August 2026 Volume 53 | Number 8
53
years
www.pharmacos.co.za R69,95 Incl VAT
BIOTECHNOLOGY
Engineering the future of beauty A new era in scalp health innovation
Deliver better medicines with Colorcon
Coschem KZN Supplier Day highlights
FT-NIR, FT-IR & RAMAN SPECTROSCOPY
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Integrity in every result. Discover Bruker‘s analytical solutions for pharmaceutical quality control and compliant laboratory workflows: bruker.com/pharma
infoza.bopt@bruker.com Innovation with Integrity
Contents www.pharmacos.co.za
6 News
MSD Aspen HIV PrEP partnership to expand LMIC access Brenntag appointed BASF’s distribution partner for cleaning solutions Precise monitoring of temperature and humidity with Testo
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18 Regulations & Testing
Stay ahead of regulatory changes with CTFA
10 Packaging
Percy Sibanda highlights a regulatory strategy for successful market access in Africa
Explore the latest plastics consumption and recycling figures How you can get involved in Clean-Up & Recycle SA Week
24 Pharma Focus/Coatings & Equipment Colorcon reinforces full-spectrum support for SA pharma
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26 Beauty Biotech
Collagen reimagined through biotechnology Intensilk: A winter investment for summer beauty
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14 Hair Care
Biobased conditioning polymer delivers proven performance SCALPHIX OX-GUARD defends the scalp from ‘inflammaging’
Waspilk brings biomimicry into beauty innovation Greentech develops greener ingredients for better beauty
34 Association News
Industry comes together at Coschem’s KZN Supplier Day
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2026
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image: gettyimages
FROM THE EDITOR
The team EDITORIAL EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@media24.com LAYOUT & DESIGN: Andipha Nkoloti PRODUCTION CONTROLLER: Mandy Ackerman COVER IMAGE: gettyimages CONTRIBUTORS: Dershana Jackison, Glen Malherbe, Percy
Explore what’s next
I
Sibanda, Petra Biehl, Dr Katja Skrabiana, Antoine Gavignaud, Magalie Cabannes, Jean-Yves Berthon
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nnovation is at its best when science, sustainability and practical application come together, and this month's issue of P&C Review showcases the convergence. From biotechnology reshaping beauty to advances in pharmaceutical manufacturing and packaging, our August edition is filled with insights to help you stay ahead of industry trends. Our cover feature explores the exciting world of biotechnology in beauty and cosmetics, where nature and science are working together to create the next generation of high-performance ingredients. Discover how biotechnology is transforming collagen, the potential of biomimicry through Waspilk, an innovative silk-inspired peptide, and greener ingredient development that is redefining modern beauty formulations. Packaging also takes centre stage with two timely articles. We unpack South Africa’s latest plastics recycling figures and examine what they reveal about the country's circular economy. We also
highlight how businesses and individuals can make a meaningful impact during Clean-Up & Recycle SA Week, coming up in September. For our pharmaceutical readers, don't miss our feature on Colorcon, which highlights the company’s continued commitment to supporting South African manufacturers with coating expertise and technical solutions. Whether your focus is formulation, manufacturing, packaging or regulation, we hope this edition sparks fresh ideas and valuable conversations. Happy reading!
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AUGUST 2026 // W W W.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
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Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by Novus Print, Cape Town Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
THE MEISTER PERFUMERS
NEWS
BASF expands sustainable emollient production in Düsseldorf
Once-monthly HIV PrEP MSD Aspen partnership to expand LMIC access
BASF recently expanded its sustainable emollient production capabilities with the inauguration of a new stateof-the-art plant in Düsseldorf, Germany. The new facility is dedicated to producing specialty emollients for skin care and sun protection products, addressing the growing demand in European and global cosmetics markets. The investment, valued in the mid double-digit millioneuro range, is the largest in Düsseldorf in the past decade. It highlights BASF’s commitment to sustainability and innovation, enabling the development of eco-friendly personal-care formulations, including emollients derived from renewable raw materials. Emollients bind and help retain skin moisture while improving the sensory profile of personal care products. Key highlights of the expansion include: • Sustainability: The new plant supports the production of sustainable emollients, meeting the increasing consumer demand for environmentally friendly products. • Market growth: BASF strengthens its position in the European and global cosmetics markets with this strategic investment. • Enhanced competitiveness: The expansion boosts the competitiveness of the Düsseldorf site, ensuring its relevance in the evolving personal care industry. The plant was completed in just two years, reflecting BASF’s efficiency and dedication to innovation. This expansion is part of the company’s broader strategy to meet the rising demand for high-quality, sustainable personal care ingredients. BASF’s Care Chemicals division is a leading supplier of surfactants, emollients, polymers, actives and UV filters. The division is committed to providing innovative solutions for the personal care, home care, and industrial cleaning industries.
MSD includes Aspen, a South African manufacturer, in early access plans for its investigational monthly HIV prevention pill under a voluntary licensing strategy covering 129 low- and middle-income countries (LMIC). MSD, known as Merck in the United States and Canada, announced early plans to support rapid and sustainable access to alimatravir. This is an investigational once-monthly oral pre-exposure prophylaxis medicine being evaluated for the prevention of HIV-1.
From left to right: Helya Masoud (site manager, BASF Düsseldorf), Sven Crone (SVP global operations, BASF Care Chemicals), Paul Höller (State Secretary, North Rhine-Westphalia Ministry of Economic Affairs and Climate Protection), Christian Zaum (Head of Economic Affairs, City of Düsseldorf), Peter Weinert (VP business management, BASF Personal Care EMEA), and Agus Ciputra (head of the BASF Personal Care Business Unit) jointly inaugurate the new production facility (Image: BASF)
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AUGUST 2026 // W W W.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
People across Africa need more options to prevent HIV The announcement comes as an estimated 1.2 million people acquired HIV globally in 2025 – approximately 3 300 people each day. Only 3.5 million people were using oral PrEP in 2023, against a global target of 20 million by 2030. Subject to successful clinical trials and regulatory approval, MSD’s strategy includes a royalty-free, non-exclusive voluntary licensing agreement with Aspen Pharmacare. Aspen is among seven generic manufacturers selected to support future supply across 129 low- and middle-income countries. “Recognising the urgent, unmet needs in HIV prevention, we are acting early to enable rapid, broad and sustainable access to alimatravir, an investigational once-monthly oral PrEP option, in lowand middle-income countries,” said Robert Davis, chairman and chief executive officer of Merck. Three of the manufacturers are based in subSaharan Africa, marking the first time manufacturers in the region have been included in the initial voluntary licensing process for an HIV prevention medicine. “People across Africa need more options to prevent HIV. A once-monthly pill could provide a different choice for people in how to protect themselves, subject to successful trials and regulatory approval,” said Jean Kaseya, directorgeneral of the Africa Centres for Disease Control and Prevention. “We welcome this decision to engage African manufacturers early.” South Africa is also participating in EXPrESSIVE-10, an ongoing Phase 3 trial evaluating alimatravir among adolescent girls and young women in South Africa, Kenya and Uganda. Alimatravir remains investigational and has not been approved for use. MSD has committed to supporting access for trial participants after the studies conclude, subject to regulatory approval.
NEWS
BASF partners with Brenntag on distribution of cleaning solutions Brenntag, a global market leader in chemicals and ingredients distribution, has announced a new distribution agreement with BASF. The distribution agreement is part of the expansion of the portfolio with a wide range of innovative cleaning products for Brenntag Specialties Home Care, I&I sectors in South Africa, Nigeria, Ghana, Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania and Ethiopia. Brenntag has deep expertise in the Home Care, I&I industry and brings exceptional market reach and a strong supply chain network. Together, Brenntag and BASF are
creating new opportunities to deliver high performance solutions to a broader range of customers across the Home Care and I&I Cleaning industry. This collaboration expands Brenntag Specialties’ portfolio with BASF’s advanced surfactant systems and laundry-care ingredients. These innovative solutions offer: • Enhanced grease and stain removal for superior cleaning performance. • Improved formulation stability to ensure consistent product quality. • Fabric and colour protection to extend the life of textiles.
• Support for lower-temperature washing, reducing energy consumption. • Alignment with sustainability goals, promoting environmentally friendly practices. Kreason Gopalan, regional commercial director Sub-Saharan Africa, Brenntag Specialties Beauty & Care comments: “We are proud to partner with BASF to deliver high-performance, innovative cleaning solutions across SubSaharan Africa. Their advanced portfolio enables our customers to develop high-performing cleaning formulations in HI&I, while aligning with growing sustainability expectations. This collaboration strengthens our commitment to bringing effective, reliable, and future-ready solutions to the markets we serve.” Marton Nick, head of regional sales home care and I&I cleaning – CEE – Africa – Middle East BASF: “Sub-Saharan Africa is an important growth region for the Home Care and I&I industry. Through our partnership with Brenntag, we are expanding customer access to BASF’s innovative solutions while strengthening local support and technical expertise across key markets in the region.”
Precise monitoring of temperature and humidity For anyone who needs to document temperature and humidity readings in storage areas, cold rooms or during transport, the testo 174 data loggers provide a reliable solution. The data loggers are available in four models with a compact design, and either USB-C or Bluetooth connectivity ensure flexible use. The testo 174 data loggers are designed for continuous monitoring of temperature- and humidity-sensitive goods in storage, refrigeration and transport applications, while enabling indoor climate monitoring. Ease of use simplifies day-to-day operations, and automatic data backup ensures complete and traceable documentation.
All four models feature an easyto-read display and are HACCPcompliant. They can store up to 16 000 readings and allow freely selectable measurement intervals between one minute and 24 hours. The testo 174 T and T BT models measure temperatures from -30°C to +70°C and meet the requirements of EN 12830. The testo 174 H and H BT versions additionally measure relative humidity and temperatures from -20°C to +70°C. Depending on the model, data is either read out via USB-C and PC software or transmitted via Bluetooth to the testo Smart App.
Whether in a warehouse or a laboratory, the testo 174 data loggers ensure reliable and comprehensive documentation of temperature and humidity readings
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2026
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OCTOBER
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PACKAGING
Plastics recycling grows despite manufacturing slowdown The latest Plastics SA industry figures reveal recycling continues to outperform a struggling economy, while exposing serious weaknesses in South Africa's waste management system. Formal collectors, MRFs and buy-back centres are by far the largest single source of recyclable material for South African re-processors
image: gettyimages
S
outh Africa’s plastics recycling industry continued its remarkable growth trajectory during 2025, even as the country’s manufacturing sector contracted and ongoing weaknesses in the national waste management system threatened to undermine further progress. Released by Plastics SA, the latest plastics consumption and recycling figures for the year ending December 2025 show that although domestic virgin polymer consumption declined by 2.8%, plastics recycling continued its upward trajectory. Total plastics recycled increased by 3% to 485 000t. The findings of the report reinforce South Africa’s position as one of the world's leading performers in mechanical plastics recycling, while highlighting the urgent need to strengthen waste collection and support local manufacturing.
Over the past 10 years, domestic consumption of recyclate has grown by an impressive 62% 10
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According to Anton Hanekom, executive director of Plastics SA, the figures demonstrate both the resilience of the recycling industry and the vulnerability of South Africa's broader manufacturing sector. “Recycling works,” he comments. “The latest figures show growth despite very difficult trading and operational conditions. Over the past 10 years, domestic consumption of recyclate has grown by an impressive 62%. This is a remarkable achievement and proof that the industry continues to invest, innovate and build a circular economy even under extremely challenging conditions.”
MANUFACTURING UNDER PRESSURE While recycling continued to grow, the report paints a less encouraging picture for South Africa’s manufacturing sector. Total domestic plastics consumption declined from 2.114 million tonnes in 2024 to 2.063 million tonnes in 2025, with virgin polymer consumption falling from 1.656 million tonnes to 1.610 million tonnes. The decline reflects ongoing pressure on local manufacturers from increasing imports, weak economic growth, rising operational costs and electricity constraints.
The contraction was evident across several major polymers, with PELD/LLD, PVC, polystyrene (PS) and polyurethane (PUR) all recording lower consumption during 2025. In contrast, polypropylene (PP), PET and HDPE remained relatively resilient, supported by continued demand in packaging and selected industrial applications. Hanekom says the decline in virgin polymer demand reflects broader economic realities rather than reduced consumer demand for plastics. “A decline in virgin polymer consumption is rarely good news. It tells us local manufacturers are producing less, investing less and facing increasing pressure. The plastics industry remains one of South Africa’s largest manufacturing sectors, so when manufacturing slows, our entire economy feels it,” he explains.
A DECADE OF CIRCULAR ECONOMY PROGRESS Despite weaker manufacturing output, the country's circular economy continued to strengthen. The report shows: • 485 000t of plastics were mechanically recycled during 2025. • South Africa achieved an overall plastics output recycling rate of 30.1%,
PACKAGING
DID YOU KNOW? The 2025 Plastics Industry Data Report represents the entire South African plastics industry, including packaging, building and construction, agriculture, mining, automotive, consumer goods and all other plastics applications. Sector-specific analysis will be released later this year.
up from 28.4% in 2024. • Circular plastics content in new products increased from 16% 10 years ago to 22% today. • Domestic recyclate consumption reached 453 000t, representing a 62% increase over the past decade. Very few sectors within South Africa’s manufacturing economy can point to sustained growth over the past decade. Plastics recycling is one of them. PET continued its impressive growth, reaching 108 222t recycled, while HDPE, polypropylene and polystyrene also recorded increases. Although PVC recycling declined slightly during 2025, it remains an important component of South Africa'’ recycling landscape.
THE CRUCIAL ROLE OF FORMAL COLLECTORS AND MRFS One of the strongest messages emerging from the 2025 report is the increasingly critical role played by formal collectors, buy-back centres (BBCs) and material recovery facilities (MRFs). “Formal collectors and MRFs are the gatekeepers of South Africa’s recycling system. They ultimately determine what gets recycled and what ends up in landfill. For that reason, they deserve a permanent seat at the table whenever South Africa’s waste management policies and recycling strategies are developed. We regard
them as the missing link in many of these discussions and would welcome their greater participation in helping shape practical, workable solutions for South Africa’s recycling future,” says Hanekom. According to the report, formal collectors, MRFs and buy-back centres supplied 70% (nearly 340 000t) of recyclables into the recycling system during 2025. This makes them by far the largest single source of recyclable material for South African re-processors. These facilities perform the essential function of receiving, sorting, grading and preparing recyclable materials before they are sold to recyclers. Without efficient sorting and quality control, valuable plastics become contaminated and ultimately end up in landfill instead of being recycled.
RECYCLING CREATES LIVELIHOODS
IMPACTS OF A BROKEN WASTE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
industries on the African continent, but he warns that continued success depends on growing demand for recycled-content products. “It is important to protect what we have. Consumers, businesses and government all have a role to play by supporting locally manufactured products that contain recycled plastic. Every purchase helps create demand for recyclate, supports local manufacturing, protects jobs and strengthens South Africa’s circular economy. Buying products manufactured in South Africa using recycled plastic helps our manufacturers and recyclers remain competitive.” While the industry has demonstrated what is possible, Hanekom adds that continued growth will depend on fixing municipal waste collection, strengthening sorting infrastructure, supporting formal collectors and MRFs, expanding local manufacturing and creating stronger markets for recycled materials. “The latest figures prove that South Africa’s plastics recycling industry continues to move in the right direction. The challenge now lies in ensuring that our waste management system, our municipalities and our procurement policies work just as hard as our recyclers do,” he concludes. •
The report also notes that the South African recycling value chain remains long and inefficient, with significant losses occurring through contamination and poor sorting practices. Large volumes of recyclable material are still being discarded because waste is either not separated at source or arrives at sorting facilities contaminated. Hanekom adds: “South Africa still has a broken waste management system. Our recyclers cannot recycle material they never receive. Everyday thousands of tonnes of valuable recyclable material are lost unnecessarily to landfill because collection systems fail, waste is contaminated or sorting infrastructure is inadequate. We have demonstrated that recycling works. Now we need a waste management system that works just as well.”
Beyond its environmental benefits, plastics recycling continues to make a significant socio-economic contribution. The 2025 report estimates that plastics recycling supported an estimated 111 000 incomegenerating opportunities throughout South Africa’s recycling value chain, including employment within recycling factories as well as collection, transport, sorting and associated supply chain activities. Of these, nearly 8 000 people are employed directly in formal recycling operations, highlighting the industr’s important contribution to employment, skills development and inclusive economic growth.
PROTECT LOCAL RECYCLING BY BUYING LOCAL Hanekom believes South Africa has built one of the strongest plastics recycling
The Executive Summary is available from www.plasticsinfo.co.za. The full 2025 Plastics Industry Data Report will be made available for purchase later this year. Markets for secondary materials follow similar trends to those for virgin material. In 2025, larger volumes were exported as virgin polymer was trading at very low values and competed with recyclate in many of the traditional markets. Flexible packaging, specifically refuse- and carrier bags, remained a popular market. Increased capacity for rPET also assisted to grow the rigid packaging sector
Plastics SA – www.plasticsinfo.co.za WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2026
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PACKAGING
Working together for a cleaner SA Every piece of litter picked up, every recyclable separated and every person who chooses not to litter is proof that meaningful environmental change starts with individual action. This is the message behind Clean-Up & Recycle SA Week 2026, taking place from 14 to 20 September 2026. During this time South Africans are encouraged to roll up their sleeves and take pride in cleaning up the areas where they live, work, learn and play.
T
his year's campaign carries the inspiring theme, ‘It Starts With Me’, reminding every citizen that creating a cleaner South Africa begins with individual action. It also marks the 30th anniversary of Plastics SA coordinating the national environmental awareness campaign, which has mobilised hundreds of thousands of volunteers to remove litter from neighbourhoods, rivers, beaches and public spaces while promoting recycling and responsible waste management.
Beach clean-up
Today, the initiative has grown into one of South Africa’s largest collaborative environmental campaigns, supported by local Producer Responsibility Organisations (PROs): Petco, Polyco, The Southern African Vinyls Association (SAVA), EWASA, MetPac-SA, Fibre Circle and The Glass Recycling Company. The PROs work together with national and provincial government departments, municipalities, environmental NGOs, schools, community organisations and thousands of volunteers across the country. This broad partnership demonstrates that keeping South Africa clean is a shared responsibility that transcends industries, organisations and communities.
NATIONAL CAMPAIGN INSPIRES ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY
image: gettyimages
Douw Steyn and volunteers with Deputy Minister Narend Singh at Cutting Beach, KZN
Keeping South Africa clean is a shared responsibility 12
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Throughout September, clean-up activities will be taking place nationwide, with Clean-Up & Recycle SA Week being the main focus. To support these efforts, Plastics SA will distribute 500 000 of its iconic bright yellow clean-up bags to coordinators, supporting thousands of volunteers taking part in organised clean-up activities. Douw Steyn, sustainability director at Plastics SA, explains: “The first Clean-Up & Recycle SA Week took place in 1996 and was built on the simple belief that ordinary South Africans could make an extraordinary difference simply by taking responsibility for the environment around them. Three decades later, this vision is stronger than ever.” The local plastics industry continues to encourage South Africans to become active environmental custodians by participating in clean-up initiatives that remove litter before it reaches rivers, streams, beaches and ultimately the ocean. Beyond improving the appearance of neighbourhoods, these clean-ups help protect wildlife, prevent blocked stormwater systems, reduce pollution and promote the responsible use and recycling of valuable materials. Litter that is left unmanaged can be carried by wind and rain into stormwater systems, rivers and
CLEAN-UP & RECYCLE SA WEEK 2026 KEY DATES • 16 September – National River Clean-Up Day • 18 September – National Recycling Day South Africa • 19 September – International Coastal Clean-Up Day • 20 September – World Clean-Up Day
eventually the ocean, making community cleanups one of the simplest yet most effective ways of preventing environmental pollution at source. Plastics SA, in partnership with the Sustainable Seas Trust (SST), is South Africa's national coordinator for the International Coastal Clean-Up. This is the world's largest volunteer effort for ocean health. “Cleaning up the environment is only the beginning. Every clean-up starts conversations about recycling, responsible consumption and preventing litter in the first place. Real environmental change starts with individual choices, and those choices spread from one person to another,” adds Steyn.
JOIN THE MOVEMENT Campaign organisers are encouraging schools, businesses, community organisations, municipalities, environmental groups and individuals to participate in an existing cleanup or organise one of their own. Information about registered clean-up coordinators across South Africa is available online – visit www.cleanupandrecycle.co.za and www.plasticsinfo.co.za. Members of the public are encouraged to contact the coordinator nearest to them to join an existing clean-up, or to register and organise one of their own. Whether you can spare an hour or an entire day, your contribution matters. Because a cleaner South Africa doesn't begin with someone else. It starts with me. It starts with you. It starts with all of us. • Plastics SA – www.plasticsinfo.co.za
The future feels softer!
Bio-based conditioning technology for high-performance hair and body care formulations.
Today’s consumers expect personal care products that deliver on both performance and responsibility. Advanced conditioning biopolymer technology helps formulators create rinse-off hair and body care products with improved sensory appeal, enhanced softness, better manageability and a smoother after-feel, while supporting more sustainable formulation choices. Through technical expertise, application knowledge and hands-on formulation support, IMCD helps brands translate these ingredient innovations into market-ready personal care solutions
that meet evolving consumer expectations. www.imcdsa.co.za
www.imc
HAIR CARE
Biobased conditioning polymer delivers proven performance What does it take to build a conditioning polymer that performs across hair types, behaves beautifully in transparent low-viscosity formulas and treads lightly on the planet? This article unpacks the science, clinical test data and the environmental credentials behind AURIST™ AGC.
T
he hair care landscape continues to shift. Category insights show consumers are prioritising scalp-first care, barrier support and preventative maintenance.1 Performance is also key – consumers want products that deliver results with substantiated claims.1 In addition, sustainability has moved from a nice-to-have to a baseline expectation, while science-backed, sustainable ingredients are driving purchasing decisions. 2,3 In line with these trends, IMCD South Africa is proud to present AURIST™ AGC (INCI: Water and Alpha-Glucan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Propylene Glycol) to the South African market. This award-winning conditioning polymer is developed by IFF with the promise of proven efficacy and environmental responsibility.
A CLOSER LOOK AT THE TECHNOLOGY AURIST™ AGC was the first personal care ingredient enabled by IFF’s proprietary Designed Enzymatic Biopolymer (DEB) technology. DEB is a biocatalysis process that gives rise to a novel class of alpha-glucan polysaccharides through the enzymatic polymerisation of glucose obtained from sustainable feedstock such as sugar beet or sustainably farmed sugar cane. AURIST™ AGC is a biobased, biodegradable conditioning polymer designed for modern hair care formulations. Conditioning polymers are an important class of ingredients in personal care applications, contributing significantly to the texture and sensory properties of hair and skincare products.3
HAIR CARE PERFORMANCE Efficacy is a primary driving factor for ingredient interest in hair care. 4 Statistically significant test results are essential for substantiating performance. AURIST™ AGC has been proven to significantly improve wet and dry combability in shampoo formulations, when compared with incumbent
AURIST™ AGC has superior performance attributes as a conditioning polymer 14
AUGUST 2026 // W W W.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
HAIR CARE
Ingredient
Base
Formula 1
Formula 2
Glucan in AURIST™ AGC
0
0.2
0.4
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
2.00
2.00
2.00
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
12.0
12.0
12.0
Phenoxyethanol
0.80
0.80
0.80
Sodium Chloride
1.50
1.50
1.50
0.030
0.030
0.030
0.10
0.10
0.10
Up to 100
Up to 100
Up to 100
Citric Acid Anhydrous (to adjust pH 5.5) Disodium EDTA Water
technology. Its conditioning properties have been investigated in several model shampoos formulated featured in table 1. To validate the efficacy of AURIST™ AGC, tests followed a standardised protocol (Instron 23-2S, virgin Caucasian and kinky hair tresses, pre-cleaned with 10% SLES, dried at 55 ± 5% RH and 22 ± 2°C) with analysis by student’s t-test and one-way ANOVA with Tukey’s post-test (95% CI). The results showed AURIST™ AGC delivers significant benefits in improving the wet and dry combability of Caucasian hair when used at as little as 0.2% in a formulation (see table 1). When the same model shampoo formulation was used on kinky hair, significant wet combability results were achieved with 0.2% AURIST™ AGC, while 0.4% of the conditioning polymer is required for dry combing. From these studies, it was concluded that AURIST™ AGC has superior performance attributes as a conditioning polymer.
MODE OF ACTION AND FORMULATION BENEFITS Deposition is one of the mode of actions required for cationic polymers to work effectively on hair. The Direct Red 80 deposition assay was used to prove that AURIST™ AGC is deposited on hair. This anionic dye binds to cationic sites, making it suitable for detecting the deposition of cationic polymers. AURIST™ AGC presents several formulation and processing benefits when compared to other well-established conditioning polymers. Unlike most incumbent cationic polymers, AURIST™ AGC has been demonstrated not to form coacervates. This characteristic contributes to the ease of formulation, transparency and low viscosity of the products developed with AURIST™ AGC.
The difference in mode of action can also aid in novel formulation design. Because it does not contribute to increasing the viscosity of the system, formulations developed with AURIST™ AGC are suitable for foaming pump packages.
ENVIRONMENTAL PROFILE Biodegradability is an intrinsic feature of polysaccharide chemistry. The ASTM and ISO standards make polysaccharides the gold standard for biodegradation in all environments including marine, soil, industrial and soil composting.5 AURIST™ AGC is a biobased, readily biodegradable highly purified mix of alpha glucan hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (CatG1), water and plant-derived propylene glycol. It has been shown to be non-hazardous to aquatic environments. CatG1 is derived from the enzymatic polymerisation of sustainably sourced glucose. According to IFF, being renewable is not necessarily enough to be sustainable. For this reason, the ingredient manufacturer performed a cradle-to-gate life cycle assessment (LCA) to quantify the environmental impact of producing CatG1. The polyglucan backbone of the LCA model stems from peer-reviewed LCA for enzymatic polysaccharide production. The ease-of-use, positive environmental profile, and outstanding conditioning and sensorial properties make AURIST™ AGC the new go-to biopolymer to formulate performance-oriented products that meet the discerning consumer’s demands. • This article is adapted from: Takenori, K. and Pericu, P. (2023). Unlocking Sustainable Innovation: How Conditioning Biopolymer AURIST AGC Transforms Hair Care and Body Wash Applications. SOFW Journal, 149(12), 18–23.
REFERENCES: 1. Mintel, 2023 Beauty & Personal Care Trends: APAC spotlight 2. Mintel, 2020 Shine with science and simplicity in Indonesia 3. Savary et al (2012) Impact of Polymers on texture properties of cosmetic emulsions: A methodological approach. Journal of Sensory Studies 27 (2012) 392-402 4. Mintel, 2023 Shampoo, Conditioner and Hairstyling Products – US 5. Natnael Behabtu and Slavko Kralj. Enzymatic Polymerization Routes to Synthetic–Natural Materials: A Review. ACS Sustainable Chemistry & Engineering 2020 8 (27), 9947-9954
IFF – www.iff.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdsa.co.za WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2026
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Table 1: Model shampoo formulation used for AURIST™ AGC hair combability tests
HAIR CARE
A new era in scalp health innovation SCALPHIX TM OX-GUARD from Vantage Personal Care brings ‘inflammaging’ defense to the scalp. This next generation ingredient complex for everyday hair care is clinically proven to increase hair density and strengthen the scalp.
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calp care has shifted from niche to a necessity, driven by scalp wellness, hair longevity and hair pre-juvenation trends. Around 60% of women and 40% of men report sensitive scalps, according to Eucerin data. Spate reports that ‘Ozempic hair’ searches are up 91% globally; ‘head spa’ searches have
in anhydrous systems, emulsions and cleansing products. The jojoba esters in the complex help to deepen the penetration of the active ingredients. For example: • resveratrol from Japanese knotweed supports the barrier • purple gromwell provides a soothing effect
increased 124% (as per Instagram); and 31% of US adults with textured hair experience thinning or loss, according to Mintel. Active sebum, dense follicles, unique microbiota, dense nerve tissues and blood vessels, as well as faster cell turnover make the scalp distinctively vulnerable. When external aggressors cause microinflammations and dryness erodes barrier function, targeted hair and scalp care becomes essential.
• licorice root and green tea bring anti-inflammatory and antioxidant power • microalgae with astaxanthin adds a powerful carotenoid.
images: gettyimages
SCALP CARE AT A CELLULAR LEVEL SCALPHIX TM OX-GUARD (INCI: Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (and) Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract (and) Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract (and) Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (and) Resveratrol), is a lipophilic active that addresses the higher sebum production which occurs in the scalp. It delivers permeation and bioavailability through a complex of botanical actives, protecting the scalp from ‘inflammaging’ caused by oxidative stress. UV and visible energy, chemicals, pollution and microbes generate reactive oxygen species (ROS), triggering caspase-1, which is a potent protease that drives inflammation in the scalp. When left unchecked, follicles can weaken leading to brittle hair, weaker bulb anchorage, damage to pre-emergent fibres, premature ageing, increased scalp sensitivity, hair loss, reduced shine, and dryness and flaking of the scalp. Oil-soluble and red in appearance, SCALPHIX TM OX-GUARD works from 1.5%
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EVIDENCE SPEAKS FOR ITSELF Results of a 90-day study on SCALPHIX TM OX-GUARD at 1.5% in a scalp serum showed that hair density increased by 13.2% and thickness by 6.5%. TEWL decreased by 12.6%, which was 15 times better than the placebo and 100% of volunteers showed reduced sensitivity. With a pH window of 4.0 to 6.5, no known incompatibilities, a two-year shelf life and ISO 16128 natural origin of 100% (nonGMO, 100% vegan, INCI and China IECIC listed), SCALPHIX TM OX-GUARD slots easily into existing ranges. Suitable applications include scalp detox drops, a hair and scalp cleansing oil, shampoo, scalp serum and UV defense hair care.
60% of women and 40% of men report sensitive scalps MAKING SCALP CARE COUNT With the market placing greater emphasis on the role of the scalp in maintaining hair health, consumers are increasingly embracing at-home and professional scalp care products. This is driving innovation and premiumisation across the category. For South African formulators and brand owners, SCALPHIX TM OX-GUARD comes at an opportune time. Consumers are no longer asking whether scalp care matters – they are asking for products that prove it. Backed by clinical evidence demonstrating improvements in hair density, scalp barrier function and inflammation control, this single oil-soluble ingredient complex enables brands to move beyond trenddriven claims and deliver scientifically substantiated performance. • Vantage Personal Care — www.vantagegrp.com
SCALPHIX™ OX-GUARD Pro-density scalp shield
1.5% in scalp serum
The next generation scalp active ingredient clinically proven to increase hair density and strengthen the skin barrier for everyday use.
Baseline
Day 60
Day 90
SCALPHIX™ OX-GUARD increased hair density by up to 13.2%* after 90 days M: johrinda.nel@vantagegrp.com
vantagegrp.com
REGULATIONS & TESTING
Stay ahead of regulatory changes with CTFA Dershana Jackison, CTFA’s technical & regulatory affairs manager and Glen Malherbe, CTFA’s head: policy & regulatory affairs, explain how the association helps members navigate regulatory change in South Africa's cosmetics industry.
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n a self-regulatory environment, the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA) plays a pivotal role in ensuring that the industry remains informed of international, continental and national regulatory developments. This proactive approach enables meaningful engagement with industry experts to assess, adapt to, or adopt regulatory changes while balancing consumer safety with the economic sustainability of the local cosmetics industry. South Africa's current cosmetic regulatory framework comprises regulations, guidelines, codes of practice, standards and compulsory specifications. Over recent years, several ingredient restrictions and prohibitions introduced by the European Commission have had a
These developments have implications for the European cosmetics sector and, by extension, the South African industry. Locally, the Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment is responsible for chemicals and waste management regulation, amongst other mandates, such as access to and benefit sharing of indigenous natural resources with communities. When policy decisions are translated to regulatory change and implementation, impacts can also be felt on cosmetic products, including their competitiveness. It is therefore essential for businesses to adopt a comprehensive, 360-degree approach to regulatory compliance, in real-time as it is rapidly evolving, for example to include sustainability drivers, international pressures and agreements and emerging risk.
owners often need to redesign product labels to reflect revised ingredient declarations. Collectively, these activities represent significant additional costs, which may ultimately be passed on to consumers. While the industry awaits the finalisation of South Africa's draft cosmetic regulations by the National Department of Health (NDoH), the CTFA Cosmetic Compendium serves as a comprehensive reference guide for industry compliance. Regular regulatory notifications, updates and alerts published on the CTFA website further assist members in staying informed of emerging requirements.
significant impact on the South African cosmetics industry, affecting exporters, importers and local manufacturers alike. In particular, the classification of ingredients as carcinogenic, mutagenic or reprotoxic (CMR) substances by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has resulted in numerous amendments to the annexes of the European Commission's Cosmetic Products Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. These changes have, in turn, necessitated corresponding updates to the annexes of the CTFA Cosmetic Compendium. In addition, the European Chemicals Agency's REACH Regulation continues to evolve as new safety data emerges.
CTFA continuously monitors these developments, informs industry of regulatory changes and provides guidance to member companies on compliance requirements.
South African Bureau of Standards (SABS) ensures that the industry is represented objectively on the relevant technical committees responsible for developing and revising national standards. This collaborative approach ensures that standards reflect local testing capabilities, international best practice and practical industry needs. It also facilitates the free movement of cosmetic products within the region and across the African continent while ensuring that locally manufactured products meet internationally recognised standards. SABS standards cover a broad range of cosmetics-related topics, including product labelling, ingredient nomenclature, sun care,
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REGULATIONS AFFECT ALL INDUSTRY PLAYERS The evolving regulatory landscape has far-reaching consequences across the cosmetics value chain. Raw material suppliers must rapidly research and develop safer alternative ingredients, while cosmetic chemists are required to reformulate products to replace restricted or prohibited substances. Manufacturers must implement production changes and brand
OBJECTIVE REPRESENTATION AT VARIOUS LEVELS CTFA's active participation in the
REGULATIONS & TESTING
hair care, toothpastes, natural and organic products, analytical testing methods and microbiological testing.
KEEPING CLAIMS IN CHECK
CTFA plays an integral role in the development and annual review of the Cosmetic Code
As companies continuously adapt to meet changing regulatory requirements, ongoing research into raw materials is driving innovation in ingredient technology. These advances are enabling improved product performance and enhanced consumer benefits. Consequently, brand owners are increasingly incorporating these innovations into their products and communicating their benefits through product claims and advertising. In South Africa, the Advertising Regulatory Board's (ARB) Code of Advertising Practice provides clear guidance on advertising and product claims regarding cosmetics. CTFA plays an integral role in the development and annual review of the Cosmetic Code, ensuring that it remains relevant, scientifically robust and aligned with international best practice.
HARMONISATION OF STANDARDS ACROSS AFRICA The policy, legislative and regulatory environments of African countries are changing at a rapid pace. Multiple African countries are either reviewing their cosmetics and personal care-related
policies and legislation, or developing such for the first time. CTFA continues to increase its direct network with regulators in the most important regions to navigate the complexity and provide advice to members on accessing these markets. Over the last three years, a key area of focus has been engaging with the African Organisation for Standardisation (ARSO) – the African Union’s mirror of the International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) – as an integral part of the South African delegation negotiating the harmonisation of standards across Africa. This is critical work due to the reliance that many African countries have on standards to directly regulate cosmetics. Although challenging, the engagements are bearing fruit. The drivers for these changes include the recognition that new risks have entered markets around the world while existing risk is not being mitigated effectively – from newly identified chemical risks to illegal trade. Furthermore, from a positive and proactive perspective the continued implementation of the African Continental Free Trade Area Agreement (AfCFTA) is increasing its momentum in demanding the harmonisation of requirements on the continent to facilitate free trade. Much of this work will, in the end, result in testing requirements. Ensuring that these are rational will contribute to key indicators for the industry, such as ongoing consumer safety, competitiveness and more fluid trade. In turn, this will contribute to trade opportunities for the South African cosmetics industry, within the African continent.
ALWAYS A STEP AHEAD Beyond providing guidance on local compliance, CTFA actively participates in numerous international and continental regulatory forums. This engagement enables the association to remain informed of emerging global regulatory trends, assess their potential impact on the South African market, and contribute to international discussions. By engaging early in the regulatory process, CTFA is well positioned to influence proposed changes where appropriate and to advocate on behalf of the South African cosmetics industry before new requirements are implemented. • CTFA – ctfa.co.za WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2026
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REGULATIONS & TESTING
A regulatory strategy for successful market access in Africa Africa’s beauty and personal care market is no longer just an emerging opportunity – it is the future growth lever. Percy Sibanda, founder of African Cosmetic Regulatory Intelligence consultancy, explores why compliance is becoming the new competitive advantage to doing business in Africa.
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or many businesses, Africa is fast becoming one of the world’s most strategically important future growth frontiers. Rising consumer spending, rapid urbanisation, a youthful population and an increasing demand for locally relevant beauty products and routines are driving market expansion into the continent. Simultaneously, the African Continental Free Trade Area (AfCFTA) Treaty is accelerating what may become the world’s largest free trade area based on the number of participating countries. For cosmetic manufacturers, the African expansion opportunity is undeniable. Yet, while so much attention is placed on future tariff reductions and expanded consumer markets, most businesses continue to completely ignore or downplay the single greatest determinant of successful market entry in Africa – regulatory strategy.
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A product that is compliant in Johannesburg, may require registration before market placement in Lagos, compulsory standards certification or registration in Nairobi, extensive technical documentation for notification in Cairo or an entirely different approach with Portuguese labelling in Luanda and Maputo. The key is not simply understanding individual country regulatory requirements, but rather the recognition that Africa’s regulatory landscape at present consists of many different ecosystems, each with its own philosophy, compliance expectations and pathways.
CONSUMER TRENDS DRIVING REGULATORY DEVELOPMENTS Across the continent, consumers are becoming increasingly sophisticated in how they evaluate the products they purchase. Ease of internet access through smartphone penetration has
driven consumer attitude adjustment. Greater scrutiny of ingredient lists, product labels, efficacy claims, health and environmental impacts and sustainability claims is driving demand for higher levels of transparency and accountability from manufacturers. This shift in consumer expectations is, in turn, accelerating regulatory reform. Governments and regulatory authorities are responding by progressively strengthening their legislative frameworks, technical capabilities and enforcement capacity to better protect consumers, improve market surveillance and align with evolving international regulatory and sustainability standards. For industry, this represents more than a compliance challenge because it signals a structural shift in the regulatory landscape where proactive regulatory intelligence, robust product stewardship and evidence-based claims are becoming critical competitive differentiators and essential prerequisites for sustained market access across the continent. Therefore, regulatory affairs is evolving from a compliance function into a key strategic business capability. Companies that integrate regulatory planning into product development and commercial decision-making will enter markets faster, avoid costly delays and position themselves to capitalise on Africa's future integrated trading environment.
FOUR REGULATORY MODELS FOR AFRICAN BEAUTY MARKETS Africa is integrating commercially faster than it is harmonising in terms of regulations. One of the key mistakes beauty brand manufacturers make is assuming that Africa is a single regulatory market, when it is not! While AfCFTA and its parallel processes are helping to create integrated trade in the cosmetics environment, cosmetic regulation remains the responsibility of national governments. This creates a key
REGULATIONS & TESTING
distinction between trade integration and regulatory harmonisation as well as the need to pay particular attention to both. With the acceleration of AfCFTA implementation, products will eventually move across borders with fewer tariff barriers, but they will still need to satisfy national regulatory requirements before they can be placed on the individual national markets. Instead of viewing each country independently, companies can simplify their regulatory planning activities by recognising that African beauty markets can be classified broadly into four regulatory models. These models are: 1. the emerging regulatory frameworks 2. medicine authority registration systems 3. hybrid compulsory standards and regulatory authority registration systems 4. EU aligned notification and registration systems. Understanding these models helps companies to anticipate documentation requirements, registration timelines and compliance risks before selecting target export markets. The emerging regulatory frameworks are found in Angola, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia, which are progressively strengthening their cosmetic regulatory frameworks. As regulatory requirements evolve in these countries, there is a clear trend towards increased oversight, greater product accountability and closer alignment with international regulatory principles. These environments are not lightly regulated markets, they represent jurisdictions where cosmetic regulations are in rapid development, creating opportunities for companies to engage competent authorities early, monitor legislative developments and establish relationships as well as local partners. Businesses that continuously build regulatory flexibility into their export strategies will be better positioned as the frameworks are implemented and subsequently mature.
Ingredient declarations, manufacturing information, product specifications, certifications and supporting evidence thus become essential components of market entry rather than administrative formalities. Furthermore, regulatory planning becomes an integral part of commercial launch schedules, influencing product availability and market expansion timelines.
PUBLIC HEALTH ANCHORS WEST AFRICAN REGULATIONS
REGULATORY APPROACHES IN NORTH AFRICA
In West Africa, countries such as Nigeria, Ghana and Côte d'Ivoire regulate cosmetics primarily through well established national medicines regulatory authorities. These systems are very much public health anchored and require formal product registration supported by technical dossiers before products are legally marketed. For exporters, success in these markets depends not only on product quality but also the quality of registration documentation.
North African countries including Egypt, Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia have developed regulatory approaches characterised by comprehensive documentation requirements and strong alignment with European cosmetic regulatory principles. These markets typically expect extensive technical evidence supporting product safety, manufacturing quality, claimed efficacy and ingredient compliance. Product Information Files, safety assessments, stability data, microbiological evidence and robust
A HYBRID REGULATORY MODEL EXISTS IN EAST AFRICA East African markets – Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda and Tanzania etc. – increasingly rely on a hybrid regulatory model that combines statutory requirements presided over by a medicine regulator with compulsory standards administered through national standards bodies (NSBs). Within these systems, regulatory compliance extends beyond product safety to include a conformity assessment, vertical product specification standards, labelling requirements and technical specifications.
To reduce future redesign or overall labelling costs, brands should build flexibility into their artwork Companies should therefore develop export documentation that satisfies both the regulatory authorities and standards agencies or their appointed conformity assessment agents, depending on the product type, ensuring consistency between product design, manufacturing practices and labelling from outset.
technical documentation become fundamental market access tools rather than optional supporting documents. For companies accustomed to less document-intensive market entry strategies, preparation is essential when entering North African markets. Developing complete technical files early in product development significantly reduces future registration challenges and facilitates expansion into multiple North African jurisdictions.
AFCFTA’S BENEFITS EXTEND BEYOND REDUCED TARIFFS AfCFTA represents a strategic opportunity for cosmetic companies beyond tariff reductions and free movement of goods across borders. For the cosmetic sector, one of the most significant long-term developments will be the progressive implementation of preferential tariff treatment for qualifying African-origin products. As AfCFTA implementation milestones continue towards 2030, companies manufacturing within Africa may increasingly benefit from reduced tariff barriers when exporting across participating member states, provided rules of origin requirements are satisfied. Yet lower tariffs alone will not guarantee successful market entry. Regulatory compliance will remain the gateway to every market as it continues to be largely enforced at a national level for the foreseeable future. AfCFTA provides for systems of standards harmonisation as well as regulatory mutual recognition between countries and by default their regulators. This creates an important strategic imperative for cosmetic companies once these systems are fully operational. Companies should begin preparing now by reviewing manufacturing locations, sourcing strategies, technical documentation, product portfolios and export readiness in anticipation of leveraging standards harmonisation and regulatory mutual recognition – as is the case in medicines regulation among the seven most mature regulatory agencies in Africa. Businesses that establish regulatory compliance alongside commercially efficient supply chains will be well positioned to leverage future AfCFTA trade advantages such as standards harmonisation, regulatory mutual recognition and rules of origin as they become fully operational. Simply put, regulatory readiness will translate to the strategic advantages of trade and export readiness. WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2026
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REGULATIONS & TESTING
Consumers are becoming increasingly sophisticated in how they evaluate the products they purchase
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A REGULATORY STRATEGY OFFERS COMMERCIAL ADVANTAGE
A READINESS STRATEGY FOR AFRICA Before entering the African market, every brand owner should ask themselves these five questions: 1. Are my formulations acceptable across all intended export markets? 2. Will the product efficacy claims remain in the cosmetic realm in every market? 3. Do the Product Information Files (PIFs) support multiple regulatory systems? 4. Are the product labels scalable across jurisdictions? 5. Has regulatory planning been incorporated into the commercial strategy? The answers will determine a company’s strategic readiness to enter various key African markets. When answering question one, remember that ingredient restrictions, prohibited substances and permitted preservative systems may differ between jurisdictions. Designing products with regional compatibility in mind can minimise future reformulation costs. Claims sell products and are a key market differentiator. Claims that are considered cosmetic in one jurisdiction may be interpreted as medicinal claims elsewhere, triggering substantially different regulatory requirements. In response to question two, claims development should be validated alongside formulation development, target markets and their regulatory regimes.
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PIFs, highlighted in question three, dictate ease of market access because their content affects how rapidly registration occurs. African regulators increasingly expect evidence-based submissions for product efficacy and safety. Stability studies, microbiological quality data, safety assessments and manufacturing documentation should be developed as strategic assets rather than compliance afterthoughts as they are key to securing market access. Capability to scale labels across jurisdictions (question four), depends largely on labelling requirements relating to language, ingredient declarations, warnings, manufacturer information and mandatory statements. To reduce future redesign or overall labelling costs, brands should build flexibility into their artwork at an early stage and with the regulatory requirements of their target markets in mind. Looking at question five, product launches in Africa should not be driven solely by marketing and commercial ambition. Registration timelines, documentation requirements and regulatory review periods should inform production schedules, inventory planning and market launch strategies. These questions encourage cosmetic companies to shift regulatory affairs from the final stage of commercialisation to the earliest stages of innovation and business planning.
Over the coming decade, the companies that will define Africa's beauty industry will not necessarily be those with the largest marketing budgets or the broadest product portfolios. It will be those that recognise that regulatory strategy is a business approach and actively transform regulatory intelligence into commercial actions. Cosmetic companies should be investing in export-ready formulations, robust technical documentation, scalable labelling systems and continent-wide regulatory intelligence, which allows them to move confidently into new markets as opportunities emerge. African market access should never begin with selecting a distributor. It should start with developing a regulatory strategy. The future belongs to companies that are prepared, not only to comply with Africa's evolving regulatory landscape, but to also leverage regulatory evolution and compete successfully within it. Africa's next generation of beauty company market leaders will not be determined by who makes the best cosmetics, but by who adapts the quickest and capitalises on the continent’s rapidly evolving regulatory landscape to their commercial advantage. •
About the author: Percy Sibanda is a cosmetic chemist with over 20 years’ experience across Europe and Africa. He spent 13 years as the scientific and regulatory affairs advisor for sub-Saharan Africa at the L'Oréal Groupe and teaches cosmetic science modules for the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. He founded the consultancy business, African Cosmetic Regulatory Intelligence in 2026.
African Cosmetic Regulatory Intelligence – www.acrintel.co.za
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PHARMA FOCUS/COATINGS & EQUIPMENT
Beyond coatings:
Colorcon reinforces full-spectrum support for SA pharma When Colorcon hosted its latest technical seminar in Johannesburg on 22 July, in partnership with its long-standing local agent PA Cuthbert & Co, a clear message was evident: the company is here for its customers. By Abby Vorster
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cross a programme of presentations spanning market dynamics, regulatory developments, technical insights, formulation science and nutraceutical innovation, the content shared throughout the day revealed that Colorcon® is far more than a supplier of pharmaceutical film coatings. The company is a full-spectrum formulation partner invested in the success of South African pharma and nutraceutical manufacturers.
A GROWING MARKET IN A CONSOLIDATING LANDSCAPE Sithembiso Dlalisa, Colorcon’s regional sales manager for the Middle East and Africa, opened with an overview of South Africa’s pharmaceutical growth opportunities. He revealed that the market is being driven by the rapid expansion of generics, rising demand for chronic and lifestyle disease
Colorcon offers cost-efficient coating systems optimised for local excipient platforms 24
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treatments and the ongoing push to expand local manufacturing capacity. Citing data from the World Health Organization, national sources and BMI, Dlalisa presented a sector on a clear upward trajectory. Yet the picture is not without tension. Import dependence remains high, cost pressures from currency volatility persist and operational risks – including energy fragility and logistics challenges – continue to test the resilience of local manufacturers. Against this backdrop, manufacturing consolidation is taking hold as companies seek the scale and efficiency needed to remain competitive in a growing but increasingly demanding market. Colorcon’s response, as Dlalisa explained, is to support customers through this transition rather than simply supply products. The company offers accelerated local manufacturing through tech transfer, training and formulation support. Colorcon also offers cost-efficient coating systems optimised for local excipient platforms and generics production, alongside regulatory guidance and local technical services to help manufacturers achieve faster market entry. A point that resonated strongly with attendees is the offering of local stability testing and coating trials, conducted at PA Cuthbert & Co. The company has its own coating pan located at its facility in Gauteng,
South Africa. Any customers interested in exploring this service can reach out to Natasha Samuel at PA Cuthbert & Co.
NAVIGATING REGULATORY COMPLEXITY Amiee Allen, Colorcon’s regulatory affairs manager for EMEA, delivered a comprehensive regulatory update in line with market trends toward clean label ingredients and sustainability. On the topic of nitrosamines, Allen emphasised that the issue remains a global concern. Five of seven known nitrosamines, including NDMA, have been detected in APIs and drug products. She stressed that nitrosamine risk is complex and contextdependent, arising from a combination of factors rather than excipients alone. These factors include nitrites, elevated temperatures, acidic conditions and the presence of secondary or tertiary amines. Nitrites in excipients are not automatically a concern, but regulators expect manufacturers to take a holistic, risk-based approach. Colorcon provides support in this regard through technical product data, transparency and regulatory expertise, having completed IPEC nitrosamine questionnaires across its product portfolio. Allen also provided an update on TiO2 which brought clarity to an area of
PHARMA FOCUS/COATINGS & EQUIPMENT
significant industry uncertainty. While the European Food Safety Authority took a precautionary approach in removing E171 from food applications, the European Court of Justice annulled the classification of TiO2 as a suspected inhalation carcinogen in August 2025. The European Commission subsequently confirmed that TiO2 will remain authorised for use as a colourant in medicines. However, for dietary supplements regulated as foods, TiO2 is generally not permitted in the EU, meaning reformulation is typically required. In South Africa and across Africa, TiO2 is still widely permitted in both medicines and supplements. Sustainability is increasingly a regulatory consideration in its own right. Allen highlighted the EU's Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR), progressively applicable from August 2026, and the microplastics restrictions under REACH. While pharmaceuticals are currently exempt from the microplastics ban, transparency and reporting requirements are expected to increase. The broader message was clear: compliance now extends beyond the product itself to encompass packaging, environmental impact and lifecycle management.
INNOVATION IN COATING TECHNOLOGY The seminar also introduced two new film coating systems, presented by Socrates Abreu, Colorcon’s senior area technical manager. Opadry® QX is a high-solids, low-viscosity film coating system designed to improve manufacturing productivity, efficiency and robustness. While delivering excellent film adhesion, faster coating times and wider processing latitude across a range of equipment types, its key differentiator is its ability to provide consistent coating quality at scale, reducing dependence on operator expertise and minimising process variability. As the industry faces increasing cost pressures and energy constraints, Opadry QX offers one of the most efficient coating processes available, reducing water and energy consumption while enabling manufacturers to achieve up to three times greater throughput using existing equipment, without additional capital investment. Opadry® SGR brings speed and simplicity to sugar coating, replacing the traditional labour-intensive process with a threestep system that cuts total processing time in half. It can be applied using
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1. Socrates Abreu, Colorcon’s senior area technical manager, pictured with seminar attendees 2. Natasha Samuel, director, PA Cuthbert & Co 3. Barry Friend, Colorcon’s principal area technical manager 4. Sithembiso Dlalisa, Colorcon’s regional sales manager for the Middle East and Africa
conventional solid pans without additional
Easy Swallow coating addresses a real
investment, making it an accessible solution for manufacturers seeking to improve efficiency, lower operating costs and increase production capacity while maintaining the appearance and performance associated with traditional sugar-coated tablets. Together, these innovations highlight Colorcon’s commitment to helping pharmaceutical manufacturers address today's operational challenges through practical, scalable technologies that enhance productivity, sustainability, and manufacturing performance.
consumer challenge by improving mouthfeel, palatability and tablet acceptance. Colorcon's functional packaging division extends the company’s basket of offerings even further. The OneLock™ All-in-One desiccant closure integrates moisture protection into a single cap, eliminating the need for loose desiccant components. Combined with the Stablus® predictive shelflife simulation tool, it offers an integrated approach to moisture management spanning core, coating and primary packaging.
BEYOND PHARMA WITH NUTRACEUTICALS AND PACKAGING The company’s nutraceutical portfolio, demonstrates Colorcon’s depth across formulation, coating and packaging beyond pharmaceutical coatings. The Nutracore® range offers label-friendly fillers and lubricants made from natural materials such as tapioca polysaccharide, safflower oil and rice starch, delivering superior powder flow and compressibility. Nutrafinish® coatings provide immediate release and moisture barrier options, including a TiO2-free system using calcium carbonate for opacity. This is directly relevant to manufacturers navigating EU restrictions on E171. Nutrapure® offers a 100% certified organic, plant-derived coating, while the Nutrateric® system provides enteric protection for sensitive ingredients such as garlic and fish oil. With four in 10 adults reporting difficulty when swallowing tablets, the Nutrafinish®
PARTNERSHIP AS THE THROUGHLINE Throughout the seminar, the word that surfaced in nearly every presentation was ‘partnership’. From Dlalisa's overview of local manufacturing support to Allen's closing message – that navigating an evolving regulatory landscape requires collaboration between manufacturers, suppliers and regulatory affairs teams – the partnership theme was unmistakable. As Allen noted, global trends influence local markets, and choosing the right partner has never been more important. For South African manufacturers, the combination of local representation through PA Cuthbert & Co and its on-site coating capability plus the digital tools represents a partnership model designed to reduce time to market and build technical confidence. As Dlalisa reminded attendees, Colorcon's mission is to help customers deliver better medicines – faster, safer and with confidence in quality. • Colorcon – www.colorcon.com PA Cuthbert & Co – pacuthbert.co.za WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2026
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BEAUTY BIOTECH
Collagen reimagined through biotechnology From structural proteins to biological signals, biotechnology is shaping skin longevity in various ways. Evonik’s Petra Biehl and Dr Katja Skrabiana discuss the latest advances in biotechnology-derived collagen platforms. cellular communication, impaired tissue remodelling, and disruption of extracellular matrix (ECM) homeostasis. Healthy skin depends on continuous communication between keratinocytes and fibroblasts, which coordinate repair, regeneration and matrix maintenance. As these signalling networks become less efficient with age, skin’s ability to maintain structural integrity progressively declines. This has led to growing interest in collagen signalling, which is the ability of collagen-derived fragments, often referred to as matrikines or matricryptins, to act as biological messengers that influence cellular behaviour and ECM maintenance. Biomimetic collagen polypeptides produced through biotechnology are being designed not only to mimic human skin biology, but also to engage signalling pathways involved in tissue remodelling, skin resilience and long-term extracellular matrix homeostasis.
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he beauty industry is moving beyond traditional anti-ageing strategies towards a new goal: skin longevity. Rather than simply correcting visible signs of ageing, longevity-focused skincare seeks to preserve skin function, resilience and structural integrity over time. This shift is driven by advances in biotechnology and a deeper understanding of the biological mechanisms that underpin skin ageing. Increasingly, formulators are looking beyond surfacelevel benefits and towards ingredients that support the processes responsible for maintaining healthy skin.
PRECISE FERMENTATION AND THE RISE OF DESIGNER COLLAGEN
WHY AESTHETIC DERMATOLOGY IS PAYING ATTENTION
Collagen has long been a cornerstone of skincare. Traditionally sourced from bovine, porcine, or marine origins, collagen ingredients have offered limited opportunities for functional optimisation. Precision fermentation is changing this paradigm. Using microorganisms as production platforms, scientists can generate highly defined protein or peptide sequences through synthetic biology. Beyond providing animal-free alternatives, this approach enables the development of designer collagens – engineered proteins that are designed to deliver specific biological functions. As a result, collagen is evolving from a structural material into a sophisticated biological tool.
The concept of collagen signalling is particularly relevant to the evolving field of aesthetic dermatology. Procedures such as microneedling, laser resurfacing and radiofrequency treatments rely on skin’s ability to repair and remodel itself. Increasingly, practitioners are focusing not only on collagen production, but also on broader concepts such as skin quality, recovery capacity and tissue resilience. A key area of interest is cellular communication mediated by exosomes and microRNAs. These molecular messengers help coordinate biological responses between skin cells, supporting tissue repair, matrix remodelling and skin homeostasis. Consequently, there is growing interest in ingredients that help maintain the biological environment needed for effective regeneration and recovery. This convergence of biotechnology, longevity science, dermocosmetics and aesthetic dermatology is creating new opportunities for next-generation skincare solutions
Biotechnology is transforming collagen FROM COLLAGEN STRUCTURE TO from a structural protein COLLAGEN SIGNALLING Skin ageing is increasingly understood into a biological signal as more than a gradual loss of collagen. It is also associated with declining
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designed to support skin quality, resilience and recovery.
TRANSLATING LONGEVITY SCIENCE INTO COSMETIC INNOVATION The emergence of biotechnology-derived collagen platforms illustrates how these concepts are being translated into cosmetic applications. One example is the Vecollage ® Fortify range, which uses a human skinidentical collagen polypeptide inspired by collagen type III biology. Produced through precision fermentation, the technology is designed to support collagen balance, extracellular matrix integrity, skin resilience and structural skin longevity. It also reflects growing industry interest in solutions that support recovery-oriented skincare and post-procedure skin quality, in addition to traditional anti-ageing benefits.
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY BIOTECH The future of collagen innovation is no longer simply about replacement. Biotechnology is transforming collagen from a structural protein into a biological
signal. As advances in protein engineering, precision fermentation and longevity science continue to accelerate, the next generation of skincare ingredients will be designed to support cellular communication, extracellular matrix homeostasis and longterm skin resilience.
In this emerging paradigm, beauty biotech is helping shift skincare from treating visible signs of ageing to supporting the biological systems that allow skin to perform at its best for longer. • Evonik – www.evonik.com
Active Ingredients
ELEVATING BEAUTY. NATURALLY AND PRECISELY. Vecollage® Fortify collagen polypeptides ■
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Skin-identical Biotech-engineered Clinically proven Learn more on evonik.click/vegancollagen
26-01-004 -03- Anzeige Vecollage Fortify Südafrika, 177x130mm.indd 1
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A winter investment for summer beauty As Provital's award-winning Intensilk™ reaches South African formulators through Savannah Fine Chemicals, we examine the science behind the first cosmetic active to mimic caloric restriction in adipocytes – and why winter is the ideal time to begin building body care ranges around it.
Intensilk™ is designed to remodel tissue architecture by acting on subcutaneous inflammation through the PI3K–Akt–mTOR pathway and activating lipophagy – the cellular recycling of stored lipids. Beyond fat reduction, Intensilk™ is designed to remodel tissue architecture by acting on subcutaneous inflammation, decreasing lipid accumulation and stimulating collagen and elastin production.
NATURALLY SOURCED AND CLINICALLY PROVEN
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he principle that summer bodies are made in winter is well established in the beauty industry. In South Africa, the cold months from June to August create a natural window for body care treatments to take effect before the festive season arrives. Now formulators have a powerful new active to anchor that seasonal strategy.
image: gettyimages
DERMOHACKING CELLULITE THROUGH CIRCULAR BIO-ENERGY Intensilk™, developed by Provital and distributed locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, is the first cosmetic active ingredient proven to mimic the biological effects of caloric restriction in adipocytes. Provital terms this a ‘dermohacking’ approach – reprogramming adipocyte metabolism from lipid storage to energy recycling through a process it calls ‘ circular bio-energy’. The ingredient is derived from apple blossoms, ethically harvested from a family owned fruit farm 150km from Provital’s facilities in Spain. It is standardised in phlorizin, an antioxidant flavonoid that competes with glucose for binding to glucose-transporters in adipocytes. This triggers a cellular response mimicking caloric restriction, modulating metabolism
AWARD-WINNING INNOVATION
The world-class credentials Intensilk™ have been reinforced with a series of international awards. At in-cosmetics Korea 2026 in Seoul, it received a Gold Award in the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient — Actives category and a Bronze K-Beauty Standout Award. Intensilk™ also received a Hero Ingredient Award in the category Active Ingredient Innovation during Cosmo HomeTech India.
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The active carries a 100% natural-origin certification under ISO 16128 and is COSMOS-approved, aligning with growing demand from South African brands for verifiable, sustainably sourced ingredients. Provital's clinical support is robust. A study involving 56 female volunteers used instrumental, topographical and biomechanical analysis to evaluate the ingredient against a placebo over 28 and 56 days. Results were statistically significant: • up to a 6cm reduction in body contour • 13.7% reduction in fat thickness • 18.2% improvement in skin firmness • 47ms improvement in dynamic tissue recovery time. Volunteers also showed a reduction in the appearance of cellulite dimples and skin roughness coupled with increased skin elasticity and hydration, enhanced dynamic leg tone, and decreased dermo-hypodermal junction length, thigh circumference and hypodermis thickness. In vitro studies independently demonstrated that the ingredient reduces fat vesicles in mature adipocytes by up to 56% compared to a control. Notably, Intensilk™ showed synergistic effects when combined with mechanical massage, making it suitable for both at-home-use body care and in-clinic anti-cellulite treatments. The latter being a segment that continues to expand in South Africa’s professional beauty market.
A LOCALLY ACCESSIBLE ADVANTAGE For South African beauty brands and manufacturers, the appeal is clear. Intensilk™ offers a scientifically grounded, naturally derived active that bridges traditional body care and medical-aesthetic treatments. With Savannah Fine Chemicals providing local distribution and technical support, it is readily accessible to brands strengthening their body care portfolios. The brands that start their body care journey in winter are the ones who will see results by summer. With Intensilk™, this journey now has a scientifically proven starting point. • Provital – www.weareprovital.com/en Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
CUTTING EDGE TECHNOLOGY WITH SENSORY EXPERTISE WHICH WILL SET YOU APART
From basic ingredients to specialty actives for key application areas: Sun Care | Skin Care | Hair Care | Baby Care | Hygiene | Oral Care
Johannesburg: +27 11 856 4500 Cape Town: +27 21 830 5306
Durban: +27 31 313 3338 Email: info@savannah.co.za
www.savannah.co.za
BEAUTY BIOTECH
The beauty of biomimicry Lipotrue's Waspilk™ draws on the structural ingenuity of spider silk to create a biomimetic peptide with dual-action benefits for skin and hair. Discover how the ingredient harnesses tensile strength and elastic resilience, what this means for formulation performance and why biomimicry is emerging as a key trend in next-generation beauty innovation.
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n nature, few materials capture the imagination quite like spider silk. Its ability to be ‘five times stronger than steel and more flexible than nylon’ has long fascinated scientists and innovators. Among all types of silk, the lifeline silk of the wasp spider stands out as the structural backbone of the web – an extraordinary thread capable of absorbing impact, stretching without breaking and returning to its original form with remarkable ease. Inspired by this natural masterpiece, Lipotrue introduces Waspilk™. This biomimetic peptide translates the architecture of spider silk into a new dimension of cosmetic performance. Waspilk™ is designed to mirror the dual nature of Major Ampullate Spidroins (MaSp). These are the proteins responsible for the silk’s unmatched strength and elasticity. They combine firm, structured β sheet regions with flexible, glycine rich segments that allow the silk to stretch and rebound. By capturing this balance, Waspilk™ delivers a unique fusion of tensile support and elastic resilience, offering skin and hair the ability to withstand daily stress while maintaining a supple, youthful feel.
STRENGTH THAT SUPPORTS, ELASTICITY THAT ADAPTS On skin, Waspilk™ reinforces the architecture that keeps the complexion firm, smooth and cohesive. It supports the natural network of structural proteins, helping the epidermis remain organised and resilient. This translates into a complexion that feels lifted, more resistant to deformation and better equipped to maintain its shape throughout the day.
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Waspilk™ also enhances skin’s elastic components, encouraging a bouncy, flexible quality that is essential for a youthful appearance. By supporting the fibres responsible for stretch and recoil, the peptide helps skin recover more easily from movement, expression and environmental stress. The result is a complexion that not only looks smoother and firmer, but also feels more alive, more responsive, more resilient and more radiant.
A NEW ERA OF HAIR VITALITY Waspilk™ extends its biomimetic power to the scalp and hair, where strength and flexibility are equally essential. At the root, it supports the vitality of the follicle environment, helping maintain optimal conditions for healthy growth. The peptide contributes to a balanced scalp, improved comfort and a foundation that promotes long term hair resilience. Along the fibre, Waspilk™ enhances the structural proteins that give hair its shape, elasticity and resistance. It helps fibres better withstand stretching, brushing, styling and daily mechanical stress. Even chemically treated or weakened hair benefits from this biomimetic reinforcement, gaining a smoother touch, improved flexibility and a more radiant appearance from root to tip.
BEAUTY INSPIRED BY NATURE, ELEVATED BY SCIENCE Available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, Waspilk™ embodies the elegance of biomimicry: taking inspiration from one of nature’s most advanced creations and transforming it into a cosmetic ingredient that
Waspilk™ reinforces the architecture that keeps the complexion firm, smooth and cohesive
strengthens, protects and revitalises. It offers brands a story rooted in scientific wonder and sensory performance – a fusion of natural intelligence and modern biotechnology. From firmer, more elastic skin to stronger, more resilient hair, Waspilk™ brings the extraordinary properties of spider silk into everyday beauty rituals, empowering consumers to experience a new level of performance and transformation. •
LipoTrue – lipotrue.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
BEAUTY BIOTECH
Greener ingredients for better beauty Derived from avocado, SENSOL 100® provides a sustainable alternative to silicones while delivering proven efficacy and high sensory performance. Its combination of efficacy and environmental compatibility makes it an innovative solution for modern cosmetic formulations. By Antoine Gavignaud, Magalie Cabannes and Jean-Yves Berthon
image: gettyimages
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osmetics now occupy a central place in society, halfway between science and lifestyle. They are no longer limited to visual enhancement. Beyond effectiveness, texture and skin feel are becoming decisive
innovation. While the nutritional and cosmetic properties of avocado pulp and oil are now well established, the valoriation of processing residues is emerging as a major lever for reducing the environmental impact of avocado
criteria, capable of transforming a simple gesture into a moment of pure pleasure. In the quest for originality and novelty, silicones have long been prized for their unique properties: a silky feel, incomparable smoothness and a ‘second skin’ effect. But faced with expectations for diversification and innovation, laboratories are mobilising to develop innovative alternatives capable of reproducing these iconic sensations. Biotechnology and advanced formulation are being harnessed simultaneously to create new materials that deliver airy fluidity, enveloping comfort, a silky finish and instant freshness. This innovation is paving the way for hybrid textures that combine tactile pleasure, performance and sustainability. The future of beauty is no longer just about visible effectiveness, but also about the art of reinventing touch.
production chains. SENSOL 100® is a lipid ingredient obtained through a specific purification process applied to crude oil. This by-product has an interesting biochemical profile. It consists of palmitic acid from non-palm oil origin and linoleic acids known for their emollient, lipid-replenishing and skin barrier-protecting properties. This lipid richness gives SENSOL 100® an efficacy comparable to, or even superior to, synthetic references commonly used in cosmetic formulations, such as silicones or mineral oils.
THE MULTIPLE BENEFITS OF AVOCADO Avocado and its by-products are an example of the current trend in the cosmetics industry towards sustainable and responsible
RHEOLOGICAL PROPERTIES AND ADVANTAGES SENSOL 100® consists of several fatty acids: Omega 16 palmitic acid (35-45%), Omega 7 palmitoleic acid (3-10%), Omega 9 oleic acid (40-60%), and Omega 6 linoleic acid (5-15%) (figure 1). This variety in its composition lends to interesting rheological properties such as different melting points. A high melting point is ideal for formulation as it allows products to be structured and more resistant to higher temperatures, reducing storage and transport constraints. The fatty acids make this compound a semi-solid lipid (SSL) product – it does not require the addition of synthetic waxes or ingredients derived from the petrochemical industry, providing natural mechanical stability.
COSMETIC BENEFITS OF SENSOL 100® A proteomic study was performed on skin explants treated with SENSOL 100® at 5% applied every 24 hours for two days. The study claims that if a protein, known for its effect on a certain cellular pathway, is either promoted or inhibited by the ingredient, then the ingredient has an influence on said pathway. SENSOL 100® demonstrated an effect on mitochondrial metabolism by increasing by 41% the expression of proteins involved in this pathway (figure 2). Following the same reasoning, SENSOL 100® promotes glycolysis and Krebs cycle by 39% and 12% respectively (figure 2). SENSOL 100® also promotes a reduction of inflammation by reducing the expression of interleukin by 35%, 21% and 12% for IL-1, IL-9 and IL-12 respectively (figure 3).
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After only three minutes, skin feels nourished, and the product has no soaping effect (figure 5). The acids also provide skin hydration like paraffin oil does (figure 6). Fatty acids were used in a hair mask and compared to avocado oil. The fatty acids strengthen the hair fibres, making them supple and soft with no greasy after-feel (figure 7).
COMPARISON TEST RESULTS SENSOL 100® was evaluated in comparison with references commonly used in cosmetics: • a silicone (dimethicone) • a mineral oil (paraffin oil) • a vegetable oil (avocado oil). The results show that avocado fatty acids have properties very similar to those of dimethicone and paraffin, in terms of odour, pH and colour. Therefore, despite their natural origin, these fatty acids can offer performance equivalent to synthetic or mineral alternatives. In addition, SENSOL 100® has a richer and creamier texture, which makes it pleasant to apply. Its colour is softer and less intense than that of raw avocado oil, making it easier to incorporate into cosmetic formulations. Unlike traditional avocado oil, with its characteristic vegetal aroma that can sometimes be perceived as too pronounced, SENSOL 100® has a neutral odour. This is a major advantage for users who are sensitive to strong scents. Avocado fatty acids offer the naturalness and purity of a plant-based raw material, combined with an effectiveness comparable to that of silicones and mineral oils.
image: gettyimages
PROVEN EFFICACY THROUGH SENSORY TESTING Sensory tests were conducted on volunteers to determine the effects of fatty acids. In emulsion form, and compared to silicone, SENSOL 100® provides a softening and rich effect. The skin feels nourished, with an effect like that of silicone. The penetration strength of the two products and their ease of spreading are also similar (figure 4). When compared to paraffin, SENSOL 100® shows similarities in terms in spreadability, penetration speed and ease of application.
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DID YOU KNOW? SENSOL 100 ® generates fewer greenhouse gases and requires less energy-intensive processes than alkanes and petrochemical derivatives. These compounds release large amounts of CO₂ and methane (25 times more potent than CO₂), produce persistent pollutants and rely on high-risk chemical processes that are harmful to biodiversity.
A SAFE INGREDIENT FOR PEDIATRIC FORMULATIONS The composition of SENSOL 100® gives it a particularly pleasant silky feel. The balance of lipids makes it an ingredient of choice for sensitive skin that is prone to irritation or discomfort. Its skin tolerance, confirmed by current regulatory safety assessments, makes SENSOL 100® suitable for use in skincare products for young children and infants. Thanks to its gentleness and non-aggressive profile, SENSOL 100® blends well in pediatric formulations, guaranteeing efficacy and safety in compliance with the strictest standards. • SENSOL 100® is available in South Africa from Natchem, the approved local distributor of Greentech. About the authors: Antoine Gavignaud is Greentech’s scientific communication manager, Magalie Cabannes is the formulation manager, and Jean-Yves Berthon is CEO of Greentech. Greentech – www.greentech.fr/en Natchem – www.natchem.co.za
2024 INNOVATION ZONE BEST INGREDIENT
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They are a sustainable and high-performance alternative, meeting the expectations of consumers looking for innovative products without compromising on quality or results.
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ASSOCIATION NEWS/COSCHEM
Industry comes together at KZN Supplier Day South Africa’s personal care industry came together in impressive numbers on 21 July at Coschem’s 2026 KZN Supplier Day, reaffirming the value of face-to-face engagement in driving innovation, collaboration and business growth.
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his year's event marked an exciting milestone as Coschem hosted the event at a new venue – Riverside Conference Centre, Durban North. The event attracted approximately 160 industry professionals, including around 100 visitors and 66 supplier representatives from across the country. Suppliers travelled from Johannesburg, Cape Town and throughout KwaZulu-Natal to showcase the latest raw materials, technologies, formulation solutions and technical expertise available to the local market.
A PLATFORM FOR COLLABORATION More than a traditional tabletop exhibition, the KZN Supplier Day provided a platform for meaningful conversations between ingredient suppliers, manufacturers, formulators, product developers, and brand owners. Throughout the morning, attendees explored emerging ingredient trends, discussed formulation challenges, discovered
image: gettyimages
EXHIBITORS AND SPONSORSHIP • Acti-Chem • AECI Specialty Chemicals • Botanichem • Carst & Walker • Carvansons - Fragrance Creation • Chempure (donated sample bags) • CJP Chemicals • Croda Beauty • ESP - Essential Specialised Products (registration desk host) • Fourchem • H&R South Africa
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• IMCD Group • Monitoring & Control Laboratories/Brookfield • Millchem • Moellhausen • Orchem • Peters Papers & Chemicals (donated lanyards) • Rolfes Chemicals • Safic Alcan Southern Chemicals • Savannah Fine Chemicals • Stacor SA • Vantage Specialty Chemicals
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new technologies, and strengthened professional relationships that continue to drive innovation within South Africa’s cosmetics and personal care sector.
GRATITUDE FOR SUPPLIER SUPPORT As the industry continues to evolve in response to changing consumer expectations, sustainability goals, scientific advances and regulatory developments, events such as the KZN Supplier Day play an important role in connecting the value chain. The opportunity to engage directly with suppliers and technical specialists enables businesses to remain informed, competitive and responsive to market needs. The success of the event was made possible through the support of 22 exhibiting supplier companies, representing many of the industry's leading ingredient and solution providers. • Coschem – www.coschem.co.za
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