Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review October 2017

October 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 10

www.pharmacos.co.za

Enhancing skin care

with pure, organic ingredients

Dressing up skin care for the future Strong growth for local pharmaceutical producers Maintain quality standards

Attend the P C Review 2018

Beauty Trends& Innovations Conference

• Eight beauty and personal care experts in one inspiring day • One unmissable session on marketing a beauty brand in 2018 Other topics to be presented at the conference: · R&D, creativity and innovation · The dos and don’ts of E-commerce · How to keep your product in business? · Regulations and legislation Date: Thursday, 22 February 2018 Time: 8:30am until 16:00 Venue: Media Park Auditorium, Auckland Park, Johannesburg, South Africa Early bird Tickets Released! Book before 31 October and save!

Early bird special: R 795 per person including VAT Tickets booked after 31 October: R995 per person including VAT You will receive a full breakdown of the day once you have booked and paid for your ticket as well as a breakdown of all the speakers.

Send an email to Natalie.DaSilva@newmediapub.co.za for more information

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

October 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 10

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEWS

New non-animal test methods in development

HPA appoints first ever female chairperson

Achieve an even complexion with Symbright

14 SKIN CARE

A teacher and learners from Ramaahlo Primary School, Botanica’s benefit sharing partner

Changing the approach with pre/probiotics

NWU launches new toxicity testing facility

Improve skin health with hydroxyapatite

A look at Avroy Shlain’s seamless end-to-end supply chain

Beauty boosting superfood ingredients from Lipotec

Evonik’s innovative sensory concepts

23 QUALITY CONTROL

South African-developed Goldilux light meters

Parmetol MBX for microbial quality management

Robotic automation from Omron

It is the only vitamin K2 to meet the USP and TGA standard requirements

12

34

28 PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS: MADE IN SA

MJ Labs celebrates its heritage

Setting the quality standard for vitamin K2

Adcock Ingram pursues value-adding acquisitions

37 AEROSOLS

29

One of the tablet presses at MJ Labs

Recommendations to overcome valve blocking

40 SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING

Fighting flab with Delipidol and B-shape

Proven anti-cellulite effects of ShapePerfection

43 46 Glass Packaging A clearer perspective for pharma and cosmetics

46 Marsing has been successfully supplying the African pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, cosmetics and health care industries for more than 20 years.

48 ASSOCIATION NEWS Highlights from the Coschem conference

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

3

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

For the love of healthy skin

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za

S

Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za

kin care is the biggest segment

is MJ Labs, which recently secured its

of the beauty industry with Forbes

GMP license from the Medicines Control

forecasting global skin care sales

Council. In celebration of its achievement

to cross the US$130 billion mark by

and the company’s phenomenal growth,

Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributors: Cristina Davi, Elena Cañadas, Jean-François Molina, Kim MacCallum, Raquel Delgado, Rosalía Mantilla, Sylesh Venkataraman ADVERTISING

Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za

2019. It’s important to know what trends are

an extensive company focus on MJ Labs is

Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za

driving the segment to guarantee your slice

featured on page 28.

INTERNATIONAL SALES

of this lucrative pie.

Probiotic ingredients, superfoods for the

Ingredients for skin firming lotions, tightening tonics and body smoothing

skin and products with interesting textures

creams are highlighted in the slimming and

that enhance the consumer’s experience

body contouring feature on page 40. The

are three of the biggest trends. Each of

focus is on all-natural ingredients sourced

these is featured in the skin care feature on

from seaweed and chilies, which promise to

page 14 in this edition of Pharmaceutical

tighten up consumers from head to toe.

In our regular PACKAGING REVIEW

Cosmetic Review. We also have the scoop

on North-West University’s new toxicity testing

section on page 43, Aarifah Nosarka

facility and take an inside look at how

looks at the latest developments in glass

Avroy Shlain continues to achieve supply

packaging for the pharmaceutical and

chain excellence.

cosmetics industries. She also introduces

The quality control feature on page 23 is

readers to the panel of judges for the 2017

a must read if you are looking to improve

Gold Pack Awards and reveals the name

quality management practices within your

change and new branding for

laboratory or manufacturing facility. Some

the Polystyrene Association

of the solutions discussed include light

of South Africa.

meters for laboratories and a two-in-one in-can preservative that eliminates the risk of

I hope you enjoy the read!

microbial contamination.

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za Production Controller: Rae Morrison Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.

While there has been a decline in the number of multinational pharmaceutical

MANAGING DIRECTOR

manufacturers in South Africa over the

Aileen Lamb

last few years, we’re noticing an increase

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

in contract manufacturers and packers

Bridget McCarney

equipped to meet the needs of this highly

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

regulated industry. One such manufacturer

John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Consultant, drbaileys.com

Dr Trevor Baillie

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

HEAD OFFICE

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

John Knowlton Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

CEO of the National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers

Vivian Frittelli P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa NAPM - The National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers

4

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices.

Printing and frosting facilities are available.

Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028

NEWS

Overcoming the need to reference

animal test data

ASPEN ASSISTS

KNYSNA FIRE VICTIMS THE RECENT DEVASTATING fires in Knysna and surrounds

A COLLABORATIVE PROJECT between UK-based non-

caused widespread damage

animal testing laboratory, XCellR8, and dermatological

and loss to residents from all

testing organisation, Cutest, has been launched, thanks to a

walks of life, but none more so

substantial grant by Innovate UK.

desperate than patients who

The aim of the project is to take the first steps to establishing

lost their chronic medication.

reliable correlations between in vitro and in vivo predicative

This placed a huge burden of

irritation testing, to eliminate the need to refer to historical and

primary health care work at

often unreliable animal test data. This is an exciting opportunity

clinic level where staff struggled

to develop innovative methods to provide enhanced consumer

to cope.

protection through being able to predict potential irritancy from topically applied ingredients and products.

Aspen stepped up to the plate, funding six postbasic pharmacist assistants (PABA) to relieve the

Front row: Geraldine Turner (Knysna Hospital), Annezette Louwrens (PABA), Lourencia Frans (PABA), Jackie Tau (Aspen Pharmacare) and Dr Earle du Plooy (Knysna Provincial Hospital) with Ruda Kotze (PABA), Jerome Fillies (PABA), Sinethemba Sobuz (PABA) and Xolani Ndedwa (PABA) in the back row

An important part of the application to Innovate UK was the

pressure, distributing chronic parcels and helping

support expressed by several leading personal care brands and

sisters with dispensing prescriptions. Four clinics

retailers to the objective of developing new predictive safety

and two CDCs benefitted from their professional

Staff members at the clinics were highly

testing methodologies that further remove the need to refer to

assistance at Hornlee Clinic, Khayalethu Clinic,

impressed with the professionalism and self-

historical animal testing. The two-year research programme

Sedgefield Clinic, Knysna Town Clinic, Knysna CDC

sacrificial commitment of the Aspen team. Sr

started on 1 August and is seeking to determine the correlation

and Kwanokuthula CDC.

Companie at Keurhoek Clinic commented: ‘No one

between human in vitro and in vivo data, using a panel of

Dr H Schumann, district manager for Eden/

is more cherished in this world than someone who

carefully selected reference materials to improve the sensitivity

Central Karoo in the Western Cape Department

and predictive capacity of skin irritation tests. Stewart Long,

of Health had this to say of Aspen’s ready

CEO of Cutest Systems says: ‘We are very excited to be awarded

support: ‘The amazing contribution from Aspen to

Provincial Hospital teams, Stavros Nicolaou, senior

this significant research grant from Innovate UK to undertake

support the Knysna Health services and Knysna/

executive, strategic trade development, said: ‘We

this important work. We feel that the 30 years of in vivo irritation

Bitou communities, which experienced great

felt privileged to be in a position where we could

testing and published research by Cutest, combined with

losses in various forms during the recent fires, is

extend a helping hand to those affected by the

the state of the art in vitro testing and research that XCellR8

much appreciated.’

fires that ravaged parts of the Garden Route. We

undertakes, makes this a powerful research collaboration with two leading and complementary companies.’

lightens the burden of another. Thank you Aspen.’

Commenting on the response from the Knysna

The pharmacist assistants’ work varied greatly,

are moved and humbled by the way in which our

from checking expiry dates, emergency trolleys

team was received and the appreciation expressed

and stock cards to filling up cupboards and

by the community of Knysna. It is a glowing tribute

latest funding from Innovate UK means we can continue to

assisting with chronic medication, keeping records

to the spirit that truly characterises us as South

expand our research and development capabilities, which

and ensuring all processes and procedures were

Africans – when the chips are down, we stand

puts us at the leading edge of developing new, non-animal

followed effectively.

together and help one another.’

Dr Carol Treasure, founder and MD of XCellR8, adds: ‘The

testing methods for the cosmetics industry. Many of our clients have expressed frustration with the unreliability of existing grant will allow companies to take a leap forward in accurately

NEW ENGINEERING HEAD FOR ACG

establishing how ingredients may or may not irritate the skin

THE GLOBAL SUPPLIER of integrated

prior to human volunteer trials, thus speeding up the process of

manufacturing solutions for leading

the success and profitability of the

bringing products to market.’

pharmaceuticals and nutraceutical

companies he has been associated

animal test data and its lack of relevance for humans. This

This research on developing new non-animal testing methods is essential in helping brand owners comply with the EU Cosmetics Regulation

and has significantly contributed to

companies, has hired Richard

with. I welcome Richard to ACG

Stedman as group CEO for its

and look forward to his guidance

engineering business units. ACG

and counsel.’

serves customers in 100 countries

Stedman adds: ‘ACG is a global

through its network of 15 global manufacturing facilities.

In his role as group CEO, Stedman

supplier for pharmaceutical solutions Richard Stedman

will manage the entire engineering

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

base and superior quality engineering solutions. The opportunity is to

business that includes products and solutions for

leverage the breadth and capability of the ACG

granulation, capsule filling, tablet presses, tablet

engineering companies to provide enhanced

coating, blister packing and cartoning.

solutions for our customers.’

Karan Singh, MD of ACG, comments: ‘I am

6

and products, with a loyal customer

A seasoned executive with extensive

extremely pleased to have Richard as part of

experience across multidisciplinary functions,

my leadership team at ACG. He has invaluable

Stedman will be based at the ACG offices in

experience in managing engineering businesses

Kandivali, Mumbai.

NEWS

HPA WELCOMES FIRST

WOMAN CHAIRPERSON THE HEALTH PRODUCTS Association (HPA) is proud to announce the election of Maria Ascencao as its new

FIRST-EVER AUTOMATEDBRIEFING PROGRAMME FOR DRIVERS IMPERIAL LOGISTICS HAS achieved a first in the African transport industry with the

chairperson. An executive

launch of an automated-briefing system for drivers.

member of the HPA since 1996,

‘This ground-breaking initiative is reducing the operational risk in Imperial’s

Ascencao is the first woman at

operations, while expanding employees’ exposure to the latest industry technology.

helm since the Association’s

It also provides then with opportunities for growth and development,’ states chief

inception in 1976.

strategy officer, Cobus Rossouw.

‘I extend sincerest thanks

Tanker Services, a division of Imperial Logistics, is rolling out the automated-

and appreciation to my fellow

briefing programme across all its operations. Already running with great success

members of the executive

The South African Journal of Natural Medicine voted Maria Ascencao one of the top 10 contributors to the South African health industry

council of the Health Products Association, who have elected me chairperson. I’m humbled and honoured that they

in Tanker Services’ Fuel & Gas division, this pioneering project consists of a comprehensive system on which every driver’s personal and professional information is stored – from driving certificates, licenses and training updates to driver ratings, incident reports, medical details and chronic medication. Self-briefing

have entrusted me with this

and education to the highest

‘kiosks’, much like the self-service check-in counters at airports, have been installed

responsibility,’ says Ascencao.

standards of products and

at Imperial’s sites for drivers to access the self-briefing portal. ‘Where drivers would

Ascencao has dedicated

services, and to find a new

previously interface with a controller, they now clock into the self-service portal and

over 30 years to the field of

approach to effectively

brief themselves on the system,’ Rossouw explains.

natural health and wellness,

communicate the benefits

and has been acknowledged

and strengths of the industry

the driver to clock in unless he has had the required 12 hours’ rest. If he is taking

as a pioneer of utmost integrity.

within the wellness paradigm,’

chronic medication for a condition like diabetes, for example, it will ask the driver

Her work has been recognised

she states.

questions to ensure that he has taken his medication.’

CAMs and health

by her global business

Developed by Imperial, this system is a transport industry first. ‘It will not allow

This biometric system is operated with the driver’s fingerprints, and Rossouw

partners, leading South African

supplement companies are a

reports that Imperial has found staff are more willing to declare facts and answer

retailers and the media.

crucial part of South Africa’s

questions during the self-briefing session than they might be when sitting face-to-

economy. Ascencao says

face with a supervisor. ‘If a driver has forgotten to take his medication, it is easier

on behalf of the HPA and

the industry provides jobs

for him to be open with the self-briefing portal. An issue like this would be flagged,

its members to promote

and opportunities, and gives

the driver would have a session with a controller and the problem can be quickly

positive communications

consumers the freedom to

and easily remedied.’

and public relations, training

make educated choices to

‘I’m excited to begin work

The HPA 2017/18 executive council • Chairperson: Maria Ascnecao (Coyne Healthcare) •H onorary president: Bruce Dennison (Ex-Officio) (Natural Products Strategic Advice) • Executive secretary: Deirdre Allen • Treasurer: Norman Fels (Sports Health & Fitness) • Regulatory and technical director: Wayne Robinson (Azochem) • Legal consultant: Howard Snoyman • Technical and regulatory consultant: Janet Welham (Saige Marketing) • Regulatory consultant: Celecia Pleass

For drivers, the system is providing them with computer skills and boosting their

achieve better

self-esteem. ‘Our drivers are very proud to be able to tell their family members that

health.

they are now using computers at work.’

‘We will continue the

The same system and kiosks are also being used for post-trip driver debriefing by Imperial, with great success.

good work of effectively representing the interests of the SA natural health and CAMs industry at all levels of the legislative, regulatory and

Committee members

Parliamentary

• Michelle Body (Adcock Ingram)

while working

processes,

• Allen Frank (Amway)

proactively

• Pravashini Govender (Herbalife Nutrition)

with other

• Samantha Jordaan (Ascendis Health)

industry

• Rudi Martins (Vital Health Foods)

associations

• Steve Parker (Good Health Products)

to achieve

• Rachel Wrigglesworth/Erika Zaier (Clicks)

this,’ she concludes.

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

7

NEWS

HYGIENIC PHARMA SIEVE INSTALLED AT SRI KRISHNA

New patents for

SABINSA’s

SRI KRISHNA

Therefore, we required

cosmetics division

PHARMACEUTICALS

sieving equipment capable

is an established

of achieving exceptional

manufacturer of

quality standards, as well

SABINSA COSMETICS, A division of the Sami Labs –

pharmaceutical products

as high production rates.

Sabinsa Group, has been granted two new patents on

such as paracetamol,

Russell Finex was very

novel cosmetics compositions, both developed from

folic acid, domperidone

helpful in acknowledging

extensive research on combinations of the company’s

and furosemide,

our requirements

branded ingredients. These most recent patents are likely

supplying more than 150

and identifying a

to fuel the company’s rapid growth in the cosmetics

niche drugs to the Asian

suitable solution.’

industry given the high demand for sunscreen lotions and

pharmaceutical market, in

hair growth formulations.

South Africa, Europe and

of sieving active

Due to the nature

the USA. The company

pharmaceutical ingredients

composition comprising of β – glucogallin (1-O-galloyl-

is represented locally by

(APIs), mesh blinding can

β-D-glucose) or β – glucogallin and total gallates from

Siyeza Fine Chemicals.

often be experienced

When expanding

when screening these

United States patent US9498423 describes a synergistic

Amla (Saberry), concentrate of liquid endosperm of Cocos nucifera (Cococin) and the selenopeptides (β-L-

production at one of its

glutamyl-Se-methyl-L-selenocysteine, and β-L-glutamyl-

facilities, the company

pharmaceutical powders.

L-selenomethionine) for maintaining the morphology

needed a high-quality

and numbers of the dermal papilla cells when exposed

pharmaceutical screening

to stress signals. The composition protects the dermal

solution. Having

papilla cells from stress signals (UVB radiation), and the

purchased Russell Finex

numbers of live dermal papilla cells are maintained at a

machinery previously, Sri Krishna Pharma once

Pfizer, GSK, Wyeth and Sanofi-Aventis, Russell

level of 95 percent or more when the dermal papilla cells

again relied on this supplier to provide a solution.

Finex analysed Sri Krishna Pharma’s unique

With more than 80 The Russell Finex hygienic pharma sieve installed at Sri Krishna Pharmaceuticals’ Uppal factory supports consistent product quality and increased production rates

Production at its Uppal factory was being up-

are exposed to UVB radiation levels ranging from 0.8 J/cm2

years’ experience supplying aseptic pharmaceutical screening solutions to global customers including

requirements and supplied three 900mm diameter

to 1.0 J/cm2. This composition has also been patented in

scaled to include the manufacture of paracetamol.

Russell Compact Sieve units with the Vibrasonic

Europe (EP2695603), Japan (JP6064274), New Zealand

During its manufacture, a homogeneous product is

Deblinding System. The enclosed system is ideal

(NZ600307) and Russia (RU2606752).

made by blending various pharmaceutical powders

for the pharmaceutical industry as it provides total

to provide the perfect uniform mixture. The product

containment, protecting operators from any harmful

in Europe (EP2461786) for a composition comprising

must then be screened before it is packaged,

dusts or fumes.

β – glucogallin (1-O-galloyl-β-D-glucose) Amla (Saberry)

to ensure foreign or oversize contamination

and concentrate of liquid endosperm of Cocos nucifera

is removed.

Sabinsa’s cosmetics division has also received a patent

A Bhaskar Reddy, assistant general manager

(Cococin) for promoting hair growth. This composition

Reddy adds: ‘The installation of the Russell machines has not only made full sanitation easy to achieve, but also protects the health and safety

also protects dermal papilla cells from UV rays. The

of purchasing and stores at Sri Krishna Pharma,

of our operators. These units have proved to be

invention has previously been granted a patent in in

says: ‘We are very conscientious when it comes

the ideal solution, helping us to meet production

Australia (AU2010326651).

to product quality at all stages of manufacture.

demand whilst improving hygiene.’

Symbright promotes even complexion PRODUCED IN HIGH purity from clary sage,

permanent hyperpigmentation disorders on the face

studied the skin’s reaction to external aggressors. After

SymBright is a natural, sustainable, and versatile

and body.

screening several hundred molecules, the company

product from Symrise. It protects the skin from harmful environmental aggressors, which can lead to

SymBright shields the skin against the negative effects of air pollution, UV rays and blue light with

balance, preserving skin luminosity despite exposure to

Skin’s natural brightness is maintained or

external aggressors.

Stress, pollution, UV rays and visible

SymBright’s efficacy has been proven in clinical testing with significant results. After less than seven

light seem to trigger a common reaction

weeks of application, skin areas exposed to UV rays are

sequence in the skin involving inflammation

brighter and more even. The active ingredient soothes

and melanin production. This sequence is

skin and protects it from harmful environmental

part of the skin’s natural defense system

influences, helping to modulate the pigmentation

so the production of melanin is often

process. Skin’s natural defense system is strengthened

augmented, leading to pigmentation

and dark spots and redness are avoided. This makes

disorders and the formation of dark spots.

the ingredient ideal for skin care products such as

As a leader in sensitive skin and environmental skin protection, Symrise has

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

ingredient – can assist the skin in keeping its natural

visible results after just a few weeks of use. it returns.

8

found that SymBright – a skin brightener and soothing

face, décolleté and hand creams; after-sun care and deodorants.

STREET Serum with

natural oils

African Extracts has launched a daily repair

Exfoliation gets sexy

Luxury brand, Khave is a body scrub range developed by ex-Stormers rugby player, Tim Whitehead and business partner, Stuart Black. These locally produced scrubs are sexy, dark, indulgent and packaged in masculine pouches that are sleek and chic. The scrubs are

facial oil, which promises to protect skin against environmental damage and premature ageing.

It is formulated with bio-active rooibos, which is high in antioxidants. It also contains a cocktail of precious plant extracts. Jojoba seed oil offers superb moisturising, olive-oil derived squalane helps maintain suppleness and radiance while neem seed oil supports sensitive skin. The serum is sold nationwide in Dis-Chem, Clicks, selected pharmacies and major supermarkets, and online on Takelot and Zando.

available online only in two variations – Eliven (coffee/ cinnamon) and Revive (coconut/matcha). Visit www. khaveskin.com for more information.

The science of

skin care

QMS Medicosmetics has launched a new serum based on epigenetics. EpiGen Daily-Detox Serum is formulated with a rejuvenating epigeneticpeptide, which stimulates cell migration and proliferation. It also allows skin to recover its integrity faster. The serum is said to represent a new era in skin care development. QMS Medicosmetics’

Inspired

by Africa Indulge your skin and senses in the exotic scents of the African Skin Care collection. These body lotions are rich in vitamin E to nourish the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and soft with a beautiful glow. The 500mℓ lotions are available from @Home stores in three variants: Savannah Shea; Marrakech Argan and Cape Olive.

products are available online from www.futurethis.co.za.

Spritz-on UV protection Optiphi has launched a new sun care product, Solar Spritz SPF 30, which forms part of South African brand’s Body Curve range. This oil-

Give your locks a glow The launch of highlighting toners by

Label.m marks the arrival of an industry first. This high fashion hair care collection comprises four unique sprays, directly

free, mattifying formulation offers lightweight

inspired by the makeup trend called

sun protection and is ideal for anyone with

strobing. They provide an incredible

an active lifestyle. It is packaged in a spray bottle making it easy to apply. According to Optiphi, Solar Spritz curbs the effects of UV rays such as redness and photo-ageing.

Optiphi skin care products are available at selected spas, salons and skin centres.

luxe-metallic finish, giving colour highlights on hair with an iridescent glow. Label.m highlighting toners give consumers the freedom to be creative with their hair, using non-committal colour. Theseproducts are available at selected Splush stores.

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

9

DIARY 2017 RE V IE W

ood f SOUTH AFRICAN

2017 SUBSCRIPTION FORM Please complete in block letters, select your subscription option, and return this form, along with your payment to: NEW MEDIA PUBLISHING (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Tel +27 21 701 1566. Fax 086 529 6468.

SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS (please tick) 1 YEAR

2 YEAR

Food Review Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review

R726

Food Review + Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review

R474

R474 R855

R726 R1300

Full Name:...........................................................................................

Designation: ........................................................................................

Company: ...........................................................................................

Postal Address:................................................................................... .................................................................Code:.................................

Country: ..............................................................................................

Tel: (

)....................................... Fax: (

) ..................................

E-mail:.................................................................................................

Main activity of company:...................................................................

Approximate number of employees: ..................................................

WHAT'S ON IN

November Cosmetica Berlin

18 to 19 November Messe Berlin, Germany www.cosmetica.de/cosmetica-berlin/

East Afripack 21 to 23 November Kenyatta International Conference Centre www.ipackima.com/en/pages/east-afripack-2017

Saudi Health & Beauty Riyadh 27 to 29 November Al-Faisaliah Hotel www.saudihealthandbeauty.com

Saphex 2017 28 to 29 November Sandton Convention Centre, JHB www.saphex.co.za

December

Saudi Health & Beauty Jeddah

3 to 5 December Jeddah Hilton Hotel www.saudihealthandbeauty.com

VAT No: ............................................................................................... ❑ I would like to receive the newsletters and feature announcements via email and may be added to the mailing lists.

Signature:............................................................................................

CBH Expo Beauty & Hygiene

Please select your preferred method of payment:

❑

Payee:

Acc No:

New Media Publishing (Pty) Ltd .

Nedbank Seapoint

1069321540

Branch Code: 10-69-09-00

❑

Credit Card (Mastercard & Visa only) Name of card: .............................................................................

Expiry Date: ................................................................................

Card Number: .............................................................................

CVC Number...............................................................................

Date: ...........................................................................................

Signature:....................................................................................

❑

TAX INVOICE REQUIRED Note: The above prices are applicable to South Africa only.

International rates available on request.

10

8 to 10 December Casablanca, Morocco www.cbhexpo.com

Direct Deposit (Fax this form together with a copy of your deposit slip to: +27 086 529 6468 Bank:

2017

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

January Cosme Tokyo

24 to 26 January Makuhari Messe, Japan, Tokyo www.cosmetokyo.jp/en/

International Salon and Spa Expo 27 to 29 January Long Beach, USA www.probeauty.org/isselb

S FOR : BUTO R IS T R I UD D E PRO RE TH WE A

IMCD can help you source the most innovative materials in the industry, as well as functional ingredients to optimise your formulations in personal care, pharma and home care.

IMCD SA | 275 Oak Avenue, Randburg 2194 | TEL: +27 11 570 4260 | FAX: +27 11 293 2069

COMPANY FOCUS

The beauty of

natural ingredients Based on the company’s product range and its experience in distribution, Botanica Natural Products has positioned itself as a competent niche distributor of unique active ingredients, oils and butters.

B

otanica Natural Products (Botanica)

instrumental in establishing the source

such as shower gels, bath oils and

is an established, respected

to market supply chains of shea butter

hair conditioners.

producer and business-to-business

in the ’70s and Argan oil 10 years ago.

distributor of cosmetics extracts from

While marketing Botanica’s products

and skin feel of shea butter are good,

Africa. The company specialises in sourcing

to potential clients in South Africa,

they are not unique when compared

100 percent pure ingredients from producers

Colson and Coetsee saw there was an

to other vegetable oils and fats with

and offers them to discerning customers who

opportunity to supply 100 percent pure,

similar fatty acid composition and

are focused on quality.

organically certified oils and butters to the

consistency. The main reason for the use

South African industry.

of shea butter in high-end cosmetics

By partnering with ingredient producers and supplying products directly to

formulations is the non-glyceride

manufacturers, the company ensures

Healing damaged skin

the supply chain is as kept as short as

Shea butter is obtained from

possible. This empowers Botanica to offer

the kernels of the shea tree

smaller minimum order quantities (from five

(Butyrospermum parkii),

kilograms) at more attractive prices for small

which grows in the

and medium enterprises or new entrants to

semi-arid savannah

the industry.

woodland of West Africa,

The company has also developed strategic partnerships with various import and domestic freight forwarders to ensure its

reaching from Senegal to Uganda.

This natural

products are transported throughout South

raw material is

Africa at the most competitive rates and

highly regarded in

delivery times.

the cosmetics industry

Botanica was established in 2009

components, primarily the triterpene alcohol esters, due to their bioactive

DID YOU KNOW?

because of its high emollient and moisturisation benefits and its

commercial producer of Bulbine Frutescens

occlusive lipid replacement ability. The

leaf juice. It has introduced this product to

semisolid character of traditional non-

the global cosmetics industry as a soothing,

fractionated shea butter gives a buttery

healing and moisturising active ingredient.

consistency and easy spread-ability

Michel Colson and Will Coetsee founded

on skin. Sometimes, the fractionated

the company in 2008. Colson has more

oil phase is preferred since liquid oil is

than 40 years’ experience in the European

more easily formulated into a skin care

and African cosmetics industries and was

cream or surfactant-based products

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

properties. It is believed that

Botanica first imported Argan oil from producers in south west Morocco in 2009 to distribute among local cosmetics producers. It currently imports and distributes more than 1 000kg of 100 percent pure, organically certified Argan oil per annum for its South African customers.

and gained attention as the world’s first

12

Although the moisturising properties

the unsaponifiable content is beneficial for healing damaged skin.

Botanica’s organically certified shea butter is

Botanica’s Moringa plantation

COMPANY FOCUS A teacher and learners from Ramaahlo Primary School, Botanica’s benefit sharing partner

harvested and produced in Burkina Faso

product portfolio by adding

and mechanically refined in Germany.

100 percent pure Moringa

The company works directly with the

oil. So, the company grew its

cooperatives in Burkina Faso to develop the

10ha plantation of organically

knowledge and applications of shea butter

certified Bulbine Frutescens, by

for the cosmetics industry.

planting 6 000 Moringa trees.

Liquid gold

used by the ancient Egyptians,

Similar to shea butter in West and Central

Greeks and Romans for a

Africa, the production of Argan oil is an

wide variety of nutritional and

activity restricted to women, either as

cosmetics purposes, leading

individuals or within co-operatives.

to it being labelled ‘the

Moringa oleifera has been

Argan trees (Argania spinosa) grow

miracle tree’.

in well-defined geographical areas and

Moringa oil is obtained by

cannot be planted in other parts of the

cold-pressing the seeds of the

world. One hectare of Argan can produce

tree. The seeds contain up

up to 800kg of mature nuts, which in turn

to 40 percent oil, which has

yield about 13ℓ of Argan oil. For this reason,

tremendous cosmetics value

the product is called ‘liquid gold’.

and is used in body and hair

Current cosmetics interest in Argan oil for skin and hair care applications is due to its main features, including: •v itamin A (retinol) – the oil contains carotenes (of which about 50 percent are beta-carotene), which is the initiator

care as a moisturiser and skin conditioner.

Moringa is also used as a carrier-oil in the fragrances and essential oils market.

The oil is widely recognised

of vitamin A. Retinol acts directly on the

and highly prized for its

derma to increase skin elasticity, making it

antioxidant and skin rejuvenating

essential in reducing wrinkles and acting

properties. It is so rich in vitamin E

as an anti-ageing active.

that it stabilises collagen, repairs

•v itamin E (tocopherol) – it has twice as

damaged skin cells and helps prevent

much tocopherols as olive oil (63mg per

the reoccurrence of blemishes and

100g Argan oil versus 32mg per 100g

minimise dark spots from acne and

olive oil). Tocopherols are powerful anti-

hyperpigmentation. Due to its excellent

oxidants, free-radical scavengers and a

moisturising, nourishing and emollient

natural anti-inflammatory.

properties, Moringa oil has recently

• l inoleic acid (omega 6) – because of

has been supported by the German government, the Industrial Development Corporation and Anglo American’s Zimele fund. •

been included in formulations by

its high C18:2 content, Argan oil plays

established brands like L’Oréal, Garnier

an important role in stimulating oxygen

and The Body Shop.

exchange through the cell barrier.

Moringa oil is so rich in vitamin E that it stabilises collagen, repairs damaged skin cells and helps prevent the reoccurrence of blemishes

Botanica has also augmented its own production by establishing

A miracle ingredient

an out-grower network, which will

After seeing the positive reaction to its

directly benefit more than 300

Argan oil, Botanica decided to expand its

people in rural Limpopo. This project

Botanica Natural Products – www.timola.co.za

Proud MICRO-BIOLOGICAL consulting and testing service to Botanica.

M.C.C. (Medical control council) authorised facility.

Contact details:

Physical Address: 50 Hennie Alberts Street, Brackenhurst, Alberton Tel: 011-867-2059 Email: labserve@mweb.co.za www.labserve.co.za

LBS.indd 2

2016/07/29 8:06 AM

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

13

SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment

Where balance

matters most

Today, microbiota is considered one of the sentinels commanded by skin’s defense system.

Jean-François Molina from Solabia discusses prebiotics and probiotics and how these ingredients are changing the approach to skin care.

M

icrobiota is now being given

2015 by a Japanese team

a lot of attention defeating

demonstrated its benefits

the taboo that bacteria

on maintaining hydration4.

are an enemy. Thanks to

and food supplements and functional

Improving skin’s natural defenses

foods, the cosmetics industry has logically

The skin uses various

found itself at the crossroads due to a

biological defense

cross-sector approach.

mechanisms when the

growing interest, which started with health

Cutaneous Microbiota can neither be

stratum corneum is

defined in a specific way nor generalised.

impaired or broken. Its

Each person has their own microbiotic ID

innate immune system

that has developed over time. Each cm2 of

induces responses

skin contains one million microorganisms

such as phagocytosis

with hundreds of specific species, making

by neutrophils and

it an important ecosystem. However,

macrophages or the induction, particularly

Solabia, is the guarantor of a sustainable

difficulty lies in differentiating the good

by the keratinocytes, of the synthesis of

ecology and formulated in many skin,

microorganisms from the bad.

antimicrobial peptides5, 6 or AMP (the

hair and personal care and intimate

defensins, in particular hBD2 and hBD3,

hygiene products.

Commensal or resident bacteria are

Figure 1: Immunostaining of defensins 3 (fluorescent green) after topical application of placebo versus test cream formulated with Ecoskin

considered beneficial in the common

cathelicidins LL37) in addition to constitutive

discourse delivered to consumers.

AMP peptides (Rnase, psoriasin, lactoferrin

Pre/probiotic complex

Facing them are transient, undesirable

and dermcidin).

With consumer interest in probiotics being more prevalent than prebiotics, Solabia

and/or pathogenic bacteria. These

Solabia, represented locally by Vantage

opportunistic bacteria can become

South Africa, became interested in skin flora

has continued its research and developed

harmful or induce disorders when the

and maintaining its balance almost 20 years

a symbiotic active ingredient, combining

host’s defenses are weakened. Skin can

ago. Specialising in enzymatic biocatalysis,

two prebiotics and two probiotic bacteria

also contain pathogenic bacteria, for

the company developed an original

(Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus

example Staphylococcus aureus, which

method to produce a specific enzyme by

casei) in an inactivated form. The result

is part of their commensal flora without

fermentation (glucosyl-transferase) and then

is Ecoskin.

developing damage.

in activating the enzyme on substrates of

Propionibacterium acnes and Corynebacterium xerosis are bacteria linked

plant origin to obtain prebiotics.

Prebiotics are oligosaccharides that

In addition to its ability to interact on microbiota bio-selectivity, the gluco-oligosaccharides and fructo-

to oily skin problems or the development of

have bio-selectivity with respect to

oligosaccharides (obtained after pressing

bad odours. These microorganisms are not

microbiota. In the present case, these are

the yacón tubers, Polymnia sonchifolia),

considered pathogenic, but their harmful

gluco-oligosaccharides (Bioecolia) acting

have demonstrated stimulatory properties of

action is related to the composition of

as selective substrates to promote the

the synthesis of antimicrobial peptides (see

development of microbiota to counteract

Figure 1) of type β-defensin 2 and β-defensin

undesirable microorganisms associated with

3 (+71 percent versus a placebo). The

skin disorders.

presence of lactobacilli also enhances the

microbiota surrounding them.

Staphylococcus epidermidis, which you often hear about in the cosmetics

The selectivity of Bioecolia is linked to the

industry, can induce

presence of specific bonds of types α-(1-6)

Evaluated against a placebo on a panel

and α-(1-2) between the constituent glucose

of volunteers with very dry skin, Ecoskin

units, metabolised faster and more efficiently

enhances skin’s radiance by reducing

by the commensal resident flora. This is then

the average depth of the micro-furrows,

acne prone

reinforced or improved on the cutaneous

restructuring skin via its micro-depression

skin3, while

surface rather than the opportunistic flora.

network, nourishing it and reducing feelings

a study in

Bioecolia, a signature active ingredient from

of discomfort.

significant skin infections and is found in

14

immune protection of the skin.

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment

It was from this observation that Solabia

Figure 2: Structure of Teflose (60 percent rhamnose)

Universal in application (soothing care,

glycobiology, developed

deodorants, care for sensitive skin or atopic

Teflose, a polysaccharide

dermatitis, care for oily skin and personal

with a high concentration

hygiene etc.), Teflose can be combined

of rhamnose (see Figure

with prebiotics, the latter promoting

2), a sugar having specific

maintenance of the microbiota while this

affinity for epidermal cell

anti-adhesion shield prevents

receptors. This molecule

the establishment of opportunist bacteria on the skin. •

the skin to limit the adhesion of opportunistic

and the mucous membranes uses adhesion

bacteria, like an anti-microbial shield,

factors associated with specialised structures

reducing discomfort.

present on the bacteria surface, with the

attacks (e.g. Interleukin-8).

Research, specialising in

plays the role of a coating on the surface of The colonisation of the cutaneous area

specific mediators, particularly bacterial

Tested on reconstructed epidermis after

ability to bind to specific receptors of skin’s

topical application, Teflose confirmed

cells. Fighting against the microbial adhesion

its affinity for the skin by decreasing

of opportunistic bacteria is an additional

the adhesion of Propionibacterium

means of defense to limit the proliferation of

acnes, Staphylococcus aureus and

undesirable or even pathogenic bacteria

Staphylococcus epidermidis. Other studies

and maintain the cutaneous microbiota.

have also emphasised its ability to reduce

The adhesion factors are different according

the biofilm formed by certain bacteria.

to the bacteria. Among them are bacterial

The rhamnose composition of Teflose is

lectins, which are capable of binding to

not limited to anti-microbial adhesion;

receptors of epidermal cell membranes. The

with 60 percent of this rare sugar, the

adhesion process can also come from the

polysaccharide exhibits anti-inflammatory

lectins having a specific affinity for sugars7.

properties by regulating the release of

*References available on request

ABOUT Jean-François Molina is the sales and marketing director at the Solabia Group, a French company that specialises in active ingredients using biotechnology, fine chemistry and vegetal extraction.

Solabia – www.solabia.com Vantage South Africa – www.vantagespecialties.com

www.vantagegrp.com 011 3140912 - wayne@lipo.co.za - kim@lipo.co.za

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

15

SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment

The first step in

clinical evaluation CEL, located at the North-West University (NWU), is expanding its current business and research models to offer increased value to brand owners and manufacturers.

C

osmetics and personal care is

product. This has led to the appointment of a

an incredible industry driven by

project dedicated CRA and clinical team at CEL

innovation. Competition is fierce

for such studies.

with prices and target markets

where skin irritancy potential or skin mildness

As per regulatory requirements, it is agreed

claims are investigated, to substantiate the

that cosmetics and personal care products

use of ‘clinically tested’ or ‘proven mildness’ on

should not contain any pharmaceutical active

label claims.

ingredients. Permitted ‘bioactive’ ingredients may

To ensure shorter lead times and more cost-

not therapeutically alter the biological function

effective services, CEL has the following pre-

of the skin. However, some products almost cross

scheduled testing dates available for 2018:

the line between cosmetics and therapeutic

• s kin tolerance and compatibility (safety)

products and may possibly incur a regulatory re-

- 5 to 9 and 12 to 16 March

classification from cosmetic to medicine.

- 23 to 27 July

It is clearly stated that cosmetics products

- 30 to 3 August • s kin barrier repair (efficacy)

should not and may not claim to cure or treat pathological skin conditions. So the challenge remains to develop an innovative product with ‘permitted’ pharmacological action without the risk of being labelled a ‘medicine’. Cosmetics should also

Sample preparation for testing at CEL

These in vivo safety assessments include tests

varying significantly.

be deemed safe for use.

How can CEL help you?

Protocols utilised by CEL are aimed at

DID YOU KNOW?

- 7 to 16 and 21 to 30 May - 3 to 12 September - 17 to 26 September.

All clinical trials are only performed once ethical Toxicity testing facility clearance is obtained from the To assist R&D scientists and NWU Research Ethics Council regulatory departments with high (NWU-HREC). The NWU-HREC is throughput safety screening assays registered with the National Health Research and information, CEL is excited to Ethics Council. announce that a new in vitro toxicity

either the safety or efficacy assessment of topical products. Clinical efficacy trials are mainly

testing facility has been established at NWU. The cells cultured for the in vitro toxicity tests are

performed to investigate label claims. While

human keratinocytes. These are the main type

safety trials are reserved for skin tolerance and

of cells in the epidermis and their main function

compatibility investigations, the laboratory has

is protection.

identified the irritation patch test as a basic, or first step in vivo clinical evaluation for a market ready

This unit offers cytotoxicity assessments of the active ingredients and excipients used in a formulation, tested on in vitro skin cultures.

These tests include the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) and lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) assays. The MTT assay uses cell viability as the endpoint and is based on mitochondrial reduction of tetrazolium salt into formazan crystals. So, the MTT assay is a colourimetric assay utilised to determine cell metabolic activity. For the lactate LDH assay test membrane integrity, the cytotoxicity assay is based on the measurement of activity of LDH released from damaged cells.

The combination of these two tests give an indication of acute cytotoxicity of the ingredients used in cosmetics, personal care and other pharmaceutical products. •

CEL – anina.vanderwalt@nwu.ac.za

16

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment

Calcium hydroxyapatite and skin Hydroxyapatite, a nutritious element, is present in the body and food as an organic and non-organic component.

This element also plays an important role in cosmetics.

S

everal studies have shown this mineral may improve skin health

Actives for skin protection are not always

18 percent and for SPF 50, by approximately

well known that any foreign substances

two percent. In the case of UVAPF the

(such as chemical sunscreen filters) applied

differences were negligible. However, the

to the skin tend to diffuse deep down and

requested UVA/UVB ratio was reached.

interfere with skin metabolism. This activity

protection with performances comparable

insoluble solids (inorganic filters).

or even better than TiO2 with no blue-white

When particle dimensions are very small,

appearance. It also offers better texture

the delivery of substances deep down

than TiO2 while Kalilight decreases skin

is increased.

roughness, increases skin elasticity and

Sometimes this leads to problems of skin intolerance and loss of efficacy, mainly

action and free radicals. The

when active ingredients are meant to

characteristic of hydroxyapatite as a slow

develop their functions only while staying

release source of phosphate and calcium

on the skin’s surface. With Apalight, a new

ions contribute to its use as an anti-ageing

skin-friendly micro-dispersed solid active,

skin care active.

significant sun

302/08/00, when compared to placebo,

The new sun care agent can enhance UV

has also been demonstrated for micronised

and protect it from oxygen

As described by ISPE in the study

nine percent. For SPF 30, by approximately

as skin friendly as one might imagine. It is

provides a soft-focus effect. •

Kalichem Italia – www.kalichem.it Orkila South Africa – www.orkila.com

protection can be achieved.

four weeks of hydroxyapatite (Apalight) in skin roughness (-9.5 percent, p<0.05; see

Sunscreen efficacy

Figure 1) as well as a significant increase

In vivo tests were

of skin elasticity, particularly biological

performed to

elasticity (+10.3 percent, p<0.05; se Figure 2)

evaluate the

and the viscous elasticity coefficient (-17.1

sunscreen efficacy

percent, p<0.01; data not shown).

of Apalight

application showed a significant decrease

The most interesting result was the

compared to

soft-focus effect. After the hydroxyapatite

titanium dioxide

application, six volunteers out of 10

(TiO2). Three

showed a decrease in fine lines, while

formulations

three out of 10 showed a reduction in deep

containing the

wrinkle volume.

same quantity of

Hydroxyapatite particles have a wide

Apalight and TiO2

irregular surface, full of protrusions

were tested: six

and cavities, which may host active

percent in Colipa

biomolecules. So, the system can be used

standard P3 (SPF

as a biocompatible delivery system able

15); four percent

to regulate the release of actives onto the

in the sunscreen

skin. Based on this discovery, Kalichem

product with SPF

Italia, represented in South Africa by Orkila,

30 and five percent

has developed Kalilight (functionalised

in the sunscreen

hydroxyapatite), a new and fully dermo-

product with

compatible brightening agent.

SPF 50.

Sun care and face care

the evaluations

Calcium hydroxyapatite also demonstrated

showed an

good efficacy in sun protection and can be

increase in the SPF

considered a physical filter. This led to the

values. With the

development of Apalight – a biologically

Colipa standard,

compatible physical sunscreen with skin

the increase was

forming properties.

by approximately

Figure 1: Skin roughness (-9.5% [p<0.05])

In all cases,

Figure 2: Skin elasticity (+10.3% [p<0.05])

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

17

SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment

A truly

beautiful

Avroy Shlain’s supply chain is essential to ensuring consumers remain at the heart of its successful direct selling business.

This was highlighted at the SAPICS breakfast for Women in Supply Chain hosted at the cosmetics and skin care company’s head office. By Abby Vorster

supply chain

At the breakfast, Roberts shared some of the company’s main initiatives and achievements: • customer complaints are down -51 percent over the last two years • to reduce picking errors the supply chain teams removed ‘product description’ from the pick-slip and implemented KPIs and review stats per picker to address any issues

DID YOU KNOW?

Avroy Shlain products on display at the breakfast

T

he company’s supply chain practices revolve around the consumer mindset, which

• where faulty packaging occurred, the company changed suppliers and improved new product development

As a direct selling specialist (NPD) processes and validations business, Avroy Shlain features one • where goods were damaged in of the largest number of distributors transit, Avroy Shlain’s supply chain throughout South Africa, Namibia and Botswana. It was also voted teams reviewed and changed one of the top three Beauty and processes and shipper packaging Cosmetic Brands in 2013 • the company has implemented by the Sunday Times.

is why Avroy Shlain looks at its

business from their point of view with one clear goal in mind – consumer satisfaction. This is to

a proper call centre and customer

care helpdesk • its web-based system and functionality are continually enriched.

create a seamless end-to-end supply chain.

Carin Roberts, operations director at Avroy

Ensuring high levels of performance

Shlain, explains: ‘In the last five years the

‘At Avroy Shlain our supply chain initiatives are

business has doubled in size. Working in such

centred on enhanced collaboration and constant

a dynamic environment requires that our

adjustments or changes to build a competitive

supply chain teams continuously improve

advantage,’ comments Roberts.

service levels and create value.’

One such change was to reduce the NPD process by five weeks because of better

Members who attended the SAPICS breakfast for Women in Supply Chain were taken on a tour of Avroy Shlain’s warehouse situated in Midrand

18

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

collaboration between the technical, marketing and sales teams as well as third party suppliers.

The company has also implemented innovation

Elaine Stewar t, me mbership and business developm ent at SAPICS; Tonya Lamb, SAPICS group sales and marketing ma nager, with Carin Roberts

SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment

stock control, resulting in the best stock-take result in its history (R1 000 variance).

Rebranding a legacy brand Avroy Shlain rebranded earlier this year, revealing a days with suppliers and launched a supplier

modernised brand positioning and a new

recognition programme. Avroy Shlain’s

tagline: ‘True Beauty Shines’. This is in line

procurement department uses three main

with its vision to inspire and empower those it

categories to manage its current pool of

touches through relationships, opportunities

suppliers: maintain; develop and review exit.

and products to create a beautiful Africa.

‘With these clear guidelines and ongoing

Shira Evan, marketing director at Avroy

collaboration, we have seen a significant

Shlain, comments: ‘True beauty comes

improvement (+15 percent) in our vendor

from within. We believe having a passion for

performance scorecard versus previous

life, inspiring others, being confident and

years,’ she explains.

respecting yourself and the world you live in

Other achievements include the highest

A BRIEF LOOK AT SAPICS THIS PROFESSIONAL KNOWLEDGE-BASED association enables individuals and organisations to improve business performance. SAPICS builds supply chain excellence in individuals and enterprises through superior education and training, internationally recognised certifications, comprehensive resources and a countrywide network of accomplished industry professionals.

This network is ever expanding and now includes associates in other African countries. SAPICS is also a proud APICS exclusive premier channel partner for sub-Saharan Africa and a representative of multiple organisations, including the Demand Driven Institute and the Institute of Business Forecasting & Planning.

is what true beauty is all about. That’s why

number of units picked in a single shift

we create beauty products for all women in

(100 000 units via fine picking) thanks to

Africa to enhance their natural beauty, so

the company’s successful and ongoing

improved pick line balancing, continuous

they can look as beautiful as they feel.’

transition in empowering women

training of pickers and reviewing bottlenecks.

With tighter location management and

The company also launched a new look website (www.avroyshlain.co.za) and is

updating its stock receiving process within

using social media platforms to engage with

the warehouse, Avroy Shlain’s supply chain

women on what ‘True Beauty Shines’ means

teams have also increased the company’s

to them.

The Avroy Shlain rebranding represents

while telling a story that speaks to a diverse community. •

SAPICS – www.sapics.org

Crest Chemicals

For all around Beauty you can trust.

T. +27 (0) 11 254 3433 | M. +27 (0) 83 297 0655 E.Angelique.Myburgh@crestchem.co.za 247 15th Road, Randjespark, Midrand, 1685, South Africa PO Box 4280, Midrand, 1685, South Africa crestchem.co.za

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

19

SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment

BACK TO BASICS with tutti foodie Lipotec, represented locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, is bringing the benefits of superfoods to skin care with its Actiphyte line of botanical extracts. By Rosalía Mantilla, Cristina Davi, Elena Cañadas, Sylesh Venkataraman, Raquel Delgado

C

onsumers are growing

skin to provide a youthful and glowing look

increasingly concerned about

and reduce signs of eczema, psoriasis

their environmental footprint.

and blemishes.

They also seek safe and

A few carefully sourced, natural ingredients are preferred over a long list of unpronounceable ones

healthy products providing a positive effect on their body. As a result, a few carefully

sourced, natural ingredients are preferred over a long list of unpronounceable ones.

Superfoods are a megatrend in the

health care and beauty industries, forming part of a more general movement towards using traditional food components as cosmetics ingredients. The ancient Chinese believed well-rounded nutrition

was needed to achieve a balanced yin and

Green: photo-protection and anti-inflammatory Persea gratissima is the source of Actiphyte avocado. Ancient Mayans used avocados to soothe damaged skin. The presence

Its cosmetics properties, according to

of polyhydroxylated fatty alcohols in this

yang, incorporating ingredients from these

literature, show pomegranate can act as a

superfood may protect skin cells from

five colour families: red; yellow/orange;

cofactor for prolyl and lysysl hydroxylases,

UVB-induced damage and help inhibit

green; blue/purple and white/ brown.

which stimulate fibroblasts to produce

inflammation8. It can also present possible

Following the traditional multicoloured

collagen and help prevent early signs of

moisturising and healing properties, making

diet, a selection of food-inspired Actiphyte

wrinkles3. It may also protect skin against

it a great candidate for sun damaged skin9.

botanical extracts is presented. Each

the effects of UV-radiation and prevent

comprises powerful compounds such

collagen from becoming susceptible

became a panacea for many different

as vitamins, antioxidants, minerals and

to damage4.

conditions, including gastric upset, tetanus

phytochemicals among others. Benefiting

In Ancient Greek literature, broccoli

and skin infections. Actiphyte broccoli

Yellow/orange: antioxidant and free-radical fighter

is extracted from Brassica oleracea

Actiphyte ginger is an extract of Zingiber

to upregulate the cells own defenses

Red: anti-ageing and wrinkle prevention

officinale. Ginger root has been used for

against UV damage10. This vegetable

centuries in Chinese herbal medicine for

is also rich in CoQ10, helping to restore

Actiphyte beet is an extract of the Beta

its positive effects on the body, as well

collagen and elastin levels in the skin’s

Vulgaris root, a herbaceous biennial plant

as to enhance herbal combinations.

cells, aiming to slow down premature sun-

initially cultivated by the Romans before it

The presence of shogaols and gingerols

induced ageing11.

spread throughout Europe and Asia.

may act as a promising radical

from the best that nature has to offer, these natural extracts can fulfill all the skin needs.

italic. The sulforaphane in broccoli helps

scavenging and soothing agent to

Blue/purple: nurturing

as a cheek and lip stain because of its

alleviate irritated skin. It may also assist in

Aubergine or eggplant is a species of

vigorous rosy colour. It was also used to treat

counteracting skin damage and presents

nightshade belonging to Solanaceae

digestion and blood-related conditions.

antimicrobial properties5.

genus. Actiphyte eggplant is extracted

In the 19th century, women used beet

According to literature, beet can act as

Actiphyte grapefruit is an extract of Citrus

from this glossy, purple vegetable, which

a promising producer of hyaluronic acid1.

grandis. Grapefruit extract was historically

contains zinc and magnesium. These

The presence of betalains also neutralises

used by the Chinese to fortify and refresh

minerals assist in the production of

free radicals and helps prevent wrinkles and

the lungs and spleen. According to

hyaluronic acid, helping skin retain its

fine lines2.

literature, the astringent and soothing

water and maintaining smoothness and

properties of this citrus fruit could act as

elasticity12. The presence of vitamins and

granatum) is inspired by the traditional

an antioxidant agent to combat bacterial

anthocyanins aids in improving skin’s glow13.

knowledge of ancient Greeks and

growth, helping to purify skin and making it

Egyptians. They applied pomegranate on

suitable for delicate skin types6,7.

Actiphyte pomegranate (Punica

20

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

Actiphyte acai berry is the extract of the Euterpe oleracea. Historically, Acai

SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment

berry was used by American natives as a

almond was considered a good nutrient for

applied to heal broken bones, sprains

remedy for skin diseases, hemorrhages and

the nervous system. In traditional medicine,

and strains.

bacterial borne diseases. The tribes of the

almond oil has been used to improve

Amazon commonly used it to remove snake

complexion and skin tone.

venom from the body.

According to literature, in skin care quinoa is expected to present anti-acne

Oil extracted from this nut can help to

properties, mostly due to its saponins

stabilise the amount of sebum secreted

content, which can decrease sebum

presence of omega fatty acids, the acai

by sebaceous glands, improving the

production. The seed may also present

berry may work as a nurturing ingredient

appearance of oily skin16. It may also

magnesium and zinc, assisting to relieve

to revitalise dry skin14. It could also protect

assist in inhibiting the proinflammatory

blemishes and scars caused by acne18. It

against and eliminate free radicals with

cytokines that cause comedones and in

is also known to assist in soothing skin and

its anthocyanins and polyphenols. These

maintaining cutaneous hydration levels17.

decrease inflammation conditions due to

compounds, together with the vitamins

Almond presents possible antioxidant and

acne vulgaris and rosacea, thanks to its

A, C and E, can aid in regenerating and

anti-inflammatory effects, making it a great

content in ascorbic acid19. •

illuminating skin15.

candidate for oily and acne-prone skin.

White/brown: sebum and acne control

Chenopodium quinoa seed, is ideal to

Actiphyte almond is extracted from the nuts

skin. This common edible seed has high

of Prunus amygdalus dulcis. In Ayurveda,

mineral content. Traditionally, it was

According to literature, because of the

Actiphyte quinoa, extracted from purify imperfections for flawless looking

*References available on request

Lipotec – www.lipotec.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

21

SKIN CARE//Anti-ageing & Scar Treatment

Trends driving rapid innovation Kunal Kumar, Evonik’s marketing manager for

personal care, North America, shares two ways in which consumers’ behaviour and expectations are shifting and impacting technology and products.

T

he focus now is on experiences

magic cream to milk skin care concept

to North America, while UV-defense has the

rather than accumulating things. In

uses milk-like droplets, which break on

strongest demand in Asia and Europe.

experiential beauty and personal

the skin to unleash moisturising and

care, formulators and brands

brightening benefits.

have sought to create new and interesting

Other uniquely textured formulations from

formulations depend upon the region.

textures in products for enhanced

the company include a luxurious Whipped

Understanding these differences can

engagement. Novel textures, often inspired

Cream and a Cooling Balm (see Table 1),

greatly enhance brand-building and

by the Asian market, include ice cream and

which transforms from solid to cream with a

marketing success.

mousse concepts.

perceived cooling effect upon application.

Evonik has created Shape Memory W/O

Perhaps no region has been considered a greater trend influencer in recent years

gel, which boasts a self-levelling ability to

Borderless beauty

than Asia. Sleeping masks from Asia have

give the consumer the impression of a ‘fresh

In the age of the internet and social media,

created new demand in Europe and

start’ before each use. Its transformative

trends spread faster and wider than ever.

North America. Asian consumers are also

Table 1: Transformation Cooling Balm

Phase

A

B

C

seeking out masks in peel-off, wash-off

beauty concepts

and hydrating leave-on formats, as well as

w/w %

have become

products that offer whitening, anti-ageing

Abil EM 180 (CetylPEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone)

0.40

homogenised. Brands

and skin radiance.

TegoSoft SH (StearylHeptanoate)

8.00

Cyclopentasiloxane/Cyclohexasiloxane

12.00

must take global

Ozokerite (KahlWax4511N)

5.00

Microcrystalline Wax

1.00

Water

59.70

Glycerin

3.00

1.3-Butylene Glycol

10.00

Sodium Chloride

0.20

Phenoxyethanol; Ethylhexylglycerin (EuxylPE 9010)

0.70

including improvement of hair gloss

22

But that doesn’t mean

Ingredients

The solid-like consistency is obtained by the combination of waxes and high internal water content while TegoSoft SH contributes to the perceived cooling effect

amino acid with

Texture is also culture-specific and preferences between light and rich

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

In the US, women are looking for

trends and manifest

products that offer a detox effect, as

them locally while

well as multifunctional beauty offerings

taking cognisance of

where skin care and makeup concepts

the categories leading

merge. Evonik has developed a demo

in each region. For

formulation, Brilliant Tone-up Cream,

example, hair care

which offers moisturisation and skin

comprises a far bigger

tone enhancement. •

portion of the market in Africa and Latin America, compared

Evonik – www.evonik.com

QUALITY CONTROL

A versatile solution for measuring light

Light meters for measuring ambient light in lux, fc or cd/m² are important when determining good lighting conditions in laboratories or other illuminated areas to guarantee optimal results.

T

he Goldilux range of light

laboratory environment or in the most

meters are manufactured

challenging field settings such as

and produced in South Africa

mines. The autoranging light meters

by Measuring Instruments

are accurate, hand-held instruments

Technology (MIT). They have been

with excellent photopic correction and

available on the market since 1989,

directional response.

are accompanied with a SANAS accredited calibration certificate and intrinsically safe. Goldilux instruments are a South African development based on the Absolute Radiometer, a successful research project pioneered in the country to validate a new definition

The solid state photosensitive

DID YOU KNOW?

detector is a long-lasting, stable silicon photodiode with excellent linearity.

Optional attachments

MIT was launched 25 years ago and accessories

by Margie Hengstberger. Together include a wide variety with her team of engineers, optical specialists and consultants, she serves of remote probes, a a diverse customer base, offering a carrying case and a wide range of word-class scientific remote hold cable. instrumentation to measure light, radiation, colour Ultraviolet and and intensity.

of the unit of light. The Commission Internationale de

phototherapy meters

The Goldilux range of ultraviolet

The Goldilux range of UV meters from MIT

water and food sterilisation. UV-B and UV-C radiation is harmful to the eyes and skin.

Phototherapy meters are used for

l’Éclairage or CIE, the international

meters are developed for a

monitoring the blue lights used in

body governing light measurement,

multitude of applications requiring

incubators for jaundiced newborn

globally adopted this new definition

measurement of the spectral ranges

babies. The effective wavelength range

based on a primary physical unit

of UV-A (330 to 400nm), UV-B (250to

is critical but the Goldilux Bilirubin meter

resulting in the commercialisation of

320nm), and UV-C (225 to 280nm).

is suitable for all types of blue-light

the Goldilux instruments.

Applications for the UV-A meters are in

installations. Calibration certificates are

the printing industry and laboratories

also supplied with the instruments. •

General purpose light meters

where curing of materials is done. The

Goldilux light meters are stable,

shortwave UV-C radiation is used for

robust and can be used in any

germicidal applications in medicine,

Measuring Instruments Technology

Leading Through Quality and Innovation

MIT – www.marmit.co.za

Manufacturing the Goldilux Range • Large LCD display

• Hold function to freeze the reading

ULTRAVIOLET METERS Quality and Reliability for various applications (e.g. GUV, NDT etc).

• Stand-alone meter can also be used for plug-in of external probes for UV and/or white light • Analog output • Robust • High stability of reading (within 1% over 12 months) compared to 30% drift over 6 months on some competitors’ instruments • Supplied with accredited calibration certificate valid for 12 months

Tel: +27 12 349 5191 | Fax: +27 12 349 5190 | Cell: +27 82 784 2011 | Email: info@marmit.co.za | www.marmit.co.za

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

23

QUALITY CONTROL

Microbiological quality management

raw materials, wash water and finished products. This single long-term preservative may get the job done, however it may be time-consuming and the cost of long-term preservation can be quite high. This is why many manufacturers use

Stagnant water in all pipes may contain bacterial counts >106cfu/mℓ, representing a certain level of risk in manufacturing. Schülke offers a fastacting two in one in-can preservative, based on a synergistic combination of benzisothiazolone (BIT), methylisothiazolone (MIT) and laurylamine dipropylenediamine (BDA) with a broad spectrum of efficacy.

M

additional agents to treat raw materials and process water in order to avoid contamination within the manufacturing process.

This approach can be inconvenient, expensive and does not ensure comprehensive process and product security. To overcome these challenges, Schülke, represented in South Africa

by Savannah Fine Chemicals, offers a product solution that: • t reats contaminated process water and raw materials • e nables extensive process hygiene

icrobial contamination of a

• p rovides synergistic in-can preservation.

product can occur during the manufacturing process, with the

An innovative blend

majority of contaminants being

Parmetol MBX is based on BDA, a fast-acting

Parmetol MBX killed all ® MBX parmetol microbes within five to parmetol® MBX-Concept 10various minutes There are sources of microbial contamination in a

present in many different sources, such as:

amine, and MIT/BIT. It is suitable for in-can

• water

preservation and kills bacteria, yeasts and

• raw materials

moulds within process water or raw materials in

• vessels, bulk tanks and plumbing lines

only a few minutes. At the same time, it offers

• b iofilms

long-term protection ensuring a well preserved

• ion exchanger resins and reverse

finished product.

osmosis membranes.

There are various sources of microbial

Moderate temperatures, neutral pH and

contamination in a manufacturing process, like

neglected housekeeping tend to cause and

stagnant water in pipes and raw materials, which

schülke’s new parmetol® MBX-Concept requires the addition of support process and product contamination. can present serious sources of contamination.

manufacturing process: stagnant water in pipes may contain the whole biocide concentration atapproach the very beginning of the There is a common to overcome bacterial counts >106 cfu/ml. In addition serious sources of production process. dueA to the outstanding How to eliminate the risk theseEnabled problems. single ‘quick-killer’ isstability used to and treatparmetol® the contaminated process water contamination are raw materials orof contamination other subsequently added short-term efficacy, MBX guarantees for: and raw biocides are used materials. In most cases, an in-can preservative components. What is the commonOxidising approachand for non-oxidising these problems? to the prevent products from being contaminated to ensure long-term preservation is added within A single “quick-killer” is used to treat contaminated process • A highly effective biocide for pre-contaminated process water by microorganisms.

In addition to bleaching, the last production step of the product. water and raw materials. In most cases the in-can preservative • A security buffer for contaminated raw materials oxidising agents possess some severe Schülke’s new parmetol MBX-concept requires to ensure a long-term preservation is added within the last • Long-term in-can preservation Figure 1: Parmetol MBX disadvantages.

So, many manufacturers use the addition of the whole biocide concentration guarantees production step oflong-term the product. ➜ All in one single product! in-can preservation

non-oxidising in-can preservatives to treat stored

production / application process

addition of raw materials / other components

parmetol® MBX

raw material (contaminated)

at the very beginning of the production process.

finished product + in-can preservation

storage tanks finished product

mixing tank

mixing tank

high/low risk of contamination

low risk of contamination

24 | OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review Test results comparison: parmetol® MBX | MIT/BIT | DBNPA

filling tank

low risk of contamination

Candida albicans (ATCC 10231)

QUALITY CONTROL

Key benefits of parmetol MBX O nly one dose of parmetol MBX at the very beginning of the production process is necessary to prevent or minimise the effect of contamination during the entire manufacturingprocess.

T he blend provides safer manufacturing procedures and the opportunity to eliminate quarantine time, product recalls and downtime issues. It also reduces blocking of filling lines by

Spectroscopic Solutions for the Validated Pharmaceutical Industry

contaminated products.

Parmetol MBX allows for sustainable use of raw materials due to low use concentrations.

T he preservative blend complies with the standards of various ecolabels.

This is enabled by its outstanding stability and shortterm efficacy.

Parmetol MBX is a highly effective biocide for precontaminated process water, a security buffer for contaminated raw materials and offers long-term in-

ALPHA

FTIR Spectrometer www.bruker.com/alpha

TANGO

FT-NIR Spectrometer www.bruker.com/tango

can preservation.

Fast-acting biocides, the so called ‘quickkillers’, are common within several applications, such as the combination of dimethylol glycol, methylchloroisothiazolone and methylisothiazolone or 2.2-Dibromo-3-nitrilopropionamide (DBNPA), to name a few.

Since formaldehyde releasers and halogenated organic compounds are not accepted by all ecolabels and test magazines, like Germany’s ÖKO-TEST, the challenge is to develop a fast-acting preservative with long-term protection based on widely accepted ingredients. Due to extensive

BRAVO

Handheld Raman Spectrometer www.bruker.com/bravo

research, BDA was recognised as an excellent synergistic molecule for today’s standard soft preservatives based on MIT in combination with BIT.

Test conditions and results Dilutions of three preservatives containing different concentrations of either DBNPA, MIT/BIT or parmetol MBX were prepared using sterile hard water (according to the European standard for testing chemical disinfectants and antiseptics) and inoculated with standard microorganisms

OPUS Software supports traceable Reference Standards Instrument Qualification according to USP, PhEur, JP Internal Validation Unit (IVU) for automated OQ & PQ Full 21 CRF part 11 support for Data Security, Integrity, Traceability

(approximately 105cfu/mℓ). The dilutions were streaked onto tryptone soya agar (bacteria) or sabourauddextrose agar (fungi) after 30 seconds, and two, five, 10 and 60 minutes. The evaluation was made based on the semi-quantitative assessment of the microbial growth of the streaks.

Within the test period of 60 minutes the conventional mixture of MIT with BIT showed no efficacy even in high use concentrations. Whereas parmetol MBX killed all microbes within five to 10 minutes, accordingly performed much faster than the widely known and extensively used DBNPA. •

Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za Schülke – www.schuelke.com

Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FTIR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and costeffective compliance.

Contact us for more details www.bruker.com/optics Innovation with Integrity

FTIR/FT-NIR/Raman

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

25

QUALITY CONTROL

Consistently flexible

Philips high-tech shavers are in great demand and considered premium products. With 200 robots embedded in a groundbreaking assembly concept, the company can maintain its focus on quality, profitability and flexibility.

T

he production of shavers is under an immense cost pressure and the trade offer for the devices is quite large. In combination with factors like quality and design, the purchase decision is also affected by the price.

The assembly of the high-tech shaving devices demands the highest

level of quality, whereas standard shaver models rely mostly on manual

The Omron Adept solution

labour. This demand for a high-quality assembly process has made Philips’ plant in Drachten in the Netherlands turn to automation for

60 different product lines culminate in some 600 single

production. Reliable assembly processes with integrated quality control

products. Thereby the product spectrum changes almost every

assure the highest level of quality of the consumer products.

day,’ says Matthias Schaller, head of robotics at Bremer Werk

At Bremer Werk für Montagesysteme, the specialists have the industry

für Montagesysteme.

expertise and knowledge, but in the case of Philips, there was much more required than pre-existing, proven off-the-rack solutions. ‘The real challenge in finding the right solution for Philips was to accomplish the enormous model variety of the high-end shavers. Currently about

Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions

Philips also insisted on a guaranteed future level of performance of their equipment.

This demand for a highquality assembly process has made Philips turn to automation for production Flexible components from one source How does one build machinery capable of assembling products, when no one knows how they will look and work in the future? Omron Adept had a suitable solution. Automation strategist, Schaller explains: ‘After first analyses, a system concept emerged, which could only work based on extremely flexible automation components from one source. Due to the multitude of assembly stations, a component mix of different manufacturers would have led to an uncontrollable complexity.

Thus, we needed six-axis robots, SCARA robots, vision systems, part feeders and controls – all from a single source. So, we counted on Adept.’

Delta Parallel robot Quattro and Hornet

Articulated robot Viper

SCARA robot eCobra

Mobile robot LD Series

The new Omron Robotic Automation enhances the most demanding manufacturing lines. Realize faster line start-up & change-over, implement easier to use technology & vertical line integration, and facilitate faster data capture & analysis to increase your in-line efficiency.

Our industrial robotics range from articulated, SCARA, and DELTA to collaborative (mobile) robots that optimize the handling of varying lot sizes and diverse products, formats and qualities. Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions that give you a competitive edge!

Discover how to improve your flexible production, contact us: +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za

An innovative production site When the integration of the new lines is complete, more than 200 robots and 70 Adept Anyfeeder systems will provide the frictionless assembly system for the shavers. This sets up the third critical flexibility factor, which was the choice to use Omron Adept products.

Most of the robots on the existing lines were already equipped with vision guidance and all new machines are scheduled to have a vision system. The groundbreaking automation solutions guarantee an economic and efficient assembly of high-end shavers. The sophisticated assembly concept assures an unrivalled level of sustainability and the Philips plant is now one of the most innovative production sites for high-quality shavers. •

robot_88,5x130_p&c_review_ad_enza_01.indd 26 | OCTOBER 2017 | P1 C Review

20-07-17 12:52

Taking responsibility

for providing quality service.

MJ Labs is a contract manufacturer and packer for complementary medicines, health supplements, cosmetics and vitamin fortification. This is done in capsule, powder, cream, liquid, tablet and sachet form for human consumption. New machinery has been introduced which includes a sachet machine, tablet coating machine and an effervescent tablet manufacture and packing operation.

MJ Labs is a proudly South African company established in 1999 by the Managing Member, Johann Cadle. We are situated at Silverton Business Park, 354 Derdepoort Road, Silverton, Pretoria.

MJ Labs adheres to a Quality Management System which are based on the following principles: • Application of processes for quality throughout the entire organization • Continously monitoring the interaction between these processes • Ensure effective operation and management of these processes • Ensure resources and information are readily available • Implement necessary actions to achieve planned results and continuous improvement MJ Labs is registered with: • South African Medicines Control Council • South African Pharmacy Council • South African Department of Health • South African Buro of Standards

Contact us on 012 804 8966 or E-mail: rp@mjlabs.co.za for any queries

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA

A vital link in SA’s manufacturing chain MJ Labs has a proud heritage in South Africa as a manufacturer of world class health supplements and complementary medicines (CAMs). The company has grown extensively over the past 17 years and recently secured its GMP certificate. By Abby Vorster

I

n South Africa, manufacturing is central to boosting economic growth. It creates jobs, drives technological changes and provides a path to development. MJ Labs is one contract

manufacturer and packer that continues to make a positive contribution to the economy, producing CAMs, health supplements and more recently, cosmetics.

The company is also an accredited and registered vitamin fortification manufacturer with the South African Bureau of Standards and Department of Health.

Proud supplier

to MJ Labs

Christelle van Aswegen, MJ Labs’ responsible pharmacist

Capsule filling is a core competency of MJ Labs

More than just a chemical supplier Omnia’s Chemical division, operating under the Protea Chemicals brand, has a wealth of experience and a reputation for excellence in the distribution of speciality, functional effect chemicals and polymers in sub-Saharan Africa.

Protea Chemicals is more than just a chemical supplier, specialising in value-added chemical solutions which touches our lives daily. Quality products supported by strong and reliable local and international suppliers enable Protea Chemicals to be one of the leading companies in almost every sector of the distribution market.

We are proud to say that our market includes personal care and cosmetics, food and beverages, water treatment, engineering, paints and inks, textiles, plastics, rubber, chemical manufacturing and formulation, petroleum and lubrication, packaging and paper, pharmaceuticals and healthcare and animal feeds.

Protea Consumer Care offers a range of products such as Petroleum Jelly, White Oils, Waxes, Oleochemicals, Surfactants, Emulsifiers, Rheology Modifiers, Vitamins, Additives, Fragrances, Plant Oils & Butters and a full range of commodity chemicals in various pack sizes.

Leanne Rossouw: Industry Sector Manager Mobile: + 27 (0)76 683 5615 Tel: +27 11 821 3310 Email: Leanne.Rossouw@proteachemicals.co.za

28

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

General Enquiries: info@proteachemicals.co.za

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA

MJ Labs adheres to a stringent quality management system where all processes are documented

One of the tablet presses at MJ Labs

After capsules are filled, they are cleaned and polished using a polishing machine to remove any excess powder attached to the capsules

customer-centric approach to business. As a result, MJ Labs has kept up with industry and

MJ Labs was first established in 1999 by its

regulatory demands and was

managing member, Johann Cadle. In those early

recently awarded its license and

days, the company operated from a small facility

GMP certificate from the South

located in Kempton Park, Gauteng, yet organic

African Medicines Control Council

growth and expansion over the years saw MJ

(MCC). Prior to this, in 2013 the

Labs relocate to its current premises at Silverton

company received its 9001:2008

Business Park on Derdepoort Road in Pretoria.

ISO accreditation.

Cadle, who has broad pharmaceutical

The journey to certification

experience, has always had a hands-on and

was a long one for MJ Labs, as it

MJ Labs’ manufacturing capacity The company can produce: •1 .2

million capsules per day 000 tablets per day •5 0 000 sachets per day •2 000ℓ/kg of liquids/creams •7 50

per day

•e ight tonnes of fortification premixes per day.

Nutrispec would like to congratulate Johann and his team on their dedication and commitment in achieving their MMC accreditation.

It has been and remains a privilege to be considered a regular supplier of quality raw materials. We wish them continued success in the future.

TEL + 27 12 345 6574 FAX + 27 12 345 3760 EMAIL enquiries@nutrispec.co.za

Your supply partner for Amino Acids & blends; Herbal Extracts; Phyto Chemicals; Vitamins & derivatives; Nutritional Oils (in bulk, powder and soft gels); Proprietary formulated products and other Nutritional Specialties

www.nutrispec.co.za P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

29

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA The tablet coating machine at MJ Labs

DID YOU KNOW?

A mixing vessel for emulsions, creams and lotions

is for most manufacturers in this industry, because all the facility improvements, in line with the MCC’s requirements, were self-funded by the managing member.

Some of the first products manufactured by MJ Labs were Lerumo-Lamadi vitamins and minerals, Immuno Active – the immune system booster, various skin care products and vitamin premixes for bread and maize products.

These include the HVAC, air and water systems,

which ensure the compressed air and water used within the facility are of a pharmaceutical grade.

There have been other changes too; MJ Labs manufacturing facility was initially a lot smaller. However, the company has needed to employ more

people to keep up with customer demand, so the manufacturing facility was relocated to its current location adjacent to the now larger administrative building. MJ Labs’ dispensary has also moved downstairs to accommodate the need for more administrative space, and its production area has undergone extensive renovations and expansion.

World class solutions and services The company’s expertise lies in capsule and tablet manufacturing for CAMs and health supplements.

It also produces high quality ointments, powders, creams and liquids. MJ Labs has further diversified into to produce quality cosmetics products manufactured in a GMP approved facility.

MJ Labs’ state of the art packing facility operates with a HVAC system within epoxy walls and floors.

The manufacturing facility has the capabilities to pack vegetable and gelatin capsules, tablets as well as softgels, which are available in bottles or blister packs. Liquids, creams, ointments and gels are also available, packed in either bottles, tubes or tubs. Its additional services or capabilities include: • hard gelatin capsules • liquid bottles or drops • b anded packs • powders • tablets • b lister packs.

The company is flexible and aims to give brand owners a competitive edge by producing products of excellent quality and taking responsibility for

30

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA One of the many packing lines at MJ Labs

The pharma grade water system

1 800ℓ mixing tank

providing quality service. This allows its customers to focus on their core competencies, like sales, marketing and brand management.

MJ Labs has the infrastructure and equipment to cope with low and high volumes. While it does have a minimum order requirement, this is mainly to establish a profitable outlook for the customer. However, the company is flexible

The company is flexible and aims to give brand owners a competitive edge

when it comes to new or smaller customers and will tailor its minimums to suit their budgets.

Choosing a path to success MJ Labs is a proudly South African company. It provides permanent employment to a wide spectrum of individuals from labourers to highly skilled professionals, all of whom are crucial to the company’s ongoing success. In 1999, Cadle employed eight people and now he employs 75.

There has always been a strong family focus at MJ Labs, which has adopted a matrix operating system that sees all employees treated equally and requires everyone to work together as opposed to operating in silos.

From inception, the company took a strategic decision to develop and keep technology local, providing a continuous path for its growth and creating jobs in a country where rising unemployment numbers are an ongoing challenge.

MJ Labs is proud of its years of manufacturing, customer satisfaction and excellence in quality management. This is because the company adheres to a quality management system based on the following principles: • application of processes for quality throughout the entire organisation • continuously monitoring the interaction between these processes • e nsuring effective operation and management of these processes • e nsuring resources and information are readily available • implementing the necessary actions to achieve planned results and continuous improvement.

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

31

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA

MJ LABS IS REGISTERED WITH: The MCC South African Pharmacy Council The Department of Health South African Bureau of Standards

Bringing customers’ ideas to life MJ Labs’ strongest area of innovation is formulation development. The company has the expertise to transform an idea or basic formulation into a workable, effective and quality product.

It is also one of a few pharmaceutical manufacturers that do tablet coating, including film coating for tablets.

Some of its most recent installations include a sachet packing machine, the tablet coating machine and an effervescent tablet packing machine. The latter is a new area of diversification for MJ Labs, which can now develop formulations for effervescent

Lake Foods supply a range of technology driven and consumer led addi�ves, ingredients and processing aids into the food, beverage and health industries interna�onally i Exclusive supplier of bio-available

tablets. Because these tablets are more sensitive and fragile than standard tablets, the company has installed dehumidifiers to control humidity within the manufacturing environment and the packing

MJ Labs is proud of its years of manufacturing, customer satisfaction and excellence in quality management

collagen peptides and gelatine

JOHANNESBURG +27 (011) 409 5000 MONIQUE BARNARD +27 (072) 587 5052 EMAIL: monique.barnard@lake.co.za WEBSITE: www.lakefoods.co.za The HVAC and air systems at MJ Labs

32

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA

hard MJ Labs’ dedicated and are working employees, who ess central to its ongoing succ

equipment and components to pack effervescent

It is clear MJ Labs is shaping its future by contributing positively to the economy and helping brand owners

tablet products.

Growth and diversification are ongoing for MJ

The micro laboratory at MJ Labs

realise their dreams. With its GMP certificate, the

Labs – its development team is in the process of

company has taken the right steps to succeed

developing an anti-septic liquid soap range for private

in South Africa’s exciting and growing contract

hospitals, which is based on the requirements of the

manufacturing segment. •

Disinfectants Act. It is also looking to branch out into manufacturing pharmaceutical products, with the hope of establishing a dedicated line for this purpose.

MJ Labs – www.mjlabs.co.za

Product sourcing, according to the specifications you require.

Currently active in the Agricultural, Engineering, Nutritional and Pharmaceutical Fields...

Proud to be associated with MJ LABS Tel: +27 60 888 8666 | Email: info@qualisource.co.za | Website: www.qualisource.co.za

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

33

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA

An optimal source of vitamin K2 VitaMK7, the USP grade fermentation-derived vitamin K2 as menaquinone-7, demonstrates greater quality due to its natural origin. This warrants the highest content of all-trans MK7 in terms of the purity profile and stability.

G

nosis has been able to

Gnosis is the direct manufacturer with no

to distribution and administration to

respect the natural features

intermediaries or brokers. The entire supply

of MK7 during more than 10

chain of vitaMK7, from the raw material to

years’ fermentation-derived

the finished large range of vitaMK7 powder/

highest purity (>99 percent), real all-trans

MK7 production carried out in its cGMP

oil grades, is controlled and carried out in

structure (>99 percent) and almost no

manufacturing facility located in Pisticci,

compliance with the guidelines of Gnosis’

impurities. It is a white, odourless, neutral

Italy. The organoleptic qualities have

quality management system, ISO and

tasting and flowable powder that doesn’t

also been improved through advanced

HACCP quality systems. Kosher and Halal

have the bad smell often present in other

fermentation technologies.

certificates are also available. The Pisticci

fermentation-derived or synthetic qualities

operations are also FDA approved.

of MK7.

The proprietary patented production process from Bacillus subtilis natto

sales management.

The result is an optimal MK7 with the

The very high grade of quality and

(EP1803820, US7718407 and JP 5043425) is a

proven reliability are offered by Gnosis

Setting the quality standard

warranty of the origin, quality and safety of

from production to services, preparation to

VitaMK7 is free from all known allergens,

all vitaMK7 products.

processing, storage to logistics, transport

metals and organic solvents, so ‘free

®

Natural vitamin k2 as MK7

Cardiovascular

Natural Natural and SStable tab ble allll fformulations iin na ormula ations

Bone

www.vitamk7.com VitaMK7® NATURALLY derived from Bacillus subtilis ssp natto.

Full-Trans content - enhanced Bio-activity NO chemical, NO synthetic, NO preservatives, Allergen-free and Soy-free.

VitaMK7® recovery rate of MK-7:

• 99% with calcium Carbonate

• 100% Calcium Citrate

• 93% short time light exposure

VitaMK7® meets the USP Standards requirements

Gnosis S.p.A.

Gnosis USA Inc.

Via Lavoratori Autobianchi, 1 20832 Desio (MB) Italy

4259 West Swamp Road, 3rd Floor Suite 305 Doylestown, Pennsylvania 18902 Tel +1.215.340.7960

Tel. +39.0362.48.84.1

34

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

advanced biotech

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA

It is the only vitamin K2 to meet the USP and TGA standard requirements

and characteristics to ensure products fit

Administration, published a note

their purpose.

recognising that the USP menaqui-

The common definition of purity (methodology and requirements to define

none-7 provides the guidance of quality expected for vitamin K2 products.

high quality standards for an ideal vitamin

VitaMK7 not only meets these

K2 ingredient) was effective from 1 August

requirements, its profile also solely

2015, when the first Official Compendia

contributed to the preparation of the

Monograph of Dietary Supplement for

abovementioned monographs, getting

Vitamin K2 was published in the USP

the greater validation to become

38-NF33 First Supplement. It refers to a

the USP Standard Reference. Gnosis

totally naturally derived (no synthetic

exclusively contributed to the drawing

from’ claims can be applied. The

production) vitamin K2 made up of

up of monographs working closely with

manufacturing process does not include

Bacillus subtilis natto (no B. licheniformis

different teams at USP and is already

starch-containing plant powder like soya

fermentation derived product) extract of

supplying USP with the vitamin K2

or rice flour and is stated as soy- and

menaquinone-7.

Standard Reference.

gluten-free. No solvents are used during

The US Pharmacopeial Convention

VitaMK7 and all other products from

the manufacturing process or throughout

issued three specific monographs:

Gnosis are available in South Africa from

the purification steps.

1. Menaquinone-7

Enna Industrial Ingredients. •

It is the only vitamin K2 to meet the USP and TGA standard requirements.

2. Bacillus subtilis subsp. subtilis Menaquinone extract

Disclaimer: This product is not intended to

According to Gnosis, the use of the word

3. M enaquinone-7 preparation.

diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.

‘standard’ alongside ‘quality’ is often

This is a real milestone because an

These statements have not been evaluated by

misused or abused, without the term really

established USP monograph has become

the Food and Drug Administration.

referring to the acknowledged definition.

a unified reference for the industry to

A standard of quality is a document of

accurately identify vitamin K2 as MK7.

recognised excellence established by an authority, which provides requirements

Also in August 2015, the Australian Health Authority, Therapeutic Goods

Enna – www.ennaii.co.za Gnosis – www.gnosis-bio.com

SterisartAd_177x130:Layout 1 2017/03/27 2:38 PM Page 1

We are Sartorius in South Africa Tel 011 315 5444 | sales@biotechsolutions.co.za www.biotechsolutions.co.za

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

35

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Made In SA

Adcock Ingram to acquire

I

Genop Holdings n line with its declared strategy to pursue value-adding acquisitions, particularly in less-regulated areas,

Adcock Ingram has concluded a share purchase agreement to acquire 100 percent of the shares of Genop Holdings (Genop) and

DID YOU KNOW?

Adcock Ingram’s OTC division has launched a comprehensive range of health supplements called GAP vitamins and minerals.

its subsidiaries.

Genop is a highly specialised instrument, surgical and pharmaceutical products company focused on the ophthalmic, optometry, skin care, aesthetic and plastic surgery segments in southern Africa. The company owns and markets the Epi-max skin care range, which has high awareness amongst consumers and health care professionals alike, as well as having a strong presence in the broader dermatological area. Genop has also been one of the market leaders in the optical instruments and ophthalmic field for over 90 years.

Focus on diversification ‘We consider the Genop acquisition to present an attractive investment opportunity for Adcock Ingram, as the range is complementary to our existing portfolio with very little overlap,’ says Andy Hall, CEO of Adcock Ingram. ‘This acquisition also offers diversification into a less regulated area of the health care market with many products in the portfolio falling outside the regulated single exit price environment.’

The acquisition is subject to regulatory approvals and other conditions typical for a transaction of this nature. •

36

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

Andy Hall

AEROSOLS

How to

overcome aerosol valve blocking Most antiperspirant aerosols on the market are anhydrous powder-in-oil suspensions.

This form provides an easy, versatile and decisive way to deodorise the underarm areas.

Yet aerosol valve blocking problems can occur. SummitReheis, represented in South Africa

by Millchem, provides recommendations on how to overcome this challenge.

T

•O rifice size – the actuator orifice plays an

he main difficulties in formulating powder aerosols are agglomeration or

important role in preventing or minimising valve

sedimentation and valve clogging or

clogging. Naturally, one would expect that as

blockage. These problems are often

the size of the orifice is increased, the danger of

related. The first difficulty is usually the cause

valve clogging would be reduced. However,

of the second. Clogging of the valve is the more serious of the problems.

There are several basic reasons for valve clogging, namely: • t he presence of large particles or crystals in the product concentrate/formulation • t he presence of only partially or improperly dispersed materials in the concentrate/formulation

DID YOU KNOW?

the orifice also influences delivery rate. While it is advantageous

According to SummitReheis, it offers the broadest range and highest-quality antiperspirant actives in the industry. Whatever performance level or product form you need, SummitReheis can deliver via its local distributor, Millchem.

• t he formation of agglomerates in

with powder aerosols to have a relatively high delivery rate, there is an optimum size that can be used satisfactorily. For example, the faster the material passes through the valve chamber, the less chance there is for it to

deposit within the valve. Therefore,

the concentrate/formulation during or

antiperspirant valve orifices are usually in

after processing.

the range of 0.018 to 0.020 inches.

Valve blockage results in the user being unable to fully discharge the product from the container.

A variety of approaches have been adopted

Perfumes should be added slowly so as not to strip the emollient coating from the active

•V alve seating pressure – depending on the hardness of the powder, various degrees of pressure must be exerted by the valve sealing

to overcome this problem. Some involve

gasket and valve stem. Valves with a high

modifications of the aerosol valve hardware,

seating pressure tend to reduce valve clogging.

others involve modification of the formulation

If the particles are sufficiently soft or adequately

being sprayed and further solutions involve

coated or lubricated, there will be a reduced

special storage and handling procedures for the hygroscopic aluminium chlorohydrate and aluminium sesquichlorohydrate active ingredients.

Aerosol valves The valve is an integral part of the total product. A proper valve used with an improper formulation, or a proper formulation fitted with the wrong valve are equally poor combinations.

The following factors are important for valves designed specifically for use with powder suspension products: • D istance between valve seat and orifice – the longer the distance, the greater the tendency to deposit large amounts of powder in this area.

By reducing the length of this passageway to the required minimum, the danger of valve clogging can be reduced.

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

37

AEROSOLS tendency for particles to become

the friction effect and allow the powder

delivery rate and produces a warmer

lodged in this area.

suspension to flow freely up the tube,

spray for topical application. Typical

reducing the risk of clogging.

vapour tap orifices are in the range

•S ize of dip tube – both capillary

• Vapour tap – Antiperspirant valve

(0.020 to 0.060 inches inner diameter)

0.020 to 0.030 inches.

and standard (0.125 to 0.165 inches

bodies typically contain vapour taps.

inner diameter) dip tubes are used

The presence of propellant vapour

with antiperspirants. The key is to use

along with the powder suspension

Practical suggestions to consider

an inside diameter that is as large as

formulation helps to clear the passages

All antiperspirant actives are hygroscopic.

possible for the specific formulation and

of any powder that may have been

Activated or enhanced efficacy

target spray rate. This helps to reduce

deposited. The tap also slows the

aluminium chlorohydrates are more

NEW FLIPCLASSIC FROM LINDAL A WORLDWIDE LEADER in

competitive and promising market

for one-handed operation, which has

aerosol packaging, Lindal

sectors, such as personal care. Its

become desired by consumers thanks

has launched FlipClassic

fresh, contemporary design delights

to the global acceptance of hinged

– an insert-less actuator

consumers by solving the common

closures on tube-based personal care

with an integrated cap. This

problem of lost caps especially in

products such as shampoos.

new actuator is a compelling

the case of the fast-growing travel

alternative to more costly twist-

pack product sector, where undesired

actuator fitted on the mounting cup. It is

lock actuators.

actuation is a concern.

suitable for a wide range of aluminium

FlipClassic is a highly

Unlike more costly twist-lock

cost-effective and ergonomically

and traditional cap-plus-actuators,

FlipClassic is a 35mm diameter

cans available on the market.

In addition, a cap-integrated actuator

appealing design ideal for regional

FlipClassic is crafted with its cap and

for PET containers is in development

brands and contract fillers in

actuator securely hinged. It provides

by Lindal.

SUMMIT�EHEIS

From antiperspirants to spray drying

WE KNOW DRY

With over 30 years of global experience, Millchem through their agency Summit Reheis, provide leadership in Antiperspirant technology.

WE KNOW CONSUMERS, WE KNOW DRY. JOHANNESBURG: +27 (0)11 97 4 2255 CAPE TOWN: +27 (0)21 557 6527 /8 DURBAN: +27 (0)31 569 1486 / 1458 www.millchem.co.za

(t._,illchem 38

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

AEROSOLS hygroscopic than the standard grades so

actuators stored in plastic bags in hot,

particular attention to preventing moisture

humid weather.

pick up is recommended at all stages of

The finished concentrate must be passed through a 120-mesh sieve immediately before filling. A Cuno filter with removable or

production. Though every formulation

2. Valve design

and production environment is somewhat

Non-mechanical break-up or NMBU

different, the following steps will help

actuators are preferred for valves, as they

place in a controlled environment where

reduce the possibility of antiperspirant

do not contain two to four radial swirl

relative humidity does not exceed 30 to

aerosol valve blocking:

chambers that can become impacted

35 percent.

with powder or concentrate.

1. Raw materials, packaging components

self-cleaning cartridges is ideal.

If possible, concentrate filling must take

The concentrate should be compounded and filled in one day.

3. Concentrate processing and filling

Operators must check for freezing or

Intrinsic moisture content should be minimised in all raw materials, as well

All processing, filling equipment

filling heads.

as moisture absorption on storage

and piping should be clean and dry

and during processing. Examples of

before use.

contraindicated actions are storage of

It is important to minimise condensate

condensation around the propellant Aerosol can domes must be completely dry after exiting the water bath. Sometimes, the viscosity of

half empty drums of powder for extended

formation within the mixing vessel

the concentrate is a useful guide to

periods, storage of drums in a humid or

and its subsequent addition to the

determining its moisture content. There

damp area and leaving partially open

anhydrous concentrate.

can be a dramatic increase in viscosity

drums in storage.

All packaging components must

The concentrate must be homogenised

when the total concentration of moisture in

using suitable dispersing equipment to

the concentrate from all sources exceeds

be checked for moisture before they

ensure soft lumps are eliminated and the

about two percent w/w. •

are placed on the production line.

active powder particles are sufficiently

Some examples to be avoided are

coated with emollient oils.

condensation in empty cans transferred

Perfumes should be added slowly so

from a cold warehouse or truck to a warm

as not to strip the emollient coating from

production area and moisture in valve

the active.

Lindal – www.lindalgroup.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za SummitReheis – www.summitreheis.com

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

39

SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING

Redefine, reshape and refine Hail damage or orange peel â&#x20AC;&#x201C; cellulite has many nicknames and is an area of concern for many women and men. Kim MacCallum from Vantage South Africa highlights two active ingredients, which target fat and promise smoother, redefined and firmer looking skin.

Hypertrophied adipocytes build up lipids, disrupting their metabolism and triggering the production of free radicals. These adipocytes secrete inflammatory signals, especially TNF-alpha.

Inflammation and oxidative stress have a localised action, which emphasises obesity.

For some time, nutritionists have shown keen interest in conjugated linolenic acids (CLnAs), particularly in punicic acid, a CLnA belonging to the omega 5 family, because of its ability to limit the fatty mass and inhibit lipid storage. It also activates lipid elimination and limits oxidative stress.

Proven lipolytic activity An ex vivo study was carried out on whole human skin explants, epidermis, dermis and hypodermis, to determine the lipolytic properties of active ingredients by evaluating their effect on the size of the adipocytes.

Delipidol has a distinct lipolytic activity, which results in a marked reduction in the medium-size

C

of adipocytes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an activity similar to the positive ombining the benefits of nature and technology, experts at the Solabia

The study was done by obtaining skin explants

Group have harnessed punicic

from an abdominoplasty performed on a 40-year-

acid concentrated in the rubies of

old female. The explants were preserved in specific

the pomegranate (Punica granatum). This red

culture medium at 37°C and five percent CO2. The

fruit already has a solid reputation in the tactical

products were applied topically at the dose rate of

spheres of nutrition and health.

two milligrams per cm2 on D0, D3, D6 and D8. Three

Using a biotechnological process, omega 5,

explants were treated for each condition. On D10,

an extract of pomegranate seed oil, is isolated to

the explants were removed and fixed to carry out a

form an original, unique and patented molecule,

morphological study of the adipocytes and assess

Delipidol (Tyrosol Punicate), which is proven to

the lipolytic activity. Images of histological sections

combat excess fat that results in cellulite.

were digitised for analysis of the adipose tissue.

Cellulite is linked to oxidative stress. This is

Figure 1: The results of Delipadol on volunteer 13

reference containing five percent caffeine.

defined by an imbalance in the production of

Fat node reduction

oxygen-reactive species and anti-oxidising agents,

Using 19 volunteers, an in vivo study was conducted

which counter their effects.

according to a double blind, intra-individual design, with each volunteer acting as his/her own control i.e. one percent Delipidol and a placebo product were randomly distributed to the right and left thighs of each volunteer.

The blind status was lifted once the results had been analysed. Weight stability and water retention phenomena were controlled during the study.

By virtue of its effect on lipolysis, a significant reduction in fat nodes was present in the thighs after only 28 days of treatment with these effects doubling at 56 days on average.

40

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING How lifestyle affects fat storage Consumers deal with their hectic lifestyles in different ways – some go for a walk, others meditate or exercise. Either way, stressful situations result in the body releasing cortisol. In small amounts, cortisol is a normal and healthy adaptation reflex. However, people who are exposed to a hectic lifestyle will sustain higher levels of cortisol, which negatively affects lipolysis.

Codif Laboratories (Codif) has discovered that lipolysis and even caffeine are affected by a busy lifestyle. To combat this negative effect, Codif developed an active ingredient that redefines, In in vivo studies, Codif used 25 active

reshapes and refines the body to restore its original outline. The active is particularly effective

volunteers aged between 35 and 59 with a body

on those who lead hectic lives.

mass index between 20 and 25. They applied a

Figure 2: The effect of B-Shape on HSL

cream containing 1.5 percent Polysiphonia

Slim down with red algae Seaweed has been used for decades for its slimming properties. Through the discovery of a specific seaweed (Polysiphonia brodiei), Codif has been able to increase lipolytic activity due to the stimulation of hormone-sensitive lipase (HSL), reducing lipid droplet associated protein (LDAP).

DID YOU KNOW?

brodiei (B-Shape) on the hips, arms and stomach twice daily for 28 days.

Numerical measurements were

Women generally have more taken doing an extraction of cellulite than men. According to the digital profile on the hips ScientificAmerica.com, collagen in and stomach. Centimetre women has the appearance of a picket measurements were also taken fence, whereas in men it looks more on the arms using a measuring like a cross-linked fence. The crosslinked structure is believed to be tape. The results were -8.2 percent much stronger and so it on average and up to -56 percent holds fat in better.

This protein coats and protects lipid

reduction in the width of the hips.

The stomach showed a -5.6 percent on

droplets in adipocytes. HSL is an essential and

average and up to 36 percent reduction. The

indispensable enzyme in the activation process of

arms, -0.3cm on average and up to -1.47cm in

lipolysis. It is expressed in adipose tissue where it

arm circumference.

burns stored triglycerides to free fatty acids.

In in vitro studies, 1μM of cortisol (a stress

The species of algae was named Brodiei in honour of James Brodie, a Scottish naturalist.

mediator) was used to model a busy life. Human

This is a common algae in Brittany, native to

adipocytes were then treated with 0.2 percent of

the European coasts from Norway to Portugal.

Polysiphonia brodiei for four hours.

It is a red algae, which grows in tufts of five to

LDAP and HSL were labelled by

25cm. It cultivates itself on rocks, stones, shells

immunofluorescence and quantified. LDAP

A significant reduction in fat nodes was present in the thighs after only 28 days of treatment

or corallines. •

production was reduced by 70 percent and HSL production stimulated by 237 percent, increasing lipolysis even under less hectic conditions:

Vantage South Africa – www.vantagespecialties.com

+64 percent.

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

41

SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING

The

fight against cellulite gets spicy

ShapePerfection from Mibelle Biochemistry (Mibelle) is a liposoluble anti-cellulite slimming active ingredient based on a purified extract of organic mustard sprouts combined with natural capsaicin.

A

lmost nine out of 10 women

Africa by Carst & Walker, developed

experience cellulite. Following

ShapePerfection based on these

puberty, almost 90 percent

new findings.

cellulite regardless of their weight. Men are

Visible slimming results

less affected, which is explained by the

This active ingredient is

specific nature of the adipose tissue in the

centred on two potent

thighs and buttocks of women. This tissue

vasodilators that can

contains more fat and is structured in a

induce the browning

different manner to that of men. The fat

of adipocytes:

chambers in women’s tissues also extend

1. a n organic sprout

easier and preferentially vertically to store

extract from the

fat cells.

Brassica alba species 2. spicy mustard

natural capsaicin, which is the active

type of adipocytes: the white ones that

component of chili peppers.

store lipids. However, new findings have

The capacity of the Brassica alba sprout

revealed white adipocytes are able to

extract to induce the formation of Beige/

transform upon activation into brown-like

Brite Adipose Tissue (BBRAT) was assessed

ones. Brown-like adipocytes, thought to

using pre-adipocytes from human adipose

be present only in babies, can burn lipids

tissue collected following abdominal

into heat. Mibelle, represented in South

plastic surgery.

Figure 1: Induction of Beige/Brite Adipocytes

burn the lipids into heat.

Slim down and firm up ShapePerfection activates microcirculation and fights water retention.

It also ‘empties’ the cells of the adipose tissue by converting fat-accumulating It is suitable for use in anti-ageing

Brown-like adipocytes can burn lipids into heat

adult fat tissue was constituted by a single

e / Brite Adipocytes

a result instruct the cells in fat deposits to

adipocytes into cells that actively burn fat.

of women endure stubborn

Up until five years ago, it was believed

can induce the browning of WAT and as

These pre-adipocytes were cultured in a differentiation medium either with or without the sprout extract. Their conversion into mature adipocytes (a priori WAT) was followed by RT- qPCR analysis.

Results showed that pre-adipocytes treated with the Brassica Alba sprout extract differentiated into cells (see Figure 1), which expressed much more UCP1 (+125 percent) and ZIC1 (+86 percent), both of which are

body care products, anti-cellulite massage formulations and body slimming oils. The recommended use level for ShapePerfection is one to two percent. It can be formulated in emulsions (O/W, W/O),

all types of oil based products and waterfree formulations.

Clinical studies performed for eight weeks showed the rapid, strong and visible slimming and anti-cellulite effects of ShapePerfection: • -3.4cm in the waist • - 4.1cm on the abdomen • almost -1cm in the upper arm • -18.2 percent reduction in cellulite (dermis-hypodermis junction distance).

The capacity of ShapePerfection to stimulate the blood microcirculation was also confirmed in a study performed on 21 women between 23 and 54 years old (mean age: 37.7 years).

The slimming effect of the active was also evaluated in a study performed on 18 women aged between 21 and 54 (mean age: 42.3 years), who presented cellulite on the waist and abdomen.

Results showed that ShapePerfection can significantly reduce both the abdomen and waist girths after just four weeks of treatment. •

specific markers of brown adipocytes.

This proves Brassica Alba sprout extract

42

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

S-567/©Mibelle Biochemistry

Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Mibelle Biochemistry – www.mibellebiochemistry.com

PackagingREVIEW SOUTH AFRICAN

October 2017 | Volume 43 | Number 10

www.pharmacos.co.za

The POWER of glass

Polystyrene

council rebrands

The upcoming 2017

Gold Pack Awards

NEWS

A clearer perspective UV LIGHT HAS a higher frequency or energy than

administering injectable medications in the comfort

visible light. This type of light most commonly affects

of a patient’s home.

the integrity of a bottle’s contents. In the packaging industry, UV light often accelerates

The design, manufacture, quality and choice of glass packaging are critical considerations. Suppliers

photodegradation. This photochemical

play a huge role in advancing these technologies,

reaction breaks down molecules in

which is why new features and capabilities are

products, which is why amber bottles,

constantly being developed. In this edition, the glass

which block out UV rays, are an ideal

packaging feature on page 46 touches on the new

option for packaging syrups, liquids,

developments in syringes as well as the popularity

vitamins and medication. Prefilled

and availability of amber bottles.

syringes have over the past few years emerged as a fast growing

Until next month.

choice for unit dose medication.

This is owing to companies

Assistant Editor

minimising waste, increasing

Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za

a product’s lifespan while

The Gold Pack 2017 judges

Rewarding excellence in packaging

allowing the convenience of

OPTING FOR LABEL PRESS QUALITY A SCREEN TRUEPRESS Jet L350UV digital label press has recently been commissioned at Etiquetas Adhegraf (Adhegraf), a company part of Grupo Hispagraf in Madrid, Spain. The division, a specialist label printer, services a variety of industries with 80 percent of its production dedicated to pharmaceutical products.

Following rigorous testing of different technologies and factory visits, the company opted for the Screen L350UV press because of the print quality, range of substrates, productivity and service levels delivered.

‘Productivity and quality are obviously important to us as a company. The key advantage being the value we can pass on to our clients,’ says David Pérez, the GM at Adhegraf.

Through in-depth analysis, the company confirmed the press is easy to operate, offers high speeds, simplifies job changes and maintenance tasks are significantly reduced.

The Screen Truepress Jet L350UV’s 50m per minute print speed makes it one of the fastest label printing machines in the industry. It features proprietary Screen printheads with four-step droplet technology. The expression of colour gradations enabled by the system’s high-resolution screening, coupled with the wider colour gamut of the proprietary UV inks produce impressive print quality. A stable transport mechanism tightly controls paper feeding to prevent meandering and maintain optimal transfer conditions. This ensures ensuring consistent registration accuracy.

‘Not only can we achieve a very high percentage of Pantone colours on the L350UV press, but also the colour and print are extremely stable. Between repetitions of the same job, we see the same quality from the first to the last page, Pérez concludes.

THIS YEAR’S INSTITUTE of Packaging SA (IPSA) Gold Pack Awards, which will be held on 22 November, is designed to showcase the best of the South African packaging industry. Gold, silver and bronze medals will be awarded to the top three winners in each of the various categories.

All entries that achieve finalist status and medal winners qualify for entry into the international WPO WorldStar Awards.

The judges comprise a panel of experienced individuals with a range of packaging knowledge.

They seek out excellent applications and executions of anything that may involve new, innovative or creative design, marketing or technology applied to packaging in South Africa.

They take into account the imported technology, components and constituents. Additionally, they look for specific South African input in the creation of excellent packaging. The critical qualification for entry is that the packaging needs to have been converted in South Africa. Anyone may enter a pack, however, in all cases, the converter and the brand owner must co-approve the entry form.

A total of 59 finalists were selected for this year’s awards. From these finalists, 16 gold, seven silver and 10 bronze medals will be awarded.

Other finalists will receive medals to acknowledge excellent entries of world-class standards. There will be two new awards handed out: the ‘Star of Africa’ medal will be awarded to the best entry received of a pack converted in Africa, but outside of South Africa and the ‘South African Packaging Legend’ will be announced. This award will be given to an entry selected by IPSA members as an iconic pack or for having a significant impact on

David Pérez alongside Jerónimo Pozo, re​gional manager at HTGraf, a representative of Screen in Spain which sold the press to Adhegraf

44

| OCTOBER 2017 | Packaging Review

the South African market.

The event will be hosted at the Inanda Club Polo Room in Sandton, Johannesburg.

NEWS

COMMITTED TO MINDFUL RECYCLING DURING SEPTEMBER, METPAC-

traded and new scrap. The high

SA, the newly formed industry

intrinsic value of metal scrap has

recovery organisation bringing

body representing the interests

always been the main impetus

together the entire metals

of the local metal packaging

for recycling, independent of any

packaging value chain in South

industry, joined forces with various

legislative or political initiatives. In

Africa. It provides the aluminium,

packaging streams. This was to

addition to this obvious economic

steel and tin can industries with

encourage households to practice

dimension, growing environmental

a unified voice when presenting

mindful recycling as part of Clean-

concerns and heightened social

views, making recommendations

up and Recycle SA week, which

responsibility have served to boost

or voicing opinions. These industry

took place from 11 to 17 September.

recycling activity to conserve

leaders work together to ensure

resources and avoid littering,’ says

they support the greater packaging

aluminium currently produced

Delanie Bezuidenhout, CEO of

industry’s vision of ‘zero waste to

globally originates from old,

MetPac- SA.

the environment’.

‘More than one third of

Individual shaped strips from Romaco Siebler

The industry body is a product

Cheers to

new beginnings THE POLYSTYRENE PACKAGING Council, a product recovery organisation (PRO) for expanded polystyrene and high impact

polystyrene in South Africa, is changing its corporate name to the

TECHNOLOGY AND PACKAGING UNITE ROMACO WILL TAKE advantage of the CPhI exhibition to make its first joint appearance with Constantia Flexibles on 24 to 26 October in Frankfurt, Germany. The two manufacturers have been cooperating closely for many years on R&D. A Romaco strip packaging machine in the HM 1 series will be on show at the Constantia Flexibles booth.

The Siebler HM 1 machines can be configured to manufacture die-cut strips at the customer’s request. Individual-shaped strips can be designed entirely according to each customer’s requirements. There are no limits to the possible geometries.

Round or rectangular packs can be realised and even heart or star shaped. With integral grooves as opening aids, the heat sealing technology unites design with functionality. Bespoke strip perforation patterns are also no problem. The unique primary packaging helps strengthen the product’s brand personality.

To enable individual shaped strips to be manufactured, a heat sealing machine belonging to the Romaco Siebler HM 1-350 series is equipped with a continuous cutting station.

Two servo driven punches cut strips out of the foil layer with a drawing cut. Nothing more is needed to create air, light and moisture-tight unit dose packaging with an individual design.

Polystyrene Association of South Africa.

‘With the recent steps taken to formalise industry bodies representing the various PROs, and in our dealings with government and end-markets, it became clear that we needed to relook our purpose, role and positioning within the Industry Waste Management Plan (IWMP). Whilst technically, the council is regarded a statutory body, we will not be fulfilling this role considering the more formalised industry representation, which is currently underway,’ says Adri Spangenberg.

By far, the vast majority of PROs in South Africa are established as voluntary associations. In line with general characteristics, the Polystyrene Association is regulated by common law, has an open membership and is managed from within by general members or a management/steering committee according to a constitution drawn up by members.

She says by doing away with the word ‘packaging’ in the association’s name, it is able to include more players in the industry who want to join as members.

‘The polystyrene market has grown considerably since we started more than 10 years ago, and participation is no longer just limited to the manufacturers of food packaging material.’

In addition, the IWMP requires all producers and convertors of polystyrene to support its objective of increasing the recycling of polystyrene through various projects that have a strong charity and social upliftment motivation.

Several specimen sealing pattern options are available. Any machine configured for die-cutting individual shaped strips can also be used to make standard strip formats. All in all, the Romaco Siebler HM 1-350 is capable of delivering up to 900 individual shaped strips per minute.

The Polystyrene Association of South Africa’s new logo

Packaging Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

45

GLASS PACKAGING

Clarifying the perspectives Glass packaging for pharmaceuticals and cosmetics undergo stringent processes, which prove beneficial once the final product is produced. PACKAGING REVIEW showcases the popularity of the medium, which offers complete product protection.

The company’s objectives are to stay current with market developments and trends.

Marsing has a new warehouse and distribution facility in Johannesburg that not only provides stock but also just in time delivery for customers, which is key to their success.

It maintains long-term relationships with its customers and suppliers and is especially focused on customers’ priorities.

AN OPTIMISTIC FUTURE FOR SYRINGES Last year, approximately three billion prefilled syringes were sold across the world while the prospects for growth remain positive.

Drugs based on technologically manufactured active ingredients such as biotechnology medications filled into syringes currently have a share of about 15 percent of the total market value for

M

prefilled syringes. These high-growth biotech arsing & Co SA (Marsing) is a

settle waves) and a higher added value

drugs, such as monoclonal antibodies

manufacturer’s representative,

for pharmaceutical customers.

are, due to their complexity, sensitive

importer and distributor

of pharmaceutical ingredients and packaging solutions.

Scott Watson, sales director at Marsing says the company’s popular supplies are medical round bottles, dropper bottles and jars. ‘These items are

Online inspection cameras and

DID YOU KNOW?

bottle sealing in the clean room ensures a highly controlled and defect free bottle. The

Marsing has been successfully supplying the African pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, cosmetics and health care industries for more than 20 years.

provided in various sizes and used mainly for pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.’

The current range includes medical

to possible interactions with individual syringe components.

Undesirable protein aggregations can arise in the filled syringes during

factory produces up to

storage. These impair the effectiveness

1.5 million bottles a day.

of the medication. Gerresheimer strives

‘We are proud to have an international principal that

for a reduction or avoidance of syringe components like silicone oil or tungsten.

operates an emission-free

The company offers a broad spectrum

glass production facility even

of tungsten-reduced and tungsten-free

when the basic process is initiated with a furnace,’ says Watson.

The company, ISO certified for

prefillable syringes. Tungsten is a contact material ideally suited to and often used for the production of glass syringes.

environment protection (ISO 14001:2004)

When the glass tubes are heated to

bottles with international standard neck

is committed to sustainability and applies

around 800 to 1 200°C, form rollers shape

threads (GL18) and bottle volumes in

a holistic approach that maximises

these into a cone shape at the front end of

ranges of 10 mℓ, 15 mℓ, 30 mℓ, 50 mℓ and

recycled content.

rounds in sizes 50 to 200 mℓ, dropper

100 mℓ. These are extensively used in the

‘Our approach further optimises

essential oil business and for small dose

furnace energy and gradually integrates

products like nasal sprays.

green energy sources to reduce the

Marsing represents Rak Ghani Glass, which is a modern pharma

company’s environmental impact.’

At the Rak Ghani facility, quality

glass manufacturer. All products are

assurance involves rigorous inspections

manufactured in a class 100 000 clean

from raw materials to process controls.

facility. Rak Ghani employs the newest

These inspections are focused on

technology, which is the narrow press

minimising all faults. Products are

and blow. The glass forming division

released after independent quality

contains three 10 Section Triple Gob NNPB

assurance sampling and inspection

(narrow neck press and blow) machines.

have been carried out as per military

‘The advanced NNPB process presents

standards 105E.

the greatest potential for producing

Additional quality management

light weight containers with optimised

system certifications implemented and

glass container designs and more even

maintained are:

glass distribution.’ Equal wall thickness

• I SO 9001:2008

leads to greater strength, better quality

• I SO 15378:2006

appearance of the glass container (no

• I SO 14664-1/Class 100 000.

46

| OCTOBER 2017 | Packaging Review

The 100mℓ MCA2 round neck bottle

The150mℓ MCA2 round neck bottle

A 10mℓ amber glass dropper bottle

GLASS PACKAGING

CONSPICUOUS COSMETICS PACKAGING GERRESHEIMER EXHIBITED ITS exclusive glass packaging for fragrances and cosmetics at the Packaging of Perfume Cosmetics and Design fair held in New York on 6 and 7 September. It presented a selection of new packaging designs.

These bottles and jars were designed to showcase their inner contents, giving the item a unique identity. There are a range of moulding, colour and finishing options for cosmetics glass products at the company’s disposal. This repertoire enables it to cater to all relevant market segments in the world of fragrances and cosmetics.

measurement of visible deposits in prefilled syringes,

tungsten in the

meaning that tungsten compounds

syringe cone.

only generate protein aggregations

outliers caused by

Epoetin Alfa and several monoclonal

fluctuations in the

antibodies at low pH values.

process temperature or abrasions of the

INFLUENCE OF FILLING TECHNOLOGY

tungsten pins are also possible.

The filling process of the

With needle syringes

prefillable syringe can also have

– because the needles

an influence on the formation

are glued in – the

of protein aggregations due

glue seals the

to tungsten. In the case of the

inner bore, which

vacuum stoppering process, the

contains tungsten.

liquid comes into direct contact

This results in

with the inner cone and, in contrast

less tungsten

to the stoppering tube process, no

oxides being deposited on

small air bubbles remain between

the surface. •

the liquid and inner cone. This direct

and define its interior diameter, a tungsten

contact can bring tungsten traces into

pin is inserted into every syringe.

contact with the sensitive proteins during

Only a few protein formulations are

Individual

in a few cases. Examples include

the syringe. In order to keep the bore open

to date demonstrably known to form

Prefillable glass syringes

A glass object for cosmetics that was showcased at the Packaging of Perfume Cosmetics and Design fair

Gerresheimer – www.gerresheimer.com Marsing & Co SA – www.marsing-sa.com

the storage period. Gerresheimer has carried out a variety of studies on the

Your One Stop Pharma Ingredients Preferred Suppliers of & Packaging Solutions specialised packaging components for Preferred suppliers of specialised the Pharmaceutical, packaging components for the Complimentary Healthcare Pharmaceutical, Complimentary and Animal Feed Industries Healthcare and Animal

Feeds Industries.

• Light weight pharmaceutical glass containers • Certified Class 100,000 Clean Room • No additional preparation or sterilization Tel: +27 (0)11 462 6913 | Fax: +27 (0)11 462 2045 | scott@marsing-sa.com Marsing & Co Africa (Pty) Ltd | 9 Thunderbolt Lane, Lanseria Corporate Estate, Malibongwe Drive, Lanseria, Johannesburg, South Africa

Empty Gelatin Capsules | Metered Dose Sprays and Pumps Printed Aluminium, Plastic or Laminate Tubes | Medical

Packaging Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

Glass and Plastic Bottles and Vials | Closures

47

ASSOCIATION NEWS//

Creating an appetite for innovation The 2017 Coschem Scientific Conference inspired formulators and brand owners to think about what’s coming next in the cosmetics industry. Hosted over two days, presentations included groundbreaking research, technical product information and a motivational talk that got everyone to reflect on their happiness. By Abby Vorster

A

bout 150 industry professionals,

information not usually garnered from

on the conference programme. Topics

suppliers, academics and

instruments. These benefits were highlighted

included medicinal plants that should be

cosmetic scientists gathered at

in the keynote presentation by Randall

considered for skin care products, which

Bytes Conference Centre on 13 and 14

Wickett from the University of Cincinnati.

address hyper-pigmentation; the photo-

September for the Society of Cosmetic

Wickett shared insights from a long-term

protective activity of indigenous and exotic

Chemists’ (Coschem) annual scientific

study performed at P&G on TEWL and how it

plant extracts; stable carrier formulations

conference. All the presentations and

increases with surfactant damage.

for ethanolic plant extracts; research on

poster sessions were based on the

He also highlighted that biomarkers

the potential of essential oils and SA plants

theme ‘Cosmetix – what is next’, and

are objective, non-invasive and provide

to address acne; the anti-ageing abilities

set out to reshape industry’s thinking

consistent measurements of stratum

of certain documented indigenous plants

in terms of future trends impacting the

corneum barrier function. ‘They provide

like the Cape Myrtle; and local plants

cosmetics industry.

new data and insights into a product’s

showing promising results for preventative

function and efficacy, guiding the

oral care products.

BIOMARKERS IN SKIN RESEARCH

development of superior personal

Biomarkers are being used increasingly

care products.’

in skin research. They can be sampled

ANTI-POLLUTION FOCUS With the increased focus on anti-pollution

non-invasively from the skin’s surface

NATURAL ACTIVES AND EXTRACTS

in the cosmetics industry, Chantal O’Brien

(desquames). By measuring changes in

Several presentations by students from the

De Villiers from Materia Medica discussed

cytokines, biomarkers provide additional

University of Pretoria (UP) were featured

the need to standardise anti-pollution

2017 CONFERENCE IN PICTURES

48

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

ASSOCIATION NEWS//

SPOTTED AT THE GALA DINNER

2017 CONFERENCE PRESENTATIONS Day one Combining Biomarkers and Instrumental Measurements in Skin Research by Randall Wickett, University of Cincinnati, USA Medical Plants Showing their Worth as Potential Global Competitors for Treating Skin Hyper Pigmentation by Marco Nuno De Canha, UP, South Africa Proteasomal Enhancement: An Innovative Well-Aging Strategy by Karin Barends, Symrise, South Africa Textured Hair Care – Overcoming the Challenges of Textured Hair by Mary Baloyi, Dow Chemicals, South Africa An Alternative to Split Ends Trimming by Anne Thomasson, Solvay, France Paeonia Lactiflora: Even Skin Tone and Attractiveness by Rand Nouktah, Crodarom, France South African Botanicals Against Skin Cancer as Photoprotectants by Danielle Twilley, UP, South Africa Special Care for Unique Skin and Hair by Martina Heldermann, Kahl Wax, Germany Anti-Pollution – The Exploration of the Environments Effect on Our Epigenomes by Chantal O’Brien De Villiers, Materia Medica, South Africa Emulsion Carrier Formulations for Natural Plant Extracts: Developmental and Stability Testing by Deveshnee Moodley, UP, South Africa The Beauty Millennials by Kelly Arnold, Nielsen, South Africa Day two

test parameters linking to the efficacious

Through ex vivo studies, the

activity of anti-pollution actives.

company determined several

‘While suppliers carry out independent

claims for the active, including

research on their anti-pollution actives,

shine improvement, moisturisation,

it is up to industry to set the benchmarks

frizz control and protection against

and develop a level of standardisation,’

environmental aggressors.

she commented.

For example, an anti-pollution active

REGULATIONS UPDATE

needs a specific delivery system and an

A highly anticipated update on the

anti-inflammatory effect to be effective.

regulatory landscape was provided

She said industry is likely to see the

by Dershana Valla from the Cosmetic,

development and implementation of blue

Toiletry & Fragrance Association (CTFA).

light protection factor on products much

She discussed a review of the

like the SPF factor, which has become a

draft regulations, how the labelling

universal indicator of sun protection.

requirements weren’t aligned and that the CTFA has made proposals for them

HAIR CARE INGREDIENTS

to be aligned. She also said the CTFA

Dow highlighted its newly launched

has negotiated and confirmed a redraft

textured hair care kit, which includes

of the regulations with an industry

a cost-effective frizz control serum. The

workshop on the cards.

company has done various tests on a

The conference culminated with the

range of benefits, which can be translated

annual gala dinner, which returned

into claims.

to the Montecasino Ballroom with the

Solvay focused on split ends and its new split end mending technology, initially launched at in-cosmetics.

Givaudan discussed a hyaluronic acid active for hair care applications.

theme ‘A Night of a Thousand Lights’.

For more information about Coschem and its annual scientific conference, send an e-mail to bridget@coschem. co.za or visit www.coschem.co.za. •

Hydroxypropyl Gluconamide (and) Hydroxypropylammonium Gluconate, a New Unique Glucose Based Ingredient for Internal Hair Strengthening and Bond Building for Repair to Chemically Treated Hair by Dave Popplewell, Ashland Specialty Industries, The Netherlands Mother Nature’s Remedy for Your Wrinkles: New Approaches to Fighting the Signs of Skin Ageing by Bianca Fibrich, UP, South Africa Natural PEG-Free Polyglyceryl Esters as High Performance Emulsifiers for Modern Skin Care Products by Gabriele Polak, Evonik Nutrition & Care, Germany Potential of South African Plants and Essential Oils for Acne Vulgaris by Isa Lambrechts, UP, South Africa Hydroxystearic Acid Corrects Both Conspicuous Facial Pores and Age Spots by Mathieu Moulin, DSM, France Hyaluronic Acids, an All in One Solution from Biotechnology for a Sustainable and Advanced Hair Care Active Ingredient by Emilie Venera, Givaudan, France Homegrown Human Skin: A Reality to Repair Skin Wounds by Lester Davids, C2L Consulting, South Africa Postnatal Development of Skin Function by Randall Wickett, University of Cincinnati, USA Heteropyxis Natalensis as an Effective Addition to Our Oral Care Regime to Prevent Dental Caries and Tooth Decay by Karina Szuman, UP, South Africa Draft Regulations Relating to Labelling, Advertising and Composition of Cosmetics

by Dershana Valla, CTFA, South Africa Happyology by motivational speaker by Gavin Sharples

P C Review | OCTOBER 2017 |

49

Tea time

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Crossword clues ACROSS 1. Move deeply 5. Upstart 6. Bombastic 7. Ring-shaped

PCR September general knowledge trivia answers:

Sudoku

Zurich, Harvey Wallbanger, Addams Family, Poseidon, Tina Turner, Biro Brothers, Marie Curie, the moon

9 6

7

DOWN 1. Course certificate 2. Cut of meat 3. Poorly balanced 4. Embarrassing mistake

2

9

1

3

6

4 5

TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive

7

+27 (0)82 976 6541

4

2

9

Carla Melless

6

Sales executive

+27 (0)83 260 6060

8 1

4

ADVERTISERS' INDEX

2

Candida Giambo-Kruger

7

Sales executive

1

Biotech Solutions.....................................35.........www.biotechsolutions.co.za Botanica Natural Products.................... OFC.........www.timola.co.za Bruker SA.................................................25.........www.bruker.com/optics Chempure.........................................18, 33.........www.chempure.co.za CJP Chemicals........................................ 41.........www.cjpchemicals.co.za Crest Chemicals...................................... 19.........www.crestchem.co.za Evonik......................................................22.........www.evonik.com Flavourome.............................................30.........www.flavourome.co.za Gnosis USA..............................................34.........www.gnosis-bio.com IMCD....................................................... 11.........www.imcdgroup.com Laboratory and Biological Services.......... 13.........www.labserve.co.za Lake International Technologies...............32.........www.lakefoods.co.za Marsing...................................................47.........www.marsing-sa.com Measuring Instruments Technology..........23.........www.marmit.co.za

50

| OCTOBER 2017 | P C Review

9

+27 (0)71 438 1918

Millchem.................................................38.........www.millchem.co.za MJ Labs...................................................27.........www.mjlabs.co.za Moco Cosmetic Packaging.........................5.........www.mocopack.co.za Nutrispec.................................................29.........www.nutrispec.co.za Omron.....................................................26.........www.industrial.omron.co.za Protea Chemicals....................................28.........www.proteachemicals.co.za Puregas...................................................39.........www.puregas.co.za QualiSource.............................................33.........www.qualisource.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals.................. 21, 31.........sfc-info@savannah.co.za Sensient Colours.....................................36.........www.sensientpharma.com Symrise................................................ OBC.........www.symrise.com Vantage Speciality Chemicals.................. 15.........www.vantagegrp.com Warrenchem Specialities.........................28.........www.brenntag.com

Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,

find information on membership,

Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and

educational programmes

other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin

(specific details pertaining to the

& Derivatives

Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.

www.coschem.co.za

COSMETIC INGREDIENTS Ingredients include: African oils I Hyaluronic acid I Treated pigments I Treated inorganic sunscreens I Encapsulated organic sunscreens I Plant

Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and

and animal proteins and specialised protein derivatives I Brown

closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is

seaweed I Natural actives and rheology modifiers I Anti-dandruff

your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical &

agents I Concentrates

cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.

www.cosmetic-ingredients.co.za

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

FORMPAK

NOVOPAK

For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,

Novopak is a plastic packaging

packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical,

company that specializes in

cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

manufacturing a complete range

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

of cosmetic and pharmaceutical tubes, including printing, hot foiling and various caps. We also manufacture Bottles and Jars.

Tel +27 (0)11 865 5632 Email novopak@absamail.co.za www.novopak.co.za

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER

QUANTUM COLOURS SA

Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme

Your No. 1 industry leader

offers support to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social

for the most comprehensive

needs and well being.

ranges of both synthetic and

At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across

natural colours – used in food,

SA, cosmetics are used as tools

pharmaceutical, cosmetic and

to address visible side effects of

industrial applications.

treatment to assist patients to restore

Tablet coatings – manufactured,

self-esteem and face the world

supplied and marketed globally

with confidence.

under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.lgfb.co.za

www.quantumcolours.co.za

“ SKIN CHARMER Urbanite & countryside princess. Care & protection. From the pot and the tube. Everyone wants the same thing – to feel comfortable in their own skin and to look radiant. How to find the right ingredient for every type of skin and care? Look for solutions in nature, leverage knowledge responsibly and take natural treasures and transform them into products for everyone. We blend consumer demands with innovative research, creating true beauty for everyone and long-term protection inside and out. www.symrise.com

”