MA Purchasing Module: Off-White Sustainable Range Proposal

/W20 OSAL LL” A PROP OR A NGE BLE F A A R IN R A A “SUST DENIMWE EX UNIS ORD L IE L NATA

instagram.com, 2020

CONTENTS p. 4-8 The Brand Legal Structure p. 9-10

Rationale

p. 11-18

Consumer Off-White’s Target Consumer

Sustainable For All Consumer

Market Segmentation

Consumer Psychology

p. 21-26

The Market Luxury Market Unisex Clothing

p. 27-38 Competitor Analysis Market Positioning Map SWOT Analysis

p. 39-40

The Range Plan

p. 41-48

Product Trend Analysis Denim

Season

Colour

Streetwear

PAGE 1

Sustainable for All p. 49-50

Sizing

p. 55-66

Raw Materials

Sustainable For All Sourcing

Sourcing the components

Manufacturing

Transparency

p. 68-69

Critical Path

p. 71-84

Tec Pack

p. 85-86

Product Cost Analysis

p. 87-94

Marketing Mix

Product

Pricing strategy

Introductory sales plan

Place

Promotion

p. 95-98

End of Life Strategy

p. 99-100

Conclusion

p. 101-117

References

p. 118-122

Image references

Appendices

PAGE 2

“the grey area between black and white as the color Off-White.”

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Karimzadeh, 2018

THE BRAND

facebook.com, 2018

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Off-White, formalised as OFFWHITE c/o VIRGIL ABLOH, is a luxury streetwear brand based in Milan. Founded in 2013 by American designer Virgil Abloh, the brand retails clothing and accessories globally, across independents and department stores, as well as trading online.

Listed as 2018’s hottest brand in the world, the clothing uses stylised items to reference key cultural moments, based on concepts that adapt from season to season (Lyst.co.uk, 2019). Designed by Abloh himself, he describes his words as “orchestrated storytelling” and has collaborated with brands such as Nike and Jimmy Choo, whilst gaining celebrity status among the likes of Kanye West, Naomi Campbell and Drake (Broeke, 2018).

Virgil Abloh founded Off-White “the grey area between black and white as the color Off-White.”

Off-White named finalist for LVMH Prize

2013

MENS & WOMENS SS15 “MOVING STILL” “NEBRASKA”

2015

MENS & WOMENS AW15 “DON’T LOOK DOWN” “SPLIT ENDS”

Collaborated with Nike, Champion and ASAP Rocky

Men’s and women’s collections are shown during Paris Fashion Week.

MENS & WOMENS SS16 “BLUE COLLAR” “OFF DAY”

2016

MENS & WOMENS SS19 “JIM STARK” “TRACK AND FIELD”

MENS & WOMENS SS18 “TEMPERATURE” “NATURAL WOMAN”

2018

Abloh starts the company’s furniture arm, Grey Area.

Collaborated with Jimmy Choo, Ikea and Sunglass Hut

Off-White and Sunglass Hut created a unisex line of sunglasses called “For Your Eyes Only.”

MENS & WOMENS AW18 “WEST VILLAGE” “BUSINESS CASUAL”

2019

Capsule collection featuring Abloh’s graphics of items in his Cutting Room Floor exhibit

First concept store opens in Aoyama, Tokyo

MENS & WOMENS AW16 “YOU CUT ME OFF” “YOU’RE OBVIOUSLY IN THE WRONG PLACE”

2017

MENS & WOMENS AW17 “SEEING THINGS” “NOTHING NEW”

MENS & WOMENS AW19 “PUBLIC TELEVISION” “HIS & HERS”

2014

Off-White launches womenswear

MENS & WOMENS SS17 “MIRROR MIRROR” “BUSINESS WOMAN”

Off-White and Nike re-designed Nineties-style shoes using various patterns and materials.

Collaborated with SSENSE

MENS SS14 & WOMENS AW14

2020

“SUSTAINABLE FOR ALL” UNISEX COLLECTION

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instagram. com, 2020

ss20 women’s Off-White™ “Meteor Shower” collection

LEGAL STRUCTURE

Designers use Intellectual Property rights to protect original work, such as product design. There are different types of intellectual property, each providing protection in different ways, for example, the Registered Designs Act (1949). In this Act, “design� means the appearance of a part of a product. This could be a risk for the Sustainable for All range, as detailed in the comparative shop report, multiple brands demonstrate similar products. However, this is protected by a right in a registered design to the extent that the design is new and has individual character (legislation.gov.uk, 1949). As the range does not demonstrate a design which is new or has individual character and is intended for mass production and distribution, the physical garment does not infringe the act.

Images: instagram. com, 2020

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Further, the range would require trademark protection under Class 25 in the Trademarks Act (1994). OffWhite is owned by New Guards Group, though Virgil Abloh has ownership over the Off-White trademark. The registered trademark means OffWhite have an exclusive right to use the trademark for goods in which it is registered. If anyone uses an identical or similar trademark in connection with similar goods without authorisation, they can be sued for infringement.

When it comes to garment manufacturing, the denim industry is putting strain on the environment due to the washes, dyes and chemicals used and overall water consumption (Preuss, 2019).

According to the UN Environment (2018) it takes 3,781 litres of water to make just one pair of jeans. As a result of the waste clothes produce, consumers want the fashion industry to become more sustainable. 57% of consumers are making more ethical fashion purchases in comparison to 12 months ago, whilst 57% agree that buying too many fashion items is bad for the environment (Baram, 2019). There was also a 193% increase in page views for the term ‘ethical denim’ last year, according to ‘Decade of Denim’ report by fashion and e-commerce platform Lyst (2019).

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RATIONALE ss20 men’s Off-White™ “plastic” collection

Environmental factors have become a high priority in the global fashion industry, as the State of Fashion report (2020) revealed the industry is “extremely energy-consuming, polluting and wasteful.” It is estimated around 35% of materials in the supply chain end up as waste, and of all discarded clothing, only 10% is recycled, 8% re-used and 57% is sent to landfill (commonobjective. co, 2018).

Whilst sustainability poses a challenge for the industry, it also provides an opportunity for future fashion. To address growing demand for sustainable fashion, a A/W 2020 sustainable denimwear range will be developed for the luxury streetwear brand, Off-White. Named “Sustainable for All”, recycled textiles will be utilised and produced using a reduced amount of water and CO2 emissions. Following Off-White’s previous unisex collection “For All”, the range will be a second release, offering 4 unisex products; a jacket, shirt, jeans and overall. Using academic research, the range will be developed from concept to end-of-life, supported by costing theory to produce a commercially viable range of sustainable products.

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Images: instagram. com, 2020

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57% of consumers are making more ethical fashion purchases in comparison to 12 months ago...

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THE CONSUMER

Images: instagram. com, 2020

In Teen Vogue (2018), Abloh explained “the concept with Off-White is that I have no ideal target. It’s more about trying to make something for everyone, and I think that’s what helps make it unique.” Even though the brand aims to include a wide audience, their primary consumer is both

gender’s in the 18-27 age bracket.

They also have a high-income, dress in designer clothes and are loyal to their products. Additionally, they have a secondary consumer; has a good income, buys designer items as a one-off and keeps up with trends, for example, a retail shop assistant or a student.

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OFF-WHITE’S TARGET CONSUMER

THE SUSTAINABLE FOR ALL TARGET CONSUMER Age: 18-25 Gender: Male and Female Income: 30k p/a Education: Degree level Interests: Environment, celebrities, music, art, magazines

Preferences: Fashion products, ethically produced clothing, artisan design

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Images: Abloh, (2020), terranovastyle. com (2020), instagram. com, (2020), Gonolivier (2020), Zatolokina_ (2020)

Aspirations: To be in a managerial role or own their own business

MARKET SEGMENTATION

Targeting the 18-25 demographic, the range appeals to both Millennial and Generation Z customers, who make up nearly half of the luxury market (Bradford, 2019). The State of

Fashion Report (2020) suggested younger cohorts in particular, hold strong beliefs about sustainability; 66% of respondents to a McKinsey US cohort survey say they consider sustainability when making a luxury purchase.

75% of respondents were classed as millennials. As a primary consumer, the individual in this age bracket would be on a higher income of 30k p/a than that of a secondary consumer, who will be on minimum wage. However, as an accessible product, the range will be affordable to both.

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The Sustainable for All range will use market segmentation to identify the target consumer.

Dolnicar et al (2018:11) describe market segmentation as “the process of grouping consumers into naturally existing or artificially created segments of consumers who share similar product preferences or characteristics.� Market segmentation divisions allow the analysis of consumers further, for example, socio-demographic segmentation. Socio-demographic segmentation criteria includes age, gender, income and education; useful in industries such as luxury goods (Dolnicar et al, 2018).

Off-Whiteâ„¢ resort campaign: The Impression 2019

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Images: loveandpr.com, 2018

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CONSUMER PSYCHOLOGY Analysing market segmentation further, Yankelovich and Meer (2006) argue socio-demographics do not represent a strong basis, suggesting that values and preferences are more influential in terms of consumers’ buying decisions. Therefore, additionally psychographic segmentation is used to take into account the consumers interests, preferences and aspirations sought when purchasing a product (Dolnicar et al, 2018).

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Images: loveandpr.com, 2018

By understanding the Sustainable for All consumers preferences, the range can focus on using sustainably sourced products and influential rap artists for promotional techniques.

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“

...around 35% of materials in the supply chain end up as waste, and of all

discarded clothing, only 10% is recycled, 8% re-used and 57% is sent to landfill

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THE MARKET

LUXURY MARKET

Athwal et al (2019) define luxury as synonymous with superior quality and uniqueness, whilst being uncompromisingly extravagant in terms of effort and material. Given its widespread reach, sustainability issues are especially important in the luxury sector (Athwal et al, 2019). According to department store Selfridges (2020), more

than 60% of its customers want to shop sustainably, while the social and environmental impact of a purchase was found to be important for 84%. Specifically, Mintel’s Designer Fashion report (2019) revealed Millennials (aged 20-39) are the consumers most likely to agree that the price of designer fashion, means it should be more ethical than high-street fashion. Therefore, the Sustainable for All range will address the growing demand for sustainable apparel within the luxury sector.

Still, a challenge for the products is how the attributes of quality and design associated with luxury can be sustainable.

Beckham and Voyer (2014) note that luxury items may appear less desirable and luxurious when they are labelled ‘sustainable’, and where aesthetics are key,

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The Sustainable for All range is targeted at the luxury market; consistent with the Off-White brand. The demand for luxury products is prevalent, with Drapers (2019) revealing the UK’s top 30 luxury fashion brands contributed £5.25 billion in revenue to the UK economy in 2017/18; up 1.9% year on year.

This demonstrates consumers are increasingly investing in luxury products; providing a stable market for the range.

Nevertheless, Off-White’s strong relationship with its customers via high-quality design and retailing, means the brand can continue to focus on quality and artistry whilst incorporating sustainability goals. Hennings et al (2013) contend that luxury products focused on high standards of quality with an emphasis on craftsmanship, can provide a solid basis for environmentally responsible messaging. If sustainability is successfully incorporated, it could be powerful in normalising the consumption of sustainable

luxury apparel (Athwal et al, 2019). Using high-quality design and considering brand values will ensure the Sustainable for All range does not compromise on the identity that comes with purchasing a luxury product.

Further, Lo and Ha-Brookshire (2018) note some consumers are often not concerned with sustainability when purchasing luxury products, as they believe they are already made sustainably. They state, among the attributes that are more prevalent to consumers in luxury, is the quality of materials and durability which correlates with values promoted in sustainable consumption. Some garment types offer greater potential for durability, for example, jeans, and so there is an opportunity to target design for durability with these garments (Valuing Our Clothes: the cost of UK fashion report, 2017). Taking this into account, durability of materials will be considered, whilst the end-of-life strategy will look at the potential longevity of the luxury garments.

Images: Kim, 2019

sustainability is considered unattractive (Athwal et al, 2019). This is also considered by Lo and Ha-Brookshire (2018), who highlight luxury product consumers believe recycled materials reduce values and quality, and sustainable aspects are not aligned to the identity that consumers are seeking.

For example, the psychological benefits, such as consumers seeking to create a personal brand identity, feel good about themselves or impress others (Athwal et al, 2019).

Kim, 2019

UNISEX CLOTHING

Virgil Abloh. Abloh represents a changing culture, diversity and the shifting genres of fashion (Hollenbeck, 2019). It could be suggested unisex clothing symbolises these attributes.

Even so, some consumers do not agree with the design and fit of unisex clothing. High-street retailer, Zara, received backlash for their ‘ungendered’ designs in 2016, with shoppers criticising the selection of baggy shirts and loose trousers, suggesting the brand should have added more subversive options (Petter, 2017). Retailers often avoid slim silhouettes, opting for loosefitted styles and versatile shapes.

Arguably, this pushes the notion that only masculine clothing is worth being worn by both genders (Jones, 2017).

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In recent years, gender and sexuality has been increasingly addressed in mainstream media, resulting in brands releasing gender-neutral clothing.

Selfridges buying manager, Heather Gramston, notes how designers are now taking a fluid approach with their clothing categories, specifically in streetwear (Selfridges, 2020). Selfridges introduced its Agender initiative in 2015, followed by The New Unisex campaign in 2018, dedicated to luxury design-led fashion without gender categorisation.

By choosing gender-neutral products, the Sustainable for All range encourages the inclusivity of unisex clothing in the luxury market. Additionally, this coincides with the Off-White brand, associated with founder,

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On the other hand, Marcus Jaye (2020), founder of style blog The Chic Geek, claims unisex clothing is for more shapeless garments, and as we’re moving away from skinny fits, unisex styles will work better. As well, trend forecasting platform, WGSN (2019), predicts the A/W 2020 season will see brands expand on streetwear style, with relaxed menswearinspired pieces for the young woman inspiring gently oversized silhouettes in denim products.

Accordingly, the Sustainable for All range will be styled as oversized. Although this does not address the potential issue of avoiding slim silhouettes, if the range was developed further, Off-White could look at incorporating different and more ‘feminine’ clothing both genders would wear.

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Images: Kim, 2019

COMPARATIVE SHOP REPORT

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Sustainable for All

To understand market competition, comparative shopping and competitor analysis helps buyers determine a products position in the marketplace; highlighting similarities and differences with its competition (Grose, 2011). In the Sustainable for All comparative shop report, price, styling and quality of competitors denim products will be observed and assist with creating a range that is viable yet unique for Off-White.

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hypebeast.com, 2020

MARKET POSITIONING MAP

hypebeast.com, 2020

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The positioning of brands depict that Off-Whites designs are more streetwear than their luxury competitors; whilst streetwear brands maintain lower prices. This could suggest the company have found a niche in the marketplace; combing luxury with streetwear design. The brands distinctive merchandise is showcased through minimalistic typography, including; quotation marks, zip ties and the four-way arrow logo. As part of their brand identify, their designs and collaboration of streetwear and luxury is a unique selling point.

STREETWEAR FASHION

LOW PRICE HIGH PRICE

FASHION PAGE 30

Images: juliengallico. com (2020), Wikipedia. org (2020), logolynx.com (2020), searchlogovector. com (2020), redbubble. com (2020), 1000logos.net (2020), agneseangelini.com (2020), reddit.com (2020), logos-download.com (2020), hdicon.com (2020), cleanpng.com (2020), anothermag.com (2020) and waterfront.co (2020)

OFF-WHITE COMPETITOR BRANDS:

HQ: Paris, France Consumer: Millenials Locations: Worldwide Means of business: Online, standalone & department stores Product: Women’s and men’s fashion clothing

Market: Streetwear and accessories fashion HQ: New York, USA Consumer: 16-35 year old males Locations: 12 countries including: Paris, London, Tokyo and New York Means of business: Online & 10 stand-alone stores

Price Range: £50 - £4000

Product: Men’s clothing & accessories

Branding & Marketing: Highprofile designers and heritage

Price Range: £30 - £700

Sourcing: Italy, China and Tunisia

Branding & Marketing: drops limited new items every Thursday

Best known for: Trainers

Sourcing: Canada, US and China

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Market: Luxury fashion

Market: Luxury fashion Market: Luxury fashion HQ: London, HQ

Consumer: 20-50 year old middle and high-class

Consumer: 25-45 years old

Locations: Worldwide

Locations: Worldwide

Means of business: Online, stand-alone & department stores

Means of business: Online, standalone & department stores

Product: fashion, accessories and leather goods

Product: Men’s, women’s and childrens clothing & accessories

Price Range: £200 - £3000

Price Range: £300 - £3000

Branding & Marketing: High-profile designers

Sourcing: Italy, Hungary, Spain, Portugal, China and India

Sourcing: Italy and China

Best known for: Ethical luxury fashion

Best known for: Double G logo

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HQ: Florence, Italy

Women’s Logo Denim Jacket

Details: Spread collar, long sleeves, buttonfastening, patch pockets, all-over graphic pattern, distressed, branded leather patch

£1,075

£620

Details: Boxy fit, buttoned pockets, slash pockets at side, adjustable buttoning at cuffs and waist, button front, logo engraved

Details: Button fastening at front, pockets on the chest, Stella McCartney logo

Sizes: XS - L

Sizes: 34 - 44 FR (UK size 6 - 16)

Composition: 100% Cotton

Composition: 100% Cotton

Composition: 98% Organic Cotton, 2% Elastane

Made in Italy

Made in Italy

Made in Italy

Sizes: 6 - 18

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£650

Women’s Logo Denim Jacket

stellamccartney.com (2020)

Men’s Asymmetrical Graphic-print Denim Jacket

balenciaga.com (2020)

selfridges.com (2020)

DENIM JACKET

farfetch.com (2020)

£590

Men’s Big Denim Shirt

Details: oversized fit, a button fastening, two chest patch pockets and the brand’s signature stripes at each sleeve

Men’s Polka Dot Denim Shirt

£635

£184

Details: Supple chambray demin, long fit, buttoneddown collar, long sleeves Balenciaga logo printed at back

Details: short sleeves, a front button fastening, two chest pockets, a curved hemline and white polka dot print

Sizes: XXS - XXL Composition: 100% Cotton, 50% Acrylic, 50% Wool

Sizes: 38 - 41 FR (UK size S - L)

Made in Italy

Composition: 100% Cotton Made in Tunisia

Sizes: XXXS - 8XL Composition: 100% Cotton

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Men’s Oversized Denim Shirt

balenciaga.com (2020)

farfetch.com (2020)

DENIM SHIRT

Details: Five-pocket styling, mint green arrows printed at front, zip fly, slim fit Sizes: 29 - 38 inches Composition: 100% Cotton Made in Italy

Men’s Straight-leg Jeans £445 Details: mid rise, waistband with belt loops, button & zip fastening, five pocket design

Men’s Tapered Denim Trousers £580 Details: Blue stonewashed denim, green and red web detail, five pockets, leather back patch with stamped fit and size

Sizes: 26 - 38 inches

Sizes: 29 IT - 42 IT (UK size 26 - 40 inches)

Composition: Cotton 100%

Composition: 100% Cotton Made in Italy

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£430

gucci.com (2020)

Men’s Slim Bleached Denim Jeans

farfetch.com (2020)

off---white.com (2020)

DENIM JEANS

Details: long sleeves, button closure, single chest pocket, back flap pockets, defined waist with belt hoops, ‘white’ print, diagonal stripes on the back legs Sizes: 4 - 18 Composition: 100% Cotton Made in Italy

Women’s Denim Belted Jumpsuit

Women’s Denim Boilersuit

£2,200

£1,547

Details: Spread collar, button closure at front, pockets, removable self-tie belt, relaxed-fit, zip closure at back, gold logo hardware and contrast stitching in tan

Details: band collar, front zip fastening, patch pockets, long sleeves

Sizes: 34 IT - 50 IT (UK size 2 - 14) Composition: 98% cotton, 2% elastane Made in Italy

Sizes: 34 IT - 52IT (UK size 2 - 16) Composition: 100% Cotton Made in Italy

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£417

farfetch.com (2020)

Women’s Light-Blue Denim Overall

ssense.com (2020)

antonioli.eu (2020)

DENIM OVERALL

SWOT ANALYSIS

Moreover, the report suggests sustainability has not been a priority in luxury denim products, with only Stella McCartney providing organic cotton. In the fashion industry, this is analysed as a weakness, as The State of Fashion report (2020) suggests environmental responsibilities haven’t been taken seriously enough. As Stella McCartney is not recognised for retailing streetwear products and targets an older consumer, the Sustainable for All range recognises the opportunity to bring sustainability

to a new audience and market; millennials and streetwear.

Similarly, within the competitor brands highlighted, denim unisex clothing has not been addressed; suggesting there’s a gap in the market for this category. Offering something different in a saturated and competitive market, whilst addressing consumer demand, will mean Off-White have a competitive advantage. hypebeast.com, 2020

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Off-White’s competitors have similarly used branding, oversized fits and blue fabric as part of product design; denoting a popular trend in the market. This provides consumers with choice and competitive pricing. However, consumers expect innovation and constant change, and in luxury fashion, product design, marketing communications and retailing are fundamental to competitive marketing strategies (Hines and Bruce, 2007).

STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

On trend clothing: use of brand logos, oversized fits and blue fabric

Majority luxury brands are not ethical/ use sustainable sources

Wide consumer choice of denim product between brands

Not much transparency of brand sourcing: competitor websites do not disclose their supply chain

‘Made in Italy’ provides strong sourcing options for Sustainable For All range Inclusive sizing

OPPORTUNITIES

THREATS

Gap in the market for: Unisex clothing Sustainability Personalisation

Saturated market means more competition

Competitive pricing

Sustainable clothing could potentially mean higher costs including: Materials, resources and labour

Offer consumers transparency

Counterfeit products

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Attract more consumers by offering affordable garments

Sustainable for All Range Plan

Denim Unisex Shirt AW002 Price: ÂŁ175 Size range: XXS - XXL Fabric: 65% Pianeta 35% Cotton Colour: Sky Blue Department: Denim Manufacturer: Berto Tessile Total order quantity: 4800

Denim Unisex Jeans AW003 Price: ÂŁ250 Size range: XXS - XXL Fabric: 65% Pianeta 35% Cotton Colour: Sky Blue Department: Denim Manufacturer: Berto Tessile Total order quantity: 11,200

Autumn/Winter 2020

September - December 2020

Denim Unisex Jacket AW001 Price: ÂŁ300 Size range: XXS - XXL Fabric: 65% Pianeta 35% Cotton Colour: Sky Blue Department: Denim Manufacturer: Berto Tessile Total order quantity: 9600

Denim Unisex Overall AW004 Price: ÂŁ300 Size range: XXS - XXL Fabric: 65% Pianeta 35% Cotton Colour: Sky Blue Department: Denim Manufacturer: Berto Tessile Total order quantity: 6400

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PRODUCT TREND ANALYSIS

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Behind the scenes of fw19 women’s Off-White™ runway show

Images: instagram.com, 2020

DENIM

As a staple product, denim is growing in demand annually.

Searches for all thing’s denim have increased 11% year on year, with jeans being one of the most searched-for fashion items worldwide (Lyst.co.uk, 2019).

This suggests there is a growing market for the denim products in the Sustainable for All range.

Nevertheless, WGSN (2020) predicts sustainability will be a core priority for brands and mills in the future, allowing denim to be appreciated with a clear conscience. Denim fabric’s main ingredient is cotton; a fibre that is heavily irrigated and fertilized and uses large amounts of water during the manufacturing process (Omotoso, 2018).

Further, fabric dyeing, washing and stonewashing make notable contributions to climate change impact and non-renewable energy consumption (Levi Strauss & Co, 2015). This is illustrated by a pair of Levi jeans in Figure 1. As a result, sustainability remains priority for denim brands, as consumers are predicted to invest in products that combine tradition with longevity, durability and performance (WGSN.com, 2020).

Off-White™ and END denimwear “Chemical Wash” collection

3781 litres of water Levi Strauss & Co (2015)

=

equates to around 33.4kg of carbon equivalent emitted

Unevironment.org (2018)

Images: clipart.email (2020), logok.org (2020) and vectorstock.com (2020)

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...searches for all thing’s denim have increased 11% year on year

Images: Ruberto, 2020

“

=

“

Figure 1: Water and energy consumption of one pair of jeans

SEASON

Ruberto, 2020

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The Sustainable for All range is designed for the A/W 2020 season, delivering products that provide coverage and warmth.

From September to December, the range will follow the product lifecycle. The lifecycle path monitors the process of introducing a product to market to its decline in sales.

The general path can be used as a basis for understanding consumer buying patterns, although Kotler (2008), explains retailing is categorised into trends; basics, fashions and fads. Each product category follows a different path, demonstrated in Figure 2.

Figure 2: Product Lifecycle

Fad

Growth

Fa

sh

io

Maturity

n

Decline

Basic Product

Time

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Introduction

Sales

The range is categorised as “fashion” products, which can often change from season to season. Trends grow in sales and remain popular, before new trends are introduced. Even so, fashions can vary in longevity and a particular ‘look’ can cross many seasons (Hines and Bruce, 2007). When the range is launched, the lifecycle can be used to make the best use of the products; by deciding whether to alter marketing decisions, for example reduce prices, expand to new markets or release more garments.

As a classic denim colour, the range focuses more on the details; distressed fabric and branding. In A/W 20/21, designers are predicted to focus on elevated basics and subtle techniques, such as extreme distressed looks (Watkins, 2019).

Crisp raw denim with contrast topstitching works best for giving structure to the oversized denim jacket, whilst blown out knees bring an edge to the straightlegged jeans (Trotman, 2020).

Further, premium-looking buttons and pared-down branding for the A/W season is recommended

by WGSN, to let details elevate basic items (Shukurova, 2018).

Therefore, the range utilises the recognisable Off-White arrow logo; reinforcing brand image and adding detail to simplistic denim design.

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COLOUR Montique, 2019

The chosen denim dye/colour for the Sustainable for All range is Pantone Sky Blue. Blue continues to transition from a core to a fashion colour in the A/W 20 season, with clean, soft tones emerging as a striking yet commercial alternative to more traditional denim hues (Kurazawa, 2018).

As Off-White is a streetwear brand, the Sustainable for All products reflect streetwear style. Streetwear continues to dominate the men’s category for A/W 20/21 according to WGSN (2019), with oversized fits trending. For jeans, this means straight and wide cuts, while jacket and shirt proportions come in boxy shapes (Trotman, 2019). Boiler suits also remain key for 2020, as the trend increased 261% YoY (Scullion, 2020). As high fashion draws on the oversized shapes and details of streetwear, these features are incorporated in the range (Trotman, 2019).

Montique, 2019

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STREETWEAR

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...designers are predicted to focus on elevated basics and subtle techniques, such as extreme distressed looks

SIZING However, a high percentage of consumers are ‘between sizes’, where one size is too small and the

Images: Groce, 2020

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The Sustainable for All garment’s will be labelled XXS – XXL. Men’s and women’s garments are generally based on different systems; men’s clothing is primarily communicated in terms of body measurements, whilst women’s clothing is labelled using code numbers (Ashdown, 2007). There is also no standardisation of UK sizing outside of retailers aligning their practices (Gill, 2019). Therefore, as unisex products, the range has ensured inclusive sizing to not discriminate against either gender.

loyalty. However, this feature is limited to online sales and not instore. Consumers, however, are able to try garments on instore to see if the fit is suitable.

On the other hand, it could be debated the range does not need to critically fit the consumer. Styled as oversized, the ideal garment size depends on how the consumer wants the item to look, which may not be true to size. Therefore, the sizing system may be considered as more acceptable, due to the amount of fabric intent of the product (Faust and Carrier, 2014).

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next size is too big; particularly in letter sizing (Faust and Carrier, 2014).

To tackle the potential issue, an online ‘Fit Finder’ tool will be provided online, highlighted in Appendix 1. The feature will recommend the consumers most suitable size after, gathering their data.

This will also allow the brand to tailor products to the consumer in the future, based on their details. As a result, it could build brand loyalty, as Faust and Carrier (2014) emphasise, brands who pay attention to customer sizing understand the connection between fit, conversion rates, customer retention and brand

FIT FINDER SIZING HELP

Unsure on your size?

Get help with our Fit Finder

STEP 1

ADD YOUR INFO Answer a few additional questions for a more exact recommendation CM IN

HEIGHT FT

IN

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WEIGHT ST

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Based on your previous purchases, we think you’re a size S...

STEP 2

YOUR CHEST SIZE CM IN

38 Based on your previous purchases, we think you’re a size S...

IN

CONTINUE

STEP 3

ADD BRA SIZE SHOWING: British sizes BUST 28

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CONTINUE

SKIP PAGE 52

Based on your previous purchases, we think you’re a size S...

STEP 4

YOUR WAIST SIZE CM IN

26 Based on your previous purchases, we think you’re a size S...

IN

CONTINUE

STEP 5

YOUR FIT PREFERENCE How do you want this item to fit?

Based on your previous purchases, we think you’re a size S...

Average

Looser

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Tighter

STEP 6

HOW OLD ARE YOU?

23 Why do we ask for this? Age has an impact on how your weight is distributed.

Knowing your age helps us recommend the right size.

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STEP 7

THIS IS WHAT WE THINK Your Fit Finder recommended you’ll be happy in a size..

S 85%

M

15%

This recommendation is based on your measurements, your purchases in the past and the orders people like you have made.

CONTINUE SHOPPING

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We think this is your size for this item! Not sure? Start again.

S

RAW MATERIALS

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Off-White’s manufacturing is currently based in Italy, Milan. Recognised globally for making luxury goods, Milan is home to the most famous luxury clothing brands in the world, including Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga. As a result, the country of origin for the Sustainable for All range will be Italy.

Supreme x Louis Vuitton capsule collection 2017

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Images: Esposito, 2017

SUSTAINABLE FOR ALL SOURCING The Sustainable for All denim will be sourced from fabric production company, Berto Industria Tessile. Berto is an Italian Denim Mill operating in the Italian region, Bovolenta, who create denim fabric using 65% Pianeta yarn and 35% Cotton yarn. Pianeta is created using Berto’s production waste; dyed yarn which comes out from the beginning and the end of the production line (denimpremierevision.com, 2018). This waste is re-generated and transformed into new yarn using EcotecŽ technology provided by Italian spinning group, Marchi & Fildi Spa.

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Talon, 2017

Figure 3: Pianeta Environmental Impact

To weave warp and weft the yarn

Finishing process

=

reductions of up to 78% in water

=

=

reduces litres of water used by 85%

=

& 56% in CO2 emissions and energy consumption Berto.it (2020)

& CO2 emissions by 32% per metre of fabric denimpremierevision.com (2019)

Images: clipart.email (2020), logok.org (2020) and vectorstock.com (2020)

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To dye the denim, Berto use a natural indigo dye stemmed from the processing of leaves from the indigofera tinctoria plant, cultivated in southern India (denimpremierevision. com, 2019). Several colour casts allow for transverse and customized products, whilst having huge reductions on environmental impact; shown in Figure 3.

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ss20 men’s and women’s Off-White™ collection

SOURCING THE COMPONENTS As a luxury range, the labels, buttons and logo print will be branded. Branding usually creates an identification line and awareness of the brand, whilst ensuring quality satisfaction (Shukurova, 2018).

These accessories will be sourced from various websites, where customisation of products can be implemented; detailed in Appendix 2.

Packaging, zips and elastic material are also included in the costing plan, as these are additional product costs.

Biodegradable packaging and tissue paper will be used to transport the products and prevent colour transfer from the dye, whilst hangers will be used to display the products in store.

To comply with The Sale of Goods Act 1979, the products will need to correspond with the product description and be of satisfactory quality and fit to use (legislation. gov.uk, 1979). Labels can provide consumers with this information. A product description, any dangers, compulsory care and washing details to avoid dye run, will be detailed on each Sustainable for All product.

Images: instagram.com, 2020

Manufacturing will be completed by denim apparel manufacturing company, C&S jeans. C&S jeans, located in Perugia, Italy, provide the making, finishing and printing of all denim garments. With the Sustainable for All range consisting of a variation of product departments, for example a jacket and pair of jeans; C&S can manufacture every garment, completed with logo printing. Further, the first step to tackling sustainability is brands knowing their supply chain; to prioritise, innovate and effectively reduce environmental impact (Vallejo, 2018). C&S Jeans “works for ethics and solidarity in fashion” and ensure “compliance with the most stringent quality, health, ecological and environmental requirements” (csjeans.com, 2020). This approach would make them an appropriate choice for manufacturing, as sustainable practices are considered throughout the production process.

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MANUFACTURING

Off-White™ resort 2019 denim campaign

Finally, the products will be washed by Italian company Everest. Everest offer a sustainable range of textile treatments, including the eco-blasting and ripping of garments. The material will be blasted at high pressure to recreate a worn area and using a small sandpaper drill, holes and worn edges will be implemented on the finished product (everest-lavanderie. it, 2020).

Although sustainable production has been identified, manufacturing in Italy may suggest high costs. Manufacturing

is estimated to be 25% more expensive in Italy than Turkey – similarly known for denim production – and 50% more than Far East countries (Donaldson, 2018).

If Off-White were to manufacture in a Far East country, costs will be reduced, resulting in higher profit margins.

Nevertheless, sourcing and manufacturing in Italy reflects luxury attributes; superior quality and uniqueness (Athwal et al.,2019). The Sustainable for All range aims to reflect these characteristics, and provide high-quality products to consumers.

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Images: Ozemebhoya, 2018

Consequently, consumers now demand greater transparency.

According to Mintel (2019) 67% of people agree that fashion retailers should be letting customers know when items are not made sustainably. Therefore, to provide consumers with greater transparency, the Sustainable for All’s supply chain, shown in Figure 4, will be shared publicly on OffWhite’s website.

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TRANSPARENCY Greenpeace “Detox My Fashion” Campaign 2011

In the luxury market, consumers often mistrust luxury brand’s and their sustainable practices. Known as ‘green-washing’, organizations engage in the proliferation of unsubstantiated ethical and sustainability claims, leading to increased consumer cynicism and mistrust (Jahdi and Acikdilli, 2009).

In 2018, Greenpeace analysed the progress of the “Detox My Fashion” campaign; addressing the toxic pollution from hazardous chemicals used in the manufacture of clothes.

The report revealed luxury brands, such as Louis Vuitton and Dior, were not making adequate advances, and were denying their responsibility for the pollution in their supply chain.

“

Images: maxima.it (2016), Jakarta (2015) and Lyngaas (2017)

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“

. ..67% of people agree that fashion retailers should be letting customers know when items are not made sustainably

Figure 4: Sustainable For All supply chain

Marchi & Fildi Spa’s EcotecŽ technology

Ecotec is a process exclusive of Marchi & Fildi, which transforms pre-consumer clippings (production waste from weaving and knitting companies) into new yarns.

Bovolenta, Italy

2

Berto Industria Tessile

ECOTEC yarns compared to similar product made with virgin materials have:

1. Yarn is supplied & tested to ensure high quality.

46.6% reduction on greenhouse effect 46.9% in energy savings 61.6% in water consumption

2. The yarn is dyed. Smart and sustainable dyes assure 85% less water and 32% less cO2 per metre of fabric

throughout the complete process Find out more about Marchi & Fildi Spa’s Ecotec technology

Biella, Italy

than a standard dye.

3. Next, the weaving process. The denim is produced with 78% less water and 56% less cO2, but how?

The company has installed a highly efficient conditioning plant that has halved the consumption of electricity and water. The numbers prove it:

5000 m3 of water and 475,200 kilowatt hours saved every year resulting in a reduction of 252 tonnes of CO2.

After weaving, the raw cotton is rough and stiff, with no dimensional stability. The finishing operations give the fabric a good appearance, the right handle and prepare it for the manufacturing.

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1

C&S Jeans

Denim apparel manufacturing, C&S Jeans, use an advanced production circuit which includes all process phases: cutting, making, finishing, prints and embroideries, washing and dyeing treatments.

Transparency is the guiding thread connecting all C&S departments.

Thei advanced integrated tracking system allows for detailed monitoring of all garment manufacturing phases, from choices regarding raw materials to accessories, up to the complete final production.

4

5 Everest

Find Sustainable For All garments across the UK!

Everest is a Laundry and Dyeing company that offers a complete range of textile treatments for the fashion sector on finished garments.

When the Sustainable For All range arrives at Everest, the garments are ripped using a small sandpaper drill to create holes and worn edges.

Need a repair?

Not a problem!

Bring your garment to your closest Selfridges store, and have your garment repaired!

Piombino Dese, Italy

Images: linkedin.com (2020), Wikipedia.org (2020), sinergest.com (2020), csjeans.com (2020), vectorstock.com (2020) and marketingweek.com (2020)

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3

Perugia, Italy

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“

WGSN predicts sustainability will be a core priority for brands and mills

in the future, allowing denim to be appreciated with a clear conscience.

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“

CRITICAL PATH

By defining each step, buyers will be able to prioritize important tasks. For the Sustainable for All range, the priority is the denim production; as this is the USP of the range. The use of sustainable materials means the production process is considered as ‘slow fashion.’

Figure 5: Pianeta Environmental Impact Idea

Product Design

Manufacturing Control

Shipping Consolidation

Factory Sourcing

Customs Clearance

Product Development

Raw Materials

Warehouse Delivery

Images: conceptdraw.com (2020), freepik.com (2020), ilustoon. com (2020), pinclipart.com (2020), seeklogo.com (2020), stickpng.com (2020) and vectorstock.com (2020)

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In the apparel industry, lead times are calculated to monitor production. The lead time is the total amount of time (quantified in number of weeks) from placement to completion of an order (Jeffrey and Evans, 2011). They ensure garments are available in store, on time, whilst following the critical path; a sequence of key deadlines that need to be met to achieve a predetermined delivery date (Jeffrey and Evans, 2011). The critical path of a garment is demonstrated in Figure 5.

Off-White X Sungalsses Hut capsule collection A slow fashion model focuses on transparent production, considering the resources required to make clothing with greater value and longevity (Gordon and Hill, 2014). As a result, the critical path will allocate more time during the manufacturing process, to monitor sustainable

practices. As the COO is Italy, freight will also be prioritised, to ensure stock arrives in the UK efficiently. This could be a risk for the range, as time will need to be allowed for transit and custom clearance, and if the method of freight is delayed, it will affect the Sustainable for All release date.

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Images: Klein, 2018

TECHNICAL PACK

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Sustainable for All

COLLAR POCKET DETAIL RIPS

DISTRESSED EDGES

SMALL BRANDED PRINT

A

B

C F

G

I H

E D

COLLAR

POCKET DETAIL

LARGE BRANDED PRINT FOLDED CUFFS AND BUTTON

A C B H F G

I

D

E

BUTTON AND ZIP FASTENING FRONT POCKET BACK POCKET

RIPS

SMALL BRANDED PRINT

B

A F

E H

C

G

J

L I K

D

A C

B

L

N

K

M

D

I

G H

J

F E

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Sustainable for All

PRODUCT COST ANALYSIS

The three elements of a costing analysis are the materials (50%), labour (20%) and overheads (30%) (Jeffrey and Evans, 2011).

Using these, the Sustainable for All range cost analysis is demonstrated in Appendix 2.

Appendix 2 confirms the jacket, jeans and overall are commercially viable.

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As the Pianeta is provided per 365gr/m2, this is converted into ounces. Cost variations largely come from the weight of the denim; with garment weights between 10oz - 12oz (Todd, 2015). Therefore, the jacket, jeans and overall will be 12oz each, and as a thinner denim, the shirt will be 9oz. To estimate the consumption of each garment, similar products have been measured, shown in Appendix 3. Taking these details, and the price of the components, an estimated buying price is established for each product.

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Images: endclothing.com, 2020

However, the shirt costs £10.11 more than the maximum buying price. Based on research gathered, compromises could be negotiated in order to reduce costs. Price negotiation is a critical, and often stressful, aspect of apparel sourcing (Newbery, 2018). To get as near to £52.50 as possible, both supplier and brand can evaluate whether negotiating factors justify paying the extra £10.11.

Such factors may include, the manufacturer packing in ratio to save time and space at the warehouse or/and adhering to specifications and size charts, with any defective garments not to be paid for (Newbery, 2018).

“

“

Price negotiation is a critical, and often stressful, aspect of apparel sourcing

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MARKETING MIX

Images: Niepsuj, 2016

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Once market needs are identified and interpreted, response can be given to consumer demands through a mix of marketing elements (Hines and Bruce, 2007). The traditional marketing mix factors were coined by Kotler (1994); product, price, place and promotion. Analysing both micro-environment and macroenvironment factors, the aim is to get the right product at the right price, place and time.

worldwide last year, and denim outerwear increasing by 133%, it is predicted the jeans and jacket will deliver a higher ratio of sales (Lyst. co.uk, 2019).

As men and women have different sizing systems, estimating the most popular clothing size is challenging. Women will typically buy into the XXS-M range, whereas men will buy S-XXL (Vasen et al., 2019). Based on this, the middle sizes S, M, L are estimated to sell the most.

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PRODUCT

The first release of the range will contain 8000 products; shown in Appendix 4. Luxury products are typically exclusive, as the idea of owning something unique is what attracts consumers (Gardetti, 2019). By launching a small quantity in a small number of stores (4 Selfridges department stores) the range contains an element of exclusivity. As a new product, the range can also see how well it sells before releasing more. With denim jeans being the most searched-for fashion items

PRICING STRATEGY

As the products vary in price, they offer consumers choice.

Known as good-betterbest pricing, this strategy identifies the offerings of each product (Dietzel and Ho, 2012); the denim shirt uses less material and is classified as a “good” price, followed by the jeans at a “better” price and the overall and jacket, at the “best” price, as they can be considered more fashion based products. This strategy is successful for achieving quantity maximisation, which in turn should achieve revenue maximisation for Off-White (Dietzel and Ho, 2012).

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The retail price of each product takes into account competitors pricing; shown in the comparative shop report.

Whilst a price range between £175-£300 still reflects luxury, it also provides an affordable luxury range for the 18-25 demographic.

Appendix 5 demonstrates an estimated sales plan for the Sustainable for All range.

Retailers traditionally work on a profit margin of around 60% on a branded item (Hills, 2020). However, luxury group LVMH showcased a 66.13% gross margin for the quarter ending in December 2019 (gurufocus.com,

2020). Based on this research, the margin for the Sustainable for All range is aimed at 70%, shown in Appendix 2. However, after completing the product cost analysis, the retail margins that have been estimated to make on each product, have been used in the sales plan. (Dietzel and Ho, 2012).

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INTRODUCTORY SALES PLAN

PLACE

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The range will be retailed in OffWhite’s concessions across the four UK Selfridges department stores. The planned sales period will be September – December; reflected in Appendix 6. The estimated sales plan reveals the expected product lifecycle; sales will be at their optimum during week 1 and week 5, before declining in week 13, when new fashions are expected and January sales begin.

Instagram account utilises Abloh’s status and knowledge to curate social media contents that transcends to different cultures and ages (Newbold, 2019). Therefore, Abloh’s status and Off-White’s 10.2 million followers can be used to promote the Sustainable for All range (Instagram, 2020). Still, it is increasingly hard to excite and inspire audiences who are overstimulated by social media (State of Fashion report, 2020).

Going forward, promotion of the range must use storytelling techniques, as industry executives believe the top trend shaping the industry will be marketing strategies that resemble media productions (State of Fashion report, 2020).

Off-White’s already established

Images: cleanpng.com (2020), clipartmax.com (2020), myiconstory (2018)

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PROMOTION

With sustainable and eco-friendly luxury practices in play, OffWhite need to communicate that message to their audience (Oakes, 2020). According to the State of Fashion report (2020), a tactic to grab consumers’ attention is social media; tapping into the drop culture typically associated with streetwear labels. Instagram has been an effective way of connecting brands and consumers, with 53% of users following their favourite brand (Varley et al., 2018). More than 90% of Instagram users are under the age of 35, making it an attractive platform for the OffWhite range; which targets the 18-25 consumer (Mancuso and Stuth, 2015). This also highlights there is an online audience, who would buy the garments through the website.

Bella Hadid for ss20 women’s Off-White™ “Meteor Shower” collection

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Images: Montique (2019) and instagram.com (2020)

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END-OF-LIFE STRATEGY

Images: Montique, 2019

Today’s fashion economies are based on a linear model; resources are extracted from the planet, turned into products and thrown away when no longer required (Lissaman, 2019).

A sustainable approach reflects a circular model; an economic system aimed at minimising waste and making the most of resources (Davis, 2020). This can include increasing a products lifetime; one of the most effective means of reducing its environmental footprint. By extending a garment just 9 months, carbon, waste and water footprints can be reduced from 20 – 30% (parliament. uk, 2019).

for the Sustainable for All range. If a product happens to tear, customers will be encouraged to return the item to a Selfridges store. A small repair will be fixed free of charge onsite, or, if a larger repair is needed, the item will be sent off to a garment repair facility, for a small price. To make consumers aware of this, they will receive a leaflet at point of sale, with information also provided on the website. The UK clothing repair market has an annual turnover between £116 million and £312 million; proving a lucrative market for OffWhite (WRAP, 2017).

Recognising this, garment repairs will be part of the end-of-life strategy Images: hiclipart.com (2020), worldvectorlogo.com (2020), 1000logos.net (2020) and vectorstock.com (2020)

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As consumers are becoming more aware of fashion’s environmental impact, there is an increasing demand for brands to facilitate clothing repairs. According to Mintel, three quarters of consumers would be more likely to buy from a designer brand that offers free repairs (Sender, 2019).

This circular method was adopted by retailer, Patagonia, in 2016. The brand restores customers items and provides free, easy-to-follow online repair guides. As a result, 40,000 repairs are made a year at its service centre in Reno, Nevada (Butler, 2018).

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“

“

...less than 1% of the material used to produce clothing globally is recycled into new clothing...

Although this extends the product lifecycle, it does not address how the consumers garment will be disposed of once it is completely at the end of its use. Informed by The Guardian (2018), it is understood that less than 1% of the material used to produce clothing globally is recycled into new clothing, with 12% recycled into other products. To avoid the range ending up in landfill, Off-White could look at collecting and reusing the denim fabric for future products.

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Images: Montique, 2019

Men’s Off-White™ Fall 20/21 collection

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Images: Montique, 2020

CONCLUSION whilst remaining commercially viable.

Equally, the range arguably faces challenges in the market climate; from the sizing strategy to recycling of denim. Ways in which these can be overcome have been addressed, and as long as Off-White can deliver meaningful change across the value chain, addressing consumer themes demonstrates an understanding of how to best deliver change towards greater sustainability in the future (State of Fashion, 2020).

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The Sustainable for All range recognises how incorporating recycled fabric and an ethical supply chain, establishes a strategy to deliver greater sustainability in the fashion industry for the future.

Consumer demand for sustainable clothing suggests the range could be successful, as trend-led design and brand values have been addressed. By taking into account transparency and the circular economy, the garments demonstrate how sustainable fabric is suitable for the luxury market,

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APPENDICES Appendix 1: Fit Finder (See pages 51-54) Appendix 2: Product Cost Analysis Jacket

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Shirt

Jeans

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Overall

Appendix 3: Consumption estimates Jacket

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Shirt

Jeans

Overall

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Appendix 4: Estimated Ratio

Appendix 5: Introductory Sales Plan

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Appendix 6: Sales Forecast

Sustainable for All