Birding across the border

Birding across the border - where to watch birds in Varanger and the Murmansk Region

2016

Edited by Bjørn Frantzen, Morten Günther, Eugene Potorochin and Yuliya Solntseva Authors Bjørn Frantzen, Morten Günther, Eugene Potorochin, Sergey Dylyuk, Sergey Ganusevich, Elena Krasnova, Anders Faugstad Mæland, Øystein Hauge, Knut-Sverre Horn, Rob Barrett, Evgeniy Vishnevskiy, Ramziya Gaynanova and Yuliya Solntseva Maps Administration of nature protected areas of Murmansk Region: Ramziya Gaynanova and Evgeniy Vishnevskiy Layout and graphics Evgeniy Vishnevskiy and Yuliya Solntseva Translation Yuliya Zayka, Pavel Voytinskiy, Mariya Shubina

Published by NIBIO - Norwegian Institute of Bioeconomy Research Pb 115, NO-1431 Ås Phone: +47 406 04 100, www.nibio.no Publishing House "Yavr" (Entrepreneur Yuliya Solntseva), 184042, Russia, Murmansk Region, Kandalaksha, Gorky, 8A-39 Phone: +7 (963) 365 77 89, e-mail: solntseva_yulia@mail.ru Copyright © Norwegian Institute of Bioeconomy Research © Publishing House "Yavr" (Entrepreneur Yuliya Solntseva) Please refer to this book as: Frantzen, B., Günther, M., Potorochin, E. & Solntseva, Y. (Ed.). 2016. Birding across the border. Where to watch birds in Varanger and the Murmansk Region.

NIBIO Bok 2(2). 240 p.

NIBIO Bok Vol 2 nr. 2 2016 ISBN 978-82-17-01607-6 ISSN 2464-1189

Print: Lyubavich, St. Petersburg Cover photos Front: King Eider by Knut-Sverre Horn Back: Eurasian Oystercatcher by Dmitriy Voronov

Acknowledgements: A special thanks to the Norwegian Ministry of Climate and Environment for their financial support. Thank also to the Administration of nature protected areas of Murmansk Region for supporting the elaboration of routes to the Russian part.

Contents Foreword............................................................................................5 Birding – a popular outdoor activity..................................................7 Facts for visitors...............................................................................11 How to use this guide.......................................................................13 The Varanger area............................................................................16 Map of the Varanger area.................................................................17 1. Øvre Pasvik .................................................................................18 2. Skrøytnes .....................................................................................24 3. The Svanvik area .........................................................................28 4. Elvenes - Storskog .......................................................................32 5. Grense Jakobselv .........................................................................36 6. Prestøya .......................................................................................40 7. Neiden, Munkefjorden and Mikkelsnes ......................................44 8. Færdesmyra ................................................................................48 9. Varangerbotn ...............................................................................52 10. Nesseby church .........................................................................56 11. Vestre Jakobselv ........................................................................60 12. Vadsø .........................................................................................64 13. Store Ekkerøy ............................................................................68 14. Komagvær and Komagdalen Valley ..........................................72 15. Kiberg and Domen ....................................................................76 16. Vardø .........................................................................................80 17. Hornøya .....................................................................................84 18. The Hamningberg Road ............................................................88 19. Syltefjord ...................................................................................94 20. Båtsfjord ....................................................................................98 21. Kongsfjord - Veidnes ...............................................................102 22. Berlevåg ..................................................................................106 23. Kongsfjordfjellet and Båtsfjordfjellet ......................................110 24. The Tana River Delta ...............................................................114

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Contents The Murmansk Region ..............................................................................122 Map of the Murmansk Region ...................................................................123 1. The Paz River valley ..............................................................................124 2. The surroundings of Lake Kieshjavr .................................................128 3. Khibiny: Malaya Belaya River ..............................................................132 4. Lupche Islands area ................................................................................136 5. The Kanda River Valley .........................................................................140 6. Kutsa Regional Nature Reserve .............................................................144 7. Guba Voroniya of Kandalaksha Gulf ......................................................148 8. The surroundings of Velikaya Salma......................................................152 9. Luvenga Archipelago .............................................................................156 10. The Kolvitsa River ...............................................................................160 11. Iolgi-Tundry Mountains .......................................................................164 12. Poriy Les (Poriy Forest) .......................................................................168 13. Mys Korabl’ (Cape Boat) area .............................................................172 14. The mouth of Pulonga River ................................................................176 The Ponoy Depression ...............................................................................180 15. Ponoy River: Chalmny-Varre ...............................................................182 16. Ponoy River. Lake Makarovskoe route ................................................186 17. Colony of Broad-billed Sandpiper .......................................................190 Hard to access areas along the Barents and White Sea shores of the Kola Peninsula .................................................................................192 18. Sosnovka River area .............................................................................196 19. Guba Ivanovskaya ................................................................................200 20. Guba Dvorovaya ..................................................................................204 21. Teriberka Bay area ...............................................................................208 22. Gorodetsky bird colonies .....................................................................212 23. GubaVaida and Cape Kekursky ............................................................216 24. Guba Malaya Volokovaya ....................................................................220 25. Kola Bay ..............................................................................................224 Birdlist........................................................................................................229 Some useful terms.......................................................................................238 Literature....................................................................................................239

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Skrøytnes

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Myrbekkoia 78 117

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80

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87 87

Løken

* 51

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Svanvik

885

Svanhovd

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Gaivomyra Heiskarimyra Rapalampi

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111

105 86 * 94

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*

*

885

45

* 106

Mosemyra

* 105

Skrotnes Bordineset

Skrøytnesmyran Elvestad

Soleng

Stenbakk

* 108

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* Trilling85 * haugan

84*

Svanevatn

*58 Dalheim

57

79

10,5 km to Myrbekkoia Øverli

106

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Nittisekshøgda

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Siberian Tit © Bjørn Frantzen

At least 3-4 hours

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P Lille Skogøy

74

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a

83

elv

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0

0,5

1 Km

svi k

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Pa

The Skrøytnes area lies well outside the Pasvik Nature Reserve, and has today no special protection regarding future development. This is despite the fact that the area is probably one of the most interesting in the whole of Pasvik Valley. Here one finds several rare breeding species, such as Bean Goose, Broad-billed Sandpiper, Little Gull and Common Crane.

Monitoring in the area has shown that this is an extremely important resting and breeding ground for a number of wetland birds. So far more than 130 species of birds have been recorded in the area, and several of these are on the national red list of threatened species in Norway.

The area gives the impression in many ways of being a cross-section of Pasvik Valley. Here one can find most of the valley’s special bird species.

29 km2

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Chance observations and monitoring through several years have proved that the Skrøytnes area has a great potential as a bird locality, with regard to both number of birds and number of species. There are probably few, if any, places in Pasvik that can show a greater diversity of birds than this area in the centre of the valley.

Here there are many different types of habitat within a relatively limited area.

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TIMING The Skrøytnes area is easily accessible the whole year, but there are most birds to see from May to October when the Pasvik River is ice-free. On the river there is great activity immediately after the ice has gone, usually from the transition April-May. Whooper Swans, Bean Geese and various duck species gather here as soon as channels in the ice are accessible.

The Little Gull usually appears in mid-May. Displaying waders are most active in the transition May-June. Little Bunting and Arctic Warbler usually sing most actively from Midsummer Day and the following two weeks.

A visit in a night in June in the midnight sun can be highly recommended! Many bird species are more active at night. In addition there is then a greater chance of seeing mammals such as Brown Bear and Eurasian Elk (Moose). *

Melkefoss

Skrøytnes

SPECIES The Pasvik Valley is broad and forested with a character of wilderness and with many areas of wetland. Here we find a number of exotic species that are not found breeding at many other localities in Norway: Bean Goose, Smew, Broad-billed Sandpiper, Jack Snipe, Spotted Redshank, Great Grey Owl, Arctic Warbler and Little Bunting.

Whooper Swan, Common Crane and Short-eared Owl nest on several of the extensive bogs, and in the coniferous forest one can find species such as Hazel Grouse, Northern Hawk Owl, Three-toed Wood-pecker, Bohemian Waxwing, Siberian Tit and Siberian Jay. The Little Gull became established as a breeding species in this area in 1999.

The lush river banks along Svanevannet (Salmijärvi) are important stopover sites for ducks in both spring and autumn. Rare visitors such as Grey Heron, Pink-footed Goose, Barnacle Goose, Bar-headed Goose, Red-necked Grebe, Pomarine Skua, Ivory Gull, Common Swift, Blyth’s Reed Warbler, Redbacked Shrike and Ortolan Bunting have all been observed in the Skrøytnes area.

View from the bird tower at Skrøytnes © Morten Günther

ACCESS AND STRATEGY The Skrøytnes area is easily accessible by car. One gets the best view over the area by driving along the so-called Skrøytnes round and stopping at chosen sites on the way. The Skrøytnes round is about 18 km, and takes only about half an hour.

One should however allow at least half a day (or night) if one wishes to investigate the different localities.

The road along Skrøytnes can be a fine detour also for bird watchers who are on the way to or from Øvre Pasvik. This route is about 3 km longer than following road 885, but offers more birds, more varied nature and a view over to the Russian mining town of Nikel.

The Skrøytnes round starts at the road juncBird tower tion 2 km west of Svaat Skrøytnes nvik. Turn left at the © Morten Günther sign Skrøytnes” and follow the road along the Pasvik River. On returning to road 885 at Stenbakk, turn right at the sign “Kirkenes” in order to return to the starting point.

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Dalheim (69.4376N 29.9975E) After 1 km with forest on both sides of the road the terrain opens out. Check the open areas towards Skrøytnes for resting geese, waders, hunting Shorteared Owls and singing Sedge Warblers. The Lesser Spotted Woodpecker occurs in the birch woods down by the river.

Chaffinch and Yellowhammer have occasionally been found singing at the forest edges, and this is a possible area for Little Bunting.

Bordineset (69.4167N 29.9855E) After passing Skrøytnes the road curves to the right (3.9 km).

Park on the left side just before the bend, and follow the gravel track 400 metres down to Bordineset. From here there is a good view over the southern part of Svanvannet.

Dabbling ducks may often be hidden in the bank vegetation. It can therefore be a good strategy not to go the whole way down to the water. Check the surface for Black-throated Diver, Little Gull and flocks of ducks, including Smew. Both Osprey and White-tailed Eagle fish in this area, and Short-eared Owl and Sedge Warbler are common. A telescope is recommended.

Skrøytnesmyra (69.4233N 29.9438E) After 4.5 km the landscape opens where the road crosses the large bog Skrøytnesmyra. This area of bog is extensive and difficult to get a view over. The easiest is to scan the area from the road using a telescope. Common Crane, Little Gull, Wood Sandpiper and Whimbrel have all been found breeding on Skrøytnesmyra. Other interesting species seen regularly are White-tailed Eagle, Rough-legged Buzzard, Northern Harrier, Willow Ptarmigan, Short-eared Owl, Bar-tailed Godwit and Spotted Redshank. With a little luck one may have the

Female Pine Grosbeak © Bjørn Frantzen

chance of seeing one of the large mammals such as Eurasion Elk and Brown Bear on Skrøytnesmyra.

The bird tower at Lille Skogøy (69.4143N 29.9460E) In the centre of Skrøytnesmyra (5.8 km) there is a small parking place on the left side of the road. From here there is a path, partly of narrow foot bridges, about 350 m to an observation tower by the water’s edge. The tower gives a fine view over parts of Svanvannet and the small island Lille Skogøy (also called Mennikaholmen).

From May to August this is an important area for both ducks and waders. Check the mud banks, the bank vegetation and the lush Mennikabukta on the Russian side to the southeast. Here one can often see species such as Northern Shoveler, Smew, Bar-tailed Godwit and Little Gull. The Jack Snipe may be heard displaying over the tower. Watch also for birds flying overhead such as Bean Goose, White-tailed Eagle, Osprey, Common Crane and owls. A telescope and rubber boots are recommended.

Skrøytnes

Elvestad (69.4265N 29.8619E) Shortly before Elvestad (9.2 km) the road makes a 90-degree turn before opening out into an area of grass fields on both sides of the road. Whinchat has several times been seen along the road, and the Short-eared Owl often hunts over the open areas. This part of the river is good for birds and Smew are seen relatively often.

Melkefoss (69.4065N 29.7891E) After 10 km the road divides where it turns away from the river. If you wish to continue the round you should drive straight on. Alternatively you can make an extra detour by turning left towards Melkefoss. On the way you pass BIRK Husky, where there is a feeding site that attracts exciting species such as Siberian Tit, Siberian Jay and Pine Grosbeak. The Blue Tit, still a rare bird in Pasvik, is sometimes breeding here and it is often seen at the feeder.

Stenbakk (69.4260N 29.8434E) Just before Stenbakk (10.5 km) some fields are cultivated on the right side of the road. These should be checked for resting Bean Geese. Goldeneye and Smew have been found nesting in nest-boxes in this area. Øverli (69.4425N 29.8748E) After 12.8 km a forest road takes off to the left. This continues 16 km through the forest to a parking place at Lille Sameti. The road goes through a varied landscape of forest and bogs, and there are good possibilities of seeing species typical of the coniferous forest. At Myrbekkoia (10.5 km from Øverli) there is a bird feeding site and several nest-boxes.

Nittisekshøgda (69.4489N 29.9252E) The road to Nittisekshøgda takes off to the right at Pasvik racecourse (14.6 km). From the top there is a view over to the Russian mining town Nikel and the expanses of bogs to the south and east. Siberian Jay, Common Redstart and Three-toed Woodpecker are often seen in this area. Siberian Tit has nested in the wall of the tower. Check the areas of bogs with a telescope for resting geese and cranes.

Skrøytnes © Morten Günther

OTHER FLORA AND FAUNA Many mammal species have also been recorded near Skrøytnes, such as Eurasian Lynx, Eurasian Elk (Moose), Muskrat and Brown Bear. The Pasvik valley is actually a core area for the Brown Bear, and these may be met with in the period April to October. Domestic Reindeer is common in the area, especially during autumn and winter.

NEARBY FACILITIES Svanhovd (69.4542N 30.0396E) is a natural starting point for bird trips in the Pasvik Valley. Here one can gain information about the different protected areas and study the displays about nature and conservation.

Here one can also stay overnight.

BIRK Husky at Melkefoss (69.4074N 29.7956E) can also offer food and overnight stay. Here there is also a bird feeding site, a family path with nest boxes and an observation hide.

Remember that the Pasvik Valley is bear country.

Be careful if you meet a bear, especially if it has young or has found a carcase.

Kirkenes, 44 km north of Skrøytnes, has petrol stations, shops, hotels and a variety of other facilities.

The nearest airport is Kirkenes Høybuktmoen (KKN).

Groceries and petrol can also be bought at Svanvik, 6 km north of Skrøytnes.

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About the editors Bjørn Frantzen Bjørn Frantzen is a specialist in special needs education. He is also facilitating naturebased tourism. Bjørn is a keen birder with many years in arctic Norway, including Svalbard. He is also contributor to several books.

Yuliya Solntseva Yuliya Solntseva is a publisher and a journalist.

She is the author of guidebooks to the Murmansk region and Northern Karelia, as well as the author of a documentary about the work of ornithologists in the Kandalaksha Strict Nature Reserve.

Morten Günther Morten Günther is a biologist and communications advisor for NIBIO Norwegian Institute of Bioeconomy Research.

He is also bird guide, editor and contributor to several books and magazines.

Eugene Potorochin Eugene Potorochin is a biologist and a birdwatcher. He is the chief of the Scientific and Technical Department of the Administration of nature protected areas of Murmansk region. He is also participant of the scientific expeditions to the Kola Peninsula.