The Revival of Lost Culture A

A girl enters a parlor to exit a queen. In my cousin’s case, the “Queen of Hearts,” as I coined her. Why? Her dress. It is the sanguine shades of black with gorgeous heart-hued blossoms. And they are not a deep crimson or the color of an unlucky sailor’s sky. Instead, they are bright, blaring, beautiful scarlet red—red flowers that bloomed on tenebrous ink, standing out like a planet in the night.

But what exactly makes this vibrant Maria Clara dress the work of art it is? For answers, I turned to its creator, Frankie De Leon. “There’s so much artistry in our traditional outfits,” says Frankie. It is a simple response, yet a meaningful one.

Frankie’s evolving story stemmed from weddings, an event significant to many couples worldwide. The ritual involves one of the most revered garments in fashion history: the iconic wedding dress. “I was invited to give a talk about fashion. I talked about Filipino weddings in Southeast Asian countries,” he recalls. “There was one guest who asked: ‘What is the traditional Filipino wedding attire?’ And I didn’t know how to answer.”

“We are the only country in Asia that doesn’t have a known wedding outfit. The Indonesians, and the Malay—they have special clothes. The Chinese have Cheongsam. Even in Korea, the mother of the bride will wear Hanbok. In Filipino weddings, the mother will not even wear Filipino sleeves,” Frankie confesses. “I was embarrassed when asked about wedding attire because I didn’t know what to say. I didn’t even know about our traditional clothing. And this started my journey.”

And so Frankie’s adventure began. First, he started utilizing traditional Filipino elements in his designs—from accessories and silhouettes to fabric. Then, finally, Frankie went Pinoy, and his clientele loved it. “I did a suit for Miss Universe in the Yakan style,” he quips. “Then I saw a video she posted on her Instagram account, and I could tell she loved it!”

The benefits of going Pinoy continue. Promoting Filipino craftsmanship also helps fellow Filipinos. “You help the indigenous people when you use their traditional fabrics. It supports them, their art, and their communities.”

Most importantly, Frankie’s creation helps the revival of a lost culture. “Why do we copy the Europeans? And why is it always a plunging neckline?” he asks. “People always look for modern, the white dress or what the Royals wore for their weddings. And then, there are ironic things I’ll see in fashion and in the latest trends. For example, I will see puffy sleeves, the type in our traditional dresses. That’s Filipino. It’s a surprise. I’ll think, ‘Wow, that’s Filipino!’ Why do we have to hide our traditions? They’re something to be proud of.”

“Back to weddings, I try to put a touch of Filipino in my wedding designs. I want people to feel the beauty of being Filipino, even in little ways. It’s very beautiful, very classic. For example, a man can wear a barong with beautiful sleeves. The purpose of being traditional is to show the beauty of being classic. It is timeless and wearable.”

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