Smarter structures, better formulas,
Architecture is the new ingredient
Designing a formula has always been as much art as it is science – but the tools available to today’s cosmetic chemists are more sophisticated, purposeful, and more exciting than ever.
This edition of FORMULATION DESIGN arrives at a pivotal moment. Consumer expectations are no longer shaped by a single trend; they are shaped by a convergence of demands. These include sustainability without compromise, proven efficacy, delightful sensory experiences and a need for products that work with the skin rather than against it. What strikes me most about the innovations featured in these pages is how the conversation has shifted from what goes into a formula to how it is architecturally designed. Intelligent delivery systems, biomimetic structures, cold-processable technologies and biofermentation platforms are redefining what is possible, enabling formulators to solve long-standing stability challenges, reduce environmental footprints and unlock true multifunctional performance.
Personalisation and longevity are also reshaping the brief – from modular fragrance systems built for layering to formulations designed around skin biology and long-term health outcomes.
This edition reveals more on the future of formulation from a structural, sustainable and science-led perspective. I hope FORMULATION DESIGN 2026 gives you the inspiration – and the practical tools – to bring new ideas to life in your laboratory.
Enjoy the read!
BASF launches two new collagen actives
BASF Care Creations has introduced two new cosmetic actives, NeoHelix™ Regenerate and SkinNexus™ Collag3n, marking a significant advance in collagen science for skincare formulation. NeoHelix™ Regenerate is a precision biomedical-inspired peptide developed in partnership with 3Helix, drawing on collagen-hybridising peptide (CHP) technology. The active is designed to target damaged collagen areas, supporting skin’s natural self-repair mechanisms and adaptive collagen renewal. In vivo data from a study of female subjects aged 60 to 70 showed a 41% reduction in damaged collagen and a 65% increase in endogenous hyaluronic acid levels after 56 days, outperforming a comparative peptide benchmark across all measured parameters.
SkinNexus™ Collag3n, developed with biotech partner Bota Biosciences, is a recombinant, bio-identical Collagen III fragment produced via vegan yeast fermentation. Designed for full-spectrum collagen homeostasis, it targets skin tonicity, sagging and fine lines. In a 3D dermis model, the active delivered increases of 48% in Collagen I, 82% in Collagen III and 71% in Collagen V. Clinical studies on women aged 53 to 70 showed measurable improvements after just four weeks, outperforming a market benchmark at 10 times higher concentration.
New coffee-derived scalp active developed using AI
Syensqo has launched Re2 Coffea Arabica Peptide, a bio-sourced cosmetic active developed in collaboration with Bota Biosciences. The peptide targets the growing ‘skinification’ of hair care trend and rising consumer demand for scalp health solutions.
The ingredient is upcycled from coffee grounds sourced at a plantation in Pu’er, Yunnan, China, making it a sustainably derived raw material. Development was driven by Bota Biosciences’ AI-powered Biofoundry platform, which screened natural coffee proteins to identify beneficial peptide sequences. These were then produced through enzymatic digestion and combined into the final formulation.
Re2 Coffea Arabica Peptide is positioned as a multifunctional scalp active, addressing several key concerns within a single ingredient. Claimed benefits include improved scalp hydration and softness, enhanced barrier function, reduced transepidermal water loss, reduced redness, and anti-inflammatory activity.
According to Syensqo, the ingredient sets a new benchmark for holistic scalp performance. The launch also underscores the commercial readiness of Bota Biosciences’ AI biomanufacturing platform, reinforcing the growing role of AI in the discovery and development of nextgeneration cosmetic actives.
“ Benefits include improved scalp hydration and softness, enhanced barrier function, reduced transepidermal water loss, reduced redness, and anti-inflammatory activity”
Lubrizol celebrates multiple awards
Several innovative ingredients by Lubrizol were recently recognised with prestigious awards. Among the highlights, Oilkemia™ 7S polymer earned Silver in the in-cosmetics Global Makeup Bar and Gold in the BSB Innovation Awards in the Functional Ingredient category. Oilkemia™ 7S polymer is a powerful and versatile biodegradable rheology modifier for oil based systems, delivering exceptional thickening efficiency, clarity, suspension and stability. Its pleasant, non-tacky sensory profile makes it suitable for a wide range of applications, including skincare, sun care, makeup, hair care and skin cleansing.
Lubrizol also celebrated a major milestone in nutraceutical innovation. Curcushine™ microcapsules were awarded Best Nutra Ingredient at incosmetics Global’s Inner Beauty Zone. This recognition is particularly significant, as it coincides with the introduction of nutraceutical ingredients at the trade show. Curcushine™ microcapsules is a potent microencapsulated natural
curcuminoids extract, designed to help rejuvenate the skin from within, reinforcing Lubrizol’s commitment to science backed beauty.
Completing this exceptional awards lineup, Eyeseryl® All In peptide received Bronze at the BSB Innovation Awards in the Active Ingredient category. Eyeseryl® All In peptide is a multifunctional and sustainable hexapeptide developed in line with green chemistry principles. Featuring a dual action mechanism targeting PAR 1 attenuation and seven facial soft tissues, including ligaments, it provides reinforced structural support for a rejuvenated eye contour appearance. Its development was supported by AI enhanced discovery, underscoring Lubrizol’s forward-looking approach to innovation.
These multiple recognitions reaffirm Lubrizol’s dedication to delivering high performance, sustainable and science driven solutions, which meet the evolving needs of the global beauty and nutraceutical markets.
NeoHelix™ Regenerate is designed to target damaged collagen areas, supporting skin’s natural self-repair mechanisms and adaptive collagen renewal
Lubrizol celebrates several prestigious awards
Re2 Coffea Arabica Peptide targets the growing ‘skinification’ of hair care trend
in-cosmetics Global launches the first Nutricosmetics Ingredient Index
The leading global event for personal care has launched its firstever Nutricosmetics Ingredient Index, offering a clear snapshot of the ingredients driving momentum in the fast-growing beautyfrom-within category.
As consumers increasingly prioritise well-being, the connection between nutrition, health and appearance is driving significant growth in the nutricosmetics market. Industry data suggests nutricosmetics are among the fastest-growing segments within nutraceuticals, with the global market projected to exceed $15.41 billion by 2030.1 Ingredients designed to support skin, hair and overall wellbeing from within are becoming a key focus for brands, with innovation accelerating across supplements, foods and beverages. Developed in collaboration with leading industry partners, including Euromonitor International, Kline & Company and Covalo, the index highlights the Top 10 ingredients gaining traction across the category. The top three ingredients identified in the index are collagen peptides, vitamin C and minerals, including zinc, magnesium and selenium, reflecting growing demand for ingredients that support skin health, immunity and overall wellbeing. Other ingredients featured include hyaluronic acid and plant-based actives. The index combines market data, formulation
insights and exhibitor activity to reflect both current demand and future direction.
The launch of the index coincides with the introduction of the Inner Beauty Zone at in-cosmetics Global, a dedicated space showcasing the latest innovations in ingestible beauty.
Andy Matter, event director at in-cosmetics Global, said:
“The launch of the Nutricosmetics Ingredient Index reflects the growing importance of beauty from within in the personal care industry. As consumers take a more holistic approach to health and beauty, we’re seeing increased demand for ingredients that deliver visible results while supporting long-term wellbeing. This index provides a clear view of the ingredients driving that innovation, while the Inner Beauty Zone brings them to life on the show floor.”
The Nutricosmetics Ingredient Index highlights the ingredients attracting the most attention from brands, suppliers and consumers. As interest in inner beauty continues to grow, it offers a useful reference point for understanding the ingredients shaping future innovation.
Download the full Nutricosmetics Ingredient Index here: www.in-cosmetics.com/global/en-gb/lp/nutricosmetics-index.html
Climate adaptive skincare for holistic wellbeing
ALPAFLOR® NEUROSOOTH is a new climate-adaptive neurocosmetic bioactive from dsm-firmenich. It is designed to interrupt the skin-mind stress loop and support holistic skin wellbeing.
Derived from Scutellaria alpina – a resilient Alpine plant cultivated at 1 500m to 2 500m – it inhibits key neuroinflammatory mediators (CGRP, TSLP, IL-33), boosts
β-endorphin production, and helps restore barrier resilience under environmental heat stress.
“As climate extremes become the new normal, Alpine survivors become skincare heroes. ALPAFLOR® NEUROSOOTH harnesses the adaptive power of Scutellaria alpina to strengthen skin resilience over time – supporting lifelong healthier-looking skin and emotional comfort,” says Francesca Pascucci, global director marketing skincare, dsm-firmenich.
Sustainably cultivated on old Alpine moraines with a local, ethical and transparent supply chain, a green extraction process is used to preserve full chemical integrity. Clinical results include a 34% reduction in stress-induced redness versus placebo, a 26% reduction in TEWL after two months and up to a 200% increase in feelings of safety and calm via EmoCompass® evaluations.
ALPAFLOR® NEUROSOOTH is available in South Africa from Chempure, the local agent for dsm-firmenich.
Biomimetic lamellar technology: the future of skin barrier repair
Healthy skin is built on structure – specifically, the precisely organised lamellar lipid bilayers of the stratum corneum. Replicating this structure in a formulation has long been the holy grail of barrier-focused skincare, and biomimetic technology is making this achievable.
Skin barrier health has become one of the most influential concepts in modern cosmetic science. Increasing consumer awareness around sensitive skin, overexfoliation, environmental stress and microbiome disruption is driving formulators to technologies that work with the skin rather than against it. At the same time, sustainability targets and regulatory pressure are accelerating the move away from traditional emulsifier systems toward biomimetic and naturally derived alternatives.
Conventional emulsifiers remain highly effective for stabilising emulsions, but growing research continues to highlight their potential impact on skin barrier integrity. Many surfactant-based systems may contribute to the ‘wash-out effect’, where essential intercellular lipids are gradually removed from the stratum corneum during repeated application. This can compromise barrier performance, increase transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and contribute to dryness, irritation and skin sensitivity.
As a result, formulators are increasingly exploring biomimetic technologies capable of delivering both product stability and skin compatibility.
Structured for success
In this space, Skin Lipid Matrix® (SLM) is one technology attracting significant attention.
Developed by Lipoid Kosmetik, SLM technology is a biomimetic lamellar system designed to mimic the natural lipid organisation of healthy skin. It combines hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine with skin-compatible lipids including Ceramide NP, squalane, shea-derived phytosterols and medium-chain triglycerides. These components self-organise into lamellar structures that closely resemble the architecture of the stratum corneum.
Lipoid Kosmetik offers two products based on SLM technology: 1. SLM Eco® – a cream matrix with hydrogenated sunflower phosphatidylcholine.
2. SLM 2026 – a cream matrix with hydrogenated soybean phosphatidylcholine.
The significance of the lamellar structure lies in how the skin functions naturally. The stratum corneum relies on lamellar lipid bilayers for moisture retention and provides protection against environmental stressors and pathogens. When these structures are disrupted, the skin barrier weakens, leading to increased TEWL and heightened sensitivity.
Ideal for today’s skincare landscape
SLM technology actively supports and replenishes the skin’s natural lipid matrix. This makes the technology particularly relevant for modern skincare categories focused on:
• sensitive skin
• barrier repair
• microbiome-friendly formulations
• post-procedure skincare
• baby care
• dermatological skincare
• minimalist formulations.
Beyond skin compatibility, SLM also addresses several important formulation challenges. From a sensory perspective, lamellar systems provide a distinctive skin feel compared to traditional emulsifiers. Formulations containing these products exhibit reduced tackiness,
Figure 1: Compromised skin susceptible to environmental stressors and TEWL (A). SLM replenishes the lipid matrix and effectively repairs damaged skin (B).
improved spreadability, soft after-feel and a rich but lightweight texture profile that aligns well with premium skincare positioning. The technology also supports current sustainability trends within cosmetic manufacturing. SLM Eco® is COSMOSapproved, vegan suitable, palm-free, non-GMO and derived from 100% natural origin materials.
The biomimetic benefits of SLM are supported by in vivo data. In a randomised study evaluating damaged skin, a formulation containing SLM Eco was tested against a conventional glyceryl stearate citrate system.
The future of formulation design
As consumer demand continues to shift toward gentle, long-term skin wellness, biomimetic technologies such as SLM are redefining the future of formulation design. By mimicking skin’s natural lamellar structure, these systems deliver effective performance, enhanced stability and a refined sensory experience without relying on overly complex formulations.
For today’s formulators, biomimetic lamellar technology offers a sophisticated pathway to creating skincare
“ SLM technology actively supports and replenishes the skin’s natural lipid matrix ”
Figure 2: Comparison of formulation with SLM in comparison to a control with glyceryl stearate citrate to determine skin barrier recovery
Performance redefined through touch
Multisensory care is shaping modern beauty. Texture, scent and touch now play a key role in how consumers experience a product. For formulators, this shift adds complexity.
It is no longer enough to deliver efficacy alone. Systems must balance performance, stability and sensory profile while also meeting expectations around naturality and simplified formulations.
Common challenges remain. Textures can feel too heavy or greasy. Fast-absorbing systems often lack richness. Naturally positioned formulations may compromise on performance, while pressure to simplify processing continues to increase.
Brenntag South Africa supports formulators in managing these trade-offs by combining application expertise with selected partner technologies to create formulations that are both effective and practical to implement.
A biotech approach to multifunctional lipid design
Achieving a light, elegant skin feel while supporting barrier function and hydration remains a recurring formulation challenge. Traditional plant oils can vary in composition and sensory profile, while synthetic emollients may not always align with formulation targets. CosVivet™ ActiLipid O7 offers a different approach. It is a new biotech-derived omega-7 lipid produced through controlled fermentation, ensuring a consistent composition and high purity. The lipid structure of CosVivet™ ActiLipid O7 allows for it to be integrated into the skin’s hydrolipid matrix, where it reinforces the
“ Modern formulation requires balancing performance, sensory experience and efficiency”
barrier and reduces transepidermal water loss while forming a light protective film on the surface. It also delivers a silky, lightweight skin feel with fast absorption, making the ingredient suitable for formulations targeting sensitive, dry, delicate or mature skin.
In addition, CosVivet™ ActiLipid O7 supports skin barrier function, improves hydration and contributes to skin regeneration while helping to reduce visible redness, combining measurable skin benefits with a refined sensory profile.
Proven performance across key skin parameters
Instrumental and in vivo studies confirm that CosVivet™ ActiLipid O7 delivers measurable improvements across multiple skin parameters.
Further measurements demonstrated improvements in elasticity and firmness, confirming its contribution to overall skin quality. Sensory evaluations also show improved spreadability, reduced tackiness and a refined after-feel compared to benchmark emollients.
The ingredient is 100% biobased, vegan and based on traceable renewable feedstocks, supporting more responsible formulation approaches.
Formulation relevance
These combined effects make CosVivet™ ActiLipid O7 a versatile ingredient for modern formulation design. It supports the development of lightweight emulsions with an improved sensory profile while contributing to barrier care and hydration. It can also help reduce the reliance on synthetic emollients in naturally positioned systems. You can use it to simplify formulations by combining multiple functions in one ingredient. The consistent composition of CosVivet™ ActiLipid O7 and its compatibility across systems make it easy to integrate into a wide range of applications.
Supporting formulation design
A serum containing 2.5% CosVivet™ ActiLipid O7 showed increased skin hydration from the first application, with improvements of up to 42% after four weeks of regular use. Skin regeneration improved by up to 19%, alongside visible improvements in skin texture and surface uniformity. Redness was reduced after continued application, supporting a soothing effect on stressed or sensitive skin. CalyCare™ Gel 100 is a cold-processable oil-phase gelling agent that enables the creation of stable oil gels with improved spreadability and a soft, dry after-feel. Its high oil absorption capacity allows formulators to design textures ranging from fluid gels to more structured systems without relying on waxes or complex processing. This supports the development of elegant, stable formulations while keeping processing efficient.
In addition to active performance, structuring oil-based systems remains an important aspect of formulation design.
Be inspired by our SunMelt oil gel SPF 50
High-SPF formulations are often difficult to balance. Increasing UV filter load can negatively affect texture, spreadability and after-feel.
SunMelt oil gel SPF 50 demonstrates how a structured oil gel system, combined with modern UV filter technology, can improve sensory performance in high protection formats. The formulation uses a combination of photostable, highefficiency UV filters (Sarasorb DHHB™, BEMT™ and DHBT™). These so-called second-generation filters enable lower use levels compared to traditional systems, helping to reduce oiliness and improve the mildness of the formula and the overall skin feel.
Combined with CalyCare™ Gel 100, the system spreads easily, absorbs quickly and leaves a light, non-oily finish while maintaining reliable UV protection.
Cleanse mildly with our VelvetMelt balm-to-milk cleanser
Cleansing systems often need to balance effective removal of impurities with skin comfort. Strong cleansing can lead to dryness, while milder systems may not remove make-up effectively.
VelvetMelt demonstrates how both aspects can be combined. The balm dissolves make-up, oil and impurities, then transforms into a light milky texture upon contact with water. It rinses clean while leaving the skin soft and balanced. The combination of ActiLipid O7 and CalyCare™ Gel 100 supports a smooth application, effective cleansing and a comfortable after-feel while keeping the formulation simple and efficient.
Customer support
Modern formulation requires balancing performance,
By combining biotech-derived lipids with functional structuring technologies, formulators can create systems that meet these requirements while maintaining simplicity and consistency in development.
The Brenntag South Africa Beauty & Care team can support you with ingredients, formulation expertise and practical solutions to help you move from concept to market more efficiently.
The future is shaped by the choices we make. Make yours count. •
Connect with Brenntag South Africa online: www.brenntag.com/en-za www.linkedin.com/company/brenntag/ www.facebook.com/BrenntagGlobal www.youtube.com/c/BrenntagGlobal
Explore longevitycellular as a formulation strategy
ETERWELL™ YOUTH is placing senolytic science at the heart of beauty’s most significant category shift. For South African formulators, this shift is now within reach.
The language of anti-ageing has had its day. Across prestige beauty and the skincare industry in general, a more considered vocabulary is emerging – one rooted in biology rather than aspiration, and in prevention rather than correction. Longevity beauty, defined by Forbes as a scienceled movement that prioritises preserving skin function over time and targeting the root causes of ageing, is no longer a niche concern. It is fast becoming the organising principle of the category’s most credible innovations.
Industry data confirms the shift. The longevity and antisenescence therapy market is projected to grow from approximately $800 billion to $1 868.2 billion by 2034, increasing at a CAGR of around 8.2%. Major beauty brands including Lancôme, Shiseido and Dior are already repositioning their most prestigious lines within this framework. Industry thinking has moved decisively away from surface correction toward something more fundamental: intervening in the skin’s biological age and extending its functional vitality over time. This distinction between correcting and preserving is what separates genuine longevity formulation strategy from everything that came before it.
ETERWELL™ YOUTH, developed by dsm-firmenich and available in South Africa through Chempure, was designed for precisely this moment.
The biology behind the breakthrough
To appreciate what makes ETERWELL™ YOUTH significant, it helps to understand the biological problem it addresses. As skin ages, senescent cells – the fibroblasts that have lost the capacity to divide but remain metabolically active – accumulate progressively in the dermis. Rather than clearing themselves through apoptosis, they persist, secreting a continuous stream of pro-inflammatory mediators known as the senescenceassociated secretory phenotype (SASP). It is SASP that degrades the extracellular matrix, suppresses collagen synthesis and disrupts the cutaneous microbiome, actively undermining the very mechanisms that most topical actives rely upon.
“ Senolytics represent one of the most compelling formulation opportunities in longevity beauty today”
No peptide, retinoid or antioxidant can meaningfully deliver on its promise while the senescent cell burden remains unresolved. This is why senolytics – agents that selectively clear senescent cells –represent one of the most compelling formulation opportunities in longevity beauty today.
ETERWELL™ YOUTH is a validated senolytic active. In a controlled in vitro assay on a fibroblast population comprising 70% normal and 30% senescent cells, identified via flow cytometry on the senescence-associated β-galactosidase marker, ETERWELL™ YOUTH reduced the senescent fibroblast burden by up to 52% (p<0.005), at a concentration of just 0.005%. The active also reduces SASP and restores collagen biosynthetic capacity in vitro. Notably, it delivers a 54% synergistic enhancement with TGF- β and retinol in vitro, creating significant formulation latitude for multiactive longevity products.
Source, standardisation and sustainability
ETERWELL™ YOUTH is derived from Epilobium fleischeri an alpine willow-herb cultivated under certified organic conditions with full seed-to-extract traceability. Harvested at first flower bud emergence in July, the extract is standardised to Myricitrin as the key marker compound at >40 mg/100 g (UHPLC). Natural origin content: 100% (ISO 16128).
Sustainability credentials are equally considered: carbon footprint 2.9 kg CO₂ eq/kg; water footprint 220 l/kg; 100% renewable electricity; Fair Trade certified supply chain; no palmderived inputs. For brands building longevity propositions that extend beyond efficacy to ethics, ETERWELL™ YOUTH holds its ground on both counts.
Innovative formulation concepts
Recommended at 1% to 3% in a formulation, ETERWELL™ YOUTH demonstrates its versatility in two distinct product formats.
Formulation: Cellular Age Reset Serum (SK-E-102427-18) Phase
A TILAMAR® PDO with NØØVISTA™
B SYN®-COLL CB Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Glycerin, Aqua
ETERWELL™ YOUTH Epilobium Fleischeri Leaf/Stem Extract, Glycerin, Aqua, Citric Acid
C Dermofeel® Sensolv MB Isoamyl Laurate 23.80 Argan Oil Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 3.00
Sanddornfruchtfleischoel kbÄ
DE-OEKO-001 Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
DUB ZEONAT Propanediol Dicaprylate
CEGESOFT® PFO Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil
Mixed Tocopherols 95 Tocopherol 0.50
SPARK THE SENSES P00Z613 Parfum, Linalool, Limonene, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalyl Acetate, Citronellol, Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil, Pinene, Terpineol, Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes 0.25
P00Z613 Parfum, Linalool, Limonene, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalyl Acetate, Citronellol, Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil, Pinene, Terpineol,
The Cellular Age Reset Serum is a waterless bi-phase serum with 99.77% natural origin content (ISO 16128). ETERWELL™ YOUTH is paired with SYN®-COLL CB (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5), which engages the TGF- β collagen synthesis pathway. Ascorbic acid is included as a cofactor in collagen cross-linking, delivering a mechanistically layered approach to skin firmness and fine line reduction.
Shield & Revitalize Cream SPF 50 is a featherlight facial or body cream packaged in roll-on format. The formulation demonstrates how senolytic actives integrate cleanly into high-performance sun care matrices.
The formulator’s case
For formulators mapping the longevity opportunity, the
consumer picture is clear. Gen X – now in their mid-forties to early sixties – represents the most commercially significant group for healthy skin ageing solutions. This is a generation that came of age with the first wave of evidence-based skincare. This generation understands ingredient science and is actively seeking products that match the sophistication of their expectations. They are not looking for promises – they want mechanisms.
ETERWELL™ YOUTH, with its validated senolytic activity and robust substantiation, speaks directly to market demands. Through Chempure, it is available to South African R&D teams ready to design formulations with it. •
“Gen X represents the most commercially significant group for healthy skin ageing solutions”
Connect with Chempure online: www.chempure.co.za www.linkedin.com/company/chempure
The future of hair care is longevity
The conversation around hair care is shifting. For decades, the industry has been dominated by reactive solutions – products that provide a temporary fix. Today, a new paradigm is emerging, one that repositions hair care within the broader framework of longevity science.
Leading this shift is Active Concepts’ newly launched Hairspan Kit, featuring AC ExoRoot as its hero active ingredient, now available in South Africa from Essential Specialised Products (ESP).
Unveiled at in-cosmetics Global, the Hairspan: Longevity Defined Kit is a curated collection of prototype formulations designed for the sustained preservation of hair health over time. At the heart of this concept is a simple yet scientifically powerful idea: Hairspan.
What is Hairspan?
Hairspan defines the biological window during which hair retains its density, strength, texture and colour vitality. Much like the concept of healthspan in anti-ageing medicine, Hairspan reframes the goal of hair care – from chasing cosmetic improvements to actively preserving the scalp microenvironment and follicle function that make healthy hair possible in the first place. This philosophy rests on five interconnected pillars: scalp health, density and growth, strength, texture and manageability and colour vitality. Together, these pillars form the biological foundation of long-term hair health. By targeting them proactively – before visible damage occurs – formulators can develop products that genuinely extend the period during which hair looks and performs at its best.
standardised for IGF-1 activity. Developed by Active Concepts, this amino acid-rich extracellular vesicle complex works at the scalp level to supplement and restore the biological signalling pathways that support healthy hair growth cycles.
The mechanism is rooted in the role of Insulin-like Growth Factor-1 (IGF-1) in follicle biology. IGF-1 is a critical growth-phase signalling molecule responsible for maintaining the anagen (active growth) phase of the hair follicle. As the scalp ages or is subjected to chronic stress – whether oxidative, inflammatory, or environmental – IGF-1 signaling diminishes, shortening the growth window and ultimately reducing hair density and vitality.
AC ExoRoot directly addresses this decline. Derived from Chlorella vulgaris extracellular vesicles and enriched with phospholipids and Lactobacillus ferment, the ingredient delivers a bioactive payload of peptides, amino acids and membrane lipids that modulate scalp homeostasis and revive follicle growthphase signalling.
The efficacy data is compelling:
• 185% increase in IGF-1 synthesis
• 13% improvement in scalp hydration
• 30% reduction in scalp inflammation.
These results position AC ExoRoot not merely as a hair growth active, but as a scalp biology supplement – one that works upstream to protect the conditions necessary for hair to remain healthy over time.
“ Like the concept of healthspan in anti-ageing medicine, Hairspan reframes the goal of hair care”
Healthy scalp, stronger hair
The first of the two formulations highlighted is Scalp Synergy. This is a lightweight, silky emulsion designed to hydrate, balance and revitalise the scalp while laying the biological groundwork for sustained hair health.
At 1% inclusion, AC ExoRoot anchors the formulation’s longevity credentials. Together with the other ingredients, they create a product that simultaneously addresses multiple Hairspan pillars – scalp health, density and growth – in a single lightweight leave-on format. It is precisely the kind of multifunctional, science-led formulation that modern consumers and salon professionals are seeking.
Formulation: Fortifying Hair Masque
Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Acid Citric Acid
B Vegetable Ceramide G Glycerin & Glycosphingolipids
Glycol
Chloride
Betaine Betaine
AC Quarternized HYA SF Water & Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate & Lactobacillus Ferment
Panthenol
Cetyl Esters
Chloride
Sweet Almond Oil Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 3.00
Acai Sterols EFA Euterpe Oleracea Sterols & Linoleic Acid & Oleic Acid & Linolenic Acid
Bis-Polycitronellyl Succinate
AC Barrier Protect Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract & Santalum Album (Sandalwood)
Avocado Butter Oil Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter(+) & Persea Gratissima (Avocado)
Brassica Alcohol (and) Brassicyl Valinate Esylate
Coconut Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract
ProCutigen®
ESP – Essential Specialised Products
The second featured formulation, the Fortifying Hair Masque, takes the Hairspan philosophy from the scalp to the strand. This rich conditioning treatment is built around a complex layering of bioactives, emollients, and structural agents that work synergistically to restore and preserve hair integrity.
AC ExoRoot features at 5% in this formulation – its highest inclusion in the Hairspan Kit – reflecting the masque’s role as the intensive treatment step of the regimen. This is formulation design at its most sophisticated, offering a full-spectrum hair longevity treatment that delivers immediate sensory payoff alongside measurable long-term benefits.
The longevity opportunity
The Hairspan Kit and AC ExoRoot represent a genuine opportunity for South African formulators and brands to lead in the longevity hair care space. As consumers become increasingly sophisticated in their understanding of scalp
biology and the relationship between long-term care and visible results, products grounded in credible science will command growing loyalty and market share.
AC ExoRoot is available in South Africa exclusively through ESP. For formulation support and mixing procedures, technical data sheets, or samples, contact ESP directly. •
Connect with ESP online:
www.esp-sa.co.za
www.linkedin.com/company/essential-specialised-products
www.facebook.com/essential.specialised.products www.instagram.com/essential_specialised_products
Scent by design: Unlock personalised beauty with fragrance layering
Scent has always been deeply personal. Now, it’s becoming powerfully intentional. Fragrance layering – the art of combining multiple scented formats to build a bespoke, evolving aroma – is one of the most significant shifts reshaping the beauty and personal care landscape. For brands looking to lead this movement, IMCD’s Fragrance Layering Kit offers a compelling, ready-to-develop platform.
The science of scent and emotion is hard to ignore. According to research cited by IMCD, 99% of consumers believe fragrance can transform their emotional wellbeing, while 80% of fragrance users associate scent with mood enhancement.1,2 Perhaps most striking of all, 75% of daily emotions are triggered by smell – a statistic that positions fragrance not merely as a finishing touch, but as a fundamental driver of human experience. 3 Even specific olfactive families carry measurable impact: citrus scents have been linked to a 40% reduction in stress and anxiety, underscoring the therapeutic potential of a well-designed scent portfolio.⁴ It is within this context that fragrance layering has moved from a niche ritual to a mainstream opportunity. Rather than committing to a single signature scent, today’s consumers, particularly younger demographics like Gen Z and Gen Alpha, prefer a scent wardrobe. This is a curated collection of complementary fragranced formats that can be mixed and matched to suit mood, occasion, or season. Social media has turbocharged this trend, with layering rituals finding enthusiastic audiences on TikTok and Instagram.
IMCD’s Beauty & Personal Care team has responded to this shift with a structured approach to fragrance layering, advising brands on concept territories, ingredient selection and formulation pathways from ideation through to finished product and market activation. Its Fragrance Layering Kit exemplifies this methodology, anchored by a luxurious, multifunctional Hair & Body Mist available across five distinct fragrance variants.
“ Rather than committing to a single signature scent, today’s consumers prefer a scent wardrobe”
Five fragrance identities, one cohesive collection
The Hair & Body Mist collection spans five carefully crafted fragrance profiles, each designed to stand alone or harmonise beautifully within a layered routine.
1. Opal opens with apple and coconut, softening into rose and tuberose over a warm amber-wood base.
2. Eclipse blends peach and jasmine with orange blossom and rose, grounded by sandalwood and musk for a timeless fruityfloral signature.
3. Radiance fuses mandarin and a caipirinha accord with tuberose and ylang-ylang, settling into gourmand vanilla.
4. Fuego is the collection’s most intense expression with coconut and incense intertwined with smoky vanilla over Palo Santo and amber.
5. Aire offers fresh relief through lemon, mandarin and cardamom, softened by cashmere and cedar.
A
formulation built for performance
The Hair & Body Mist is a clear, sprayable liquid that dispenses as a fine mist, leaving a lingering, delicate scent on hair and skin. Lightweight yet conditioning, it is perfectly suited to the modern multi-use format consumer. At its core, the formulation features high-performance ingredients sourced with both efficacy and sustainability in mind.
Inositol, upcycled from sugar beets, functions as an energising osmolyte that improves keratinocyte differentiation, boosts fibroblast metabolism and enhances elasticity, moisture, and scalp and hair vitality.
Betaine, derived from sugar beet molasses, acts as a powerful osmoprotectant: hydrating the skin, reinforcing the barrier, reducing irritation and strengthening hair while taming frizz.
An Alpha-Glucan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride blend contributes cationic conditioning that improves wet and dry combing, adds gloss and softness, and reduces skin roughness –all while being cold-processable and biodegradable.
Ethylhexylglycerin rounds out the actives as a 100% natural, multifunctional additive that doubles as a fragrance fixative and emollient, ensuring scent longevity across formats. The formulation is set to a pH of 5.0 for optimal skin compatibility, with fragrance solubilised using Polysorbate 20 (Monebat 20) for optimal clarity.
The full formulation is detailed in the table below.
Formulation: Hair & Body Mist
Phase
Alpha-Glucan
B Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Octenidine HCl
Alcohol denat. 19.00
Ethylhexylglycerin 0.50
C Parfum (Fragrance) 4.00
Polysorbate 20 10.00
D Aqua (Water), Lactic Acid 1.48 Total: 100
References:
With fragrance layering poised as a long-term structural shift in beauty and personal care, IMCD’s Hair & Body Mist formulation offers brands a scientifically sound, consumeraligned and commercially exciting entry point into this growing category.
To explore layer-ready scent design and discover how IMCD can support your formulation journey from concept to shelf, visit www.imcdsa.co.za. •
1. https://benchmarkingcompany.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/09/Next-in-Beauty-TBC-Fragrance-May2025.pdf
2. https://freeyourself.com/blogs/news/emotional-connection-to-fragrance-statistics
3. https://us.moodmedia.com/scent/scent-research/
4. https://tofeperfume.com/blogs/the-psychology-of-scent.html
Fragrance Evolution
From single signatures to personalised scent experiences across beauty routines
Fragrance layering is reshaping how consumers experience scent. Instead of relying on one fragrance, modern routines combine complementary layers across body, hair and beauty formats to create more personal, flexible and expressive scent journeys. This shift opens new opportunities to design modular fragrance systems that enhance individuality, deepen engagement and extend fragrance storytelling across categories. Explore how layered scent strategies can unlock new possibilities for modern beauty innovation.
www.imcdsa.co.za
Connect with IMCD South Africa online: www.imcdsa.co.za
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Beyond ingredients: The rise of intelligent formulation systems
The future of cosmetic formulation isn’t just about better ingredients; it is also about smarter architecture. Discover how structure-driven systems are unlocking new levels of efficacy, stability and sustainability in personal care.
As formulation challenges become more complex, the focus is shifting from individual ingredients to intelligent systems that enable performance. From stabilising ceramides in aqueous systems, to replacing PEG and silicone emulsifiers and enabling high-oil cleansing without compromising mildness – each approach reflects the same principle: performance is driven by
structure, not just composition. The future of cosmetic formulation lies not just in what you use, but in how intelligently you use it.
them cold processable. This innovation, distributed locally by Orchem, utilises a multi-lamellar emulsion structure in which ceramides are incorporated within layered lipid assemblies, enhancing their stability, distribution and overall performance in aqueous formulations. This is an emulsion in which amphiphilic molecules (with hydrophilic heads and hydrophobic tails) selfassemble into layered bilayer structures in water.
Through structured bilayer assemblies, ceramides are dispersed within a stable, lamellar network that:
• enables cold-processable formulation
Ceramide complexity in formulation design
Ceramides are important for skin barrier function, making up approximately 50% of the lipid content in the stratum corneum. Despite their importance, ceramides – like other active ingredients
– have complexities when it comes to incorporating them in a cosmetic formulation. Their complex molecular structure, comprising varying sphingoid bases, fatty acid chain lengths and degrees of hydroxylation, creates significant variability in behaviour, making formulation consistency challenging.
More importantly, ceramides are highly lipophilic and inherently insoluble in water. This presents a major challenge in conventional cosmetic systems, which are predominantly aqueous.
Without proper lamellar emulsion systems, ceramides:
• exhibit poor dispersion
• are prone to recrystallisation or phase separation
• show limited bioavailability on skin.
As a result, many formulations fail to deliver meaningful efficacy, despite the inclusion of ceramides on the label.
Advanced multi-lamellar systems for ceramide stabilisation
Evonik Care Solutions has developed an advanced multi-lamella system that allows ceramides to be dispersed in water, making
“ Stabilising formulations with high oil content remains technically challenging”
• allows water-compatible (dispersed) incorporation of ceramides
• provides enhanced physical stability, preventing crystallisation and phase separation.
The biomimetic structure mimics the lipid organisation of the stratum corneum, improving ceramide distribution, skin compatibility and overall barrier-repair performance.
Emulsification moves beyond silicones and PEGs
The increasing demand for natural and sustainable cosmetic formulations is driving the shift away from traditional silicone- and PEG-based emulsification systems, particularly in colour cosmetics. Silicone emulsifiers offer strong performance and sensory benefits but are inherently non-biodegradable due to their stable Si–O backbone, contributing to environmental persistence. As regulatory scrutiny and consumer awareness grows, formulators are under increasing pressure to adopt alternatives that meet performance and sustainability requirements.
The shift to polyglycerol emulsifiers
Polyglycerol emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants derived from fully renewable raw materials, typically glycerine and fatty acids, forming polyglycerol esters. These systems
Formulation: Ceramide Radiance Mist
provide effective emulsification through multiple hydroxyl functionalities, enabling strong water interaction without the need for PEG structures while avoiding the persistence associated with silicones.
In Orchem’s formulations, these systems have demonstrated:
• robust emulsion stability, even in high-electrolyte systems
• stability across a wide pH range
• compatibility with difficult actives
• combined emulsification and moisturisation benefits
• robustness across various applications. This enables the replacement of traditional PEG and silicone systems without compromising performance.
A case for high-oil cleansing
Dry skin remains one of the most challenging conditions to manage, particularly during cleansing. Traditional surfactants such as SLES and SLS are highly efficient at removing not only surface impurities but also essential skin lipids, leading to barrier disruption, dryness, and irritation.
High-oil cleansing offers a gentler alternative by depositing nourishing oils onto the skin, improving comfort and reducing dryness. However, stabilising formulations with high oil content (often up to 50%) remains technically challenging.
Lamellar sulphosuccinate systems
Evonik’s Tego Sulfosuccinate DO 75, distributed by Orchem, addresses this challenge effectively. These oil-soluble surfactants act directly within the oil phase, reducing interfacial tension and enabling the formation of stable oil-in-water systems. Their unique structure promotes the formation of lamellar liquid crystalline phases, which trap and stabilise oil droplets, allowing high oil loads (up to 50%) to be incorporated without phase separation. Send an email to Orchem if you have questions or need formulation support: nikita.haripersad@orchem.co.za or musa.sibanda@orchem.co.za. •
African Care Solutions
The science in our roots
Driving
Sustainable Growth
Long before modern formulation science had a name, Africa understood care through observation, adaptation, and deep knowledge of ingredients and
Powered by world-class suppliers such as Evonik Care
Solutions, we combine global innovation and technical expertise with deep local insight to help our partners create solutions that are designed for African
managment@redachem.com
www.orchem.co.za
Connect with Orchem online: www.orchem.co.za www.linkedin.com/company/orchem
Beyond clean: The new era of high-performance natural formulation
South Africa’s beauty market is changing rapidly – and consumer expectations are leading the change. Today’s shoppers have moved on from the old trade-off between natural and effective; they expect both, without compromise. This is particularly evident in two high-growth segments: the curly and coily hair care category, where consumers demand real performance, and daily sun protection across all skin phototypes.
For formulators, the brief is clear: sensorial elegance, proven performance and high naturalness must coexist in a single formula. The challenge is real – but so is the toolkit. The good news is the ingredients to make it happen already exist.
Natural texturisers in modern formulations
Texture is where a product wins or loses the consumer. It is the first sensorial touchpoint; the silent promise of quality. SAFIC’ Care natural texturisers are redefining what plant-derived rheology modifiers can achieve.
SAFIC’ Care T A 80-400, an algin-based thickener, delivers rich slip and smooth application in aqueous systems, while SAFIC’ Care T XG Clear P, a high-purity xanthan gum, provides crystal-clear gelling with excellent suspending power. For emulsion systems requiring thermal stability, SAFIC’ Care T XCG – a synergistic blend of carob gum and xanthan gum – offers robust structuring without compromising the light, fluid textures consumers love. Together, these three ingredients form a versatile natural texturising platform adaptable to hair care gels, sun fluids, serums and beyond.
“ SAFIC’ Care natural texturisers are redefining what plant-derived rheology modifiers can achieve”
Safic Alcan Southern Chemicals
Curl definition reimagined
Curly, coily and wavy hair deserves formulas that understand its unique structure. Jelly Twist, a candy-pink curldefining jelly, demonstrates how natural texturisers and high-performance actives can work in harmony.
SAFIC’ Care T A 80-400 and T XG Clear P
create a lightweight gel matrix with exceptional slip, making application effortless on dense curl patterns. Ingredients from Symrise are included to elevate the formulation. Symprot’in™ Oat strengthens and repairs the hair fibre with oatderived peptides, Hydrolite® 5 green acts as a multifunctional moisturiser and preservative booster, while SymSave® H provides antioxidant protection – all without synthetic preservatives. The result is a 95.1% natural origin formula (ISO 16128) that holds curls, fights humidity and leaves hair defined without crunch. Proof that naturalness and styling performance are no longer mutually exclusive.
Sun protection without compromise
Achieving high natural origin content in a sunscreen is one of the toughest formulation challenges. Every percentage point of UV filter added reduces naturalness, making the balance between protection and clean credentials a true technical feat.
Solar Eclipse, a daily SPF 50+ face fluid, achieves 71.1% natural origin, which is a remarkable figure for a broad-spectrum formula carrying four organic filters. The Symrise Neo Heliopan® system (BMT, 354, EHT and Hydro USP) provides layered UVA/ UVB protection, boosted by SymEffect® Sun for enhanced SPF efficiency without increasing filter load.
Emulsiphos® F ensures stable emulsification, Biotive® L-Arginine adjusts
“ SAFIC’ Care T A 80-400 and T XG Clear P create a lightweight gel matrix with exceptional slip, making application effortless on dense curl patterns”
Safic Alcan Southern Chemicals
pH while contributing to skin comfort, and Hydrolite® 5 green rounds out both preservation and performance benefits.
SAFIC’ Care T XCG structures the aqueous phase, delivering a light, fast-absorbing fluid with a powdery, non-sticky finish. The result is an ideal daily-wear texture suited to South Africa’s warm climate and the needs of every skin tone.
Your formulation partner on the ground
The Safic Alcan team believes great formulation starts with the right partnership. The company’s technical teams work alongside South African formulators to translate global ingredient innovation into locally relevant, market-ready concepts. Whether you are developing a curly hair hero product or the next-generation of skincare essentials, Safic Alcan provides the ingredients, formulation expertise and inspiration to bring your vision to life. •
A Demineralised water
Helichrysum Italicum BioPhytWater
Italicum Flower Water, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
C Pellicer™ L-30 Aqua, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine
Emulsiphos® F Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides 2.00
SymEffect® Sun Cera Alba, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate 1.50
D Harmonie™ NatuVel gel Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Squalane
Neo Heliopan® BMT Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Neo Heliopan® 354 Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
AB C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
MTS-50 Tocopherol, Glycine Soja Oil
Connect with Safic Alcan Southern Chemicals online: www.safic-alcan.com/en-za
www.linkedin.com/company/safic-alcan www.youtube.com/channel/UCoIA4hStlURGStnhfEhlgDw
The future of formulation is fermented
Savannah Fine Chemicals introduces Holiferm’s sophorolipid biosurfactants – a game-changing, nature-derived alternative to petrochemical surfactants for personal care and home care formulations.
The global formulation industry is at a turning point. Consumer demand for cleaner labels, greener chemistry and ingredient transparency has never been more intense – and yet formulators still need actives with strong performance. It is precisely at this intersection of sustainability and efficacy that Holiferm’s sophorolipid biosurfactants have found their moment.
Founded in 2018 as a spin-out from the University of Manchester, Holiferm was built on a single, compelling vision: to create a world where sustainable, better-value biochemicals reduce our reliance on petrochemicals. What began as a research concept has evolved into a fully operational commercial manufacturer. By February 2023, Holiferm’s plant in England was in full-scale production, shipping biosurfactants globally. The company’s breakthrough lies in a patented gravity separation technology that streamlines the purification of sophorolipids, making commercial-scale production both viable and cost-competitive. For formulators and brand owners, this translates into an accessible, high performing, green ingredient for home care and personal applications.
What are sophorolipids?
The result is a surfactant that is 100% biodegradable and produced from 100% renewable carbon feedstocks. It is nonGMO, palm-free, sulphate-free, 1,4-dioxane-free, and Ecocert/ COSMOS approved. Compared to traditional petrochemical surfactants, sophorolipids offer a dramatically lower carbon footprint, with lifecycle analyses indicating a reduction of approximately 1.5t of CO₂ per tonne of product versus conventional alternatives.
Sophorolipids are a class of glycolipid biosurfactant produced through the natural fermentation of yeast. The process transforms sugars and vegetable oils, which are renewable raw materials, into highly functional sophorolipid molecules.
Personal care reimagined
For personal care applications, Holiferm offers HoliSurf, which is available in two grades:
1. HoliSurf HF is optimised for micellar water, toners and light cleansing applications
2. HoliSurf LF is ideally suited to rinse-off cleansers, shampoos and body washes.
What sets HoliSurf apart is its remarkable mildness profile. In comparative testing, it demonstrated superior eye and skin mildness whilst actively supporting skin barrier integrity and hydration.
HoliSurf is also microbiome friendly. It preserves skin’s beneficial microbial flora whilst selectively reducing Cutibacterium acnes, making it particularly compelling for formulations designed for sensitive infant skin and acne-prone skin.
Beyond mildness, HoliSurf delivers outstanding cleansing performance with effective sebum, makeup and environmental particulate removal at lower active concentrations than conventional benchmarks. It functions as an emulsifier for
“Holiferm’s HoneySurf range brings the same biosurfactant technology into laundry, dishwashing and hard-surface cleaning applications”
oil-in-water systems, a fragrance solubiliser and a foam booster or modifier, making it a multifunctional ingredient that can streamline formulation complexity.
Home care with a conscience
For the home care market, Holiferm’s HoneySurf range brings the same biosurfactant technology into laundry, dishwashing and hard-surface cleaning applications. Like HoliSurf, HoneySurf is available in HF (acidic) and LF (lactonic) grades, each optimised for different cleaning tasks.
HoneySurf delivers powerful detergency and degreasing performance. It matches and, in several cases, outperforms common petrochemical surfactants such as alkyl polyglucosides and alkyl ethoxylates, but at lower active concentrations. This enables formulators to reduce their total surfactant loading, which offers cost saving and sustainability benefits.
HoneySurf also exhibits notable anti-biofilm activity, helping to control microbial films on hard surfaces, and it is ECODETERGENT certified. It is safe for use across all surface types and is child- and pet-friendly.
Three formulations, one philosophy
To demonstrate the real-world versatility of Holiferm’s sophorolipid biosurfactants, three formulations are presented. Each has been developed to showcase performance, naturality and formulation simplicity.
The HoliSurf HF Micellar Water achieves a remarkable 99.4% natural origin content with just a handful of ingredients.
The HoliSurf LF Exfoliating Cleanser delivers powerful yet gentle cleansing, combining sophorolipid actives with naturally derived exfoliants and a >97% natural origin claim.
The HoneySurf LF Laundry Liquid rounds out the trio as a straightforward, effective laundry formulation. It brings biosurfactant performance into the everyday home care routine.
Savannah Fine Chemicals
Local access to leading global solutions
With Holiferm’s commercial plant now fully operational and products shipping globally, local formulators have direct access to this next-generation ingredient technology. In South Africa, Holiferm’s sophorolipid biosurfactants are available through Savannah Fine Chemicals, a trusted distributor of speciality raw materials and ingredients.
For decision-makers developing tomorrow’s beauty, personal care and home care products, sophorolipid biosurfactants represent more than an incremental improvement. Gentle enough
for sensitive infant skin, powerful enough for tough household cleaning, and kind enough to the planet to satisfy the most demanding sustainability standards – sophorolipid biosurfactants redefine what a surfactant can be. • Formulation: HoliSurf
www.savannah.co.za/ www.linkedin.com/company/savannah-fine-chemicals-pty-ltd/
Texture, empathy and efficacy: A skincare vision for 2026
Beauty has always been personal, but in 2026, Vantage Personal Care is making this proposition literal. At in-cosmetics Global, the specialty ingredients supplier launched its Beautiful Empathy campaign – a forward-looking formulation concept built on the intersection of human creativity and artificial intelligence.
Beautiful Empathy is more than a campaign; it is a curated system of five new ingredients and 15 launch-ready formulations, each designed around sensorial luxury, targeted performance and sustainable sourcing. The concept speaks directly to a consumer who is simultaneously demanding clinical efficacy, responsible ingredient provenance and an elevated sensory experience. Two of the headline skincare formulations – Crème de Marshmallow and Cloud Clear Face Cream – bring these ambitions to life through a pair of equally headlineworthy new actives: Stratasync Jojoba and Azenova.
A postbiotic approach to well-ageing
Stratasync Jojoba is a patent-pending postbiotic bio-ferment created from upcycled jojoba seed by-product through a Lactobacillus fermentation process. Its INCI, Lactobacillus/Jojoba Seed Extract Ferment Filtrate, reflects the dual story at its core: circularity and bioavailability. By valorising a by-product that would otherwise be discarded, Vantage has created an ingredient with an ISO 16128 natural-origin index of 100%, positioned firmly within a circulareconomy model.
Fermentation transforms the raw jojoba material in meaningful ways: protein content doubles relative to the unfermented control, and free amino acids – aspartic acid, glutamic acid and lysine – are elevated. These amino acids contribute directly to skin hydration,
collagen biosynthesis and barrier function. In vitro data reveals a striking 111% upregulation of Collagen Type I, a tenfold increase in Protocadherin-18 expression and a 55% increase in Opioid Growth Factor Receptor. These are all markers associated with skin structure, renewal and resilience.
Making azelaic acid work harder
Azelaic acid is a long-established multifunctional active, valued for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and skin-brightening
“Azelaic acid is a longestablished multifunctional active, valued for its antiinflammatory, antimicrobial and skin-brightening properties”
properties. Its clinical efficacy in managing acne, rosacea and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is well documented. However, its physical form has always been a challenge for formulators. Azelaic acid is notoriously difficult to work with, prone to recrystallisation and capable of imparting grittiness in finished products.
Azenova overcomes this challenge. As a proprietary, patentpending micronised azelaic acid dispersion from Vantage, it presents azelaic acid in a pourable liquid gel format – a 45% active
in a base of water, propanediol and xanthan gum – with the particle size reduced through micronisation to prevent agglomeration, eliminate grittiness and improve stability within emulsions and gel systems. The result is a formulator-friendly active that delivers a smooth, homogeneous product with an improved consumer sensory experience.
Azenova at 5% achieves comparable melanin inhibition to 1% kojic acid or 10% regular azelaic acid, effectively doubling the active efficiency. It achieves similar reductions in Cutibacterium acnes counts and IL-8 expression at approximately half the concentration required by conventional crystalline azelaic acid. Its antifungal activity against Malassezia restricta also positions it well for dualpurpose face and scalp applications.
Texture as therapy
The first of the two showcase formulations demonstrates exactly what can be achieved when ingredient innovation meets intentional texture design. Crème de Marshmallow is a rich, marshmallowtextured moisturiser that delivers a multisensory experience rooted in barrier science.
The emollient system is built around three complementary natural lipid sources — Jojoba Esters-60, Textron Olive Squalane, and DW Jojoba Golden (golden jojoba oil) — which together mirror the skin’s natural lipid profile to reinforce the moisture barrier and alleviate dryness. Stratasync Jojoba is incorporated at 1%, lending its collagen-stimulating and hydration-boosting bioactivity to an already nourishing base.
Formulation: Crème de Marshmallow Phase Ingredient INCI
GL93 Glycerin
B JEESPERSE® OPTIDERM-NCS Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and)
Dehydroxanthan Gum (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (and)
Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil (and) Salvia Hispanica
C LIPOCOL® SC PASTILLES
OLIVE SQUALANE Squalane
DW JOJOBA GOLDEN Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
DISTINCTIVE® MAC Ethyl Macadamiate
D EQUILIBRIUM GREEN™ 7
Caprylyl Glycol (and) Glyceryl Laurate (and) Glyceryl Undecylenate
BIOSIGNAL® LIPID 10 Glycerin (and) Phospholipids
STRATASYNC™ JOJOBA Aqua (Water) (and)
Lactobacillus/Jojoba
Seed Extract Ferment
Filtrate
(Fragrance)
Vantage Personal Care
Where Crème de Marshmallow embraces richness, Cloud Clear Face Cream occupies the opposite end of the texture spectrum. It is light, airy and cloud-like, with a fast-absorbing, non-greasy finish that appeals to consumers managing blemish-prone or sensitive skin. At its core is Azenova at 22%, delivering meaningful azelaic acid activity in a format that integrates seamlessly into the emulsion system without grittiness or instability.
Formulating for the future
Crème de Marshmallow and Cloud Clear Face Cream demonstrate the breadth of what Beautiful Empathy encompasses. One is indulgent, nourishing and texturally expressive; the other is lightweight, clarifying and clinically targeted. Both are grounded in sustainability, powered by innovation and designed with the individual consumer in mind.
For formulators and brand developers in the South African skincare space, the Beautiful Empathy collection offers a ready-to-adapt toolkit – complete ingredients, tested formulations and credible efficacy data – which removes complexity without compromising creativity. For samples and local formulation support, send an email to Johrinda.Nel@vantagegrp.com. •
Euxyl® PE 9010 Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
Montanov® 202 Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside
LIPONATE® GC Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5.50%
LIPONATE® CCC Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 6.00%
LIPONATE® JOJOBA 20 Jojoba Esters 4.50%
Bioxan® T 90 Tocopherol 0.02%
LIPO® BISABOLOL Bisabolol 0.10%
C AZENOVA™ Aqua (Water) (and) Azelaic Acid (and) Propanediol (and) Xanthan Gum
D NaOH (10% solution) Aqua (Water) (and) Sodium Hydroxide qs
E Sepimax™ ZEN Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 0.15%
F BIOSIGNAL® LIPID 10 Glycerin (and) Phospholipids 1.00%
G RonaFlair® Fines (CI 77163) CI 77163 1.00%
H Fragrance (True Sailing CO) Parfum (Fragrance) 0.3% Total 100%
Connect with Vantage Personal Care online: www.vantagegrp.com/en/markets/personal-care-beauty/ www.linkedin.com/showcase/vantage-pc/ www.youtube.com/@Vantage_Grp/featured
Patent-pending bio-ferment from upcycled jojoba seed extract that revives and rebuilds the skin in the face, neck, and décolletage areas.
novel, patent-pending micronized azelaic acid in a liquid form designed to enhance formulation stability, improve formulation sensory experience, and increase skin care performance.
