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November 2025 Volume 52| Number 11

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Fragrance +

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New application lab for Brenntag SA

The science behind consumer appeal

Powerful ingredients for modern formulations

Digital innovation transforms quality control

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Contents www.pharmacos.co.za

5 News

Syensqo launches Easysoft PA A tribute to Professor Robert Summers BSB Innovation Award for Hydrolite 5 green

32 Beauty Ingredient Trends

26 Quality Assurance & Quality Control

NANSA® LSS 70 – a 1,4-Dioxane alternative

Digital innovation transforms QC practices at Hersol

7 powerful ingredients for modern formulations

Miele glasswashers: An efficient solution for South African labs

Swiss innovation meets South African expertise

30 Company Focus

42 Association News

Extrupet launches a new recycling plant in Cape Town

Sun smart: the science behind mineral UV filters

Clean-Up & Recycle SA Week a great success

10 Company Focus

Brenntag’s world-class formulation hub opens in SA

12 Fragrances & Perfumery Ingredients Moellhausen expands its presence in Africa Molecular scent mapping using AI Explore fragrance in the age of wellbeing Skin scents: Quiet luxury revisited Trends shaping the future of fragrance Heritage meets innovation at Natchem

10 WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2025

FROM THE EDITOR

The team EDITORIAL

A new chapter begins

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@media24.com LAYOUT & DESIGN: Andipha Nkoloti PRODUCTION CONTROLLER: Mandy Ackerman COVER IMAGE: gettyimages

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s we close out 2025, SA Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is navigating an exciting period of transition that reflects our magazine’s evolution and the natural rhythm of professional journeys. After two decades of dedicated service, our key account manager Carla Melless chose to take early retirement at the end of October. Carla’s contribution to P&C Review, P&C Review Africa and our brand extensions over the past 20 years has been invaluable. Her commitment to our clients and industry partners has helped shape the magazine into the trusted resource it is today. I extend my heartfelt gratitude to Carla and wish her all the best as she embarks on this well-deserved new chapter of rest and rejuvenation. I'm delighted to welcome Pepa Giesing to our team as our new key account manager. Pepa brings 20 years of experience and an impressive track record in B2B marketing and advertising, making her well positioned to continue building strong relationships our advertisers. To ensure a smooth transition, Pepa will work closely with me on P&C Review, P&C Review Africa and Formulation Design etc. Tumelo Sebitso will continue collecting material for all our digital platforms, whilst Mandy Ackerman remains as production controller across P&C Review, Formulation Design, Packaging Review and P&C Review Africa. As always, I am available to guide clients and readers, and to answer any of your questions. I hope you enjoy our Nov/Dec edition and have a good rest during the festive season.

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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2025 // W W W.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by Novus Print, Cape Town Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

NEWS/SPONSORED CONTENT

Syensqo launches Easysoft PA to enhance fabric softeners Syensqo expands its portfolio of bio-based solutions for home care with the launch of Easysoft PA, a novel fabric softener additive designed to enhance consumers’ sensorial experience. This advanced polymer technology enables fabric softeners to deliver long-lasting fragrance and softness benefits, both sustainably and effectively. Fragrance has long been recognised as the top purchase driver in fabric care, shaping consumer loyalty and creating opportunities for differentiation. Easysoft PA addresses this trend by enabling efficient scent delivery and improving fragrance deposition from fabric softeners, ensuring the long-lasting freshness that consumers desire.

“Easysoft PA hits the sweet spot of the cost-performancesustainability equation,” says Max Chabert, home care global marketing manager at Syensqo. “By enabling formulators to efficiently deliver superior fragrance and softness, we are empowering fabric softener brands to respond to consumer demands while capturing opportunities for premiumisation.” Easysoft PA is based on Syensqo’s proprietary guarbased polymer technology, which is engineered to deliver exceptional benefits at low inclusion levels. This innovation enables formulators to: • Reduce quat content while maintaining or enhancing softness, yielding carbon and cost efficiencies. • Improve the fragrance performance of oils and encapsulates, offering consumers a richer sensorial experience while providing consistent rheology and stable formulations. Versatility across concentrations is another key advantage. From low concentration to ultra-concentrated fabric softener, Easysoft PA is compatible with all formats, providing brands with a flexible solution adaptable to diverse market segments. With Easysoft PA, Syensqo once again reaffirms its commitment to sustainable innovation that enhances everyday experiences for consumers while driving efficiency and value for the industry. The novel fabric softener additive is now available in South Africa.

GUAR-BASED TECHNOLOGY TO IMPROVE FRAGRANCE DEPOSITION At the heart of Easysoft PA is Syensqo’s unique guar-based polymer technology. In liquid softeners, it works together with softening ingredients to create microscopic ‘patches’ on fabric fibres. These act as anchors for fragrance oils and capsules, helping scent last longer after drying.

Easysoft PA hits the sweet spot of the cost-performancesustainability equation Syensqo – www.syensqo.com/en WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2025

NEWS

A global leader in Fragrance & Beauty, Givaudan is proud to announce the opening of its new White Biotechnology Innovation Centre (BIC) in Toulouse, France. This state-of-the-art site strengthens the company’s capabilities, advancing research and development, and accelerating the creation of high-precision beauty ingredients. Positioned within Givaudan’s biotechnology R&D and innovation ecosystem, the site will work in synergy with the other centres in Orsay and in Pomacle. Givaudan Active Beauty imagines, designs and creates iconic molecules that consumers love – leveraging biotechnology to deliver exceptional results. The BIC in Toulouse will feature cutting-edge laboratories that consolidate Givaudan’s expertise in white biotechnology, including a dedicated fermentation lab and biocatalysis development area. New scientific concepts can be efficiently scaled up and transformed into next-generation ingredients. Gilles Andrier, CEO of Givaudan said: “Opening the White Biotechnology Innovation Centre in Toulouse is a milestone in Givaudan’s strategy to pioneer sustainable and scientifically supported cosmetic ingredients. This new centre reinforces our global footprint, enhancing collaboration across our different sites to co-create the future of beauty, in line with Givaudan’s 2030 strategy.” Markus Rassmann, head of Active Beauty adds: “This Innovation Centre is designed to foster teamwork and creativity between marketing and R&D. It will allow us to service our customers with original and award-winning innovative ingredient solutions.” Built with sustainability and innovation at its core, this new site in Toulouse enhances Givaudan’s collaborative capabilities, advancing the future of beauty through nature and science.

A tribute to a remarkable academic – Professor Robert Summers One of the remaining honorary members of the SA Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Prof Rob Summers died peacefully at his home on 22 September. He is survived by his wife Prof Beverley Summers, their three sons Neil, Andrew and Matthew, their daughter, Kate, and five grandchildren. Rob Summers was the Emeritus Professor of Pharmacy at the Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University (SMU), formerly the Medical University of Southern Africa (MEDUNSA). He was born and schooled in Rhodesia, now Zimbabwe, and obtained his bachelor’s and master’s degrees in pharmacy at Rhodes University, followed by his PhD from the University of Bradford in the UK. He was, in succession, Head of the Schools of Pharmacy at the University of the North, University of Zimbabwe, and MEDUNSA, the latter of which he founded in 1983. Under his guidance, the School of Pharmacy at MEDUNSA became the only School in the country to offer pharmacy training from Pharmacists Assistant level to PhD. He also, with his wife and colleague Beverley, founded the Photobiology Laboratory at MEDUNSA which pioneered sunscreen testing in South Africa and went on to offer a range of safety and efficacy tests for products locally and internationally. He was well known in health and pharmaceutical services management. He chaired or Professor Robert Summers vice-chaired several provincial and national committees, including the National Essential Drugs (30 March 1940 – 22 September 2025) List Committees for Primary Health Care and for Hospitals. He advised the National Department of Health on matters relevant to registration, production, procurement and distribution, and overall management of pharmaceuticals. Rob Summers published over 400 research papers, research reports, articles, books and chapters. He was a lateral thinker and had a sharp wit. He lived a full life and was active almost to the end, graduating his last PhD student in May this year. He had a life well-lived and leaves a strong legacy. May he rest in peace. Obituary contributed by Profs Hannelie Meyer and Beverley Summers

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2025 // W W W.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

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New white biotechnology innovation centre for Givaudan

NEWS

Hydrolite® 5 green receives BSB Innovation Award recognition

Symrise has earned first prize in the raw materials category of the renowned BSB Innovation Award ‘Environment’. These awards honour pioneering solutions that positively impact the environment. This year’s jury recognised Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients’ pentylene glycol – Hydrolite® 5 green – for its exceptional performance and outstanding sustainability credentials.

Hydrolite® 5 green has long been recognised as a best-in-class ingredient in applications such as hair care and skincare The BSB Innovation Award ‘Environment’ recognises the growing importance of environmentally responsible solutions in the cosmetics industry – an area where Symrise continues to lead. In particular, the ingredient stands out by adhering to the 12 principles of green chemistry. Symrise produces Hydrolite® 5 green from 100% renewable and readily biodegradable raw materials. These upcycled sources include sugarcane bagasse, a by-product of sugar

refining, and corncobs from agricultural byproducts. ProTerra has certified both raw materials in addition to wood pulp from FSC and PEFC certified wood processing activities. With Hydrolite® 5 green already offering a low carbon footprint and low waste generation, Symrise underlines its commitment to continuous process optimisations across both dimensions. The production process also reduces water and energy consumption during production, delivering the same high-quality solution with even less impact on the environment. Hydrolite® 5 green has long been recognised as a best-in-class ingredient in applications such as hair care and skincare. It offers excellent pigment dispersion, solubilisation, stabilisation, transparency, and emulsion particle size reduction. In 2025, Symrise opened a new production unit in Granada, Spain, which builds on the success of the Hydrolite® 5 green production site in Charleston, South Carolina. This expansion is strengthening the pentylene glycol supply chain and enables Symrise to serve customers in Europe with greater speed, flexibility and reliability. “We are proud that Hydrolite® 5 green has been recognised by BSB for its environmental innovation in raw materials,” says Francoise MichelSalaun, category director, micro protection. “By harnessing upcycled sources, as well as opening a new production facility, we’re making significant progress. We also want to improve the sustainability performance of Hydrolite® 5 green while continuously delivering the same high-quality pentylene glycol to our customers.”

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2025

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Formulating beauty In 18 Innovation & Application Centres worldwide, our dedicated and passionate teams are there to support you with all Beauty & Personal Care projects.

We offer: • formulation development and support • rheological analyses • stability tests • sensory assessment Connect with us: personalcare@brenntag-emea.com

COMPANY FOCUS

World-class formulation hub opens doors in SA

The space is designed to encourage collaboration and innovation

Brenntag Specialties South African state-of-the-art Beauty & Care Innovation & Application Centre promises to revolutionise product development for Africa’s cosmetics and personal care industry.

n September, Brenntag Specialties launched its new Beauty & Care Innovation & Application Centre in Johannesburg, marking a significant milestone for the country’s personal care and cosmetics manufacturing industry. The state-of-the-art facility represents a major investment and commitment to the South African market as it is positioned as a key innovation hub within Brenntag’s global network of 17 Beauty & Personal Care formulation application centres.

EMPOWERING LOCAL INNOVATION THROUGH GLOBAL EXPERTISE The launch comes at a critical time for South Africa’s beauty and personal care industry. Local brands have been increasingly seeking

ways to compete with international brands whilst developing products tailored for local markets. Speaking at the facility’s opening, Michael Wilkop, Brenntag Specialties’ regional president Beauty & Care EMEA, emphasised the strategic importance of the innovation centre: “When you are in the specialities business and specifically in beauty and personal care, success extends beyond sourcing quality ingredients and maintaining proper documentation. It fundamentally requires demonstrating comprehensive formulation expertise and innovation support.” This philosophy underpins the centre’s mission to bridge the gap between raw materials supply and finished product

The centre bridges the gap between raw materials supply and finished product development development. For SMEs, local brands and formulators, this means access to cuttingedge technology and expertise that was previously only available through expensive overseas partnerships or investments in dedicated R&D facilities.

ADVANCED EQUIPMENT FOR PRECISION FORMULATION

Morgan Govender, senior director BSP Sub-Saharan Africa, with Michael Wilkop and Kreason Gopalan at the official ribbon cutting of the new Beauty & Care Innovation & Application Centre

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2025 // W W W.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

The Beauty & Care Innovation & Application Centre in South Africa boasts an impressive array of analytical and formulation equipment. The centre is designed to meet the diverse needs of South Africa’s beauty and personal care brands. At the heart of the facility lies a Brookfield RSX Coaxial Cylinder Rheometer, capable of dynamic viscosity profiling across an extensive range of 0.004kPas to 354kPas. This sophisticated instrument enables formulators to conduct yield point determination, thixotropic analysis and creep recovery testing – essential capabilities for developing everything from luxury skincare emulsions to highperformance hair care products. Complementing the rheological analysis

COMPANY FOCUS

capabilities is a CTX Texture Analyser from Brookfield. It is equipped with multiple probes and fixtures for evaluating compression, tension and spreadability characteristics. For local manufacturers developing products for the African market, this equipment provides crucial insights into how formulations will perform under local climatic conditions and consumer usage patterns. The centre’s formulation capabilities are equally impressive. A Silverson L5 homogeniser delivers high shear mixing, whilst overhead stirrers provide low to medium shear mixing capabilities. These tools enable chemists to scale laboratory formulations with confidence.

COMPREHENSIVE TESTING AND SENSORY EVALUATIONS Stability testing is a cornerstone of the centre’s capabilities, with protocols designed to evaluate products under storage conditions ranging from 4°C to 40°C. For manufacturers targeting the diverse African market, this temperature range testing is invaluable for ensuring product integrity across varied climatic zones. Emulsion stability testing utilises centrifugation up to 4 000rpm, providing accelerated insights into long-term product performance. This capability is particularly relevant for manufacturers developing oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions for the African market, where temperature fluctuations and extended supply chains can challenge product stability. Brenntag’s Beauty & Care Innovation & Application Centre also features specialised fragrance evaluation capabilities, with panel testing conducted in a controlled environment using a Vividair fume extraction cabinet. This addresses a critical need in the South African market, where fragrance preferences often differ significantly from international offerings.

SUPPORTING SME GROWTH AND INNOVATION Kreason Gopalan, regional commercial director Sub-Saharan Africa, Brenntag Specialties Beauty & Personal Care EMEA, highlighted the role of the new centre in democratising innovation: “The laboratory facilities we have established will provide our customers, particularly small to medium-sized enterprises,

with enhanced opportunities for innovation and product development.” This focus on SMEs represents a paradigm shift for the industry. Previously, advanced formulation capabilities were largely the preserve of multinational corporations with dedicated R&D budgets. The new centre levels the playing field, enabling emerging South African brands to access world-class formulation expertise and analytical capabilities. “Our approach involves transforming basic formulations into highly specialised products through the application of our advanced equipment and technical capabilities,” Gopalan explained. This capability is particularly significant for local brands seeking to differentiate themselves in an increasingly competitive marketplace.

Brenntag South Africa’s Beauty & Care team welcomed customers to the launch event

COLLABORATIVE INNOVATION MODEL The centre operates on a collaborative model, with plans to host interactive seminars and to foster hands-on engagement between Brenntag’s technical experts and local formulators. “Our objective is to provide comprehensive support services that connect the various stakeholders throughout the value chain. We maintain a clear competitive advantage in the market, which serves as a key point of differentiation for Brenntag Beauty & Care,” said Wilkop. The centre’s connection to Brenntag’s global network ensures that South African formulators have access to international trends and innovations. “The new Beauty & Care Innovation & Application Centre in South Africa is part of Brenntag’s global network – the next solution is just a phone call away,” Wilkop added.

ECONOMIC IMPACT AND FUTURE GROWTH Beyond its immediate technical capabilities, the Beauty & Care Innovation & Application Centre in South Africa represents a significant investment in the country’s manufacturing future. The facility is expected to drive revenue growth across the Sub-Saharan African region whilst creating employment opportunities both directly within the centre and indirectly through supporting customer growth. For local cosmetic chemists, formulators and manufacturers,

Brenntag Specialties’ centre offers an unprecedented opportunity to access world-class capabilities whilst developing products specifically tailored for African consumers. The combination of advanced analytical equipment, formulation expertise and global connectivity positions South Africa’s beauty and personal care industry for substantial growth in the coming years. •

DID YOU KNOW The Johannesburg Centre is the newest out of 71 Brenntag Specialties centres located globally and adds to the Brenntag Personal Care Centres in Essen (Germany), Lille (France), Leeds (UK) and Istanbul (Turkey) in the EMEA region.

Brenntag Specialties, South Africa – www.brenntag.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2025

FRAGRANCES & PERFUMERY INGREDIENTS

New fragrance innovation hub opens in Gauteng

Moellhausen is expanding its presence in Africa with a new strategic office in Midrand, Gauteng.

ocated between Johannesburg and Pretoria, Moellhausen is opening a new strategic office, taking a significant step forward with its commitment to Southern Africa. This expansion, which will be finalised by the end of this year, reflects the company’s exceptional growth in the South African market, where it first established its presence in 2013. Moellhausen initially focused on the high-end fragrance sector before strategically broadening its portfolio in 2021 to include additional product categories, such as hair care and bath and body care, as well as household and laundry products, automotive products and air care, including diffuser and candle fragrances. The South African team operates under the supervision of a specialised regional manager based in Dubai and currently includes a country manager; a sales executive with extensive expertise in formulation design, ingredients and industry regulations; a sales and product marketing executive with in-depth knowledge of consumer insights, research and regional trends; and customer sales support.

Andrea Ghezzi Perego and Anthony Moellhausen

EXCELLENCE MEETS CUSTOMER NEEDS Moellhausen’s new facility is located within the International Business Gateway, covering nearly 300m². The office is situated at 3 Celtis Place, 13 Challenger Road, International Business Gateway, at the corner of 6th and New Road, Midrand. The office space serves as a key creative and strategic centre: • It will host customers for olfactory workshops, strategy sessions and marketing presentations. • The local fragrance library ensures fast responses to sampling requests. • It will serve as a base for focus groups aimed at gaining deeper insight into local trends in beauty, food, fashion and fragrance preferences.

Moellhausen’s success in South Africa is amplified by its GLOBAL SYNERGY BETWEEN ITALY, DUBAI AND SA global network Moellhausen’s success in South Africa is The high-precision automatic compounder Roxane at Moellhausen DU.IT Creative Centre

amplified by its global network. The local team forms a direct bridge between the customer service departments in Dubai and Italy, as well as with the company’s broad creative and production expertise. A key element of this synergy is Moellhausen’s new DU•IT Creative Centre, inaugurated in Dubai earlier this year. Covering over 1 500m², this hub develops exclusive fragrances specifically tailored to the South African market.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2025 // W W W.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Anthony Moellhausen, CEO of the company, explains: “Our corporate philosophy, encapsulated in the motto ‘DU•IT’ or ‘DO IT,’ means acting decisively and being present.” Andrea Ghezzi Perego, president of Moellhausen, adds: “The opening of the new office in Midrand is not just a physical point of contact but a confirmation of our commitment to establishing direct and ongoing relationships with our clients in Africa. This investment, strengthened by our creative hub in Dubai, represents our promise to transform local trends into global olfactory successes, bringing Italian excellence closer than ever.”

Moellhausen’s offices

Moellhausen – one of the world’s leading historic, family owned businesses in the flavour and fragrance industry – combines the excellence of Made in Italy with the rich olfactory traditions of every region. With its new hub in Midrand, Moellhausen reaffirms its commitment to turning creativity into success in the dynamic African market. •

Moellhausen – www.moellhausen.com

F&F Materials

FRAGRANCES & PERFUMERY INGREDIENTS

Molecular scent mapping using AI What does vanilla smell like compared to musk? What do citrus fragrances have in common at the molecular level? Leipzig-based Bell Flavors & Fragrances is turning to AI to answer these questions.

image: gettyimages

he company aims to accelerate fragrance development using AIdriven tools to make the process more targeted, efficient, and sustainable. The system is built on several interconnected AI components, each handling a specific task in the fragrance development process – among them a molecule encoder, a formulation optimiser, and a digital scent map. Together, they analyse chemical structures, sensory descriptions and formulation data. With every application, the AI continues to learn and delivers increasingly precise suggestions for new fragrance compositions.

A NEW LANGUAGE FOR SCENT A central element of the project is an AIpowered scent map designed to translate

sensory impressions and chemical structures into a coherent system. While sounds are described by frequency and colours by wavelength, no comparable framework yet exists for smells. The AI learns which molecules are perceived as similar – and visualises these relationships. The result is a digital map that helps navigate the world of scent and provides a valuable foundation for more targeted fragrance development. “AI helps us better understand the connection between scent and chemical structure. It processes large volumes of data, and we train it to present the results as a kind of map,” explains project lead Peter Fichtelmann, who is pursuing his doctorate at Leipzig University with Bell as an industry partner.

SMARTER FORMULATIONS, FASTER TO MARKET Training the AI relies on a rich dataset drawn from Bell’s decades of perfumery expertise – including thousands of fragrance formulations and detailed olfactory descriptions. These are enhanced by structured feedback from internal sensory teams, who document how new scents are experienced before they reach customers. “AI enables us to make our development processes more efficient and precise,” says Bell CEO, Holger Wetzler. “This gives our mediumsized clients a real edge. With data-driven formulation suggestions, they can respond to market shifts more quickly and effectively.” Bell is developing its AI-based fragrance tools in close collaboration with the scientific community. • Bell Flavors & Fragrances – bellff.com

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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2025 // W W W.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

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FRAGRANCES & PERFUMERY INGREDIENTS

Fragrance in the age of wellbeing The role of scent in shaping emotional behaviours has become exceptionally relevant. CPL Aromas, a global fragrance house, is responding to this trend with its AromaWellness innovation.

he current consumer trend is driven by a shift towards holistic wellness. Factors such as increasing mental health awareness, the demand for a better

facial expression analysis, heart rate monitoring, galvanic skin response (GSR), electroencephalogram (EEG), eye tracking and neurocognitive testing. These tools allow

Brands working with CPL Aromas can incorporate AromaWellness fragrance into their formulations and make scientifically substantiated claims such

work-life balance and the strained healthcare systems have propelled people to explore preventative and lifestyle-based approaches to health. Amid this change, the role of sensory stimuli and scent especially has gained popularity. Scent is uniquely tied to the limbic system, which is the brain’s emotional control centre. Its capacity to trigger memories and emotions is unmatched by any other sense. While aromatherapy has long acknowledged these effects, many of its claims have lacked scientific backing – until now.

CPL Aromas to quantify how specific scents influence emotions such as happiness, relaxation, alertness and positivity.

as ‘this product contains CPL Aromas’ Happy AromaWellness scent proven to increase happiness’.

THE SCIENCE BEHIND SCENT

APPLICATIONS AND OPPORTUNITIES

AromaWellness captures the multidimensional nature of emotions whether it is expressive, visceral and/or subjective. For example, micro-expressions (involuntary facial movements) are recorded and analysed to determine unconscious emotional reactions. Eye-tracking evaluates engagement and emotional association, while GSR and EEG provide insights into physiological and cognitive states. Each scent undergoes rigorous testing through dedicated protocols. This approach ensures that the claims made by AromaWellness fragrances are rooted in scientific evidence.

Available in South Africa from IMCD, AromaWellness fragrances can be integrated into a wide range of consumer products, from fine fragrances and candles to personal care and home cleaning. The use of CPL Aromas' innovation allows brands to design specific fragrances for their consumers – whether the goal is to calm anxiety, enhance focus, or elevate mood. Furthermore, by including AromaWellness in product messaging and packaging, brands can connect with wellness-conscious consumers who seek performance and purpose from their purchases.

WHERE SCENT AND EMOTION CONVERGE AromaWellness is CPL Aromas’ state-ofthe-art technology that merges traditional perfumery with cutting-edge neuroscience and biometric research. Designed to explore the cross between scent and emotion, AromaWellness enables the development of fragrances that are not only pleasant but also have a beneficial function. This innovative platform is equipped with biosensors that measure emotional responses to fragrance. The AromaWellness technology uses multiple methods, including

Claims made by AromaWellness fragrances are rooted in scientific evidence 16

SETTING A NEW INDUSTRY STANDARD As the wellness movement reshapes beauty, personal care and home fragrance markets, consumer demand for products with functional benefits will continue to grow. Several brands have entered the space by promoting mood-enhancing scents. But often these brands rely on generic aromatherapy concepts rather than having scientific substantiation. What sets CPL Aromas apart is its commitment to directly testing its fragrance compositions, rather than relying on assumed benefits of individual ingredients. This positions AromaWellness as a trusted innovation in an over-claimed market.

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LOOKING AHEAD Today’s consumers are more informed and inquisitive than ever. They seek transparency, scientific backing and multifunctionality in the products they choose. Fragrances that promise more than just a pleasant smell are rapidly gaining traction. The trend is clear: fragrance is entering a new era – one where its role extends from sensory indulgence to functional wellbeing. For perfumers, developers and marketers, this represents an exciting opportunity to innovate with purpose, supported by science and guided by the needs of consumers. •

CPL Aromas – cplaromas.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdsa.co.za

A state-of-the-art technology studying the connection between fragrances and emotions. Why choose AromaWellness? • A platform fully equipped with biosensors and state-of-the-art technology to capture the changes in moods and behaviours. • Scientiﬁcally proven performance. • Unique fragrance blends. • Testing can be achieved through various methods to suit diﬀerent applications.

Scan to explore AromaWellness brochure.

FRAGRANCES & PERFUMERY INGREDIENTS

Skin scents: Quiet luxury revisited In recent years, quiet beauty has taken the world by storm and has since become a standard of luxury for those looking for an alternative to the flashy, unapologetic trends in the fragrance industry. Neptuno Rodríguez, marketing manager at Iberchem

he world of luxury continues to adapt to the changes seen in global trends. Classic fragrances and scents remain a priority among those who prefer subtlety and minimalism over opulence. “This preference aligns with the rising ‘skin scent’ trend, where fragrances are designed to enhance the natural scent of your skin, giving the feeling that they are a part of you instead of wearing a fragrance,” says Neptuno Rodríguez, marketing manager at Iberchem.

the term skin scent garnering around 5.3 million views on popular social media platforms.

SUBTLE SOPHISTICATION “Skin scents focus on quality, not strength. Light notes of aldehydes, musks and soft florals create a fragrance that enhances rather than dominates,” says Neptuno. “It’s a quiet style that appeals to those who value ‘less is more’ elegance.”

REFINEMENT OVER OSTENTATION The skin scent trend has its roots in the ‘quiet luxury’ movement, known for capsule wardrobes with timeless, understated pieces and minimalist Scandinavian interiors. In beauty, it first showed up with the ‘no-makeup’ makeup look and clean skincare. The fragrance industry followed, moving away from strong, sweet scents toward lighter formulas that feel personal, subtle and effortlessly chic. With skin scents, the compliment is “you smell good” instead of “your perfume smells good” and is one of the most talked about trends online, with

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Iberchem perfumer, Thomas Espinasse

Skin scents focus on quality, not strength

FRAGRANCES & PERFUMERY INGREDIENTS

Thanks to their clean, soapy and powdery facets, aldehydes are the star ingredient in skin scents. The proof is in the product – the iconic Chanel No. 5 is known for its aldehyde content. A more recent example of skin scents perfumes is Missing Person by Phlur. A delicate fragrance that is meant to evoke the lingering scent of your lover’s skin, Missing Person has since become a modern hit thanks to its delicate and familiar notes. It has also inspired other fragrances, which highlight natural and clean skin.

A SILENT FRAGRANCE SPEAKS VOLUMES In recent years, fragrance house Iberchem introduced Espace |__| Libre, a fragrance concept dedicated to quiet beauty, quiet luxury and minimalism. Simple yet captivating, the collection offers an oasis of calm and sophistication, highlighting the finest natural ingredients and embracing the elegance of simple formulations. “Quiet luxury represents simplicity and purity in perfume. Simplicity in perfume means focusing on the essential,” says

Thomas Espinasse, one of the collection’s perfumers.

olfactory characteristics and beauty to the perfume”.

“In perfume creation, a simple formula highlights the importance of each ingredient. It means expressing the ideas that will be experienced in a perfume using as few ingredients as possible,” Thomas explains. “In other words, making sure that each raw material brings its own unique

A silent statement that screams volumes, minimalist fans opt to embody the less-ismore ideal. More than a fleeting social media fascination, skin scents represent a longerterm shift in how consumers define luxury. • Iberchem – iberchem.com

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FRAGRANCES & PERFUMERY INGREDIENTS

Mood, function and identity shape the future of fragrance The world of perfumery is undergoing one of its most exciting transformations in decades. No longer confined to a single spritz on the wrist, fragrance has evolved into a holistic sensory language that speaks to emotion, wellbeing and individuality.

he boundaries between fine fragrance, personal care and skincare are dissolving, creating a new space where scent becomes both an experience and a form of self-expression. For Natchem, this shift presents a powerful opportunity to connect innovation, emotion and sustainability through the science of fragrance. By blending the art of olfaction with consumer insight, the company helps brands reimagine how people experience scent in their daily lives.

This idea of functional fragrance – a scent designed to enhance emotional wellbeing – is capturing the imagination of people across the world. Whether it is a bright citrus note to spark motivation, soft florals to calm the senses, or gourmand blends that evoke comfort and nostalgia, fragrance is increasingly used as a daily mood enhancer. The question is no longer “what are you wearing?” but rather, “how do you want to feel today”?

FRAGRANCE AS AN EMOTIONAL BOOSTER

The international fragrance products market was valued at over $54 billion in 2023 and is forecast to expand by more than 5% annually over the next decade. The perfume and fragrance category specifically is expected to reach between $112 billion and $119 billion by 2030, demonstrating the strong appetite for fragrances that connect with emotion and personality. The online fragrance channel grew by more than 37 % between 2022 and 2023, proving that scent has become a lifestyle expression shared across digital spaces. Brands are responding with curated ‘collections of emotions’ and fragrance wardrobes designed to match every feeling and occasion. The rise of gourmand-inspired scents – including caramel, vanilla, chocolate and honey – adds another layer of emotional connection. Once considered playful and sweet, these comforting foundations are being reinterpreted with sophistication through the addition

images: gettyimages

One of the most significant shifts in the fragrance landscape is the growing desire for mood-based perfumery. Modern consumers no longer choose a fragrance purely because it smells pleasant; they choose it because of how it makes them feel.

GLOBAL MARKET TRENDS

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Fragrance is, at its core, a deeply human experience of fruits, spices and woods to create indulgent yet refined profiles. Natchem has observed a growing interest in mood-enhancing fragrance technologies. The supplier has access to a wide range of highquality ingredients through its international partners and can translate emotion into scent.

THE NATURAL WELLNESS REVOLUTION As wellness becomes a cornerstone of modern beauty, fragrance is taking on a new role – one that bridges emotional and physical wellbeing. Consumers are increasingly drawn to formulations that not only delight the senses but also offer a sense of purpose, harmony and connection with nature. Functional ingredients play an essential part in this movement. Herbs, spices and botanicals, once confined to aromatherapy, are finding a place within fine fragrance and personal care. Notes such as rosemary, sage, basil and ginger are being combined with delicate florals or vibrant citrus to create naturally inspired compositions that suggest vitality and balance. Fragrance-infused skincare and solid perfumes are also gaining popularity, merging scent with skincare benefits such as hydration,

FRAGRANCES & PERFUMERY INGREDIENTS

PACKAGING EVOLVES TO SUPPORT SUSTAINABILITY

DID YOU KNOW? Social media movements such as #PerfumeTok have accelerated the functional fragrances trend, transforming how consumers share scent rituals and emotional associations. Generation Z is driving this trend, treating fragrance as an invisible accessory that reflects creativity and individuality.

rejuvenation and protection. These hybrid formats appeal to consumers who want sensory pleasure without unnecessary complexity in their routines.

image: gettyimages

GROWING INTEREST IN AFRICAN BOTANICALS Africa’s aromatic heritage is playing an increasingly important role in the wellness trend. Global and local consumers are discovering the richness of the continent’s natural palette. Ingredients such as marula, rooibos, buchu and fynbos are celebrated for their cultural stories as well as their distinctive olfactive character. In the Southern African region, fragrance demand continues to rise in tandem with the growth of the beauty and personal care sectors. The South African perfume market alone was valued at approximately $86 million in 2024, representing one of the fastest-growing segments in the personal care category. Broader flavour and fragrance activity within South Africa is expected to grow from around $250 million in 2025 to $430 million by 2033. This upward trajectory mirrors the global trend, where consumers increasingly seek products that combine scent with wellbeing and sustainability. Natchem is proud to collaborate with partners who share this vision, offering responsibly sourced and sustainable fragrance materials that reflect the biodiversity and authenticity of Africa. Ingredients such as upcycled botanicals and lab-grown musks are emerging as elegant solutions for a more

conscientious market. The outcome is a new generation of fragrances that are as kind to the planet as they are to the wearer.

THE RISE OF PERSONAL IDENTITY THROUGH SCENT The modern fragrance consumer does not wish to be confined by traditional gender labels. The notion that certain scents are intended specifically for men or women is rapidly disappearing. Today’s buyers embrace fragrance as a fluid and personal choice, an extension of who they are and how they wish to express themselves. Unisex or gender-inclusive fragrances are now a major growth category. They are often built around balanced compositions that pair warm woody bases with soft floral or musky overlays. This inclusivity allows fragrance to become a universal language of individuality and connection. The ritual of fragrance layering is also becoming popular. Consumers enjoy combining oils, sprays and creams to create their own signature scent. The concept of a ‘fragrance wardrobe’ – a collection of scents worn for different moods or occasions – perfectly embodies this new era of personalisation. It is playful, expressive and deeply human. Natchem’s formulation expertise supports this creative freedom. Its broad range of fragrance formats, from body mists and scented oils to solid perfumes and hair fragrances, enables brands to design multi-sensory experiences that encourage experimentation.

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As new fragrance formats emerge, packaging innovation is evolving to support them. Consumers are increasingly aware of the environmental impact of their beauty products, which is spurring demand for refillable, recyclable and minimalist packaging solutions. Brands are exploring glass alternatives, biodegradable resins and reusable metal components. The rise of smaller, travel-friendly formats such as solid perfumes and scented balms also help to reduce packaging. For suppliers such as Natchem, sustainability is not merely a product feature but a guiding principle. From sourcing to formulation, the company is committed to reducing its environmental impact while maintaining performance and luxury.

FRAGRANCE REMAINS A DEEPLY HUMAN EXPERIENCE The fragrance industry is at a crossroads where emotion, technology and sustainability intersect. From smart scent devices that adapt fragrance intensity in real time to laboratory designed naturals that protect biodiversity, the possibilities are expanding. Yet even as innovation accelerates, one truth remains constant: fragrance is, at its core, a deeply human experience. It connects memory, emotion and identity in ways that few other products can achieve. As Natchem continues to collaborate with visionary partners around the world, its mission to empower brands to tell their stories through scent remains clear. By combining scientific expertise with creative artistry, Natchem is helping shape the next chapter of perfumery, defined by emotion, function and conscious beauty. Fragrance is more than what one wears; it is how one feels, lives and connects with the world. • REFERENCES: 1. Global Market Insights. Fragrance Product Market Report 2024 – 2032. 2. Business Research Insights. Perfume and Fragrance Market Forecast 2025 – 2034. 3. Fortune Business Insights. Global Perfume Market Analysis 2024 – 2032. 4. Mordor Intelligence. Fragrance and Perfume Market Growth Report 2025 – 2030. 5. Market Growth Reports. Fragrances Market – Global Trends 2023. 6. 6W Research. South Africa Fragrance and Perfume Market Report 2024 – 2031. 7. Verified Market Reports. Flavours and Fragrances Market Outlook – South Africa. 8. IndexBox. South Africa Perfumes and Toilet Waters Market Forecast 2024 – 2030.

Natchem – www.natchem.co.za

11 / 15 Bundo Rd. Sebenza Edenvale Gauteng www.natchem.co.za 010 010 6174 +27 82 331 4508

COMPANY FOCUS

Heritage meets innovation at Natchem After nearly two decades of steady guidance, Natchem is entering an exciting new chapter. Margaret Price, who alongside her husband Byron Price, shaped the company’s culture and values, has stepped back from her guiding role, passing the torch to David Stockenstrom. It’s a transition that perfectly captures what Natchem represents: honouring the past while boldly embracing the future.

or years, Margaret’s positive influence helped define the values of Natchem – trust, integrity, and genuine care for its partners. Although her role was more of a guiding presence than an operational one, her impact on the company culture has been profound. Now, with David’s return after four years since establishing Natchem Botswana, the company is combining that solid foundation with fresh thinking and modern approaches. David’s leadership brings something special to the table. His experience developing Natchem’s Botswana operations has given him deep insights into regional markets and the unique challenges manufacturers face across Southern Africa. “We remain firmly rooted in our heritage whilst embracing digital progress, sustainability and the creative demands of contemporary manufacturers,” says the Natchem team. This underlines the company’s genuine commitment to evolution without losing its identity. David’s approach combines modern thinking with deep understanding of regional markets, positioning Natchem to create meaningful opportunities across Southern Africa. His focus on regional collaboration and market development has already begun strengthening partnerships with suppliers and formulators. The goal is clear: build an ecosystem focused on shared growth, education and sustainability, which benefits everyone in the value chain.

image: gettyimages

MAKING PROGRESS AS A STRATEGIC PARTNER Gone are the days when Natchem was simply a fragrance supplier. Today, the company has transformed into a comprehensive solutions partner, offering everything from premium ingredients to packaging solutions. This evolution reflects years of careful development and strategic thinking about what manufacturers really need. The company’s product range now spans fragrance oils, cosmetic actives, botanical extracts, and functional ingredients for personal care, home care and industrial applications. Today Natchem offers a

Natchem offers a complete basket of solutions that help manufacturers succeed complete basket of solutions that help manufacturers succeed. Take its Natural EVERCLEAR ethanol, for example. This isn’t just another ingredient – it’s a premium sustainable ethanol specifically designed for perfumery and cosmetics. Long recognised across the region, it exemplifies Natchem’s commitment to quality and sustainability. Similarly, the company’s extensive packaging range has become a trusted resource for brands in need of reliable, high-quality options.

THE GREENTECH ADVANTAGE Natchem’s partnership with Greentech has been particularly transformative. As the regional supplier for this world-renowned biotechnology pioneer, Natchem now offers manufacturers access to advanced plant, marine and microbial

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extracts. The product range includes proven, environmentally responsible actives with anti-ageing, soothing, protective, brightening, exfoliating and moisturising benefits. Greentech’s biotechnology applied to nature represents the cutting edge of sustainable ingredient development. The supplier’s extracts enhance Natchem’s portfolio with natural actives that align perfectly with current formulation trends and the rising demand for proven, environmentally responsible ingredients. “We’re empowering manufacturers and entrepreneurs to grow, compete and create responsibly,” the Natchem team explains. “It’s about combining technical expertise with real market insight.”

UNDERSTANDING MARKET REALITIES South Africa’s cosmetics and personal care industry is currently valued at around $3.9 billion, with growth projections exceeding $5 billion by 2030. Across the broader SADC region, forecasts suggest the market could soon approach $10 billion. This represents dynamic growth, which brings both opportunity and complexity. But Natchem knows that growth figures only tell part of the story. Real success comes from understanding the daily realities manufacturers face: rising import costs, regulatory hurdles, supply chain disruptions, and increasingly

COMPANY FOCUS

sophisticated consumer demands for natural, ethical and environmentally conscious products. As consumer preferences shift towards these increasingly conscious choices, manufacturers face mounting pressure to innovate responsibly. Global supply chain disruptions have also made agility and local partnerships more important than ever.

GLOBAL SOLUTIONS ALIGNED WITH LOCAL NEEDS What sets Natchem apart isn’t just its product range or global partnerships – it is the company’s unique blend of international reach and local understanding. Natchem has evolved from a trusted raw material supplier into a strategic innovation partner across the beauty, fragrance, home care and industrial markets. Its strength lies in balancing tradition with progress, maintaining reliability whilst embracing creativity and flexibility. Through long-standing global partnerships, Natchem connects local manufacturers with worldclass ingredients and advanced formulation technologies. These collaborations enable the company to offer solutions that are both cutting-edge and aligned with the realities of Southern African production. Backed by the expertise of international principals, Natchem’s experienced team works

GROWTH DRIVEN BY VALUES The values Byron and Margaret Price instilled many years ago remain central to everything Natchem does: authenticity, collaboration, and community come first. From Mandela Day initiatives to staff-driven outreach projects, Natchem demonstrates that business success should go hand in hand with social responsibility. “Grow with purpose and lead with heart” isn’t just a slogan – it’s how Natchem operates. This commitment to community engagement reflects the company’s belief that business should contribute positively to society whilst delivering commercial success. closely with clients to offer technical support, inspiration and guidance from concept to launch. This ability to merge international excellence with regional insight continues to position Natchem as a leader in the Southern African fragrance, cosmetics, home care and industrial markets.

A STRONG INNOVATION PIPELINE David’s leadership has energised the company’s approach to new product development. Several projects are currently in development and will launch soon, designed to meet customers’ needs with speed, creativity and precision.

The focus is on making product access and innovation more seamless and efficient for manufacturers across the region. These initiatives reflect Natchem’s ongoing effort to stay ahead of market trends whilst providing practical solutions that work in realworld manufacturing environments. Every part of the company’s portfolio reflects a dedication to sustainability, performance and innovation, ensuring customers have the tools and support they need to succeed in an increasingly competitive market.

A COMMITMENT TO PROGRESS As Natchem moves forward, David’s focus on creativity, inclusivity and modern business practices ensures the company continues evolving whilst preserving the trust and authenticity that have defined it for decades. The future of the business lies in bridging tradition with transformation, remaining true to the company’s roots whilst leading Southern Africa into a new era of responsible growth and inspired innovation. With David’s renewed energy and direction, Natchem is well positioned to adapt to change and looks forward to embracing responsible growth in the Southern African cosmetics and personal care industry. • Natchem – www.natchem.co.za

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QUALITY ASSURANCE & QUALITY CONTROL

Digital innovation transforms QC practices at Hersol Discover how Hersol Manufacturing Labs is transforming pharmaceutical quality control through innovative technology and strategic partnerships for enhanced efficiency.

ehind every product that rolls off the production line at Hersol Manufacturing Labs (Hersol) lies a story of meticulous testing, cutting-edge technology and human expertise working in perfect harmony. At the heart of Hersol’s pharmaceutical operations lies a state-of-the-art quality control (QC) laboratory – a space where science meets scrutiny, and where the promise of safe, effective medication becomes a reality. Equipped with cutting-edge analytical instrumentation and staffed by a team of highly trained analysts, the QC lab plays a pivotal role in upholding regulatory compliance and maintaining the highest standards of pharmaceutical quality. From raw material verification to final product testing, each step is meticulously documented and executed under strict good laboratory practice (GLP) protocols. A wide range of analytical techniques – including FTIR, HPLC, GC, UV-Vis

Every dose delivered is one that Hersol can stand behind with confidence

spectrophotometry, and microbiological testing – are supported within Hersol’s QC lab. This space and its offerings are tailored to meet the diverse needs of the complementary medicines market. Beyond compliance, Hersol’s QC laboratory embodies a culture of continuous improvement. By integrating digital systems and real-time data analytics, the manufacturer has enhanced traceability and reduced turnaround times, while fostering proactive decision-making. The QC team ensures that every dose delivered is one that Hersol can stand behind with confidence.

TECH SPEEDS UP TESTING TIMELINES When it comes to pharmaceutical manufacturing, microbiological control is one of the most critical and time-sensitive functions in the entire production chain. Whether analysts are testing raw materials or finished products, monitoring cleanrooms or overseeing environmental monitoring, the micro lab plays a key role in ensuring all products released by Hersol are safe, compliant and of a high quality. At its manufacturing facility, Hersol’s leadership has made a conscious effort to not only meet regulatory expectations but to also innovate wherever possible. One of the most exciting developments in its laboratory recently has been the implementation of the Certa Blue system, which is a game-changer when it comes to shortening microbial testing timelines. What once took days can now be accomplished in hours, without compromising rigorous safety standards.

STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIP DRIVES SUCCESS

The Certa Blue system helps shorten microbial testing timelines at Hersol

Hersol’s QC lab is equipped with cutting-edge analytical instrumentation

Although Hersol specialises in contract pharmaceutical manufacturing, including formulation development and analytical testing, it recognises that stability studies require dedicated infrastructure, long-term monitoring, and regulatory precision. To meet these demands, Hersol has established a strategic partnership with an accredited stability facility that operates under strict SAHPRA guidelines.

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The QC lab and its team play a pivotal role in upholding regulatory compliance

Hersol’s team manages the entire outsourcing process, from protocol design and sample dispatch to data review and report integration. This hands-on supervision ensures that the stability data delivered by Hersol is fully aligned with regulatory expectations and seamlessly incorporated into each client’s product development timeline. By entrusting this aspect to a specialised facility while maintaining full project coordination, Hersol combines agility with compliance. This gives clients the confidence of a streamlined, end-to-end manufacturing solution without compromise. The pharmaceutical landscape continues to evolve, with new challenges emerging alongside new opportunities. Manufacturers like Hersol that are investing in robust QC capabilities, embracing meaningful innovation and building key strategic partnerships are well-positioned to navigate the future with great success. •

Hersol Manufacturing Labs – hersol.co.za

Discover the power of partnership with Hersol Manufacturing Labs!

45 Years

45 Years of excellence

At Hersol, we put people first. Our commitment to our clients goes beyond mere production – we’re dedicated to transforming your vision into reality. With our unparalleled expertise in formulation development, meticulous raw material sourcing, and cutting-edge pilot scale production capabilities, Hersol empowers you to bring your innovative concepts to life. Why choose Hersol as your contract manufacturer? Because we understand the importance of trust and reliability in every step of the journey. From concept to creation, we ensure that every aspect of product development and production is handled with precision and care. With our unmatched expertise, cutting-edge facilities, unwavering commitment to quality and dedication to customer satisfaction, choose us as your contract manufacturer, unlock endless possibilities for innovation and growth in the complementary medicines industry and experience the difference first-hand.

ACCREDITED BODIES: Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories is registered with reputable organizations: • Sahpra Manufacturing licence • South African Health Products Regulatory Authority • South African Department of Health • South African Pharmacy Council • Health Product Association (HPA) • Self-Care Association of South Africa

Laurence Solomons CEO Laurence@Hersol.co.za

Barry Solomons Chief Operating Officer Barry@Hersol.co.za

• FDA Food Facility • S.A.N.H.A (South African National Halaal Authority), NIHT (National Independent Halaal Trust) to offer Halaal certified products. • Montreal Kosher Authorities (Global Kosher Certification) to offer Kosher certified products.

Kevin Van Wyngaardt Managing Director kevin@hersol.co.za

Riaan Herselman Operations Director Riaan@Hersol.co.za

Tumelo Langa Production Director Prodman@hersol.co.za

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd tel: +27 11 614 6631/2 | email: enquiries@hersol.co.za | web: www.hersol.co.za

QUALITY ASSURANCE & QUALITY CONTROL

Miele glasswashers: An efficient solution for South African labs Pharmaceutical laboratories in South Africa face unique challenges, from maintaining the highest regulatory standards to saving resources in operations. Miele professional glasswashers offer a cutting-edge solution designed to enhance efficiency, save time and ensure GMP compliance. By Abby Vorster

anual cleaning of laboratory glassware might seem costeffective at first, but it comes with hidden inefficiencies and risks: • Inefficiency – manual processes are labour-intensive, consuming resources

that could be allocated to more critical lab activities. • Non-compliance risks – human error can lead to inconsistent cleaning results, jeopardising GMP standards. • Resource heavy – manual cleaning uses significantly more water and energy compared to optimised systems like Miele glasswashers.

A SOLUTION TO TRANSFORM PHARMA LABS Labotec is the exclusive distributor of Miele professional glasswashers in subSaharan Africa. With its IQ/OQ by Miele trained service technicians, laboratories can now benefit from globally recognised quality paired with expert local service. Miele professional glasswashers offer an advanced cleaning solution that addresses key concerns of efficiency, compliance and cost-effectiveness for South African laboratories. Here’s why they stand out: • Regulatory compliance made easy – the Expertline Miele glasswashers are equipped with IQ/OQ validation to simplify the processes of regulatory audits and inspections, ensuring labs meet stringent GMP requirements. • Efficiency boost – compared to manual cleaning, Miele systems deliver a 59% improvement in performance, optimising time and resource allocation. • Water and energy savings – lab environments can benefit from reduced water usage (up to 63%

savings) and significantly lower energy consumption.

CUSTOMISED FEATURES FOR LABORATORIES Miele’s glasswashers are designed specifically for laboratory environments, offering: • Programmable cleaning cycles tailored to match glassware-specific requirements, ensuring optimal cleaning results. • Durability thanks to their construction from premium corrosion-resistant stainless steel to handle the harshest cleaning agents. • Expert configurations with options for high-capacity loads and speciality cleaning items, making it ideal for high-demand labs.

EXCLUSIVE LOCAL EXPERTISE WITH LABOTEC In South Africa, Labotec serves as the sole authorised Miele distributor, providing access to these advanced glasswashers. Labotec also offers local installation and maintenance. Clients can rely on their local technicians trained by Miele to ensure hassle-free setup and servicing. They also provide comprehensive customer

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Q: Are Miele glasswashers suitable for all types of lab glassware? Yes, Miele’s programmable cleaning cycles accommodate everything from delicate pipettes to large measuring cylinders. Q: How long does the installation take? Labotec ensures installations are completed efficiently, typically within one to two days depending on the site’s specific needs.

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Miele’s glasswashers are designed specifically for laboratory environments support. Labotec ensures you receive full after-sales support, including replacement parts and technical assistance tailored to region-specific needs.

A SUSTAINABLE INVESTMENT Switching to Miele professional glasswashers isn’t just about compliance. There are also sustainability and long-term savings benefits. Consider these advantages: • Reduce cleaning time by 59%, freeing up staff for critical tasks. • Contributes to a greener laboratory environment with reduced water and energy usage.

ACHIEVE COMPLIANCE, EFFICIENCY AND PEACE OF MIND Miele professional glasswashers offer South African pharmaceutical laboratories a way to streamline operations without compromising on regulatory adherence. With exclusive distribution by Labotec, laboratories gain access to improved efficiency, reliable compliance, and unparalleled customer support. Ready to transform your lab? Experience the Miele difference today. • Labotec – www.labotec.co.za

Sustainable packaging glowing from the inside out 2025

Gold & Overall Winner Vaseline Body Lotion Bottle

50% rHDPE

Congratulations to Unilever SA and Alpla packaging for our SAPRO Overall and Gold Award winning Vaseline Body Lotion 50% rHDPE bottle. We take pride in collaborating with these forward-thinking companies dedicated to enhancing the sustainable packaging industry in South Africa.

Extrupet is proudly associated with

info@extrupet.com | www.extrupet.com +27 11 885 8390 | +27 72 610 0614

COMPANY FOCUS

Industry stakeholders unite behind R200mn recycling vision Extrupet’s R200 million investment is set to boost the PET recycling landscape for South Africa’s cosmetics, personal care, pharmaceutical and food and beverage industries. By Abby Vorster

he South African packaging industry has reached a significant milestone with the official launch of Extrupet’s bottle-tobottle recycling facility in Cape Town, Western Cape. This state-of-the-art plant, representing the first Vacunite® food grade PET recycling operation in the province, will transform packaging opportunities for manufacturers across the country.

image: gettyimages

STRATEGIC INVESTMENT ADDRESSES CRITICAL NEED The new facility, which began commercial operations in March this year, adds 15 000t of food-grade recycled PET (rPET) to the South African market annually. This represents a substantial increase in locally available sustainable packaging materials, particularly crucial for brands seeking to reduce their environmental footprint whilst meeting increasingly stringent international regulations. “This facility is a milestone not only for Cape Town but for South Africa,” commented Petco CEO, Telly Chauke at the official launch ceremony. “It will expand local capacity, ensure bottle-to-bottle recycling at world-class standards, and create meaningful jobs across the recycling value chain.” For cosmetics and pharma companies, this development addresses a critical supply chain

Joint managing director of Extrupet, Chandru Wadhwani

challenge. The facility produces high-quality rPET that meets rigorous international foodgrade safety standards, making it suitable for direct contact with cosmetic formulations and pharmaceutical products, like vitamins and minerals, where purity and safety are paramount.

A GLOBALLY COMPLIANT FACILITY The timing of this investment is particularly strategic, as global regulations increasingly mandate the use of recycled content in packaging. Extrupet’s facility ensures local access to certified food grade rPET, reducing dependence on expensive imports whilst supporting export competitiveness. Minister of Forestry, Fisheries, and the Environment, Dr Dion George, who officially unveiled the facility, emphasised government’s commitment to creating an enabling regulatory environment for recycling innovation. “This facility shows how public-private partnerships can deliver practical climate action, strengthen circular systems, and stimulate inclusive growth,” he stated at the launch ceremony.

INDUSTRY STAKEHOLDERS UNITE The launch event demonstrated unprecedented collaboration across the packaging value chain, bringing together stakeholders from government, manufacturing and supply chain partners. Trevor Isaacs, packaging solutions manager at UPM Adhesive Materials, captured the collaborative spirit of the occasion: “I was privileged to be invited to the launch of the new Extrupet food grade PET recycling plant in Cape Town. The day was filled with inspirational speeches from dignitaries, and it was fantastic to see so many industry stakeholders in the same room, pulling in the same direction. To make significant inroads into plastic recycling, it will indeed require a group effort. Collaboration is the key to success, and I look forward to engaging further with role players in this space.”

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Extrupet has ambitious expansion plans that will significantly increase South Africa’s rPET production capacity SAPRO GM, Oliver Bonstein, added: “Extrupet increased capacity will inevitably drive up the recycling rate for PET bottles. It is important to ensure that brands use recycled content to keep this recycling capacity operational and we believe it is in the interest of all South Africans.” These sentiments reflect the broader industry recognition that sustainable packaging solutions require coordinated efforts across the entire value chain, from raw material suppliers to end-users in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors.

TECHNOLOGICAL EXCELLENCE DRIVES QUALITY ASSURANCE The facility employs cutting-edge bottle-tobottle recycling technology that transforms post-consumer PET beverage bottles into high-quality rPET suitable for demanding applications. This advanced processing ensures that the recycled material maintains the clarity, strength and chemical resistance required for cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging applications. Joint managing director of Extrupet, Chandru Wadhwani, highlighted the company’s vision of expanding food grade rPET production to meet growing market demand: “The facility’s advanced technology maximises purity and quality, enabling the creation of certified rPET

COMPANY FOCUS

ECONOMIC IMPACT AND VALUE CHAIN DEVELOPMENT

Chandru Wadhwani showcases the new recycling facility to dignitaries

that meets local and international standards – a critical factor for manufacturing companies operating under strict regulatory frameworks.”

CIRCULAR ECONOMY BENEFITS FOR BEAUTY BRANDS A truly circular economy model has been adopted within the recycling plant, which is particularly relevant for beauty brands increasingly focused on sustainability credentials. PET’s unique properties enable continuous recycling at its highest value, allowing brands to incorporate recycled content without compromising product protection or shelf appeal. For personal care manufacturers, it offers new opportunities to enhance sustainability messaging whilst maintaining product integrity. The food grade certification ensures that recycled PET from the recycling plant can be safely used for cosmetic packaging, including products for premium beauty formulations.

The launch event of Extrupet’s bottle-to-bottle recycling facility in Cape

Beyond the environmental benefits, the facility creates significant economic opportunities throughout the recycling value chain. The investment supports local livelihoods, particularly waste pickers and small collection businesses, whilst reducing costs associated with nationwide transport for reprocessing through enhanced regional efficiency in the Western Cape. According to the magazine, Sustainable Packaging Middle East & Africa, this investment positions Cape Town and the Western Cape as a key hub for sustainable packaging innovation in South Africa. For manufacturers based in the region, this represents improved access to sustainable packaging materials with reduced transportation costs and enhanced supply chain resilience. Beyond the launch, Extrupet has ambitious expansion plans that will significantly increase South Africa’s food grade rPET production capacity. The company aims to grow total capacity from the current 30 000t to 45 000t annually through this first phase, with a second expansion planned for 2026 which will increase capacity to 60 000t annually. The expansion timeline aligns with growing demand from manufacturing companies seeking to increase recycled content in their packaging portfolios. The guaranteed local supply of food grade rPET provides manufacturers with the security needed for long-term sustainability planning and product development strategies.

SUPPORTING INDUSTRY TRANSFORMATION The launch of the Western Cape facility also represents a critical step in South Africa’s broader recycling transformation. National PET collection rates have increased dramatically from 16% in 2005 to nearly 76% by 2023. “We are proud that South Africa is one of the countries that has created EPR legislation to deal with the issue of plastic pollution.

This means that, by law, producers and brand owners must take responsibility for their packaging waste across its entire life cycle – from design to disposal,” Chandru Wadhwani mentioned. “Opaque PET is designed to fail and will end up in landfill, while clear and light blue PET are of high value to recyclers. These factors should be considered in the packaging design process.” For the beauty, pharma and personal care industries, this infrastructure development offers enhanced opportunities for brands to contribute to extended producer responsibility (EPR) compliance whilst securing sustainable packaging supplies. The facility’s alignment with South Africa’s strengthened EPR framework encourages sustainable packaging practices among producers whilst supporting practical implementation of circular economy principles.

FUTURE OPPORTUNITIES FOR COLLABORATION Extrupet is opening new avenues for collaboration between packaging suppliers and end-users in the manufacturing sector. The collaborative approach demonstrated by this project sets a benchmark for future sustainability initiatives across the packaging value chain. Brands can now develop innovative packaging solutions incorporating local food grade rPET, supporting sustainability goals and economic development objectives. The facility’s G20 initiative backing and strong public-private partnership model demonstrate the scalability of sustainable packaging solutions. For multinational personal care and pharma companies operating in South Africa, it provides an opportunity to showcase local sustainability leadership whilst contributing to global corporate responsibility targets. As the industry continues evolving towards more sustainable practices, Extrupet’s investment positions South Africa as a continental leader in food-grade plastic recycling, offering manufacturers access to world-class recycled packaging materials produced according to international standards. •

DID YOU KNOW? PET, or polyethylene terephthalate, commonly used to package soft drinks and bottled water, is one of the few truly circular, commercially viable plastic recycling solutions. Bottles can be processed safely back into new food-grade products, keeping the material in circulation at its highest value for as long as possible.

Extrupet – extrupet.com WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2025

BEAUTY INGREDIENT TRENDS

A new sulfate-free alternative as 1,4-Dioxane regulations tighten NANSA® LSS 70 is a sulfate-free, high active anionic surfactant, which meets the current needs of many applications with the foam, detergency and wetting benefits of ether sulfates and sulfates in a single product.

image: gettyimages

lobally, the move away from ethoxylated surfactants is being reinforced by tightening regulations on 1,4-Dioxane, a by-product of ethoxylation. In the US, the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation has implemented strict limits on 1,4-Dioxane content in personal care and cleaning products, with permissible levels dropped to 1ppm by 2023 for cosmetics and 2ppm for detergents. Similar initiatives are under review in the European Union, where the Chemical Strategy for Sustainability and the REACH framework are expected to further restrict trace impurities linked to human or environmental risk. These changes encourage manufacturers to transition toward non-ethoxylated, sulfatefree surfactants such as Alpha Olefin Sulfonate (AOS), which are inherently 1,4-Dioxane-free, simplifying compliance while aligning with cleaner formulation trends. This regulatory evolution, combined with rising consumer awareness, is creating a clear market shift that supports the adoption of NANSA® LSS 70 in new-generation formulations.

PUBLIC AND REGULATORY SCRUTINY The industry is experiencing increased restriction on acceptable chemical use. Combined with legislation, consumers are becoming more conscious of the content of their personal care products and are regularly researching their ingredients by checking the product label, INCI lists and marketing claims. One example of this is the presence of 1,4-Dioxane in surfactants and personal care products. Many regions are establishing regulations and limits for 1,4-Dioxane in consumer products to mitigate risks. 1, 4-Dioxane is a synthetic substance that remains as a trace impurity in ethoxylated (EO) surfactants and end user products. A commonly used anionic surfactant in personal care cleansing applications is Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES). SLES is a low priced, high in demand and supply, versatile anionic surfactant known for its ability to create rich lather and effectively remove dirt and oil. However, it’s not without potential drawbacks and

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2025 // W W W.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

NANSA® LSS 70 offers an alternative for formulators using SLES at 70% active suppliers and consumers may be looking for alternative options.

IDEAL ANIONIC SURFACTANT ALTERNATIVE AECI Specialty Chemicals’ innovative principal, Innospec offers NANSA® LSS 70. This high active AOS is an ideal solution for SLES replacement. AOS is an anionic surfactant obtained by sulfonating C14-16 Olefin. The key benefits of AOS include: • Sulfate-free • EO and 1,4-Dioxane free • Voluminous, stable foam • Luxurious and creamy foam • Excellent detergency.

BEAUTY INGREDIENT TRENDS

• pH stability • Hard water tolerance • Salt thickened • Readily biodegradable • Liquid and solid forms. Typical applications include shampoo, shower gel, bubble bath, liquid and bar soaps, toothpaste and baby wash.

SUPERIOR FOAM PERFORMANCE Foam was generated using two different methods with a 0.1% active surfactant solution.

Figure 2: Hart & DeGeorge test method used to compare foam properties of AOS

AOS produces luxurious, creamy foam like alkyl sulfates with superior foam quality in comparison to alkyl ether sulfates. Due to the demand for SLES at both low and high liquid concentrations, Innospec recently introduced NANSA® LSS 70 as a new grade to the NANSA® LSS series. NANSA® LSS 70 offers an alternative for formulators using SLES at 70% active with a more sustainable transport profile.

Figure 1: Rotary foam method used to compare foam properties of AOS

SUPPORTING FORMULATORS THROUGH INGREDIENT TRANSITION

AOS produces voluminous, stable foam comparable to alkyl ether sulfates with superior foam stability in comparison to alkyl sulfates.

NANSA® LSS 70 is solid at room temperature and transforms to liquid when heated over 55 o C when it is easy to handle. When dissolved in water at 60 o C, NANSA® LSS 70 has good

solubility compared to an equivalent SLES level. In addition to the many benefits of AOS chemistry, NANSA® LSS 70 offers even more advantages to the formulator, such as: • Being a pumpable paste at temperature higher than 55°C • High active anionic matter, typically 68% • Suitable for the preparation of super concentrated detergent systems • Compatible over a broad pH range • AOS is a sulphonate and is not prone to hydrolysis (which happens for SLES 70 as it is a sulphate) • Compatible with high temperatures unlike SLES 70 • Hard water tolerant • Unpreserved • Sustainable in terms of shipping less water. For the full range of the NANSA® LSS series and formulating guidance as a replacement for SLES, contact the team at AECI Specialty Chemicals. •

AECI Specialty Chemicals – Nontokozo.Masuku@aeciworld.com, Phineas.Folotsi@aeciworld.com

NANSA® LSS 70 – CLEAN PERFOMANCE MEETS RESPONSIBLE INNOVATION Next-Generation AOS Surfactant for High-Performance, Sustainable Formulations Why formulators love it: • High active content (≈68%) for super-concentrated systems • EO-free, sulfate-free, and 1,4-dioxane-free – safer, cleaner formulations • Superior foaming under high fat load or low temperature conditions • Excellent detergency and hard water tolerance • Preservative-free and compliant with EU Ecolabel requirements • Reduced environmental impact – no aquatic toxicity • Applications – shampoo, body wash, hand soap, dish soap

Phineas Folotsi | +27 63 694 3056 | Phineas.Folotsi@aeciworld.com Nontokozo Masuku | +27 82 575 1864 | Nontokozo.Masuku@aeciworld.com

AECI Half Nov 25.indd 1

2025/11/03 WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2025 16:37

BEAUTY INGREDIENT TRENDS

Sun smart: the science behind mineral UV filters In the ever-evolving world of skincare, and with the growing awareness of the dangers of chemical sunscreens, mineral UV filters are emerging as a game changer, offering a safe and sustainable alternative for sun protection. the aggressive melanoma cancers originating from melanocytes. According to the World Health Organization, around two to three million non-melanoma skin cancers and 132 000 melanoma skin cancers occur each year due to excessive sun exposure. What’s more, up to 90% of visible signs of ageing, like wrinkles and age spots, are attributed to UV exposure.

images: gettyimages

FORMULATION FRIENDLY MINERAL FILTERS

he latest consumer trends in sun protection emphasise sustainability, natural ingredients, multifunctionality and higher sun protection, with consumers seeking reef-friendly formulas free from oxybenzone and octinoxate. These trends are driving the demand for lightweight, non-greasy textures that blend seamlessly into skincare routines. Moreover, suncare products incorporating antioxidants and hydrating ingredients are gaining popularity, providing not just protection from UV rays but also nourishment for the skin.

Prioritising sun care not only preserves skin’s health and appearance but also safeguards against serious health concerns 34

MINERAL FILTERS IN DAILY SKINCARE Inorganic UV filters, also known as mineral filters, stand out for their reliability and safety, offering sun protection by creating a physical barrier on the skin's surface. Incorporating mineral UV filters into an everyday skincare regime is a straightforward yet pivotal step towards safeguarding the skin. This is done by applying a generous amount of mineral sunscreen to all areas of skin exposed to the sun, be it the face, neck, or hands. For those seeking a bit of colour and coverage, a tinted mineral sunscreen can be a splendid choice, providing a subtle, naturallooking glow whilst keeping skin protected. Consistency is the cornerstone of reaping the full benefits of mineral UV filters, ensuring the skin remains radiant and shielded against the elements daily.

MAKE HEALTHY SKIN A PRIORITY Prioritising sun care not only preserves skin’s health and appearance but also safeguards against serious health concerns associated with excessive sun exposure, such as the non-melanoma cancers, basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and

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It can be challenging to develop sun care products that meet regional limitations on allowable UV filters, levels and combinations, while at the same time being sustainable and catering for product conscious consumers. Croda Beauty’s Solaveil™ Titanium Dioxide (TiO2) and Zinc Oxide (ZnO) UV actives are the ideal mineral UV filters for sun care formulations. Also available as powders and dispersions, they are designed to enable formulators to meet diverse consumer needs and global regulatory requirements. They offer formulation versatility, enhanced stability, transparency, and high SPF benefits. Zinc oxide, a key player in the sun care category, is not only celebrated for its sunreflective properties but also for its calming effect on the skin. Its anti-inflammatory prowess aids in alleviating irritation and discomfort, making it an ally for those battling conditions such as rosacea or eczema. Titanium dioxide is renowned for its gentle touch, ensuring that even the most delicate of skins can enjoy the sunshine without fear of adverse reactions. These filters don’t just prevent the external signs of ageing and damage induced by UV exposure, but also nurture skin's inherent health, preserving its natural balance and well-being. Contact Croda Beauty for more information and formulation guidance. • Croda Beauty – www.crodabeauty.com

BEAUTY INGREDIENT TRENDS

powerful ingredients for modern formulations

Beauty ingredients are not just about surface-level results. They are holistic solutions that work harmoniously with the natural functions of the skin. Many of Sabinsa’s ingredients represent the future of skincare where products focus on long-term health, protection and restoration.

arrier restoration and multi-functional formulations are hot topics in beauty and skincare. These trends are driven by innovation and increasing consumer demand for gentle yet practical solutions.

advanced glycation end products (AGEs) in a dose-dependent manner, suggesting its profound activity in preventing glycation and slowing down ageing. SabiWhite® offers a non-hydroquinone

BABCHIOL™

As a result, the market is orientated toward products that enhance and protect skin’s natural defenses. Sabinsa’s ingredients are specifically designed to support, protect and restore the skin, paving the way for sustainable and scientifically advanced innovations that promote a healthy skin microbiome. Sabinsa has been consistently leading the way in developing evidence-based, sustainable ingredients by keeping up with emerging innovations in active compounds and integrating them into cutting-edge formulations. Sabinsa's ingredients meet consumer demand for restorative, multifunctional skincare products. Among its portfolio of innovative actives, the ingredients discussed in this article exemplify Sabinsa’s commitment to providing effective skincare solutions.

alternative suitable for sensitive skin types and helps reduce hyperpigmentation, sunspots and discolouration without causing irritation or over-exfoliation. This ingredient is an excellent choice for brands for a brightening solution that enhances skin’s radiance and works harmoniously with skin’s natural barrier.

alternative to retinol. It has been shown to provide similar benefits to retinol, including reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improving skin texture. However, Babchiol™ is less likely to cause irritation or dryness, unlike retinol, making it an ideal choice for sensitive skin. In-house studies have shown that Babchiol™ exhibits strong anti-ageing properties by effectively inhibiting collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase enzymes in vitro. This indicates its potential to improve skin firmness and reduce hyperpigmentation. The gentle nature of Babchiol™ ensures it fits well within formulations focused on barrier repair.

SABIWHITE

Mangiophelin® is a polyphenol-rich extract derived from dried immature mangoes, standardised to contain 10% polyphenols. It has shown potent antioxidant and anti-ageing properties in vitro. It effectively scavenges free radicals, inhibits collagenase and elastase enzymes, and boosts collagen production. Additionally, it exhibits anti-hyaluronidase activity, helping retain skin moisture, and shows significant tyrosinase inhibition, suggesting benefits for skin brightening and wrinkle reduction (in-house). Mangiophelin® is vital in multi-functional skincare products that strengthen skin’s natural defenses. As consumers prioritise protection and rejuvenation, Mangiophelin® is a perfect fit for formulations designed to keep skin healthy and radiant under challenging conditions.

image: gettyimages

A proprietary product of Sabinsa, it contains a minimum of 95% tetrahydrocurcumin. It is a colourless, standardised, powdered extract obtained from the yellow curcuminoids of the roots of Curcuma longa (turmeric). SabiWhite® is a well-known antioxidant that helps reduce melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, resulting in a brighter skin tone. Additionally, it combats free radical formation, shielding skin’s cells from damage caused by UV radiation.1 SabiWhite® at 0.25% in cream formulation, used for four weeks, was found to be safe and effective in reducing pigmentation, when compared to 4% hydroquinone.2 In-house in vitro studies have shown that SabiWhite® inhibits the formation of

In response to the growing demand for gentle skincare alternatives, Babchiol™ is a 99% pure botanical extract derived from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, offering a potent natural

Figure 1: SabiWhite® inhibits AGE formation

MANGIOPHELIN®

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Figure 2: Anti-collagenase, anti-elastase and anti-tyrosinase activities of Babchiol™

LACTOSPORIN® The microbiome-friendly movement is one of the most notable trends shaping the future of skincare. Postbiotics are the fermentation products or metabolites of probiotics which support skin’s good bacteria and offer better stability and safety than the probiotics. LactoSporin® is an extracellular protein metabolite obtained from probiotic strain Heyndrickxia coagulans (previously known as Bacillus coagulans) MTCC 5856. It is supported

BEAUTY INGREDIENT TRENDS

pTEROWHITE®

images: gettyimages

pTeroWhite® 90% is a natural cosmetic ingredient derived from the heartwood of Pterocarpus marsupium, containing 90% Pterostilbene. It offers skin brightening and antioxidant benefits that support a healthier and more radiant complexion. Two clinical studies have found that natural pterostilbene may offer an anti-aging effect, enhance skin brightness, and provide natural SPF protection. In an eight-week study with 38 volunteers, a cream containing 0.4% pterostilbene significantly improved skin brightness, elasticity and hydration, and reduced fine lines and wrinkles, with no adverse effects reported.6 The second study confirmed that the ingredient exhibits SPF value both in vivo and in vitro, concluding that it would be safe in topical sun-protective formulations.7

by well-documented scientific evidence for its potent skin protective and antiageing effects. LactoSporin® has demonstrated multiple skin health benefits in vitro. It protects skin cells from oxidative stress without compromising cell viability and offers significant defense against UV-induced damage (in-house). In a clinical study, it enhanced skin firmness, reduced saggin, and improved hydration levels. The antimicrobial properties of LactoSporin® help prevent skin pathogens and minimise acne, making it a promising ingredient for skincare formulations.3,4 In another clinical study, participants were instructed to apply 2% LactoSporin® cream twice daily on the face for 10 weeks. Dermatological and instrument-based methods assessed the appearance of skin in terms of signs of ageing. The regular use of LactoSporin cream showed significant improvement in frown lines, fine lines, crow’s feet, nasolabial folds, skin texture, firmness/ elasticity and hydration.5

Figure 3: LactoSporin® showed significant improvement in the age-related skin changes as determined dermatologically

Sabinsa's ingredients meet consumer demand for restorative, multifunctional skincare products SABERRY® Rich in antioxidants, Saberry® (standardised to contain a minimum of 10% β‐glucogallin) is derived from Emblica officinalis, commonly known as Indian Gooseberry or Amla. Scientifically recognised for its potent antioxidant properties, Saberry® helps protect the skin from oxidative stress and environmental damage. In-house in vitro studies showed dose-dependent free radical scavenging activity and its ability to reduce oxidative cellular damage. Saberry® also inhibits collagenase enzyme activity by 83.2%, helping preserve collagen and skin structure. Additionally, it provides UVB protection and reduces melanogenesis by 55% post UV exposure, making it effective for skin brightening and photoprotection.

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Figure 4: Skin evaluation of fine lines, wrinkles and skin texture using Antera: pTeroWhite® application at week 4 and week 8 vs baseline all p<0.0001

CENTELLIN® CG Centellin® CG is an innovative extract derived from Centella asiatica, commonly known as Gotu Kola, standardised to contain 40% saponins and recognised for its skin-healing properties. Scientific studies have shown that C. asiatica stimulates the production of collagen, enhances skin elasticity and improves overall strength to provide anti-ageing benefits.8 Centellin® CG is used as a skin conditioning and wound healing agent, which provides good skin texture and integrity. It fits in perfectly with the increasing demand for ingredients that not only nourish but also promote long-term skin health. These cutting-edge ingredients from Sabinsa play a key role in helping formulators create the next generation of skincare solutions that are effective, gentle and sustainable. • References available on request

Sabinsa – www.sabinsa.co.za

GET IN TOUCH DAIYAAN NAIDOO

+27 (78) 521 9171 DAINAD@TRANSMARE.COM

BEAUTY INGREDIENT TRENDS

Swiss innovation meets

South African expertise Transmare Chemie is partnering with Rahn Cosmetic Actives to bring world-class active ingredients to local brands and manufacturers. This collaboration introduces cutting-edge solutions specifically designed to address the growing consumer demand for effective, natural skincare products that deliver proven results.

ounded on the principles of Swiss precision and scientific innovation, Rahn Cosmetic Actives has established itself as a global leader in developing high-performance active ingredients for the cosmetics industry. The company’s commitment to combining traditional botanical knowledge with modern scientific research has resulted in a portfolio of actives that meet the most stringent quality standards whilst addressing real skincare challenges. What sets Rahn apart is its dedication to sustainable and circular innovation – ensuring its ingredients benefit not only the end user and cosmetic manufacturer, but also the planet and communities involved in sourcing. This philosophy aligns perfectly with the South African market’s increasing focus on responsible beauty and ethical sourcing practices.

images: gettyimages

SPECIAL CARE FOR SENSITIVE SKIN As a result of dryness, sensitive skin tends to be predisposed to redness, eczema, burning and itching. A weakened barrier is also common in sensitive skin.

One of Rahn’s standout innovations is DEFENSIL®, a natural active ingredient specifically formulated to address the complex challenges of sensitive skin. In today’s environment, sensitive skin conditions are increasingly common, creating a vicious circle where impaired barrier function leads to increased transepidermal water loss, making skin more susceptible to everyday adverse stimuli including climate changes, psychological stress, allergens and environmental factors. DEFENSIL® offers a breakthrough solution by combining three powerful plant-based extracts: Cardiospermum halicacabum (balloon vine); Echium plantagineum (echium oil); and Helianthus annuus unsaponifiable fractions. This unique combination provides multifunctional barrier-enhancing and anti-inflammatory benefits, which work together to break the cycle of skin sensitivity. The efficacy of the active ingredient is impressive – DEFENSIL® soothes skin in just 15 minutes whilst providing long-lasting protection. Clinical studies

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DEFENSIL ® soothes skin in just 15 minutes whilst providing longlasting protection demonstrate that it instantly calms skin, protects against overreactions, enables highly effective regeneration of the skin barrier, and protects epidermal stem cells. For South African skincare brands, DEFENSIL® presents an exceptional opportunity to develop products that offer a natural alternative to cortisonebased treatments. The ingredient is made in Switzerland conforming to the most stringent quality standards, and it is completely biodegradable, non-ecotoxic and features traceable sourcing. DEFENSIL® is also RSPO certified and vegan.

BEAUTY INGREDIENT TRENDS

BRINGING WELLBEING TO STRESSED SKIN Developed to calm damaged and sensitive skin, MYRAMAZE® is an innovative active inspired by the remarkable survival abilities of the South African resurrection plant, Myrothamnus flabellifolia. This extraordinary botanical ingredient is particularly relevant to the local market and showcases how indigenous African flora can inspire global skincare innovations. The unique ability of the resurrection plant to revitalise when rain returns after long periods of extreme drought, has been harnessed in MYRAMAZE® to address dehydration stress in human skin. The active ingredient protects skin’s cells from dryness and stabilises skin’s moisture and lipid barrier, addressing the daily challenge of transepidermal water loss – with 300ml to 400ml of water lost through the skin every day. MYRAMAZE® contains key active compounds, including quinic acid derivatives (3,4,5-Tri-O-galloylquinic acid) and trehalose, work synergistically to prevent lipid peroxidation, protect cell membranes and regenerate the water and lipid barrier. Clinical testing demonstrates that MYRAMAZE® invigorates the skin for over 48 hours, making it particularly valuable for products targeting stressed and dehydrated skin. The ingredient’s versatility opens multiple formulation opportunities for

The Transmare Chemie-Rahn partnership brings significant advantages to local brands and manufacturers South African brands, from night care products for regeneration and intense hydration to day care formulations for protection and after-sun care, as well as supportive treatments for atopic dermatitis. MYRAMAZE® also supports the production of sustainable, clean beauty products, which aligns with growing consumer consciousness about the environmental impact of skincare products.

PARTNERSHIP BENEFITS FOR LOCAL MANUFACTURERS The Transmare Chemie-Rahn partnership brings significant advantages to local brands and manufacturers. Both DEFENSIL® and MYRAMAZE® are easy to formulate with, stability tested and come with complete documentation and full technical support. This comprehensive approach ensures that South African companies can

confidently incorporate these premium actives into their product lines. Both ingredients comply with numerous cosmetic regulations and feature certified access and benefit sharing with local community support, particularly relevant for MYRAMAZE® given its South African botanical origins. This ethical sourcing approach supports UN Sustainability Development Goals whilst ensuring traceable supply chains.

COMMITTED TO MEETING MARKET DEMANDS DEFENSIL® and MYRAMAZE® address key consumer trends in the South African market: the demand for natural, effective ingredients that deliver proven results without compromising on safety or sustainability. The actives offer manufacturers the opportunity to develop products with strong scientific backing, clear marketing claims and genuine efficacy that consumers can feel and see. The partnership between Transmare Chemie and Rahn Cosmetic Actives represents more than just ingredient supply – it’s a commitment to advancing the South African beauty industry through innovation, sustainability and scientific excellence. As consumer expectations continue to evolve, this collaboration ensures that local manufacturers have access to world-class actives that can differentiate their products in an increasingly competitive marketplace. For more information about incorporating DEFENSIL® and MYRAMAZE® into your product formulations, contact Transmare Chemie to explore how these Swiss innovations can enhance your brand’s offering and meet your customers’ evolving skincare needs. •

DID YOU KNOW? The market for sensitive skincare products has grown in recent years. It is predicted to increase from $44.36 billion in 2024 to $48.06 billion in 2025 at a CAGR of 8.3%. The growth in the historic period can be attributed to a rise in reported cases of allergies and skin sensitivities, advancements in dermatology, and the introduction and popularisation of hypoallergenic products. Source: www.thebusinessresearchcompany.com

Transmare Chemie – dainad@transmare.com WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2025

ASSOCIATION NEWS/PLASTICS SA

Plastics SA sets new benchmark for environmental stewardship More than 120 000 volunteers across all nine provinces rolled up their sleeves to take part in Clean-Up & Recycle SA Week, from 15 to 20 September.

his annual campaign, coordinated by Plastics SA, brought together communities, schools, businesses, municipalities and environmental organisations. Together they cleaned up beaches, rivers, parks and neighbourhoods throughout our country, ensuring that plastic waste is kept out of the environment, water sources and the ocean. “The Clean-Up & Recycle SA Week is about more than just picking up litter. It educates, inspires and empowers South Africans to take

Strandfontein beach clean-up in the Western Cape

responsibility for their environment. This year we distributed nationwide more than 400 000 of our yellow clean-up bags through more than 75 coordinators, who worked closely with local municipalities, community groups and non-profit organisations,” says Douw Steyn, sustainability director at Plastics SA.

image: gettyimages

A NATIONWIDE EFFORT Major clean-ups took place across the country, from coastal areas to inland communities: • In KwaZulu-Natal, hundreds of volunteers from Durban supported the Clean Surf Project, theThekwini Municipality and the Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment cleaning the Amanzimtoti, Isipingo and Dakota beaches as well as the Mbokodweni river mouth. • In the Western Cape, Plastics SA, Petco, Polyco and CleanC participated in a largescale clean-up at Strandfontein Beach, organised by Polyoak Packaging. More than 300 Polyoak employees took part. Collected waste was transported to CleanC’s sorting facility, where recyclable materials were separated for recovery. • The Theewaterskloof Municipality clean-up in Villiersdorp, organised in collaboration with

When we work together, we can make a lasting difference 42

The Theewaterskloof Municipality clean-up in Villiersdorp

Polyco, Plastics SA and the Western Cape Government, attracted over 150 participants. Waste was sorted and weighed, with clean plastics and glass collected by a local buy back centre for recycling. “Across the country, the enthusiasm of the volunteers stood out as a highlight. In KwaZuluNatal, we saw youth ambassadors leading clean-ups along Dakota Beach, transforming the event into an engaging educational experience for students,” Steyn reported.

COLLABORATION MAKES IT POSSIBLE The success of the 2025 campaign was made possible through the ongoing support of industry partners such as Sasol, Safripol and Tuffy; Producer Responsibility Organisations (PROs) Polyco, Petco, eWASA, SAVA, Metpac, PAMSA, Fibre Circle and the Glass Recycling Company alongside committed organisations including Packaging SA, Coca Cola, Unilever, Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment, Department of Water and Sanitation, CleanC, WESSA, SAAMBR, SST, ARMOUR and our provincial coordinators.

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As the national coordinator, Plastics SA played a vital role in: • securing sponsorship to produce official clean-up bags • managing nationwide distribution of bags to coordinators and partner organisations • promoting the campaign online. “Our gratitude goes to every sponsor, coordinator and volunteer who made this year’s campaign possible. Despite challenges such as funding constraints and high transport costs to reach rural areas, the commitment of our partners ensured that communities nationwide could participate in meaningful clean-ups,” Steyn adds.

A VISION FOR GROWTH AND AWARENESS While waste separation remains a challenge in many areas due to logistical limitations, several regions are making progress in sorting and recycling the collected materials. Plastics SA hopes that future campaigns will see even greater emphasis on waste sorting, recycling education and public awareness. “Our vision is simple – cleaner rivers, beaches and communities because of more South Africans saying ‘don’t litter, recycle’! Each year we’re seeing growth in participation and awareness, proving that when we work together, we can make a lasting difference,” he concludes. •

Clean-up & Recycle SA – www.cleanupandrecycle.co.za Plastics SA – www.plasticssa.co.za

A full-service experience

Review In an industry where every millimetre of package space tells a story, VR Print has carved out a reputation as the label technology partner that transforms complex packaging challenges into competitive advantages.

Buckle Packaging is driving sustainable growth across Southern Africa. The company continues to lead the charge in sustainable packaging innovation, helping manufacturers across diverse industries transition to eco-friendly solutions without compromising on performance.

In a market where packaging choices can make or break product success, Bright Packaging & Raw Materials has established itself as the go-to partner for companies seeking quality, flexibility, and sustainability without compromise.

Read more in the latest issue of Packaging Review Out Now! www.b2bcentral.co.za/digital-issues/packaging-review-issue-5-2025/

ADVERTISING

Interested in advertising in PACKAGING REVIEW? If you are a supplier to the packaging industry, this will be an ideal opportunity to showcase your product offering and create additional brand awareness within the food, beverage, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, personal care, and home care manufacturing sectors.

Contact our advertising Key Account Managers to book your space: Càndida Giambò-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@media24.com

Pepa Giesing +27 (0)72 187 2757 pepa.giesing@media24.com

Frosting & Printing available

Tel: (010)745-7097 / (011)624-3493 Email: admin@mocopack.co.za | sales@mocopack.co.za www.mocopackaging.co.za 5 Sandvale Road, Isandovale, Edenvale, 1609

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Nov/Dec 2025