New Milford, New Hampshire: Once a Jewel; Now a Ghost
white pine The
series of
architectural monographs volume xxix number two
Newburyport: America’s Original Seaport
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% Newburyport, Massachusetts: Magic on the Merrimack 5 % Early Newburyport: Maritime Marvel 5 Eastern White Pine: America’s Original Global Commodity 1
% Post-Colonial Newburyport: Shipbuilder’s Mecca 5 % High Street, Newburyport: A Legacy of Mariners 5 M % Historic Newburyport: Beloved Destination 5
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Š NELMA 2010 Cumberland, Maine
an architectural
monograph Newburyport: America’s Original Seaport Prepared for Publication by Northeastern Lumber Manufacturers Association 272 Tuttle Road Cumberland, ME 04021 Š 2010
The Bradbury-Spalding House, 2010
The Bradbury-Spalding House from the Original 1917 White Pine Monograph
“In visiting the town of Newburyport, I have obeyed a favorite inclination, and I am much gratified by the indulgence. In expressing a sincere wish for its prosperity, and the happiness of its inhabitants, I do justice to my own sentiments and their merit.” — George Washington
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Newburyport: America’s Original Seaport
The
white pine series of
architectural monographs A publication suggesting the architectural uses of eastern white pine and its availability today.
(8 volume xxix number two (8 +
Newburyport, Massachusetts: Magic on the Merrimack
A contemporary haven regarded for its quaint shops, waterfront restaurants, numerous marinas, and Boston-bound commuter population, Newburyport was considered one of the most vital ports in America during the country’s volatile years. Boasting such accolades as the East Coast’s first major commercial seaport, birthplace of the U.S. Coast Guard, and shipbuilding center for America’s fastest clipper ships, including the famous Dreadnought, Newburyport consistently ranks amongst New England’s most treasured tourist destinations. In the June 1917 volume of The White Pine Series of Architectural Monographs, Richard Arnold Fisher reported, “While there are interesting buildings in all parts of the town, the chief architectural interest of Newburyport lies in its High Street, which, wide and straight, and shaded by elm trees throughout its length of three miles, is one of the most charming streets to be found anywhere in New England.” A city of just under 20,000 people, Newburyport is 28 miles northeast of Boston, making the community attractive to commuters who can afford to live along the historic treelined streets of idyllic maritime neighborhoods. 1
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ewburyport occupies the south bank of the Merrimack River as it empties into the Atlantic and battles the constant push and pull of tidal forces. Captain Paul White built the area’s first wharf in 1655. Over the years, the mouth of the 177 mile-long river provided sundry uses for an ever changing constituency—a fishing destination for Native Americans, a colonial-era commercial port, a protected harbor during the Revolutionary War, a center for privateers and shipbuilders during the War of 1812, and a place to launch tall ships for nearly 100 years. The area was once inhabited by the Pawtucket tribe and was settled in the 1630’s by European immigrants as Newberry Plantation. By mid-18th century, the town of Newbury was experiencing the typical colonial growth spurt. Due to the adequately deep and protective naThe Original 1917 White Pine Monograph ture of the Merrimack River, the portion of Newbury that relied on the waterfront for prosperity became so densely settled by the 1760’s that it broke off from Newbury and became Newburyport. The act, approved by Governor Francis Bernard on February 4, 1764, stated:
The area was once inhabited by the Pawtucket tribe and was settled in the 1630’s by European immigrants as Newberry Plantation.
“Whereas the town of Newbury is very large, and the inhabitants of that part of it who dwell by the water-side there, as it is commonly called, are mostly merchants, traders and artificers, and the inhabitants of the other parts of the town are chiefly husbandmen; by means whereof many difficulties and disputes have arisen in managing their public affairs. Be it enacted…That part of the said town of Newbury…be and hereby constituted and made a separate and distinct town...”/
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Early Newburyport: Maritime Marvel
+ Early Newburyport: Maritime Marvel
At the time of its inception, Newburyport was the smallest town in Massachusetts, with an area of 647 acres and a population of 2800 living in 357 homes. The tight, bustling waterfront originally consisted of three shipyards and several ferries. One ferry at the foot of Fish Street (now State Street) carried the Portsmouth Flying Stage Coach, which ran between Portsmouth, New Hampshire and Boston. Even at its birth, the town embraced commuting. Interestingly, the town had no bridges at the time, thus elevating the importance of the ferry system. It wasn’t until the end of the 18th century that the Essex Merrimac Bridge (to Amesbury) and the Newburyport Bridge (to Salisbury) replaced ferries crossing the Merrimack.
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n 1851, Newburyport achieved city status on the back of its laborious successes in the ubiquitous maritime industries of fIshing, shipbuilding, and overseas shipping. Oddly, silverware manufacturing was also a factor in Newburyport’s prosperity. Still, the port itself was always the source of wealth, vigor, and purpose for the growing community. The sea captains that called Newburyport home had mastered the triangular trade, importing West Indian molasses and exporting the resulting rum distilled from it. Distilleries, located in Market Square near the waterfront, included internationally regarded Caldwell’s Old Newburyport rum. During the 19th century, working the high seas was a violent and roguish endeavor, and the denizens of Newburyport recognized this fact perhaps more than mariners of any other East Coast port at the time. The 1800’s saw the mouth of the Merrimack become the base of operations for Newburyport Privateers. Like sea-going bounty hunters, these privately owned vessels were licensed to attack enemy shipping outfits out in the middle of the Atlantic. Despite suffering heavy losses, and widowing numerous women, Newburyport Privateers captured hundreds of British vessels during the Revolution and the War of 1812. The profits resulting from privateering during the Revolution inspired unprecedented building activity. Many of the large Federal style houses throughout the city, especially on High Street, are evidence of that time of bloody prosperity. 3
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Regarding less violent pursuits, Newburyport’s Custom House welcomed vessels from all over the world, registering cargoes with the port surveyor. According to one historic record, visiting ships “brought cloth goods and hardware from Liverpool, wine from Madeira, gunpowder from St. Petersburg, and molasses and sugar from the West Indies.” Robert Mills, architect of the Washington Monument and U.S. Treasury Building, designed the Custom House, which was built in 1835 “to facilitate growing overseas trade and tax collection of imported goods on the waterfront.” /
The James Baines, Designed By Donald McKay
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Eastern White Pine: America’s Original Global Commodity
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Eastern White Pine:
America’s Original Global Commodity Much has been written regarding Newburyport’s shipping and trading history, and a great deal of the information highlights the triangular trade involving molasses and even slaves. However, one key element of the region’s early nautical prosperity is of particular interest—Eastern White Pine. Donald Culross Peattie, in his A Natural History of North American Trees, highlights the importance of the precious species to New England maritime economics:
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…timber was the only great export of early New England.Within thirty years she was selling her White Pine not only to England but to Portugal, Spain, Africa, the West Indies, and ultimately even densely forested Madagascar. How could one sell trees to jungle countries can only be explained by recalling that most tropical timbers are heavy and hard; they lack the very qualities of lightness and softness in which the White Pine excels. It is the softest of all the Pines of eastern America, yet in proportion to its weight it is strong. In proportion to its strength, it could be had in solid “sticks” of prodigious lengths for masts, such as no other known part of the world was then producing. Certainly no wood light enough and strong enough for masting was grown in Europe in such lengths. And England…had no mastwood at all.” In 18th century America, Eastern White Pine was so abundant, easy to work with and long lasting, that the species yielded masts for local vessels as well as the British and American navies alike. The pine masts were cut in winter, hauled to the building yards, trimmed and rounded. Once shaped, the masts were ready to step (placed upon and attached to the ship’s keel). Whereas seasoned shipbuilding woods, like those used in a vessel’s hull, would be dried or cured, pine masts were desired “wet.” As with modern aluminum masts, a certain amount of give or flexibility is needed to withstand tremendous amounts of force from wind upon sail. The sap remaining in the pine gave it a suppleness that allowed for ample bending without cracking. In short, Eastern White Pine was the perfect wood for the towering masts of tall ships roaming the great blue expanses of the world. The use of Eastern White Pine for ship masts was a critical element of colonial America and a factor in its less than amicable relations with Britain. A recent volume of The White Pine Series of Architectural Monographs described how England’s throne treasured the tallest and finest pines within New England’s colonial confines. “Each one was emblazoned (three hatchet slashes) 5
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by the King’s Royal Surveyors with a mark that became known as the King’s Broad Arrow. This signified property of the King and that the trees were to be harvested and used solely for building ships for the Royal British Navy.” Needless to say, the colonists did not readily and graciously give up its Eastern White Pine, and the result was the violent birth of a new nation. Once the impetus for a revolution, Eastern White Pine would subsequently hold an only slightly more innocuous role in a harsh and salty global economy. And New England’s place in it wasn’t without controversy. As Peattie describes, “A great three-cornered trade was set up when…ships of their own building, the New England merchants exported White Pine to the Guinea coast of Africa, shipped on a load of human ebony, sold it into bondage in the West Indies, loaded up with sugar and rum, and raised sail for Portsmouth, Boston, Newburyport, or Salem. Of White Pine boards, and of the wealth that came from this trade, were built the quiet mansions of the seaport cities, the dignified doors, the exquisite fanlights.”
...the colonists did not readily and graciously give up its Eastern White Pine, and the result was the violent birth of a new nation.
Yes, slavery had its place along side white pine and molasses as a desired commodity. Its ugly presence made it as far as our fair Newburyport in more ways than one. For a time, the purchase of slaves in Massachusetts was illegal, but ownership of slaves purchased elsewhere was not. African and Native American slaves staffed many of the fine homes on High Street up until the Revolutionary War when the newly independent General Court of Massachusetts abolished slavery. It is important to point out, however, that Newburyport often showed its discomfort with the practice of slavery and eventually became a hotbed for abolitionism. The anti-slavery movement owes a lot to Newburyport’s William Lloyd Garrison, whose statue, “Garrison the Liberator,” stands in Brown Square, the scene of many abolitionist meetings. /
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Post-Colonial Newburyport: Shipbuilder’s Mecca
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Post-Colonial Newburyport: Shipbuilder’s Mecca
America’s first and most celebrated clipper ships were built in Newburyport. The city’s shipbuilding district was in full swing throughout most of the 19th century. The well-known Currier shipyard built more ships than any other U.S. shipyard of that time. A placard in the Custom House Maritime Museum states, “At the height of the sailing era [1840 through 1860] more ships of greater tonnage were built in Newburyport than anywhere on the Atlantic Coast.”
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t is widely believed that Donald McKay introduced clipper ships in 1844 in Newburyport. The name “clipper ship” refers to the unprecedented speed the enormous, multi-masted ships could produce at sea. Speed was a priority when it came to shipping large cargos across the Atlantic. The name is widely attributed to the English poet, Dryden, as he described the swift flight of a falcon: “And, with her eagerness the quarry missed / Straight flies at check, and clips it down the wind.” The term “clip” became synonymous with “speed” and an amalgamation of the word was given to the (then) fastest classification of ship in the world: the clipper ship. Newburyport’s most famous ship designer was Donald McKay, a Canadian-born American who opened his first boatyard in Newburyport in 1841 before moving to East Boston in 1845. McKay favored and developed a long, fine bow with increasing hollow at the waterlines. Long, expanding bows plow through a wave rather than ride over it, reducing resistance as a vessel approaches hull speed. One nautical source states, “McKay’s hulls had a shorter afterbody, putting the center of buoyancy farther aft, than was typical of the period, as well as a full midsection with rather flat bottom. These characteristics led to lower drag at high speed compared to contemporary ships of similar length, as well as great stability which translated into the ability to carry sail in high winds.” Another source, eraoftheclipperships.com, describes how McKay established himself in Newburyport: “When he finished up his work at Wisscasset [Maine], Donald McKay was returning to New York, and along the way he stopped over at Newburyport, Massachusetts, at the mouth of the Merrimack River, where there was a unique, thriving shipbuilding community that had been around 7
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for two hundred years. Donald McKay liked what he saw there. Unlike Salem that depended upon the East Indies trade, Newburyport specialized in the Labrador and bay fisheries, and in the coasting, West Indian, and European trades. A steady supply of oak and pine from the interior would keep the sawmills and shipyards busy. Wood prices were lower in Newburyport and this attracted contracts for the local shipyards to build ever-larger ships for the competing shipping lines of the Boston and New York Merchants…McKay liked what he saw in this shipbuilding community and found work in the shipyard of John Currier, Jr., then one of the foremost shipbuilders in Newburyport.” McKay, building upon previous shipbuilding experience, cut his teeth in Newburyport before moving on to East Boston where he achieved fame as the builder of the clipper Great Republic in 1853. At 335 feet long and 4555 tons, Great Republic was not only the largest true clipper ship ever constructed, it was the largest wooden merchant sailing ship in general. Various sources, including Charles F. Carroll’s article, “Wooden Ships and American Forests” in the Journal of Forest History, state that the monstrous vessel’s planking and ceiling materials, as well as her lower masts and bowsprit, consisted of white pine. Specifically, the four masts, the tallest of which towered 200 feet above the upper deck, incorporated Eastern White Pine from Maine. In all, the construction of Great Republic required 1,500,000 feet of white pine. Donald McKay, Shipbuilder
While Great Republic achieved her share of fame in the golden era of the tall ships, it was the Newburyport-built Dreadnought that inspired a standard for speed that all other shipbuilders and captains aspired to. Launched by Currier & Townsend in 1853, the Dreadnought was 212 feet long and displaced 1,414 tons. A transatlantic packet, she took an average of 19 days to voyage from New York to Liverpool, England. The return voyage, carrying immigrants and manufactured goods, took an average of 26 days. In one 10-day journey, from New York City to Liverpool, the Dreadnought set a record for crossing the Atlantic. Meeting a violent demise, she wrecked on the crags of Cape Horn in 1869. Captain P. N. Mayhew and the crew survived 14 days in open boats. There’s no question that the Dreadnought and Great Republic both beheld ornate and intricate figureheads. Figureheads were carved wooden decorative embodiments, often female or bestial, seen soaring from the prow of 16th through 19th century sailing ships. The figureheads embodied a vessel’s spirit and were expected to placate the gods of the sea, ensuring a safe voyage. For eras, nearly every ship’s prow consisted of a figurehead overlooking the approaching waves.
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Post-Colonial Newburyport: Shipbuilder’s Mecca
Returning to Donald Culross Peattie’s A Natural History of North American Trees, “More and more the New England sailing ships came to be decorated by the famous American wood carvers with figureheads of a very special sort of White Pine, so smooth and soft of grain that it could be cut with almost equal ease in any direction. The woodmen called it Pumpkin Pine, and they contrasted it with the coarser-grained Sapling Pine.” One instance in particular highlights the presence of Eastern White Pine in the carving of figureheads. The Nightingale, a world famous merchant ship and slave trader from Boston, carried a glorious figurehead representing a singing maiden named Jenny Lind. The Nightingale delivered American pioneers to the gold fields of Australia, ran the famous Tea Race from China to London, held some 2,000 slaves in irons, and served in the American Civil War. The Jenny Lind figurehead bore witness to it all. Revell Carr, former president for Connecticut’s Mystic Seaport Museum, was called upon to prove that the Jenny Lind was an American figurehead. His argument: “The wood identification report (Harry Alden Identification Service) is a good confirmation that this is an American piece. With the identification as Pinus Strobus (Eastern White Pine), and with that wood being the wood of choice for New England carvers, I think there is little doubt that this is American in origin. I believe we can dismiss the issue of Eastern White Pine having been shipped to England in abundance during colonial times for use as masts and that some of that wood might have been “re-cycled” into 19th century carvings. As Harry Alden says, if it was done, it would probably have been for small items, since it would have been difficult to get a large enough, undamaged piece for a figurehead.” /
The Great Republic, Designed by Donald McKay
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+ High Street, Newburyport: A Legacy of Mariners
Newburyport’s High Street mansions are a reminder of how the city originally prospered. The names of those who made and lost fortunes in the maritime trades are forever tied to the stately structures that line this glorious stretch of New England Americana. In 1917, Richard Arnold Fisher’s The White Pine Series of Architectural Monographs effectively described High Street’s allure:
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IN NEWBURY AND OLDTOWN AND THE OUTLYING PORTIONS OF NEWBURYPORT ARE NUMEROUS FARMHOUSES OF THE SIMPLE AND DIGNIFIED TYPE FOUND ALMOST EVERYWHERE IN NEW ENGLAND, BUT THE INDIVIDUAL CHARACTER OF NEWBURYPORT IS CHIEFLY GIVEN BY THE SQUARE THREE-STORIED “MANSION HOUSES,” OF WHICH SO MANY ARE FOUND IN THE HIGH STREET…. One passing through town is impressed by the large number of great…houses whose dignified aspect testifies to the prosperity and good taste of their builders of a hundred years ago and more.” High Street links the Atkinson Common (1893–1894) with the Bartlett Mall, site of the Essex County Superior Courthouse (1805). A pleasant stroll along High Street will reveal the LowellJohnson House and Jackson-Dexter House, both representing the three-storied Revolutionary War era mansions that typified colonial New England towns. Also along the way are the KnappPerry, Thomas Hale, and Emery houses, to name but a few. For roughly three miles, wellpreserved homes of estimable taste contain within them the fine species of wood that architects and builders of their day lovingly picked from area mills and lumberyards. Among the choice building materials, Eastern White Pine was evident in everything from structural elements and sheathing to finish trim and flooring. According to the article, “Living With Historic Softwood Flooring,” in Historic New England Magazine, “Historically, the most common flooring material in New England was
The Knapp-Perry House, from the Original 1917 White Pine Monograph 10
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High Street, Newburyport: A Legacy of Mariners
plain-sawn, random-width, facenailed, white pine boards, due to the ready supply of white pine in the region.” In regards to the use of Eastern White Pine in the Newburyport area, Benjamin Haavik, Team Leader, Property Care of Historic New England reports, “I can confirm that we do have Eastern White Pine in some of our first period houses…specifically the SpencerPeirce-Little Farm House…we have The Knapp-Perry House, 2010 pine as part of the structural portions of the Swett-Ilsley and Coffin Houses.” Haavik was kind enough to provide an Oxford Dendrochronology Laboratory Report outlining the tree-ring dating of oak and pine timbers from the Spencer-Peirce-Little House (1690). The Spencer-Peirce-Little house is the only 17th century stone house in New England to survive with its exterior walls intact, and there is evidence that white pine was used in various phases of its construction. Doctors D.W.H. Miles and Michael Worthington found the following results in their dendrochronology tests: “There were also a number of pine elements in the first phase of the house. In the eastern half of the cellar under the dining room, a good number of ceiling joists were found to be of slowgrowing pine, several with bark edge, and these were thought to be very suitable for dating. It was thought that these might be primary rather than replacements, if so, they could possibly date the building. Upstairs, ground-floor ceiling joists were exposed in the eastern room, the bottoms of wall panels where covered by a base board on the back stairs might be suitable, while in the attic a number of boards comprising roof sheathing had waney edge and could potentially cross-match with the cellar timbers. The western extension is thought to date to shortly after 1800 and also had a number of pine timbers available in the attic. The principal rafters were of boxed-heart hewn pine, small but with fairly tight rings. The common purlins and gable-end studs were also of pine, but sawn. These were of very slow-grown pine, and some retained the bark edge.” The motivation for testing the Eastern White Pine at the Spencer-Peirce-Little house came from the fact that white pine had previously been found in the main roof timbers of Newburyport’s Old South Church. One of the oldest wood frame churches still in use in New England, the Old South Church (1756) houses a bell cast by Paul Revere. “Following on with the success of the pilot study at Old South Presbyterian Church in Newburyport, the Massachusetts Historical Commission commissioned a further study of pine timbers at the Spencer-Peirce-Little House, with a primary objective to extend the pine chronology both further forward and back.” /
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+ Historic Newburyport: Beloved Destination
Over the years, Newburyport’s mansions hosted and housed numerous figures of considerable esteem. George Washington, John Quincy Adams, Paul Revere, H. P. Lovecraft, and Andre Dubus III all either resided or passed through the ever charming center of maritime and manufacturing pursuits. The original Newburyport-focused White Pine Monograph elegantly highlighted the essence of the city’s appeal from the point of view of one such visitor…
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Newburyport, although today manufacturing has taken the place of sea-borne commerce as its chief industry, is less changed than most other old towns of its importance, and one can easily form a good idea of how it must have looked in 1800 when Timothy Dwight, President of Yale College, visited it while on a tour through the New England states, after which he wrote:. ‘The houses, taken collectively, make a better appearance than those of any other town in New England. Many of them are particularly handsome. Their appendages, also, are unusually neat. Indeed, an air of wealth, taste and elegance is spread over this beautiful spot with cheerfulness and brilliancy to which I know no rival…Upon the whole, few places probably in the world furnish means of a delightful residence than Newburyport.’” More than two hundred years later, Newburyport remains a robust city of proud citizens who walk among mansions and structures that have stood a unique and historic test of time. At the heart of the city’s past and present is the Eastern White Pine that was traded, utilized, and expertly shaped into what ever struck maritime imagination. Today, Newburyport’s craftsmen and restoration experts stand ready to prove that properly maintained Eastern White Pine can, and will, last centuries. /
The “Lord” Timothy Dexter House, from the Original 1917 White Pine Monograph 12
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The “Lord” Timothy Dexter House, 2010
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CALL FOR SUBMISSIONS
Architects, Designers and Building Professionals
is looking for story ideas, articles, photos and feedback for our next issue to be published in Spring of 2011
What we’re looking for:
% Updates on projects or designs featured in the original White Pine Monographs 5 % Photos of modern uses of Eastern White Pine 5 % Techniques for building with Eastern White Pine 5 % Projects showcasing Eastern White Pine 5 % New and old homes with classic styling of Eastern White Pine 5 % Innovative uses of New England’s most historic wood 5 % Industry news pertaining to Eastern White Pine 5
Submit your story ideas, photos, thoughts, expressions or well-written articles to: monographs@EasternWhitePine.org
List of Eastern White Pine Mills of The Northeastern Lumber Manufacturers Association Hull Forest Products Beaulieu Brothers Lumber, Inc. Chester Forest Products Crobb Box Company Fontaine, Inc. Fraser Timber Limited Hammond Lumber Company Hammond, Thomas & Son Hancock Lumber Company, Inc. Haskell Lumber, Inc. Hunt, N.C., Inc. Irving Forest Products Kelly, P.M., Inc./Kelly Lumber Sales Lavalley Lumber Company, LLC Limington Lumber Company East Lovell Lumber Company, Inc. Lowell, R.E., Lumber, Inc. Maschino & Sons Lumber Company, Inc. Moose River Lumber Company, Inc. Pleasant River Lumber, Inc. Record Lumber, Inc. Robbins Lumber, Inc. Stratton Lumber, Inc. Cowls, W.D., Inc. North Robinson, W.R., Lumber Company, Inc. Bingham Lumber, Inc. Chocorua Valley Lumber Company Cote & Reney Lumber Company, Inc. DiPrizio Pine Sales Durgin & Crowell Lumber Company, Inc. H.G. Wood Industries, LLC King Forest Industries, Inc. Madison Lumber Mill, Inc. Milan Lumber Company, Inc. Patenaude Lumber Company, Inc. Precision Lumber, Inc. Seacoast Mills, Inc. HDK Wood Products Johnson Lumber Company Russin Lumber Corporation Ward Lumber Company, Inc. Brojack Lumber Kuhns Bros. Lumber Co., Inc. Britton Lumber Company, Inc. Cersosimo Lumber Company Cyr Lumber, Inc. Lamell Lumber Corp. Manchester Lumber M.B. Heath & Sons Lumber Company, Inc. Mill River Lumber Ltd. North Newman Lumber Company, Inc.
Pomfret Center,Connecticut Chapman, Maine Lincoln, Maine Hancock, Maine Eustis, Maine Ashland & Masardis, Maine Belgrade,Maine Hiram, Maine Bethel, Casco & Pittsfield, Maine Lincoln, Maine Jefferson, Maine Dixfield, Maine Ashland, Maine Sanford, Maine Baldwin, Maine Lovell, Maine Buckfield, Maine New Gloucester,Maine Jackman, Maine Dover-Foxcroft, Maine Oxford, Maine Searsmont, Maine Stratton, Maine Amherst, Massachusetts Wheelwright, Massachusetts Brookline, New Hampshire South Tamworth, New Hampshire Grantham, New Hampshire Middleton, New Hampshire New London, New Hampshire Bath, New Hampshire Wentworth, New Hampshire West Ossipee, New Hampshire Milan, New Hampshire Henniker, New Hampshire Wentworth, New Hampshire Brentwood, New Hampshire Harrisville, New York Carthage, New York Montgomery, New York Jay, New York Olyphant, Pennsylvania Lewisburg, Pennsylvania Fairlee, Vermont Brattleboro, Vermont Milton, Vermont Essex Junction, Vermont Johnson, Vermont North Hyde Park, Vermont Clarendon, Vermont Wells River, Vermont