Natural horizons for nutricosmetics

SHIFT TO NATURAL

NATURAL HORIZONS FOR NUTRICOSMETICS THEMATIC SERIES

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NATURAL HORIZONS FOR NUTRICOSMETICS

OVERVIEW

NUTRICOSMETICS COME OF AGE Nutricosmetics are ingestible beauty products – food, drink and supplements – that promote healthy skin, nails and hair. Modern nutricosmetics have been around since the 1990’s, but natural ‘beauty from within’ has been an integral part of traditional beauty regimes and rituals for centuries. Industry is now able to extract, process and deliver a wide range of proven and naturally active botanical ingredients for today’s consumers who are looking for natural ways to address specific health & beauty concerns, and recognize that beauty begins within.

All the more so as the selfcare market shows an increasing interest in naturality issues.

ASIA LEADS THE BEAUTY FROM WITHIN WAY Nutricosmetics were first developed in Japan, where women of all ages are traditionally attentive to preventive skincare. One of the star ingredients has been collagen, which is vital for skin elasticity and renewal, providing structure, shape and strength to skin. Collagen production is impacted by sun, nutrition, skin damage, and toxins and slows with age, all of which results in the physical signs of skin aging: wrinkles, dryness and sagging.

BEYOND COLLAGEN TO BOTANICAL ANTIOXIDANTS AND NUTRIENTS While collagen continues strongly, new trends are emerging for fruit & plant extracts and vitamins as nutricosmetic ingredients – in particular botanical antioxidants. Oxidative stress can be generated by a variety of factors, including cigarette smoke, extreme temperature change and exposure to UV radiation, and as part of the natural aging process.

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One process to delay the subsequent photoaging is the use of agents capable of ameliorating the adverse effects of UV-B on the skin. Studies indicate that many botanical agents with antioxidant properties, such as green tea extract and resveratrol can exert anti-inflammatory and anti-photoaging effects on the skin when ingested.(6) As for vitamins and minerals, the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) has authorized a number of health claims related to hair, skin or nail benefits for copper, iodine, zinc, selenium, biotin, niacin, riboflavin, and vitamins A and C. The nutricosmetics of tomorrow will bring together food, drink and dietary supplements that are botanically sourced to deliver natural, delicious, nutritive and visible beauty benefits.

GLOBAL NUTRICOSMETICS MARKET(1)

2015 REVENUES

330

MUSD

+21%

2019 REVENUES

400

MUSD

NATURAL HORIZONS FOR NUTRICOSMETICS

OVERVIEW

COSMETICS, HEALTH & NUTRITION(5)

COSMECEUTICALS COSMETICS & HEALTH

TOPICAL COSMETIC PRODUCTS THAT CLAIM TO HAVE MEDICINAL, DRUGLIKE OR PHARMACEUTICAL BENEFIT.

NUTRACEUTICALS NUTRITION & HEALTH A DIETARY SUPPLEMENT/ FOOD/ BEVERAGE THAT PROVIDES HEALTH BENEFITS, INCLUDING PREVENTION AND/OR TREATMENT IN A WAY SIMILAR TO PHARMACEUTICAL AGENTS.

NUTRICOSMETICS(5) NUTRITION & COSMETICS

INGESTIBLE PRODUCTS THAT ARE FORMULATED AND MARKETED SPECIFICALLY FOR BEAUTY PURPOSES. TYPICALLY IN TABLET, POWDER, FOOD OR LIQUID FORMATS

BIOLOGICAL ACTIONS OF NUTRICOSMETICS ON SKIN WHICH INGREDIENT FOR WHICH PURPOSE?

ANTI-AGING SKIN PROTECTION SKIN MICRONUTRITION

SUN CARE MOISTURIZING

FATTY ACIDS, PROBIOTICS, PHYTO-CERAMIDES, HYDRATE UNSATURATED HYALURONIC ACID, COENZYME Q10 CAROTENOIDS, VITAMINS C, E, PHYTOESTROGENS, PROTECT FLAVONOIDS, PRE-PRO BIOTICS

REPAIR VITAMIN C, COLLAGEN PEPTIDES, IRON, COPPER, ZINC, BORON

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NATURAL HORIZONS FOR NUTRICOSMETICS

OVERVIEW

AROUND THE WORLD WITH NUTRICOSMETICS Consumers are leaning more and more towards beauty supplements worldwide. Nutricosmetic supplements in France, beverages as in China, with new markets on the horizon for cosmetically functional foods too.(3) PER TYPE

CONSUMER INSIGHTS

JAPAN

FRANCE

70%

OF THE TOTAL FOOD & DRINK PRODUCTS LAUNCHED WITH A BEAUTY CLAIM WERE IN THE ASIA PACIFIC REGION(2)

62%

OF FRENCH FEMALE CONSUMERS AGREE THAT HYDRATING SKIN FROM THE INSIDE IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN MOISTURIZING(2)

63% CHINA

BRAZIL

OF CHINESE FEMALE CONSUMERS AGED 20-49 WHO HAVE USED FACIAL SKINCARE PRODUCTS HAVE ALSO USED FOOD THERAPY TO ENHANCE THEIR SKIN CONDITION(2)

14%

OF BRAZILIAN BODY CARE USERS WORRY ABOUT THE EFFECTS OF THEIR LIFESTYLE ON THEIR BODY SKIN(4)

64% USA

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OF US VITAMIN, MINERAL AND SUPPLEMENT CONSUMERS HAVE USED OR WOULD BE INTERESTED IN USING VMS THAT REDUCE THE APPEARANCE OF WRINKLES(2)

70%

30%

84%

16%

28%

72%

74%

26%

84%

16%

DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS

DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS

DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS

DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS

DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS

FUNCTIONAL BEVERAGES

FUNCTIONAL BEVERAGES

FUNCTIONAL BEVERAGES

FUNCTIONAL BEVERAGES

FUNCTIONAL BEVERAGES

NATURAL HORIZONS FOR NUTRICOSMETICS

OVERVIEW

PER BEAUTY BENEFIT

MARKET OPPORTUNITIES

SKINCARE :

62%

GENERAL BEAUTY :

SKINCARE :

80%

NAIL HAIR :

SKINCARE :

39%

GENERAL BEAUTY :

SKINCARE :

75%

NAILL HAIR :

SKINCARE :

29%

NAIL HAIR SKIN :

37%

17%

61%

18%

52%

BEAUTY ANTI-AGING HYDRATION

ANTI-AGING BEAUTY SUN CARE

WHITENING HYDRATION BEAUTY

FIRMNESS ANTI-AGING BEAUTY

ANTI-AGING HYDRATION SUN CARE

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NATURAL HORIZONS FOR NUTRICOSMETICS

FOCUS

RISING BOTANICAL NUTRICOSMETIC STARS GREEN TEA Green tea has been grown in China for thousands of years from the Camellia Sinesis plant, with each type (black, white, oolong, green) the result of different cultivars, agricultural and processing conditions. Green tea is not oxidized, thus preserving its active properties and aromas. In traditional Chinese and Indian medicine, green tea is used as a stimulant, a diuretic, an astringent and to improve heart health, to help regulate blood sugar, promote digestion and support weight management.(7)

Anti-aging and beauty benefits The polyphenols in green tea provide anti-inflammatory effects. Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) is a bioactive polyphenol that is effective against the free radicals which cause cell damage.(7) These anti-inflammatory benefits also positively impact skin protection and repair when green tea is ingested.

Studies of the effects of oral administration of green tea polyphenols found that UVB-induced DNA damage was more rapidly resolved. This suggests that routine consumption of such polyphenols may provide efficient protection and repair against the harmful effects the sun.(8)

From Zen to lasting beauty

Pathways to premium ingredients

An active found in green tea - L-theanine crosses the blood-brain barrier and can help to produce a feeling of relaxation by increasing levels of serotonin and dopamine - contributing to the reduction of free radicals provoked by stress - a factor which contributes to premature aging.(9)

To gain the full benefits of green tea’s polyphenols, both agricultural practices and formulation are key.(10) A quality raw material naturally relies on being grown in the most sustainable, ecological and ethical conditions without chemical use. For example, green tea grown on the majestically pristine mountain sides of the Sichuan region - said to be the place from which tea originated some 1,000 years ago - is cultivated without pesticides or agritoxins.

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NATURAL HORIZONS FOR NUTRICOSMETICS

FOCUS

Giving back locally and environmentally Naturally dried green tea leaves are processed in a local facility, reducing the carbon footprint and supporting local industry. Local growers and government are guaranteeing the sustainability of the surrounding ecosystem with more than 350,000 trees replanted over the 15 years. The green tea activity benefits local populations with support for housing and education close to the plantations.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu7Jk8lLUdE

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NATURAL HORIZONS FOR NUTRICOSMETICS

FOCUS

RISING BOTANICAL NUTRICOSMETIC STARS POMEGRANATE The pomegranate (Punica granatum) is an ancient food, going back some 4,000 years.

Native to Iran and India but now cultivated across the world, it contains higher levels of antioxidants than other fruit juices and red wine.(11) Rich in essential amino acids; vitamins C, K, iron, potassium and folate, the pomegranate is the original superfood. The tree bark and rind are known for their richness in polyphenols, while the fruit and juice are prized for their high vitamin and mineral content.

UV protection from within A 2010 study proved the photo-protective effect of pomegranate fruit extract in mice after 80 sessions of exposition to UV-A, which represents 95% of the sun’s rays. The group fed with pomegranate displayed 97 percent less skin lesions.(12) This indicates that pomegranate is a good candidate for pre and post sun care, and skin repair nutricosmetics.

An antioxidant powerhouse The pomegranate is rich in tannins which contain other antioxidant polyphenols such as anthocyanins and ellagic acid. Anti-inflammatory compounds are also found, including punicic acid, which is known to inhibit certain inflammatory effects in the body,(11) presenting new possibilities for preventive and reparative skincare nutricosmetics.

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NATURAL HORIZONS FOR NUTRICOSMETICS

FOCUS

BIRCH SAP Birch sap is a traditional beverage in many Northern European and Baltic countries.

As a fresh drink, medicinally, as a nutritional supplement or for skin and hair cosmetics, Birch sap is tapped by hand, most commonly from the organic Betula Pendula or Silver Birch.(13)

A fresh burst of micronutrients Birch sap is highly nutrient-rich while being low-calorie and low-sugar. 100g of birch water extract provides 15% of the recommended daily allowance of Calcium and Magnesium, and 30% of Zinc, Iron and Manganese.

Traditionally recognized properties Birch sap is said to possess detoxifying powers - helping the body flush out harmful toxins, thus promoting skin repair. The combined detoxifying, anti-inflammatory and fortifying properties are traditionally recognized as contributing to healthy skin from within.

Adaptability and modernity Birch water is trending around the world and gentle processing techniques can now extend its shelf-life, while retaining all the goodness. Available in powder and concentrated forms, this modern birch sap is easier to formulate for new applications. Birch sap also benefits from a fairly neutral taste, so is easy to combine with other flavor profiles.

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NATURAL HORIZONS FOR NUTRICOSMETICS

SOLUTION

THE BEAUTY OF BOTANICAL NUTRICOSMETICS Botanical nutricosmetic formulations and products offer unique pathways to deliver totally natural bursts of delicious nutrition to support the body’s own skin protection and regeneration structures and systems. So much more than a supplement or powder blend addition, botanical ingredients open the way for myriad nutricosmetic formulations, such as beauty sweets, drinks, desserts or snacks. Why not green tea infused birch water for a skin detox, or an anti-aging pomegranate enriched oat bar… and how about a 100% natural fruity drink mix that helps protect the skin from the sun?

For trendier and tastier ‘functional markets’, high quality natural ingredients bring together flavor indulgence and beauty benefit in a single bottle or pack.

DISCOVER BEAUTEA SUN PROTECT: POWERFULLY DELICIOUS SKINCARE Photoprotection and skin micronutrition with green tea, acerola and rosemary leaf UV damage is recognized as one of the key contributing factors in premature skin aging.

Mechanisms do already exist within the body to block or minimize the damage caused by UV rays,

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such as the melanin barrier. However, research shows that many of body’s inbuilt systems can be further strengthened by certain naturally occurring micronutrients.(6) Targeting women who want to maintain youthful-looking skin by blocking sun-UV damage, Naturex has developed Beautea Sun Protect a delicious, trendy and all natural low calorie instant drink.This beverage fits the dietary market requirements but can be adapted to the functional food market.

NATURAL HORIZONS FOR NUTRICOSMETICS

SOLUTION

WHAT MAKES IT SO EFFICIENT ?

•Photo-protection and prevention from UV damages Green BeauTea extract and Pomprotect (pomegranate extract) •Skin micronutrition with natural Vitamin C from Acerola •Skin protection with Rosemary leaf and its antioxidant properties

Packed with polyphenols, antioxidants and vitamins, naturally potent and sustainably-sourced botanical ingredients, BeauTea Sun protect checks all the ‘beauty from within’ boxes.

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NATURAL HORIZONS FOR NUTRICOSMETICS

SUMMARY

US HERBALS

+21%

& BOTANICALS SALES TRENDS

2015

BIOLOGICAL ACTIONS OF

NUTRICOSMETICS ON SKIN

MARKET

OPPORTUNITIES

FRANCE

NUTRICOSMETIC

STARS

BEAUTEA

SUN

PROTECT

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2019

ANTI-AGING, BEAUTY, SUN CARE

ANTI-AGING SUN CARE

SKIN PROTECTION

MOISTURIZING

SKIN MICRONUTRITION

CHINA

WHITENING, HYDRATION, BEAUTY

GREEN TEA

USA

ANTI-AGING, HYDRATION, SUN CARE

BIRCH SAP POMEGRANATE

PHOTO-PROTECTION

SKIN MICRONUTRITION

PREVENTION

SKIN PROTECTION

NATURAL HORIZONS FOR NUTRICOSMETICS

SOURCES

SOURCES/LINKS: 1/ Naturex internal data.

2/ Ingredient Insight: Beauty from within, Mintel, April 2016.

3/ International analysis of the nutricosmetics market, Nutrikéo, July 2016.

4/Fragrance, US, 2014.

5/ Nutricosmetics: Decoding the Convergence of Beauty and Healthcare, Kline presentation at In-Cosmetics, Amsterdam, April 2008 https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/23875386/nutricosmetics-decoding-the-convergence-of-kline-amp-company Retrieved July 2016.

6/ F. Afaq, H. Mukhtar, Botanical antioxidants in the prevention of photocarcinogenesis and photoaging. Exp Dermatol 2006: 15: 678–684. Available at http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16881964 7/ University of Maryland Medical Center, Green Tea http://umm.edu/health/medical/altmed/herb/green-tea Retrieved July 2016.

8/ S.M. Meeran, S. Akhtar, S.K. Katiyar, Inhibition of UVB-induced skin tumor development by drinking green tea polyphenols is mediated through DNA repair and subsequent inhibition of inflammation; J Invest Dermatol 2009;129:1258–1270.

Available at https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2669839/ 9/ L.K. Juneja, D-C. Chu, T. Okubo, Y. Nagato, H. Yokogoshi; L-theanine–a unique amino acid of green tea and its relaxation effect in humans, Trends in Food Science & Technology 10 (1999) 199-204. Available at http://www.scicompdf.se/cooldown/juneja_1999.pdf 10/ J.A. Nichols, S.K. Katiyar, Skin photoprotection by natural polyphenols: Anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant and DNA repair mechanisms; Arch Dermatol Res. 2010 March; 302(2): 71.

Available at http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2Fs00403-009-1001-3 11/ S. Sreekumar, H. Sithul, P. Muraleedharan, J. M. Azeez, S. Sreeharshan, Pomegranate Fruit as a Rich Source of Biologically Active Compounds, Biomed Res Int. 2014686921. Available at http://www.hindawi.com/journals/bmri/2014/686921/ 12/ F. Afaq, N. Khan, D.N. Syed, H. Mukhtar, Oral Feeding of Pomegranate Fruit Extract Inhibits Early Biomarkers of UVB Radiation-Induced Carcinogenesis in SKH-1 Hairless Mouse Epidermis; Photochemistry and photobiology 86.6 (2010): 1318–1326.

Available at http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3016092/ 13/ Ingvar Svanberg, R. Sõukand, Ł. Łuczaj, R. Kalle, O. Zyryanova, A. Dénes, N. Papp, A. Nedelcheva, D. Šeškauskaitė, I. Kołodziejska-Degórska, V. Kolosova, Uses of tree saps in northern and eastern parts of Europe; Acta Soc Bot Pol 81(4):343–357; December 2012. Available at https://pbsociety.org.pl/journals/index.php/asbp/article/view/asbp.2012.036/0

Design & supervision: Havas Paris / writing: Mensquare / pictures: Shutterstock.

Non-contractual pictures and illustrations.

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Your Natural Selfcare Team.

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