September 2020 Volume 47 | Number 9
47
years www.pharmacos.co.za
Even
tone
Crafting new ideals around beautiful skin
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING & PACKING Sachet Manufacturers turns 30!
ETHNIC CARE
A holistic approach to preserving African beauty
SERIALISE, TRACK & TRACE Explore traceability powered by digitisation
Caring for your Customers – Our promise. In today’s increasingly fragmented personal care market, consumers expect more than excellent personal care products. www.basf.co.za www.grow-africa.co.za
September 2020
Contents
Volume 47 | Number 9 www.pharmacos.co.za
36 Contract Manufacturing & Packing Bespoke conveyor and traceability systems from TracePack
44
Sachet Manufacturers commemorates its 30th anniversary Remancos keeps its eye on quality and customer service
42 Serialise, Track & Trace A closer look at traceability powered by digitisation Combining AI with the power of embedded vision How to add value in pharmaceutical packaging
18
16
6 News
14 Ethnic Care
28 Home Care & I&I
People on the move at CLR Berlin
Address inflammation with AnnonaSense CLR
Local lion sanctuary receives support from Environ
Naturally beautiful solutions from Innospec
Symrise’s clean fragrance solutions for home care products
Celebrating the remarkable life of Wally Hopton
Justine launches A-Firm Brightening for African skin
Industroclean highlights regulatory developments of chemical disinfectants
Millchem’s holistic approach to preserving ethnic beauty
New ecolabel guidance tool from Clariant
Symrise inspires more in skin brightening
34 Pharma Focus: Powder Handling & Processing
9 Product News What’s new on our radar
Discover new innovations from Savannah Fine Chemicals
10 New Product Competition
New technology and equipment from Kemutec
Go waterless with BASF’s solid conditioners
Read more to enter
Marchesini remains strong despite COVID-19 challenges
13 Industry Talk
48 Association News What’s been happening at Coschem
14
On the cover
AnnonaSense CLR addresses inflammatory concerns in skin care
“A daily skin care regime with a focus on skin inflammation would be extremely beneficial for skin of all ethnicities”
Consumer confidence declines in SA
30 Company Focus Celebrating the official launch of Iberchem South Africa Essential Specialised Products celebrates its 10th anniversary
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2020
3
FROM THE EDITOR
The team EDITORIAL
Be inspired by new beginnings
I
’m so excited it’s finally Spring – the season of new beginnings and warmer days as well as a time for change. The new beginnings theme is highly relevant to this edition of P&C Review, as we explore a fresh approach to caring for ethnic hair and dark skin tones. For centuries, the trend in ethnic skin care was to lighten the skin in the hope that it would appear brighter with a more even tone. Yet the results were never guaranteed and consumers who used skin lightening products were often left with serious side effects and complications. In the quest for safer alternatives, manufacturers of ingredients and formulation technologies have adopted new approaches to ethnic skin care by developing active ingredients that address inflammation – an underlying cause of pigmentation. In turn, the conversation around skin lightening has changed, with brands communicating the importance of caring for African skin and textured hair in more holistic way. This is evident in our ethnic care feature on page 14. Check out Harald van der Hoeven of CLR Berlin’s technical article on how treating inflammation is the first step to even skin tone. We also bring you innovations from Innospec to design effective, mild cleansing products; a basket of proven skin care actives from Ashland’s Vincience biofunctionals portfolio which enhances the natural beauty of dark skin; Symrise’s expertise in sensitive skin, which led to the development of a safe and synergistic brightening solution that is ideal for sensitive skin; and the super gloss performance of hair oils formulated with a natural resin from KahlWax which acts as a film former.
EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za LAYOUT & DESIGN: Andipha Nkoloti SUB-EDITOR: Katrien Smit CONTRIBUTORS: Martina Heldermann, Harald van der Hoeven
ADVERTISING
In addition to new beginnings, our September edition is also one of celebration. Essential Specialised Products marks a decade in business with a thought-provoking article on intuition, innovation and entrepreneurial success, and how Jane Grainger and her team faced their challenges head on to end 2019 on a high note. The second celebration featured this month is Sachet Manufacturers’ 30th anniversary. The company has a long history of providing efficient, high-quality packing and manufacturing services to the home and personal care industries in South Africa and beyond. We spoke to the managing director, Riaz Dhai, about Sachet Manufacturers’ vibrant history and promising future. I hope the warmer weather and new life literally springing up from the ground inspires you as much as it inspires me, especially as this is a great time to launch new and exciting things. Remember to let us know more about what you’re launching. You can also enter your new products in the P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition. Turn to page 10 now to find out more about the competition.
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INTERNATIONAL SALES
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EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
Vivian Frittelli
P C Review is the official journal of:
CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
4
SEPTEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
John Knowlton
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - T he Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by Novus Print - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
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NEWS
New digital training from Alec Cameron As a leading training provider to the FMCG
on its website.
industry, Alec Cameron is introducing a
These courses
cutting-edge training platform to its existing
will be available to
client base. As training budgets come under
anyone, at any time
pressure, the company is able to offer
and location, as long as they have a device,
its popular training courses in a safe and
internet connection and a web browser. The
affordable way.
modules are designed to be mobile friendly
Alec Cameron was established in 1983 as a specialised recruitment company for
Peter Hannah, founder of Alec Cameron
for learning on the go, giving greater flexibility. “We wanted to address the challenges
chemists, analysts, microbiologists and
we have faced over the years of ensuring our
pharmacists. In 1995, its founder, Peter
audience is truly engaged. Our new courses
Hannah identified a need in the industry
include videos, animation, podcasts and
for training. Hannah wanted to provide
other forms of digital content. The training is
experience-based training courses to assist
visually stimulating and point driven. Features
companies in short cutting the often steep
like gamification, surveys, quizzes and
and expensive learning curve.
assessments make it even more interactive,”
Throughout the last 25 years, its
says Hannah. “Our courses are created in
traditional GMP, auditing, validation, quality
bite-sized chunks, promoting knowledge
risk management, GEP, GWP and GLP, and
retention by eliminating the confusion of
laboratory practical courses have set the
what’s important and what’s not. Micro
standard in South Africa.
learning is ideal for learners with short
There is a time and place for traditional and virtual classroom methods, however,
attention spans and tight schedules.” The aim of this new offering from Alec
Alec Cameron has decided to use the current
Cameron is to provide added value through
technology available to take its training to
the purchasing of course bundles and
the next level. The company has designed
customised user licenses, in order to suit
micro learning courses, which are hosted
any budget.
People on the move at CLR Berlin CLR Berlin is constantly developing
In the company’s efforts to prepare
and expanding, even in these difficult
for the future and grow sustainably,
times. In a further step of positive
it aims to further professionalise
development, the company is
activities in its external and internal
happy to announce that, as of
communications. Gruber will direct
1 September, Nathalia Gruber will
these developments for CLR Berlin,
take over as director marketing and
and will take over from Harald van der
corporate communications.
Hoeven who joined the company in
Gruber joined CLR Berlin in 2008 and since 2010, she has been the company’s marketing manager. In her new role she will head CLR Berlin’s marketing
2006 as director of R&D. As director of technical marketing Van der Hoeven has headed the marketing department since 2013. Van der Hoeven will now have a
department and
newly developed position at CLR
shall coordinate
Berlin as director product design
its marketing
and development. In this role, he
activities worldwide.
will continue to work closely with
CLR’s R&D labs and sales and Both Nathalia Gruber and Harald van der marketing departments, focusing the Hoeven have been appointed to new roles company’s science on the needs of within CLR Berlin its customers.
6
Neopac triumphant at Tube of the Year awards
SEPTEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
In the Laminate Tubes category, Neopac won for its Stylo polyfoil tube with spatula applicator for Canesten, a Bayer Consumer Health product
A global provider of high-quality packaging, Neopac has earned two Tube of the Year awards from the European Tube Manufacturers Association (ETMA). The recognition was received in two of the competition’s most coveted categories: Plastic Tubes and Laminate Tubes. ETMA is an association for producers of flexible aluminium, plastic and laminate tubes. Representing the interests of 46 members from 19 European countries, it communicates the benefits of tube packaging while its annual competition showcases some of the tube industry’s most ground-breaking new solutions. In the Plastic Tubes category, Neopac’s recycled plastic tube took top honours. Part of Neopac’s EcoDesign family of sustainable solutions and suitable for use with cosmetic products, the recycled plastic tubes comprise 64% PCR material derived from household waste such as milk, water and juice bottles, and post-industrial recycled material (PIR) from laminate production waste. These tubes provide a smaller carbon footprint and lower environmental impact over their lifespan. They are certified by Ecocert and cleared for full food contact by the US FDA. In the Laminate Tubes category, Neopac won for its Stylo polyfoil tube with spatula applicator for Canesten, a Bayer Consumer Health cream for treating athlete’s foot. Features include a special applicator comprising soft TPE material, allowing patients to apply the cream hands-free. This is an important benefit as athlete’s foot is a highly contagious fungal infection. To meet Bayer’s requirements, Neopac incorporated a rotating ring on the applicator to prevent leakage and protect the product. On-off marking indicates whether the applicator is open or closed and, thanks to a novel ribbing effect, operation of the rotating ring is convenient for all age groups. The polyfoil laminate protects the product against light, air and water vapor diffusion and migration. Notably, the packaging solution was a hit with consumers – approximately 90% found Canesten product application convenient and simple via the enhanced applicator.
NEWS
Local lion sanctuary receives support from Environ The South African skin care brand has committed to supporting a local big cat sanctuary in celebration of World Lion Day. Annually, an estimated 40% of lions held in captivity die of a condition caused by a lack of vitamin A, though this situation could be changed through the collective efforts of various industries. In response, Environ has pledged to support the cost of vitamin A supplements for the lions at Love Lions Alive Sanctuary. Sanctuary business partner, Line Risa (left) with sanctuary CEO, Andi Rive
These lions require daily vitamin A supplements, or they risk developing a potentially deadly deficiency, called Hypovitaminosis A. Environ understands the health benefits of vitamin A, as it forms the scientific basis for the brand’s skin care products. It is for this reason that the family-run business is assisting with the supplementation at Love Lions Alive Sanctuary to mark World Lion Day, which took place on 10 August. “Vitamin A is at the heart of our business, and because we understand the wellness benefits of this vitamin, we’ve decided to show our support for this iconic South African animal of Love Lions Alive Sanctuary. We know these majestic animals have experienced untold cruelty, but we hope this act of kindness will go some way to giving them a happy and healthy life at their new home. We look forward to building a lasting relationship with this sanctuary,” says Val Carstens, chairman and CEO of Environ Skin Care. Val Carstens, chairman and CEO of Environ Skin Care
Johannesburg Johannesburg Head Head Office Office Sevens WarehouseComplex Complex Seven Warehouse 33 Bernie Kya Sands Sands Bernie Street, Street, Unit Unit 3, 3, Kya Tel. Tel. No.: No.: +27 +27 (0) (0) 11 11 708-0007 708-0007
Love Lions Alive gives lifelong care to lions who come to live out their lives in safety. The sanctuary, founded by Andi Rive, offers a place of safety, dignity and reprieve to all lions in need. “At Love Lions Alive, we work tirelessly to ensure that the lions are not living in pain and do not spend their lives looking at fences. Our cats do not exhibit stereotypical behaviours and are not depressed. This is a huge and expensive endeavour, and this is why we need the help of others to ensure lions live as beautifully and naturally as possible,” says Rive. Love Lions Alive Sanctuary approached Environ due to its expert knowledge in vitamin A for use in skin care. “Environ has chosen to show we care because we know the importance of vitamin A with our clients. Vitamin A helps to speed up healing, prevent breakouts, support the skin’s immune system and it promotes natural moisturising – which means it helps to hydrate the skin effectively, giving it a radiant glow. It also assists in promoting and maintaining a healthy dermis and epidermis. We understand the effects of neglecting this supplement as humans. Therefore, as a company we have pledged to help these majestic animals which cannot help themselves,” adds Carstens.
DurbanOffice Office Durban Tel.No.: No.:+27 +27(0)(0)8331252 9424826 9624 Tel. Cape Town Office Cape Town Office Tel. No.: +27 (0) 21 000 3121 Tel. No.: +27 (0) 78 780 9976 Port Elizabeth Office Port Tel. Elizabeth No.: +27 Office (0) 71 213 9288 Tel. No.: +27 (0) 71 213 9288 www.braganchemicals.co.za
www.braganchemicals.co.za Musa Sibanda +27 (0) 66 485 4622 musa@braganchemicals.co.za
WE IT TAKES TAKES WEDO DOWHAT WHAT IT
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2020
7
Lamesoft Balance from BASF provides the perfect balance in finished formulations
NEWS
Celebrating the remarkable life of Wally Hopton By John Knowlton and Bridget MacDonald
It’s with great sadness industry; he always believed that we have learned that that our country had as much Wally Hopton passed away to offer as any other, such was peacefully on Friday, his passion for the elevating 7 August 2020 – Wally was 92 to the local industry to years old. international status. Wally dedicated his life It is very rare for anyone to the cosmetics to dedicate their whole industry in working life to an South Africa industry, let alone and made an the majority of immeasurable their retirement contribution to years as well. This its growth and is exactly what development, Wally did and he helping it to became a bastion and become the thriving iconic figure for the industry that it is today. Wally Hopton was cosmetics industry in instrumental in Wally became a South Africa. the adoption of Coschem member in Wally was truly ‘one self-regulation in the South African 1987 and was elected of a kind’ and the South cosmetics industry president of the society African cosmetics in 1989. Thereafter, he industry today is acted as honorary treasurer so much the better for the from 1996 until 1999. He dedication and passion that was also instrumental in the he demonstrated for it, even bidding for the 1999 IFSCC in the later years of his life. A conference and was involved gentle man, with an incredibly in the Society of Cosmetic generous nature, Wally will Chemists (Coschem) for also be remembered as a many years. raconteur, who always had an Wally was a founding interesting story to tell. member of the Cosmetic, Wally you can rest in peace Toiletry & Fragrance knowing that you touched Association (CTFA) in 1994, an many lives and brought a smile organisation that was born to the faces of many people out of his vision for South whilst you were here on earth. Africa to become a major Our deepest condolences player in the global cosmetics go out to his family.
C C
Stabilise rinse-off formulations naturally with Lamesoft Balance New from BASF, Lamesoft Balance is derived from 100% natural feedstock. Acting as a natural structure enhancer in surfactant-based systems, it allows for stabilising wax-based opacifiers in rinse-off applications – even in low viscosity formulations. It also provides a pleasant and homogenous rheology in finished formulations. Due to its composition of hydrogenated castor oil and APG, Lamesoft Balance is cold processable and easy to formulate. It prevents the aggregation of small particles and reduces the sedimentation speed of wax dispersions in surfactant systems, especially in those that can be micellar thickened. Opacifying wax dispersions create a lotion-like white look in formulations and provide significant skin and hair care benefits. “The stabilisation of fine particle wax dispersions in rinse-off formulations is often very challenging,” says Dr Hans-Martin Haake, head of market development hair, body and oral care at BASF Personal Care. “With Lamesoft Balance BASF now offers a solution that is readily biodegradable and helps manufacturers of skin and hair cleansing products to stabilise their formulations without using synthetic polymers. The product is also suitable for alternative surfactant systems.” Performance and sensory tests have shown that Lamesoft Balance enhances the foam properties in body wash formulations and provides a pleasant skin feeling. In shampoo formulations containing cationic conditioning agents, it has been proven to significantly boost the hair conditioning effect. Lamesoft Balance meets the requirements of EU Ecolabel, Nordic Ecolabel and Bra Miljöval and is suitable for natural cosmetics formulated according to both the COSMOS and NATRUE standards.
Christo Coetzee Attorneys We are not just lawyers, we are part of your business and can assist you in the following areas: • Labelling and advertising compliance • Regulatory compliance • Commercial law • Contracts • Litigation
Christine van Zyl: BSc (Hons.) Biochemistry, LLB, Diploma Cosmetic Chemistry
Tel: 012 342 1930 | Email: office@christocoetzeelaw.co.za | Website: www.christocoetzeelaw.co.za 8
SEPTEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
On the Street New products on our radar
1. Safeguard the entire family
Shower to Shower has launched Germ+ Protect, , which is a new range of hygiene products. The range meets the current and future demand for products that provide consumers with protection from germs while safeguarding their family’s health. On offer are sanitisers in gel and spritser formats, both containing 70% alcohol and softening ingredients to leave hands soft and moisturised. The sanitisers are complemented by the Fresh Vitality body wash and a range of three liquid hand soaps, all pH balanced and formulated with moisturising oils, making them suitable for use by the whole family.
1
2. Two-in-one sanitiser hand cream New from SunSkin, the sanitising hand and nail cream is
formulated with triclosan to sanitise hands while the natural oils and butters work to protect the skin microbiome. Triclosan has a long-lasting and proven sanitising or sterilising effect. The product is also designed with macadamia and argan oils to
2
nourish and moisturise the skin while the mango butter and shea butter in the formulation soothe and soften the skin.
3. New baby and toddler range
Jomar Skincare, launched in 2020 by skin care expert and mother, Felicia Kotze, has just introduced its first range. The natural skin care range for babies and toddlers consists of 10 products developed with clever, well-researched combinations of ingredients. These include moisturising complexes, vitamins, antioxidants, essential oils, botanical oils and butters, all sourced from nature. A calming rescue gel, decongesting bath oil, protecting bum paste, gentle hair and
3
body wash that is soap free, and a conditioning scalp oil are some of the products included in the range.
4. Complete skin-friendly protection
With the rise in awareness and demand for mineral sunscreens, Environ is building on its range of Even More Sun Care+ products to include a powerful new physical sunscreen innovation. RAD Shield Mineral Sunscreen (SPF 15) is formulated with new generation zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, as well as the scientifically-advanced heat adaptive ingredient, Venuceane. This active helps counteract the damaging effects of infrared radiation. The sunscreen also includes antioxidants to minimise
4
free radical damage.
5. Get a healthy boost
Leading health and wellness firm, Pharma Dynamics has debuted
5
a new line of effervescent multivitamin and mineral boosters available to consumers from September. The Boost range – a line extension of the well-established efferflu-C immune booster – consists of three new products. These include Magboost, Enerboost and Dailyboost – all aimed at assisting the body’s natural ability to stay strong and healthy. For more info on how to #LiveYourBOOSTLife, visit www.boostlifesa.co.za or follow @yourboostlife on Instagram and Facebook.
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2020
9
2020/21 P&C Review and Symrise
r o P d u w ct e N Competition
P&C Review and Symrise are unveiling a re-energised New Product Competition that is relevant to all players in the South African cosmetics industry. The 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition will now be judged according to the following market segments: • Mass/Masstige • Prestige • Privé Label The entries scoring the highest in each of the three segments will all be named winners of the 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition.
Who is eligible to enter: • Local and international personal care, hair care, skin care, beauty and cosmetics brands, whose products are available in South Africa. • Brand owners, private label or house brands, manufacturers, retailers or distributors who have launched new products between 1 January 2019 and May 2021. All entries will receive confidential reports with extensive feedback from our panel of expert judges, who collectively hold over 100 years’ experience in their respective fields. Each product/range entered into the 2020/21 New Product Competition will be judged on the following criteria:
Entries are now open and will close on 1 June 2021. For more information or to enter, contact Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review on 071 359 4519 or send an email to Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za.
• Formulation design • Regulatory compliance • Packaging • Marketing incorporating social media and digital campaigns.
What’s on in 2020
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in-cosmetics Global 2020 CANCELLED
6 to 8 October
Fira di Barcelona, Spain www.in-cosmetics.com/global
Cosmetista Expo North & West Africa 17 to 20 October
OFEC, Casablanca, Morocco www.cosmetistaexpo.com/en
SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS (please tick) 1 YEAR Food Review Pharmaceutical
October
SEPTEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
2020 Virtual Science Symposium 20 to 21 October Web: https://bit.ly/2Q9hmec
31st IFSCC Congress 2020 20 to 23 October
Yokohama, Japan www.ifscc2020.com
The Cannabis VExpo – virtual expo 22 to 25 October
www.thecannabisexpo.co.zo
November
Sustainable Cosmetics Summit – EU virtual edition 2 to 5 November
www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com/Europe
CANCELLED
in-cosmetics Asia 3 to 5 November 2020
BITEC, Bangkok, Thailand asia.in-cosmetics.com
in-cosmetics Formulation Summit 11 to 12 November
London, UK summit.in-cosmetics.com
December
74th Annual Scientific Meeting & Showcase (SCC74) 7 to 11 December
New York, United States Venue: Virtual Event www.scconline.org
INDUSTRY TALK
Consumer sentiment feels the effects of COVID-19 The South African consumer confidence index for the second quarter of 2020 reveals a massive 20-point drop to 68. This is the lowest level it’s been in 15 years, according to The Conference Board Global Consumer Confidence Survey, conducted in collaboration with Nielsen. The market research firm places the results in context.
N
ielsen South Africa Connect MD, Kelly Arnold, comments: “Despite South Africa emerging from restricted living and the restarting of the economy, it’s clear that the pandemic has had an immediate and titanic impact on consumer sentiment. Looking at the results, this is the biggest drop that we have seen in a single quarter since the inception of the survey. It also makes South Africa one of the top 10 countries globally in terms of the extent of its decline.” Within the current scenario, South Africans’ immediate spending intentions have unsurprisingly declined by 12 points, with only 21% of South Africans saying now is a good or excellent time to purchase what they need or want.
South Africans’ view of their finances for the next year has also seen a significant 29-point drop to 34% and only 17% of respondents have a favourable view of their job prospects in the coming year, down by six points compared with the previous quarter.
"Health is up a substantial 15 points from the previous quarter to 25%, propelling it into the top three consumer concerns" CASH PRIORITIES AND MAJOR CONCERNS In terms of disposable income, 79% of South Africans say they have spare cash. Once they meet their essential living expenses, the highest number said they would spend their spare cash on saving (48%), followed by paying off debt, credit cards or loans (37%). A total of 27% said they would spend it on new clothes. Understandably, there was a marked drop of nine points in the number of people who would put spare cash into going on holiday compared with the previous quarter. The current environment has also caused South Africans to tighten their financial belt with 87% saying they have changed their spending to save on
Did you know? The Conference Board Global Consumer Confidence Survey is an online survey of more than 30 000 respondents across countries in Africa, Asia-Pacific, Europe, Latin America, the Middle East and North America. Age and gender quotas are used to ensure the results are representative of internet users. This provides a consistent benchmark to compare how consumer attitudes across countries are changing over time. household expenses compared with this time last year. The top action they have taken to achieve savings is cutting down on takeaway meals (69%), followed by 64% saying they are spending less on new clothes and 45% who are switching to cheaper grocery brands.
HEALTH A TOP PRIORITY Looking to the future, by far the biggest concern of South Africans over the next 12 months is the economy (48%), followed by job security (46%). Health is up a substantial 15 points from the previous quarter to 25%, propelling it into the top three consumer concerns. Elaborating on the overall South African CCI results, Arnold says: “The South African consumer is currently battling the economic fallout from COVID-19 and is feeling financially fragile, to say the least. As South Africa emerges from the lockdown, manufacturers and retailers will need to develop a deep understanding of the fundamentally altered consumer sentiment and devise new business strategies that will meet a range of their altered needs.” •
Nielsen South Africa – www.nielsen.com/za/en
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2020
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ETHNIC CARE
Addressing inflammation – a primary skin care goal for all ethnicities Treating inflammation is the first step to even skin tone. Harald van der Hoeven, director product design and development of CLR Berlin, reveals how a potent anti-inflammatory active ingredient – AnnonaSense CLR – provides skin with a means to establish a sustainable homeostatic balance, improving skin health and wellbeing.
I
Harald van der Hoeven
nterestingly, 20 th century Caucasians in Europe have desired to have darker skin. Their perception was that brown or tanned skin looks healthier and is more appealing. Many of these European consumers have gone to great lengths to achieve a desired tan. As a result, tanning studios have always enjoyed a large clientele. Among other ethnicities the trend has been to lighten skin, largely due to cultural reasons. In Europe, Africa and the Americas, this trend is still evident. Yet society is finally changing. Regardless of the colour – everyone’s skin is unique. Skin can be dark or fair, dry or
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oily and acne-prone. It can also be sensitive,
to be less attractive. The same goes for
blotchy and hyperreactive. There is not one person in the world who is 100% satisfied with his or her skin, creating a great challenge for the cosmetic industry to provide all consumers with satisfactory products that help them look and feel better.
skin that shows wrinkles. The scientific research behind these findings considered all ethnicities. The results of this research show how similar we all are.
LOOKING AS ATTRACTIVE AS POSSIBLE The appearance of the skin plays a big role in how people feel about themselves and how they are perceived by others. Attractive people are perceived to have favourable characteristics and might, by some people, even be seen as ‘superior’. With the current changing paradigms, it’s important to go into depth on what ‘attractive skin’ really represents. Contemporary science has shown that skin colour and ethnicity are clearly not determining factors. Caucasian people are not more attractive than Asian or black people, or vice versa. What makes skin attractive is its ‘evenness’. If skin has an even tone and topography, it is perceived as beautiful. Skin that is uneven in colour, blotchy or has areas of hyperpigmentation is perceived
“A daily skin care regime with a focus on skin inflammation would be extremely beneficial for skin of all ethnicities”
SEPTEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
SEARCHING FOR COMMON GROUND People with dark skin have relatively active and reactive melanocytes. In dark skin, inflammatory processes lead to an increase in melanin production. These processes take place locally and will lead to localised hyperpigmentation, compromising the evenness of skin colour. Inflammatory processes also lead to uneven colour in people with light skin. Melanocytes only play a minor role in this case. The skin does not get darker, instead it reddens and becomes blotchy. Loss of skin firmness and the development of wrinkles are clearly more pronounced in ethnicities with lighter skin. Melanin is an essential part of our body’s selfprotection system against sunlight. Here, too, inflammatory processes stand at the basis of the problem. Sunlight can damage skin cells, their molecules and organelles. This will initiate strong and pronounced inflammatory processes, including the activation of transcription factors that cause the production of enzymes, which break down collagen. A daily skin care regime with a focus on skin inflammation would be extremely beneficial for skin of all ethnicities. Evenness of skin colour is a given. It either stays even, or hyperpigmented areas, where constant inflammatory processes are the driver behind the problem, are evened out. However, a potent anti-inflammatory active ingredient is required. CLR Berlin has
ETHNIC CARE Figure 1: Assessment of skin sensitivity
Did you know? AnnonaSense CLR is derived from cherimoya fruit, which is processed and dried before extracting. Cherimoya (Annona cherimola) is one of the most esteemed fruits from the many edible species of the Annonaceae family.
developed AnnonaSense CLR (INCI: Annona Cherimola Fruit Extract) in order to provide the skin with important support to keep inflammatory processes under control. AnnonaSense CLR is available in South Africa from IMCD.
Figure 2: Assessment of skin appearance
EFFICACY STUDIES – IN VIVO ASSAYS
by reducing redness caused by scratching skin when itching.
The study involved one application of test product on 17 (for 250Hz) and 18 (for 5Hz) volunteers. Of the group, five had atopic dermatitis, three had type IV allergy, six had sensitive skin and one had diabetes type II. Skin sensitivity was determined by measuring current perception threshold (CPT) with Neurometer CPT/C (Neurotron Inc., Baltimore, USA) at 250Hz and 5Hz before and 30 minutes after application of the test product. Baseline at t=0 was set at 0%. The values are based on averages of the individual results of all the volunteers.
CONCLUSION
ASSESSMENT OF SKIN SENSITIVITY
ESSENTIAL SYSTEMS IN SKIN CARE AnnonaSense CLR potently acts on the skin’s endocannabinoid (ECS) and endovanilloid (EVS) systems. These biological systems are essential in regulating inflammatory processes in the skin. Where the activation of the EVS is largely detrimental, inducing inflammatory processes, the ECS can be considered to be its counterpart. The ECS is needed to compensate for the processes induced by the EVS. Their intimate interplay allows for the interpretation of the two systems as one, being the ECS/EVS. In a wide array of in vitro studies, AnnonaSense CLR proved to act as an endocannabinoid, an agonist for CB2 (Cannabinoid Receptor Type 2), the main receptor of the ECS in skin. Inflammatory processes were potently diminished, which was further proven in different in vivo studies. Below we have highlighted two studies, assessing the effect of AnnonaSense CLR on skin sensitivity and appearance, two important factors for ethnic skin care.
RESULTS The 250Hz experiment showed that the formulation with AnnonaSense CLR outperformed the corresponding placebo formulation by more than 35%. The 5Hz experiment showed even stronger results – the formulation with AnnonaSense CLR performed more than 60% better than the placebo formulation (see Figure 1). These results show that AnnonaSense CLR clearly makes skin less sensitive.
SKIN APPEARANCE In a double-blind test, 22 volunteers tested a formulation with AnnonaSense CLR and 20 tested a placebo formulation. Evenness of skin colour was scored at t=0 and after 17 days of applying the test products twice a day. Baseline at t=0 was set at 0%.
Where the placebo formulation reduced skin redness by 25%, the corresponding formulation containing AnnonaSense CLR clearly outperformed the placebo formulation by reducing unevenness of skin colour by more than 36% (see Figure 2).
More than seven billion people inhabit the Earth, and we all feel the need to look attractive. Historically people have always wanted to change the colour of their skin. Depending on ethnicity, people desire either darker or lighter skin. The skin lightening and tanning skin care segments have profited from the demand. The modern consumer wants even skin colour and an overall even skin appearance. This goes for all ethnicities. For the skin care industry, it is of great importance to understand the science behind these skin qualities. In this context, inflammation is a very important topic on which to focus. Inflammatory processes are the driver behind the loss of evenness of skin colour and appearance. A daily skin care regime addressing this topic will be of great benefit to the consumer. AnnonaSense CLR is a natural and potent active ingredient for skin care products formulated to address inflammatory concerns. It addresses the skin’s own endocannabinoid system, potently eliminating inflammation and supporting skin health. It also makes skin less reactive and has been proven to improve skin’s appearance. •
RESULTS In this study, 17 days of application of the test product showed that the formulation with AnnonaSense CLR improved skin appearance
CLR Berlin – www.clr-berlin.com IMCD – www.imcdgroup.com/en
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ETHNIC CARE / SPONSORED CONTENT
Naturally beautiful solutions from Innospec
If you’re interested in exploring mild and natural formulations for the South African market, Innospec, a technology partner of AECI Specialty Chemicals, offers an impressive portfolio of ingredients and formulation solutions. These can be used to design effective, mild cleansing products skin and hair care applications.
O
ver the past 10 years, the sulfate-free trend has taken the personal and beauty care market by storm. In Middle East and Africa, launches with sulfate-free claims more than doubled from 2016 to 2018. This number increased again in 2019, with over 320 products launched claiming sulfate-free on pack.1 Consumers who used to treat their hair with chemicals in order to straighten it are now assuming their natural style. Following this movement, brands are launching hair care products that help not only consumers care for their natural Afro hair, but also help consumers transition to natural hair. Within the ethnic hair care category, developing products with relevant claims is a good way to address the specific concerns of consumers with curly or textured hair. It is also good to highlight the extra care required for braids and weaves or hair prone to frizz. In terms of products, the solutions available can be leave-in products that moisturise the hair throughout the day or overnight.
INNOVATIVE, MILD INGREDIENTS With the desire to embrace more natural, beautiful hair, high-performing, sulphate-free products are key for
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Formulation guide: >95% Naturally Derived Pearlised Shampoo (AC303a) Phase
INCI
A
Aqua Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Ingredient
q.s. ACTIVSOFT C-17
Citric Acid
0.30 Trace
B
Decyl Glucoside (and) Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
PUREACT 138
C
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
PUREACT WS Conc
2.00
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
PUREACT I-85EC
4.00
Glycol Cetearate
EMPICOL® EGMS
2.50
D
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
EMPIGEN® BS/FA
10.00
E
Sodium Benzoate
Microcare NB
0.50
Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin
Euxyl PE9010
0.50
F
Fragrance
Chancer
0.55
G
Citric Acid (50% w/w)
Table 1: An impressive >95% naturally derived, pearlised shampoo featuring Innospec’s mild surfactants, Pureact 138 and Pureact I-85EC. The combination of complementary surfactants used in this system provides an elegant, creamy lather. Activsoft C-17 and Pureact 138 impart a soft, conditioning after-feel
South African consumers who seek out solutions to target anti-frizz with mild ingredients. Sulfatefree products are also ideal to help reduce the effects of environmental aggressors on hair. For hair care in particular, the focus is on naturally derived products that deliver a clean feel, without stripping the hair of natural oils and sealing maximum moisture into hair.
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% w/w
15.00
q.s.
ETHNIC CARE / SPONSORED CONTENT
ETHNIC SKIN AND HAIR INGREDIENTS FOCUS
Formulation guide: Condition & Go Leave-On Hair Treatment (EV/AT/2644-159C) Phase
INCI
A
Aqua
Ingredient
q.s. to 100
Cetearyl Alcohol
• Pureact 138 is a high concentration 100% naturally derived surfactant blend, to provide exceptional mildness and conditioning to skin and hair. It is cold process, easy to handle and COSMOS approved. • Pureact WS Conc is a highly concentrated taurate surfactant supplied as a paste to provide foaming in the presence of oils and sebum, and a mixed foam profile with small and large bubbles. • Pureact I-85EC is a high active isethionate surfactant to provide tight creamy, dense foam and fast foam generation. • Empigen® BS/FA is a mild, sulfate-free surfactant formulated to create creamy, luxurious foam.
% w/w
LAUREX® CS
3.00
Ceteareth-25
1.00
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine B
Citric Acid
C
Glycerin
D
EMPIGEN® S18
1.00 to pH 4.5 0.5
Panthenol
DL-Pathenol
0.10
Hydrolysed Wheat Protein
AC Wheat Hydrolysate PF40%
0.40
Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil
Linseed Oil
0.10
Fragrance
Monoi 107714
q.s.
Tocopheryl Acetate
Vitamine E Acetate
0.10
Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenoxyethanol
Microcare PHG
q.s.
Table 2: This leave-on hair conditioner revolutionises the hair care routine thanks to its convenient-to-use spray format. The product saves time and water and is simple and quick to use. It is designed with Empigen® S18, a silicone-free hair conditioning agent that helps provide the right product consistency for an efficient, fine spray pattern. The agent also gives an excellent conditioning effect at minimum levels compared to other traditional ingredients
Formulation guide: Naked & Natural Vegan Cleansing Bar (H0111) Phase
INCI
Ingredient
A
Sodium Methyl Lauroyl Taurate
PUREACT TR-L90
B
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
EMPIGEN® BS/FA
Aqua
C
% w/w 92.80 3.00 q.s. to 100
Fragrance
Rhubarb and Rose
0.30
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
ACTIVSOFT CD
0.30
Table 3: This vegan bar is great for looking after hair and skin as it does not contain sulfates or preservatives. The small, compact and easy-to-use bar is great for on-the-go applications. It contributes to efforts to protect the environment, with no plastic, no packaging, less water and no animal-derived ingredients. The bar is 80% naturally derived according to ISO 16128, making it perfect for todays’ consumers, and it is easy for formulators to create as it is a cold processable bar, using less energy to manufacture and a small amount of ingredients
Did you know? Innospec is a market leader in sulfatefree and mild surfactants. Its global team has the technical expertise to formulate effective formulations with ideas to inspire. Innospec knows which ingredients work well together, helping brands create sustainable, naturally derived, mild cleansing products.
Innospec’s sulphate-free surfactant blend, PUREACT 138 is 100% naturally derived, very mild combination of surfactants for use in shampoo, face and body cleansers. This blend is COSMOS approved, provides excellent foam and is easy to use on its own or with other surfactants. PUREACT 138 provides endless opportunities in ethnic hair and skin care and is a perfect choice for formulators.
Innospec’s conditioning agent, EMPIGEN® S18 is a quat-free, siliconefree hair conditioning agent that minimises build-up while providing conditioning and an antistatic effect. It can also be used as a formulation viscosity builder. Tables 1, 2 and 3 feature formulations from Innospec designed a range of Innospec ingredients to provide mild cleansing for hair and body applications, as well as conditioning for hair. • REFERENCE: 1. Source: Mintel, GNPD 2020
Tel: +27 (0)79 372 0761 E-mail: Charmaine.dupreez@aeciworld.com Website: www.innospecinc.com
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2020
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ETHNIC CARE
Cutting-edge anti-ageing range formulated for African women Ethnic women with darker-hued skin often struggle with pigmentation, dark spots and uneven skin tone as they age. Justine has developed a tailor-made solution called A-Firm Brightening, which addresses these ageing concerns.
A
-Firm Brightening is clinically proven to even skin tone, reduce the appearance of blemishes and combat uneven skin tone. In addition to its even tone benefits, A-Firm Brightening also addresses other ageing concerns, such as fine lines and loss of volume – which leads to sagging and hallow skin. This exciting range promises to provide firmer results with a matte finish.
Did you know? In 1973, Justine was born with the launch of its iconic tissue oil, formulated with a combination of efficacious natural oils to deliver superior skincare results. The success of this formula became the blueprint for Justine to expand its product line into other beauty and personal care products, using a combination of science and nature to meet consumers’ unique skincare needs.
The range combines cutting-edge skin brightening and firming technology with 10 botanical actives, including wheatgerm extract, argan oil, rice bran oil, sunflower seed extract, neem seed extract, grape extract, grape seed extract, mulberry extract, skullcap root extract and Saxifraga sarmentosa , commonly known as strawberry geranium. This powerful combination of botanical actives has numerous anti-ageing benefits, which also helps to maintain oil control and increase skin’s elasticity. “The development of A-Firm Brightening bears testimony to our ongoing quest to understand and deliver in line with the diverse needs of our consumers, bringing customised products that cater to the unique challenges they face. A-Firm Brightening is a game changer that will help to address the ageing concerns of our dark-skinned customers who have been seeking an effective and clinically proven solution that will address their skincare needs. We believe that this solution will be a must-have product for our customers, and it will be an integral part of their daily skin care routine,” says Momin Hukamdad, Justine executive marketing director.
CLINICALLY PROVEN TO COMBAT PIGMENTATION Uneven skin tone is caused by a number of factors. A prevalent factor in South Africa’s warm climate is exposure to sunlight, which triggers the over production of melanin resulting in the appearance of brown spots and uneven skin. Emissions from traffic-
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ETHNIC CARE
related air pollution which penetrate the skin can also lead to the formation of brown spots. The darkening of the skin may further be exacerbated by hormonal factors, such as the use of contraception or as a result of pregnancy. Lastly, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which is the darkening of the skin as result of scarring, can be caused by acne lesions or skin injury, leading to the appearance of uneven skin tone.
"A-Firm Brightening is a game changer that will help to address the ageing concerns of our dark-skinned customers"
The anti-ageing results include decreased dark circles under the eyes, improved skin texture and a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles in just 14 days, with an overall improvement in even skin tone in seven days.
AGAINST ANIMAL TESTING
A-Firm Brightening has been clinically proven to decrease the appearance of pigmentation and dark spots in as little as three days when using the hero product of the range, the A-Firm Brightening even tone serum. When using the entire range, which includes day and night creams, an eye cream and the serum, consumers can expect great results and so many benefits.
Hukamdad reaffirmed Justine’s longstanding opposition to testing its products or ingredients on animals to substantiate their safety. “We are the first global company to stop all animal testing, anywhere in the world,” she says. “Respect for animal welfare forms a cornerstone of our product safety policy. Justine is a responsible and caring corporate citizen that adheres to strict ethical standards. Animal welfare has always been a key focus of Justine’s corporate responsibility efforts, and in recognition of this, Justine received permission to display the FRAME bunny logo on its websites, brochures and packaging,” Hukamdad concludes. •
Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz
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ETHNIC CARE
A holistic approach to caring for ethnic skin
The secret to flawless African skin is not lightening treatments that change the complexion, but rather addressing inflammation and controlling the triggers. Millchem offers a basket of proven skin care actives from Ashland’s Vincience biofunctionals portfolio, which takes a holistic approach to preserving the beauty of ethnic skin. By Abby Vorster
I
ncreased sebum, acne and dryness are all concerns of dark skin tones and can lead to skin irritation. This is one of the root causes of pigmentation, which in turn leads to uneven skin tone. “By adopting a holistic approach to care for ethnic skin, we can reduce inflammation, control sebum and improve moisturisation; thereby limiting irritation,” says Giulio Pozzobon, national sales manager of Millchem.
PROTECT AND PURIFY Oxygenated Glycerol Triesters D biofunctional is clinically shown to help provide comfort and soothing properties in skin care applications. This in combination with Vital ET, a unique biofunctional complex of a vitamin E derivative
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designed for sensitive skin, can help reduce the appearance of redness and swelling on skin. For skin protection, Pozzobon recommends Elixiance, a natural and sustainable Peruvian Schinus molle extract with anti-pollution, skinpurifying and age-perfecting benefits. It is rich in powerful bioavailable polyphenols such as quercitrin and miquelianin and demonstrates strong activity to support the look of beautiful skin. Elixiance is clinically tested to help reduce sebum at the skin surface, keep skin fresh and hydrated and protect cells against air pollution.
re-establishing the physiological balance in acne-prone skin. 10-HAD, the target molecule of Acnacidol BG, is a synthetic bio-mimetic version of a hydroxyl acid naturally present in royal jelly. In clinical studies, Acnacidol BG provided excellent results for sebo-regulation. “With these biofunctionals from Ashland, formulators can design skin care solutions to enhance the natural beauty of ethnic skin. By controlling and addressing concerns like sebum production and pollution protection, we can address the primary need of even-tone skin,” Pozzobon concludes. •
CLEANSE AND CONTROL It’s also important to control sebum production without drying out the skin. Acnacidol BG is a unique active ingredient aimed at
SEPTEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Ashland – www.ashland.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za
ETHNIC CARE
Inspiring more in skin brightening
Even tone is no longer about lightening the colour of the skin but more about addressing concerns of skin irritation to prevent or reduce dark spots. Based on its expertise in sensitive skin, Symrise has studied the role of inflammation in hyperpigmentation processes and developed an original and safe synergistic solution ideal for sensitive skin.
E
ven tone skin is a key concern for most consumers worldwide. According to a Cosmetic Ingredients consumer study conducted by Symrise in 19 countries, 76% of consumers feel bad when their skin tone is uneven, 82% believe hyperpigmentation is a sign of ageing skin and 84% would like to have a brighter skin. To address these concerns in a safe and synergistic way, Symrise has developed SymWhite Plus, a powerful brightening active ingredient complex that combines the benefits of SymWhite 377, a powerful brightening molecule, and Dragosantol 100, which is based on the potent soothing agent bisabolol.
HOW IT WORKS This smooth skin brightening complex from Symrise works in two ways. Firstly, it visibly lightens the skin by inhibiting tyrosinase, acting on the source of pigmentation. Secondly, it offers instant relief and a uniform complexion by reducing redness/inflammation, providing an instant soothing effect while visibly erasing dark spots induced by irritation factors. Its efficacy has been confirmed in numerous tests, which show 4% of SymWhite Plus in a formulation brightens the complexion and fades dark spots in just one month.
Did you know? SymWhite Plus significantly decreases melanin content. The synergy between SymWhite 377 and Dragosantol 100 promotes enhanced efficacy with a reduced dosage of the active ingredient, allowing the formulator to do more with less. SymWhite Plus is ideal for use in face and body care products, anti-dark and age spot treatments, BB and CC creams, deodorants and depilatories. • Symrise – www.symrise.com
Skin Actives
EXPLORING BIO-INTELLIGENCE FOR ADAPTIVE BEAUTY
Cutting-edge, efficacious and substantiated ingredients that make a difference in the world of beauty care. Explore our Skin Actives in the areas of well aging, exposome, skin pigmentation and soothing, cooling and warming, moisturization and oily skin. Versatile, safe and designed to work in harmony with the natural micro-language of the skin.
COSMETIC INGREDIENTS BY SYMRISE always inspiring more ... www.symselect.com I www.symrise.com Follow us on Instagram @symrise.ci
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ETHNIC CARE
Discover new innovations for the African market With an increasing global population, more and more multicultural skin and hair types are appearing, requiring suitable skin, hair and colour cosmetic products. With these developments in mind, Martina Heldermann, technical director of KahlWax, explores new opportunities in ethnic hair and skin care.
N
ew formulation concepts are entering the ethnic beauty care market – some have been extremely successful like low poo hair products. These consist of co-washing formulations with a very low level of surfactants. As a result, formulators and marketing specialists are keen to receive more inspiration for this growing segment to reach new consumers, which are inclined to buy and have enough spending power. In emerging markets in Latin America and Africa, inclined consumers are willing to invest in products that target their specific needs. For example, 30% of all Brazilian consumers would pay more for a hair product that offers protection against UVinduced damage.
CATERING TO NEW NEEDS The biggest challenges when it comes to ethnic beauty are research and development. Catering to a much broader range of hair and skin types, with different characteristics, requires many more versions of a formulation than a one-size-fits-all offering. Darker skin types are better adapted to the sun, but when exposed to a cold, dry climate the skin loses its protective hydrolipidic film and its natural radiance, often becoming dull and greyish. Special care for a particularly sensitive skin is necessary, including moisturising, sebum-controlling and smoothing products. Where hair is regularly straightened, tightly braided or styled into dreadlocks, it can become fragile and break easily. The trend towards natural hair is gaining momentum, resulting in increased demand for anti-
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"Myrica fruit wax fits perfectly into the natural hair care and ethnic beauty segment" frizz, anti-shrinkage and edge-control hair care products. While the natural hair movement in the US accounts for a 19% drop in relaxer sales (between 2013 and 2015), relaxers still make up the majority of the category in South Africa. Yet with the trend towards natural hair, early adopters and big brands in South Africa are moving quickly to fill product gaps that currently exist.
HIGH-QUALITY NATURAL WAX Myrica fruit wax fits perfectly into the natural hair care and ethnic beauty segment as it boosts the performance of low poo products and gives edge control formulations the ideal hardness. Used in oil-control formulations, it supports a dry and velvet feel and provides a silky matte effect. It is a unique wax because it doesn’t have double bonds. Although it has a low melting point of 45°C to 55°C, it has extraordinary hardness. This combination of properties gives Myrica fruit wax exceptionally good spreadability in cosmetic formulations. It also reduces the stickiness
of emulsions and cream gels, gives hair styling products excellent holding properties and, when used in hair conditioners, it improves combability.
Martina Heldermann
THE BEAUTY OF HAIR OILS Hair oils detangle, help strengthen against breakage and dramatically reduce frizz. They support the structural intactness of hair fibres and improve manageability. For even more functionality, they can contain UVA/UVB filters or heat styling protection agents. Hair oils define the strands making them ideal for curly hair products. Depending on the hair type and use level, they can also add gloss or give a wet look. A natural film former is an ideal functional ingredient for a hair oil as it boosts the oil’s activity. KahlWax uses a natural resin as a film former which is obtained by extraction of pine wood from North American Araucaria genera trees. The resin is carefully purified and blended with an emollient resulting in a clear, golden yellow liquid with a syrupy viscosity. While acting as a film former and enhancing adhesion on hair, it forms a protective layer that minimises the impact of moisture, keeps the hair style in shape and adds gloss.
SUPERIOR GLOSS PERFORMANCE Using a glossmeter, KahlWax measured how Araucaria resin blended with octyldodecanol influences hair gloss. A hair oil formulation containing 15% of the film former was applied on hair tresses and defined skin areas, after which the gloss value was determined. The gloss value was then compared to a hair oil formulated with 15% high viscous dimethicone instead of the film former. The results show Araucaria resin with octyldodecanol significantly increases the gloss of formulations on hair and skin. At a use level of 15%, it reduces spreading yet
ETHNIC CARE
does not negatively influence the sensorial properties of the formula. The hair oil still feels very dry, is easy to apply as it does not drip and, while it is non-sticky, it’s also highly substantial. When applied on curls, it improves definition and significantly reduces frizz. KahlResin 5723 is suitable for use in a variety of applications. It can be used in skin, sun and hair care products; decorative cosmetics and hair foams and styling products like the de-frizzing hair cream formulation featured in Table 1. Savannah Fine Chemicals is the approved South African distributor of ingredients and formulation technologies from KahlWax. • Myrica fruit wax is derived from white waxy fruit peels of berries on the Myrica Pubescens tree
Table 1: Frizz dismiss hair cream (HC-LEN-008-01) Phase
A
B
C
D
Ingredients
INCI
% by weight
Water
Aqua
Propylene Glycol
Propylene Glycol
3.50
Dermofeel PA-3
Sodium Phytate, Aqua, Alcohol
0.20
Lecigel
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Lecithin
1.70
Stearic Acid
Stearic Acid
1.00
Lanette 22
Behenyl Alcohol
1.50
Emolid CC
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
3.00
Dermofeel BGC
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
2.00
KahlResin 5723 MB Araucaria + Octyldodecanol
Glyceryl Rosinate, Octyldodecanol
1.80
KahlWax 6237 Rapeseed
Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil
2.00
Vitamin F Forte
Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid
1.00
Licorice V50 597
Parfum
0.10
ad 100
Preservative
KahlWax – www.kahlwax.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
q.s.
This de-frizzing hair cream is ideal for smoother, hydrated strands. Not only does the light emulsion instantly improve hair’s texture, the Araucaria resin also leaves a flexible film for long-lasting effects
®
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ETHNIC CARE
A handful of goodness that’s highly concentrated
Soap bars are regaining popularity but in a somewhat different guise. As the world attempts to reduce its reliance on plastics, products packaged in less plastic and formulated with ingredients that are less harmful to the environment are finding their way onto shelves.
I
t is believed that up to 80 billion plastic bottles from shampoo and conditioner products enter the world’s oceans every year. As a result, there is growing pressure for the personal care industry to find ways to reduce the use of plastic. In fact, the Huffington Post has reported that the carbon footprint for liquid soaps is 25% more than that of bar soaps. This accounts for the growing trend in shampoos and conditioners in solid formats. Whilst the concept may seem fairly novel, based on the fact that traditional shampoos and conditioners have dominated the market, shampoo and conditioning bars have always been popular with backpackers and minimalist travellers because it’s easy to use and take up much less space than bottles. Brands like Lush and Ethique have been at the forefront of this trend, with their focus on zero waste and natural ingredients. According to Chemgrit Cosmetics, which
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sources and supplies ingredients for solid shampoos and conditioners, the growing interest in sustainable products and increasing awareness of resourcefriendly technologies have significantly contributed to the greater use of waterfree formulations.
A SOLID OUTLOOK BASF Care Creations, represented in Southern Africa by Chemgrit Cosmetics, recently presented a collection of products, including an easy foaming shampoo and solid conditioners. The presentation highlights the importance of choosing the right ingredients for your formulation as this is essential to obtain the same properties and outcomes as conventional, diluted personal care products. To produce a good-quality product in a solid format, BASF Care Creations has also addressed many of the concerns that made soap bars less popular in the past, including that they were messy, crumbly and dried out skin and hair.
SEPTEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Aside from solid shampoos, the market for solid conditioners is also growing. BASF has formulated solid conditioners that offer excellent conditioning effects with soft, creamy textures. These formulations include key ingredients such as Dehyquart F 75 T, a mild and effective conditioning agent; and Dehyquart A-CA, an effective aqueous, liquid conditioning agent that can be used in many different formats. See Table 1 for an example.
VEGAN AND NATURAL Aside from the use of plastic, BASF has also identified the increasing awareness for environmentally friendly, 100% ecological products as well as the demand for vegan-friendly options. In response, it has designed a formulation that conforms to the COSMOS standard for natural cosmetics. This formula for solid nxatural conditioners contains Plantaquat NC and Dehyquart GuarHP and delivers excellent conditioning effects. Plantaquat NC is a high-performance compound developed for hair conditioning products which offers very good conditioning, volume and hairbreakage protection. Dehyquart GuarHP is a guar flour-based conditioning polymer for rinse-off applications like shampoos, hair treatments and body cleansing.
ETHNIC CARE Table 1: Solid Conditioner with blue and white layers (BASF) Phase
A
B
C D
Ingredients
INCI
Dehyquart F 75 T
Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol
25.00
Lanette O
Cetearyl Alcohol
32.30
Cutina HR Powder
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
20.00
Dehyquart A-CA
Cetrimonium Chloride
10.00
Glycerin
Glycerin
3.00
Water, demin.
Aqua
2.00
Sodium Benzoate
Sodium Benzoate
0.50
Citric Acid
Citric Acid
1.00
Cetiol Ultimate
Undecane, Tridecane
5.00
Gemtone Sapphire G011
Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Ferric Ferrocyanide, Carmine
0.20
Perfume
Parfum
1.00
ECONOMICAL AND LONG-LASTING Film forming represents the primary function of conditioning products, with improved manageability of hair
% by weight
through easier detangling and grooming. In comparative tests, BASF’s solid conditioners performed significantly better than other products both in terms
"Aside from solid shampoos, the market for solid conditioners is also growing" of wet and dry combing performance requiring far less combing effort after use. Solid conditioners, like their shampoo counterparts, also present an economic advantage compared to classic liquid formats in that whilst they are small, they are very concentrated and last longer. Solid bars can last from two to five times longer than liquid products. •
BASF Care Creations – www.carecreations.basf.com Chemgrit Cosmetics – www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za
www.o6southafrica.com
We've got a sense for Fragrance and Taste
And a o6th sense for what your customers want for both. We keep an eye on changes in customer expectations, while watching global markets in order to anticipate the upcoming fragrance and taste trends. With an extensive and ever growing fragrance and taste offering, we're the preferred partner for what your product should taste or smell like. 011 234 8399 EAST AFRICA: richard@o6southafrica.com SOUTH AFRICA: adam@o6southafrica.com & mcqueen@o6southafrica.com
SMALL PACK DIVISION
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2020
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HOME CARE AND I&I
Safe, transparent and sustainable fragrance solutions After starting as a food movement, the desire for ‘clean’ products manifested in beauty and personal care before finally arriving in home care. The movement in home care is as a result of consumers realising that the factors – what’s good for health is also good for the environment – intertwine.
H
ome care has always had an association with harshness and chemicals, yet consumers across the globe want brands to be more ethical and environmentally responsible. Enter the ‘clean’ movement, which, just like clean beauty, calls for safe, transparent and sustainable fragrance solutions in the home care category. Through its Act For Good platform, Symrise offers safe, transparent and sustainable home care fragrance solutions. Smart and mindful scent design, with do-good ingredients (relaxing, energising, etc), simpler formulations and a patented sustainability score card, are the cornerstones of Symrise’s approach to this movement.
"Symcap offers essential sensorial benefits and long-lasting scent impressions throughout the day" ENCAPSULATION TECHNOLOGY Symrise’s longstanding grasp of cross-cultural consumer desires and lifestyles, plus superior sourcing strategies for unique raw materials, have created exciting sensory experiences for both fabric and home care applications.
Combined with proprietary technologies involving innovative delivery systems such as encapsulation and release technology, fabrics become softer, cleaner and more sensorial with lingering fresh-smelling scents. Symcap, the fragrance encapsulation system from Symrise, offers essential sensorial benefits and long-lasting scent impressions throughout the day. Activated by friction and motion during the day, the fragrance is released when it is most needed. It captures the feeling and scents of just-washed clothes for longer. • Symrise – www.symrise.com
2020/2021
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SEPTEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
World Premiere
Lasting haircare scent tailor-made for African hair After 3 years of research to determine the adherence of fragrance raw materials on natural & on chemically straightened African hair, Symrise, one of the leading Fragrance houses, has created a new way of developing bespoke lasting haircare fragrances, totally adapted to African hair.
ÂŤThis shows our commitment towards making the scent experience meaningful for consumers, as well as deIivering fragrance performance for African & ethnic hairÂť Fabien Calvet, Global Category Leader at Symrise
To discover more, please contact Symrise / symrise.com
HOME CARE AND I&I
Chemical disinfectants New amendments provide increased consumer protection The COVID-19 pandemic has brought with it a dramatic increase in the demand for disinfectants to help mitigate the spread of the virus. Now, more than ever, the need for safe disinfecting products, which do not pose unnecessary risk to consumers, is critical.
I
n 2017, the Department of Trade and Industry published an Amendment of the Compulsory Specification for
other microorganisms, like viruses, spores and fungi,” she says.
“All products must be tested for effectiveness against the various categories of microorganisms. Testing
Chemical Disinfectants (VC 8054), which
LABELLING REQUIREMENTS
requirements for chemical disinfectants
comes into effect in October 2020.
These amendments, which were first
used in industrial, food, domestic and
contemplated as far back as 2015,
institutional areas will be different to
testing and labelling of chemical
include strict rules for the labelling
disinfectants. It also means that
the tests for use in the medical area,”
of products.
she comments.
This legislation includes compulsory
consumers can now be satisfied that
O’Reilly explains that the label or
chemical disinfectants for sale in South
package insert must contain all relevant
Africa must comply with the minimum
information, including clearly stating
safety requirements and must be registered with the National Regulator for Compulsory Specifications (NRCS). Lee O’Reilly, quality systems internal auditor at Industroclean, an industrial cleaning product manufacturer, explains that these regulations apply to chemical disinfectants that are used on hard surfaces in the industrial, food, domestic and health industries to kill
the microorganisms that the product is effective against and clear instructions on how the product should be used. All labels must also include warnings; handling and storage information; compatibility with other substances; and the first aid measures to be taken for different levels of contact, e.g. skin irritation, in eyes, or if swallowed.
microorganisms. They do not apply to products for use on people or animals. O’Reilly adds that the new amendments include specifications for several types of micro-oganisms. “Whereas the previous regulations focused mostly on those chemical disinfectants that kill bacteria, the new
BUILDING CONSUMER CONFIDENCE With these new regulations, consumers can rest assured that the chemical disinfectant they purchase has been tested, is within its expiry date and is safe to use – when used as indicated on the label. However, O’Reilly cautions that there are many non-compliant products on the market that range from coloured water to hazardous substances, which can pose a serious threat to the environment and human lives alike. “The new amendments have been put in place to safeguard the environment and protect consumers. Buying cheap, unregistered disinfectants may be tempting,
regulations bring us in line with European
but these can cause serious health
standards and include specifications for
conditions, including lung conditions, skin peeling and allergic reactions,”
"The new amendments have been put in place to safeguard the environment and protect consumers” 28
SEPTEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
she concludes. •
As can be seen on the top righthand corner of the label on this product, all registered products will have a registration number on their labels, which could be the following: Act29GNR529/XXXXXX/XXX/XXXX; Act5GNR529/XXXXXX/XXX/XXXX or NRCS/8054/XXXXXX/XXX
Industroclean – www.industroclean.co.za
HOME CARE AND I&I
Ecolabel clarity at your fingertips
Clariant is offering the industrial cleaning and home-care segment fast and free online access to its new ecolabel guidance tool. The tool helps formulators understand the environmental compatibility and sustainability features of the company’s extensive range of formulation ingredients.
W
ith rising consumer interest in more environmentallyfriendly products in categories like dishwashing, laundry and hard surface cleaning, brands are keen to display relevant ecolabels on their products while offering increased transparency, which provides greater guidance to their customers. However, the proliferation in ethical labelling schemes can lead to added complexity when it comes to selecting ingredients for reformulating or creating new ecofriendly cleaning products. “To ease some of the confusion around ecolabels, Clariant now offers formulators of home care and industrial cleaning products a quick and convenient web-based tool for determining the specific label or labels with which each listed product complies. This is backed by clear information on other important aspects such as RCI, plant origin etc. Having this information readily available and just a click away should make it simpler to select ingredients while supporting customers’ needs for transparency,” comments Ralf Zerrer, head of strategic marketing and innovation at Clariant.
EASY TO USE AND RELEVANT The new industrial and home-care ecolabel guidance tool will be updated regularly to support customers with accurate and relevant information
on new products and ecolabel developments. Clariant currently features 100 ingredients on the tool, each one linked to relevant labels as well as in-depth technical and sustainability-related data. Background information on the individual ecolabels is also provided, such as their field of application and criteria. Users can filter searches by product function, ecolabel and RCI and EWG score in order to identify the most relevant ingredients for their particular requirements. For example, laundry detergent manufacturers looking for a Nordic Swan-compatible soil release polymer will be directed to the market’s first bio-based option, new TexCare SRN 260 Life. This ingredient offers best-in-class
"Users can filter searches by product function, ecolabel and RCI and EWG score in order to identify the most relevant ingredients for their particular requirements”
Did you know? The regulatory and ecolabel guidance tool links Clariant’s industrial and homecare ingredients to the most relevant labels for household formulations. Thanks to this tool, Clariant empowers customers to make smarter choices for their products by identifying the ingredients that best match their regulatory, ethical and environmental requirements. Simply select a product function, the required label, Renewable Carbon Index (RCI) and EWG score to find your list of recommended ingredients. Visit https://bit.ly/3fRxL1j to access the tool.
fibre protection against dirt as well as outstanding sustainability benefits. Should you need a Halal-certified amphoteric surfactant, you’ll be directed to a few options, including Genaminox CSL. This surfactant is stable against hydrogen peroxide, chlorine bleach and strong alkaline and acidic conditions. It has excellent viscosity-adjusting properties and is especially suitable for toilet cleaners. GlucoPure Foam is another option. This sugar surfactant of the glucamide family offers a perfect combination of sustainability and performance for hand dishwashing liquid detergents, with the additional benefits of no aqua toxicity labelling and skin mildness. •
Clariant – www.clariant.com
Clariant launches new ecolabel guidance tool for industrial cleaning and homecare customers
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2020
29
COMPANY FOCUS
Spanish fragrance & flavours group expands in Africa Iberchem South Africa is regrouping to combine the activity of Iberchem (fragrances), Scentium (flavours) and Versachem (colourants and seasonings). This combined commercial office in South Africa is set to boost the company’s already strong presence in the country while catapulting its expansion in East and West Africa. By Abby Vorster Iberchem, Scentium and Versachem have been brought together under the name of Iberchem South Africa
"When it comes to flavours and fragrances, South Africa is a vibrant market that has always been at the forefront of trends”
T
he Iberchem Group recently announced it will expand its presence in the South African market by bringing together the
teams of Iberchem, Scentium and Versachem under the name of Iberchem South Africa. The announcement comes two years after the group acquired 70% of Versachem, a company specialising in food colourants and seasonings. The group recently bought the remaining 30%, thereby fully integrating Versachem’s activity into its portfolio. All three divisions will be temporarily accommodated in Versachem’s current offices in Pretoria until a new location can be found.
PROXIMITY AND FLEXIBILITY IN FOCUS “Since the Iberchem Group first set foot in South Africa in the early 2000s, our activity has been growing steadily,” says Ramón Fernández, CEO of Iberchem Group. “The moment had come to establish ourselves permanently in the market
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Did you know? Iberchem’s foundation is deeply rooted in Africa. Although the group’s headquarters are based in Spain, where the business was established over 35 years ago, its very first customer was based in Africa.
to further improve our customers’ experience. Proximity is a key element in our service offering. We strive to be as close as possible to our clients, which means they benefit from more agility when developing their product and from faster delivery times.” With its local stock holding and application labs for the personal care and food and beverage industries, Iberchem South Africa is geared to supply customers on short notice. This agility is highly unique to the group considering its size on a global scale.
DEVELOPING LOCAL TALENT Iberchem South Africa will be managed by Quentin Questiaux, who joined the company in May. Questiaux is well-known in the African market, with a proven track record in the flavour and fragrance industry. In the coming months, Iberchem South Africa will also gradually welcome new members to both Iberchem and Scentium. Creating jobs for local talent is key to the establishment of the group in South Africa. The company is exploring various learnership programmes with practical work experience for local perfumers and food technologists while focusing on employing and empowering individuals from previouslydisadvantaged backgrounds. “When it comes to flavours and fragrances, South Africa is a vibrant market that has always been at the forefront of trends,”
SEPTEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Questiaux comments. “This is why we are building a team that is both dynamic and qualified in order to fulfil the country’s standards. Leveraging what has already been accomplished on the market, I’m highly enthusiastic and optimistic about the future of this new branch.”
INNOVATIVE YET COST-EFFECTIVE Iberchem South Africa’s now permanent presence in the country brings exciting prospects for the fragrance and personal care industries. Its cost-effective technologies for these markets are both environmentally-friendly and proven safe. The local office also brings with it a purchasing power that is very much needed as a result of economic challenges and the weakening rand. Quentin Questiaux is “We are here well-known in the African market, with a proven track permanently to supply record in the flavour and innovative yet costfragrance industry effective technologies for fine fragrances; as well as air, home, personal and fabric care applications,” says Questiaux. “We also have an exciting programme that supports entrepreneurs in selling and distributing fragrances – which shows our commitment to the country and to empowering local people.” • Iberchem South Africa – www.iberchem.com
Your personal care provider, We know what you want Specialised
Natural
Bioferments
Oils
Botanical Extracts
Butters
Delivery systems Enzymes
HAIR CARE
Lanolin
Glycerine
Hemp butter
Functional Actives Silicones
IPM
Emollients
SKIN CARE
CAPB Seaweed
No animal testing
EmulsiďŹ ers
Vegan
Innovative Active Ingredients Organic & Ecocert approved materials
BODY CARE
Abyssinian Jamaican Black Castor oil Soya Bean oil
D-Panthenol
Vitamin E SPA CARE
Shea butter
Vanilla butter Mango butter
info@esp-sa.co.za 010 595 9690 www.esp-sa.co.za
COMPANY FOCUS
Intuition, innovation and entrepreneurial success It takes courage to succeed as an entrepreneur – to start and persevere in your own business, especially when faced with challenges. Albeit a small company, Essential Specialised Products is one of those courageous businesses. As the company is celebrating its 10th anniversary, we explore ESP’s journey to reach this significant milestone. By Abby Vorster
E
ssential Specialised Products, or The 2016 move was significant – ESP as it’s known to customers during this time ESP unpacked its and throughout the cosmetics first full container of shea butter and and personal care industry, was did its first direct indent to one of its established in January 2010 by Jane global customers. Grainger. At the time, Grainger had Shea butter is still one of ESP’s top identified an opportunity in the market selling products. It is widely used in the for a specialised supplier and wanted cosmetics industry to protect skin from to develop a company that was small environmental aggressors, UV radiation, and focused enough to handle customer photoageing and to eliminate superficial enquiries for specialised ingredients. irritations. The high level of fatty acids “The emphasis on the word specialised (dominated by oleic, stearic and linoleic is central to ESP’s ability to be on acids) and the unsaponifiable fraction the same wavelength as its contribute to its ability to customers,” she explains. moisturise the epidermis “It talks to the original and retain skin’s meaning of the elasticity. Shea term ESP and butter is also is why our payoff said to line is ‘we be superior know what to both you want’!” cocoa butter Like many small and jojoba businesses, butter in the the company treatment of initially operated damaged hair. out of Grainger’s While these garage. Two years highlights form the later, in 2012, ESP better part of ESP’s moved into its very first first decade in business, office. The business kept on Shea butter is one of ESP’s it hasn’t always been a top selling products growing, which resulted in smooth ride. In 2018, an subsequent moves to bigger investor showed interest in office space in 2014 and again in 2016. the company and what seemed like it would provide a positive boost ended up having a negative impact on the business. Grainger explains: “We spent most of 2019 rebuilding the business after a lot of damage had been done to the ESP brand. We’d worked too hard and come too far to give up. Our passion
"We always say, ‘at ESP our red tape is green’“
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SEPTEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Did you know? ESP is launching an e-commerce platform which will allow customers to order its products online. This innovation forms part of ESP’s ability to adapt in line with its customers’ needs. Everything from active ingredients to oils, butters and functional products will be available to purchase online and delivered via courier. The e-commerce offering is launching soon and will be easily accessible via ESP’s website. and drive to survive eventually paid off, resulting in us ending 2019 on a high.” At the beginning of 2020, the company moved into its dream office space with an adjacent warehouse, located in Factoria, the industrial suburb of Krugersdorp, Gauteng.
FLEXIBLE, ADAPTABLE AND CUSTOMER-CENTRIC ESP is a professional and proudly South African distributor of a wide range of cosmetic and personal care ingredients. “Our ingredients are sourced from established and reputable partners from around the world, many of whom are leading innovators in various specialist ingredient segments,” says Grainger. “Our reputation for outstanding service, reliability and integrity, coupled with long-standing experience, allows us to exceed the expectations of even the most demanding customers.” The company’s team plays an important role in upholding this ethos. Liz Visser, ESP’s sales and marketing manager, joined the business in 2010 and has been Grainger’s right-hand lady ever
COMPANY FOCUS
The ESP office and warehouse, located in Factoria, Krugersdorp
Soybean oil
Pictured at the back are ESP’s Iain Grainger and Sarah Noone with Jane Grainger (left) and Liz Visser (right)
since. Grainger and Visser are supported by a client liaison executive, warehouse manager and cleaning lady, who make up ESP’s small yet dynamic team. “We are flexible and adaptable,” says Grainger, who adds that the team puts a lot of effort into ingredient sourcing. “Going the extra mile for our customers has paid off in the long run. We always say, ‘at ESP our red tape is green’.” This flexible approach has also been a key driver behind the launch of ESP’s small pack sizes offering, which was introduced about a year ago. “As a result of many requests from customers to provide stock in smaller pack sizes, we created a platform for ordering packs ranging in size from 100 grams to four kilograms. The products available in smaller pack sizes are listed on a dedicated page on our website and they are always in stock,” she explains.
WORLD-RENOWNED PRODUCTS AND SERVICES ESP is proud to represent a variety of leading principals, including Active Concepts, Phoenix Chemicals and Nuwen by Setalg. Active Concepts conceptualises, manufactures and supplies raw materials to the cosmetics and personal care industry. Its commitment to assessing, sourcing and creating innovative products and technology platforms mirrors the ever-evolving expectations and marketing environments of the industry. Phoenix Chemicals is a hightechnology, customer-oriented
ESP’S PRODUCT FOCUS
• Refined mango butter is obtained from the seed kernel of mango fruit. High in essential fatty acids, mango butter is an emollient with healing and regenerating properties. It melts at skin temperature making it ideal for sticks and balms. It also counters the drying effects of bar soaps and cleansers and penetrates easily into the epidermis. Widely used as a primary ingredient in cosmetic products, mango butter helps to stabilise emulsions and adjust viscosity. • PhoenoMulse CE-1 is a volatile hydrofluoroether-loaded nanostructure derived from PhoenoMulse-100. It is the active ingredient responsible for the foam burst technology-based self-foaming cleansers. Foam burst technology allows formulators to develop innovative, continuous and self-foaming products contained in a non-pressurised traditional package and produced with traditional manufacturing equipment. • Active Concepts has harnessed the natural melatonin present in grapes exposed to cold stress to be of cosmetic benefit. As a result, grape biomass from ice wineries in Canada have been given new life as the source of melatonin isolation in the production of AC Melatonin Liposome SF. This active ingredient from Active Concepts offers the benefits of beauty sleep with the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant protection of melatonin. Considered a natural restorative powerhouse, it can be used to recharge skin’s radiance and reinforce the skin’s capacity for repair, renewal and revitalisation.
company dedicated to product and market development. The company promises to deliver the highest quality cosmetic and beauty ingredients, as well as environmentallyfriendly makeup. Nuwen by Setalg is recognised for its know-how in the transformation of marine natural products for the cosmetics industry. Nuwen’s range of cosmetic powders are widely used in the spa, salon and professional skin care market as peel-off, exfoliation and rinse-off face and body masks. These are resold in South Africa under ESP’s SeaSentric brand. All these principals provide ESP with unrivalled technical and marketing support, which the company transfers to its customers, allowing them to get the very best from the innovative ingredients and formulation technologies on offer. Like many businesses this year, ESP continues to navigate the challenges brought about by COVID-19. Yet, Grainger is confident the company will go from strength to strength for years to come, bringing worldclass ingredients and formulation technologies to the South African cosmetics industry. •
ESP – www.esp-sa.co.za
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2020
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PHARMA FOCUS // POWDER HANDLING & PROCESSING
Improve hygiene standards while managing material challenges Kemutec is proudly recognised as a global, high-quality brand for material producers that require screening sifters, and mixing and milling machines. Part of the Schenck Process Group, Kemutec has two new offerings ideal for powder handling in the pharmaceutical, chemical and food industries.
K
EK centrifugal sifters by Kemutec feature an advanced cantilever design that greatly improves sifting efficiency in the pharmaceutical, chemical, environmental and food industries. This innovative design, which has been implemented on virtually every model of KEK centrifugal sifters, features an easy to remove hygienic screen basket and paddle screw assembly, a hinged oversized end door and bolted flanges for dust-tight operation. The sifters also operate quietly without vibration. The cantilevered design improves efficiency with its clean, simple features that are operator friendly – no tools are required for stripping down and cleaning – along with the time saved during inspection, cleaning and maintenance. The units also contain easily removable sifter screens for inspection and cleaning, and offer easy access via an oversized end door, which opens in seconds. There is zero leakage or contamination from the end door.
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"The energyefficient mills minimise noise, dust and heat problems typically associated with traditional mills“ The sifters are ideal for use in feedstock policing, scalping, dedusting, conditioning and deagglomerating, but can also be used in unique applications, such as de-packing, inline sieving, gas purging and explosion containment. Available in white, red or blue, the nylon sifting screens are built to handle the most arduous, heavy-duty applications where access for maintenance is severely limited, such as toxic and radioactive processes. Also, optional screen protectors eject incoming extraneous objects, which could damage the sieving mesh. To further improve the sifter’s hygienic capabilities, the units can also include CIP spray facilities, inlet section access door and additional inspection doors on the sifter body. The design is also available on KEK models K300C, K650C, K800C and K1150C (the largest cantilevered sifter with capacities up to 80t per hour). “Schenck Process has established itself as a bulk materials handling provider, which is trusted throughout the process industries, by creating a culture of constant innovation and always looking at how our extensive product portfolio can better serve of customers,” says Karin Galloway, executive director of sales
SEPTEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
– Kemutec North America. “The Kemutec KEK Centrifugral Sifter line with unparalleled hygienic and ease-of-use standards exemplifies this commitment.”
PROCESS DIFFICULT-TOGRIND MATERIALS KEK cone mills by Kemutec are ideal for fatty, heat sensitive, sticky, moist and other difficult-to-grind applications in the pharmaceutical, chemical and food industries. The energy-efficient mills minimise noise, dust and heat problems typically associated with traditional mills. Their gentle, grinding action helps maintain a close particle size range with minimal fines generation. The residence time required to process materials is very short, resulting in negligible heat generation while drastically reducing build-up of those difficult-to-grind products. Each unit features an ultra-hygienic design to meet critical cleanability demands inherent to the pharmaceutical and food industries. Constructed of 304 or 316 grade stainless steel, KEK cone mills can be cleaned with high pressure hoses while access covers and motor shrouds are sealed with easy-to-remove U-section silicone gaskets. The mills are available in a variety of finishes, including bead blast, crack and crevice-free welds and mirrorpolished surfaces. The seven sizes of the mills range from 75mm to 680mm cone diameters with process rates of up to 15tph. The cone mills can also be customised to meet individual customer needs. Galloway adds: “For many years, small, medium and large manufacturers in the powder and bulk processing industries throughout North America have relied on Kemutec’s versatile, intermediate energy cone mill to meet their unique and challenging process requirements.”•
Schenck Process – www.schenckprocess.com
PHARMA FOCUS // POWDER HANDLING & PROCESSING
Developments in automation and production process control
Marchesini Group closed 2019 with a consolidated turnover of €441 million, repeating its excellent performance in 2018. Throughout 2020, the group has steadily continued its production activities, despite the sharp slowdown in the Italian and international economy caused by COVID-19. It has also continued its acquisition trail.
T
he first company in which Marchesini has aquired a stake is Carlo Corazza, which specialises in precision machining and special processes. Marchesini has also acquired a stake in FVM, which produces small automatic machines and components for the pharmaceutical, diagnostic, cosmetics and food industries. With its entry into the group, FVM will consolidate its existing collaboration with Marchesini’s Corima division, one of the
automation, process control and workflow digitalisation solutions. Marchesini’s AI project was launched in 2017 when SEA Vision became part of the group, and it continued with the acquisition of Proteo Engineering in 2018. These operations are part of the increasingly crucial strategy of interconnecting mechanics with robotics and software, as well as manufacturing with digitalisation and AI.
world’s leading manufacturers of packaging for vaccines and anti-cancer drugs.
The objective is to transform production lines to allow centralised production control, internal and external tracking and sharing of quality data, as well as predictive maintenance operations.
AI PROJECT FOCUS Auteco Sistemi has also joined the group. This software company develops
Pietro Cassani, CEO of the Marchesini Group
STRONGER BUSINESS SEGMENTS Pietro Cassani, CEO of the Marchesini Group, comments: “These operations will enable the companies involved to increase their market share and will put Marchesini in a position to further strengthen two of its essential business segments, namely automation and production process control. These two sectors will always be our priority because they allow our customers to achieve maximum benefits in terms of the performance and quality of the product lines.” In South Africa, MGSA Projects is the appointed agent and local technical service provider of the Marchesini Group. • Marchesini Group – www.marchesini.com MGSA Projects – www.mgsaprojects.co.za
Extraordinary times need Extraordinary events
Welcome to X DAYS, a series of digital events that focus on our latest packaging innovations.
Online shows created and inspired by what we have always believed in: the extraordinary power of sharing knowledge.
Discover what’s next in the world of packaging technology, Marchesini Group invites you to an event where you can find out about the latest innovations from the packaging industry.
REGISTER NOW
xdays.marchesini.com
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2020
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CONTRACT MANUFACTURING & PACKING
Easily integrated solutions for contract packers In the modern digital world, production flows and ease of operation are tantamount to profitability. Contract packers are generally challenged by the variety and volume of products that need to be run on existing production lines. TracePack prides itself in designing and integrating bespoke conveyor and traceability systems onto existing lines, improving lean manufacturing and increasing profitability, whist easing challenges to exceed a client’s requirements.
T
racePack assists the contract manufacturing industry with bespoke conveyors – from simple, stand-alone, purpose-built stations to complete production lines. The business thrives on making things run smoothly for its customers’ manufacturing processes, designed and built to their environment and industry standards, using only the most reliable parts and components. The conveyor systems from TracePack make less work for customers by purpose building conveyor systems capable of handling a variety of dissimilar products of various shapes and sizes. The company can cater to all industries and sectors with system integration, which involves incorporating existing systems and software in such a way that product quality and performance are improved. It also provides value to customers by reducing operational costs by providing one product capable of performing various functions.
FUTURE PROOF CONVEYOR SOLUTIONS TracePack can design, customise and build a variety of versatile solutions which provide flexibility to the client, enabling one piece of equipment to carry out various functions, providing long-term cost saving possibilities. “The solution we provide today, must be able to meet the requirements of tomorrow. This is why we pride ourselves in scoping the best solution, taking into account all possibilities to futureproof your production environment,” says Gary Chilton, TracePack MD. The solutions from the company are not limited to conveying systems, and also include a comprehensive range of anti-counterfeiting solutions for drug traceability. “In order to provide a comprehensive system, we can incorporate a range of thermal or continuous inkjet systems. We have just launched the IP65 multi-head thermal printer, as well as our new Perfecta ink, which is a polymer thermal ink formulated to dry on contact with the product. It is ideal for use on difficult substrates such as plastic films (PE, PET and PP), PVC, UV coats and metals with a
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"We also focus on building conveyor solutions that stand the test of time“ multiple shift production ready time. Our range of laser systems can engrave directly onto pills and tablets as well as packaging,” he adds.
AT THE FOREFRONT OF TRACEABILITY Also available from TracePack is the new ATSFour from Antares, which integrates with the Antares tracking system architecture and is comprehensive and scalable to allow the broadest connection capability available for any traceability framework. The software ecosystem manages the serialisation data flow connecting production plants, CMOs, third-party logistics and authorities, and achieves high volumes of data through an innovative data storage system. The versatile, compatibility-minded ATSFour creates a unique point of connection, enabling interlinking with healthcare agencies, CMOs and other brand owners operating with a variety of software and hardware solutions. ATSFour stands out for offering two different installation options: 1. a cloud platform 2. on-premises within the local server infrastructure of the pharmaceutical company.
SYSTEMS TO ENHANCE QUALITY CONTROL The company supplies rejection systems that are ideal to ensure the rejection of non-compliant products or the deviation of products towards specific channels, be it destined for an analysis laboratory or particular working cycles. These systems are based on different technologies and use distinctive methods of intervention, such as
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mono-push rejectors or multi-fingers deviation systems. A system is selected according to the type of line and product to ensure maximum effectiveness and precision of the intervention. OCR and OCV technology captures product information printed in human-readable formats at both the batch and item level. Cognex vision systems read codes located on individual units and cartons, validating alphanumeric text against GS1 linear and DataMatrix codes. OCRMax, a font-trainable OCR and OCV tool, sets industry standards for ease of use, read rates and speed. This powerful algorithm prevents misreads, handles process variations and provides easy font management with minimal training required. Smart cameras with OCR technology include onboard image processing and are easily configured to deliver results with low demand on additional infrastructures, such as CPU units or embedded PCs. TracePack also offers inspection solutions for the pharmaceutical, cosmetic and medical device industries. • TracePack – www.tracepack.co.za
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING & PACKING
Celebrating three decades of solid partnerships in home and personal care Sachet Manufacturers has a long history of providing efficient, high-quality packing and manufacturing services to the home and personal care industries in South Africa and beyond. We spoke to the company’s managing director, Riaz Dhai, about its vibrant history and promising future. By Abby Vorster
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ounded in 1990 by Amien Patel, the company started out with a single machine to fill sachets. Its history is a vibrant one, focusing initially on sachet filling and subsequently branching out to meet the contract filling needs of multinationals in the home and personal care industries. Dhai explains: “In 2017, the market started to experience various challenges in third-party home and personal care manufacturing. We already had a strong reputation in home care contract manufacturing, so the timing was right to diversify into the industry while expanding our geographical footprint.” 2018 was a big year for Sachet Manufacturers and marked the start of its flourishing Gauteng operations. During this time the company commissioned its first home and personal care manufacturing plant in Boksburg. Soon thereafter its second site came online in 2019 and this year, during the coronavirus pandemic, the company commissioned its third site in mid-August. The first site is Sachet Manufacturers’ main site and an end-to-end home and personal care
wide range of formats, from tubes, bottles and jars to sachets, pouches and cannisters. The renovations site can be found at the second facility. Dhai says this is where the company works only with finished products, creating secondary packaging, such as banded and promotional packs, to assist clients with their special marketing campaigns. “We specialise in varying and reconfiguring these offerings according to each client’s needs. More than a service provider, we are actually a solutions provider and can work with our clients throughout their supply chain process, from R&D to packing, marketing and launch. There is great demand for this in the market and we are proud to service this need,” he explains. Sachet Manufacturers also has a fullyequipped laboratory that carries out standard testing procedures for the home and personal care industry. It has a strong internal and external network that can facilitate new product development, including the facilitation of production trials.
manufacturing plant. Here the company does everything from manufacturing and primary packaging to secondary packaging and blending and packing. Partnering with Africa’s top home and personal care brands, it produces various products, such as toothpaste, lotions, creams, emulsions, hair care products, and liquid and powder detergents, which can be packed in a
Over the past three decades, the company has developed its services on a firm foundation of skills and technical knowledge, which it says match and surpass the industry standard. “We have a thorough understanding of the entire home and personal care industry supply chain; we bring excellence to any link in that chain. We do not provide exactly the same solution to any two clients, because each project requires something special,” says Dhai. As a result, Sachet Manufacturers’ entire solution is based on innovation. This is highly evident in its success during the last six months in assisting customers to launch new products during COVID-19. “The pandemic has resulted in serious supply chain challenges while its effect
Did you know? Sachet Manufacturers’ is home to a state-of-the-art home and personal care manufacturing facility that is able to produce a range of products in different categories across multiple flexible formats at the highest level of quality.
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"We’re a great think tank for multinationals to launch products locally in a fast and efficient manner ”
A SPECIALIST IN MANUFACTURING
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Sachet Manufacturers’ fully-equipped laboratory
on the exchange rate has created disadvantages for customers that import finished products,” he explains. “Thanks to our flexible approach, growing geographical footprint and exceptional quality standards, since March, Sachet Manufacturers has helped customers launch a host of new products. We’re a great think tank for multinationals to launch products locally in a fast and efficient manner while benefitting the economy by localising manufacturing.”
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING & PACKING
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DECADES IN BUSINESS
1990: Sachet Manufacturers is launched in Durban, KwaZulu-Natal. 2015: The company installs a grade-A, BRC-certified enzymatic powders plant at the KZN facility. 2018: The company expands its geographical footprint and horizons with the launch of a home and personal care manufacturing plant in Anderbolt, Boksburg, Gauteng. 2019: A renovation centre is established, also in Boksburg. August 2020: Sachet Manufacturers opens a third site in Boksburg, Gauteng, sparking massive growth in the region.
The company forms partnerships and relationships with its clients, rather than simply acting as service providers. “Their products become our products and we work with passion and commitment to manufacture and/or package these products to the best of our resources and expertise,” says Dhai, adding that the company’s vision is to be Africa’s leading and preferred provider of manufacturing and packaging solutions for the home and personal care industries.
expansion in Gauteng resulted in the creation of between 200 and 250 new jobs at its three sites in Boksburg. Its strong focus on meeting the contract manufacturing needs of multinational businesses and independent brands and retailers provides critical volume for the company from a production perspective. Its facilities are equipped with new technology, which in turn provides cost and quality benefits to its customers. “Our semiautomated plant offers a lot of flexibility,” says Dhai. “This is because the South African manufacturing landscape is different to the high-speed automated environment of our international counterparts. A semi-automated facility also supports job creation as it allows us to have more people on-site.” The company is equipped to deliver a full range of packing, manufacturing and other supply chain services. This and its mission to forge close industry partnerships, have put Sachet Manufacturers in a strong position to expand its services into new markets beyond South Africa. “The export market is an attractive one for us. As South Africa is a favourable manufacturing destination due to the exchange rate, we’re looking at branching out to produce products for the European, Asian and Middle Eastern markets,” he adds.
DRIVEN TO CREATE JOBS Apart from creating world-class products, the company has made a substantial contribution to job creation and economic upliftment. Its full
CREATING LASTING PARTNERSHIPS Quality is paramount to Sachet Manufacturers. The company is ISO-
Sachet Manufacturers has made a substantial contribution to job creation and economic upliftment
The semi-automated facility supports job creation
accredited with GMPs in place at all its manufacturing and packing plants. The company is also proud to have stood the test of time over three decades and is excited to play a significant role in the changes occurring in the contract manufacturing market. Dhai explains: “We’ve seen the industry is being turned on its head. Historically, third-party manufacturers in South Africa were perceived and acted as suppliers to their customers. Yet, the global business model sees contract manufacturing as more of a partnership. This is evident among multinationals, which are setting up longer-term partnerships with their contract manufacturers as they seek to deleverage themselves from manufacturing to focus on their core strengths of managing and owning brands.” The game changer in this is that it requires a sustainable and flexible third-party partner, like Sachet Manufacturers, which was established to fulfil this value proposition. The localisation of products is another key area of focus for the business. Dhai says it’s not only important for Sachet Manufacturers but also for the economy and job creation to encourage customers that are currently importing finished products to localise the manufacturing thereof. “Our mission and vision to become an established and trusted service provider will continue for decades to come, while we maintain the lasting partnerships we have established with South Africa’s top brands,” he concludes. • Sachet Manufacturers – www.sachet.co.za
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2020
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CONTRACT MANUFACTURING & PACKING
A recognised innovator and service-driven business Remancos is a contract manufacturer based in Johannesburg. It was founded by Candice Kalil, who has 25 years’ experience in the personal care industry. We chatted to Kalil about how her company is meeting needs in line with the clean beauty movement. By Abby Vorster
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he business is a recognised innovator in designing and manufacturing personal care products at its state-of-the-art facility, which has the capacity to process up to 10t a day starting from as little as 25kg. The formulation development, contract manufacturing and marketing expertise of Remancos have set the standard in the personal care, cosmetics and skin care industry since 2009. “My team is like a close-knit family,” Kalil explains. “We work well together and communicate with one another on a regular basis. I always promote respect amongst my staff, which shows in the end products.” Kalil is proud to say that even though COVID-19 has stolen so many jobs, each and every employee at Remancos has maintained their job and salary. “I believe in supporting our beautiful country and all of her people,” she explains.
A PARTNER IN CLEAN BEAUTY AND NATURAL PRODUCTS Clean beauty and natural and organic products are a speciality of Remancos, which is dedicated to meeting the skin, hair and personal care needs of modern consumers. The company is committed to producing ‘clean’ and natural products. “Consumers have become more educated on toxic ingredients and those that are deemed safe. They scrutinise ingredient listings and
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REMANCOS’ SERVICE OFFERING
google the functions of ingredients, ultimately looking for cleaner, purer and more natural products,” comments Kalil. Clean beauty and good skin care have become the drivers of a movement that everyone wants to be part of. Referring to the growth of the cruelty-free market, she says millennials really do care and that Remancos has the passion, resilience and creativity to provide solutions for customers to successfully compete in the clean beauty market.
AN INVITATION TO INNOVATION Kalil says Remancos is service-driven. She has used her cosmetic technology and marketing experience to form a company that listens to
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• objective assessment of a product’s feasibility at all stages of development • strictest confidence • creative product and graphic design teams • formulation development and sampling • in-house laboratory for research and development • stability and safety testing • bottle and packaging sourcing • organic and natural capabilities • private label marketing consultation • blending and filling • on-site manufacturing plant.
its customers and innovates, formulates and produces products in line with customers’ intended concepts. “Remancos has become a recognised innovator in designing and manufacturing personal care products at our production plant. We invite potential customers to private label our existing formulas to enhance their product lines, or to approach us with their ideas so that we can help turn them into products,” she concludes. • Remancos – www.remancos.co.za
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SERIALISE, TRACK & TRACE
Traceability powered by digitisation International trade not only opens new markets and opportunities for all industries, but also increases supply chain complexity, allowing manufacturers to see just a fraction of their products’ journey. Interoperable track-and-trace technology makes it possible to monitor product movement from manufacturer to consumer and closes supply chain loopholes by maximising the transparency of the entire process.
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ipotec-OCS is dedicated to developing state-of-the-art serialisation and aggregation
solutions that enable advanced product security and traceability through highprecision coding and seamless data exchange with your company’s IT system.
KEY DRIVERS AND BENEFITS Product traceability offers a wide variety of proven benefits. These include: • Mitigate counterfeiting risks – assigning a unique serial number to each product enables product authentication at the point of sale or by the consumer via a smartphone app or online portal. Since counterfeit products cannot have a valid serial number, any cases of fraud will become evident during barcode verification. • Increase consumer confidence and loyalty – these days consumers demand in-depth visibility of a product’s origin and other relevant information. Ensuring product safety and traceability enhances your brand image by showing consumers you care about the authenticity and safety of your products. • Prevent product diversion and illegal trade – manufacturers lose millions due to parallel imports and re-importation. A reliable track-and-trace system helps to monitor the movement of products throughout the supply chain and facilitates the selection of dependable trade partners. • Improve product recall management – with a track-and-trace system, manufacturers can save valuable time and costs when it comes to product recalls, withdrawals and reverse logistics. Leveraging unit-based traceability allows companies to quickly locate and withdraw single units instead of full batches.
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• Sharpen reporting, forecasting and planning – product traceability enables collection and analysis of production, warehousing and supply chain data. This can be analysed and used in multiple ways to support more accurate projections, production planning and stock management. • Gain a competitive edge – since consumers prefer products from brands they trust, ensuring the authenticity and integrity of your products is a vital step to gaining a significant advantage over the competition while ensuring your brand is top of mind. • Achieve global compliance – when exporting products to multiple regions, brands need to adhere to country-specific labelling and traceability regulations on imported goods, all of which have varying levels of granularity. By implementing a flexible track-and-trace system, your
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Did you know? In an effort to foster standardisation, Wipotec-OCS became a founding member of the Open-SCS Working Group and part of its steering committee. As an official GS1 solution partner and a member of global GS1 user groups, the company facilitates the development of guidelines for global traceability and UDI legislations. For more video content on track and trace topics, visit: https://bit. ly/2YlKvYg
company is exposed to new markets and growth opportunities, which can futureproof operations.
MINIMISE DIGITAL THREATS As with consumer goods, nowadays production machines follow the digitisation trend and enable connectivity to corporate
SERIALISE, TRACK & TRACE
Click on the link to learn more from Volker Ditcher, global sales director of Wipotec-OCS, about why product track and trace systems are conquering more and more areas of our daily lives
SEE MORE
networks and the internet. While this evolution offers opportunities it also involves risks. The internet is far from virus-free and IT managers are still very hesitant about connecting production machines to the corporate network. Wipotec-OCS has developed an effective solution to minimise digital threats while maximising the advantages. Embracing digitisation as a transformational and sustainable course, the company equips all traceable quality system (TQS) machines with an innovative and firewall-based virtual private network (VPN) remote service tool. A VPN is a way to build a local area network (LAN) over the internet while maintaining confidentiality. Using a secure remote service cloud was a strategic decision. The utmost advantage of this remote service tool in combination with the TQS machines is the ability to enable a secure remote connection while all other applications are open. It is embedded in the TQS device controller and accessible for the particular user levels. Other remote service tools on the market are launched directly from the central operating system. This means that machine applications need to be closed and users get access to sensible areas of the TQS device controller. In fact, this can put the validated machine at risk because system changes can lead to serious application damages. Repairing an application damage is usually quite complex and may sometimes require a complete data restore procedure. Should a current backup not be available, all data (batch information, serial numbers, etc.) will be lost forever. To protect the customer and secure
"Ensuring product safety and traceability enhances your brand image by showing consumers you care about the authenticity and safety of your products” the overall data integrity, the Wipotec-OCS remote service tool is provided as a ‘software as a service’, or SaaS.
MAXIMISE THE ADVANTAGES As the idea of SaaS is to host the software centrally, the advantage is that – independent of the country or continent – access is managed via web browser-based connection. This is embedded as a functionality in the machine HMI. Further benefits include: • global and dedicated remote support by application experts • less downtime of the production line thanks to fast remote service • lower costs (no comprehensive traveling or waiting times) • solely the customer can allow access to the TQS machine by a hardware key switch in the control cabinet to activate remote service • secure firewall access. As a service provider, Wipotec-OCS can support its customer by using a secure login procedure, connecting them via a web portal. As soon as the customer gives permission and operates the hardware switch in the machine,
Wipotec-OCS is ready to access that specific machine and run a remote session. The selection of a remote service tool was a careful process as security and data integrity are some of the most important service promises. Especially in the serialisation environment, data protection is one of the highest priorities of Wipotec-OCS.
A LEADER IN TECHNOLOGICAL INNOVATION Thanks to the TQS, Wipotec-OCS provides manufacturers across industries with customised coding, serialisation and aggregation solutions that fulfil the highest demands on efficient production technology. The solutions are designed to adhere to all global coding and labelling regulations for different products and packaging types in fully-automated, semi-automated, or manual processes. The company has a strong international footprint through the successful implementation of over 3 000 track-andtrace projects in various industries across all continents. Wipotec-OCS is now drawing on this experience to provide medical device manufacturers with reliable serialisation and aggregation technology to help them implement global serialisation and UDI regulations and protect their products against counterfeiting and illegal trade. USS Pactech is the approved distributor of Wipotec-OCS products and services in South Africa. •
USS Pactech – www.usspactech.co.za Wipotec-OCS – trackandtrace@wipotec.com
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2020
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SERIALISE, TRACK & TRACE
Combining AI with the power of embedded vision Makers of hospital supplies, medical technology and pharma products know that quality inspection is critical to success. Liability for a defective product, inconsistent quality, rapidly changing costs, increased global competition and pending unique device identification regulations all challenge the profitability of medical device manufacturers.
I
magine a medical kit on a production line – the human eye can easily verify that the correct components have been added in each kit, but this is timeconsuming. To a machine vision system, the random arrangement is also puzzling. But it doesn’t end there, one of the biggest challenges when dealing with cosmetic, or surface defects on consumer-packaged goods, is that they are dynamic. This is often caused by the forming process. Typical defects like dents, scratches, or stains may be indiscernible on a part’s textured surface during early production. These defects only become visible under specific lighting conditions later in the production process. While the cost of late detection can be painfully high, so can false rejects. This inspection is especially important in regulated industries where poor packaging quality can lead to recall events or customer complaints. Conventional vision technology can often miss complex cosmetic packaging
defects such as bubbles in labels, colour degradation, scratches, cracks, overprint and overwrap or underwrap issues. These types of unpredictable irregularities or variations are easy to discern by human inspectors, but very difficult to programme with rule-based machine vision algorithms.
SOLVE COMPLEX INSPECTION PROBLEMS TracePack introduces the Cognex In-Sight D900 embedded vision system. Said to be a firstof-its-kind solution, the In-Sight D900 features Cognex’s ViDi deep learning software inside an In-Sight industrial-grade smart camera. The self-contained system is designed to solve a broad range of complex in-line
SEE MORE Barcode identification by Cognex
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The Cognex In-Sight D900 industrial-grade smart camera features ViDi deep learning software
SEPTEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
inspection applications, including optical character recognition (OCR), assembly verification and defect detection or classification applications anywhere on the line. It can also pick up anything that previously would have gone uninspected because it was too difficult to programme with traditional, rule-based machine vision tools. In-Sight ViDi applications are deployed on the D900 smart camera without the need for a PC, making deep learning technology accessible to non-programmers. It uses the familiar and easy-to-use In-Sight spreadsheet platform, which simplifies application development and factory integration. This highly modular, IP67-rated deep learning vision system includes fieldchangeable lighting, lenses, filters and covers that can be customised to match application requirements. In-Sight ViDi is a powerful deep learning software platform explicitly designed to solve applications that are too difficult, complex, or expensive for
SERIALISE, TRACK & TRACE
IMPLEMENT LIFETIME TRACEABILITY NOW Globally, the counterfeit pharmaceuticals trade is worth $200bn (£150bn) annually, with Africa among the regions most affected, according to industry estimates.
With TracePack, you can go beyond marking on product packaging and directly mark pills and capsules
Did you know? The In-Sight D900 is ideal for automating complex inspection applications across a range of industries including consumer products, packaging, food and beverage, medical devices, logistics, automotive and consumer electronics. traditional machine vision systems. With an easy-to-use interface, In-Sight ViDi eliminates complex programming, making deep learning technology accessible for non-vision experts, and automates in-line inspections previously only possible with human inspectors.
DECODE CHALLENGING APPLICATIONS The In-Sight D900 deciphers badly deformed, skewed and poorly etched codes using optical character recognition (OCR). The In-Sight ViDi read tool works right out of the box, dramatically reducing development time thanks to the deep learning pre-trained font library. All you need to do is define the region of interest and set the character size. In situations where new characters are introduced, without vision expertise, this robust tool can be retrained to read application-specific codes that traditional OCR tools are not able to decode.
FAST AND ACCURATE ASSEMBLY VERIFICATION The technology uses artificial intelligence (AI) to detect complex features and objects reliably and verifies
The World Health Organization says 42% of all fake medicines reported between 2013 and 2017 were from Africa, with about 100 000 deaths a year in Africa linked to the counterfeit drug trade. The global counterfeit drug trade is thriving on the continent with regional markets flooded with fake and poor-quality drugs. Track-and-trace solutions for the pharmaceutical industry improve product safety by reducing the possibilities of
parts and kits are assembled correctly based on their location within a predefined layout. The In-Sight ViDi check tool can be trained to create an extensive library of components, which can be located in the image even if they appear at different angles or vary in size.
BEST-IN-CLASS FOR MANUFACTURING APPLICATIONS VisionPro ViDi is a best-in-class deep learning vision software explicitly designed for manufacturing. It is a fieldtested, optimised and reliable software solution based on a state-of-the-art set of machine learning algorithms. Combining deep learning technology with VisionPro software, VisionPro ViDi solves complex applications that are too difficult, time-consuming, or expensive for traditional machine vision systems. The software combines a comprehensive machine vision tool library with advanced deep learning tools inside a common development and deployment framework. It simplifies the development of highly variable vision applications. Its detect tool is ideal for finding anomalies on complex parts and surfaces, even in situations where defects can be unpredictable in their appearance. It learns from images of good parts to identify defective components. This allows the tool to detect a wide range of defects that do not need to be pre-defined at the time of training. •
counterfeiting and guarantee the reliability of your supply chain. By implementing lifetime traceability with track-and-trace solutions, manufacturers can follow and monitor their products throughout their life cycle. A complete track-and-trace process, incorporating serialisation and aggregation, represents the best possible control, as it could tell the entire history of any given product – from the manufacturer to the point of dispense, providing lifetime traceability across the supply chain. TracePack’s innovative solutions use advanced technologies to guarantee the whereabouts of each product entering the supply chain. By issuing serialisation identifiers on each saleable item, you are safeguarding the valuable integrity of your products. This digital passport will not only enhance the protection of your brand but will also optimise production line efficiency and minimise the recalled product. TracePack’s solutions aid in compliance with EU regulations and directives while helping you to get information from the line to optimise production and distribution efficiency, facilitate recall operations, as well as map the grey markets. They can provide evidence of counterfeiting, create customer engagement, guarantee the quality and originality of the product while ensuring supply chain transparency.
TracePack – www.tracepack.co.za
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2020
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SERIALISE, TRACK & TRACE
Accurate and detailed labelling is paramount in the pharma industry
How to add value in pharma packaging Traceability and sustainability are two major factors impacting packaging in the pharma industry. We talk to Jessica Busa, project head at Siyakha Imperial Printing Co., about some of the latest developments within these two areas.
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ounterfeit products represent many dangers. Other than the risk to the patient, fake medication also has
a detrimental effect on a product’s reputation and sales. Barcoding, RFID tags and luminescent UV varnish are some track-and-trace tools used in verifying the uniqueness of a product and package. Holographs and other detection elements can add layers of security to these already established technologies. Busa says there is also a significant opportunity within manufacturing practices and processes for more sustainable pharmaceutical packaging. “A sustainable strategy must align with patient safety and a product’s effective functionality. Lightweight blister pack materials can be used if protection of the product and handling are taken into account. Machine technology has made strides in efficient sealing with the potential to reduce material and waste. Even the amount of power, air or water used on a line can be sustainable. For example, adjustments in raw material specifications can reduce the amount of heat used to shrink a lid,” she explains.
INNOVATIVE IDEAS The pharmaceutical industry has evolved considerably. There is a much more informed customer base as a result of growth in the demand for over-the-counter medicines. Sometimes simple features incorporated in standard medication packaging can make a difference. A top-opening design, versus opening a package from the side, showcases the medication to the patient making it easy for them to see how many pills are left. An intake timer in the packaging reduces the chance of missing or skipping a dose, while a last blister reminder helps prevent patients from running out of medication. Peal-and-read labels have aided in stipulating the large amount of mandatory information on a limited surface area. Including a QR code leading directly to a product website where summarised and segmented sections of the packaging leaflet can be accessed, provides easy access to product information. • Siyakha Imperial Printing Co. – www.labelprint.co.za
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From one
brave team to another‌ Thank Thankyo you u to everyone in everyone in manufacturing and manufacturing and essential ices essential serv services for keeping keeping tthe for he machines machines run running ning and shelves shelves sto stocked, and cked, during the COVID-19 COV ID-19 the shutdown.
You are the unsung heroes!
Our #PurplePeople salute you!
New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd.
ASSOCIATION NEWS //
Coschem webinars keep everyone connected As social distancing requirements and limitations on gatherings are still in place in South Africa, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) continues to host virtual events and webinars to maintain a vital connection among its members and the industry as a whole. We take a look at a few of the seminars and social events hosted by the society during August.
PINK ladies day high tea
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very year the Coschem ladies day is a highlight on the calendar of the society’s social committee. However, due to the ongoing coronavirus pandemic, many social events have had to be cancelled, including the 2020 ladies day. According to Liesl Keulder, chairperson of the social committee, they felt it was necessary to stay in touch with members while encouraging virtual interaction.
“We organised a virtual high tea on 14 August. The ladies of the society were encouraged to bring their tea/drinks for the event as well as some treats and to dress according to the theme – PINK – which stands for pause, inquire, nurture and navigate with kindness,” she explains. The high tea was held via Zoom. For the first part of the event, Tamara Al-Halaseh,
Coschem’s virtual high tea on 14 August
founder of Ever Journey, gave a motivational talk focused on selftalk and how important it is to become aware of our self-talk patterns. Tamara gave the ladies a very simple tool to change their thinking patterns when it comes to negative thoughts. The rest of the afternoon was spent giving each lady an opportunity to have a few minutes to chat about how they have been coping during lockdown and to talk about their pink items they brought to event. The virtual social event was very successful, and the ladies had a great time connecting. •
Tamara Al-Halaseh of Ever Journey, who gave a motivational talk for the ladies day
Tips on accessing the EU market
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n 17 August, Dr Anushka Govindsamy, sales and product consultant at Lisam South Africa, presented a webinar on EU market access for indigenous ingredients and cosmetic products. The webinar offered insight into the project initiated by the ABioSA
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programme, funded by the Swiss State Secretariat for Economic Affairs (SECO) and implemented by the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) office in South Africa, in response to the gaps identified during the 2019 ‘product dossier gap analysis study’.
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The project aims to provide SMEs with technical guidance and to assist southern African essential oil producers in taking active ownership of REACH dossiers, CLP regulatory requirements and/or the cosmetic regulatory and safety requirements for the EU. Dr Govindsamy explained that the project will look to support the collective/joint
ASSOCIATION NEWS //
Formulators of clean beauty products look for multifunctional technologies that can limit the number of ingredients needed for a formulation
REACH registration for the most commonly used indigenous species in order to reduce trade barriers into the EU/EEA and make the process of REACH registration more affordable to SMEs. The modalities envisaged for these collective registrations include methods for protecting the confidential information and any intellectual property of the individual SMEs. During the webinar, the benefits of appointing an only representative and responsible person were highlighted – especially the main point that communication of information needed by
the EU importers would require the disclosure of confidential business information. Among the many project deliverables to SMEs, it was mentioned that they will be provided with content specific workshops on REACH requirements, CLP requirements and EU cosmetic regulation and safety compliance requirements, a safety data sheet authoring solution for a consortium of SMEs, as well as a best practices manual. •
Dr Anushka Govindsamy, sales and product consultant at Lisam South Africa
Did you know? The hair flair event on 5 August gave members an opportunity to enjoy a fun social catch up and virtual hair demonstration. Aimed at Caucasian hair, Coschem’s social committee organised the event with the help of hair stylist Daniel from ‘Dis ‘se Moet’. Daniel advised on how to add flair to your hair, entertained everyone and answered some ‘hairy’ questions. The society is planning on hosting a similar event focused on ethnic hair.
Daniel from ‘Dis ‘se Moet’ with his hair model
Join the clean beauty movement
O
n 20 August, Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review, gave a presentation on the hot topic of clean beauty. It’s a movement that’s new to the South African cosmetics industry and one that has grown substantially internationally, over the past two years. Clean beauty is products made without ingredients shown or suspected to harm human health. These products can be luxurious or everyday formulations and range from a shower gel or lip colour that you use daily to a youth-boosting super serum that leaves skin glowing. While there is no regulated definition for clean beauty, experts say the crux of this trend is the use of a combination of natural ingredients and safe synthetics in beauty and cosmetic products, which do not compromise on quality, efficacy and aesthetics. The movement is highly driven by consumers increased access to information with apps and barcode scanning technology having become so good that conventional beauty companies have even less of an excuse to keep making products with potentially harmful ingredients. In her presentation, Abby shared insights into the clean beauty consumer and the trends in this market. As of 2019, the perception of clean beauty among female consumers worldwide showed that 58% of respondents considered that clean beauty meant that the product was natural; 32% perceived clean beauty products to contain less harsh chemicals and 28% said clean beauty means a product is cruelty free. In the eyes of consumers, clean beauty is a beautiful thing. It’s all about honest brands formulated with honest ingredients and transparency spans the life cycle of a clean beauty product. Clean beauty products are those that are mindfully created and produced without any proven or suspected toxic ingredients; clean beauty brands are also said to avoid traditional ingredients. These products include ingredients that are ethically sourced and made with the health of our bodies and the environment in mind.
Formulators in this market look for multifunctional technologies that can limit the number of ingredients needed for a formulation. Shorter INCIs are highly typical of clean beauty brands. A huge aspect of clean beauty is the reference to ‘no nasties’ or ‘forbidden lists’, which constitute dedicated sections on their websites with a lot of content on so-called harmful ingredients. These pages often use rather emotive language around ingredients and what makes them harmful. Two ingredients that have been ditched by almost all clean beauty advocates are parabens and sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS). Abby shared information on some of the most widely used apps, such as Healthy Living, Think Dirty and INCI Beauty, which have been developed specifically to help consumers decode scientific terminology and understand the toxicity (or lack thereof) of cosmetic ingredients. These apps also assist consumers in understanding the ingredients in their beauty products, and most of them have accompanying websites and e-commerce platforms. The presentation also touched on social media as it’s the main marketing medium of clean beauty brands. If you have a look on Instagram, clean beauty brands constitute some of the quickest growing active accounts on the platform. The clean beauty hashtag boasts close on three million posts on Instagram, with beautifully curated content of products and people. Besides promoting products, successful clean beauty brands also recognise the value of community. Abby advised guests to speak their audiences’ language while engaging with them on an intimate level. You’ll see inspirational quotes, text overlays, videos and memes sprinkled across so many clean beauty feeds. •
For more information on Coschem’s upcoming virtual events, please send an e-mail to bridget@coschem.co.za.
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // SEPTEMBER 2020
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To advertise in contact Anita Raath Sales executive
+27 (0)82 976 6541
Sudoku
Carla Melless Sales executive
+27 (0)83 260 6060
Càndida Giambò-Kruger
Solution
Sales executive
+27 (0)71 438 1918
ADVERTISERS' INDEX
www.pharmacos.co.za
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06 Agencies SA......................................25........www.o6southafrica.com
Jungheinrich South Africa.............. OBC........www.jungheinrich.co.za
AECI Specialty Chemicals...........16, 17........www.innospecinc.com
MGSA Projects......................................35........www.xdays.marchesini.com
BASF Holdings South Africa............IFC........www.basf.co.za
Millchem..................................................20........www.millchem.co.za
Bragan Chemicals.................................. 7........www.braganchemicals.co.za
Nautica Organic Trading ...................18........www.nauticaorganics.com
Cama Group............................................46........www.camagroup.com
Remancos...............................................40........www.remancos.co.za
CanbiGold.................................................. 5........www.virogold.co.za
Sachet Manufacturers ......................37........www.sachet.co.za
Christo Coetzee Attorneys................. 8........www.christocoetzeelaw.co.za
Savannah Fine Chemicals.................23........www.savannah.co.za
Essential Specialised Products.......31........www.esp-sa.co.za
Sensetek .................................................19........www.sensetek.co.za
Hersol Manufacturing Lab ............... 41........www.hersol.co.za
Symrise SA ......................................21, 27........www.symrise.com
IMCD SA................................................OFC........www.imcdgroup.com
SEPTEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic
Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems,
Chemists’ website will find information
Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam
on membership, educational
Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters,
programmes (specific details
Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives
pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and
Tel: 010 595 9690
higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.
Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za
www.coschem.co.za
M&L LABORATORY
DALGEN
M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of
Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers, plastic containers,
analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage,
closures and packaging accessories.
Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025
Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za
accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com
FORMPAK
BOTANICHEM
For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass,
BOTANICHEM is a supplier of specialist ingredients
chemical, food and dairy industries.
to the cosmetic and personal care industry, with a
Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com
H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations. If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.
113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com
particular focus on plant-derived ingredients which support sustainable supply and fair-trade practice. We also aim to understand the needs of clients and to source the appropriate ingredient, at the right price.
www.botanichem.co.za
QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications. Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC
www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK
The backbone of your warehouse is made of skill and steel.
We provide a comprehensive range of racking and storage systems, mezzanines and self-supporting stores (silos) for accommodating everything from pallets, containers and trays to boxes and long goods. The efficiency of your entire material flow is increased by our bespoke warehouse racking system design.
0800 984 001
www.jungheinrich.co.za