Fine Cuisine July 2014

COMPLIMENTARY THE EDITOR’S PICKS FOR

BARBADOS’

BEST FISH CUTTERS 5 MIXOLOGISTS YOU SHOULD KNOW

JULY 2014

SMOKING SUMMER

COOKING SLOW WITH FLAVOUR

+BEER

APPRECIATION GRILL THRILL

C R E D I T S Publisher: VIVIAN-ANNE GITTENS Editor: TYSON HENRY Advertising Manager: PAULETTE JONES Deputy Business Manager: LYLE JONES Writers: TYSON HENRY, NICK NUNES, SCOTT AMES & LAURA WILLIAMS Consulting Chef: LEANDRO STUART Photography: DANNY FENTY & TARIK BROWNE Design/Layout: IMAGEWORX Senior Advertising Executive: KELLY JOHNALLY – TEL: (246) 430-5515 Email: kellyjohnally@nationnews.com Advertising Executive: ASHA JONES – TEL: (246) 430-5519 Email: ashajones@nationnews.com Advertising Executive: DANIELLE BECKFORD – TEL: (246) 430-5495 Email: daniellebeckford@nationnews.com Advertising Executive: ADRIAN ISHMAEL – TEL: (246) 430-5519 Email: adrianishmael@nationnews.com Advertising Coordinator: WENDEY DELANEY – TEL: (246) 430-5517 Printers: PRINTWEB CARIBBEAN LTD – TEL: (246) 434-6719

Editor’s Note Hello Summer!

I’m a positive person, and I usually prefer to see things with a positive twist. Because of this, rather than stay indoors and say colourful words about the heat, I prefer to focus on the pleasant things that summer brings instead.

Even though school days are long gone, the summer holidays still represent a chance to lime on the beach, at a bar, or at home with some friends. With our minds fixated on summer, the Fine Cuisine team hit the road in search of Barbados’ best fish cutters (page 13), and found some of the island’s best mixologists along the way (page 9).

We may consider ourselves the home of rum, but Barbados loves beer. We addressed this by showing our appreciation for the brew and its varieties on page 4, replete with a glossary of terms.

A member of The

There is a lot more excitement inside, where you will embark on an epicurean journey to learn more about sushi from acclaimed chef Scott Ames, shish kebabs for the summer, and our recipe for a creamy shrimp pasta treat that your guests will swoon over.

There’s so much to look forward to and do this summer.

Until next time, enjoy!

Edi Editor

OCM Group

Fine Cuisine is produced by The Nation Publishing Co. Limited; a subsidiary of The Nation Corporation, which is a member of the One Caribbean Media (OCM) group of companies. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information contained within this magazine is accurate, however The Nation Publishing Co. Limited cannot be held responsible for any consequences that may arise from any errors or omissions. This publication cannot be copied in whole or in part without explicit permission from the Publisher.

Pan seared shark served on a bed of arugula by chef Leandro Stuart.

Photography by Danny Fenty.

Contents Beer Appreciation 04 5 Mixologists You Should Know 09 Barbados’ Best Fish Cutters 12 Food Crazes in Barbados & Sushi 16 Smoking Summer 18 Succulent Summer 21 Grill Thrill 22

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Tasting Room

Beer

Appreciation

by Tyson Henry

B

eer is about more than just taste. How it looks in the glass, how it smells when you raise it to your mouth, and how it feels when you take a sip, are all part of the beer drinking experience. In this article you will learn more about how to fully understand and appreciate your beer by learning the beer basics – the raw ingredients, the brewing process (traditional and contemporary), pairing it with food, and cooking with beer.

There are many styles and thousands of brands of beer made all around the world. All of these beers are characterised by regional influences and brewing traditions, as well as the different kinds of ingredients available – barley, malt, wheat, specialty malts or hops.

Don’t confine your preferred brews to the bottle they come in or a glass. Many dishes, including stews, steaks, fish and burgers, can be flavoured with beer.

Beer adds a rich, earthy flavour to stews that makes them taste like they’ve been simmering for hours. Don’t worry about getting your guests drunk either – virtually all of the alcohol evaporates during the cooking process.

A brew can be used as a substitute for wine in many recipes, and the result will be a desirably malty and toastier flavour. Just like wine, you should never cook with a beer that you wouldn’t drink. If you don’t like the taste in a cup, chances are it won’t appeal to you on a plate.

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BEER CAVIAR 1 cup beer 8 grams agar-agar 1 cup cold oil Dissolve the agar-agar into the beer over a low heat. Wait a few minutes until the temperature cools. If the liquid is too hot, the droplets may not cool down enough and therefore not gel completely before reaching the bottom of the glass, resulting in deformed spheres. Fill a syringe with the solution and expel it drop by drop into the cold oil. The syringe needs to be high enough for the drops to sink when they get in contact with the oil, but not too high or the drops may break into smaller drops.

We’ve compiled the most popular beer types and their distinguishing characteristics below.

STOUT • Taste: Bitter, Rich • Aroma: Caramel, Burnt

DARK ALE • Taste: Bitter, Sweet, Rich • Aroma: Fruity, Caramel

GOLDEN ALE • Taste: Astringent, Sweet • Aroma: Fruity, Cereal

WHEAT BEER • Taste: Carbonation • Aroma: Fruity, Phenolic

PILSNER • Taste: Bitter • Aroma: Floral, Hoppy, Grainy, Malty

LAGER • Taste: Bitter, Sweet • Aroma: Hoppy, Cereal

BEER & FOOD PAIRING Different beers pair well with different foods, so it’s important to learn the taste differences before you hit the kitchen. Beer can be divided into two main groups: ales and lagers. Ale, the original beer, is brewed in a way that results in fruity, earthy flavours. Lagers make use of more modern brewing systems to be lighter and drier.

Here in Barbados, it is hard to find the various kinds of beers, but we do have stouts, lagers and ales which present a multitude of pairing options.

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Tasting Room

ALE Pair with: burgers, buffalo wings; Asian, Mexican, spicy, nutty or fried foods, pizza, steaks; Cheddar, Parmesan, or Romano cheeses.

LAGER Pair with: shellfish, light seafood, sushi, grilled pork and chicken, nottoo-heavy pasta dishes (without cream or meat sauces); south-east Asian, Latin, Mexican or spicy foods.

STOUT Pair with: roasted, smoked, barbecued or grilled and salty foods; oysters, rich stews, braised dishes, chocolate, desserts (ideally the beer is sweeter than the dish).

DRAUGHT BEER: originally referred to beer served through a tap, but now also describes a style of full strength lager, including packaged beer.

FERMENTATION: the action of yeasts converting sugars to alcohol.

Carbon dioxide is a by-product.

HOP: a perennial climbing plant, its cone or flowers give beer a bitter flavour and aroma.

HOP EXTRACT: bittering substance produced from hops and concentrated into syrup.

INDIA PALE ALE: originally ale that was supplied to the Indian Empire

GLOSSARY

by the British – high in alcohol and well hopped to stand the sea voyage.

Today it refers to a premium pale ale of similar characteristics.

ALE: a brew made with a top fermenting yeast. It is usually brown to

LAGER: a German term originally used to describe the bottom-

dark brown in colour, with a distinctive, fruity taste.

fermenting method of brewing, followed by a period of cold storage called lagering. Most modern beers are brewed using this method.

BARLEY: the grain used in brewing worldwide as the base for making malt. The barley is germinated by adding water and this releases sugars and a number of enzymes that are important to the brewing process.

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PILSNER: German brewers produce this style as inspired by the original brew from the town of Pilsen in the province of Bohemia in the Czech Republic.

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Editor’s Picks

5

Mixologists

You Should Know

by Tyson Henry | Photography by Danny Fenty

DAVID BARKER CURRENT BAR: TAPAS HOW LONG HE’S BEEN BARTENDING: I’ve been in the industry for 17 years, and I eventually moved on to doing culinary arts and then I went into bartending.

FAVOURITE DRINK TO MAKE: Reese’s Pieces (amaretto, crème de cacao dark, peanut butter, crème chocolate and caramel).

FAVOURITE DRINK TO ORDER: I am a connoisseur of alcohol. That’s a trick that keeps me creating. I’m always excited by new flavours and combinations.

WHEN NOT AT THE BAR: I’m spending time with my wife. I watch movies and try to stay away from the party scene.

INSPIRATION: Too many times in my life I have failed but I never saw it as an obstacle. I always saw it as a stepping stone. It’s about self-progression every day for me. My mantra is “changing the world one drink at a time”.

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Editor’s Picks

RYAN ADAMSON CURRENT BAR: Mount Gay Visitor’s Centre HOW LONG HE’S BEEN BARTENDING: I’ve been in this industry for six years.

FAVOURITE DRINK TO MAKE: Blood Sweat & Tears (Mount Gay XO, lime wedge, falernum, and cranberry juice).

FAVOURITE DRINK TO ORDER: Mount Gay Black Barrel and ginger ale.

WHEN NOT AT THE BAR: At home reading and playing around in the kitchen. I eat, sleep and drink drinks.

INSPIRATION: International brand ambassador Chester Browne.

ALEX RADULOVIC CURRENT BAR: MOJO HOW LONG HE’S BEEN BARTENDING: I’ve been in the industry for two years.

FAVOURITE DRINK TO MAKE: Margarita (gold tequila, Grand Marnier, half lime, half lemon, simple syrup, orange juice).

FAVOURITE DRINK TO ORDER: Bloody Caesar (vodka, Clamato juice, Tabasco, celery, celery salt and Worcester).

WHEN NOT AT THE BAR: I usually drink with my friends and just chill. But honestly, the bar is like a second home.

INSPIRATION: I had a friend who was bartending and I used to do it on the side with him and I once saw him doing stuff at work and thought it was pretty intense.

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GINA DUPAL CURRENT BAR: Blakey’s Bar & Restaurant HOW LONG SHE’S BEEN BARTENDING: I’ve been in the industry for 15 years.

FAVOURITE DRINK TO MAKE: Pumpkin Martini (pumpkin liqueur, Baileys and spiced rum).

FAVOURITE DRINK TO ORDER: Mudslides.

WHEN NOT AT THE BAR: If I’m not at the bar, I’m at home online looking for new stuff to make.

INSPIRATION: I get inspiration from David Barker and my boyfriend who is a chef because he helps me with pairing. Making cocktails is like a liquid meal, so you have to get on your chef side if you want to make cocktails.

VANESSA BALLANTYNE CURRENT BAR: Lime Bar HOW LONG SHE’S BEEN BARTENDING: I’ve been at this for seven years.

FAVOURITE DRINK TO MAKE: Long Island Iced Tea (Mount Gay Pure Silver white rum, vodka, silver tequila, gin, Cointreau and triple sec).

FAVOURITE DRINK TO ORDER: Whiskey and tonic or soda.

WHEN NOT AT THE BAR: I’m at another bar (laughs). My best friend recently opened a bar at his house so I frequent there.

INSPIRATION: I used to work at a hotel and I took a liking to the bartenders there and said I would like to get into making drinks.

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Editor’s Picks

Barbados’ Best

Fish Cutters

by Tyson Henry | Photography by Danny Fenty

I

n Barbados, the greatest fish cutters are sometimes found in unlikely places, and such is the case with a couple of the treats that made our list after we explored the island’s fish cutter scene.

Something about summer stirs up hankerings for fish, which is why we’ve made it easier for you to get your fix, by naming some of our favourite cutters on the island.

CUTTERS While it has a plethora of cutter options ranging from ham to smoked beef, its flying fish cutter is a handsdown favourite and it isn’t hard to see why.

One cutter is stuffed with two flying fish stacked between a warm salt bread that is cut in thirds, with each side lathered with a home-made mayo-based sauce. As if that isn’t enough, Cutters completes the meal with a generous serving of a hearty, fresh from the oven macaroni pie.

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Crazy Editor’s & Creative Picks

MR. DELICIOUS While its Miami Beach location has positioned Mr. Delicious as a hit among beachgoers, there is always a notably steady influx of diners who only come to the area for one thing – the food.

If you’re ever in the area be sure to order the flying fish cutter, which consists of a perfectly fried, well-seasoned flying fish fillet, lettuce, tomato and salt bread. With a nice variety of condiments to further bolster this already flavourful sandwich, Mr. Delicious is a guaranteed fix any time you have a craving.

CUZ’S FISH STAND The world-rated Cuz’s. Words can’t describe just how good this cutter is, but here goes nothing. Imagine a grab-and-go sandwich with a fresh cut of fish that’s at least an inch thick, breaded and fried to order and as golden as it appears.

You’ll be wishing you bought two of these creations the minute you bite into this juicy cutter’s layers of salt bread, Cheddar cheese, lettuce and fried egg (don’t knock it ’till you try it). By the time you’re done, you’ll see why Newsweek magazine listed Cuz’s in its 101 best places in which to eat around the world.

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Food Diary

Food Crazes in Barbados and Sushi

by Scott Ames | Photography by Tarik Browne

I

’ve been a chef for almost 25 years, and in my travels of different countries and living in a few places I have seen a lot of foods and food trends. When I returned to Bim, I noticed a lot of these foods come up and stay around for some time like a fashion item, then disappear like they never happened.

Here in Barbados, I have noticed a few foods trends over the years, but this one seems to be here to stay. I am also one of the competitors in the race.

Sushi came into the world many moons ago as street food, but has now hit the western market and blown up to be a food craze similar to tacos and Texan smoked meats over in the United States.

In Barbados, you used to only be able to get this product in a few restaurants, now with the demand for sushi in Barbados being so high it has exploded onto every food stall imaginable. From bars to coffee shops, this little delicacy is now everywhere to be found.

Sushi has also been deemed to be a healthy way of eating. People see the fresh fish, raw vegetables and think of healthy food. I do admit that the freshest of ingredients and how it is prepared make it seem very healthy. But sushi can be high in sodium and also has a high glycaemic index. These can make it a poor choice of food for certain people. Also, with the westernised form of sushi with fried foods and mayonnaise sauces, it can be high in calories.

Some chefs have found alternatives to this through the use of brown rice, quinoa, and low sodium soy sauces.

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Even the number of people starting to eat this so called “raw” product is widening. But how wrong we are . . . not all sushi is raw. Not even half of it. A lot of sushi is using marinated, seared, steamed, or tempura battered fish and seafood. The western style sushi is even using meats such as panko crusted pork and chicken. You will even see braised oxtail and short rib of beef in certain places. But the Eastern classical sushi concentrates on the beautiful fish and seafood that has become the base of this wonderful craze.

But let’s not get side tracked because sushi is an art form, and an amazing way to taste fresh flavours and some of the most bizarre ingredients. Sushi made by someone who has skill is an amazing adventure that will enlighten your taste buds.

Here in Barbados, we are blessed to have such a wonderful array of fresh fish. It’s a sushi chef’s dream. The fish we eat here sometimes takes days to get to restaurants in other countries. Here, we simply pop down to the fish market and haggle a few dollars for a wonderful piece of fresh fish. And most of these fish can be used in sushi such as tuna, snapper, flying fish, grouper, barracuda, tabio and lobster.

When the rainy season comes is my favourite time to make sushi. All the boats bring in the sweet pot fish that go so well with the summer fruits. There is nothing like the smell of steaming seasoned rice and the fresh smell of peeled mango waiting to adorn your maki roll.

Here in Barbados, we are blessed to have such a wonderful array of fresh fish. It’s a sushi chef’s dream. The fish we eat here sometimes takes days to get to restaurants in other countries.

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Food Diary

Smoking Summer

by Nick Nunes

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t’s that time of year again, for family fun and the beach and sun are where everyone is looking to spend some time.

Rather that jumping on the tired old barbecue as usual, why not try something a little different this summer and smoke some meats to carry along to whichever lime you go to or host instead of slaving over a hot barbecue and missing some fun.

Now, I know it seems like a daunting task to undertake but fear not for you don’t need a smoker to do it yourself.

Instead of making room for an extra appliance, when most people already have an oven or outdoor barbecue, I’ll explain exactly how you can get around to some sweet smoky flavours without much hassle.

Firstly, you should know that the history of smoking meats goes back to the eras of the cavemen. Thankfully, our modern conveniences take the process to a level of magnificence in nuanced flavours, ease of process and adaptive creativity.

Traditionally, alder, oak, and beech were the woods of choice for ancient Europeans. Today, especially in the

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This is a slow cook. The smoking process should take between four and six hours depending on your meat of choice. The longer the meat stays in the smoke, the deeper the succulence of its flavour.

Western world, the most popular woods to use are hickory, mesquite, pecan, maple, apple, cherry and plum. The scent of the smoking wood is what we’re looking for to lace our meat with a fiery flavour unparalleled.

Regardless of the wood chips you choose, it’s important to remember that the wood needs to be soaked in water or when you begin the process, the meat could dry out from too much smoke choking the meat. A further point on that line is making sure that during smoking the chips shouldn’t become too dry.

Firstly, choose your meat and wood chips. Once that part is over, what’s left is just the time it takes. There are options for preparing the meat prior to actual smoking, but the thing to remember is that the meat needs to be either brined or marinated very thoroughly.

If you’re going to brine the meat, you’ll need about one cup of salt per gallon of water. Also, when brining, the meat should be completely submerged in the solution. To cover a sizeable piece of meat, you may need two gallons of water.

Remember to feel free and experiment with the flavours of your brine. No one knows your taste buds as well as you do; you could even experiment with rum, soy sauce, ginger, and anything else you fancy, to pump up the flavour of your brine. The brining process should be done overnight, about ten to 12 hours. If you don’t brine the meat, that’s fine. It’s perfectly reasonable to leave the meat in your specially devised marinade for the same amount of time.

Once the process is done and you’re ready to remove the meat from the brine, have your smoking wood chips swimming in some water and make sure they get pretty soaked. Once they’re saturated, you can line a baking pan with the wet chips and then pour enough water in the pan to make a light film. The next step is simply coating your brined or marinated meat in whatever dry rub or special glaze would best suit your senses.

Next up is simply putting the oven at 250˚ F and resting the meat on a grill close above the wood chips and tenting both in foil with enough room for the smoke to gather but not to escape too much.

This is a slow cook. The smoking process should take between four and six hours depending on your meat of choice. The longer the meat stays in the smoke, the deeper the succulence of its flavour.

Very important is to keep checking on the wood chips as you don’t want them to become completely dry. This is why we save the water from the wood chip soak. Whenever the water evaporates from the pan, just add another little film as before.

This will keep the smoke from becoming too heavy and drying out the meat.

There you have it. Though it takes some planning and considerable time, there’s an undefinable satisfaction from a smoked meat well done.

HERE’S A SIMPLE BRINING RECIPE: 2 gallons water 2 cups kosher salt 3 cups sugar 1/4 cup beef stock 4 tbsps black pepper 1 tbsp. dried rosemary 1 tbsp. thyme 1/4 cup molasses 1/4 cup white wine (not cooking wine) 1/4 cup Worcester sauce

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Home Cooking

Succulent Summer

by Nick Nunes and Laura Williams

In about thirty-five minutes, you could have a dish that is sure to make taste buds bow with the rocking combination of these quick flavours.

SHRIMP PASTA Serves 4 300-400 grams penne pasta 20-25 large peeled deveined raw shrimp 3 cloves minced garlic 1 onion, chopped 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes 1/2 tsp. dried herbs (basil, thyme, marjoram or a mixture) Olive oil, salt, pepper 1/2 cup dry white wine 3/4 cup heavy cream 3/4 cup vegetable or fish stock 1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

W

hen this time of year comes around, pretty much nobody wants to spend hours slaving in the kitchen over an elaborate meal, regardless of the potential for something delectable.

That’s where this creamy shrimp pasta dish comes in. In about thirty-five minutes, you could have a dish that is sure to make taste buds bow with the rocking combination of these quick flavours. This recipe comes to me courtesy of my friend Laura Williams, who is known to be a veritable rock star in the kitchen. From her dreamy desserts to this succulent shrimp dish, this veterinarian knows exactly what is up when it comes to cuisine.

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Cook pasta according to packet instructions.

Heat oil over medium heat in medium pan. Add garlic, onion, dried herbs and red pepper flakes. Sauté for five to ten minutes until onion is soft.

Add white wine and turn heat down. Simmer and reduce for ten to 15 minutes until most of the wine is gone. Add stock and heavy cream. Keep heat low and cook for 15 to 20 minutes until sauce has thickened slightly.

Stir occasionally. Season with salt and pepper.

While this is cooking, heat one tbsp. oil in another small frying pan. Cook shrimp for one to two minutes each side, until shrimp have turned pink and are cooked through. Set aside while sauce thickens.

Add 3/4 cup Parmesan cheese and stir until melted into sauce. Add cooked pasta and shrimp and stir to coat everything in the sauce.

Serve with the remaining Parmesan cheese.

“That’s the basic recipe. Remember not to over salt the sauce because the Parmesan will pick up that job when added at the end.” – Laura Williams

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Home Cooking

Grill Thrill

by Nick Nunes

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t’s summer time and the grilling is easy. This time of year is perfect for having a little lime outside and enjoying the weather, if it’s not raining, and doing something fun and flavourful.

Cooking something quick doesn’t get much simpler than throwing some shish kabobs on the barbecue and popping out some kebabs can showcase a little creative flair while also saving time.

Going the in-between road with shish kebabs is fantastic because it is the perfect halfway point between finger food and a full meal. Even better is the fact that you can use pretty much anything you already have around the kitchen.

Whether you’re catering to vegetarians, pescatarians or general omnivores, shish kebabs are the quick and easy way to appeal to all crowds. Some simple seasoning, some spaced out meats, and a few minutes is all you need to satiate the hunger beast in breakneck time.

In preparing shish kebabs, it should be well known to soak the stakes in water before lining them with your delicious array of edibles. Making certain that the stakes are very saturated with water is important

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because you don’t want your grill to flare up or char the meats and vegetables which would subsequently detract from the fiesta of flavour.

Thankfully, since the stakes are small, it only takes about ten minutes of soaking to ready the kebab skewers before creating your congaline of bite-sized morsels. Most popular for kebabs are chicken, beef tips and shrimp, but that shouldn’t stop you from expanding horizons and delving into the unknown with your palatial progression to a pièce de résistance.

Marinating is the key to moulding a masterpiece, if that isn’t common knowledge then it should be.

Whether you intend to grill up some shrimp, lamp, beef, pork, chicken or plain veggies, the key to that fire flared flavour is in the marinade. Whether you’re going for bold and spicy or sweet and tangy, the tiny bites on your skewer should be packing a pleasurable punch.

Of course, regardless of the meat or meats you choose, onions, sweet peppers, tomatoes, mushrooms, potatoes, or even mozzarella chunks are all welcome to the flavour parade ready to complement the succulence of your seared sensation.

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