOR LIPS AND LASHES

ADDRESSING EXPRESSION LINES AND EYE BAGS

COMMITMENT TO QUALITY AND SUSTAINABILITY

For dynamic wrinkles, SpecPlex® GPS bridges exogenous ageing (caused by UV and pollution) and endogenous ageing (intrinsic collagen decline). It features ginkgo biloba leaf extract together with palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and acetyl hexapeptide-8. In vitro, GPS increases collagen synthesis by 35.7% at 0.5mg/mL and accelerates the recovery of damaged skin through anti-inflammatory mechanisms. For targeted eye care, SpecKare® EyeS100 reduces eye bag volume by 28.12% after 28 days at 5% use level, as measured by 3D optical imaging (PRIMOS lite). It contains acetyl tetrapeptide-5 as a glycation inhibitor,

All SpecChem peptides are manufactured in EFfCI-certified facilities, with ISO9001, ISO14001 and SA8000 certifications. The company offers COSMOS, Natrue, Halal, Kosher and vegan certifications, supporting brands in meeting global clean beauty and sustainability standards. Full clinical study reports, safety data and formulation guides are available under confidentiality. For more information, contact SpecChem’s distributor Brenntag SA to request technical dossiers or sample formulations. •

SKIN LONGEVITY AND ANTI-GLYCATION

images: gettyimages

Beyond traditional anti-ageing, glycation is a growing consumer concern. This is where sugar molecules bind to and damage collagen and elastin. The process leads to sagging, yellowing and loss of firmness. SpecPlex ® Gloss addresses glycation comprehensively. The brightening complex, with an 80% natural origin index, combines lactobionic acid, carnosine, nonapeptide-1, tranexamic acid and niacinamide.

SpecKare ® EyeS100 reduces eye bag volume by 28.12% 18

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SpecChem also offers oil-soluble peptides for lip care. SpecPed® Lip Plump uses four peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-38, acetyl hexapeptide-37, acetyl hexapeptide-38 and hexapeptide-3), to naturally increase lip volume without irritation. Clinical testing of a 2% lipstick formulation showed increased lip volume, decreased wrinkle depth, reduced redness and improved gloss. For eyelash growth, SpecPed® Lash1617 combines biotinoyl tripeptide-1 with four myristoyl peptides. It stimulates keratin production and extends the anagen (growth) phase. A 14-day clinical study on 10 volunteers using a 10% serum showed a 28% average increase in lash length, with no adverse reactions observed.

Brenntag Beauty & Care – www.brenntag.com

Beautifully complex Creating multi-benefit solutions for today’s personal care innovations From skin longevity and radiance to eye, lip and lash care, we help transform innovative ingredients into solutions that inspire the next generation of personal care products.

Supporting your next formulation with: ▪ Skin longevity

▪ Lash and brow enhancement

▪ Brightening

▪ Peptides and bioactives

▪ Eye care

▪ Botanical actives

▪ Lip care

▪ Technical and formulation expertise

Talk to our Beauty & Personal Care team 1

PERSONAL CARE SOLUTIONS

Perfume becomes an experience at Esxence 2026 Perfume is no longer something we simply wear. It has become tangible, photographed, questioned and ultimately remembered. This was evident at Esxence, a leading international exhibition dedicated to artistic perfumery. invited visitors into inclusive experiences. No brand demonstrated this better than Bohoboco. Instead of a traditional display, visitors were met by a retro gasoline station, where they could quite literally pump the fragrance Mango Yuzu Gasoline before experiencing its

Havana, where the richness of Cuban culture is echoed not only in the composition itself but also in the sophisticated presentation and meticulous attention to detail.

explosive combination of juicy mango and sparkling yuzu. A similarly immersive philosophy could be found across the hall at FUGAZZI, where visitors queued around a customdesigned vending machine installation that blurred the line between retail, entertainment and product activation. Inside the nightclub-inspired setting, the brand introduced PommGaranat, a playful fruity oud designed to move effortlessly from daytime sophistication into evening elegance.

Spanish fragrance house OTZ LAB was one of the most visually captivating discoveries at the exhibition. More than a perfume brand, this creative laboratory challenges the conventions of artistic perfumery through bold design and unexpected olfactory compositions. Created by the renowned fashion house OTEYZA, the collection draws inspiration from Madrid – a city defined by shifting light, vibrant energy, artistic expression and effortless elegance. Every fragrance reflects the spirit of the Spanish capital, translating its rich culture into scent. Each composition pushes the boundaries of traditional perfumery, combining unexpected ingredients with remarkable balance and sophistication.

THE RISE OF COLLECTIBLE PERFUMERY

E image: gettyimages

very spring, Milan becomes the centre of artistic perfumery. Collectors, perfumers, founders, retailers and fragrance enthusiasts from around the world gather under one roof for one purpose – to celebrate creativity. For the Düllberg Konzentra team, Esxence was far more than an exhibition. It was an opportunity to reconnect with partners, discover emerging talent, exchange ideas with visionary founders and witness how the language of perfume continues to evolve.

STORYTELLING HAS LEFT THE BOTTLE Immersive storytelling was one of the strongest themes throughout Esxence. Rather than presenting perfumes on shelves, brands

There is a growing idea that fragrances should be collected rather than purchased. POSH approached this trend with remarkable simplicity. Instead of names, each perfume carries only a number, encouraging customers to build their own fragrance library over time. Even more interesting was the brand's approach to layering. Every bottle is paired with a carefully selected companion sample, allowing customers to discover an entirely new fragrance by combining the two compositions.

DESIGN BECOMES PART OF THE PERFUME Industrial design and fragrance creation were interwoven throughout Esxence, with the bottle itself becoming an extension of the olfactory story. Florian Pontier of Florian Pontier perfumes has a passion for creating fragrances that speak equally through scent and visual identity. His philosophy is reflected in creations such as

SEPTEMBER 2026 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

COLOUR, ART AND OLFACTORY LABORATORY

WELLNESS FINDS ITS PLACE IN PERFUMERY Rather than creating fragrances around trends or ingredients, ODE ONA house starts with emotions. Drawing inspiration from Eastern wellness rituals – including forest bathing, ceremonial smoke, tea rituals and meditation – each perfume is designed to evoke a particular state of mind. Every ingredient serves two purposes, for beauty and wellbeing. The result is a collection that bridges French perfumery with Eastern philosophy, reminding visitors that fragrance can influence far more than the senses.

CAPTURING MEMORIES ONE BOTTLE AT A TIME Some brands focused less on spectacle and more on emotion. South Korean house Sisology transformed the simple act of opening a

PERSONAL CARE SOLUTIONS

‘chapters’ each year, with every chapter comprising three fragrances carefully composed to complement one another. This thoughtful approach reflects Pesade’s belief that true beauty lies in harmony – not only between scents, but also within us.

MORE THAN AN EXHIBITION Leaving Esxence, one thought remained: the future of niche perfumery is no longer defined solely by exceptional raw materials or beautiful compositions. It is being shaped by experiences, conversations with founders, thoughtful design, emotional storytelling, and by art. For the Düllberg Konzentra team, Esxence was a place to discover new ways of thinking about fragrance itself. The team returned home inspired by the remarkable creativity that continues to drive the fragrance industry forward. • Düllberg Konzentra – www.duellberg-konzentra.de/en

perfume into the nostalgic experience of using a vintage camera. Every detail, from the leather carry strap to the lens-inspired bottle cap, inspired visitors perceive fragrance as a memory waiting to be captured. Sisology’s fragrance Deep Down, blending fig, cedarwood and vanilla, embodied this philosophy perfectly.

NEW VOICES SHAPING ARTISTIC PERFUMERY Esxence has always been a place where emerging brands find their audience. JK (Jang Kều) is the Vietnamese founder behind the French perfume house, Jillian. Guided by the belief that fragrance should be discovered rather than demand attention, Jillian creates perfumes that celebrate quiet expression, intentional craftsmanship and emotional depth. The fragrance house collaborated with multidisciplinary artist Antoinette Rozan on its latest collection, Love.Eternal. Inspired by the emotional essence of each fragrance,

Immersive storytelling was one of the strongest themes throughout Esxence Rozan translated the invisible narratives into a series of original artworks, which appear on the perfume labels. The result is a seamless dialogue between scent and visual art. Another progressive brand, MAYHAP uses futuristic packaging that appears to be almost extraterrestrial, inviting visitors to imagine what fragrance might look like decades from now. Instead of releasing individual perfumes, Korean house, Pesade unveils one or two WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2026

ETHNIC CARE

The longevity revolution arrives in hair care What if hair ageing could be addressed before thinning begins? With ETERWELL™ HAIR, the concept of longevity science in hair care is now a reality.

science. It is redefining what formulators, brand owners and manufacturers mean by ‘anti-ageing’ when the substrate is not skin but the hair follicle.

FROM SKINIFICATION TO CELLULAR PRESERVATION The skinification of hair, which gained momentum over the past few years, has established the foundation for today’s

images: gettyimages

or decades, the hair care category has played catch-up to skin care. While anti-ageing serums and retinoids dominated the beauty counter, hair care remained firmly in the realm of repair and aesthetics with bond builders, heat protectants and silicone smoothness. This landscape is shifting. A new vocabulary has entered the category – one that borrows directly from cellular biology and longevity

The longevity trend prioritises the biological preservation of the hair follicle

hair longevity movement. The logic is straightforward: if consumers treat their scalp as an extension of facial skin, then actives proven in dermatology, like niacinamide, peptides and ceramides, have a place in hair and scalp care formulations. What has changed is the ambition. Rather than addressing damage after it occurs, the longevity trend prioritises the biological preservation of the hair follicle, targeting the cellular processes that drive hair ageing before thinning and loss become visible.

THE SENOLYTIC FRONTIER Central to this shift is the concept of senescence. Senescent cells – often described as ‘zombie cells’ – are cells that have stopped dividing but refuse to die. In hair follicles, they accumulate over time, secreting a senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP), which propagates inflammation and dysfunction to neighbouring cells, ultimately compromising follicle health and hair growth. ETERWELL™ HAIR (INCI: Glycerin, Water, Linum Alpinum Leaf/Stem Extract, Citric Acid), produced by dsm-firmenich and distributed in South Africa by Chempure, is positioned as the first senolytic ingredient tested directly on hair follicles using an exclusive, proprietary model developed by dsm-firmenich. The ingredient is derived from Linum alpinum (Alpine blue flax) and carries 100% naturalorigin content (ISO 16128).

LESS SENESCENT CELLS MORE VITALITY What sets ETERWELL™ HAIR apart is the depth of its technical credentials. In an H2O2-induced senescence model on follicle

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ETHNIC CARE

DID YOU KNOW? Consumers want their hair to age healthily. For this reason, ‘ageing hair’ ranks as the top global hair concern at 58%, ahead of damaged hair at 54% and scalp problems at 42% (2022 data).

dermal papilla cells, treatment with 0.001% ETERWELL™ HAIR resulted in 53% fewer senescent cells. The same concentration inhibited approximately 66% of BCL-2 in a TR-FRET in vitro assay, confirming a senolytic mechanism of action via targeted apoptosis of senescent cells. The in vivo results are equally compelling. A clinical study involving two groups of 30 volunteers each (age range 30 to 65, one daily application over 150 days) demonstrated a mean Anagen/Telogen ratio increase of 5.2% versus placebo (p < 0.05), with 70% of volunteers in the 0.5% ETERWELL™ HAIR group showing improvement compared with fewer than 45% in the placebo group. Hair density increased by an average of 5% versus

baseline (p < 0.01), with the best volunteer achieving up to 28%. Proteomics analysis further validated the mechanism. In the placebo group, JAK2 – a protein associated with hair loss – increased by 38.2%, while ETERWELL™ HAIR reversed this trajectory, reducing it by 24.9% (p = 0.028). The ingredient similarly suppressed markers that drive cellular senescence: HRAS rose by 17.5% in placebo but fell by 25.6% with ETERWELL™ HAIR (p = 0.001), and AIMP3 increased by 24.7% in placebo versus a 27.7% reduction with ETERWELL™ HAIR (p = 0.002).

forces. The ingredient's sustainability credentials – 100% natural-origin, Fair for Life certification, a lowered carbon footprint and regenerative farming practices – respond to the 67% of global consumers who seek ecofriendly beauty products. Its suggested use concentration of 0.5% to 3% offers formulating flexibility while its proven efficacy at a low dose strengthens cost-in-use arguments. As the longevity trend moves from a buzzword to market demand, ETERWELL™ HAIR offers hair care brands a clinically validated senolytic active with a defined mechanism of action on the hair follicle. For the South African cosmetics industry, it offers an opportunity to participate in a category shift that is reshaping global hair care from the cellular level upward. For more technical data and formulation support, contact Chempure. •

WHY IT MATTERS FOR HAIR CARE IN SOUTH AFRICA For formulators and brand owners, ETERWELL™ HAIR aligns with several converging market

Chempure – chempure.co.za dsm-firmenich – www.dsm-firmenich.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2026

ETHNIC CARE

Could wetting be the next frontier in hair longevity? As hair care moves toward more durable fibre health and longevity, formulators are increasingly focused on building long-term hair resilience. While bond builders, scalp microbiome technologies and follicle vitality have been the centre of attention, one critical step in hair care performance has remained largely overlooked: wetting.

efore conditioning agents, oils, polymers, proteins or actives can deliver benefits, a formulation must first efficiently wet the hair fibre. For consumers with textured, curly and coily hair, this is often where performance challenges begin. High fibre density, frequent tangling and knotting characteristics of textured hair can reduce water accessibility to individual fibres, leading to uneven product distribution, increased rinsing time and reduced overall formulation efficiency. These challenges frequently translate into longer routines, higher product consumption and inconsistent results.

A NEW SCIENCE OF WETTING Recent advances in hair science are shifting attention toward the fibreliquid interface. Rather than adding increasing levels of oils, silicones or conditioning agents to compensate for poor deposition, formulators are exploring technologies that address the root cause. This is the ability of a formula to rapidly and uniformly spread across the hair surface. Easy-hance™ wetting agent is a nature-derived superwetting technology designed specifically for hair care applications. By significantly lowering surface tension and reducing the contact angle between the formula and the hair fibre, it enables faster water penetration and more uniform product spreading across every strand. This seemingly simple mechanism creates a cascade of benefits. Improved wetting enables more efficient delivery of conditioning agents, polymers, humectants and oils, resulting in enhanced moisturisation, detangling, curl definition and frizz control.

BETTER CARE THROUGH FORMULATION EFFICIENCY

images: gettyimages

Studies conducted on rinse-off and leave-on systems demonstrate that enhanced wetting can improve flash foam, facilitate sebum removal at lower surfactant concentrations and accelerate product distribution throughout the hair. In tested formulations, this new wetting technology has shown improvements in moisturisation, detangling, manageability and curl definition while also reducing frizz, whitening and residue. The technology may also support formulation optimisation by reducing reliance on higher levels of costly oils, silicones, humectants

Improved wetting enables more efficient delivery of conditioning agents 24

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Figure 1: Improved hair appearance with reduced conditioning agents

and conditioning agents while maintaining consumer-perceivable performance. Recommended use levels are typically between 0.05% and 1%, allowing formulators to achieve meaningful benefits with minimal impact on viscosity, stability or aesthetics.

SUPPORTING SUSTAINABILITY GOALS Available in South Africa from IMCD, Easy-hance™ wetting agent has a sustainability profile that includes inherent biodegradability, non-microplastic status, vegan suitability and a clean, simple INCI: Polyglycerol Ethylhexyl Ether. Because improved wetting can reduce water requirements, shorten rinse times and lower formulation complexity, it offers an additional pathway toward resource-efficient product design. Internal performance evaluations have demonstrated reductions in rinse time and water consumption in hair care systems, supporting industry's broader objective of improving sustainability without compromising efficacy.

THE FUTURE OF HAIR PERFORMANCE Hair longevity is increasingly defined by the ability to maintain healthy, resilient fibers while delivering a superior consumer experience. While bond-building technologies repair damage inside the hair cortex and scalp-focused innovations support follicle health, wetting technologies address a fundamental prerequisite for performance in ensuring that every ingredient can effectively reach its target. The superwetting approach offers formulators new tool, by enabling a faster, more uniform interaction between the formulation and hair fibres. In a market driven by efficacy, sustainability and convenience, better wetting may prove to be one of the most impactful innovations in modern hair care.•

Ashland Ashland – www.ashland.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdsa.co.za

AEROSOLS & DEODORANTS

Dual-action technology for odour control and sweat reduction The deodorant category is undergoing a quiet but significant shift. For decades, a ‘deodorant’ was simply a product applied to the underarm to mask or reduce body odour.

oday, the definition is changing in line with the demand for whole-body applications, natural ingredient stories and protection that lasts throughout the day and night. Consumers also want more than a pleasant fragrance layered over body odour; they require a technology that neutralises the smell at its source, and they favour formulas that are sustainable and gender-neutral by design. It's against this backdrop that Gulbrandsen Technologies positions Evolve, a water-soluble, zinc hydroxychloride complex built specifically for the next generation of odour-control products.

A MULTIFUNCTIONAL ACTIVE What distinguishes Evolve in a crowded ingredient marketplace is its breadth of application. Rather than being confined to traditional underarm deodorant sticks and roll-ons, Evolve is formulated as a head-to-toe active capable of supporting odour control, sweat reduction, oral freshness and even scalp health. This breadth opens the door to whole-body deodorant sprays, dry-feel body products, oral care formats, hair care systems and home care applications. It also provides a considerably wider commercial footprint than that of a conventional odour ingredient.

images: gettyimages

ALUMINIUM-FREE AND WATER-SOLUBLE Evolve’s aluminium-free positioning is another important point of differentiation. Aluminium-based antiperspirants work by temporarily reducing sweat through the formation of plugs within the sweat ducts. While effective, this approach may not align with consumers who prefer aluminium-free deodorant products or want alternatives to traditional antiperspirant technology. Aluminium salts can also be associated with challenges such as white residue and potential skin irritation for some users, making sensory experience and skin compatibility important considerations in formulation. Moving away from traditional technologies can present challenges around efficacy, formulation compatibility and sensory performance. Evolve offers a water-soluble approach, giving formulators an active that can be incorporated into water-based systems with ease.

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Rather than relying on conventional aluminium-based antiperspirant technology, Evolve is positioned around odour control and antimicrobial activity, with supporting performance data demonstrating significant reductions in perceivable sweat odour for up to 72 hours and reported sweat reduction of up to 74% under the tested conditions. The technology is also described as having antimicrobial, antibacterial and antifungal properties. This is particularly relevant to odour management, as the formation of body odour is closely associated with microbial activity on the skin. By supporting odour control alongside antimicrobial activity, Evolve aligns with the growing interest in technologies designed to manage odour rather than simply mask it with fragrance. Formulation: Deodorant roll on

Sr no.

Ingredient

% w/w

Evolve

20.00

Aqua

70.00

Glycerine

02.00

Steareth-21

03.70

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

05.00

Steareth-2

01.30

Compared to a water glycerine solution (reference product), the Evolve solution (test product) significantly reduced the perceivable sweat odour, judged by four odour judges using 24 panelists at Proderm Lab for all time points: 24h, 48h and 72h after application. Table 1: Deodorancy test

Water glycerine solution Evolve solution (test)

24H p value

<0.001

0.003

AEROSOLS & DEODORANTS

Table 2: Sweat reduction performance of Evolve

%Zn

% Glycine

Sweat reduction

P value

ACH (20% A.S.)

51%

Evolve

7.5

59%

0.077

Evolve

69%

0.003

Evolve

7.5

74%

<0.001

Evolve

69%

<0.001

Evolve is formulated as a headto-toe active capable of supporting odour control

Results from Proderm Lab

Evolve brings several of these themes together through a multifunctional, water-soluble active designed around odour control and sweat reduction. With supporting data for deodorancy and sweat reduction, it offers formulators an opportunity to rethink how modern deodorant products can deliver freshness and protection. As the category continues to evolve, technologies such as Evolve can help move deodorant development beyond odour masking towards a more comprehensive approach

THE FUTURE OF DEODORANT PRODUCTION As an innovative ingredient, Evolve reflects where the deodorant and personal care category is heading. Consumers are moving away from odour masking solutions toward ingredients that combine efficacy, gentleness and sustainability credentials. Evolve carries 100% vegan and cruelty-free certifications alongside sustainability and ethical-sourcing accreditations, checking boxes that increasingly influence purchasing decisions and retailer requirements. The future of deodorant development is centred on performance, multifunctionality and evolving consumer expectations. Long-lasting odour control, sweat management, whole-body applications, dry-feel benefits and aluminium-free positioning are contributing to a broader formulation landscape.

of odour and sweat management. It also gives formulators flexibility to explore new formats and broader personal care applications. •

AECI Speciality Chemicals – Nontokozo.Masuku@aeciworld.com

EVOLVE

ALUMINIUM-FREE. WATER-SOLUBLE. MADE FOR MORE THAN DEODORANT. A water-soluble, aluminium-free active that delivers up

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to 72h odour reduction and up to 74% sweat reduction.

Contact AECI Specialty Chemicals

to explore formulation possibilities, technical data and development support:

Phineas Folotsi • +27 63 694 3056 • Phineas.Folotsi@aeciworld.com Nontokozo Masuku • +27 82 575 1864 • Nontokozo.Masuku@aeciworld.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2026

AEROSOLS & DEODORANTS

Leading brand brings skincare innovation to underarm care The deodorant category is moving beyond odour and sweat control, with skincare science increasingly becoming part of the formulation story. NIVEA’s Derma Control range reflects this shift, combining long-lasting antiperspirant protection with ingredients designed to care for the delicate underarm skin. By Abby Vorster

he underarm is often overlooked when it comes to skincare, despite being exposed to regular shaving, friction and the daily use of deodorant products. NIVEA’s Derma Control range, launched earlier this year, takes a more holistic approach, positioning underarm care alongside the skincare routines consumers already follow for their face and body. At the heart of the range is a combination of antiperspirant technology and skin-focused ingredients. The formulations incorporate hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and pro-vitamin B5 to support skin comfort and help defend against irritation, particularly after shaving. The result is a deodorant that aims to do more than provide freshness, with regular use helping to leave the underarms feeling softer and healthier.

SCIENCE-LED INNOVATION FOR HEALTHIER SKIN

TWO APPROACHES TO UNDERARM CARE

CREATING IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCES

The new range by Nivea is divided into Derma Control Even Tone and Derma Control Defend, bringing different skincare considerations into the deodorant category. Both are designed to deliver up to 72-hour sweat and odour protection while supporting the condition of the skin. The convergence of deodorant and skincare is significant for formulators and brands as consumers become more knowledgeable about ingredients and increasingly expect personal care products to provide multiple benefits. Rather than treating deodorant purely as a functional product, the Derma Control concept recognises that the skin underneath the arms deserves better consideration.

The inclusion of familiar skincare actives is central to the underarm care positioning: • Hyaluronic acid is associated with hydration • Vitamin C is widely recognised for its role in skincare and is highlighted in the range’s even tone proposition. • Pro-vitamin B5 adds another layer of skin-focused care, supporting comfort and helping to address the irritation that can accompany shaving. The innovation lies not simply in adding skincare ingredients to a deodorant, but in bringing together two traditionally separate product functions: effective antiperspirant protection and everyday skincare.

NIVEA brought this proposition to life earlier in the year at the Derma Control event at STAY by Imitable in Muldersdrift, Johannesburg. Rather than focusing solely on a product push, the immersive experience centred on educating guests on underarm care in terms of hydration and renewal. Ultimately the brand is focused on driving the idea of caring for underarm skin as intentionally as other areas of the body. With consumers increasingly seeking efficacy alongside gentleness and skin benefits, NIVEA Derma Control illustrates how the deodorant category is evolving. The future of underarm care will move beyond odour control to combine protection, comfort and skincare in one everyday product. •

The convergence of deodorant and skincare is significant for formulators and brands NIVEA – www.nivea.co.za

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printers and converters of shrink sleeves & flexible packaging

Through an innovative and out of the box approach to our clients’ needs, we are not only willing, but also able to provide practical and efficient cost-saving solutions to most printing and packaging challenges. A pioneering narrow web flexographic printer, ISW specializes in, while not confined to, the manufacturing of highly decorative and complex shrink sleeves, self-adhesive and wraparound labels, and various forms of flexible packaging. By working closely with local and international suppliers, and utilising specially developed in-house processes a multitude of innovative finishes including the likes of thermochromic, glow in the dark, domed, holographic and high lustre metallics along with specialised multi-perforation solutions for promotional items are achieved. With the manufacturing plant consisting of 10-colour and eight-colour MPS EPW560’s and a full complement of the latest offerings in finishing equipment for the conversion and inspection of our products, ISW maintains the highest level of quality and is one of only a handful of narrow web printers capable of producing wide lay flat shrink sleeves, achieving a L/F of 276mm from a printed web width of 575mm. By offering assistance and advice with every step from concept to design, production and application; we are there to ensure our clients achieve their desired vision efficiently, affordably and consistently.

www.iswshrink.co.za 16 Edendale Rd West Eastleigh, Edenvale. Tel: (011) 609 1488 Fax: 086 515 7409 Email: sales@iswshrink.co.za 2019/279539/07 VAT Reg 4870259860

PACKAGING

Counting the cost of quality Minebea Intec explores reasons why 'total cost of ownership' is becoming one of the key evaluation criteria for manufacturers, when investing in weighing and inspection technology.

Precision is more than a technical specification

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or many manufacturers, 2026 is not a year of major investment, but one of careful consideration. The pressure to modernise is mounting, whilst the investment climate remains tense. KPMG forecasts only moderate investment growth of 1.3% for the eurozone in 2026. At the same time, the EY Europe Attractiveness Survey 2025 highlights just how deep-seated the uncertainty is: 37% of companies surveyed have postponed, scaled back or cancelled investment projects in Europe altogether. The number of investment projects in Europe fell to a nine-year low in 2024, with the manufacturing sector recording a 9% decline. EY cites weak growth, persistently high energy prices and geopolitical tensions as the main drivers. In the pharmaceutical and chemical industries, this is shifting the criteria for investment decisions. The focus is no longer solely on the purchase price, but also on the economic impact of a piece of equipment throughout its years of operation. Where processes are tightly scheduled, subject to stringent regulations and material-intensive,

a technical detail can quickly become an economic factor. “Especially under cost pressure, people often look first at the purchase price. In operation, however, it quickly shows that actual costs arise elsewhere – for example, due to instability, additional operating effort or unplanned downtime,” says Yannick Salzmann, product manager at Minebea Intec, a leading global manufacturer of industrial weighing and inspection technologies.

PRECISION IS NOT A LUXURY, BUT COST CONTROL This is evident in weighing processes. Whether bench and floor scales, container, silo or truck scales, even minimal measurement deviations can equate to significant material losses at high throughput rates. In the pharmaceutical industry, it compromises reproducibility and validity while it can jeopardise the stability of sensitive processes in the chemical industry. Therefore, precision is more than a technical specification. It directly influences

SEPTEMBER 2026 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

raw material consumption, process reliability and product quality. Systems with long-term stability not only reduce deviations but also the need for readjustments, manual corrections and additional testing efforts. This is precisely where the business relevance of weighing and inspection technology begins.

TCO STARTS WITH THE PROCESS The term ‘total cost of ownership’ (TCO) provides a more precise description of these interrelationships than any consideration of price alone. It encompasses not only the initial investment, but also all costs throughout a system’s lifecycle, including integration, commissioning, maintenance, calibration, energy consumption, spare parts, training costs, unplanned downtime and the consequential costs of scrap, measurement errors or recalls. This is particularly relevant in times of economic uncertainty. Systems that appear economical may prove to be a more expensive choice in the long run. For instance, they could be sensitive to environmental conditions or

PACKAGING

require frequent readjustment. Furthermore, it might take a considerable expense for the system to be integrated into existing lines or moved to other lines. “TCO means not evaluating technology in isolation. What matters is how robust, durable, precise and low-maintenance a system is – and how reliably it fits into the actual process,” says Salzmann.

CENTRAL TO ONGOING PROCESS MONITORING Checkweighers, metal detectors and X-ray inspection systems are now more than inspection stations at the end of a line. They ensure product quality, protect consumers, reduce the risk of complaints and recalls, and provide data that for ongoing process monitoring. What matters here is not just the detection performance on the spec sheet, but stability during continuous operation. False alarms, fluctuating detection rates or high maintenance costs can slow down production lines,

TO PUT TCO INTO PRACTICE – ASK THE FOLLOWING: • How stable is the system under realworld conditions? • What subsequent costs arise from readjustment, maintenance and training? • How well can the solution be integrated into existing production lines and IT structures? • What is the high risk of scrap, false alarms or unplanned downtime? • To what extent can the technology be adapted to specific process requirements?

increase reject rates and significantly boost operational costs. Clearly, value for money is not determined solely by the initial purchase price, but by a combination of availability, reliability and usability.

INTEGRATION IS PART OF THE INVESTMENT CALCULATION Integrability is an aspect often underestimated in practice. Modern production environments require systems that fit seamlessly into automation and IT landscapes – for example, via interfaces to SPC applications, statistics and reporting solutions, or higher-level production systems. This is not a convenience feature, but an operational necessity. Where data is consistently available, manual effort is reduced, deviations become apparent sooner and improvements can be systematically derived. Investments in weighing and inspection technology are also investments in transparency, traceability and process knowledge. “The benefit of modern systems lies not only in the measured value itself, but also in the way data can be processed. It is only through integration into higher-level processes that the basis for transparency and continuous optimisation is created,” says Salzmann.

WHAT QUALITY LOOKS LIKE IN OPERATION For suppliers, this means that demand is not just for high-performance individual components, but for solutions that operate stably over the long term, under real production conditions. Quality is demonstrated more by measurable characteristics than promotional claims: low drift, stable results over long

calibration intervals, high system availability, reproducible detection performance, and as few false alarms and rejections as possible. The ability to adapt systems to specific requirements is another distinguishing feature, which is often decisive in practice. This is because production environments can differ considerably, in terms of environmental conditions, cleaning regimes, regulatory requirements, line architecture or data connectivity. A solution that performs well in a standard setup does not automatically operate economically in every application.

CUSTOMISATION NOW A KEY BUSINESS FACTOR For suppliers, this means that demand is not just for high-performance individual components, but for solutions that operate stably over the long term, under real production conditions. Quality is demonstrated more by measurable characteristics than promotional claims: low drift, stable results over long calibration intervals, high system availability, reproducible detection performance, and as few false alarms and rejections as possible. The ability to adapt systems to specific requirements is another distinguishing feature, which is often decisive in practice. This is because production environments can differ considerably, in terms of environmental conditions, cleaning regimes, regulatory requirements, line architecture or data connectivity. A solution that performs well in a standard setup does not automatically operate economically in every application.

A RESILIENT BENEFIT The investment landscape of 2026 is characterised by caution and by greater precision in evaluation. When budgets are under pressure, it is no longer sufficient to compare systems based on purchase costs. Solutions must operate reliably under realworld conditions, safeguard processes and incur lower follow-up costs in the long term. This connection is particularly evident in weighing and inspection technologies. This is because technical performance, regulatory requirements and business impact are directly interlinked. Those who base investment decisions solely on the purchase price are optimising for the short term. Those who focus on the total cost of ownership make more robust decisions – and in many cases, more cost-effective ones too. •

Minebea Intec – www.minebea-intec.com WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2026

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ASSOCIATION NEWS/COSCHEM

Celebrating the formula on the fork Ask a cosmetic chemist where their best ideas come from, and few would point to a restaurant menu. Yet the molecules that give a dish its flavour, aroma and texture are often the very same ones that appear on an INCI declaration. At Coschem’s most recent networking event, the society undertook to helping guests understand how food molecules trigger our senses and can reshape the way we think about formulation design.

he mission of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists is to promote, enhance and support technical skills and knowledge within the cosmetic chemistry industry. Through seminars, lectures, the Cosmetic Science Course and annual Scientific Conference, Coschem creates opportunities for learning, connection and knowledge exchange. The Secret Ingredient Luncheon, hosted on 12 August at the wonderful SetteBello, brought this mission to life in a fun, interactive and delicious way. The afternoon explored the fascinating connections between food, nutrition and cosmetic science, celebrating the raw materials at the heart of the industry. Together guests discovered how cosmetic raw materials can be experienced through

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food and how the food on the luncheon menu fire-up our neural receptors.

A MENU WITH A HIDDEN AGENDA Guests enjoyed an Italian feast served across three courses, with each course featuring dishes containing a matching secret ingredient. The challenge: identify the ingredients by unlocking clues along the way! Italian cuisine focuses on the best quality ingredients for simple and delicious food. It echoes where sustainability and traceability are headed in the cosmetics and personal care sectors, and with Settebello being one of two restaurants in the country with Italian accreditation, the venue aligned perfectly. Coschem’s knowledgeable and entertaining host was Donovan Perrins

ASSOCIATION NEWS/COSCHEM

– a neurobiologist/psychologist. Perrins guided guests through each course, revealing clues to the secret ingredient while sharing fascinating insights into the benefits and science behind selected ingredients.

THE RECEPTORS BEHIND THE BITE The three courses covered a vast spread of Italian cuisine, with each dish

Science is found everywhere, especially where you least expect it

showcasing quiet industrial powerhouses hidden in plain sight. The discussion left guests inspired and excited, with a refreshed perspective and appreciation for what we consume daily. Perrins spoke about perception science, brain response, notable molecules and their reactions within the body, as well as why we experience things in certain ways. It was an afternoon filled with learning, laughter, delicious food, a little bit of mystery and a perfect reminder that science is found everywhere, especially where you least expect it.

the event concept to life. Wilson also extended her gratitude to everyone who attended the Secret Ingredient Luncheon and made the afternoon such a memorable experience for the society. Events like this would not be possible without the sponsors. Thank you to Chempure for sponsoring the wines and a prize for the best dressed guest. Another thanks goes to NativeChild Africa for hosting the registration desk, which helped Coschem welcome everyone to the event. •

A TOAST TO THE TEAM AND SPONSORS

Coschem – www.coschem.co.za

Thank you to SetteBello, Donovan Perrins and the chair of Coschem’s social committee, Tiffany Wilson, who brought

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2026

ASSOCIATION NEWS/SAAFFI

SAAFFI and Wits celebrate 2025 flavour & fragrance course graduates From the aroma of your morning coffee to the scent of your favourite shampoo, the flavour and fragrance industry shapes daily experiences in ways few consumers ever pause to consider. Behind this invisible influence sits a specialised field of science – and each year, a new group of graduates steps forward to carry it further. The latest cohort from the SAAFFI-Wits Flavour & Fragrance Technology Course recently gathered at Wits University to celebrate their course completion.

arlier this year in May, graduates, industry representatives, lecturers, family members and guests gathered in the Senate Room at Wits University – one of the institution’s most prestigious venues – to celebrate the successful completion of the 2025 SAAFFI-Wits Flavour & Fragrance Technology Course. Presented annually through the Wits School of Chemistry, the course, which is also available online, comprises 12 lectures and three practical sessions. It is offered to second year applied chemistry students at Wits University and is open to professionals from the flavour, fragrance and FMCG industries. Although South African-based, the programme has attracted participants from across the globe, including students from Chile.

GRATITUDE FOR SUPPLIER SUPPORT The flavour and fragrance industry may not always be visible to consumers, yet it plays an essential role in everyday life – from the scents in personal care and household products to the flavours that enhance foods and beverages. The 2025 graduating class included 25 Wits University students and 17 participants from industry. Graduates spoke enthusiastically about the value of the course and the inspiration it has given

The flavour and fragrance industry may not always be visible to consumers, yet it plays an essential role in everyday life

them to pursue careers within this dynamic and innovative sector. Special words of appreciation were extended to Shimadzu for its generous annual sponsorship, as well as to Mike Capon and Sensetek for sponsoring student prizes. Thanks were also expressed to course coordinators, Prof Maya Makatini and Dr Grace Ngubeni, and to the entire Wits School of Chemistry for their continued support and partnership. Recognition was given to the lecturers who contribute their time to the programme on a pro bono basis, the facilitators of the practical sessions, the SAAFFI management committee and the employers who support staff participation in the course.

A PLATFORM FOR COLLABORATION The programme featured a welcome address by Sharon Bolel, executive director of SAAFFI, followed by encouraging remarks from Dr Karina Rogers, chairperson of the SAAFFI management committee. Congratulations were also offered by Prof Dean Brady, former head of the Wits School of Chemistry, while graduating student Aadila Razak delivered a heartfelt speech on behalf of the class. Following the presentation of certificates, the top student awards, sponsored by Sensetek, were presented to Gabisile Mahlangu and Kgomotso Moeketsi. The evening concluded on a celebratory note, with guests enjoying refreshments and networking opportunities in honour of the graduates’ accomplishments. For more information about the 2026 SAAFFI-Wits Flavour & Fragrance Technology Course, please contact Sharon Bolel by sending an email to sharon@saaffi.co.za, or visit the SAAFFI website. • SAAFFI – www.saaffi.co.za

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Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review September 2026