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SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

November/December 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 11

www.pharmacos.co.za

Creating

new and exciting

scent

experiences

Explore new frontiers in fragrance innovation Enhance the science of beauty with novel ingredients PHARMA FOCUS: All your aseptic processing needs covered


Join us for the

Beauty Business & Partners 2 019

Learn from eight beauty, business and industry experts in one inspiring day to discover what it takes to run a successful company in tough economic times.

CO N F E R E N C E

• One unmissable session on beauty and money, highlighting the acquisitionready checklist and potential investor opportunities for brand owners and suppliers. • The following topics will also feature on the conference programme: 1. Cleaner beauty – the rise of natural ingredients, sustainable sourcing and cold processing 2. The future of beauty marketing and advertising – insight into the ASA liquidation and how to develop a marketing strategy where compliance transcends all platforms 3. Compliant beauty – the PIF and safety assessment journey of one independently owned, local brand and how the company transitioned from self-regulated to EU compliant 4. Beauty influencers – the good, the instafamous and the greedy 5. Private label – how one brand made it big on the basis of added value 6. Safety, efficacy and stability – what is required, how much does it cost and why is it necessary? 7. How to connect with African brands and consumers – first-hand advice on doing business in the beauty industry, beyond the South African border

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW Date:

Thursday, 21 February 2019

Time:

08h30 to 16h00

Venue: Media Park Auditorium, Auckland Park, Johannesburg, South Africa • Save with our Early Bird special! Book your seat now and pay R995 per person including VAT. Early Bird bookings close on 30 November 2018. • Conference seats booked after 1 December 2018 will cost R1 295. • You will receive more information on the conference programme and speakers once you have booked and paid for your seat. Send an e-mail to abby.vorster@ newmediapub.co.za for more information.


Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

14

November/December 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 11

New De Laire bases from Symrise

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

Celebrating the industry’s visionaries

8 NEWS

Cipla opens new inhaler plant in Morocco

Vytrus honoured for novel serum formulation

RégimA named 2018’s best skin care supplier

10 COMPLIANCE COLUMN

A handy checklist for labelling

11 PRODUCT NEWS

What’s new in South Africa

24 PHARMA FOCUS:

13 EVENTS

Highlights from the Africa HPC markets seminar

14 FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

ASEPTIC PROCESSING

Keep critical environments clean with Nilfisk

Marchesini boosts its vial processing solutions

28 INGREDIENT &

Symrise partners with Payan Bertrand

Introducing English Leather Woman

FORMULATION INNOVATION

Essential oils, the indispensable fragrance ingredients

Replace microplastics with natural cellulose

The future of niche perfumery in South Africa

Nature-based innovations from Evonik

New scent boosting technology from Bell

Gentle mechanical exfoliators for face care

Vantage expands its portfolio of nutrient-rich milks

Choose Derma-Clear to soothe a sensitive scalp

Gattefossé launches its first hair care ingredient

Skin actives inspired by the Mediterranean

| Volume 44 mber 2018 ember/Dece

| Number 11

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44 Events

Printology Roadshow tours major print centres

46 Blister Packaging & Encapsulation

Solutions to protect and secure your products

48 Industry Talk

Dow set to identify new ways to recycle plastics

49 ASSOCIATION NEWS

le 2018 whist Printology lights stop tour high

turn ints duo tore Dow appoin su ea tr to h as tr

Latest news from Coschem

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

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SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

A sensory affair

W

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti

hat are your favourite

This month, our pharma focus looks

smells? I love the richly

at aseptic processing and the specialist

Contributors: Alessa Huneke, Andreas Kiesow, Judith Ryll, Liesl Keulder, Sandra Sarembe, Vanessa Sternitzke

familiar scents of my

equipment to maintain a hygienic, safe

ADVERTISING

two children, the earthy

and efficient environment. Turn to page 24

Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za

smell of rain and the heady aroma of good

now to read more about how Nilfisk assures

coffee. Each of these smells triggers a strong

maximum hygiene in the shortest time

emotional response that uplifts my spirit, de-

possible in pharma labs, clean rooms and

stresses and takes me to a happy place.

production sites. If you’re looking for new

Our scent preferences are highly personal

manufacturing technology for injectables

Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za

and often linked to specific memories or

and small volume parenteral products –

associations. In the personal and home care

Marchesini’s expanded aseptic processing

Sales Executive: Gayle Kihn +27 (0)82 457 0896 gayle.kihn@newmediapub.co.za

industries, these emotional connections

portfolio may have the right solution for your

INTERNATIONAL SALES

are maximised by incorporating fragrance

manufacturing needs.

ingredients into formulations. Beyond the

In our regular PACKAGING REVIEW

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com

sensory experience, high performance

section, Aarifah Nosarka discusses some of

fragrance technologies add value to

the newest blister packaging innovations

products, making their scent last longer on

on the market for oral solid dosage forms.

skin or in clean laundry.

Featured on page 46, the push through

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

strip packaging for tablets and capsules

CIRCULATION

Long lasting fragrance creations have been in demand for years and span both

is particularly interesting, offering multiple

the perfumery and home care categories.

benefits to a brand, manufacturer and the

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za

Fragrance houses continue to innovate in

user. The four-sided sealed foil pack uses less

PUBLISHING TEAM

this space with high performance delivery

packaging material in production and its

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

systems, perfume compounds, the discovery

targeted perforation is user friendly, enabling

of unique ingredients and new aroma

easy access to medicines. This is particularly

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za

molecules. You can read more about these

important for geriatric patients.

Production Controller: Rae Morrison

developments in our section on fragrances and essential oils on page 14. As a journal for innovation-minded industry

It’s hard to believe this is our last edition for 2018. This year has been a fast paced and challenging one, which is why we’re grateful

professionals, our mission is to help readers

for the continued support from readers,

create and deliver their next great finished

advertisers and industry partners. Thank you,

product in line with budget, regulatory

from the team and me. We hope you have a

and market demands. The ingredient and

good break during the festive season.

formulation innovation feature on page 28 highlights a variety of ingredients and

Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR Aileen Lamb

Stay safe and enjoy the read!

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

formulation technologies that are on trend,

Bridget McCarney

sustainable, easy to formulate and offer

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

brands added value.

John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

Consultant, drbaileys.com

Dr Trevor Baillie

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

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COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719


Connecting Global Compe tence

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TU

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NE3 TW

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AL2

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Lab Africa now organized by analytica BeneďŹ t from the advantages of the world's largest trade fair network for the lab and analysis industry - the analytica cluster - organized by Messe MĂźnchen. Participate in analytica Lab Africa and meet international key players, experience hands-on accompanying events and extend your business.

July 9-11, 2019 Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg International Trade Fair for Laboratory Technology, Analysis, Biotechnology and Diagnostics. www.analytica-africa.com

RK


NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

Paired, admired and rewarded Celebrating brand owners who ‘challenge the status quo’, the 2018 P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition awards took place on 11 October at Ferguson’s Fifth Floor in Illovo, Johannesburg. By Abby Vorster

I

t was a night to remember! Thanks

Symrise has been the headline

for personal care ingredients, in-

to Symrise’s senior perfumer, Philippe

sponsor of the New Product Competition

cosmetics will provide Optiphi access

Paparella-Paris, who shared his love

for the past five years and has remained

to high level scientific education and

for fragrance creation in a much

talked about presentation,

for the fragrance development brief and the science of scent, highlighting Symrise’s 2017 green

‘Thank you to all the

DID YOU KNOW?

entitled In Full Bloom. He discussed best practices

truly committed to its growth. contestants for your

This year, two beauty bloggers attended the awards. Joan Hillman of Jems of Natural and Goddess blogger, Susann Deysel posted awards content on social media, along with New Media’s Varushka Padayachi.

chemistry innovation, Lilybelle. Paparella-Paris also treated guests to an

To look back at the highlights on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter, search our dedicated hashtag: #BeautyNPC2018. Deysel also reviewed the awards on her blog, www.goddess.co.za.

intimate fragrance pairing with

participation and to the

global consumer insights, as well as the opportunity to meet over 800 suppliers of ingredients, fragrances, lab equipment and testing and regulatory solutions.

judges for your time, input and assessments,’

Competition results

he added. ‘Without you,

Congratulations to all the winners and

the awards evening

runners up in the various categories. The

would not exist!’

results of the 2018 P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition are as follows:

The highest accolade

This year’s visionary brand

two of his newest perfume creations

was none other than Optiphi. The

– Contrast and Mettisage. Contrast,

professional skin care company

Overall winners Winner: Classic Clarity Serum (Optiphi) First Runner Up:

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submitted two individual entries: its

AWARD WINNERS

reformulated Classic Clarity Serum and the Body Curve Solar Spritz SPF30. The Classic Clarity Serum received the highest accolade of all as the overall winner of the 2018 P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition.

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All the judges agreed that Optiphi is

1

PERFUMER

reaching new frontiers in skin care. The Classic Clarity Serum’s slick packaging, thorough regulatory compliance,

1: The fragrance pairing, featuring Contrast, a salted rose lemonade, Mettisage and the caramel fudge 2: Symrise’s senior perfumer, Philippe Paparella-Paris

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mindful science-based marketing and effective ingredients blended in a hightech formulation are the main elements that contributed to the product’s win. Delia Greef, Optiphi’s professional

3: Multi-Color South Africa’s technical director, Zoyon Le Sueur and Hannah Rubin of Skin Creamery 4: Zoyon Le Sueur and David Khumalo of Henkel SA 5: Catherine Williams of Urban Labs and Keegan Capito, fragrance business development specialist at Symrise 6: Delia Greef and Keegan Capito

brand executive, accepted the award on behalf of the company. She commented: ‘Thank you for this

with its aromatic rose notes, was skilfully paired with a salted rose lemonade while the gourmand elements of Mettisage were brought forward in combination with a delicious caramel fudge. ‘The New Product Competition awards are about the visionaries who create all the new products that make their way to the consumers,’ said Wesley Irwin, sales director of sub-Saharan Africa for Symrise’s scent and care division.

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prestigious award. Our team loved how every department is highlighted for its individual role that contributed to Optiphi becoming an award-winning skin care brand. Congrats on hosting

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your most successful awards event; everything was perfect!’ A representative from Optiphi will be travelling to Paris, France in 2019, to attend in-cosmetics Global, which takes place from 2 to 4 April. Known as the world’s leading event

6 | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review


NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION Category for the second year running. As

strengthening the manufacturing sector,

a result, a representative from Henkel South

creating jobs and boosting the economy.

Africa will be treated to a two night stay in

7 7: Tsakani Mkhabela, Nelisiwe Mazibuko, Synodia Bhasera and David Khumalo of Henkel SA 8: Dimanzi brand ambassador, Tandi Potgieter with Di Thompson of Dimanzi Perfumes 9: Kalahari team: Natalie van Eeden, Yolande Myburgh,Danelle Siepker Carina Franck, Mandy Nortje and Jolene Smit

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the Western Cape, to be wined, dined and

Advice that adds value

taken on a tour of Multi-Color South Africa’s

Now in its 11th year, the New Product

personal care and cosmetics labelling plant

Competition aims to give local and

in Paarl. This prize will give Henkel South

international brands supplied on the

Africa access to expert advice on labelling

South African market, an opportunity to

processes and technologies, promotional

showcase their new products and what

solutions, security features and how to build

makes them innovative.

a brand and drive sales with premium label. Multi-Color South Africa forms part of one of the world’s largest labelling companies,

(Botanichem) and Elizna Hurter (Skinchem);

Multi-Color Corporation. In Africa, it is the

technical and regulatory specialists Percy

largest and most awarded premium label

Sibanda (L’Oréal South Africa) and Jill

printer, supplying the cosmetics, food, craft

Gardiner; and veteran packaging buffs

beer and wine industries.

Clive Glover and Tony de Beer. New to the

South African Star Award

panel was Richard Weir, creative director

To applaud the brand that utilises a

at Gullan & Gullan Digital. The agency has

majority of South African suppliers to

worked with many of the world’s best brands

produce its products, P C Review has

to develop their marketing strategies, with a

introduced the South African Star Award.

particular focus on digital. Weir’s expertise

Each entrant receives a score out of 10

in shaping brands in line with business

based on information submitted on where

objectives proved invaluable in his role as

they source ingredients and all forms of

the marketing judge.

packaging, from printing and labelling to the

9 Schwarzkopf Oil Ultime (Henkel SA) Second Runner Up: Range of Serums (Kalahari Lifestyle) Individual Category Winner: Classic Clarity Serum (Optiphi)

Our 2018 judging panel included formulation experts Robyn Brown

P C Review is grateful for the input

actual components, and their manufacturer

from all the judges, who give of their

(if applicable). The ORS Olive Oil Ethnic hair

time to assess all the entries and provide

care range by Urban Labs was named the

constructive feedback. While this is

first South African Star of the competition.

essential to helping the entrants improve

By developing and manufacturing the

their products and grow their brands, it

ORS Olive Oil range in South Africa, Urban

also ensures the esteemed standard of the

Labs (owned by Dabur South Africa) is

competition is maintained. •

GUESTS

First Runner Up: Body Curve Solar Spritz

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Multi-Color South Africa – www.mcclabel.com/africa_cape Symrise – www.symrise.com

SPF30 (Optiphi) Second Runner Up: Ultra Rich Skin Complex

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(Kalahari Lifestyle) Range Category Winner: Schwarzkopf Oil Ultime (Henkel SA) First Runner Up: Range of Serums (Kalahari Lifestyle) Second Runner Up: Skin Care Range (Skin Creamery) Editor’s Choice Award Winner: Dimanzi Eau de Parfum (Di Thompson) The Packaging Category Winner: Schwarzkopf BC Bonacure Scalp

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10: Roy and Gill Gardiner with Clive and Shirley Glover 11: Elizna Hurter and Robyn Brown 12: Nicola Botes of Avon Justine, Maxine Robertson of Symrise Scent & Care, Philippe Paparella-Paris, and Melonie Thorington and Niki-Jay Bougaard of Avon Justine 13: Helen Da Fonseca of L’Oréal South Africa, Philippe Paparella-Paris, Keegan Capito, Laetitia Ngassa of L’Oréal South Africa and Pearl Boso of Symrise 14: Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review; Beverley Gardner of SkyEm and Wesley Irwin

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Genesis (Henkel SA) First Runner Up: tied between the Skin Care Range (Skin Creamery) and Schwarzkopf Oil Ultime (Henkel SA) Second Runner Up: Classic Clarity Serum (Optiphi) Bringing a new dimension to the competition, Multi-Color South Africa committed to sponsoring the Packaging

12 P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

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NEWS

NEW INHALER PRODUCTION PLANT FOR CIPLA MAROC Dignitaries and executives celebrate the launch of Cipla Maroc with a ribbon cutting ceremony

ON 15 OCTOBER, Cipla Maroc announced the official opening of its manufacturing plant for metered-dose inhalers in Ain Aouda in the Rabat region of Morocco. A total of 60 million dirhams have been invested in this project. This is the first time an industrial unit of this kind has been established in the North African country. The opening ceremony was attended by Anas Doukkali, the country’s minister of health; Dr YK Hamied,

non-executive chairman of Cipla; Niravkumar B Sutariya, second secretary of the Embassy of India in Morocco; Christos Kartalis, Cipla’s executive VP of emerging markets and Europe; Ali Sedrati, GM of the Pharmaceutical Institute (Phi); and Ayman Cheikh Lahlou, GM of Cooper Pharma. Spanning 4 000m², the Cipla Maroc plant has an annual production capacity of 1.5 million HFA metered-dose inhalers. Around 15 references will be manufactured at the site, and 11 will be distributed for the first time in Morocco. The Cipla Maroc industrial unit is built as per the guidelines of the World Health Organization and the European and American regulatory authorities. The facility received regulatory approval from the General

INDUSTRY PARTNERS INNOVATE WITH ROLL-ON FACE CARE SERUM CLARIANT HAS CREATED a skin soothing serum in a roll-on format, which has been sponsored to select tradeshows as gifts for guests. The serum made its debut in Monaco at Luxepack, which took place from 1 to 3 October. The project involved two of Clariant’s business units and four industry partners. The idea was conceptualised by two innovators. Alessandro Pozzati, an industrial designer at the ColorWorks design and technology centre in Milan. The centre forms part of Clariant’s Masterbatches business group. And Katya Spera, sales manager for personal care in Italy for Clariant’s industrial and consumer specialties business unit. ‘Creating an item we can use to promote our ColourForward trend analysis and colour forecasting tool is an annual challenge,’ says Pozzati. ‘This year, our personal care gift not only highlights ColourForward, but also the ingredients marketed by the personal care group.’ The ColorForward 2019 trend called ‘Made in Human’ focuses on humanity’s struggles in an increasingly technological world. That was the creative spark, according to Spera.

‘It seemed to be the perfect match with a restorative serum, called Rhythm N’Blue, offered by Clariant Active Ingredients to repair skin damaged by stress, fatigue, pollution and the effects of blue light exposure,’ she explains. ‘One of the colours in the Made in Human trend, is a soft, soothing turquoise called “Keep Wonder Alive”. We used this colour for the packaging and selected a roll-on format to mimic a massage action when applying the facial product.’ Merck provided the special effect pigment that adds brilliance and a sparkling glitter effect to the Keep Wonder Alive turquoise colour. Italian formulator, Biogei Cosmetics produced the Rhythm N’Blue serum. Italian plastic packaging producer, InduPlast supplied the roll-on container. Graphic designer company, D-Fusion created the label and a website to highlight the project. Rhythm N’Blue also showcases several products from Clariant Active Ingredients. Nipaguard EHP is a broad-spectrum antimicrobial agent. Artistoflex Silk is a highly compatible thickener or texturiser that delivers a luxury sensory experience. The skin resynchroniser, B-Circadin; Fuligo, which increases skin density and firmness; and the skin-soothing agent, MultiEx BSASM, are also included in the formulation.

The Rhythm N’Blue restorative serum created by Clariant and several industry partners

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| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Secretary of Govt on 18 June 2018. Founded in 2015, Cipla Maroc is a joint-venture between Cipla, headquartered in India, and its Moroccan partners, Phi and Cooper Pharma. Cipla’s Kartalis comments: ‘We are proud of this addition to our manufacturing footprint, a first for the region. This not only strengthens our manufacturing, but also our ties with Morocco and Cipla. This factory will leverage Cipla’s expertise and experience in the respiratory inhalation segment to help patients in Morocco and neighbouring regions, in keeping with our purpose of caring for life.’ Phi’s Sedrati and Cooper Pharma’s Lahlou add: ‘Cipla, Phi and Cooper have made a smart investment in Morocco and in the inhaler technology, which is a first for the country and region. This will allow us to significantly reduce our imports of this technology and it will improve our value added products offering for export markets.’

Global aesthetics industry recognition for Environ THE SOUTH AFRICAN BRAND has been named the Top Medical Skin Care company in the prestigious Aesthetic Everything Awards. Based on consumers’ votes, this awards programme forms part of a global competition. It is managed from the USA and recognises excellence across a range of categories. This year’s competition saw more than 30 000 votes cast between September and October as brands and suppliers fought for sought-after titles in the global aesthetics industry. Environ’s prestigious win was also aired on a digital billboard in New York City’s famous Times Square. ‘We are honoured to be named the Top Medical Skin Care Company in the Aesthetic Everything Awards. This recognises our mission to future-proof skins across the globe and the efficacy of our products. Environ helps create the appearance of more youthful, healthy looking and beautiful skin,’ says Dr Des Fernandes, founder and scientific director at Environ Skin Care. The Cape Town-based brand has received over 100 global recognitions and accolades for its outstanding products. These include being awarded the Swiss Vitamin Institute seal, which verifies the strength and efficacy of its vitamin A moisturisers and serums. Since 1990, Environ has used science to change the way the world

Valerie Carstens and Dr Des Fernandes show off Environ’s latest accolade, from the 2018 Aesthetic Everything Awards

sees skin care. Today the brand has over 140 products sold in more than 70 countries. He adds: ‘We have a track record spanning more than 30 years using science to change skin and transform lives. Because I have seen incredible results using vitamin A, I believe everyone can have beautiful skin with this ingredient.’ Environ Skin Care was borne from Dr Fernandes’ vision for innovation and the business savvy of company CEO and chairperson, Valerie Carstens. Today, it continues to build on scientific innovation, leaving a legacy that is celebrated and respected globally. This is achieved through the launch of new innovations based on proven ingredients and powerful formulations.


NEWS

ROOTS 2019 IS LOADING WITH NEW METHODOLOGY SOUTH AFRICA’S LARGEST urban community quantitative survey, Roots, is currently in field. Roots 2019 is set to launch in the first quarter of next year. The new instalment of the survey balances trendability while keeping up to date with current industry developments. ‘Roots 2019 shows what consumers look like, how they behave, where they shop, what media they consume and how they have changed over time,’ says Jacqui Hansen of Spark Media. ‘At a local level and compared to Roots 2016, our new methodology incorporates both LSM and SEM descriptors, painting a more accurate picture of South African communities with a more in depth look at the digital environment.’ Besides the usual datasets of demographics and general info, Roots digs deeply into categories like digital integration, activities, entertainment and many retail categories. ‘The 2019 survey includes interviews with 20 new communities from some

of the total 148 areas across South Africa. A total 26 000 decision makers in homes will be sampled using the pure random sampling method,’ she explains. ‘We have increased the percentage of digital related questions and adapted our methodology to test in real, live environments concurrently with the main study in 2016 and 2019.’ Some of the questions in next year’s survey include which shopping centres are favoured by those living in the northern suburbs of Johannesburg and does selection differ depending on purpose? ‘Roots started in 1984,’ says Gill Randall, Joint CEO of Spark Media. ‘Since then close on 200 000 interviews have been conducted. In 2001, we partnered with TNS, ensuring the past 18 years of data is consistent and trendable at a community level. This year we delve even deeper into digital and technology aspects, which consume so much time and resources of peoples’ lives, on a daily basis.’

WACKER COMMISSIONS CYSTINE PRODUCTION PLANT THE LIFE SCIENCES division of Wacker, Wacker Biosolutions, has started producing fermentation-generated cystine at its new site in León, Spain. Over the past 18 months, the division has modernised part of the fermentation capacity housed within the 800m³ plant, which it acquired at the end of 2016. In addition, Wacker has built a production line for cystine. Capital spending for the site totals some €30 million. In the next few months, the plant will be gradually qualified and ramped up to full capacity. The new site enables Wacker to meet the rising global demand for cystine and the amino acid, cysteine, in the pharma and food industries. ‘With our investment in the León site, we are well equipped to strengthen our position as a global market and technology leader for fermentation-generated cystine,’ says Dr Gerhard

Schmid, head of Wacker Biosolutions. ‘The modernised fermentation plant and the new cystine production plant enable us to reliably meet our customers’ growing demand for cysteine and cystine and to commercialise new fermentation-generated products.’ These ingredients are widely used in the pharmaceutical, cosmetics and food industries. Cysteine and cystine are known for their free-radical scavenging benefits in cosmetics and are used as an expectorant in cough medicines. According to Wacker, it is the first company in the world to produce cystine by fermentation using a patented biotech process. Due to the entirely plantbased and inorganic nature of the raw materials, the company’s cystine and cysteine are purely vegetarian. This makes them especially safe for use in pharma and food products.

VYTRUS HONOURED FOR FORMULATION INNOVATION PRESENTED DURING THE Cosmetorium conference on 26 September, Vytrus Biotech (Vytrus) won first prize in the Cosmetorium Awards. The conference took place in Barcelona and was organised by the Spanish Association of Cosmetic Chemists. Vytrus was selected from 10 finalists as the winner. The finalists were chosen by a panel of five judges involved in organising the conference while the award was based on innovation in the formulation of a final product. Several factors were evaluated, from ingredients and textures to claims and packaging. The Perfect Touch, Skin Rebalancing and Vitalising Serum formulation, which it entered into the competition, includes the company’s newest active ingredient: Quora NoniPRCF. This active is produced from Noni plant stem cells, which hack the microbiome communication systems to protect skin from conditions such as acne. The composition of the serum protects the skin from imbalances in the microbiome,

The tram from Vytrus Biotech celebrates its Cosmetorium Award

minimising pores and decreasing red spots to provide smoother and healthier looking skin. Perfect Touch is based on the company’s sophisticated strategy to develop more natural and intelligent products that respect the skin and the environment. The Cosmetorium conference in Barcelona brings together industry leaders from Spain’s cosmetics industry, including experts in formulating, manufacturing and distributing cosmetics. One of its goals is to encourage progress and developments in cosmetics science and technology in Spain. The awards seek to support the most innovative efforts and ideas in cosmetics

formulation and offer the exhibiting companies a platform to showcase their innovations. During 2017 and 2018, Vytrus has won or been placed as a finalist in several international industry awards programmes. It won first prize for the active ingredient Capilia LongaPPF in the 2017 Beauty Industry Awards’ category Global Best Bair Care Ingredient. It was also selected as one of 10 finalists in the 2018 in-cosmetics Innovation Awards for Quora NoniPRCF. Quora NoniPRCF, Capilia LongaPPF and the rest of Vytrus Biotech’s active ingredients are available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals. •

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

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NEWS CO M PLIAN CE CO LU M N Jacqui Faucitt (left) accepts the Professional Beauty trophy for the Best Skin Care Supplier of 2018

Another win for RégimA

PROFESSIONAL SKIN CARE brand, RégimA continues to win awards for its products and services. At the Professional Beauty 2018 Awards, which took place on 2 September at The Venue in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg, RégimA was named Best Skin Care Supplier, winning this prestigious Industry Award for the second consecutive year. The skin care brand also won the Best Skin Care Supplier award in 2015. ‘We are proud and delighted to be named the Best Skin Care Supplier of 2018. RégimA was just as elated to receive this Professional Beauty Industry Award for two consecutive years, as we were in 2015 when RégimA was named the overall winner of the P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition,’ comments Jacqui Faucitt, CEO of RégimA. A unique anti-ageing and skin rejuvenation range, RégimA products are formulated and manufactured specifically for the use of doctors and skin care professionals. According to Professional Beauty, the awards are aimed at raising standards within the industry. They recognise beauty salons, spas, brands and beauty professionals for the passion, care and excellence that owners, managers and staff put into their businesses.

COLAB SEEKS TO VALIDATE A NON-ANIMAL TEST THE INSTITUTE FOR In Vitro Sciences (IIVS), which has an established track record in the validation of alternatives to animal testing, teamed up with BASF and Givaudan. The collaboration focused on validating an improved skin sensitisation reactivity method to address the needs of toxicologists and regulators. Scientists at BASF and Givaudan have developed the Kinetic Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay (Kinetic DPRA), a non-animal test, to predict allergic reactions in the skin known as sensitisation. Three other non-animal sensitiser tests have already been accepted internationally. However, the Kinetic DPRA test has the potential to advance beyond providing a yes or no answer to predict the potency of a sensitiser, which is required by some regulatory agencies. Until now, the only way to predict potency classifications was through animal testing. ‘Being able to determine potency with minor modifications of the wellestablished and routinely used DPRA method was highly attractive to us,’ states Dr Robert Landsiedel, vice president of experimental toxicology and ecology at BASF. ‘Once validated, we hope the Kinetic DPRA will remove

10

the need for further animal testing to determine the potency of chemicals. We are pleased that IIVS is joining our efforts to prove the method’s validity.’ Dr Andreas Natsch, head of in vitro molecular screening at Givaudan, adds: ‘Evaluating the potency of skin sensitisers is an essential step in the risk assessment to determine safe use levels, and we have shown that kinetic data is key for this.’ The validation project, designed by BASF and Givaudan, is being conducted throughout this year. Pending a successful outcome, it will be submitted to the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development in 2019. We are pleased to be working with BASF and Givaudan again to validate a technology that will be available for many industry sectors and applications,’ says Erin Hill, IIVS’ president. ‘Our ability to participate in such programmes is made possible through the generous support of our contributors.’ Other participating laboratories include The Procter & Gamble Company (developer of the original DPRA), Charles River and the Czech National Institute of Public health.

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Making claims in the face of regulatory uncertainty takes a two-pronged approach in this column, tackling two different but equally important and topical issues pertaining to the cosmetics industry. Jill Gardiner

W

ith the liquidation of the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) comes the question: do cosmetics companies now have carte blanche to make whatever claims they feel fit? No, it’s not that simple to get away with maverick claims. Appendix B – Cosmetics, of the ASA Code, is a code developed and adhered to by the industry and liquidation of the authority will not dilute the responsibility of companies to comply with the code. Self-regulation of advertising is certainly not dead in South Africa and is there to protect the consumer. Launching new products can be a daunting experience in uncertain regulatory times. Companies are advised to stick to common practice when making cosmetics claims in order for business to continue as usual. The recommendations made in the Compliance Columns published in the March ( page 7) and July ( page 8) editions of P C Review still apply. Winning at the labelling game was the title of the first Compliance Column published in September 2017 on page 8. The recent P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition highlighted how lack of attention to detail in the labelling arena can take an absolutely fabulous product and turn it into a regulatory nightmare. So, it’s time for us to revisit labelling requirements. The following is a handy checklist to take into account when launching a new product: • Does the INCI listing on the primary packaging match that on the secondary packaging? • Have you used correct INCI nomenclature? • Did you remember the space between the quantity and the unit of measure when declaring the nominal fill e.g. 50 ml? • Does your product have a batch number for traceability purposes? • Is the copy legible i.e. is there sufficient contrast between the copy and the background colour and is the font size suitable? You will understand how important the small things are if you have ever spent a night in a room with a mosquito. Once bitten twice shy! • Jill Gardiner is an independent industry expert and educator.


1

STREET 2

1 Level up with nude makeup The Sorbet nude makeup palette contains nine natural shades, tones and tints expertly crafted for South African women to take on the world bare-faced and beautiful. Earlier in the year, the salon launched the ongoing campaign Makeup Gets Real. The palette forms part of this campaign so the eye colour, brow powder, highlighter and bronzer allow users to level up their authenticity with perfectly arched brows and cheeks and just the right amount of peach. The palette is available in Clicks stores and select Sorbet salons.

2 Deo brand does body wash In a move set to invigorate the personal care market, well-known deodorant brand Shower to Shower has introduced a range of body washes. The trio is available in Fresh Powder – a shower crème with subtle powder fragrance for velvety soft skin, Fresh Escape – a body wash with aloe vera extract, and Fresh Happiness – a body wash with orange extract and a zesty citrus undertone. All three variants are pH balanced and formulated with tissue oil and multi-vitamins. They are packaged in a 500mℓ bottle with a flip-top lid.

3 Get in the mood

3

4

Lady Prelox is said to be the first proven health supplement in South Africa which addresses sexual function in women. The plant-based dietary supplement incorporates a patented formula that promotes sexual comfort and pleasure. Key ingredients include Pycnogenol botanical extract, the patented rosehip extract Rosvita, L-Arginine natural amino acid and another vital amino acid, L-Citrulline Another. Lady Prelox is available from most leading pharmacies. It is imported into the country by Lamelle Research Laboratories and can also be purchased on its website.

4 Say goodbye to chafing Protect skin from friction related chafing, blisters, rashes and sores with Wintergreen’s Anti-Chafe Cream. The cream creates an effective and long lasting barrier, protecting the skin from chafing as a result of moisture, sweat and friction. It goes on smooth and silky, is waterproof, has natural antifungal and antiseptic properties and is formulated with tea tree oil and shea butter. Wintergreen Anti-

5

Chafe cream is sold in a 75mℓ tube or a 500mℓ tub, at leading retailers or online, at www.wintergreen.co.za.

5 Ready, set, sweat! Inspired by the athleisure trend and formulated specifically for skin that sweats, Oolala Sweat is a genderless skin care range for men and women who love to workout. The range includes three products for a pre- and post-workout skin care regime and can be used as an effective daily routine, even on non-workout days. The three in one activated charcoal product cleanses, tones and exfoliates the skin. The cucumber and juniper berry mist keeps the face hydrated and there is an SPF15 daily moisturiser. P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

11


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| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

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EVENTS

Grow from knowledge The African continent is one of the most exciting new markets for growth. While there is immense potential for brand and supplier development in its home and personal care industries, barriers exist, such as nonharmonised regulations and access to forex. By Abby Vorster

H

on trading in Africa

launched in the future. Hypermarket and

demand results and often want to see them

super market stores are the most popular

immediately, which leaves hydroquinone in

in Kenya.

a league of its own as alternative solutions on the market are not nearly as effective. •

In Cameroon, consumers turn to beauty specialist retailers for all their hair and skin care needs while the bustling Saturday and Sunday markets are where most Ethiopians purchase their home care products. For home and personal care manufacturers, sourcing quality raw materials is a common challenge while

1: Zdenek Toman of Dabur South Africa, Eyoel Shewangizaw of East African Lion Brands Industries and Will Coetsee of Botanica Natural Products 2: Uchenna Nwakanma of PZ Cussons Nigeria 3: Rubarb Abdoolla of Euromonitor International 4: Simonne Solarsh of IntrisicurlyMe with Chantel McCallum and Christein Gordon of Croda South Africa 5: Adelia Pimentel of the CTFA and Mark Hobbs of Indigo Brands

those based in east Africa say access air care is the biggest category

to forex is their biggest hurdle. The

in Africa’s personal care

recent recession in Nigeria saw many

industry, followed closely by skin

manufacturers co-creating with their

care. Categories such as bath

suppliers in order to lock down volumes

and shower, colour cosmetics and male grooming are growing, while baby care

and guarantee supply. Often the ingredients purchased from

and sun care are among the smallest.

suppliers in China are of a substandard

Urban women consume the most

quality or the contents differ from what’s

hair and skin care products and are

stated on the packaging label. This puts

perceived to have great influence in

both the manufacturer and consumers

driving developments in both categories.

at risk, sparking the demand for South

Yet their preferences differ from one

African suppliers to develop regional

African country to the next. This makes it

partnerships to open up access to

crucial for brand owners, manufacturers

raw materials.

and their suppliers to adopt a country

Government regulations also differ

specific approach when doing business

in most African countries. This is another

in Africa. Ways to do so were discussed at

area where regional partnerships are

the Africa Home & Personal Care Markets

ideal to help local suppliers avoid issues

summit, which took place on 26 and 27

when exporting.

2

September at the Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel in Sandton, Johannesburg. Delegates from Africa and the

According to Uchenna Nwakanma, head of R&D at PZ Cussons Nigeria, Nigerians

the event, organised by Singapore’s

are highly hygiene conscious. They

Centre for Management Technology.

favour home care products with antiseptic and anti-bacterial claims and are

from South Africa and various east

driven by cues such as the fragrance

and west African countries. Their

of a product. For example, Nigerians

presentations provided in depth insight

perceive a pine oil fragranced product

into Africa’s unconventional distribution

as effective because they connect this

channels, the trends in various market

smell to the smell of a hospital.

segments and challenges regarding raw materials sourcing.

3

The hygiene factor

world as well as local guests attended

The programme featured speakers

1

4

They also connect better with brands that convey a wellness message, with most Nigerians interested in skin care

Channels and challenges

products that restore their natural beauty.

In Nigeria, bulk sales occur in outdoor

Nwakanma says this is because they

markets, with chain store growth highly

are well aware of the negative effects of

evident in Lagos. There are currently 22

hydroquinone and are shying away from

Shoprite Checkers located throughout

skin lightening. Unfortunately, Nigerian

the country with more stores to be

women, like other women worldwide,

5

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

13


FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

A World Tour Through Scent

A

s part of the 10th edition of the Rives de la beauté, located at the Galerie Joseph, in Paris, France,

Symrise presented A World Tour Through Scent from 19 to 23 September. This project unites the fragrance house Symrise, the magazine Nez and photographers of the Tendance Floue group, to reveal a global cultural cartography of olfaction. For several months, 13 Symrise perfumers visited 11 destinations around the world, accompanied by a reporter and a photographer to discover global scents and olfactory cultures. These trips have inspired 12 olfactory scents and 11 photographic white cards analysing the representation of odours and olfactory concepts.

Stronger than ever According to Véronique Ferval, Symrise’s VP of creation, global fine fragrance, the company is strengthening its fine fragrance perfume team with three young talents from the Symrise perfumery school: Leslie Gauthier, Marine Ipert and Suzy Le Helley. Master perfumer, Annick Ménardo, will also be joining Symrise. An extra-ordinary scent creator, Ménardo has marked contemporary perfumery with iconic creations such as Lolita Lempicka, Dior Bois d’Argent, Dior Hypnotic Poison, Hugo Boss Boss Bottled, YSL Body Kouros, Bulgari Black and Calvin Klein Women. ‘We are all super excited to have Ménardo with us, she

Symrise continues to shape a new era in fragrance. Its newest developments are five new De Laire bases; Philyra – an AI based perfumery project; and a strategic partnership with Payan Bertrand.

is an amazing perfumer who has created unbelievable icons. She has the right personality to help drive our fine fragrance vision and to become the game changer we are aiming to be in the industry,’ says Ferval.

A strategic partnership To expand its range of exceptional natural ingredients, Symrise is entering a new and exclusive partnership with Payan Bertrand, a producer of raw materials based in Grasse, France. While Ricardo Omori, senior VP global fine fragrance at Symrise revealed this partnership globally, Wesley Irwin, sales director of Symrise’s scent and care division, shared the news with the local industry, at the P C Review/ Symrise New Product Competition Awards. ‘It will allow Symrise to expand our palette by highlighting the most beautiful and unique ingredients in the fine fragrance and perfumery industry,’ he comments. ‘It’s an exclusive association, which filters through to the business in South Africa and Symrise will be putting resources into Payan Bertrand to maximise capabilities to take the global business to a new level in fine fragrance development.’ Investments in into its team of perfumers and raw materials offering will provide Symrise’s fine fragrance business unit a solid base for the next year’s growth path and confirms its position as a key player in fine perfumery.

14

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Véronique Ferval


FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

new De Laire bases - Poivre Pique DL is a

osmanthus brings richness and character for a powerful fruity refinement.

return to luxury craftsmanship; a black gem artfully created with

- Mousse De Saxe 18 DL, the

the precision of a hand-stitched

most iconic De Laire moss, marks the

haute couture piece. Its olfactive

return of the iconic vintage scent

impact is realised with the fusion of black pepper and neon aniseed. The

modernised with an elegant silver

burst of adrenaline and a biting freshness

touch. Its olfactive impact is a

are expressed by the vibrant aromatic flash of

refined and deep mossy note

Symrise’s captive, Belanis. A piercing and incisive

draped in a marbled leather

pepper give a contrasted magnetic freshness in

with shimmering powdery facets. The underwood and dewy effect

this base.

of the Absolu Fucus is illuminated

- Tubeliane DL enchants with exquisite floralcy.

and enlivened with Spicatanate, the sparkling captive from Symrise.

This base re-examines the iconic Tuberiane base of the ’60s, reviving its heady charms. Its olfactive impact is a very

- Tabac Bourbon DL, a

textured white flower, delicate and airy, with a touch if green earthiness to capture the naturality and exquisite

supreme smoky signature, is

quality of the tuberose heart. Fresh, green and dewy,

an exquisite tobacco note

Symrise’s captive Lilybelle gives the base a lift and ray

infused with a vintage liquor blend warmed up with the

of luminosity.

most precious spices of madagascar, vanilla and

- You can taste the new fruity addiction in

Osmanthus Guilin DL. This

cinnamon. It dares to embrace the warmth of Tabanone Coeur,

delicate and addictive osmanthus with

which captures the essence of

iris powder and violet flowers gives

burning tobacco leaves rounded off by

a velvety skin touch. It is extremely

the unique sweetness and delicacy of Symrise’s

soft and round, contrasted with the succulent smell of apricot flesh and

captive, Tonkalactone. This De Laire base is a Grand

juicy pear from Symrise’s captive,

Cru of tobacco – a shot of intriguing character and dark opulence.

Pearadise. The signature of this

Breaking new fragrance ground with AI In partnership with IBM Research,

the design process,’ says Achim Daub,

fragrance note and improve how long it

Symrise is using artificial intelligence

president of Symrise Scent & Care.

lasts on skin.

(AI) to create perfumes based on digital

Creating fragrances requires highly

‘Perfumery is an ancient art. It moves

fragrance models. The project is called

detailed precision – even if the system

slowly through history and can seem

Philyra. The first phase will result in two

deviates only minimally from the

unchanged for centuries. But there

fragrances created for O Boticario which

specified amounts, it either makes or

are moments of historic significance

will be brought to market in 2019.

breaks a new perfume. Philyra uses a

that are undeniable. The last great

data-driven approach and accesses

explosion of innovation began in the

winning perfume has been something

a gigantic data bank consisting of

late 19 th century with the introduction of

Symrise has been doing for more than

fragrance formulas; fragrance families

synthetic fragrance raw materials into

200 years. Now our perfumers can work

such as fruity, oriental or flowery; as well

the perfumer’s pallet. AI is quite simply

directly with an AI apprentice, who can

as historical information.

the next frontier of perfumery innovation

‘The art and science of designing a

analyse thousands of formulas and

Symrise perfumer, David Apel from the

and discovery. Watching it unfold and

historical data to identify patterns and

New York Studio is the first to work with

helping direct it is a privilege and the

predict novel combinations. This will help

Philyra, using and minimally tweaking

most significant milestone in my career,’

to increase productivity and accelerate

the suggestions to emphasise a certain

states Apel.

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

15


FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

English Leather steps out in a feminine number Provocative and captivating, Fisher Brands has launched English Leather Woman. Developed and produced in South Africa in line with international standards, the new fragrance range has been made possible through solid relationships with suppliers, which offer consistently high quality products and services. By Abby Vorster

DKNY and Hugo Boss. We have four variants

perfumers with a greater understanding of

in our English Leather fragrance range for

the fine fragrance market in South Africa.’

men which jointly appeal to most male

A total of 30 fragrances were tested

consumer age groups. I felt the time was

among 500 demographically correct

right to expand the brand into the female

perfume users over a period of six

market and what better way to do so, than

months. Of the 30 fragrances, four are

with English Leather Woman,’ says company

among the top sellers in South Africa,

MD, Mike Fisher. ‘The vision

including D&G Light Blue, Red Door,

was to create a fragrance that defines the essence of women. Fittingly, our new fragrance has

M ike Fis her and Linda De Andrade

Black XS and Avon’s Far Away while the remaining 26 were new creations

been designed by a woman

selected in Paris. All the

for women.’

samples were coded and

Following extensive

randomly selected by the

consumer research

participants in a simulated

conducted by Symrise into

retail environment. The

the perfume preferences of

selection process ran for

long standing South African

South African consumers,

two-week intervals over

brand, English Leather has

Symscent proactively

six months.

been a market leader in the

submitted a series of new

male masstige fragrance

product ideas to Fisher Brands, which

available as English Leather Woman, was

category for over half a century. Current

led to the development of English

one of the top performers in this consumer

market trends prompted the fragrance

Leather Woman.

research project,’ adds Reynolds.

A

house, Fisher Brands, to cross the divide

Margaret Reynolds of Symscent

‘The fragrance, now

Characterised by its floral, ambery

and launch its first female fragrance

comments: ‘As the official Symrise

scent, English Leather Woman

under the English Leather umbrella.

distributor, we have access to the

encompasses a melting pot of intriguing

fragrance oils used in the consumer

notes to trigger the senses at various

female fragrances within the same brand

research. The project was initiated

levels. The top notes are based on

works extremely well for many successful

at the request of Symrise’s team in Paris,

a blend of fruit infusions including

international brands such as Calvin Klein,

France, which sought to provide global

bergamot and Asian mandarin, which

‘The cross link between male and

16

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review


FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS set a tantalising tone. Florals such as

Conceptualised by Sorted Design &

exotic orchid, ylang ylang and jasmine

Advertising in Cape Town, it features

form the heart of the fragrance,

the signature English Leather saddle

exuding sophistication and playful

logo on a subtle antique rose, leather-

intrigue. It settles with an intoxicating

look print.

fusion of amber, vanilla, musk and

We are a relatively small, family business and consider our suppliers part of this family

‘We are a relatively small, family

Tonka bean base notes, making it the

business and consider our suppliers

perfect aromatic accessory for the all-

part of this family,’ Fisher explains.

encompassing woman.

‘They have all shared in the excitement of the English Leather

Good relationships matter

Woman project, anticipating the

English Leather Woman is available in a

completion of various finished

30 and 50mℓ eau de parfum and a 90mℓ

products and their sell-through.

aromatic compounds in the solvent.

parfum body mist. There is a limited edition

Although it’s early days, it’s already

The use of a high concentration

promotional launch offer, consisting of the

exceeding expectations.’

of fragrance oils is an undeniable

parfum body mist and an eau de parfum fragrance wand. With Christmas around

selected for the two different

the corner, Fisher Brands has also created

sized eau de parfum

an exclusive three piece gift set that

products. The bottle is flat

includes an eau de parfum, parfum body

and bulbous in design

mist and a hand and nail treatment.

and features a clear

The packaging design for the English

lid. To complement

Leather Woman cartons, labels and

the soft pink hue of the

shrink sleeves is simple yet sophisticated.

magical liquid within the bottle, an antique

The exclusive, three piece English Leather Woman gift set

feature of all Fisher Brands’

A heavy-based glass bottle was

DID YOU KNOW?

fragrances, which are known for their intensity and

The English Leather brand has a strong presence in the South African market. The original English Leather fragrance for men is still a classic; English Leather Woman is expected to follow suit with its elegance and intrigue.

style rose-coloured ribbon

scent longevity.’ Based in Johannesburg, Remancos is home to a state of the art manufacturing plant and laboratory and an adjacent packing facility.

The company offers custom,

is tied around its neck. The bottle, atomiser and cap are all

third party solutions, including

supplied by Moco Packaging

formulation development, stability and

while the eau de parfum

safety testing, blending and filling,

products are manufactured and

sourcing of packaging and graphic

packed by Remancos.

design services. Kalil and her team are also

‘The pure fragrance oil supplied by Symscent is

responsible for formulating and

formulated into a solvent

manufacturing the limited edition

and stability tested by us,’

hand and nail treatment. The cream

says Candice Kalil, owner of

is fragranced with the unique English

Remancos. ‘We also fill the

Leather Woman scent and formulated

fragrance and crimp the bottles

with ingredients to moisturise the skin

on site. The perfume is classified

and nourish the nails. It is packed in a

as an “eau de parfum” due

75mℓ tube with a self-adhesive label

to the high concentration of

supplied by Zippy Labels.

Distributors of Fine Fragrances

Proudly appointed distributor of Symrise Fragrances, Cosmetic Ingredients and Aroma Molecules

Tel: 011 791 0312 | Fax : 086 273 2283 sales@symscent.co.za | www.symscent.co.za

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

17


FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

We take pride in being a supplier to high value brands such as Fisher Brands

A perfect print According to Maryke Thomas, co-owner of Zippy Labels, tube applications are a challenge in that the tube is squeezed and released. ‘This requires the use of a polyethylene self-adhesive material for the label because of its forgiving stretch properties,’ she explains. ‘With the squeeze and release function of a tube, the label is put under stress. Using polyethylene allows

Daniel Hanson, co-owner of ISW says the size and choice of the material ensures the best shrink possible, giving a tight fit on the aerosol can, preventing any distortion. ‘There are many benefits to using shrink sleeves instead of printed cans, particularly from a flexibility perspective. The minimum order requirements of printed cans are generally quite high and additional space is needed to store the

the label to return to its former state with

of the self-adhesive label market due to

empty cans. Shrink sleeves give the brand

minimal wrinkling.’

our broad range of printing capabilities,’

owner and manufacturer the flexibility

says Thomas. ‘Our modern and diverse

to produce smaller runs, which is often

labels, Zippy Labels produced the ‘limited

label printing plant, based in Germiston,

the requirement when launching a new

offer’ labels. Both are printed on a state

includes the HP Indigo as well as a versatile

product,’ he explains.

of the art HP Indigo WS6800 seven colour

MPS EF340 eight colour flexographic label

digital press. It also produced a banded

press and a Mark Andy P3 eight colour

cover the cans and they can tear or scuff

pack sleeve, which is printed on a

performance series flexographic press.

during transport or when products are being

flexographic label press.

Digitally printed labels eliminates the need

packed on shelves. The graphics on shrink

for printing plates, saving clients these

sleeves are protected from scuffing because

which has been printing labels for the past

costs. The digital printing press gives us the

they are reverse printed. By completely

24 years. ‘Our company is at the forefront

versatility to offer a wide range of printed

wrapping the can, shrink sleeves give the

products from high quality labels and

look and feel of a printed aerosol, improving

sachets to sleeves and pallet wraps. It also

the shelf appeal of products. Depending

speeds up our turnaround time.’

on the budget, they can be printed with

In addition to the self-adhesive tube

Zippy Labels is a family owned business,

English Leather Woman 50mℓ

Traditional labels cannot completely

Zippy Labels is honoured to have

ENGLISH LEATHER WOMAN’S OLFACTIVE FAMILY AND NOTES

been selected to print various labels for the prestigious English Leather Woman launch. It has worked with the brand owner on many projects in the past, meeting Fisher Brands’ printing requirements in line with the latest trends in labelling cosmetics products.

• Family – florential • Sub-family – ambery

The beauty of shrink sleeves

• Specifier – orange flower

The parfum body mist is packaged in a 90mℓ aerosol can that is filled by Chemlink, in Randvaal, south of Johannesburg. The can features a four-colour 40 micron PVC shrink sleeve, printed by Innovation Shrink & Wrap (ISW) on an eight colour MPS EPW560 UV flexographic press. Remancos P&C 177x65mm Quarter page copy.pdf

1

2018/01/29

• Top notes – bergamot, green, peach, plum and mandarin • Mid notes – orange flower, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, tuberose, carnation, orris and orchid • Base notes – sandalwood, cedarwood, vanilla, amber, musk and Tonka bean.

10:51 AM

WE DEVELOP & MANUFACTURE NEW OR EXISTING PRODUCTS FOR YOUR LINE UTILISING OUR: • • • •

Remancos Nature is our business | www.remancos.co.za

Formulation Development In-house Laboratory Stability & Safety Testing Blending & Filling

• • • •

Production Manufacturing Plant Creative Product & Graphic Design Team Bottle & Packaging Sourcing Marketing Consulting

RESEARCH & MANUFACTURING COSMETICS

we make your dreams a reality. Tel : +27 11 791 3757 | Cell: +27 745 648268 | Fax : 086 547 1959 ADDRESS:

Unit E2, Metropolitan Park, Wakis Ave. Strijdom park, Jhb. 2196 South Africa Email: candicekalil@remancos.co.za

18

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review


FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS The body mist

thermochromic, holographic

as one of the classic

manufactured fragrances developed using

and high lustre metallic finishes

fragrance brands for men.

essential oils from leading international

or a specialised multi perforation

‘This is particularly evident

suppliers that are focused on growing

finish can be added for

in South Africa, where the

their market share beyond traditional

promotional items.

brand continues to grow and

markets. ‘Although our fragrances are of an

expand with updated variants

international quality, they are realistically

printer, ISW specialises in highly

to suit new generations and

priced,’ De Andrade adds.

decorative shrink sleeves and

trends,’ comments Fisher

‘The success of English Leather Woman

flexible packaging. The company

Brands’ national sales and

will be the springboard for further line

is proud to be a preferred supplier

marketing manager, Linda

extensions or new launches in the female

to Fisher Brands. It not only

De Andrade. ‘A noteworthy

fragrance category. We are keen to

produces shrink sleeves for the

feature of any English Leather

expand in this category as new market

new parfum body mist but also

fragrance is its long-lasting

trends evolve.’ •

for all the company’s existing

scent, which provides all

English Leather, Integrity, Ensign,

day freshness.

As a leading flexographic

Michaelgameplan, Bondi Blu and Thumbelina aerosol products. ‘We take pride in being a

As a result, the original fragrance is still a firm favourite for the more mature

supplier to high value brands

man. This attribute has

such as Fisher Brands and in

passed on a desire from

seeing their products stand out on

father to son to continue the

retail shelves,’ adds Hanson.

English Leather legacy, with each generation using one

A fragrance legacy

or more of the fragrance

English Leather has stood the

variations available.’

test of time. It was launched in 1957 in the USA and is regarded

Fisher Brands provides African consumers with locally

Chemlink – richardh@carbotec.co.za Fisher Brands – www.fisherbrands.co.za Innovation Shrink & Wrap – www.iswshrink.co.za Moco Packaging – www.mocopack.co.za Remancos – www.remancos.co.za Sorted Design & Advertising – www.sortedadvertising.co.za Symscent – margaret@symscent.co.za Zippy Labels – www.zippylabels.co.za

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

19


FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

Good for the body,

soul and perfumery

The desire for natural ingredients, ethical luxury and sustainable consumption are key trends in the beauty and fragrance market. It takes a special kind of expertise to preserve naturalness in these products. Düllberg Konzentra explains how it’s achieved with essential oils.

N

ature may be free for all,

students and the ‘creative class’ – all

but naturalness is more valuable than ever. The desire for

naturalness in cosmetics and perfumery – giving exclusive essential oils a chance to take centre stage. Is there a principle that defines desire? If there is, it

of whom are status-driven pleasureseekers – are key trendsetters.

DID YOU KNOW?

In the past, cars were

On request, Düllberg Konzentra can manufacture essential oils and pharma ingredient compositions in accordance with the European Pharmacopoeia and GMP for capsules, cough syrups and suspensions, tablet coatings and nutraceuticals.

harnessing their benefits in body care, cosmetics and perfumery,’ he adds. This presents challenges, as Lüke

expression. Now, the

knows very well: ‘Essential oils and

focus is on sustainable,

complex mixtures of terpenoids and

conscious consumerism

other compounds are obtained from

– a mindset in which

various parts of plants, such as flowers,

naturalness plays an

leaves, seeds and resins. The complex

especially prominent role.

composition of essential oils makes

‘Naturalness, including

obtaining and processing them a

natural ingredients for beauty

own sphere, the stronger the desire

on using these traditional ingredients and

a means of personal

could be summed up as ‘the further something is from one’s

even cancer. Yet the main focus remains

demanding and unique task.’

products, is a form of ethical luxury

to possess it, influencing the demand’.

that shuns waste and instead focuses

Consistent quality is key

This could explain why the longing

on conscious, mindful pleasure,’ says

Düllberg Konzentra’s portfolio includes

for the countryside, for nature and

Christian Lüke, marketing and R&D

several hundreds of botanical ingredients

naturalness is particularly pronounced

director at Düllberg Konzentra. This

and essential oils in different qualities, from

amongst urban populations. The

Hamburg-based fragrance company

certified organic and refined to completely

seed of the organic trend was sown in

has been supplying natural essential

natural. They are used in fine perfumery,

the cities – from here it has flourished

oils to beauty and fragrance brands

premium niche perfumery, household

much like superfoods, veganism and

for over 75 years. ‘For centuries, natural

perfumery, cosmetics products and in

natural skin care.

essential oils were almost exclusively

pharmaceuticals and aromatherapy.

used in medicine and healthcare.

The trendsetters

Modern aromatherapy first emerged

Due to the heterogeneous composition of the different oils, working with them

Big cities are ‘the laboratories of new

at the beginning of the 20th century.

developments’, according to the

Now, serious scientific research is being

The company also has a portfolio of

market research institute, GfK. Singles;

conducted into the effects of essential

so-called ‘natura fragrances’, which are

DINKS or double income, no kids;

oils, for instance on viruses, bacteria and

natural oil blends eligible for certification

Zinplex Cosmeceutical Advert.pdf 1 2018/10/29 15:29:25

demands considerable perfumery expertise.

Manufacturers of cosmetic, hair & body products from development to production

C

M

Y

MY

R&D, formulating and stability in our fully equipped laboratory • Small to large scale batches • Quality, efficient and friendly customer service • mark

CY

registered • Customer confidentiality guaranteed with NDA’s in place.

CM

Production capabilities: Hair, Body and Skin Care, Liquid Sachet filling, Creams, Lotions, Butters, Gels and Oils.

CMY

K

Zinplex Cosmeceutical (Pty) Ltd • t: 086 111 9462 • f: 012 803 9283 • e: cosmeceutical@zinplex.co.za

20

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Bottling of still mineral water Personalised labels available for any occasion Terms and Conditions Apply


FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS in accordance with the major bodies, including COSMOS, Eco-Cert and NATRUE. These

ESSENTIAL OILS – THE BESTSELLERS • Eucalyptus globulus grows in Australia, the

blends are ideally

Mediterranean, India and South America. Eucalyptus

suited for use in

essential oil is obtained from the leaves through

organic cosmetics.

steam distillation; the oil content is about two

Lüke is delighted

percent. Eucalyptus has a revitalising and refreshing

about the rising interest

effect on the mind, it can help boost concentration

in exclusive, natural essential oils: ‘The market

and assist in treating colds. • Lavandula officinalis or Lavandula Angustifolia are

and the demand for these

popular in aromatherapy. Lavender essential oil has

products will continue to grow.

a balancing, relaxing and antispasmodic effect and

However, it is important to remember that

it can promote sleep. It is also used to help alleviate

purity, authenticity and a consistently

asthma. The essential oil is obtained by steam

high and standardised quality play

distillation of the herb; the oil content of the plant and

a very important role, particularly for natural products. At Düllberg Konzentra

flowers is about one percent. • Mentha piperita grows worldwide, including Europe,

we are acknowledged specialists. Any

Asia and North and South America. Peppermint

brand that aims to offer consumers

essential oil is widely used in aromatherapy for its

natural luxury is in the best possible

refreshing, clarifying and cooling effects. It can boost

hands with us.’ •

concentration. Medically, it is also used to assist with treating asthma and colds. The essential oil

Düllberg Konzentra – www.duellberg-konzentra.de/en

is obtained by steam distillation of the herb; its oil content is approximately two percent.

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

21


FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

SA’s fragrant future lies in niche perfumery

T

he global fragrance market is

A nose for niche

shifting. Mass market fragrance

Like most global fragrance markets, in

growth has slowed down, making

South Africa the premium segment is mainly

way for more premium offerings.

dominated by multinationals. However, the

These changes are also driven by market demand leaning more towards niche products. By 2020, fragrances are expected to

niche segment is yet to be fully developed. Argeville, a fragrances and flavours producer, believes the emergent niche category might present some of the greatest

represent 33 percent in value of overall

growth prospects for local manufacturers

beauty and personal care sales in

and suppliers. This is because creativity,

South Africa. Solid growth is anticipated

high end product development and batch

for premium fragrances. According to

manufacturing of smaller volumes are

Euromonitor International, between 2018

already standard within the industry.

1 1: Classically packaged, the Ambrette & Gingembre Eau de Parfum and Ambrette & Violette scented candle are fragranced with perfume oils from Argeville 2: Based on patchouli, Argeville displays its Les BaBas Cool perfumery compound and a scented candle

2

and 2020, sales of premium women’s

Established in 1921, in the south of

fragrances are expected to rise by 26

France, Argeville first started its business

room fragrances, detergents and household

percent while the market for men’s

by farming and producing natural raw

products and for industrial applications.

will stabilise.

materials for perfumery. Today, it is ranked

Argeville’s core markets are EDTs, personal

Even when compared to Euromonitor’s

the third largest French company active in

care and soaps and its South African

estimates for the period 2009 to 2014 – which

the production of perfumery raw materials,

partner and distributor is Carst & Walker. •

stated Middle East and Africa contributed

perfumery compounds and food flavours.

31 percent of the global market’s growth –

It supplies perfumery compounds into

there is still immense potential to develop the

various industry segments, including EDTs,

South African fragrance market.

cosmetics and toiletries, home care and

Argeville – www.argeville.com Carst & Walker – aurora.pakkies@carst.co.za

Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz

Sensetek.indd 1

22

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

2017/03/02 11:50 AM


FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

New scent boosting technology

The demand for intense and long-lasting fragrance creations is not limited to perfumery but also a requirement in laundry and household care applications. Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA reveal its newest high-performance delivery systems.

T

o make fragrances more intense and last longer, Bell Flavors

can enjoy their favourite fresh fragrance from the moment they open

& Fragrances EMEA (Bell) continues to research and develop

the washing machine, while folding laundry and days later when

different fragrance delivery systems. Its products and

wearing their clothing.

technologies are available in South Africa from Fourchem.

‘In addition to our liquid perfume oils, our development efforts are

focused on solid fragrances,’ explains chief application technician,

Bell develops its technologies in close cooperation with its customers. Bell MikroBurst, for example, can be used in both laundry and personal care products.

Peter Rabke. ‘With the aim of revolutionising the fragrance industry with high performance products, we’ve developed capsule

Scented candles

technology for a variety of applications. This enables, among other

Scenti Masterbatch technology from Bell is a quality solid fragrance

things, an above average concentration of perfume oil.’

product developed specifically for candles. The special composition prevents the perfume from leaching from the candle even at high

Laundry care with a kick

fragrance concentrations. This prolongs the shelf life of the candle

Bell MikroBurst, a patented microcapsule solution, doesn’t break

during storage and ensures the scent is released only when the

down during the washing cycle. Instead it constantly releases a scent.

candle is burning.

Combined with the Bell Laundry Pearls laundry perfume, which is added directly to the washing drum, manufacturers can tailor the

With this technology, Bell offers manufacturers a solution to achieve premium quality in the scented candles market. •

laundry care system to their needs. The entire portfolio offered by the fragrance company can be incorporated into sophisticated laundry care products. Consumers

Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA – www.bell-europe.com Fourchem – www.fourchem.co.za

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

23


PHARMA FOCUS//Aseptic Processing

Prevent contamination and increase productivity

Mitigating contamination risks in critical environments are central to producing safe and effective medicines. When it comes to healthcare, consumer trust is won by producing effective remedies and, in equal measure, on the safety record of the pharmaceutical manufacturer.

S

tandards in cleanroom manufacturing environments have evolved in tandem with medical and pharma

technology, placing specialised cleaning to ensure safety and hygiene, under the spotlight. Industrial cleaning equipment company, Nilfisk takes pride in the role it plays in helping pharma manufacturers comply with stringent industry requirements. Amongst other Nilfisk’s industrial vacuum range for wet and dry applications is an ideal choice for cleanrooms and pharma manufacturing environments

services, the company can provide ISO 4-certified air filtration systems for its clients. All Nilfisk machinery designed for

air entering the cleanroom, as well as

compact and easy to clean design.

the pharma industry is proven to be

any dust or particles produced in the

With the walk-behind scrubber dryer

highly reliable and made of premium

manufacturing process that could harm

series, floors are deep-cleaned and

quality materials.

human operators.

dried in a single pass, even in small and

Nilfisk has the expertise and

congested areas.

Customisation and training

resources to develop products

The task of preventing contamination is

according to customers’ needs. Its

requirements, the Nilfisk Ecoflex system

immense, but it’s not insurmountable.

automated, enclosed pneumatic

allows for a temporary boost of water and

Filters for high (HEPA) and ultra-high

conveyors used to feed processing

detergent, depending on the size of the task

efficiency (ULPA) are essential elements

machines are a key example of its

at hand.

of a cleanroom, depending on the

ability to customise solutions.

nature of the contaminants to be

For more aggressive cleaning

The buildings that house pharma production facilities also need to be kept

controlled. In Nilfisk’s experience,

Clean and hygienic

clean, making them another vital factor

focusing on key elements will help keep

Large particles and dirt within a

in contributing to contamination-free

the manufacturing line and its environs

manufacturing facility can be eliminated

production environments.

free of contaminants.

by deep-cleaning floors and using

Continuous training is necessary and critical in minimising human error. Operators may tend to override or forget

specialised equipment certified for use

DID YOU KNOW?

in ISO 4 cleanrooms.

The task of eliminating contamination becomes difficult if the environments in which staff operate are not kept sufficiently

This same machinery is

clean. This includes the need for proper

equally suited to maintaining

lighting and ventilation and efficiently

Control of the introduction hygiene standards on a of contamination into a be programmed into packaging line. cleanroom is the most critical automated systems. Nilfisk’s walk-behind concern for the entire cleaning The training of staff scrubber dryer series has and disinfection process. should be underpinned proven to be effective Source: PDA Technical by strict rules and protocols in various areas within a Report No. 70 that prescribe processes and pharmaceutical facility, from

designed work areas conducive to an easy

actions to prevent contamination

are sophisticated and high-tech, pharma

the fail-safes that can

small to medium laboratories and

and regular cleaning regime. Maintaining the strict standards required in pharma manufacturing can be challenging. Yet, with the right attitude, validated processes and by partnering with suppliers of approved solutions that

through human error. With proper

around a production site. This series

companies and R&D laboratories can not

protocols in place, specific focus can be

assures maximum hygiene in the shortest

only attain but also maintain compliant

placed on keeping the manufacturing

time possible – which is key during

safety standards. •

environment clean. This requires a

changeover to minimise downtime. It

targeted approach that includes filtering

also offers comfort and productivity in a

24

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Nilfisk – www.nilfisk.co.za


Pharma in focus - Dedicated vacuum and cleaning solutions

In the demanding world of pharmaceutical production, Nilfisk’s range of specialist equipment has what it takes to keep your business safe, hygienic and productive. From powder, granule and capsule conveyance, dust containment, the recovery of packaging scraps or powder from process machines, right down to the cleaning of clean rooms, floors and equipment – Nilfisk can help you create the safe, efficient and hygienic environment that such a demanding industry requires. See how we can help your business.

www.nilfisk.co.za


PHARMA FOCUS//Aseptic Processing

Guarantee sterility and maximise efficiencies Marchesini has been providing the pharma industry with automated solutions for decades. Its expanded aseptic processing portfolio includes a new Stery-La model and an alu-capping machine, Capsy-LC, for small volume parenteral products.

A

lthough it’s new, Stery-La boasts

A custom designed system has been

As a result of its ‘Made in Italy’ design,

the traditional Marchesini

installed to manage the rubber stoppers,

the machine not only complies with the

vertical balcony design, which

even when the stoppers stick. The stopper

regulations for manufacturing injectables,

perfectly separates the filling

pre-infeed and infeed systems have been

but also halves washing, drying and

process from the mechanical components,

integrated into the machine to ensure the

bio-decontamination times compared to

located at the back of the machine.

highest possible standards of accessibility

conventional machines.

The laminar flow has reached the highest possible level of efficiency to ensure product

and ergonomics. The Stery-La features an Isol-Air isolator,

Once filled by Stery-La, the vial containing the liquid product is sent to the Capsy-LC for

sterility. The balcony technology also makes

which can be supplied together with the

it possible to discharge or recover the

air conditioning system (HVAC), sized to

air from the laminar air flow, through the

cut the decontamination cycle times, with

Lyo drugs, half stoppered vials can by-

bottom. This ensures a uniform flow of air

hydrogen peroxide vapours. With these

pass the capping station to be fed to the

without dead zones or turbulence. It also

special features, Stery-La complies with the

automatic loading system of a freeze dryer.

makes it much easier to clean the machine.

regulatory requirements for manufacturing

Once lyophilised, full stoppered vials return

Combined with the peristaltic pumps

injectables. Water consumption is reduced

from the freeze dryer and run along the

and rotary piston pumps installed on

during the wash in place cycle, especially

internal by-pass conveyor in the opposite

Stery-La complies with the regulatory requirements for manufacturing injectables

in the case of isolated filling lines for potent

direction to be fed to the capping station.

drugs – and drying and decontamination

immediate capping. As an option, for filling lines of liquid and

This system represents a compact three-

times are halved compared with

way vial diverting system fully integrated into

conventional table-top machines.

the same isolator of the Capsy-LC machine.

Alu-capping machine

from sterile Beta-bags on the operator side.

The aseptic packaging solution is complete

In the capping phase, both the compression

with Capsy-LC, an alu-capping machine

force on the cap and its spinning speed

for small volume parenteral solutions

against the blade are controlled, so the

processed in a sterile environment. All the

process is perfectly repeatable.

The cap pre-feeder fills the hopper directly

operational zones are easily accessed

The result is a compact and efficient

the machine, Stery-La guarantees

using special gloves; maintenance

machine designed to be easily installed

impeccable batching precision,

is straightforward from the back of

against a wall, to guarantee safe use for

minimises dead product volumes and is

the machine. It is designed so that

operators and to be integrated in line with

manageable in every configuration. By

containment systems such as cRABS or

the filler, loaders, buffers and loading and

exploiting this in-process control system

isolators can be installed easily.

unloading units for freeze-dried products.

throughout the production process, each

Its balcony design ensures excellent

Marchesini’s automated solutions for

vial is weighed before and after filling. Any

laminar air flow and perfect segregation

aseptic processing are available in South

out of target vials are individually rejected.

of the operational area theoretically

Africa from its local agent, MGSA Projects. •

If the target volume is systematically

contaminated by potent drugs. The zone

displaced, the filling volume dispensed

where mechanical components are

by each single dosing pump can be

installed is air-tight and separated from the

adjusted separately.

processing area.

1 & 2: The Stery-La (left) features an Isol-Air isolator (right), designed and manufactured entirely by Marchesini.

26

1

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Marchesini – www.marchesini.com MGSA Projects – myles@mgsaprojects.co.za

2


EFFICIENCY MAKES THE DIFFERENCE TO BE CONSTANTLY AT THE FOREFRONT OF TECHNOLOGY EFFICIENCY MAKES THE DIFFERENCE

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Myles Davis Myles Davis Myles Davis Myles Davis Mobile: +27 +27 (0) 82 460 2766 Mobile 82 460 Mobile: +27 (0) 82 Mobile +27 (0)(0) 82460 4602766 27662766 Email: myles@mgsaprojects.co.za Email: myles@mgsaprojects.co.za

MARCHESINI.COM MARCHESINI.COM


INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

Natural cellulose: A promising alternative to microplastics The use of microplastics in cosmetics represents a small source of this primary pollutant in marine environments, compared to other sources. Yet it could easily be avoided by switching to natural or biodegradable alternatives. Alessa Huneke and Judith Ryll of CFF and Sandra Sarembe,Vanessa Sternitzke and Andreas Kiesow of IMWS investigate the benefits of cellulose as an alternative to microplastics.

O

ur oceans are littered with

In order to produce an optimal

effects. Identical formulations were

plastic waste, including

replacement for microplastics, this study

compared, each with three percent of either

microplastics. These microfine

conducted by the Fraunhofer Institute for

the cellulose particles, polyethylene, or silica,

particles find their way into

Microstructure of Materials and Systems

while two market references containing

(IMWS) and CFF set out to determine the

polyethylene and silica were used as

the sea via wastewater and end up in our food chain if they are consumed by marine life. The use of microplastic particles in personal

criteria for the desired material

DID YOU KNOW?

characteristics. The challenge was to find the ideal size,

shape, hardness and surface morphologies By 2050, there could be three prohibited in the US. that provide the times more plastic than fish in our oceans.7-9 It is also believed The British government right exfoliation that one container of followed suit, banning and cleansing microplastics could result in microplastics in benefits without 2.8 million pieces of tiny January 2018. There are causing skin irritation. plastics entering several countries in the Cellulose was our oceans. EU where similar bans are selected as the material. currently under discussion, It was specially modified and yet microplastics are still found in analysed down to its microstructure personal care products in other parts of before cellulose based exfoliating the world. particles were developed and their Their best known and most discussed biodegradability, and abrasion and application is exfoliation. As a ‘soft cleansing effects evaluated. abrasive’, microplastics help remove dead skin cells and boost blood flow to increase Material and methods circulation in the skin. They also continue Natural cellulose particles are generally to be used in some countries as cleansing made from organic and renewable raw particles in dental care products.1-5 materials. Varied in terms of their particle The hazardous potential of shape and size, they enable different microplastics is characterised by their functionalities in line with the specific harmful additives, environmental toxins targets of cosmetics applications. and morphological features.6 Cellulose from various natural In 2012, about 4 300t of microplastics sources was tested for this study. Based were used in personal care products in the on CFF’s Sensocel range of scrubs, EU alone. While the industry is researching biodegradability was tested with different and developing greener alternatives, sizes and shapes of cellulose particles significant scientific challenges exist in from different origins. The abrasion and finding a suitable replacement. Alternative cleansing performance were investigated particles need to satisfy the necessary only on the globular wood particles. Silica cleansing effects, they should be and polyethylene were incorporated as biodegradable and moderately priced. reference materials for comparison. Hydrogenated waxes, silica, sugar, salt For exfoliating formulations, in vitro and crushed plant stones or the shells measurements were performed on a and kernels of nuts have already been water based formula (see Table 1) to proposed as alternatives.10 determine the abrasion and cleansing care products is

28

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

benchmarks. The characterisation of the particles was performed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The cellulose particles were investigated with a Quanta 3D FEG from FEI. To avoid a charging effect, they were coated with an ultra-thin platinum film by magnetron sputtering. Biodegradability was verified according to DIN EN 14851 under fresh water conditions. The cellulose particles were tested in comparison to polyethylene beads and standard abrasive silica of similar particle shapes and sizes. Mechanical abrasion was evaluated on a 25 x 25mm² glass substrate, which was coated with a one micrometre layer of chrome. This coating was evaluated as the most reproducible variant in pre-tests. The substrates were fixed on a 75 x 25mm² sample holder using double-sided tape (Tesa). A brushing simulator ZM (SDMechatronic) was used to perform brushing tests at a pressure of 150g for 10 000 strokes with a one centimetre hub. A total of 96 hubs were performed per minute. The slurry was renewed after 30 minutes. The brushing unit was equipped with a silicone layer on which a 75 x 25mm TE610 Hornschuch synthetic leather surface was fixed to simulate skin. The abrasion was determined on the glass substrate by colorimetric measurements, using a spectrophotometer CM-3600A (Konica Minolta). A visual comparison was also done prior to and after brushing. The analysis of the cleansing effects of cellulose was also performed on a synthetic leather surface (using identical parameters to simulate skin in


INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION the abrasion evaluation). A total of 0.1g

parameters for the brushing tests were

The results

of Astor’s Perfect Stay 24h Foundation

identical to the abrasion tests except

Depending on the choice of material as well

and Perfect Skin Primer were applied

the number of strokes was adapted

as the milling and sieving process during

and distributed homogenously with a

to 10. The evaluation of the cleansing

manufacturing, it is possible to generate

squeegee (15µm gap). Measurements

performance was determined according

cellulose particles of different sizes (from

were taken 24 hours after applying the

to the abrasion evaluation.

20 to 800µm) and shapes (globular and

makeup. The brushing unit was equipped

Colorimetric data for different treatments

fibrous). Figure 1 shows a selection of

with a makeup sponge (ebelin) fixed

were compared using a one-way analysis

SEM images of representative cellulose

on a silicone layer. Brushing tests were

of variance (Anova) and the Tukey

particles and reference particles (silica

again performed in the simulator. The

HSD-test.

and polyethylene).

Figure 1: SEM image of cellulose particles from beech wood, polyethylene and silica

Figure 2: Biodegradability according to DIN EN 14851 of cellulose particles with varying shape from different origin in comparison to silica and PE

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

29


INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION Figure 3: Abrasion of different cleansing bodies measured by change of colour ΔE

The polyethylene particles range in

Figure 4: Cleaning efficacy [%] of different cleansing bodies

The measurements also show cellulose

it has a mild and gentle cleansing

size from 50 to 100µm while silica varied

particles of varying particle sizes

effect. Cellulose also matches up

in particle size between 50 and 80µm.

offer different levels of exfoliation. The

the cleaning performance of low

Biodegradability results are depicted in

combination of two different sized particles,

abrasive polyethylene.

Figure 2, showing the distribution of the

notably globular beech cellulose particles,

non-degraded residue and degraded part

100 and 300µm in size, results in a higher

of the particles after 39 days. Depending

abrasion in comparison to the individual

on the origin and shape of the cellulose

abrasiveness of the different particle sizes.

particles, their biodegradability ranges

The cleansing efficacy is tabled in Figure

Biodegradable cellulose is an optimal ingredient for dermal cleansing

from 78 to 100 percent after one to two

4. A visual comparison was also done to

months. Polyethylene and silica are

confirm these results. The analysis shows

considered non-degradable.

cellulose particles have a cleansing

cleansing effects, its high abrasion must

Abrasion results are shown in Figure 3. All

While the results for silica show good

effect in cosmetics products that is

be considered. This effect is of particular

tested cellulose particles show significantly

comparable to that of polyethylene and

concern because skin can be damaged

lower abrasion properties in comparison

silica. Significantly lower cleaning efficacy

when cleansed with exfoliators that have

to silica (p<0.001). The abrasion behaviour

was found for the commercial benchmark

rough surfaces and harsh edges. This is

of cellulose particles is comparable

product one and water.

why crushed plant stones and nut shells

to polyethylene and to a commercial

have faced recent criticism. Such highly

benchmark (product one), which also

Discussion and summary

contains polyethylene (p>0.001). The

The results indicate that biodegradable

micro-cracks in the corneal layer of the

highest abrasion effect was established for

cellulose is an optimal ingredient for

skin, resulting in bacterial infections and

the commercial benchmark (product two),

dermal cleansing. Cellulose shows

a compromised barrier function.

containing silica.

a very low abrasion on the skin and

abrasive exfoliators generally lead to

The analysis indicates cellulose scrubs offer the optimal characteristics

Table 1: Composition of the peeling formulation used for the analysis of abrasion and cleaning efficacy

Phase

A

B

Ingredient

INCI

water, demineralised

Aqua

64.3

Keltrol CG-SFT

Xanthan Gum

1.10

Glycerine > 98%

Glycerine

Plantacare 2000 UP

Decyl Glucoside

13.00

Plantacare 818 UP

Coco Glucoside

3.00

Tego Betain F 50

Cocoamidopropyl Betaine

7.00

Glucam E-10 Humectant

Methyl Gluceth-10

3.00

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Benzoate

1.50

Orchidee R07188

Parfum

Citric Acid 50 % Solution

Citric Acid

TOTAL

30

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

4.00

3.00

cleansing particle C

Quantity %

0.10 q.s. 100.00

to cleanse and exfoliate skin. CFF’s gentle, non-irritating scrubs have a high cleaning efficacy. They can be sourced in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals. Using natural cellulose in the cosmetics industry could prevent microplastics from aggregating and consequently reduce environmental pollution. It also shows promise for use in other industry categories, such as colour cosmetics to enhance the mattifying effect or colour intensity of a product. •

CFF – www.cff.de/en IMWS – www.imws.fraunhofer.de/en.html Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za


INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

New nature-based ingredients At this year’s SEPAWA Congress from 10 to 12 October, Evonik presented nature-based products. The range is aimed at customers in the cosmetics and detergent industries.

N

aturalness and sustainability are major trends in the cosmetics industry. ‘Customers are demanding nature-based ingredients and products that contain fewer ingredients overall,

even in detergents and cleaning agents,’ says Dr Xiaolan Wang, who heads Evonik’s household care business line. For cosmetics raw materials, the global company continues to align its own R&D work with these trends. Hairflux and Tego enlight are among its latest naturebased innovations. Hairflux is an olive-based ceramide composition that improves the strength of damaged hair and soothes

Rheance One is based exclusively on sugar and produced by fermentation. The glycolipid is suitable for hair and skin cleansing products

fresh fragrance. An additional benefit is the microemulsion can be combined with all existing softener ingredients. ‘The formulation of detergents and cleaning agents offers many

an irritated scalp. The product is suitable for use in hair

possibilities to meet customers’ demands for more naturalness in

lotions, personal care products for the scalp, and rinses

household products,’ comments Dr Wang. ‘Rewo Scent G 100 is a good

and shampoos.

example of how the same, or even an improved performance can be

Tego enlight has been developed for natural skin brightening. It is based on phytic acid salt obtained from rice bran and an extract of the fruit of white mulberry. Both

achieved with fewer active ingredients.’ •

Evonik – www.evonik.com

these ingredients possess complementary antioxidant and whitening properties.

Certified natural For cosmetics formulations requiring Cosmos certification, Evonik offers two high performance emulsifiers: Isolan 17 and dermofeel NC. Isolan 17 is a plant-based emulsifier for natural W/O systems. It allows for the production of even the most demanding formulations such as quick-breaking emulsions, aerosols and sprays. This emulsifier imparts a pleasant, non-oily skin feel and is suitable for achieving a wide range of sensory benefits. ‘This technology opens up a new dimension to our customers in the area of natural cosmetics,’ comments Dr Tammo Boinowitz, head of Evonik’s personal care business line. Dermofeel NC, an emulsifier for O/W systems, is also based entirely on renewable raw materials. It functions over a wide pH range from 3.5 to 8.5 and eliminates the need to use polyacrylate-based thickeners. Evonik also presented Skinolance and Rheance One at the congress. Skinolance is the company’s first microbiotic product for skin care while Rheance One is a glycolipid for mild yet effective cleansing.

Less is more For customers in the detergent and cleaning agent industry, Evonik has launched a new silicone derivative product, Rewo Scent G 100. Using smaller amounts of the active ingredient, it helps fabric softeners achieve even greater softness and imparts a longer lasting

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

31


INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

Spheres – a safe, gentle and greener way to exfoliate

It’s a common beauty tip that glowing skin is achieved through exfoliation. Yet it is less understood that the type of exfoliant, especially in facial care products, plays a key role in maintaining optimal skin health. Liesl Keulder, technical manager at Cirebelle, weighs up the options.

C

irebelle is a globally recognised

microbeads in personal care formulations.

manufacturer of natural and

These vary from spherical particles to fruit

Fischer Tropsch (FT) wax based

kernels. Yet there are concerns linked to

products, utilised in a broad

using fruit kernels to exfoliate the face and

The shells with their jagged edges can agitate the skin

whether they can cause micro tears in the

spherical and smooth shape of the raw

skin. This is highlighted in an on-going law-

materials. All three samples also showed

are sustainably sourced, readily bio-

suit in the USA regarding the use of a scrub

an increase in the hydration of users’ skin

degradable and an effective yet gentle

formulated with crushed walnut shells. The

after exfoliation. It is interesting to note

exfoliant. Rice bran wax is used as the raw

plaintiffs are claiming the shells with their

users preferred the scrubs containing FT

range of personal care applications. Our CireNat Rice Bran Exfoliating Spheres

Wax or Mannan spheres, due to sensory experience and after-feel on their skin.³ This study and the opinions speak to the benefits of using spheres as exfoliants to maintain the overall health of skin, especially when used in facial products. Cirebelle’s commitment to quality and innovation has driven us to initiate our own skin study and clinical trials for publishing. This R&D project is aimed at providing peace of mind to our customers in the personal care industry and to consumers, in that our CireWax and CireNat spheres are a premium choice for gentle and optimal skin exfoliation. •

Cirebelle – www.cirebelle.com material for these spheres, underlining

jagged edges can agitate the skin and

our belief in industrial ecology to use

cause it to tear.¹

REFERENCES:

the by-products of other industries to

The international Dermal Institute

produce environmentally friendly and

has recommended consumers avoid

value-adding solutions for the personal

using fruit kernels, shells or any similar

2. Howard, Diana Methods of Exfoliation International

care industry. These and our perfectly

compounds.² This could be due to the

Dermal Institute. Web.

spherical wax spheres are available

concerns linked to increased erythema (or

3. Kitsongsermthon J, Kreepoke J, Duangweang

in various colours. They all offer an

a decrease in skin barrier function) when

environmentally friendly alternative to polyethylene (PE) microbeads, which have been banned in many countries. Cirebelle’s wax spheres are inherently biodegradable while our natural CireNat Spheres are readily biodegradable. Unfortunately, PE microbeads

using these jagged edged exfoliants.

DID YOU KNOW?

are not and take years before any break-down occurs. There are a few environmentally friendly options on the market to replace PE

32

Improved skin-feel

Through the In a study published recently application of African in the Skin Research and chemistry, Cirebelle produces a range of Technology Journal, personal care exfoliants, waxes and activePE microbeads, FT Wax encapsulating spheres and Mannan SoftSpheres used by many of the world’s spheres were assessed in leading personal care brands. terms of stratum corneum

turnover time (SCTT), skin hydration and user satisfaction. The study found all spheres showed minimal difference in the SCTT. This was attributed to the

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

1. www.bbc.co.uk/newsbeat/article/38521213/st-ivesscrub-is-being-sued-for-5m

K, Tansirikongkol A. In vivo exfoliating efficacy of biodegradable beads and the correlation with user’s satisfaction. Skin Res Technol. 2018;24:26–30.

ABOUT Liesl Keulder has a PhD in polymer chemistry from the University of Stellenbosch. She started her career in the industrial sector as an analytical chemist and moved on to new product development. In 2015, Keulder joined a multinational company in the beauty and personal care industry and made the move to Cirebelle in 2017, where she is now technical manager.


INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

Aloe vera

Jojoba seeds and oil

Nutrient-rich milks to quench and nourish hair and skin

Avocado and coconut are known for their hair conditioning benefits

Desert Milk is the latest addition to the growing platform of milks from Vantage. This stable, low viscosity, o/w emulsion is prepared using a unique ultrasonic cavitation process in combination with a plant-based, biomimetic phospholipid.

T

he name ‘Desert Milk’ is inspired by the carefully selected oils and extracts used to create the emulsion. Each component

was chosen specifically for its intense hydrating properties to condition, soften and smooth the skin. Baobab fruit is high in antioxidants and vitamin C, while the oil contains omega fatty acids 3, 6 and 9. Kalahari Melon seed oil is also packed with phytosterols, essential fatty acids (especially omegas 6 and 9) and is known to dissolve excess

Vantage’s Milks are versatile, making them suitable for a wide range of formulations, including cold process

sebum on the skin. Commonly used for its healing and

Functions and benefits of Desert Milk: • conditioning agent • emollient • gloss agent • hair softening • moisturiser • skin replenishing • soothing.

When used at 100 percent, it can be The special phospholipid used in

marketed as a milky face serum. For

cleansing benefits, aloe vera contains

Desert Milk has also been shown to

brands looking to offering personalised

a variety of vitamins, minerals and

regulate specific genes and pathways

skin care solutions, the milk gives

nutritional substances that work together

responsible for cell regeneration,

consumers access to a hydration

to provide a calming and soothing effect.

keratinocyte differentiation and

boosting ingredient to mix into their

Desert Whale Jojoba Oil is rich in

proliferation, skin tissue hydration and

existing beauty products.

omega 9 fatty acids, fatty alcohols,

inflammation – to help re-balance

vitamin E and phytosterols. It offers

the skin.

intense hydration, conditioning and emollient properties.

34

Desert Milk is suitable even for sprayable and cold process formulas.

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

While it’s highly moisturising, Desert Milk maintains a consumer-desirable lightweight, non-greasy feel often demanded from skin care products.


INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION Milks with beauty benefits

Desert Whale Jojoba Milk is an

development of local communities while

Vantage’s Milks are versatile, making

innovative white, low viscosity liquid

preserving the Argan forest. The oil is

them suitable for a wide range of

with a lightweight elegant feel. It

cold pressed to maintain its potency and

formulations, including cold process.

is also produced using ultrasonic

high quality. •

Desert Milk features a series of

cavitation – a technology that

carefully selected oils and extracts.

combines high shear with an

Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk is made up

expertly selected plant-based

of a range of botanical ingredients, which provide proper oil and moisture balance proven to improve shine, control frizz and boost the overall appearance of hair. Gene expression studies conducted on the special phospholipid found in Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk

Vantage Specialty Chemicals – kim@lipo.co.za

phospholipid and Desert Whale

DID YOU KNOW?

Jojoba Oil. It has a thin,

milky consistency and Desert Milk has a conditioning benefits for significantly smaller skin and hair. particle size than a standard emulsion. Because these Active Performance micro-droplets have more Argan Milk is made with surface area, they allow for increased interaction environmentally friendly with the skin and better Argan oil, sustainably penetration of ingredients. and responsibly

show its ability to regulate the genes and pathways responsible for bringing hair and skin into balance.

Baobab fruit

sourced in Morocco. Argan oil is rich in omega fatty acids

The inclusion of this phospholipid also

6 and 9. It also

aids in the structuring and stabilisation

naturally contains

of the emulsion. The combination

vitamin E and

of these ingredients in the Coconut-

phytosterols. Argan oil

Avocado Hair Milk helps fortify and

production is a major

condition hair, resulting in enhanced

contributor to the Moroccan

gloss and softness.

economy. It also supports the

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

35


INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

Good chi for sensitive skin

Looking to China’s cultural past, derma cosmetics brands are combining ancient remedies with modern technology to develop new solutions for flawless skin. Derma-Clera, an active ingredient from Radiant, is based on a perennial shrub hailed in Traditional Chinese medicine for its skin soothing benefits.

T

hese days, skin is more

assist with continuous inflammatory

Clera to a shampoo formulation can

susceptible to damage from

response and to strengthen the

reduce irritation by about 36.4 percent.

multiple factors, including

skin barrier. According to Dongui

stress, lack of sleep and

Bogam, the encyclopaedia of Korean

study to assess the benefits of Derma-

environmental aggressors like

clinical medicine that is included

Clera formulated in a hair mask at two

the sun and pollution. Prolonged

in UNESCO’s ‘Memory of the World’

percent. A group of 10 Korean women

exposure to these damaging factors

programme, Cynanchum atratum

and men with sensitive scalp concerns

can compromise the skin’s barrier,

was traditionally used to treat red,

and seborrheic dermatitis were given

causing an inflammatory response

itchy and inflamed wounds. This

the Derma-Clera hair mask to use every

such as redness or sensitivity.

is as a result of its high sinapic

A baby’s skin, which is 20

acid content, which has

than adults, can be damaged to an even greater degree as it’s not yet fully developed. The scalp, also part of the skin, can be damaged

DID YOU KNOW?

Source: Industrial Toxicology Research

exposure, chemical and

The volunteers were instructed to apply

anti-oxidative, anti-

A deeper understanding of hair health, which starts at the follicle and is heavily impacted by the condition of the scalp, has paved the way for new findings on hair loss. In Asia, researchers have pinpointed overexposure to pollution as a primary aggressor of this phenomenon, saying ‘hair loss due to pollution can coexist or mimic androgenic alopecia’.

by extended UV

second day for a period of two weeks.

inflammatory, anticancer and hair loss prevention benefits. Radiant, a Korean specialist producer of anti-oxidants, has studied the efficacy

Derma-Clera is designed to protect the skin and scalp from external aggressors

of sinapic acid and Cynanchum atratum 5HGQHVV

extract to produce a

mechanical hair treatments

patented active ingredient

and shampoo and colouring

active ingredients from Radiant can

burning or itching sensation, hair

be sourced in South Africa from Afrisil.

loss or an allergic reaction. If left

Derma-Clera is designed to protect

untreated, the scalp will become

the skin and scalp from external

sensitive, leading to infection and the

aggressors and it has excellent

need for medical treatment. Yet with

calming and soothing effects.

6FDOS.HUDWLQRU'DQGUXII

6FDOSFRQGLWLRQ



called Derma-Clera. This and other

products, resulting in redness, a

,PSURYHPHQW

,PSURYHPHQW  

to 30 percent thinner

The company also ran a clinical

derma cosmetics, scalp sensitivity linked to seborrheic dermatitis or

Calm troubled skin

scalp psoriasis can be managed

Radiant’s R&D centre conducted an

at home.

experiment using Derma-Clera in a shampoo formulation to determine

Stronger and less sensitive

whether the active could help

There is renewed interest in

reduce the level of irritation caused

Cynanchum atratum extract in derma

by generic shampoos. The results

cosmetics for its proven ability to

showed adding two percent Derma-

36

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

'D\

'D\

'D\ 8VLQJKDLUPDVNZLWK'(50$&/(5$ )LJXUH6FDOSVRRWKLQJHIIHFWE\KDLUPDVN

7KLVJUDSHVKRZVVFDOSVRRWKLQJHIIHFWRIKDLUPDVNZLWK'(50$&/(5$7KLVWHVWFRQ

Figure 1: The scalp soothing benefits of Derma-Clera are evidenced by a 46 percent improvement in various sensitive scalp conditions


INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION Figure 2: Before and after images show a visible difference in the condition of the scalp subsequent to using the DermaClera hair mask

the overall condition of the scalp. Other tests

OSFRQGLWLRQ

on the active ingredient provided conclusive results, substantiating its positive effect on skin barrier enhancement, in caring for sensitive skin and to address skin troubles including %HIRUH

atopic dermatitis or psoriasis, in both skin and

$IWHU

scalp care applications. •

V.RUHDQ:RPHQ!

Afrisil – karin@afrisil.com Radiant – www.en.eradiant.co.kr

%HIRUH

$IWHU V.RUHDQ0HQ!

$&/(5$7KLVWHVWFRQGXFWHGE\SHRSOHVZLWKVHQVLWLYHVFDOS VHERUUKHLFGHUPDWLWLV

the mask to the scalp area and to leave it on for five to 10 minutes.

Ref. RADIANT R&D Center

After the two weeks, various parameters were assessed, including redness, scalp keratin, dandruff and scalp condition – all showed an improvement of about 46 percent (see Figures 1 and 2). Based on these positive results, Derma-Clera is effective in relieving irritation and in improving

AFRISIL E-mail: godh@eradiant.net Tel: +82-33-244-1243 www.en.eradiant.co.kr

‘Based on our innovative technology & global network , we have developed functional ingredients for the Personal Care Industry. Radiant currently supplies innovative natural ingredients to the cosmetics industry and strives to offer the best technical support to our customers.’

Afrisil was established in 2008 as an independent supplier of silicone products in the African market. We have however evolved and now offer a range of speciality raw materials into a variety of industries with particular strong associations with the Personal Care Industry. With the support of our principles we strive to offer our customers an excellent service and sound technical support.

‘DERMA CLERA’ - an active which enhances the skin’s barrier and targets sensitive skin including skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis,psoriasis and scalp conditions.

Tel: 011 465 2892 Cell: 073 124 0935 Email: Karin@afrisil.com

WE’RE LIVE! Please visit our brand new website www.afrisil.com

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

37


INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

New texturised agent promises ‘a good hair day’ Gattefossé has launched its first hair care ingredient, Definicire, in response to the demand for a natural solution that hydrates and protects hair. In 2021, the global hair care market is expected to reach US$89 billion, growing by close on 24 percent from its value in 2016.

T

he provider of specialty

with an ISIPCA apprentice on

the hair’s protective lipid layer. It

ingredients and formulation

the investigations, which found

is 100 percent natural, based on

solutions, represented in South

Gattefossé’s Emulium Mellifera

Africa by Carst & Walker, revealed

MB and Acticire MB

Definicire to the global industry on 19

formulations were being

September at in-cosmetics Latin America.

used to rehydrate hair

Definicire is the result of studies initiated

instead of in skin care

a few years ago to find ‘the perfect

applications, as

hair care ingredient’ for consumers in

originally intended.

the Brazilian, Middle Eastern and South African regions. Gattefossé worked

So Gattefossé’s researchers applied their knowledge

DEFINICIRE’S BENEFITS AND USES: • increases hair hydrophobicity

in lipochemistry to

functionalised jojoba and

develop an ingredient

Source: Industrial Toxicology Research

that naturally protects and rehydrates hair by mimicking

• pre-style treatments • anti-frizz day creams • protective hair sprays and lotions • beard lotions, styling gums and waxes.

38

and ensures disciplined hair in all climates, it controls static electricity and provides an

enhanced smooth feel. Its performance has been and confirmed by a hair dresser.

Definicire recreates hair’s natural protective layer and ensures disciplined hair in all climates

• rinse-off conditioners and masks

protective layer

without the greasiness. texturising agent that recreates

• protects from pollution

hair’s natural

protective properties of hair sebum

high humidity

• enhances hair’s smoothness

Definicire recreates

evaluated on different hair types

• curl definition even under

• facilitates ease of combing

and abundance.

the beneficial conditioning and

Enter Definicire – an active

static electricity

known for their stability

A deeper understanding of hair health, which starts at the follicle and is heavily impacted by the condition of the scalp, has paved the way for new findings on hair loss. In Asia, researchers have pinpointed overexposure to pollution as a primary aggressor of this phenomenon, saying ‘hair loss due to pollution can coexist or mimic androgenic alopecia’.

• frizz and volume control

• inhibits the effect of

sunflower seed waxes, both

DID YOU KNOW?

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Natural yet driven by science Frequent use of shampoo and mechanical, thermal and chemical stresses remove the protective lipid layer of the cuticle making hair difficult to comb, rough to touch, dull and prone to frizz and tangling. To condition hair, silicones and quaternary


INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

compounds are the main ingredients used. They are both efficient in different ways, but have limitations regarding biodegradability, build-up effect and image. In addition, they are not natural and are unlike the complex hair lipid layer. To provide the industry with an effective alternative, Gattefossé used its expertise in lipid chemistry to recreate the performance of sebum and 18-MEA – which are known to naturally provide the best protection for hair. Tests demonstrate that hair regains hydrophobicity and is protected from humidity and frizz. The hair becomes easier to manage and is smooth to the touch

• a sophisticated routine, with hair care offerings shifting from a simple to extended regimen • similar claims such as anti-pollution, UV and visible light protection, deep moisturisation, multifunctionality, anti-ageing and scalp care • increased focus on fun and innovative textures and reinvented formats that target user experience • inclusive offerings providing all consumer groups with suitable solutions for their hair care needs • cutting-edge technologies where consumers will monitor their hair in real time, in the near future • natural products and ingredients in line with eco-friendly and sustainability awareness trends.

so style is maintained for longer.

Embracing the natural texture of their hair, consumers are relaxing

At in-cosmetics Latin America, Gattefossé demonstrated

and straightening their hair less. Consequently, the textured hair

the benefits of Definicire with its Untangled Hair Care kit. The

category has become the fastest growing and most dynamic one in

kit contains 10 formulations, mostly leave-on, to represent a

the beauty industry. For example, in the US an annual growth rate of

modern sophisticated hair care regimen. Product options

nine percent is evident in products for Ethnic hair care which amounts

include a day cream, night mask, an anti-frizz product, a

to US$31.6 million spent on products for textured hair. •

wax and even a beard lotion.

Hair is the new skin care According to Gattefossé, there are two trends shaping

Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Gattefossé – www.gattefosse.com

the global hair care market. The first is a strong parallel with skin care trends while the move to embracing hair’s natural texture is the second. Novelties in hair care are strongly linked with innovations in skin care. The routine, claims, textures and targets are evolving, making products such as day and night treatments, grey-enhancing hair dyes and sprays for temporary rainbow coloured hair very popular. The main parallels from skin care, inspiring developments in hair care, include:

Highly efficient and versatile rheology modifier for skin, sun Highly efficient and and color cosmetic oil versatile systems rheology modifiertextures for skin, sun with enchanting and color cosmetic oil systems with enchanting textures

Bring an aura of magic to your skin, sun and color cosmetics systems. Oilkemia™ 5S polymer is a multi-functional oil soluble rheology modifier that enhances the alchemy between cosmetic ingredients and active oil components enabling an array of alluring textures. It provides excellent thickening efficiency, clarity, suspension, and stability, together with a Bring an aura of magic to your skin, sun and color cosmetics systems. Oilkemia™ 5S polymer is a multi-functional oil pleasant non-tacky feel in a variety of anhydrous or emulsion systems. From clear oil gels to smooth pigmented sticks, soluble rheology modifier that enhances the alchemy between cosmetic ingredients and active oil components enabling Oilkemia™ 5S polymer lets you create products that indulge the senses and the imagination. an array of alluring textures. It provides excellent thickening efficiency, clarity, suspension, and stability, together with a pleasant non-tacky feel in a variety of anhydrous or emulsion systems. From clear oil gels to smooth pigmented sticks, Oilkemia™ 5S polymer lets you create products that indulge the senses and the imagination.

Carst & Walker is the proud supplier for Lubrizol in South Africa For more information contact Tiffany de Astui at Tiffany.deastui@carst.co.za 011-489-3639 or 082-892-9731

800.379.5389 | www.lubrizol.com/personal-care

800.379.5389 | www.lubrizol.com/personal-care

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

39


INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

Skin care solutions inspired by the Mediterranean

The skin works hard to protect the body. In order to respond to its needs, we need to use products specially formulated with effective ingredients that rebuild and safeguard the skin. This will not only protect the epidermis but also maintain its protective barrier.

O

ur skin interfaces with the

Skin Save

such as sensitive skin care, baby care

environment and guards the

This active is a synergistic combination

products, after sun lotions, aftershave

body from environmental

of opuntia extract (Opuntia ficus-indica

balms and anti-inflammatory and

influences, pathogens and

stem extract), olive leaves (Olea europaea

cosmeceutical applications.

excessive water loss. Acting as an insulator, it

leaf extract) and caper buds (Capparis

regulates our temperature and is responsible

spinosa fruit extract). The fusion of opuntia

Opuntia Biocomplex SH

for the sensations we feel.

extract in Skin Save moisturises and repairs

Obtained from the juice of the leaves or

the skin while the olive leaves provide

cladodes of Opuntus ficus, this powdered

External forces can impact on skin’s condition and weaken its natural defense mechanisms. UV radiation penetrates and damages the skin. Harsh cleaning products, exposure to fluorescent light and pollution can also be harmful, disrupting skin’s functional benefits. If not properly protected, the skin’s barrier function can become compromised, which leads to dryness and increased sensitivity.

Synergistic blends and active substances

Exposure to fluorescent light and pollution can be harmful, disrupting skin’s functional benefits

extract contains a natural blend of mucilages and other polysaccharides. The valuable nutrient profile of Opuntia Biocomplex SH is as a direct result of the water which is stored in the cladodes, beneath their prickly surface. This natural gel has a long history of traditional use among farmers in southern Italy. They would apply the cladodes onto their skin to moisturise it and protect skin wounds. Opuntia Biocomplex SH produces a physical barrier on the skin, protects

Bionap harnesses the nutrients found in

soothing benefits and the caper buds

it, deeply moisturises it and promotes

Mediterranean foods and plants to create

desensitise the skin, working together to

cutaneous reparative processes. It can

ingredients for personal care and wellness

reduce inflammation and counteract

be used to formulate moisturising and

products. This Italian company is a world

redness and itching as a result of damage

skin repair products, especially for babies’

leader in the extraction and processing

to the skin. This unique blend of active

sensitive skin (see Table 1) and is ideal for

of active substances. Protea Chemicals is

ingredients creates a protective barrier,

anti-ageing serums. •

proud to represent Bionap in South Africa,

making Skin Save ideal for products

bringing its unique portfolio of active

formulated specifically for sensitive skins.

ingredients to the local market.

It can be used in various applications,

Bionap – www.bionap.com Protea Chemicals – www.proteachemicals.co.za

Table 1: Baby Cream

Phase

INCI Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter Hydrogenated Castor Oil Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate Decyl Cocoate

A

Pistachio Oil

Isohexadecane

Dermoil HDE

Stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate Aqua/Water Glycerin Magnesium sulphate eptahydrate C D

40

-

Pistacia vera (pistachio) seed oil

Beeswax

B

Trade name

-

Opuntia ficus indica stem extract, Maltodextrin

Opuntia Biocomplex SH

Aqua

Water

Parfum & preservatives

Fragrance and preservatives

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

% 1 0.5 3 3 2 8 0.2 3 0.1 62.7 4 1 3 7 1.5

The leaves (cladodes) of Opuntus ficus house a nutrient-rich gel, synthesised by Bionap to produce Opuntia Biocomplex SH


PackagingREVIEW SOUTH AFRICAN

November/December 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 11

www.pharmacos.co.za

Get your brand in more hands with

product-enhancing vacuum formed or custom thermoformed blister packaging

Printology 2018 whistle stop tour highlights

Dow appoints duo to turn trash into treasure


NEWS

Pre-formed for better protection THERE HAVE BEEN a number of improvements in cold forming for blister packaging. Machinery innovations allow steeper depth and angles during forming, minimising the amount of material used for each cavity. The results are eco-friendlier, cost-effective production methods and packaging. Strip packs are also pushing boundaries in terms of providing excellent barrier properties while using less packaging material in production. You can read about these and other blister packaging developments on page 46. I recently attended the Printology Roadshow, hosted by Kemtek in partnership with Komori, Fujifilm, Baldwin and Siegwerk. Rounding up the highlights, on page 44 I’ve shared expert information on efficient prepress and quick ink drying technologies presented at the event. For more packaging updates like our Facebook page.

ON THE GO RESPIRATORY DEVICE WITH THE RELEASE of PureHale, Aptar Pharma continues its commitment to meeting new market trends. The new portable, ready to use drug delivery system is designed for upper respiratory care. When used in combination with saline

@packagingreview

or other natural ingredient formulations, the device helps relieve the symptoms

Until next month!

of upper respiratory system conditions. PureHale was officially launched at CPhI

Assistant Editor

Worldwide, which took place in Madrid,

Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za

Spain, from 9 to 11 October. The product was also a finalist in the CPhI Pharma

STERIDROP TUBE FOR PRESERVATIVE FREE EYE DROPS

Awards in the category Excellence in

NEOPAC HAS INTRODUCED a new

innovative technology distributes a

With chronic use, preservatives

Pharma: Drug Delivery Devices. The need for upper respiratory relief is more prominent than ever owing to the rise in pollution levels. PureHale’s

packaging solution for the eye

in eye care formulations, such

continuous fine mist that gently cleanses,

care category. The SteriDrop tube

as benzalkonium chloride, are

moisturises and soothes the upper

provides exemplary protection

believed to lead to side effects,

respiratory tract. This assists in reducing

and delivery of preservative-free

prompting a push for ‘preservative-

irritations caused by coughs, colds,

eye drops. Filled and sealed on

free’ in the eye care category.

allergies, respiratory problems and dry

sterile tube filling lines, it uses

Microbiologically tested and

nose and throat issues.

patented Polyfoil technology, which

FDA approved, the SteriDrop tube

the company previously used for

amounts to a pharma grade

consumers to relieve their symptoms

packaging eye creams and gels.

solution, which addresses the

where and whenever needed. Unlike

resulting challenge of eye care

traditional nebulisers, PureHale does

squeeze dispenser, the concept

product protection and durability.

not require batteries or the need to

proves highly conducive to protecting

The system comes with a selection

prefill a reservoir. Developed after

preservative-free eye drops from

of caps and flow rates that can

researching and analysing the benefits

microbiological contamination.

be customised according to drop

and challenges of traditional nebuliser

formulations. It also eliminates the

technology, this user friendly system

up to 30mℓ. This easily covers three

need for silver ions, surface coatings

has been engineered for on the

months’ supply of daily eye treatment.

and secures a metal free product

go consumers.

Combined with an ophthalmic

SteriDrop can contain volumes

When squeezed, the tube’s mechanical system releases a

pathway for dispensing. The slim, user friendly

precisely measured drop. It also

tube fits comfortably

prevents the liquid from flowing

in a user’s hand. This

back into the tube. This guarantees

multi-dose system also

a level of microbiological safety

saves on packaging

previously unattainable. As a result,

and resources when

the product remains sterile over the

compared to single

entire period of application without

dose packs.

the use of preservatives.

Neopac has

The tube’s exemplary barrier

a team of

properties protect the product from

international

light, air, water vapour diffusion

agents that supply

and migration. This lends to critical

tubes directly to

content efficacy and overall

manufacturers in

product durability.

South Africa.

42

The device’s portability allows

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | Packaging Review

Aptar Pharma’s PureHale device


NEWS

TECHNOLOGY THAT PROMISES STRONGER PLASTICS MILLIKEN HAS EXTENDED its portfolio of

post consumer recycled resins. The new

Africa, to help solve the

additive technologies to improve the

performance modifier allows converters

challenges facing

clarity, performance and processing

to take greater advantage of cost and

polymer producers,

of polyolefins. The company launched

sustainability benefits.

converters, designers and

two new products this year. The first

The Hyperform HPN was specifically

is a unique performance modifier for

designed to maximise stiffness in PP

injection moulded polypropylene (PP)

and ICPs.

and impact copolymers (ICPs) while

brand owners. ‘Both innovations deliver breakthrough aesthetics,

‘This technology enables recycled

exceptional material

the second is a newer technology

resin to deliver performance

properties, improved

within its Hyperform HPN family of

comparable to that of virgin materials,’

efficiency and enhanced

nucleating agents.

says Prem Patel, strategy and business

sustainability. Milliken will

development manager for plastics

continue to apply market

additives at Milliken.

insights and technological

These technologies are believed to considerably change the way PP and ICPs perform with regard to impact

Allen Jacoby, the company’s VP

expertise to customers’

strength, stiffness and melt flow. They

for plastics additives says Milliken’s

evolving requirements,’

also improve the physical properties of

innovations are available in South

Jacoby adds.

CONGRATULATIONS REITECH, ON YOUR MILESTONE! THE CUSTOMER FOCUSED supplier of

Reiss took ownership of the company in

meets customers’

machines primarily for the FMCG and

1995 and renamed it Reiss Technology,

expectations.

pharmaceutical markets, celebrates its

commonly known as Reitech SA. A year

55th anniversary this year.

later the company integrated into the

age symbolises

South African Picardi Group.

consistency

The company has evolved as a strong market competitor. In 1963, Hauni South

Today, this exclusive agency business

‘We believe

and longevity.

Manufacturing was established by Dr Kurt

represents European engineering

With all this

Koerber as the second overseas subsidiary

companies and their manufacturing

experience in

of Hauni Werke, a German equipment

equipment for the cosmetics, healthcare

supplying and

manufacturer. He appointed an engineer,

and pharmaceutical industries, to name

servicing world class

Franz Reiss, to oversee the company.

a few.

packaging machines,

Over the next 32 years, Hauni South

‘The technical services we offer

we’re able to increase overall equipment

Manufacturing expanded its facilities while

are equally as important as selling

effectiveness, higher output rates and

undertaking major developments and

machinery,’ explains Olaf Socher,

better product quality. This results in

production modifications for customers in

Reitech SA’s sales manager. This ensures

a faster return on investment for our

the tobacco industry.

the performance of the equipment sold

customers,’ he concludes.

11900 - PROPAK AFRICA 2019 VISPROM ADVERT NEW MEDIA 177X65_V2.indd 1

2018/08/22 09:22

Packaging Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

43


EVENTS

The power of the lamp light revealed The Printology South Africa Roadshow 2018, hosted by Kemtek, in partnership with Komori, Fujifilm, Baldwin and Siegwerk, kicked off on 23 October at the Johannesburg Country Club. Dubbed ‘a whistle-stop tour of SA’s major print centres’, regional Printology events took place on 24 and 25 October, in Durban and Cape Town respectively.

T

he aim of the tour was to equip

The result is a number of valuable

H-UV inks provide dramatic colour on

the printing and packaging

benefits. It allows printed sheets to

uncoated or matte stocks. With this new

industry with information

dry immediately with an unrivalled

technology, jobs are completed in shorter

premium inline gloss finish.

time frames compared to conventional

on some of the latest and most innovative print tools. Based on

The system’s UV lamp has been

the theme, ‘Innovate to Create’,

developed specifically for high-

each afternoon seminar during the

sensitivity UV ink. There is one lamp

roadshow included several short but

mounted inside the printer that

punchy presentations centred on

enables high print quality, reliability

how to boost productivity and

and excellent economic and

profitability. Led by industry experts, the presentations underlined the power of efficient prepress and quick drying technologies. These are intended to make print

DID YOU KNOW?

eco-friendly performance.

COMPARATIVE OUTCOMES

A single H-UV lamp with one bulb can cure up to 400 percent ink coverage.

Johnstone discussed the benefits of H-UV versus

production efficient, seamless

conventional technology.

and environmentally friendly.

‘There is a higher image

Q&A sessions followed the

contrast, no set-off, brighter colours

presentations, thereafter guests

are produced, mechanical resistance

could spend time networking with

is higher, ink coverage of up to 350

experts and peers from the printing

percent and printing speeds are faster

and packaging industry.

while turnaround times are shorter.’ H-UV also offers an environmentally

INK AND ENERGY ALIGNED

friendly benefit because less energy

The presenters included Tony Carter,

is consumed. The process is powder-

director of distributor sales for Komori

free, supporting an industry need for

International Netherlands; Ulrich Sause

cleaner production. In addition, the

from AMS Spectral UV – a Baldwin

substrate’s surface is smoother while

Technology Company – Jonathan

pollution of the blankets on the press

Johnstone, MD of Siegwerk SA and

is prevented.

Takeo Hata, MD general manager of Graphic Systems’ Division for Fujifilm SA.

With H-UV LED there is no need for the extraction of ozone using the ink,

A common theme in all their

because, as Johnstone explained, the

discussions was H-UV technology.

application is free of mercury. The result

Deemed innovative, the technology

is LED lamps with a higher lifespan.

is specified for drying or curing

Siegwerk has developed a range

inks and coatings on sheetfed

of inks specifically to meet Komori’s

presses. It is described as a unique

requirements. H-UV ink performs

alignment between ink and energy

similarly to conventional UV ink with

to optimise performance. In other

minimal dot gains, similar gloss and

words, the energy output of a H-UV

true dot shapes. There is no ‘dry-back’

lamp is precisely aligned with the

like with oil based inks. This means the

required curing range for H-UV ink.

colour does not fade over time.

44

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | Packaging Review

inks, which require more time. •

INK DRYING METHODS TO CURE INKS, printing presses are equipped with IR or UV dryers. H-UV technology is another method , which cures a substantial percentage of ink coverage using a H-UV lamp. The result is a dramatic reduction in the amount of energy required for curing compared to either IR or UV. The benefit of the single lamp is a low heat output. As an example, a printed sheet immediately off the press is about 10 degrees warmer than ambient air temperatures. Because less heat is given off by the press, electrical and energy costs are lowered giving the printer substantial savings. H-UV also eliminates stock deformation from excessive heat, which results in better colour fits and easier second passes through the press. The lamp is usually located at the end of press or, when a dry trap application is required, in the inter-deck. It doesn’t emit ozone, which usually occurs with UV lamps, extending the life of the equipment without the need for roof venting.

AMS Spectral UV – www.airmotionsystems.com Fujifilm SA – www.fujifilm.eu Kemtek – www.kemtek.co.za Komori International Netherlands – www.komori.eu Siegwerk – www.siegwerk.com


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BLISTER PACKAGING & ENCAPSULATION

Better protection for oral solid dosage meds In many parts of the world, blisters are the main type of pharma packaging. In certain countries they are referred to as push through packs. They provide tamper resistance and barrier protection for products with shelf life requirements.

occurs when cards are placed and blister packs sealed. A laser printer is used to print information on the reverse sides of the cards. These include QR and barcodes or best before dates. Packs housing different contents

DID YOU KNOW?

Romaco’s push through strips that use thinner foil

C

reated by means of a form, fill and

The company, headquartered

seal process, blister pack cavities

in Germany, offers automatic

are referred to as blister cards,

blister packaging lines. The

The main aspect of blister packaging is the cavity. Made by formidable webs, it prevents pills and tablets from any damage.

are individually marked and traced. Exclusively developed for the production of nonfood packaging, Illig’s BSA 37 blister machine features conventional production reliability. This system is also flexible owing to its ability to construct

packs or strips. There are slight differences

machine’s components include

different premium packaging

between strips and packs. The difference

a heat sealing mechanism,

solutions with the shortest

is strip packs do not have thermo or cold

thermoforming and sealing units.

conversion times.

formed cavities. Strip packs are formed

Card loaders and feeding devices

The quick change devices on

around one tablet at a time when dropped

can be relocated or retrofitted on

both these systems support short

to the sealing area between moulds.

each part of the system. Attaching

changeovers for moulds and format

Global supplier of high performance

labelling devices or coding units

parts. They also meet modern

thermoforming and packaging machines,

at the back of the sealing station

demands for blister packaging and

Illig Maschinenbau’s marketing

can be done easily. The complete

protect products whilst maintaining a

representative, George Sposny says the

production sequence of these packs

high recognition value. Hestico is

company’s blister packaging machine, the

can be traced, from material feeding

the South African supplier of

HSA 50d system accommodates flexible

to thermoforming and the cutting

machinery and equipment from

production needs.

and filling of blister caps. Tracing also

Illig Maschinenbau.

The HSA 50d system from Illig Maschinenbau

46

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | Packaging Review


BLISTER PACKAGING & ENCAPSULATION

A blister pack for razors

A portable machine

industry expo took place from 9 to 11

offer a good alternative for medicines

If you’re looking for locally developed

October in Madrid.

that require geriatric patients to tear

solutions, Rhino Pak, based in

Romaco and Huhtamaki premiered

open strip packaging or aluminium-

Johannesburg, manufactures packaging

their push through strip packaging

aluminium blisters. Huhtamaki has a

and filling equipment. Its automatic blister

for pharmaceuticals. Tablets packed

patent pending for the manufacturing

packaging machine for tablets and

inside the strip are easily removed by

process used for this special foil. These

capsules comprises a flat structure and

pressing them out of the pockets in the

strips can be supplied in a standard

positive pressure moulding and textured

four sided sealed foil pack. The pack

rectangular format or design strips.

sealing components. The technology can

combines the excellent barrier properties

be tailored to customers’ requirements.

of strip packaging with the blister

machine equipped with a special die

Keaghan Szeles, owner of Rhino Pak,

A Siebler HM 1-350 heat sealing

format opening mechanism. In direct

cutter is used to manufacture special

says the machine is compact, has an

comparison to cold formed aluminium

formats. The continuous cutting station

adjustable drive version and is easy to

blisters, the push through strip uses less

supports round strip formats and heart,

operate. Capsules and tablets are packed

packaging material while the thinner foil

petal or even star shaped ones.

The push through strip uses less packaging material while the thinner foil enables cost savings

output of 800 design strips per minute.

in aluminium foil into blister packs. The blister formed is heat sealed and printed on it is a lot number. The system’s positive pressure former, matched with its mechanical punch, ensures a suitable blister is formed. The machine has a collate and special automatic feeder to pack different formats such as ampoules, vials and syringes. Its forming, heat sealing and

The system achieves a maximum

impressing moulds support precise product

According to Romaco, the production of push through strips in a heat sealing process expands its portfolio in the area of air, light and moisture tight unit dose packaging. More than 12 000 installations delivered by Romaco are currently in use in more than 180 countries.

orientation and easy changeovers with the

enables cost savings. These strips are

added benfit of saving on materials. This

manufactured either from a multilayer

headquarters in Karlsruhe, Germany

detachable design allows the machine to

laminated PET, PE, Al, Surlyn foil, or a

and is part of the Truking Group, a

be mobile and can be installed according

transparent barrier foil. The material does

globally operating high tech enterprise

to a user’s requirements.

not tear and is therefore regarded as

based in Changsha,China.•

The Romaco Group has

child-proof.

Less is more

Owing to the targeted perforation of

Romaco Siebler (Romaco) took part in

the upper polyester layer, simply pressing

CPhI Worldwide in collaboration with

the tablet out of the laminated foil with

industry partners Huhtamaki, Biogrund,

one’s thumb can open the pack.

Hennig and Skyepharma. The pharma

The strips are senior friendly and, as such,

Hestico – www.hestico.co.za Huhtamaki – www.huhtamaki.com Rhino Pak – www.designtek.co.za Romaco Siebler – www.romaco.com

Packaging Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

47


INDUSTRY TALK

Plastic waste is definitely not fantastic!

To address the global challenge of packaging waste, Dow has appointed two new commercial directors. Tim Boven and Carsten Larsen will also be tasked with building on the company’s existing collaborations and developing new business models.

D

ow Packaging Specialty

The company has committed to

‘Creating these

Plastics (Dow) created these

investing in the ‘right leaders

new roles within the

senior leadership roles to

and recycling innovations’ to help

company is

address growth strategies to monetise

advance end of life solutions

just one step

plastics waste recycling streams

for plastics.

of many in our

around the world.

‘Having Boven and Larsen drive the

Boven and Larsen will work with

commitment to

company’s recycling strategies, it will

advance the

the company’s value chain partners

be able to help customers around

sustainability

and tackle relevant technologies

the world achieve their sustainability

value of plastics,’

and initiatives to increase the

objectives. It will also enable the

recyclability of plastics for the company. Boven was previously Dow’s global integrated supply chain director for hydrocarbons. He will focus on Latin and North America.

DID YOU KNOW?

He says one

value chain for plastics,’

company cannot

Donoso explains. The duo is in the

Every year, about 8 million metric tonnes of plastic end up in our oceans.

Larsen formerly worked at Dow Industrial Solutions’ as

current plastic waste

create and deliver solutions to stop

world. They are working recycling technology to contribute to the end goal.

and India. He will

Ca rsten La rsen

waste leakage and maintain the value of plastics throughout its life span.’ •

to identify innovations in

director for EMEA overlook the same

KEY SOLUTIONS

regions with the

Boven and Larsen’s focus in North

exclusion of India

America and EMEA will primarily

and inclusion of

be on advancing the circular

Asia Pacific (APAC).

economy of plastic through new

The duo’s duties

‘We encourage our industry peers, partners and customers to help us

streams around the

Tim Boven

solve this issue.

process of evaluating

a commercial

involve working with

Donoso highlights.

shift toward a more circular

Dow Packaging Specialty Plastics – www.dow.com

WASTE DILEMMA

product offerings. This will be done via technologies

EXPERTS HAVE WARNED plastic is one of the

their respective

used to transform plastic waste

biggest threats facing our oceans. In 2015, a study

commercial

into valuable resources. In Latin

conducted by a scientific working group at UC Santa

leadership teams

America and APAC, the recycling

Barbara’s National Center for Ecological Analysis

to help design appropriate resource

infrastructure is less advanced and

and Synthesis (NCEAS), quantified the influx of

structures based in the regions they

plastic waste continues to increase.

plastic waste that migrates from land into marine

represent, to advance efforts.

These areas will require focussing

environments. The amounts were equivalent to

on new recycling, collection and

five grocery bags filled with plastic for every foot

A SHIFT IN FOCUS

infrastructure platforms for Dow and

of coastline worldwide and they are expected to

Diego Donoso, business president for

its local value chain partners that

increase with each passing year. By 2025, the

Dow, says mass amounts of plastic

keep plastics out of the environment.

annual cumulative input of plastics that end up

waste enter the natural environment.

Their work is expected to assist

in oceans is anticipated to reach about 20 times

the company in reaching its 2025

more than the 8 million tonne estimate. This is

the availability of sufficient waste

sustainability goal. This includes

the equivalent of 100 bags of plastic per foot of

infrastructure, low rates of recycling

advancing the circular economy

coastline worldwide.

and plastics carelessly discarded

by delivering solutions to close the

Source: www.nceas.ucsb.edu

after use.’

resource loops in key markets.

‘This is due to global variations in

48

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | Packaging Review


ASSOCIATION NEWS//

CONGRESS SUPPORT REMAINS A PRIORITY FOR COSCHEM In 2017, Coschem generated surplus funds. As a result, the society has been in the position to offer sponsorships to members who are interested in presenting papers at IFSCC Congresses. By Abby Vorster

R

oy Gardiner, treasurer of the

Since childhood, it’s been Sowman’s

It was a truly enlightening experience

Society of Cosmetic Chemists

dream to explore the field of cosmetic

for Sowman to present her poster and

(Coschem), explains:

science.

attend a few congress sessions. ‘I am

‘For South Africa this has many benefits.

‘Being given the opportunity to travel to

thankful for Coschem’s generosity

The most important and defined in our

Munich to attend the 30th IFSCC Congress

and for being given this valuable

constitution is to provide members

has greatly enhanced my knowledge and

opportunity,’ she comments. ‘I am

with an opportunity to learn on an

defined my ability to achieve my goals in

now much more aware of all the costs

international platform.’

cosmetic chemistry.’

involved and how to be more prepared

This not only expands members’

She believes cosmetic chemistry has

horizons but also contributes to improving

a positive impact on people’s lives. ‘It

Coschem’s ranking, which is crucial in the

provides me with an opportunity to

bidding process to host an IFSCC Congress.

express my creativity through science,

The society is bidding to host the 2025

which is made even more attractive by

congress in South Africa. Only societies

the prospect of becoming an inventor

ranked in the federation’s top 15 are

and entrepreneur.’

for the next venture.’ •

DON’T MISS OUT, ATTEND THE AGM!

permitted to host these congresses.

CLOSING GAPS IN SOUTH AFRICA

COSCHEM will hold its annual general meeting at

Coschem must meet certain criteria. Most

After attending the IFSCC congress,

17h00 on 7 February 2019 at the society’s premises

critical is our membership, because the

which took place from 18 to 21

in Randpark Ridge, Johannesburg. All members

society is ranked according to its total

September, Sowman realised just how

are encouraged to attend to find out more about

number of members. Second are our

far global developments in sunscreens

the financial status of the society, its various

scientific points. These are awarded to

have advanced.

committees, their contributions to Coschem’s

‘For South Africa to be eligible,

Coschem for papers presented by our

continued success and how you can also get

‘Japan already has products that

members at IFSCC Congresses, either as

work to tackle the entire broad-

involved. There are a few seats available for new

podium or poster presentations,’ he adds.

spectrum,’ she explains, saying she

council members to join the Coschem Council

plans to build on her master’s research

in 2019. If you are a voting member (i.e. a full

using the knowledge gained in Munich.

member), you can nominate yourself to be elected

A CHARMING SCIENCE When the call for papers was issued

onto the council. Nomination forms are available

‘By attending some of the

for the 30 IFSCC Congress in Munich,

presentations, I realised how many gaps

from Coschem, simply send an e-mail to bridget@

Serina Sowman submitted a paper on The

there are in South Africa. I’ve come up

coschem.co.za if you’re interested.

Potential of Plant Polyphenols as Notable

with lots of ideas which I hope to put

Photostable Sunscreen Actives.

to good use when I start working in the

th

Sowman is a second year student in

industry. Of particular interest, L’Oréal

the Coschem Diploma correspondence

Paris presented the results of a study

course and a masters student at the

on South African Ethic hair, the ways

University of KwaZulu-Natal. Her paper

it differs to American Ethic hair and

was accepted by the IFSCC as a poster

how the company plans to tackle the

presentation, but the university wasn’t able

market and release new products.’

2

to provide funding, which would prevent her from attending. When Coschem learned Sowman was considering withdrawing her paper, the executive committee agreed to sponsor her. Gardiner explains: ‘We are passionate about improving the standard of education within the

1

cosmetic field. The interest South African universities show in various topics related to our industry is also very rewarding for Coschem.’

1: Sowman’s poster presentation focused on the photostability of sunscreens with natural polyphenols 2: An IFSCC Congress delegate talks to Sowman about her research

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 |

49


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| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018 | P C Review

Quick Crossword Clues Down 1. Pungent nitrogen and hydrogen compound 2. Egyptian tomb 3. Tooth 4. Perfidy Across 1. Assign a duty 5. Amazing or wonderful occurrence 6. Bane 7. Firedog

Radiant....................................................37.........www.en.eradiant.co.kr Remancos............................................... 18.........www.remancos.co.za Sappi.......................................................45.........www.sappi.com Savannah Fine Chemicals........................29.........www.savannah.co.za Sensetek..................................................22.........www.sensetek.co.za Specialised Exhibitions............................43.........www.propakafrica.co.za Symrise SA............................................ OFC.........www.symrise.com Symscent ................................................ 17.........sales@symscent.co.za Vantage Specialty Chemicals ..................35.........kim@lipo.co.za Zinplex Cosmeceutical............................20.........cosmeceutical@zinplex.co.za Zippy Labels............................................ 16.........www.zippylabels.co.za

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Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems,

Chemists’ website will find information

Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam

on membership, educational

Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters,

programmes (specific details

Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives

pertaining to the Cosmetic Science

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.

www.coschem.co.za

M&L LABORATORY M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com

Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical & cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

FORMPAK

BRB SILICONES

For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging

The largest independent producer in the world of core and

and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

specialty silicones, BRB offers a wide range of solutions with unique benefits in skin, body and hair care and colour cosmetics.

www.brb-international.com

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER

QUANTUM COLOURS SA

Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme offers support

Your No. 1 industry leader for the

to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social needs and well being.

most comprehensive ranges of both

At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across SA, cosmetics

synthetic and natural colours – used

are used as tools to address visible side effects of treatment to assist patients

in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and

to restore self-esteem and face the world

industrial applications.

with confidence.

www.lgfb.co.za

Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.co.za


New solutions for

TODAY‘S PRESERVATION CHALLENGES THIS IS CLARIANT: SPECIALITY CHEMICALS CREATING VALUE

Real beauty is on the inside. That is our reason to develop gentle ingredients for the skin to take care of your formulation. Our prime innovative preservative systems from the Nipaguard® range - COSMOS approved - pioneered by the inspiration of long lasting stability and sustainability market needs offers a cost-effective solution with superior performance.

> We prefer to reduce preservatives. Not their effect. <

CLARIANT.COM/PERSONALCARE

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review November/December 2018  

The sensational realm of fine fragrance and perfumery ingredients is explored in this edition. Our pharma focus is centred the specialist eq...

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review November/December 2018  

The sensational realm of fine fragrance and perfumery ingredients is explored in this edition. Our pharma focus is centred the specialist eq...