Revolutionizing sustainable botanical beauty

REVOLUTIONIZING SUSTAINABLE BOTANICAL BEAUTY THEMATIC SERIES N째3

OVERVIEW

ON THE ROAD TO RESPONSIBLE BEAUTY STANDING UP FOR SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY Consumer trends and demand for increasing naturalness are converging with growing awareness on issues such as sustainability, fairtrade and the protection of biodiversity. This is particularly relevant for natural beauty products, as many of the active raw ingredients are sourced directly from the wild. Looking at the sourcing and supplier side of the natural product equation thus raises legitimate questions concerning industry responsibility and practice on sustainability and biodiversity.

The global facial care market was worth nearly $120 billion in 20151, with the average American woman using around 12 personal care products a day2. In line with the continuing global shift towards naturalness, natural personal care products abound in specialized beauty stores, health food stores and on the shelves of supermarkets. In the UK, sales of certified organic health and beauty products rose by 21.6 percent over 2015, for a total of £54.2 million3.

Naysayers are quick to point out that harvesting huge amounts of raw materials from fragile eco-systems does much more harm to the planet than good for individual consumers. And the theory is not altogether wrong. Some of these issues are now being addressed through new protocols; changing the landscape for all actors in the natural personal care industry, with implications for those who do not respect natural resources.

And this is where personal care product manufacturers that position themselves within the natural market need to take strong action in favor of sustainability. Just because the end product is more natural, does not mean that the initial sourcing and production is sustainable, ethical or clean.

It’s up to the industry to play a more active role to ensure that biodiversity is maintained and that the natural product chain does more than keep the consumers’ beauty intact and the cash registers ringing – but also ensures the respect and renewal of Mother Nature’s myriad wealth and bounty.

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THE ONGOING BATTLE AGAINST NOXIOUS CHEMICALS AND PESTICIDES What natural products actually contain or deliver is not always that clear, with manufacturers’ brand proposals and consumer expectations often misaligned.

The generally fuzzy regulatory status on the whole natural question doesn’t always help consumers find their way either. Whether it is Big Food or Big Beauty, the overall consumer challenges remain the same: safe and healthy formulations; clear and clean labeling; and efficient, quality products.

Since the 1990’s, the use of many chemicals such as sulfates, parabens, formaldehyde, coal tar and lead has been heavily reduced in personal products, with consumer and health interest groups a driving force in encouraging industry in to remove chemicals and pollutants from formulations, and raw materials.

While this has resulted in advances to safer formulations, there is still a long way to go and consumer groups are not letting up. This is evidenced by continued serious challenges to the status quo, such as the Women in Europe for a Common Future’s examination of 341 ingredients found in baby care products, and call to ban three of them, and put restrictions on at least four more4.

And even when all the ingredient safety boxes are eventually ticked, there is a whole lot more to an optimal and sustainable natural personal care product than the lack of toxins.

OVERVIEW

A DEMAND FOR REGULATION

40%

OF NATURAL /ORGANIC PERSONAL CARE CONSUMERS WISH THERE WERE STRICTER REGULATIONS5

GETTING REAL BEAUTY BANG FOR THE NATURAL BUCK Another consumer question is efficiency. Natural and organic personal care products often project a softer ‘non-scientific’ image, and while consumers don’t want chemically laced products, they do want the more natural formulations to work just as well.

They want to feel confident that there will be palpable results: diminished wrinkles, smoother skin, shinier or thicker hair, reduced perspiration...

A health halo is good, but if a purported anti-aging moisturizer is not proven to prevent or reduce wrinkles, then a strong and honest story of results is hard to tell… or sell. This becomes all the more relevant for the smaller natural ranges and organic sectors as the products can be perceived as more expensive than their more ‘industrial’ cousins. Consumers may thus stay loyal to a perhaps cheaper, yet what is perceived as a ‘scientifically-proven’ product, whether it is actually natural or not.

Natural and organic products require stronger rigor to test and demonstrate the efficacy of active ingredients, followed by clear communication to help consumers make the jump, and build new brand loyalties.

A DEMAND FOR REASSURANCE

31%

OF NATURAL /ORGANIC PERSONAL CARE CONSUMERS WANT REASSURANCE ON NATURAL CLAIMS5

A DEMAND FOR CLARITY

45%

OF NATURAL /ORGANIC PERSONAL CARE CONSUMERS WANT MORE CLARITY ON WHICH PRODUCTS ARE NATURAL5

?

??

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OVERVIEW

MEETING THE CONSCIOUS CONSUMERS’ EXPECTATIONS There is a growing group of consumers that pays particular attention to natural and organic products in general, and they demand more than the natural shopper focused on their own personal health and wellbeing. This is the environmentally focused shopper who is interested in the whole world’s health and wellbeing.

This consumer wants their purchased products to be sustainably sourced and manufactured, and proof of respect for Mother Nature, the earth’s natural resources and all the people involved in growing and processing the products. While few people doubt that natural products are better for personal health, it does not necessarily mean that they are good for the planet.

Even 100% organic does not mean sustainable.

If inordinate amounts of water are used to grow or process the source plants, if traditional producers are exploited or if manufacturing staff health is put at risk by chemicals in the processing techniques, then the ‘natural’ benefits are more than mitigated. In such scenarios, the end consumer is probably benefitting but not necessarily the source country’s biodiversity or local populations.

US CONSUMERS, MINDFUL OF THE ENVIRONMENT

32%

TRY TO MAKE LIFESTYLE CHANGES TO BENEFIT THE ENVIRONMENT6

ENVIRONMENT: ONE OF THE MAIN CONCERNS FOR NATURAL/ORGANIC PERSONAL CARE CONSUMERS

43%

BUY NATURAL OR ORGANIC PRODUCTS

BECAUSE THEY’RE BETTER FOR THE ENVIRONMENT7

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WALKING THE ECO-RESPONSIBLE TALK Sustainability The use of biological components and natural resources in ways and rates that do not lead to their long term decline or degradation. Thus maintaining the earth’s potential to meet the needs and aspirations of present and future generations Growing global awareness, along with new legal frameworks and protocols are converging on sustainability, particularly in regard to the environment and the rights of indigenous peoples. A few examples that are driving evolution in raw material resourcing and manufacturing practices: The Nagoya Protocol The Nagoya Protocol was adopted in Japan in 2010, as a supplementary agreement to the Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD). This Protocol, which entered into force in October 2014, aims to provide clear and uniform guidelines for countries, to implement aligned domestic regulations on the sustainable use of biodiversity. In February 2016, 72 countries (or “Parties” ) had ratified the Nagoya Protocol and many others will follow suit in the near future.

These guidelines involve creating practical procedures to respect of sovereign rights of people and countries and their genetic resources (botanical, animal or microorganisms). They also aim to prevent biopiracy, i.e. illegitimate appropriation and exploitation of living resources.

The Nagoya Protocol introduces three key concepts: • The “Providers” (individuals, indigenous communities, etc.)

• The “Users” (industries, research centers etc) • The notion of “Access and Benefit Sharing” (ABS) In a nutshell, every potential user must ensure that no genetic resource or traditional knowledge is used without prior informed consent of the provider. Once informed consent has been obtained from the provider, the user must guarantee a fair and equitable sharing of the arising benefits, through legal mutually agreed terms.

OVERVIEW The Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT)

In practice, local ABS frameworks have been emerging for the last 15 years, especially in biodiversity-rich countries such as Brazil, India or South Africa. These frameworks have changed the rules, especially for companies looking to innovate through new biodiversity discoveries. When starting work on a project that will be based on a genetic resource or a local traditional knowledge, private companies shall take into consideration compliance obligations for each specific situation (access permits for example) and when appropriate, take measures to insure fair return of added-value, on a monetary or non-monetary basis (i.e. competence transfer, actions for better living conditions of locals, etc.)

As of today, the worldwide level of translation of the Protocol guidelines into legal ABS-related procedures remains quite uneven, as many “pre-Nagoya” local frameworks are currently undergoing revisions.

Specific investigations are usually required to identify relevant compliance provisions and work out the best implementation practices.

The United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD) created the BioTrade Initiative in 1996 to support sustainable development through trade and investment in biodiversity. In 2007, the Union for Ethical Bio Trade (UEBT) was established as a spin off from the UN to promote business engagement in BioTrade. UEBT also works together with the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) to facilitate the sustainable use of CITES listed species by business.

UEBT offers independent verification, technical support and networking opportunities to members for biodiversity-based innovation and sourcing, and the members commit to bringing their practices in line with Ethical BioTrade principles. UNCTAD developed the guiding principles and criteria for BioTrade that form the basis of UEBT’s verification framework8.

GLOBAL AWARENESS IN 2015

IN 9 DIFFERENT COUNTRIES9

69%

Behind what could appear as a complex and nonmature mechanism - which will take time to be accepted and applied - stands a clear necessity to reinforce the industry’s ethics and responsibility. It’s no secret that more and more species become extinct every day and the industry must make sure that future innovative projects respect the principles for sustainable use of biodiversity.

Natural ingredient suppliers will be playing a pivotal role in this global challenge.

HAD HEARD ABOUT BIODIVERSITY

84%

HAD HEARD ABOUT SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT

$

86%

HAD HEARD ABOUT FAIRTRADE

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FOCUS

TECHNOLOGY SUCCEEDS IN UNVEILING MORE OF NATURE’S SECRETS The good news for environmentally conscious consumers and personal care brands is that technology innovations are also enabling the emergence of both more efficient natural products and improved sustainability.

BIOMIMETICS: LOOKING FOR SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS FROM NATURE Humans have always been inspired by nature but it was during the Renaissance period that Leonardo da Vinci documented some of the first and most famous examples of biomimicry – observing nature to emulate or mimic a particular biological function or characteristic for a manmade application. Studying the anatomy and flight of birds, he devised design prototypes for ‘flying machines,’ as did the Wright brothers to design and build the first actual airplane in 1903.

Biomimicry is an established scientific domain, with resulting innovations applied to architecture, medicine, engineering, robotics and locomotion. There are strong applications in the robotics and engineering sectors to mimic locomotion and handling methods of animals in different environments such as rocky deserts, in the air or under water.

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Biomimetics has been taken a step further in recent decades and has been adopted by proponents of sustainability. The natural world in all its intricate biodiversity works as a perfect example of sustainability, inter connected harmony and regeneration. Following billions of years of evolution and survival problem-solving, nature holds solutions for many of humanity’s problems and biomimicry is a key to discovery.

Today biomimetic research and development is applied in the areas of renewable energy, sustainable architecture and city planning, transportation and agriculture 10, and now, to botanicals for cosmetic applications.

MIMICKING NATURE FOR TECHNOLOGICAL INNOVATION11 NATURE

MANMADE

Burrs that stick to fur or hair

Velcro hook & loop fastening tape

Octopus tentacles and suction pads

Surgical robot with flexible and stretchable arms

Lotus leaves that stay perfectly clean despite growing in muddy waters

A paint for self-cleaning surfaces

Liquids in plants that preserve the plant’s cell functions

Eco-extraction of active natural properties for cosmetic applications

FOCUS

FROM LEAF VEINS TO SKIN

NaDES: FROM LEAF TO SKIN NaDES carry the active molecules synthetized at the heart of the plant cell while perfectly preserving their integrity. Since all the active ingredients are preserved, cosmetics obtained through eutectigenesis result in an augmented benefit for the skin.

SOURCING NaDES: INNOVATIVE NATURAL SOLVENTS TO ACCESS BOTANICAL ACTIVES

In nature, NaDES circulate within the plant. Composed of osmolytes, NaDES capture the most active and precious metabolites of the plant

Most active plant molecules are synthesized at the heart of the plant cell, but some of these are neither water nor lipid soluble, and so not attainable by current solvents.

In fact, plants can also store and transport these molecules in a third type of liquid, known as Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NaDES). The discovery of NaDES in plants is a revolution for the cosmetic industry.

Using these totally natural solvents for extraction ensures that the most precious plant metabolites are captured, mimicking the survival mechanisms of the plant.

In nature, these NaDES could protect and preserve the integrity of the plant’s cells and germination mechanisms under extreme conditions such as drought, and very high or low temperatures. Under such conditions, living cells may well survive by forming a NaDES in which the last traces of water are strongly retained.

CONVERTING Naturex uses NaDES-based technology to provide biomimetic botanicals with augmented phytochemical profiles (EutectysTM)

DELIVERING On the skin, EutectysTM actives deliver a higher level of biological activity

x17 x5 91%

Olive leaf anti-wrinkle properties increase Horsetail calming properties increase Saffron flower anti-aging properties increase of +

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FOCUS

ECO-EXTRACTION PROCESS FOR NADES A patented eco-extraction process, called Eutectigenesis will enable this, to deliver a totally new generation of botanical liquid extracts for the cosmetics market.

NATURALLY NADES NaDES exist in other plant sources, such as flower nectar or maple sap, which is then concentrated to become maple syrup. Experiments confirmed that maple sap’s individual components were solid at room temperature. And yet, this precise combination of the compounds remained liquid, even after all the plant’s water had evaporated, unveiling a new kind of solvent12.

An added bonus, extracts obtained through NaDES are biodegradable, nonvolatile, low toxicity solvents and more environmentally friendly solvents.

Eutectigenesis consists of extracting the active secondary metabolites of the plant through the formation of a eutectic liquid between the plant’s primary metabolites. That is – a mixture of substances (in fixed proportions) that melts at a single temperature which is lower than the melting points of the separate constituents.

Efficient and environmentally friendly, in a relative comparison, the eutectigenesis extraction process takes half the time to complete compared to traditional solvents, and uses between 60-85 percent less energy.

EUTECTIGENESIS ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT THERMIC ENERGY (KWH)

WATER

(M3)

ELECTRIC ENERGY (KWH)

COV EMISSIONS

MP/PF RATIO

(KG MP/KG PF)

EUTECTIGENESIS

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CONVENTIONAL EXTRACTION

FOCUS

AUGMENTED AND PREVIOUSLY UNDISCOVERED ACTIVE PROPERTIES From a quality source botanical material, and with the appropriate NaDES, eutectigenesis delivers clean, rich and more powerful active extracts, which are measured and documented through testing.

Not only does eutectigenesis result in proven higher concentrations of some plant’s active properties, but in other cases it has also unveiled previously nondiscovered properties.

For instance, the saffron flower already has proven and measurable anti-aging properties, but through the eutectigenesis extraction, a benefit on a radiance/ whitening property was discovered during in vitro testing. For cherry blossom, eutectigenesis extraction reveals some activity against photoaging.

BOTANICAL SOURCE

PROVEN ACTIVE PROPERTY

INCREASED PROPERTIES WITH EUTECTIGENESIS EXTRACTION

Olive leaf (oleuropein)

Anti-wrinkle

x 17 (collagen synthesis)

Horsetail (phenolic acids)

Calming

x 5 (TNF α inhibition)

Saffron flower (flavonoids)

Anti-aging

+ 91% (inhibition of MMP-1)

Anti-photoaging

x 21 collagen synthesis - 32% / - 41% Antioxidant property (DJ-1/Nrf2) + 36% / + 41% Improvement of barrier function (ZO-1/loricrin)

Cherry blossom (phenolic acids)

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SOLUTIONS

BOTANICALS AT THE FOREFRONT OF RESPONSIBLE BEAUTY THE VERSATILE AND POWERFUL OLIVE TREE The olive tree has been cultivated across the Mediterranean for thousands of years. Depending on the variety, maturity and processing technique, the olive and its oil contain varying amounts of ‘good’ monounsaturated fatty acids, sources of omegas 3 and 6. Olives are also a unique source of antioxidant and anti-inflammatory phytonutrients such as oleuropein, flavonoids, and Vitamins A and K13.

THE EXCEPTIONAL ACTIVE PROPERTIES OF THE OLIVE LEAF Used in traditional and herbal medicines of yore, the silvery olive leaf boasts many active properties, particularly through its high concentration of oleuropein. Within health care today, the olive leaf supports cardiovascular health, has anti-viral and anti-bacterial properties and helps inhibit diabetic complications.

On the beauty front, the NaDES-based olive leaf extract has active properties for both facial and hair care, is sustainably sourced, Nagoya compliant and Ecocert approved.

• Beauty properties include anti-wrinkle, regenerating, firming and photo protection.

• Its titration in oleuropein is shown to have increased by 400% thanks to eutectigenesis extraction; with 17 times greater collagen synthesis than a standard olive leaf extract; and a greater ability to protect against sunlight.

• The extract is easy to formulate and suitable for all aqueous systems and emulsions.

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SOLUTIONS

ENSURING THE PATH TO SUSTAINABLE AND ETHICAL RAW MATERIAL SOURCING One of the most important aspects of a sustainable, natural end product is the path that the ingredients take from nature to product. Ingredient suppliers need to be armed with the tools and skills to assess and meet sustainability compliancy according to national laws and multi-lateral protocols.

Raw materials also follow a sustainability assessment to respect biodiversity and traceability (Pathfinder compliancy).

Our key sustainability assessment criteria for raw material sourcing: • No endangered species • Absence of banned pesticides • Respect of human rights: non-discriminatory • Respect of work regulations: no child labor, ethical wages • Moral financial transactions • Traceability

In the case of olive leaf, in addition to the above criteria: • Trees are pruned every two years from November to April, as part of the tree’s normal life-cycle.

• A by-product of olive/olive oil production, olive leaves provide extra income for local farmers.

• Local suppliers follow good agricultural practices and leaves are naturally sun-dried by the collectors.

FROM RESEARCH TO CONSUMERS: EUTECTYSERUM The Eutectyserum product was especially developed to showcase the properties and possibilities for an innovative Eutectys™ liquid extract that responds to current market trends, which project anti-agers (27%) and face moisturizers (35%) as the most important face care segments over the coming years14.

• For mature skin that requires a perfect balance between high anti-aging performance, sensoriality and a respectful, green formulation.

• Olive leaf Eutectys™ BG promotes collagen synthesis, actively fighting wrinkles and facial volume loss. It also improves skin resistance and skin elasticity and suppleness.

• The active is extracted by Eutectigenesis, the breakthrough patented process that mimics the intracellular environment of the plant core to capture its most precious metabolites and augment their activity.

Proven in vitro.

• An amazing texture is created thanks to the new NaDES (Eutectys™) solvent, recently discovered in the plant core, which is neither hydrophilic nor lipophilic.

• A true super-serum, Eutectyserum has the same active properties, providing all the sensorial appeal and comfort of oil…without a single drop of oil in the formula!

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SUMMARY

KEY INFORMATION AT A GLANCE

$120

GLOBAL FACIAL CARE MARKET WAS WORTH

57%

THE AVERAGE AMERICAN WOMAN

billion in 2015

OF NATURAL/ ORGANIC PERSONAL CARE CONSUMERS

USES 12 PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS A DAY

DO IT FOR THEIR HEALTH

55%

40%

DO IT FOR A BETTER EFFICIENCY

OF NATURAL /ORGANIC PERSONAL CARE CONSUMERS WISH THERE WERE STRICTER REGULATIONS

192

SIGNED THE CONVENTION ON BIOLOGICAL DIVERSITY

COUNTRIES AND TERRITORIES

AND USES BETWEEN

EUTECTIGENESIS EXTRACTION TAKES

60/85% LESS ENERGY

HALF THE TIME TO COMPLETE COMPARED TO OTHER TRADITIONAL SOLVENTS,

OLIVE LEAF’S ANTI-WRINKLE

HORSETAIL’S CALMING

X 17

X5

PROPERTY INCREASES

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WITH EUTECTIGENESIS EXTRACTION

PROPERTY INCREASES WITH EUTECTIGENESIS EXTRACTION

SOURCES 1 Euromonitor international, 2014 2 Safe Cosmetics, retrieved February 2016, available at www.safecosmetics.org 3 Global cosmetic news, UK sales of organic health and beauty products up 21.6 percent, says Soil Association, February 2016, available at https://globalcosmeticsnews. com/europe/2390/uk-sales-of-organic-health-andbeauty-products-up-21-6-percent-says-soil-association 4 Cosmetics Business, Safety of ingredients in baby care products questioned, February 2016, available at http://www.cosmeticsbusiness.com/news/article_page/ Safety_of_ingredients_in_baby_care_products_ questioned/115750 5 Mintel, Reviewing personal care’s “natural” factor 20092013, December 2013 6 Mintel, Reviewing personal care’s “natural” factor 20092013, December 2013 7 Mintel, Reviewing personal care’s “natural” factor 20092013, December 2013 8 Union for Ethical biotrade, retrieved February 2016, available at http://ethicalbiotrade.org/ 9 UEBT, Natural Diversity Barometer 2009-2015, 2016 available at http://ethicalbiotrade.org/biodiversitybarometer/ 10 Biomimicry Institute, retrieved February 2016, available at https://biomimicry.org/biomimicry-examples/#.VuLJOanDe4 11 Bloomberg, 14 Smart Inventions Inspired by Nature: Biomimicry, August 2016, available at http://www. bloomberg.com/slideshow/2013-08-18/14-smartinventions-inspired-by-nature-biomimicry.html#slide15 12 American Society of Plant Biologists, June 2011, Are Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents the Missing Link in Understanding Cellular Metabolism and Physiology?, available at http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/ PMC3149944/

Design & supervision: Havas / writing: Mensquare / pictures: Shutterstock.

Non-contractual pictures and illustrations.

13 International Olive Council, retrieved February 2016, available at http://www.internationaloliveoil.org/ and United States Department of Agriculture, retrieved February 2016, available at https://ndb.nal.usda.gov/ndb/ foods?qlookup=olives 14 Euromonitor international, 2014

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Nature has the capacity to reveal the beauty in each of us and we know how to capture this natural power at its source. We identify and formulate the most effective plant-based ingredients for tomorrow’s cosmetics and are committed to making a positive impact on the environment.

Your Personal Care team.

For more information, please contact : Email: naturex@naturex.com Phone: +33 (0)4 90 23 96 89 | Fax: +33 (0)4 90 23 73 40 Naturex SA - 250 rue Pierre Bayle - BP 81218 84911 AVIGNON cedex 9 - FRANCE www.naturex.com

FROM NATURE TO YOU