Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review January 2026

January 2026 Volume 53 | Number 1

53

years

www.pharmacos.co.za R69,95 Incl VAT

2026 BEAUTY FORECAST Matte lips & multichrome eyes

Smart skincare ingredients

Innovative tools for pharma labs

Win with new labelling solutions

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 ALPHA II - Compact and Reliable FT-IR Spectroscopy State-of-the-Art FT-IR spectrometers should be efficient and straightforward above all else. The ALPHA II follows this approach and makes FT-IR analysis easier than ever before. The user can swiftly exchange Bruker’s versatile QuickSnap™ sampling modules to ideally fit the device to almost any kind of sample (e.g. solids, liquids and gases).  BRAVO - Handheld Raman Spectrometer BRAVO mitigates fluorescence (SSE™), addresses a large spectral range (Duo LASER™) including CH stretching region and is a class 1M Laser product. The intuitive and guide workflow gives the ability for Raman spectroscopy into everybody’s hands LUMOS II - Fully Automated Stand-Alone FT-IR Microscope LUMOS II provides best performance for visual inspection and infrared spectral analysis of micro samples with highest comfort in use.

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Innovation with Integrity

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F T-IR, F T-NIR, R AMAN

Contents www.pharmacos.co.za

6 News

Sami-Sabinsa Group commits to sustainable pharma manufacturing New pharma warehouse opens in Joburg IMCD strengthens its presence in the USA

27 16

18 Home Care

High-speed checkweighers for detergent production Modular breakthrough transforms cleaning chemistry R&D

24 Colour Cosmetics & Makeup Trends The power of emollients in lip gloss formulation 2026 beauty forecast: Innovation opportunities for local brands

28 Packaging/ Labelling Interactive labelling solutions for brands that win Automated print inspection transforms QA in pharma packaging

34 Association News

Coschem celebrates the year end with three regional events

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10 Skincare Solutions

Top business honour for Skin functional’s Shannon Dougall Microalgae technology drives innovation in skincare 2026 skincare trends: smarter ingredients & simplified routines

16 Pharma Focus/ Laboratory Technology Innovative tools shaping the modern laboratory WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2026

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FROM THE EDITOR

The team EDITORIAL

Formulating for the future

H

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@media24.com LAYOUT & DESIGN: Andipha Nkoloti PRODUCTION CONTROLLER: Mandy Ackerman COVER IMAGE: gettyimages

ADVERTISING

appy New Year! As we kick off 2026, the prospects of innovation and growth remain strong in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. January brings our annual focus on the trends set to shape both industries in the months ahead.

This issue is packed with forward-thinking insights that'll keep you ahead of the curve.

The skincare space is particularly exciting this year, with a clear shift towards simplified routines and smarter, multitasking ingredients. We're seeing fascinating developments in microalgae-derived actives and barrier-supporting formulations – perfect for the diverse South African market. The body-careas-skincare trend is gaining strong momentum, offering fantastic opportunities for manufacturers to innovate.

In colour cosmetics, the Y3K aesthetic is making waves with futuristic metallics and holographic finishes, whilst sustainable packaging solutions continue to drive real change across the industry.

This month our pharma focus is centred on cutting-edge technologies that are revolutionising efficiency and compliance standards in pharmaceutical laboratories.

What strikes me most about this year’s trends is the perfect balance between sustainability, efficacy and accessibility – exactly what South African consumers are demanding. Whether you're formulating, manufacturing or supplying, these insights will help you navigate the exciting opportunities ahead.

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AI DISCLAIMER At Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review, we employ AI software as part of our editorial workflow to assist with research processes and content refinement. While AI technology enhances our efficiency and capabilities, we maintain our commitment to journalistic integrity through rigorous human oversight. All content generated or refined using AI tools undergoes thorough review and fact-checking by our professional editorial team. This human-led approach allows us to leverage innovative technology while upholding the quality and reliability our readers expect and deserve. Should you have any concerns regarding our use of AI please send an email to abby.vorster@media24.com.

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COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - T he Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

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Elevating Colour Cosmetics to Soft-Focus Perfection.

Soft-Focus Beauty. Real-Life Wear.

NEWS

Sami-Sabinsa Group commits to sustainable pharma manufacturing Sami-Sabinsa Group has inaugurated its ninth pharmaceutical manufacturing facility, the Hassan Unit2 herbal production plant in Karnataka’s Pharma SEZ Industrial Area. The $15 million investment significantly expands India’s cosmeceutical manufacturing and standardised herbal extracts production capacity.

The cGMP-certified manufacturing facility was officially opened on 5 December 2025. Dr Anju Majeed, executive group chairperson, led the ceremony alongside Karnataka Legislative Assembly Member Dr HD Ranganath.

“The new herbal ingredients manufacturing facility will strengthen our ability to serve global customers with both patented herbal products and off-patent nutraceuticals,” said Dr Anju Majeed. “It is expected to significantly enhance Sami-Sabinsa Group’s export performance and contribute to substantial revenue growth in the pharmaceutical manufacturing sector.”

The 15-acre herbal production facility joins Hassan Unit1, Sami-Sabinsa’s NSF GMP-certified API manufacturing plant established in 2020 in the same Pharma SEZ Industrial Area. Hassan Unit-2 represents the company’s

commitment to sustainable pharmaceutical manufacturing through advanced Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) technology.

The environmentally conscious manufacturing facility is fully compliant with current Good Manufacturing Practices (cGMP) standards. It will generate employment for 250 people in the Hassan pharmaceutical manufacturing sector. Strategic expansion planning reserves 30% to 40% of land for future herbal ingredients production growth.

Hassan’s strategic location in Karnataka provides convenient access to India’s east and west coast ports.

This enhances the company’s pharmaceutical export capabilities and supports the Make in India initiative for nutraceutical manufacturing.

The Hassan Unit-2 launch reinforces India’s position as a global pharmaceutical manufacturing hub and supports the country’s herbal medicine export growth.

It strengthens Sami-Sabinsa‘s ingredient portfolio expansion while focusing on innovative herbal product development for the international nutraceutical and cosmeceutical markets.

New pharma warehouse opens in Joburg Bidvest International Logistics (BIL) has established a cutting-edge pharma storage facility in Johannesburg to meet rising distribution demands while adhering to strict regulatory guidelines.

BIL’s new pharmaceutical warehouse is situated near OR Tambo International Airport. This strategic location enhances accessibility to air and road routes, ensuring goods delivery efficiency.

Furthermore, the facility has advanced technologies, such as electronic inventory management and validated temperature monitoring systems. These ensure it meets international benchmarks.

Some of the key features of this facility include: • SAHPRA accreditation: It is approved to store and distribute Schedule 0 to 6 medicines.

• Temperature-controlled settings: The facility ensures reliability across product categories.

• Customs efficiency: It offers degroup capabilities and speeds up cargo processing.

A critical element of the pharmaceutical warehouse in Johannesburg is its uncompromising security protocol. BIL’s facility is TAPA A certified, which is the highest accolade in asset security measures, further reassuring clients of stringent safeguards for high-value medicines.

This warehouse reflects BIL’s dedication towards infrastructure upgrades, promoting resilience in pharmaceutical logistics. By consolidating goods under one roof, it reduces operational costs and time delays, fostering growth within South Africa’s dynamic healthcare market.

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To mark the occasion Dr Anju Majeed, Sami-Sabinsa executive group chairperson, members of senior management and employees were joined by Shri Dr HD Ranganath, a member of the legislative assembly of Kunigal, India

BIL’s new pharmaceutical warehouse SAHPRA approved and situated near OR Tambo International Airport

It is approved to store and distribute Schedule 0 to 6 medicines

NEWS

Bio-designed barrier reinforcement for sensitive skin Beyond striking preclinical biomarker results, proven barrier reinforcement, and instant and long-lasting hydration, new tests demonstrate the visible comfort and sensory benefits of DS-CERAmix-V™ for dry and sensitive skin.

DS-CERAmix-V™ is a bio-designed, skin-inspired liquid crystal lamellar system from Croda Beauty Actives. It delivers essential stratum corneum lipids including an optimised 2:1:1 ratio of ceramide NP, ceramide AP and phytosphingosine to closely mimic the skin’s natural composition. This structure reinforces the barrier ‘scaffold’ and moisture-retaining lamellae.

In a 28-day study, DS-CERAmix-V™ reduced skin roughness by up to 24% versus baseline, visibly improving skin texture compared to the placebo (see figure 1). Additional tests showed a 38.8% increase in elasticity after five days, a 57.3% increase in hydration on sensitive skin compared to T0 and a 81% reduction in itching scores versus baseline, bringing rapid comfort to irritated skin.

Neurobeauty testing using EEG demonstrated that, despite similar texture to a placebo cream, DSCERAmix-V™ uniquely shifts emotional responses toward greater relaxation, comfort and pampering during application. RSPO certified, vegan-suitable and IECIC compliant, DS-CERAmix-V™ offers brands a powerful, science-backed story to address the new standard in barrier-care and sensitive-skin formulations.

Figure 1: Roughness reduction

T0

T28

The opening celebration brought together IMCD’s partners, customers and employees for an evening of connection

IMCD strengthens its presence in the USA IMCD Group, a global leading partner in the distribution and formulation of speciality chemicals and ingredients, has opened a new beauty & personal care laboratory in Brea, California. The new laboratory is located at the group’s new offices in the region and forms part of IMCD’s growing network of 80+ technical centres worldwide.

The opening celebration brought together IMCD partners, customers and employees for an evening of connection.

Guests were able to visit the new lab facilities where creativity meets science and to experience the new space.

Designed as a hub for co-creation, the new facility offers an expanded laboratory alongside meeting areas dedicated to development meetings, formulation workshops and brainstorming sessions. These innovative facilities will allow IMCD teams, customers and principals to explore concepts together and turn ideas into market ready prototypes with greater speed and efficiency.

Ian Lawrence, director of IMCD Beauty & Personal Care Americas, commented: “This new laboratory represents how we want to be the formulation go-to partner for our customers. It embodies innovation, collaboration and technical excellence, which are the foundations of how we differentiate ourselves in the market. We are excited to strengthen our presence on the West Coast and to continue building meaningful partnerships.”

Danielle Wheeler, technical director of IMCD Beauty and Personal Care Americas, added: “Our approach is to inspire, support curiosity and bring forward solutions that help brands stand out in a fast-moving beauty landscape.

This facility allows us to create and test ideas directly with our customers, and to turn consumer and market trends into actionable concepts.”

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2026

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2026

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SKINCARE SOLUTIONS

Science-first approach earns SKIN functional founder top business honour Local cosmetic scientist turned entrepreneur, Shannon Dougall is recognised for building a transparency-focused skincare brand with global expansion plans.

S

hannon Dougall, founder and formulator of South African skincare brand SKIN functional, has been awarded the prestigious 2025 Santam Woman of the Future Award, cementing her position as a leading figure in the country’s cosmetic science landscape. The accolade is reserved for entrepreneurs whose businesses have operated for more than 1 000 days and demonstrate exceptional potential for extensive growth. It also recognises Dougall’s innovative approach to evidence-based skincare formulation.

image: gettyimages

BUILDING ON SCIENTIFIC FOUNDATION SKIN functional emerged from Dougall’s personal battle with persistent skin challenges and her background in cosmetic science. Rather than accepting conventional solutions, she leveraged her scientific expertise to bridge the gap between skin physiology and raw material chemistry, developing what she terms ‘data-backed formulas’, which prioritise transparency and efficacy over marketing hype.

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The brand’s positioning centres on what SKIN functional calls ‘honourable SKINtelligence’ – a commitment to jargonfree communication and complete ingredient transparency. This approach has resonated strongly within an industry often criticised for opaque marketing claims and questionable ingredient concentrations.

“My mission remains to positively impact as many customers as possible,” explains Dougall. “We’ve built our reputation on creating science-driven formulas that deliver on their promises, backed by transparent ingredient disclosure and optimal active concentrations.”

PRODUCT PORTFOLIO AND FORMULATION STRATEGY SKIN functional’s extensive range demonstrates Dougall’s systematic approach to addressing specific skin concerns through targeted ingredient combinations. The range includes products formulated with high-concentration actives such as a 10% Niacinamide + 2% NAG +

We’ve built our reputation on creating science-driven formulas that deliver on their promises 1% Succinic Acid + 1% Zinc serum, and a 5% Tranexamic Acid + 1% Hexylresorcinol formulation for pigmentation concerns.

The brand’s ‘optimal concentrations’ philosophy ensures that active ingredients are present at scientifically effective levels without including redundant additives. This minimalist approach extends to specialised formulations including peptide complexes (Matrixyl + EGF + Peptides), advanced moisturisers incorporating 5% Black Ginseng + ATP Complex, and multi-acid exfoliating

SKINCARE SOLUTIONS

tonics featuring 7% Glycolic Acid with botanical extracts.

Dougall’s ingredient sourcing strategy involves extensive travel to secure innovative raw materials from reputable suppliers, ensuring formulation integrity from conception to finished product.

Shannon Dougall and Norah Sehunoe, Santam executive head: human capital

OVERCOMING MANUFACTURING CHALLENGES The early phases of SKIN functional’s development were marked by significant cash flow constraints, which is a typical challenge facing any emerging business.

Dougall implemented a ‘just-in-time’ approach to inventory management, coupled with meticulous budgeting practices that allowed sustainable scaling within limited financial parameters.

“The early days required smart resource allocation and efficient strategies to optimise where capital mattered most,” reflects Dougall. “Managing cash flow whilst maintaining product quality and securing reliable suppliers who could handle our growing capacity needs was particularly challenging.”

Finding manufacturing partners capable of handling SKIN functional’s specific formulation requirements and growing production volumes within tight timelines presented additional operational hurdles that required strategic supplier relationship management.

MARKET DIFFERENTIATION THROUGH EDUCATION SKIN functional’s business model integrates consumer education as a revenue driver, treating transparency and ingredient education as investments in customer loyalty and organic marketing growth. The brand provides comprehensive educational resources including ingredient glossaries, routine builders, and myth-busting guides that empower industry professionals and end consumers to make informed product selections.

This educational approach has generated measurable business results, with the brand achieving triple-digit sales growth in its first three months through word-ofmouth referrals and social Shannon Dougall, founder and formulator of South African skincare brand SKIN functional

media engagement driven by transparent,

Dougall’s recognition highlights

data-driven messaging.

The brand’s dermatologically tested products are available through major South African retailers including Dis-Chem, Woolworths, and Takealot, alongside international distribution through Amazon and other global platforms.

the growing importance of scientific credibility and transparent communication in brand development.

“This award highlights the possibilities achievable through hard work and determination,” notes Dougall. “It’s a platform to inspire other women entrepreneurs to pursue their vision with confidence and perseverance.”

As SKIN functional prepares for its next growth phase, Dougall’s success demonstrates the commercial viability of transparency focused, sciencedriven skincare brands in an increasingly sophisticated marketplace. Her achievement serves as a strong case study for emerging cosmetic science entrepreneurs seeking to build credible, scalable businesses within South Africa’s growing personal care manufacturing sector.

For an industry continually balancing efficacy claims with regulatory compliance, Dougall’s approach offers a blueprint for sustainable growth through scientific integrity and transparent communication. •

GLOBAL EXPANSION STRATEGY Looking ahead, Dougall has outlined ambitious plans for international growth, positioning SKIN functional for global market penetration through strategic distributor partnerships. Her expansion strategy seeks to maintain the integrity and scientific ethos of her brand whilst scaling operations internationally.

“Our global expansion will be structured around our core brand pillars to ensure consistency in quality, messaging and scientific approach as we scale,” explains Dougall. “We’re seeking distributor partners who align with our vision of transparency and efficacy driven skincare.”

SKIN functional’s expansion comes at a time when the global cosmetics market increasingly demands transparency and scientific validation. This positions the brand’s evidence-based approach as particularly relevant for international markets seeking authentic, effective skincare solutions.

INDUSTRY IMPACT AND RECOGNITION The Santam Woman of the Future Awards, in association with FAIRLADY and TRUELOVE magazines, recognise entrepreneurs demonstrating innovation, vision, resilience, leadership and commitment to social change.

For the cosmetic manufacturing industry,

DID YOU KNOW SKIN functional is a result of a collaborative effort with a combined experience of 30 years across various fields. Integrating the fields of pharmacology, chemistry, clinical dermatology and aesthetic medicine.

The brand is based on peer-reviewed literature, which forms the basis of SKIN functional’s endorsement.

SKIN functional – skinfunctional.com WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2026

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SKINCARE SOLUTIONS

Microalgae technology drives innovation in skincare The cosmetics industry is experiencing a paradigm shift towards sustainable, marine-derived active ingredients, with microalgae technology emerging as a cornerstone of innovation. As consumer demand for environmentally responsible products continues to grow, manufacturers are increasingly turning to these microscopic powerhouses to deliver effective, science-backed solutions for skin health and anti-ageing applications.

images: gettyimages

N

owadays, there is huge interest in natural products obtained from marine organisms that can promote a state of health and well-being for humans. Microalgae represent a primary source of bioactive compounds that can be used as functional ingredients in various application areas.

In recent years, the study of microalgae has intensified and the cosmeceutical interest in this precious resource is now wellestablished. Microalgae are true biofactories containing numerous active molecules that can positively impact the human body. They are used today in various industries, including medical, food and the cosmetic industry.

Nature has designed microalgae to survive in diverse ecosystems and withstand harsh environmental conditions. This evolutionary trait allows microalgae to effectively counter environmental stress factors through specific metabolites that nature has developed to help them adapt. Often, active substances are produced in response to specific stimuli, such as high or low temperatures, high salinity, osmotic pressure, photo-oxidation and ultraviolet radiation.

It is widely recognised that microalgae metabolites exhibit a broad range of biological activities, such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation absorption, antioxidant, anti-ageing, antiblemish, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Scientific research today focuses on defining the best cultivation conditions

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to maximise the production and quality of active ingredients and develop industrially sustainable extraction processes.

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT AND SUSTAINABILITY From an environmental perspective, microalgae offer compelling advantages.

These organisms contribute 32% of the world’s photosynthetic activity and capture CO₂ more efficiently than plants, playing a crucial role on our planet.

Modern cultivation methods leverage photosynthesis to convert solar energy and CO₂ into biomass without chemical processes, agrochemicals, or pollutants.

The production process achieves remarkable sustainability metrics, including 98% water savings through reuse systems and 100% renewable energy utilisation via closed-circuit waste recycling. This ecofriendly approach aligns perfectly with the industry’s growing commitment to sustainable manufacturing practices.

and COSMOS approved ingredients from microalgae production ensure natural and sustainable origin, providing brand owners and manufacturers with certified solutions for premium formulations.

Leading this innovation wave is MARINE REVITALYS HPTM, developed by Natura-Tec and distributed in South Africa by Carst & Walker.

This powerful restructuring and cell revitalising active represents the cutting edge of marine biotechnology applications in skincare.

MARINE REVITALYS HP TM, a hydrosoluble cosmetic active ingredient, is designed to counteract physiological and environmentally induced skin ageing by promoting cellular restructuring and revitalisation and delivering anti-ageing benefits.

The active ingredient’s primary component is Haematococcus pluvialis extract, a freshwater microalgae rich in proteins and minerals. This natural source provides the foundation for the product’s significant anti-ageing properties.

A POWERFUL ACTIVE INGREDIENT

PROVEN EFFICACY THROUGH SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH

The cosmetics market is increasingly focused on sustainable, eco-friendly solutions that deliver proven efficacy. Microalgaederived actives are perfectly positioned to meet these demands, offering versatility across anti-ageing, hydration, skin repair and rebalancing applications. ECOCERT

The efficacy of MARINE REVITALYS HP TM has been demonstrated through comprehensive laboratory testing. Key findings include: • 38.8% reduction in p53 expression with 0.5% of the active ingredient applied topically to counteract physiological ageing.

SKINCARE SOLUTIONS

• 45% reduction in p53 expression with 0.5% of the active ingredient applied topically to counteract induced ageing (free radical damage).

• Morphological analysis showed significantly healthier fibroblast cells at the same concentration.

The mechanism of action of MARINE REVITALYS HP TM centres on p53 pathway inhibition. As documented in the efficacy studies, p53 is a pivotal protein involved in preserving genomic integrity under stress. It induces DNA damage repair and apoptosis.

MARINE REVITALYS HP TM’s ability to inhibit p53 synthesis leads to the protection of cells from apoptosis, slowing down timeinduced changes in cells. It also increases cellular longevity and improves resistance to oxidative stress.

FORMULATION FLEXIBILITY AND APPLICATIONS MARINE REVITALYS HP TM offers excellent formulation flexibility for skincare brands and manufacturers. The ingredient can be used at concentrations between 0.2% and 2% and is compatible with water-in-oil and

Natura.indd 1

MARINE REVITALYS HP TM offers excellent formulation flexibility oil-in-water emulsions. The product should be incorporated at the end of the formulation process during the cooling step to maintain its efficacy.

Typical applications include: • Daily creams for general skin maintenance.

• Anti-ageing care products targeting fine lines and wrinkles.

• Hydrating and restructuring creams.

• Premium cosmeceutical formulations.

MEETING SKINCARE MARKET DEMANDS As scientific research continues to unlock the potential of marine-derived actives, microalgae technology represents a sustainable pathway for skincare

innovation. Products like MARINE REVITALYS HP TM demonstrate how advanced biotechnology can deliver proven skincare benefits whilst maintaining environmental responsibility.

For South African manufacturers seeking to develop next-generation skincare solutions, microalgae-derived actives offer the perfect combination of efficacy, sustainability and market appeal. With distribution through Carst & Walker, these innovative ingredients are readily accessible to local formulators looking to create premium, science-backed formulations that meet evolving consumer demands.

The future of skincare lies in harnessing nature’s own solutions, refined through advanced biotechnology.

MARINE REVITALYS HP TM exemplifies this approach, delivering cellular-level benefits that address the fundamental mechanisms of skin ageing whilst supporting the industry’s commitment to sustainable innovation. • Carst & Walker – carst.com Natura-Tec – www.natura-tec.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2026

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2025/12/11 13:00

SKINCARE SOLUTIONS

Trending in 2026: Simple routines & smarter ingredients If 2025 was the year of experimentation, 2026 is shaping up to be the year of intentional skincare. Consumers are looking for routines that feel lighter, smarter and more effective while paying closer attention to the ingredients behind their favourite products.

X

olani Sibanze of Clere Tissue Oil says that 2026 is going to be about simpler routines, smarter ingredients and products that deliver real, visible results.

“People want their skincare products to work harder without complicating their daily routines,” he explains. “There’s a clear shift towards formulas that offer comfort and performance.”

As the beauty landscape evolves, consumers are becoming increasingly intentional about the products they choose. Value, ease of use and trustworthy ingredients are shaping purchasing behaviour, particularly in South Africa, where multifunctional products have long been part of everyday skincare routines.

These drivers set the stage for the skincare themes emerging in 2026.

images: gettyimages

WHAT’S TRENDING IN 2026 Sibanze highlights five key trends set to shape the year ahead: 1. The rise of multi-tasking products – with consumers seeking to simplify their routines without sacrificing results, multifunctional products are set to dominate 2026. People want fewer steps, more benefits and maximum value. Tissue oils are known for their multi-purpose offering.

For example, Clere Tissue Oil moisturises, nourishes, restores and improves the appearance of scars and stretch marks.

2. Body care becomes skincare – taking centre stage in 2026, consumers are

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Consumers will value affordable skincare that delivers a premium experience treating the skin below the neck with the same care and high-quality ingredients they apply to their face. They are gravitating towards richer oils, ceramides and barrier-repairing formulas in body care applications.

3. Skin barrier support remains a priority – environmental stressors and increasingly fast-paced lifestyles have pushed barrier protection to the forefront of skincare priorities. Hydration boosters, replenishing oils and antioxidant-rich formulations are key to maintaining resilient, healthy looking skin.

4. Spotlight on stretch mark care – consumers are embracing realistic beauty standards, while still seeking products that help improve skin texture and boost confidence. Targeted yet gentle products that provide visible results will continue to trend. Clere Tissue Oil is formulated with sweet almond oil, which is known

for reducing the appearance of stretch marks. Vitamin E is added to the formula for deeply moisturising and improving skin tone, delivering reassuring, visible results with consistent use.

5. Accessible luxury – amid economic pressures, consumers are seeking products that feel indulgent without the high price tag. High-performing oils and sensorial textures that offer moments of everyday luxury are leading the trend.

Consumers will value affordable skincare that delivers a premium experience.

A RENEWED FOCUS ON SIMPLICITY Skincare in 2026 is ultimately about creating routines that feel effective while being effortless.

Sibanze concludes, “Whether through multitasking formulas, barrier-friendly ingredients or targeted oils that support confidence and comfort, the trends reflect a growing desire for products that genuinely work in harmony with everyday life. The year ahead promises a renewed focus on simplicity, nourishment and skin-first thinking.” • Clere – clere.co.za

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Issue 4 | 2024

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BUYERORATO ’S GUID RY E

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o.z a A guide to equipmen choosing th e co t for yo ur appl rrect labora ication tory r.c

Vacuum and Overpressure from a Single Source Pfeiffer Vacuum now supplied by Busch Group Africa

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CHANNELS ALTERNATE MONTHLY MAGAZINE | WEBSITE | MONTHLY INDUSTRY NEWSLETTER | BUYER’S GUIDE To advertise, contact Samantha.Morgan@media24.com

PHARMA FOCUS/LABORATORY TECHNOLOGY

Assist Plus pipetting robot

Innovative tools shaping the modern laboratory Labotec supplies a curated portfolio of trusted laboratory technologies designed to support accuracy, safety and compliant operation across pharmaceutical, cosmetic, research, and industrial environments.

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Their performance highlights include: • Up to 59% faster cycles.

• Up to 63% water savings.

• Optional IQ/OQ validation for audits.

his article features a selection of advanced laboratory technologies now available exclusively through Labotec in Southern Africa. It also highlights solutions that help laboratories streamline workflows and maintain high-quality standards.

ULTRA-LOW TEMPERATURE EXCELLENCE

PIPETTING ROBOT WITH AUTOMATED PRECISION

Orion Prostar meter

Automate routine liquid-handling with Integra’s intuitive Assist Plus pipetting robot. Simply mount a VIAFLO or VOYAGER pipette, load your labware, select a protocol, and press run.

The benefits of the pipetting robot include precise tip positioning, controlled speeds, optimal immersion depth, consistent angles and error-free, fully reproducible pipetting. The user can also swap pipettes to access new applications instantly.

image: gettyimages

CLEAN AIR CONFIDENCE TopAir ducted and ductless fume hoods deliver safety through their CE-compliance, with most of its ducted fume hoods being EN-14175 and ASHRAE 110-1995 tested.

TopAir’s solutions are ideal for any chemical handling need. They provide peace of mind by ensuring the safety of laboratory staff and in creating a protected and pleasant work environment.

Specialised models include: • Polypropylene hoods for high chemical resistance.

Miele Expertline glasswasher

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• Floor-mounted options for bulky equipment.

• Wet-scrubber and wash-down hoods for corrosive chemicals.

• Hybrid laminar flow fume hoods with clean-bench functionality.

Thermo ULT Freezer TSX70086

COMPLIANCE-READY WATER Engineered for GMP-regulated QC labs, the ELGA Purelab Pharma Compliance water purification system integrates advanced purification with secure, audit-ready software.

The system’s features include validation documentation for GxP environments, traceable digital records meeting FDA/EU requirements, ergonomic operation, and a low cost of ownership.

NEW STANDARD IN LABORATORY CLEANING Distributed exclusively by Labotec, Miele Professional’s ExpertLine glasswashers provide robust, GMP-ready automated cleaning – eliminating the risks of manual washing.

TopAir ducted fume hood

JANUARY 2026 // W W W.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Designed for high-demand environments, the Thermo Scientific TSX Universal ULT Freezer series offers tighter temperature control, faster recovery, universal voltage and expanded setpoint ranges. Sustainably built with ENERGY STAR certification and zero-waste-to-landfill manufacturing, the freezer series provides environmental impact transparency via the ACT label.

ELGA PureLab system

NEXT-GENERATION ELECTROCHEMISTRY Available from Labotec, the Thermo Scientific Orion™ Pro Star bench meter series elevates electrochemical analysis with intuitive touchscreen operation, advanced data management and GLP-ready traceability.

Optional secure mode allows for password protection with up to three administrator and 30 user accounts, each with customisable access levels. This provides a full audit trail, which is essential for data integrity requirements like those in FDA 21 CFR Part 11.

Highlights of this bench meter series include: • 7-inch glove-friendly touchscreen.

• 10 000 data-set storage.

• Secure multi-user access with audit trails.

• GLP and 21 CFR compliance.

• USB and accessory connectivity.

• Eight models for pH, conductivity, DO and multi-parameter testing. • Labotec – www.labotec.co.za

GROW NURTURE EVOLVE

Science is a journey.

A journey to continuously grow, nurture and evolve.

We are passionate about working side by side with our customers to understand challenges and make a

difference.

In providing the tools, we hope to collectively work towards better health, well-being, and a cleaner

environment.

QUALITY LABORATORY EQUIPMENT, SOLUTIONS, AND TECHNICAL SERVICE TO ACCELERATE SCIENCE TOGETHER IN SUB-SAHARAN AFRICA. www.labotec.co.za sales@labotec.co.za | +27 11 315 5434 | +27 21 531 7660 | +27 31 566 4870 | +254 72 682 9675 (Nairobi)

HOME CARE

High-speed checkweighers for detergent production Together with its local partner EAST, Minebea Intec has developed a checkweigher for Unilever Egypt which is precisely tailored to the requirements of detergent production.

image: gettyimages

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n industrial detergent production, high cycle rates are met with complex packaging processes. In addition to product quality, compliance with legal requirements is a central focal point. For example, fill quantity control, traceability and product safety all require compliance.

Checkweighers fulfil a central function in this context. They check whether the weight of each individual package is within defined tolerances. They also reliably eject products with incorrect weights, document deviations and make a significant contribution to process reliability and quality assurance.

High speeds and limited space in particular place unique demands on the weighing technology used – all of which are parameters present at Unilever Egypt.

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Based in Cairo, Unilever Egypt has been part of the global Unilever Group since 1991. The company produces and distributes consumer goods in the nutrition, personal care and household sectors. It is characterised by strong brands, high quality standards and sustainable production processes.

Unilever Egypt is a leading supplier on the Egyptian market, particularly in the detergent sector.

PRECISE WEIGHING AT HIGH LINE SPEEDS As part of a joint project with local partner company EAST, Minebea Intec integrated the Flexus® high-speed checkweigher into an existing production line for packaging detergents at Unilever Egypt. The scales are specially designed for industrial applications with high throughput and can achieve up to

Thanks to its compact, modular design, the Flexus ® could be easily integrated into the existing line 600 packs per minute – with consistently high measuring accuracy.

Thanks to its compact, modular design, the Flexus® could be easily integrated into the existing line. The hygienic design with stainless steel housing (IP54, optional IP65) also fulfils the requirements for cleaning and robustness in daily operation. In addition, the Flexus®

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checkweigher fulfils key industry standards such as MID and 21 CFR Part 11, which also qualifies it for regulated industrial areas.

CONTROLLED PROCESSES FOR RELIABLE PRODUCTION RESULTS The project at Unilever Egypt illustrates the role that precise checkweighers play in modern detergent production. They ensure compliance with fill quantities, enable traceability and contribute to process stability – even at high line speeds. The successful implementation shows how technological solutions can be integrated precisely into existing production environments together with experienced partners with tangible benefits for quality, efficiency and safety during ongoing operations.

“Close cooperation with Minebea Intec enabled us to meet the high requirements of Unilever Egypt with precision. Thanks to the compact design of the Flexus® checkweigher, we were able to quickly integrate the system into the existing line while significantly increasing efficiency, quality, and process reliability,” says engineer Beshoy Kamel of EAST. •

EAST – east-eg.com Minebea Intec – www.minebea-intec.com/en

Minebea Intec integrated the Flexus® high-speed checkweigher into an existing production line for packaging detergents at Unilever Egypt

3 INCREDIBLE BENEFITS 1. Efficient: Inspection of up to 600 packs per minute.

2. Flexible: Compact system with MID and 21 CFR Part 11 certification.

3. Hygienic: Stainless steel housing (IP54/ IP65), which is easy to clean.

SMALL FOOTPRINT, BIG IMPACT The project centred on the requirement for a compact high-speed checkweigher for the precise weighing of detergent in pre-packed cartons. Due to limited space, a compact design was crucial for the precise integration into the existing production line and now enables Unilever Egypt to manufacture efficiently, flexibly and with quality assurance. The checkweigher reliably and highly accurately checks the weight of the carton packaging at very high line speeds for consistent product quality and compliance with legal requirements.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2026

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HOME CARE

Modular breakthrough transforms cleaning chemistry R&D IMCD South Africa's SmartBase is revolutionising the cleaning product development landscape with its innovative modular formulation system.

This novel platform offers three performance-driven surfactant bases and 13 pre-validated formulations, enabling faster time-to-market whilst supporting sustainability goals.

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or decades, the formulation of cleaning products has relied on a traditional, time-consuming model: build from scratch, tweak for each application, and repeat. But as consumer expectations evolve and sustainability targets tighten, formulators are seeking smarter, faster and more efficient ways to innovate.

Enter SmartBase – IMCD South Africa’s modular cleaning system designed to simplify formulation, accelerate development and support more sustainable innovation across the home care and industrial cleaning sectors.

Instead of starting fresh for every new product, SmartBase provides a flexible, pre-validated architecture built on three performance-driven surfactant bases and an expanding library of 13 ready-to-adapt formulations. Plus it offers the versatility to create dozens more formulations.

image: gettyimages

ONE BASE WITH MULTIPLE USES At its core, SmartBase operates on a deceptively simple principle: start with one foundation and expand outward. Each of the three SmartBase variants has been engineered for a different market need:

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1. ValueBase for cost-effective efficiency – Designed for affordability and reliability, ValueBase combines high-performance surfactants such as Berol® ESL with the sustainable chelating agent, Dissolvine® GL 38. The result is a versatile, economical solution that delivers strong cleaning power without complexity.

2. EliteBase for premium performance – For formulators seeking top-tier results, EliteBase leverages Berol® R648 NG and Berol® 226 to deliver exceptional degreasing, stability and clarity. It is ideal for products that demand high performance in household and industrial applications.

3. EcoBase for certified sustainable innovation – Built around eco-optimised ingredients such as Berol® NEXXT and Berol® ENV 226, EcoBase aligns with EU Ecolabel, Nordic Swan and RSPO Mass Balance standards. It is solvent-free, low in dioxane and CMR-free, providing a credible route for companies striving to meet modern sustainability criteria.

Once the base is selected, formulators can choose from eight core concepts and five bonus creations, ranging from UniClean allpurpose cleaner and GreaseCut heavy-duty

degreaser to CarBright wash-and-shine and SneakerGuard protective spray. Each uses a straightforward process, enabling seamless lab-to-plant scale-up.

WHY GO MODULAR? The SmartBase concept represents a modernisation of cleaning chemistry, where flexibility, speed and sustainability converge. It helps to reduce complexity. The single modular system replaces numerous single-use formulations. This simplifies R&D pipelines, reduces inventory and raw-material management, and ensures reproducibility across product lines.

SmartBase also helps to accelerate time-to-market. Because the foundations are pre-validated for performance and stability, development cycles shrink dramatically. Manufacturers can introduce

DID YOU KNOW? SmartBase shifts the paradigm from product development to platform development. It’s a scalable system where one base can evolve into an entire portfolio of differentiated, market-ready cleaning solutions.

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technologies from WACKER – including Wacker 3155 Emulsion for shine and protection and Silfoam SE 47 for foam control.

Together, these components create a library of formulations that balance high performance with regulatory and environmental compliance, giving customers the confidence to innovate responsibly.

SMARTER, CLEANER, GREENER GROWTH

image: gettyimages

Whether developing a bathroom spray, car shampoo, or specialty stone protector, SmartBase provides the building blocks to create with confidence new SKUs or tailor existing ones without months of reformulation.

In support of sustainability, the SmartBase concept reduces water and packaging through concentrated formats. It also minimises transport emissions via lower product volumes. EcoBase, in particular, champions biodegradable ingredients and renewable feedstocks.

The system allows manufacturers to adjust fragrance, colour, viscosity and performance to suit diverse markets – from retail and private label to institutional and automotive care – without reinventing the chemistry.

Lastly, SmartBase simplifies manufacturing complexities. Fewer ingredients and harmonised formulations mean reduced energy use, easier cleaning between batches and simplified compliance documentation.

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FUNCTION MEETS INNOVATION Each SmartBase formulation integrates functional additives selected for proven performance and environmental responsibility. Chelating agents such as Dissolvine® GL-38 and GL-47-S manage metal ions, stabilise formulas, and enhance preservative efficacy while offering greener alternatives to EDTA. Surfactants like Berol® 226 and R648 NG deliver robust soil removal, foam control, and pH stability. Polymers such as Alcoguard® 4160 improve film formation and hard-water tolerance. Nano-silica additives like Berosol® EC provide easy-clean surface protection by making treated areas less prone to dirt build-up.

Preservatives including Euxyl® K 120 and Euxyl® PE 9010 ensure broadspectrum antimicrobial protection. Silicone

SmartBase is more than a toolkit – it’s a strategic enabler for the cleaning industry. It exemplifies IMCD’s expertise in translating chemistry into real-world performance, helping formulators shorten development cycles while meeting the rising demand for transparency, safety and sustainability.

By merging operational excellence (through lab-validated, scalable formulations) with sustainability excellence (through biodegradable ingredients and concentrated systems), SmartBase supports manufacturers in delivering economic and environmental value.

As consumer behaviour continues to shift toward conscious consumption and cleaner chemistry, modular formulation offers a practical path forward. It allows brands to diversify portfolios, customise regional offerings and maintain consistent quality – all while reducing their environmental footprint.

BUILDING THE FUTURE OF CLEANING SmartBase embodies the evolution of formulation philosophy – from bespoke recipes to adaptable platforms. It empowers chemists, manufacturers and brand owners to re-imagine what efficiency looks like in the cleaning industry: fewer inputs, faster scale-up and smarter sustainability.

Whether developing a bathroom spray, car shampoo, or specialty stone protector, SmartBase provides the building blocks to create with confidence.

With its trio of foundations – ValueBase, EliteBase and EcoBase – and 13 plugand-play formulations, IMCD South Africa has set a new benchmark for innovation in cleaning chemistry: one base, multiple possibilities, and a cleaner future for all. • For more information or technical collaboration opportunities, contact IMCD South Africa’s home care team. Explore how SmartBase can accelerate your next cleaning innovation.

IMCD South Africa – www.imcdsa.co.za

CUTTING EDGE CUTTING CUTTING TECHNOLOGY CUTTING EDGE CUTTING EDGE TECHNOLOGY TECHNOLOGY TECHNOLOGY TECHNOLOGY HIGH QUALITY INGREDIENTS FOR WELLNESS INDUSTRIES WITHQUALITY SENSORYINGREDIENTS EXPERTISE HIGH WITH SENSORY EXPERTISE HIGH QUALITY INGREDIENTS WHICH WILL SET YOU APART FOR WELLNESS INDUSTRIES WHICH WILL SET YOU APART FOR WELLNESS INDUSTRIES

From basic ingredients to specialty actives for ingredients key application areas: actives From basic ingredients From to specialty From basic basic ingredients to From basic ingredients to specialty specialty actives actives for key application for key application areas: for key application application areas: key areas: | Creams | Pastes Capsules | Tablets | for Liquids | Syrups | Emulsions Sun Care || Tablets Skin Care | Hair Care | Baby Care | Hygiene | Oral Care Capsules | Liquids | Syrups | Emulsions | Creams | Pastes Capsules Capsules || Tablets Tablets || Liquids Liquids || Syrups Syrups || Emulsions Emulsions || Creams Creams || Pastes Pastes

Johannesburg: +27 11 856 4500 Cape Town: +27 21 830 5306 Johannesburg: +27 11 856 4500 Johannesburg: +27 4500 Cape Town: +27 21 11 830856 5306 Johannesburg: 11 4500 Johannesburg: +27 11 856 Cape Town: +27+27 21 830 5306

Durban: +27 31 313 3338 Email: info@savannah.co.za Durban: +27 31 313 3338 Durban: +27 31 313 3338 Email: info@savannah.co.za Durban: +27 31 31 313 313 3338 3338 Durban: +27 Email: info@savannah.co.za

www.savannah.co.za www.savannah.co.za www.savannah.co.za www.savannah.co.za www.savannah.co.za

COLOUR COSMETICS & MAKE-UP TRENDS

The power of Emolid BDGA MB and Emolid DD in lip gloss formulation Explore IQL’s innovative emollients that transform lip gloss formulations. These sustainable, high-performance natural ingredients deliver exceptional performance whilst meeting today’s clean beauty needs.

images: gettyimages

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he lip gloss market is experiencing new dynamism as consumer

natural, dewy aesthetics has created significant demand for clean beauty formulations, while

preferences evolve towards multifunctional, sustainable and highperformance products. With the global lip gloss market reaching $4.02 billion in 2025 (according to Research and Markets) and projected to grow at a CAGR of 6.2% through 2029, formulators are under pressure to deliver innovative solutions that meet diverse consumer demands.

Two hero ingredients from IQL, distributed locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, are emerging as game-changers in this competitive landscape: 1. Emolid BDGA MB 2. Emolid DD.

millennials seek premium, non-sticky formulas with skincare benefits.

Consumer expectations have evolved beyond basic shine. Today’s lip gloss users demand multifunctional products offering hydration, SPF protection, a plumping effect and the inclusion of skincare ingredients. The rise of sustainable packaging solutions and 100% natural formulations reflect growing environmental consciousness, particularly among younger demographics. These market drivers necessitate innovative ingredient solutions that can deliver on performance and sustainability demands.

MARKET TRENDS DRIVING INNOVATION

Emolid BDGA MB stands out as a sophisticated solution to modern formulation challenges. With 92% naturally derived ingredients (ISO 16128 compliant), this innovative ingredient addresses the clean beauty trend whilst delivering exceptional performance. Its unique melting point of approximately 35°C enables a pleasant transformation upon lip contact. At normal lip temperature (36°C to 37°C), Emolid BDGA MB

The 2025 lip gloss market is characterised by several key trends that are reshaping product development. High-shine glossy finishes continue to dominate, representing 55% of the market, whilst social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram fuel viral trends such as #GlossyLips. Generation Z’s preference for

A TRANSFORMATIVE FILM FORMER

The combination of Emolid BDGA MB and Emolid DD creates powerful synergies that address multiple formulation challenges softens from being a paste to a liquid-paste hybrid, creating an optimal sensory experience.

This transformation capability provides formulators with good control over texture and application. The ingredient forms a thick yet soft film on lips, contributing to structural integrity and enhanced wearability. Its film-forming properties create a rich, dense layer that stays in place without migration – addressing consumer concerns about product bleeding or feathering.

The hybrid behaviour during application enhances colour payoff and wear, making it particularly valuable for pigmented lip gloss formulations.

A HIGH-PERFORMANCE NATURAL POLYMER Emolid DD represents a breakthrough in natural polymeric technology, being 100% naturally derived from rapeseed. This highviscosity polymer delivers exceptional technical performance whilst maintaining clean label credentials. Its refractive index of 1.4833 significantly boosts shine, making it essential for achieving the high-gloss finish that dominates current market preferences.

The ingredient’s superior adhesion properties provide comfortable stickiness without the unpleasant tackiness often associated with

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COLOUR COSMETICS & MAKE-UP TRENDS

traditional lip glosses. Emolid DD effectively suspends pigments and pearls, ensuring stable formulations over time. This is a critical factor for maintaining product quality during storage and use. Unlike conventional waxes or pastes, it maintains viscosity even at elevated temperatures (40°C to 50°C), providing formulators with enhanced stability and performance reliability.

SYNERGISTIC FORMULATION BENEFITS The combination of Emolid BDGA MB and Emolid DD creates powerful synergies that address multiple formulation challenges simultaneously. Emolid DD’s high viscosity (21 020mPa·s at 20°C) builds structure whilst its low oiliness after-feel provides the comfortable, silky texture consumers demand. Its filmforming and water-repellent properties enhance product longevity and provide transfer resistance.

The dual approach leverages Emolid DD as the primary suspending agent for pigments and pearls whilst Emolid BDGA MB provides film-forming capabilities for rich, glossy texture without migration.

This combination enables formulators to create lip glosses that are simultaneously high-shine, cushiony and comfortable whilst meeting naturality requirements.

CREATING THE PERFECT LIP GLOSS Formulating with these ingredients requires an understanding of their complementary properties. Emolid DD’s excellent solubility in oils, including mineral oil, olive oil and jojoba oil, provides flexibility in base oil selection.

Its compatibility with innovative esters like Sorbitan Sesquioleate and Triethylhexanoin enables sophisticated formulation approaches.

The incorporation process should ensure proper mixing and melting conditions to fully activate Emolid BDGA MB’s transformative properties. Formulators can leverage Emolid DD’s pigment suspension capabilities whilst utilising Emolid BDGA MB’s temperatureresponsive behaviour to create products that transform during application.

MEET TOMORROW’S DEMANDS TODAY Emolid DD and Emolid BDGA MB address key market trends whilst providing technical advantages that differentiate finished products.

The natural origin of both ingredients aligns with clean beauty demands, and their performance characteristics meet consumer expectations for high-shine and comfortable wear. Their combined use enables the creation of nonsticky formulations with advanced polymers that deliver superior sensory experiences.

For South African formulators seeking to compete in the global marketplace, Emolid

DID YOU KNOW? Lip gloss is more relevant than ever, offering hydration, versatility (wear alone or over lipstick), and that sought-after juicy look. Lip gloss appeals to a broad audience looking for easy, effective beauty.

BDGA MB and Emolid DD represent accessible innovation. Available from Savannah Fine Chemicals, these ingredients enable local manufacturers to create premium lip gloss products that meet international standards whilst addressing specific regional preferences.

The future of lip gloss lies in sophisticated ingredient combinations that deliver multiple benefits without compromise. Emolid BDGA MB and Emolid DD provide the foundation for nextgeneration products that satisfy consumers’ needs for performance, sustainability and sensory excellence. As the market continues evolving towards multifunctional, natural formulations, these hero ingredients position formulators at the forefront of innovation in the colour cosmetics category.

Their successful implementation enables the creation of lip gloss products that truly embody the future of colour cosmetics formulation. • IQL – cosmetics.iql-nog.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – savannah.co.za WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2026

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COLOUR COSMETICS & MAKE-UP TRENDS

2026 beauty forecast: Innovation opportunities for local brands

Global beauty giants are already retooling their 2026 pipelines around cool-toned cosmetics and hybrid matte formulations – creating immediate opportunities for agile South African brands. The question isn’t whether these trends will dominate, but whether your brand is ready to capitalise. By Abby Vorster

Matte lip formulations are experiencing a rebirth

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he beauty trends emerging over the past couple of months present formulators and brands with a unique set of challenges and opportunities. Cool-toned and multichrome colour palettes are reshaping pigment requirements, while polished yet natural-looking skin is demanding sophisticated base formulations. For South African formulators and brand owners, it’s important to understand these emerging trends to stay current. This knowledge also helps position your product development pipeline to capture tomorrow’s opportunities today.

images: gettyimages

THE COOL REVOLUTION There is a notable shift towards cool-toned formulations across lips, eyes and cheeks.

Kyle Anderson, national MAC makeup artist, told Cosmopolitan that this trend “exudes an 'it' factor” and represents a dramatic departure from the warm undertones that have dominated the past decade.

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lids. So, an eyeshadow that appears white under fluorescent lighting may show up as blue or pink once you step outside.

In a review of her top 10 multichrome eyeshadows, YouTuber Milli Davison showcases a range of options from Beauty Bay and The Pastel Roses which reflect the brightest warm golden tones. For example, a multichrome pressed eyeshadow by Pastel Roses shifts from a soft pink base to a lime green and bight pastel lemon yellow when applied. It’s simply beautiful.

For formulators, this translates into exciting opportunities in product development. Cool browns, greys and blue undertones are becoming essential, particularly in lip formulations where the ‘makeout lips’ trend is driving demand for diffused, cooler-toned finishes.

Another interesting opportunity for brands is the blue eyeshadow revival. According to the Cult Beauty website, the hashtag #blueeyeshadow amassed 43.6k posts on TikTok and searches on Google for blue eyeshadow were up by 65%. Cobalt, turquoise and icy blue hues – as seen on runways from Private Policy and Schiaparelli – require sophisticated colour chemistry to achieve vibrancy and wearability across diverse skin tones.

Another changing trend in eye makeup is multichrome eyeshadow. What comes across as a standard gold shadow in the pan may reflect red and green once swiped across the

SUPERMODEL SKIN IS HOT The minimalist ‘clean girl’ aesthetic is graduating into what industry experts call ‘supermodel skin’ – polished yet natural, with strategic sculpting and colour correction. Supermodel skin demands sophisticated base formulations that deliver hydration, coverage and longevity whilst maintaining an effortless finish.

Adding glam back into makeup looks, with modern and intentional placement, requires formulators to develop products that perform multiple functions. Think cream contours that blend seamlessly, or skin tints that provide buildable coverage without compromising on natural luminosity.

Susonity’s recent innovation in this space is particularly relevant. Previously known as Merck Surface Solutions, Susonity offers four proprietary silver-white effect pigments, aligned with Pantone's 2026 Color of the Year ‘Cloud Dancer’. These pigments present formulators

COLOUR COSMETICS & MAKE-UP TRENDS

with versatile options such as natural luminosity and bold metallic sparkles. Timiron® Liquid Silver and Timiron® Halo White exemplify the technical precision required for these evolving colour stories.

A REINVENTED ERA OF MATTE LIPS Sensient Beauty reports that matte lip formulations are experiencing a rebirth, driven by consumer demand for comfort without compromising on wear time. Today’s matte isn’t the parching liquid lipstick formula that dominated previous years – instead, formulators are developing cloud-soft, moisture-rich textures that deliver a diffused finish whilst maintaining wearability.

The technical breakthrough lies in creating formulations that avoid settling into lip lines or accentuating dryness. Modern matte formulas achieve an airbrushed effect through innovative texture development: mousse-like consistencies, soufflé-inspired bases and powder-infused systems that melt seamlessly upon application. These hybrid approaches balance traditional matte longevity with the comfort associated with lip oils and balms.

For formulators, the matte lip trend signals opportunities in developing sensorial nonglossy formulations that deliver professional-quality results without compromising comfort.

The challenge lies in balancing film-forming polymers for longevity with emollient systems that maintain hydration – creating what the industry terms ‘breathable matte’ finishes that feel as comfortable as traditional balms whilst performing like long-wear cosmetics.

A SHIMMERING FUTURE FOR MAKEUP The Y3K trend represents more than a nostalgic revival – it’s about incorporating futuristic

elements inspired by AI-generated aesthetics.

This trend is tech-inspired with looks that envision the year 3000, moving beyond Y2K nostalgia with bold metallics, chrome finishes, neon colours, holographic shimmer and 3D embellishments like gems and charms. It demands innovative approaches to shimmer and metallic finishes that feel both familiar and otherworldly.

The primary technical hurdle is to create saturated shimmers, which maintain stability across various formulation types. Susonity’s Timiron® Glam Silver and Ronastar® Silver are available in different particle sizes to create varying levels of sparkle intensity. These effect pigments also help brand owners and manufacturers maintain COSMOS compliance for brands focused on natural credentials.

STRATEGIC IMPLICATIONS FOR 2026 Looking ahead, successful beauty brands will need to balance several competing demands: 1. the nostalgia-driven Y3K aesthetic with sustainable formulation practices 2. the desire for natural ‘supermodel skin’ with performance-driven ingredient transparency 3. the cool-toned colour revolution with inclusive shade development.

There are considerable opportunities for innovation for South African brands and cosmetic chemists. Consider innovation in natural ingredients, sustainable packaging solutions and formulations designed for diverse skin tones – while being sure to capitalise on the global trend movements mentioned in this article.

The key to success in 2026 will be understanding that these trends don’t occur in isolation but are interconnected movements towards more conscious, technologically enhanced and aesthetically diverse beauty experiences. The formulators and brands that recognise these connections, and develop accordingly, will be the ones leading the industry forward. • REFERENCES: 1. Cosmopolitan: https://www.cosmopolitan.com/stylebeauty/beauty/a69822086/makeup-trends-that-will-bein-for-2026/ 2. Luxury London: https://luxurylondon.co.uk/wellbeing/ beauty/beauty-trends-2026-skincare-makeup-tech/ 3. LinkedIn.com 4. https://www.youtube.com/c/millidavison

Sensient Beauty – sensient-beauty.com Susonity – www.susonity.com WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2026

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PACKAGING/LABELLING

Interactive labelling solutions for brands that win VR Print helps brands do more than label products. The company works with clients to ensure their brands stand out, sell more, and build trust where it matters most.

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ith over 25 years of experience in the packaging industry, VR Print supplies high-performance, high-impact label solutions for the pharmaceutical, personal care and beauty industries. Clients rely on the company for expert service, fast turnaround and packaging that performs in retail spaces and highly regulatory environments.

Whether a product requires compliancedriven labelling, consumer engagement features, anti-counterfeit protection or distinctive embellishment, VR Print delivers.

From peel and read and booklet formats to secure QR codes and eye-catching finishes, the company’s offering is built to help brands communicate clearly, connect meaningfully, and sell with confidence.

image: gettyimages

SMART LABELLING THAT BUILDS Labels today are effective gateways to information, interactivity and brand assurance. They are no longer static components of packaging but active tools that connect consumers to digital experiences and help brands build trust through transparency and security.

VR Print delivers smart labelling solutions that go far beyond aesthetics, enabling traceability, product authentication and

VR Print helps brands increase sales with on-pack promotions that provide conversions or product education without requiring a special app. real-time engagement. The company offers integrated smart features including QR codes, NFC and RFID. These enable brands to connect consumers to sourcing details, video tutorials, ingredient disclosures or digital leaflets. VR Print also supports the need for Augmented Reality (AR) labels, which create enhanced product experiences and strengthen brand storytelling.

Through its partnership with Scantrust, VR Print offers secure QR codes that do far more than link consumers to online content.

They provide a connection, comply with digital labelling laws, detect counterfeits, fix distribution problems, and provide valuable campaign and scan data. These codes can drive loyalty programmes, promotions

PROMOTIONAL AND FUNCTIONAL FORMATS THAT SELL In the highly competitive FMCG space, VR Print helps brands increase sales with onpack promotions that provide conversions.

The company’s Peel and Win and coupon label formats are ideal for scan-to-win activations, hidden rewards or campaign engagement, helping products stand out and move quickly off shelf.

VR Print also specialises in multi-page label constructions such as Attach-A-Leaflet®, Peel and Read, and Booklet labels. These provide extra space for multilingual content, usage instructions, compliance messaging or legal copy without compromising packaging aesthetics. These formats are especially valuable for pharmaceutical and OTC products, as well as beauty brands needing clarity and shelf presence.

SECURE, COMPLIANT AND HIGH QUALITY BY DESIGN VR Print understands the high standards required in regulated markets like healthcare and pharmaceuticals. Labels are manufactured at the company’s facility under an ISO 9001:2015 certified quality system, with automated inspection and full traceability. The company also offers tamperevident constructions, extended content formats, temperature-sensitive indicators, and variable data print for batch level tracking and serialisation.

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PACKAGING/LABELLING

For enhanced product protection, it provides layered brand protection technologies that include overt features like holographic foils and tamper seals, and covert elements such as microtext, invisible inks and serialised microcodes. Combined with Scantrust secure QR codes, this provides multi-level security to safeguard brands and reassure consumers.

STAY AHEAD WITH FLEXIBLE DIGITAL PRINTING The company’s digital capabilities allow for short runs, fast prototyping and variable data printing. This is perfect for fast-changing campaigns, region-specific versions or traceability requirements.

VR Print’s flexible digital printing helps brands stay responsive, reduce waste and react quickly to market opportunities, all without compromising on print quality or turnaround times. It also offers extended colour gamut (ECG) printing, which enables a wider and more vibrant range of colours without the need for spot inks. ECG improves visual impact, lowers waste and enhances efficiency by reducing wash-ups and ink changes, making it both a visually striking and sustainable option.

VR Print supports sustainable labelling practices without compromising on packaging aesthetics or efficiency

SUSTAINABILITY THAT SUPPORTS PERFORMANCE VR Print supports sustainable labelling practices without compromising on packaging aesthetics or efficiency.

The company supplies recyclable and renewable label materials such as CleanFlake from Avery Dennison for PET recyclability, UPM wash-off adhesives for easy label removal, UPM Forest Film as a wood-based plastic alternative, and UPM Ocean Action Label made from oceanbound plastic waste.

DID YOU KNOW? VR Print is actively engaged with South Africa’s producer responsibility initiatives through Fibre Circle and Polyco. These partnerships, in support of the local circular economy, help promote better recycling outcomes, support industry collaboration and ensure that practices align with broader environmental goals.

The company employs UV LED curing technology in its production process which uses significantly less energy than conventional curing systems and is free from emissions. This enables VR Print to reduce its environmental impact without compromising on print quality or production speeds.

VR Print also guides customers on packaging material and design choices that improve recyclability and reduce excess packaging, helping meet environmental targets while keeping products market ready.

For brands seeking to enhance security and regulatory compliance, improve engagement and meet sustainability targets, VR Print’s smart labelling solutions provide a proven pathway to achieving these multiple objectives. •

VR Print – vrprint.co.za

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PACKAGING/LABELLING

Automated print inspection transforms quality assurance in pharma packaging A-Z Color’s implementation of automated quality control technology has eliminated production errors and transformed its reputation in the pharma packaging sector. The move from random sampling to 100% real-time inspection showcases how advanced print verification systems are becoming essential for GMP compliance.

W

ith over 30 years of experience, Polish company A-Z Color is one of the leading specialists in self-adhesive labels, heat-shrink labels and flexible packaging. At its modern production facility in Antonie near Ostroleka, the family-owned company with over 90 employees manufactures high-quality solutions for renowned customers in the cosmetics, food and pharmaceutical industries throughout Europe. Its mission: uncompromising precision in every print, especially in regulated markets. The label manufacturer confirms this promise of quality with ISO 9001:2015, BRC P&P Food Safety and FSC® certifications, as well as DPG qualification for the German market.

image: gettyimages

ZERO TOLERANCE FOR ERRORS In the pharmaceutical industry, precision is paramount. An incorrectly placed decimal point in dosage instructions, a slight change in batch number or a subtle colour change on a warning label can have serious consequences. These can include production stoppages, batch recalls, regulatory audits and threats to patient safety and brand reputation –unacceptable risks for GMPcompliant supply chains.

“It is our priority to deliver products that meet our customers' high expectations,” explains Katarzyna Zecer-Gołaszewska, partner at A-Z Color. “However, ensuring absolute reliability at every stage of production is a real challenge in a dynamic market, which is unforgiving of mistakes.”

Considering the challenge, A-Z Color was faced with the task of finding a

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future-proof, automated solution that would combine 100% reliability with maximum production speed.

SEARCHING FOR A SOLUTION A few years ago, A-Z Color implemented its first automated print inspection systems and evaluated their performance in long-term use.

The simple selection criteria included ultraprecise detection, stable 24/7 performance, seamless integration, user-friendly design and reliable operation.

“When selecting the right product, it is not only the technology and price that matter to us, but also the quality of cooperation,” emphasises Zecer-Gołaszewska. “We need partners who understand our requirements, share our quality standards and provide us with reliable support in our daily production. An evaluation of various quality control systems, considering pharmaceutical requirements and GMP guidelines, allowed us to make a clear decision.

While competing systems failed in areas critical to the pharmaceutical industry, EyeC systems reliably and consistently detected even the smallest deviations.”

A SOLUTION WHERE TECHNOLOGY MEETS PRACTICE The EyeC Proofiler 600 DT offline scanner system was used to check the print pattern, while EyeC ProofRunner Web inline systems were used for 100% inspection on the label printing line.

The EyeC Proofiler combines intelligent software with a high-resolution flatbed scanner and enables objective, repeatable quality control of text, colours, graphics, 1D

EyeC ProofRunner Web cameras capture every label during the printing process and 2D codes, as well as Braille. It digitally compares printed products with approved PDF templates, checking print quality and content accuracy. Based on this approach, EyeC ProofRunner Web cameras capture every label during the printing process. Each item is fully checked for accuracy, colour accuracy, registration accuracy and positioning accuracy, and then automatically verified.

The system detects and flags errors in real time, so that only error-free products are processed further. All EyeC systems are equipped with pixel-accurate comparison algorithms, which detect deviations of 0.1mm, enable real-time analysis at full production speed and automatically compensate for differences in materials and prints. Intelligent contrast analysis also prevents false alarms.

If deviations are detected, the system immediately notifies production, precisely locates the deviation and allows operators to make targeted corrections. By combining offline and inline systems, A-Z Color was able to fully digitise its quality control process.

The implementation was completed in record time without interrupting production.

PACKAGING/LABELLING

After two weeks of technical preparation, including analysis of production lines, infrastructure upgrades and definition of real-world test cases, three ProofRunner Web systems were installed, calibrated and tested in a single day with the active support of A-Z Color’s technologist and maintenance staff. After practical training for operators, the systems were immediately put into production mode. The installation complied with pharmaceutical standards and included approved documentation (IQ/OQ) and training certificates for all operators.

“The installation can definitely be described as exemplary,” confirms Zecer-Gołaszewska.

COMPANY-WIDE BENEFITS What began in 2019 as a targeted application for pharmaceutical labels has become a company-wide standard.

“Over time, we realised that EyeC’s solutions also offer us enormous advantages in other areas,” adds Zecer-Gołaszewska.

Today, in addition to the EyeC Proofiler, five EyeC ProofRunner systems are an integral part of production, operating virtually around the clock. The most recent installation took place in 2025. In accordance with internal standards, the systems must always be running when the printing machines are in operation.

Monitored and controlled by printing house employees, shift managers and technologists, the systems check the entire printing process during all production shifts.

The collaboration with EyeC has been a decisive breakthrough for A-Z Color in label production SUPPLIER BECOMES A STRATEGIC PARTNER The collaboration with EyeC has been a decisive breakthrough for A-Z Color in label production. Over several years and with thousands of production orders, only one defective printing template was produced.

Subsequent to a joint analysis with the manufacturer, insufficient colour contrast was identified as the cause. Thereafter, system parameters were adjusted and a preventive action protocol implemented.

The error rate has been zero since then.

This has fundamentally changed quality assurance from random sampling to 100% automated inspection on the production line. Deviations immediately lead to production stoppages, documentation thereof and targeted corrections are enabled. The biggest advantage – everything is fully GMP-compliant and audit-proof.

For customers, especially in the pharmaceutical industry, this means no

product recalls, complete documentation, audit security and predictable delivery dates. At the same time, waste and reprints have been significantly reduced, leading to real resource savings and significantly higher production efficiency.

The investment has also paid off in business terms. A-Z Color has transformed itself from a standard supplier to a preferred supplier for leading pharmaceutical companies. Top audit ratings, extended framework agreements, a growing number of orders, active recommendations and a reduced number of incoming inspections are proof of this increased trust.

“In an industry where a single missing point can mean the difference between success and failure, EyeC is our life insurance,” Zecer-Gołaszewska emphasises.

During audits and customer meetings, the manufacturer now uses automatic quality control as a clear differentiator.

QUALITY CONTROL AS A FUTURE STRATEGY With the implementation of EyeC systems, A-Z Color has set a new quality standard in label printing. It guarantees error-free results, maximum process reliability and absolute design fidelity.

Building on its successes to date, the company is now working on development towards predictive quality control through data-driven analysis and continuous process improvement. The partnership with EyeC is an indispensable foundation for these activities. “Based on our consistently positive experience, we have no hesitation in recommending EyeC as a proven and reliable partner,” concludes Katarzyna Zecer-Gołaszewska. •

A-Z COLOR ENJOYS ALL THESE BENEFITS: • Six EyeC systems operating 24/7 (5x EyeC ProofRunner Web, 1x EyeC Proofiler) • Error rate of almost 0% for many years • Installation in record time (one day for three systems) • Measurable cost savings through reduced waste • Strengthened market position thanks to verifiable quality • Measurable increase in customer satisfaction A-Z Color is a leading specialist in self-adhesive labels, heat-shrink labels and flexible packaging

A-Z Color – azcolor.com.pl EyeC – www.eyec.com WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // JANUARY 2026

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ASSOCIATION NEWS/COSCHEM

Coschem elevates year-end networking with sensory innovation

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ year-end celebrations across South Africa showcased its commitment to creative networking and community building. From a rooftop fragrancefood pairing experience in Joburg to oceanside gatherings in Cape Town and KZN, each event demonstrated innovative approaches to industry connection and collaboration.

C image: gettyimages

oschem’s year-end celebration in Joburg delivered a refreshing departure from previous yearend luncheons. Set at Oko Restaurant, a stunning rooftop venue at Blueberry Hill Hotel, the fragrance-food pairing experience showcased six leading suppliers – Millchem, dsm-firmenich, Natchem, Carst & Walker, Mane and Moellhausen – each presenting unique scent experiences alongside carefully curated canapés.

Bite-sized focaccia, lemon meringue slices, mini teriyaki kebabs and wedges of passion fruit cheesecake were paired with

Cape Town year-end event

KwaZulu-Natal year-end event

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select scents to demonstrate fragrance applications in unexpected ways. The relaxed, interactive format encouraged meaningful connections while exploring sensory combinations. With a poolside networking space, rooftop fresh air access and ‘cocktail chic’ dress code, the year-end event balanced business networking with a creative industry showcase.

VIBRANT COASTAL CELEBRATIONS Coschem’s national chapters also closed off 2025 with lively year-end gatherings.

The Cape Town chapter celebrated at the stunning Grand Café & Beach, where

members enjoyed delicious canapés while taking in sweeping views of the Atlantic Ocean.

In KZN, the chapter met at the Sunkist Restaurant and were treated to an impressive family style feast that encouraged warm conversation and connection.

Feedback from all the year-end events was overwhelmingly positive, reflecting the strong sense of community and enthusiasm within the chapters as Coschem looks forward to the exciting prospects of 2026. • Coschem – www.coschem.co.za

Gauteng year-end event

A full-service experience

Review In an industry where every millimetre of package space tells a story, VR Print has carved out a reputation as the label technology partner that transforms complex packaging challenges into competitive advantages.

Buckle Packaging is driving sustainable growth across Southern Africa. The company continues to lead the charge in sustainable packaging innovation, helping manufacturers across diverse industries transition to eco-friendly solutions without compromising on performance.

In a market where packaging choices can make or break product success, Bright Packaging & Raw Materials has established itself as the go-to partner for companies seeking quality, flexibility, and sustainability without compromise.

Read more in the latest issue of Packaging Review Out Now! www.b2bcentral.co.za/digital-issues/packaging-review-issue-5-2025/

ADVERTISING

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2025/2026