Historic Nantucket, January 1989, Vol. 37 No. 1

Historic Nantucket

Prince de Neufechatel

January 1989 Published Quarterly by Nantucket Historical Association

NANTUCKET HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION OFFICERS President: H. Flint Ranney Vice President: Mrs. Jane D. Woodruff

Vice President: Mrs. Bracebridge H. Young

Secretary: Mrs. Walker Groetzinger

Treasurer: Robert F. Mooney

Honorary Chairman: Robert Congdon Honorary Vice Presidents

Walter Beinecke, Jr. Mrs. Bernard Grossman

Albert F. Egan, Jr.

George W. Jones

Leroy H. True

Alcon Chadwick Mrs. R. Arthur Orleans

Presidents Emeritus

Edouard A. Stackpole

COUNCIL MEMBERS John Gilbert Mrs. Hamilton Heard, Jr. Mrs. Arthur Jacobsen Reginald E. Levine Mrs. Earle MacAusland Mrs. William Macomber

Mrs. C. Marshall Beale Mrs. Dwight Beman Max N. Berry Mrs. Richard L. Brecker Mrs. James F. Chase John W. Eckman Mrs. H. Crowell Freeman

Nancy A. Martin Mrs. Carl M. Mueller Philip C. Murray Mrs. Judith Powers Charles F. Sayle, Sr. Susan K. Spring Richard S. Sylvia

ADVISORY BOARD Ronald W. Haase William A. Haase Mrs. Robert Hellman Mrs. John Husted Charles A. Kilvert Andrew J. Leddy

Mrs. Robert Bailey Mrs. Charles Balas Mrs. Donna Beasley Patricia A. Butler Charles Butt Mrs. Herbert Gutterson

Mrs. Thomas Loring Mrs. Earle MacAusland William B. Macomber Paul H. Madden F. Blair Reeves Donald E. Terry

STAFF John N. Welch, Administrator Victoria Taylor Hawkins Curator of Collections

Gayl Michael

Mark W. Fortenberry Plant Manager

Jacqueline Kolle Haring

Asst. Curator of Research Materials

Curator of Research Materials

Richard P. Swain

Louise R. Hussey

Miller

Librarian

Bruce A. Courson

Elizabeth Tyrer Executive Secretary

Curator of Museums & interpretations

Trisha Murphy

Edouard A. Stackpole

Bookkeeper

Historian

Elizabeth Little

Leroy H. True

Curator of Prehistoric Artifacts

Richard E. Morcom Asst. Plant Mgr.

Peter S. MacGlashan Registrar

Elizabeth A. Codding Asst. Curator of Collections

Thomas W. Dickson Merchandise Manager

Toby Bjornson

Manager, Whaling Museum

Membership Coordinator

Docents: Alcon Chadwick, Margaret Crowell, Anita Dougan, Edward Dougan, Barbara Johnston,

Jane Jones, Orrin Macy, Elsie Niles, Alfred Orpin, Frederick Richmond, Gerald Ryder, Leigh Simpson, Dorothy Strong, Margaret Trapnell, Mary Witt *** Historic Nantucket *** Editorial Board: Mrs. Dwight Beman, Mrs. James F. Chase, Robert F. Mooney, H. Flint Ranney,

Mrs. Jane D. Woodruff, Mrs. Bracebridge H. Young Editor: Edouard A. Stackpole

Assistant Editor: Merle T. Orleans

Historic Nantucket M

Published quarterly and devoted to the preservation of Nantucket's antiquity, its famed heritaye, and its illustrious past as a whaliny port.

Volume 37

January 1989

No. 1

CONTENTS An Incident During the War of 1812.

The Long Cruise of the Sloop Hawk to Intercept the British Fleet,

by Edouard A. Stackpole

3

Sconset Pride in Sconset History

by John Lacouture

11

Which Way to Sconset?

by Robert F. Mooney

19

Coming to Sconset - Memories

by Harry Tipper, Jr.

25

Remnants of Old Sherburne

by Sharon N. Lorenzo

27

Historic Nantucket (USPS 246-460) is published quarterly at Nantucket, Massachusetts by the Nantucket Historical Association, 2 Union Street, P.O. Box 1016, Nantucket, MA 02554, to which address changes should be sent. Historic Nantucket is sent to Association members and extra copies may be purchased for $3.00 each. © N.H.A. 1988 (ISSN 0439-2248).

Member dues are: Individual $25, Family $40, Supporting $50, Contributing $100, Sponsor $250, Patron $500, Life Benefactor $2,500.

Second-class postage paid at Nantucket, Massachusetts.

Communications pertaining to the publication should be addressed to the Editor, Historic Nantucket, Nantucket Historical Association, Nantucket, Massachusetts 02554.

3

AN INCIDENT DURING THE WAR OF 1812.

THE LONG CRUISE OF THE SLOOP HAWK TO INTERCEPT THE BRITISH FLEET. by

Edouard A. Stackpole The War of 1812 was not a popular one in New England, especial­ ly in Nantucket. An official protest was sent in May, 1812 from Nantucket to the Congress of the United States in the form of a petition representing a gloomy prospect for the island should war develop. The residents of Nantucket had invested a million dollars in the Southern Whale Fishery and with the privation and distress of the War of Independence still well known by many islanders, the ruin of the island appeared obvious. Therefore, Congress was urged to take every honorable means to avoid a war with Great Britain.

Nevertheless, on June 18, 1812, the United States formally declared that a state of war existed with Great Britain and on June 24 the grim news reached Nantucket. The suffering began im­ mediately. The whaler Mount Hope was taken and burned in the Atlantic and her crew was imprisoned. The island's whaling fleet and her coastal vessels bringing supplies from the mainland were easy prey for a host of privateers and British cruisers. The fear of raids from predatory vessels which were expected as fall set in caus­ ed local banks to remove what specie could be spared and to place it for safekeeping on the mainland. A number of residents signed a petition to the President of the United States, James Madison, seeking his aid in drawing up a stipulation with Great Britain whereby the whale and cod fisheries of both nations would be "ex­ empted from the ravages of war." There was no reply.

The privateers proceeded to capture the coastal craft and the British frigates captured Nantucket whaleships in both the Atlan­ tic and Pacific oceans. To add to the island's woes, the United States government levied a tax of $5,000. A special town meeting was held resulting in a vote to have a petition asking for relief forwarded to Congress. Gideon Gardner was to to carry the appeal to Congress.

Reports of plundering on Nantucket by a boat attached to the British frigate Nimrod added to the turmoil. When the raider's crew

4

Historic Nantucket

sent a detail ashore, it took a strong stand by peace-loving citizens to prevent an attack by angry Nantucketers. The United States government was powerless to help the islanders, and the selectmen (Daniel Coffin, Joseph Chase, Francis Macy, Isaac Coffin, George Gardner 2d, and Gideon Folger) decided to send a delegation to the commander-in-chief of the British blockading forces.

The selectmen empowered Silvanus Macy and Isaac Coffin to serve the town as agents of the Selectmen. They were to intercept the commander in chief of the British naval forces on the North American coast. Upon meeting the commander, the commissioners were to represent to him that the people of Nantucket wished to import the necessities of life, including fuel and supplies, and to continue whaling, the only means of livelihood for the inhabitants.

The selectmen who ordered the two commissioners to proceed under these instructions were Joseph Chase, Francis Macy, Daniel Cof­ fin, George Gardner, and George Folger. It was obvious that the ma­ jority of the citizens of the island were supporters of the policies of the Federalists, as opposed to the militant Democrats. The in­ structions were dated July 27, 1814.

The sloop Hawk, under the command of Captain David Starbuck, was engaged for the endeavor. A journal of the affair was kept by Isaac Coffin, Esq., which was, at one time, in the possession of one of his descendants on Nantucket. The first part of this journal is missing, as it commences on August 14, 1814, in the middle of an entry. The sloop had left Nantucket several days earlier and was then entering St. Georges, Bermuda, where, Captain Starbuck had been informed, the commander-in-chief of the British fleet patrol­ ling the New England coast was probably to be found.

Although Captain Starbuck first sailed his sloop to Bermuda, he had been instructed to go to the Chesapeake Bay or elsewhere in seeking the British naval commander and, "To display the white flag on your topmast head, and continue it abroad (as occasion may require), during the time you are considered as a cartel."

On inquiring of the officials in Bermuda, Captain Starbuck was advised that Admiral Cochrane, the British naval commander, had sailed for the Chesapeake. The British frigate Madagascar was soon to sail for the Chesapeake, and Captain Starbuck obtained permis­ sion to sail with the frigate. The sloop Charlotte, captained by George Cartwright of Nantucket, was in Bermuda on a commercial ven­ ture and the sloop Betsy, also of Nantucket, had just arrived with

Cruise of the Sloop Hawk

5

a cargo of sheep from Edgartown. The Nantucket craft exchanged greetings. At this time they learned that Judah Chase's son, William Chase, was a prisoner aboard a prison ship in the harbor. The two Nantucket agents requested that he be released, so he could go aboard the Betsy and return with Captain George Meader. Gover­ nor Cockburn, the British governor in the Bermudas, assured the Nantucket men that the British authorities would attempt such a transaction, but Commander Cochrane, the supreme commander, had issued strict orders that all prisoners be transported to England.

Amiel Elkins, another Nantucket man imprisoned in Bermuda, was allowed to go on board the Hawk by a direct order from Governor Cockburn.

Under the lee of the big frigate Madagascar, the Hawk sailed from Bermuda on Sunday, August 14, 1814, with the Nantucket sloop Charlotte in tow of the frigate. The wind hung steadily.from the east. They hauled a small boat from the Hawk over the stern to caulk her seams and performed other duties. The Madagascar, two transport brigs, plus the two Nantucket craft represented the fleet.

Three days later they determined they were in latitude 34 degrees north and longitude 70 degrees and 46 minutes west, where the sloop ran into rough weather. Isaac Coffin was seasick and remained so for the next two days. Six days later they noted the water was changing color and a haze denoted the appearance of land. The lighthouse and Cape Henry, their objective, were passed on Tues­ day, August 23, 1814. A barge from the imposing 74-gun frigate Asia drew up alongside and forced them to heave-to: and the Hawk took up a position under the stern of the gigantic Asia.

Captain Starbuck was informed by the frigate's master, Captain Skean, that the commander in chief of the British fleet was on board his flagship, then in the Potomac River. Going on board the Asia, the two Nantucket commissioners were invited to dine with Cap­ tain Skean and here they met Peter F. Coffin, Jacob Barney, and Alexander Russell, who had been taken on board the sloop Earl some 60 miles off Cape Henry. The Madagascar then led the Ber­ muda fleet with the Hawk and, augmented by the armed brig Fairy, sailed up the Chesapeake Bay seeking commander-in-chief Admiral Alexander Cochrane and the British fleet in the Potomac.

Arriving in the mouth of the Potomac River, the Nantucket sloop sighted the British fleet in the morning of Tuesday, August 26, 1814, and anchored with them. A violent squall was a doleful welcome,

6

Historic Nantucket

but Captain Starbuck put out his anchors and held firmly during the night. Proceeding in company with the imposing British fleet, the Hawk sailed with the squadron. The Nantucket sloop found herself with seven British frigates, as many line-of-battle ships, an equal number of transports, and many smaller craft. In the Petuxent River at this time were three British admirals, Admiral Alex­ ander Cochrane, Admiral Cockburn, and Admiral Malcome.

On August 29 the Nantucket commissioners were allowed to go on board the frigate Surprise, which was the headquarters vessel for Admiral Cochrane, the commander-in-chief of the British vessels.

They were politely received and invited to return the following day.

The next morning, the Nantucket commissioners formally requested the release of Captain Peter F. Coffin, Jacob Barney, and the crew of a captured Nantucket vessel. The commissioners were inform­ ed by Admiral Cochrane that he did not wish to see the islanders starve, but he could not grant permission for them to go on whal­ ing voyages as Nantucket was still a part of the United States. After a few more questions, the Admiral told the commissioners to return the next morning for a further conference.

The next day, the commissioners went on board only to receive the information that Admiral Cochrane had gone ashore requesting the Nantucket men to follow him there. There was a mix-up in the directions given and the commissioners lingered on board the flagship the rest of the morning, being entertained by the ship's of­ ficers in the wardroom. When Admiral Cochrane returned, he was accompanied by Admiral Malcome and Admiral Carington together with Major-General Ross, the commander of the British forces which were attacking the city of Washington.

Admiral Cochrane insisted he was unable to grant relief for Nan­ tucket, but was sympathetic to her problems. He granted the release of Captain Coffin, Jacob Barney, and Alexander Russell and granted Amiel Elkins permission to return to Nantucket on board the Hawk.

He gave the sloop Charlotte a permit to sail with the Hawk and directed Captain Starbuck to sail to New London carrying dispat­ ches to Admiral Hotham on board a frigate in Gardiner's Bay. On Wednesday, it being the 31st of August, 1814, the sloop Hawk sailed hut lay at the mouth of the Petuxent River until the wind favored them. They sailed out on September 1st and 2nd, 1814, to New Point Comfort and hove to off the frigate Asia. Here they reclaimed the Nantucket prisoners on board by producing Admiral

Cruise of the Sloop Hawk

7

Cochrane's letter obtaining the freedom of Captain Peter Coffin, Captain Jacob Barney, and Alexander Russell and brought them aboard the Hawk. Some supplies were obtained from the frigate, as the Hawk was running short of provisions, it having been a long cruise since leaving Nantucket.

Sailing north, up the sound, the Hawk made a two day passage to the area near Gardiner's Island, where the sloop fell in with the British fleet patrolling the waters of Long Island Sound. Here they met the frigate Narcissus and obtained information concerning the commanding officer of the squadron in these waters. The Hawk then sailed through the "Race," saw the flagship Superb, a 74-gun craft, and hailed her. They were soon aboard to meet Admiral Henry Hotham and to deliver the dispatches from Admiral Cochrane.

Here they learned that a deputation from the Federalist Party on Nantucket comprising Joseph Chase, Zenas Coffin, Josiah Barker, and Aaron Mitchell had been on board all day conferring with Ad­ miral Hotham. Soon after, Isaac Coffin came on board and the Hawk got under way for Nantucket in company with the sloop Charlotte.

A stop was made at Tarpaulin Cove, where Captain Starbuck bought some mutton, gin, potatoes, and other supplies. Here lay the frigate Ponona and the island's nemesis, the sloop Nimrod. Guns were fired, which brought the Hawk to and a boat from the frigate came alongside. After examining the permits from Admiral Cochrane, the Hawk was allowed to continue on her way and on September 10, 1814, at eight o'clock in the evening, they arrived at the wharf at Nantucket.

All that the Nantucket commissioners Coffin and Macy said of the Federalists' conference with Admiral Hotham at Gardiner's Bay was "that some arrangement had been made" between Admiral Hotham and themselves. The Nantucket prisoners were greatly relieved to be home at last and the work of the Nantucket Com­ mission in obtaining their release was duly praised by all hands.

During the conference with Admiral Cochrane, Captain Starbuck was questioned as to whether he knew Samuel Starbuck, who had been a leader of the Nantucket group going to Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, and later to Milford Haven in Wales. The Admiral mentioned the Nantucketers who had accomplished the venture and recom­ mended it be done again, but made no promises respecting the pre­ sent situation on the island.

On August 20, 1814, while the commissioners were meeting with

8

Historic Nantucket

the British Admiral Cochrane in the Chesapeake, Captain Newton in the sloop Nimrod had come to Nantucket. He produced a letter from Admiral Hotham addressed to Nantucket proposing that the island establish a neutral state. Then the admiral would issue per­ mits for Nantucket vessels to import wood and necessary provi­ sions. The selectmen decided to call a special town meeting at the Town House. The attendance was so large that the meeting adjourn­ ed to the public square around the town cistern near the South Quaker Meeting House. The conditions were approved by the meeting and Nantucket agreed not to take up arms against the British forces, not to bear arms to defend any public property, nor to make any opposition against British vessels coming into the har­ bor to refresh.

The opinion of the Nantucketers was that since the United States government was unable to help the island, it could not object to this arrangement, which was intended to avert conditions of severe suffering by the inhabitants. The committee chosen to represent the island and present the findings of the town meeting were Cap­ tain Joseph Chase, Zenas Coffin, Josiah Barker, and Aaron Mitchell.

The day after the town meeting a sloop was sent to Gardiner's Bay with the Nimrod. The Nantucket commissioners were on board to report the town's decision to Admiral Hotham. The British authorities, immediately agreed to the town's request, citing the agreement by Admiral Alexander Cochrane, the British supreme commander.

Another committee was appointed to approach Elbridge Gerry, Vice President of the United States, at his home in Massachusetts and explain the Nantucket situation to him. This was accomplish­ ed and Gerry promised to take the information to Washington when he went there within a few days. A headline in the New Bedford newspaper, The Mercury, declared "Nantucket Neutral." A letter written by a Nantucket resident to a person in Boston was published.

It stated the town's action regarding Admiral Hotham's suggestions of August 22, 1814. According to Admiral Cochrane's instructions of September 8, 1814, Admiral Henry Hotham wrote to the town that under the terms stipulated for the neutrality of the island, Nan­ tucket would not be permitted to pay any direct taxes or internal duties for the support of the government of the United States. No recourse was open to the selectmen but to petition their own govern­ ment to exempt them from all taxation. A town meeting was im-

Cruise of the Sloop Hawk

9

mediately convened and a petition to Congress was drawn up and forwarded to Washington under date of September 15, 1814, re­ questing the exemption stipulated. A second petition was drawn up by the same meeting and sent to Admiral Hotham stating that the conditions outlined in his letter to the town had been agreed upon.

An unexpected development took place on October 10, 1814, when the American privateer Prince de Neufchatel, anchored off Madequecham on the south shore of Nantucket, was attacked by several barges from the British frigate Endymion. The British at­ tempt to capture the privateer was bitterly repulsed by Captain Ordronaux, the French commander of the American craft, and the British were forced to bury their dead on the island's shores. The Nantucket pilot of the privateer, Charles Hilburn, who had gone aboard to pilot the vessel, was among those killed in the action.

Six of the small crew on the Neufchatel were killed and fifteen were severely wounded. The frigate's boats were badly cut up and Cap­ tain Ordronaux took on board the privateer several wounded of­ ficers and men. The British had heavy losses. Due to the position of the privateer within the shoals, the Endymion could not get close enough to bring her broadsides to bear.

When word of the peace arrived on Nantucket in February, 1815, the glad tidings were received by a joyful populace. The island's whaling fleet had suffered greatly despite the gallant actions of Cap­ tain Porter in cutting into the British whaling fleet in the Pacific.

The Nantucket ships captured were the Hope, Alligator, and Rebec­ ca with full cargoes of oil; the Manila, Fame, Edward, and Renown mostly full; and the Gardner, Lion, Sukey, Perseverands,John & James, Mary Ann, and William Penn with partially filled holds; the brig George with 12,000 barrels and the brig Leo. The ship Henry was lost at sea.

Shown on cover: Oil painting by Deryk Foster of the privateer Prince de Neufechatel, shown off the south shore of Nantucket. Given to the NHA by Mr. & Mrs. D. Eric McKechnie.

10

Historic Nantucket

Out of a fleet of forty-six vessels at the outbreak of the war, twenty-three had been captured and one lost at sea, half the total number Nantucket owned. She had been the leading whaling port in the United States and her recovery was slow, but steady. A number of her people moved with their families to other parts of the country. A large number moved as a unit to the Ohio Country.

A group went to New Garden, North Carolina, and among that number were old Nantucket families. Some thirty-six Nantucketers served in the U.S. Navy and aboard privateers stationed in several mainland ports.

The suffering of the poorer people during and following the War of 1812 was extreme and soup kitchens were established. The price of flour rose to $17 a barrel and corn went to $2 a bushel. In Obed Macy's History of Nantucket, the author, who was an eyewitness of the local situation, states, "The charitable hands of females, never closed and never idle, when the sick and naked called for help, were now busily employed in administering to the necessities." The Socie­ ty of Friends was still a powerful influence in the old town.

The recovery of Nantucket's prosperity took four years, but the dogged work of the island merchants paid off. The year 1819 brought a total of fifty-seven ships into the whaling industry and the coasting trade added over half a hundred sloops. Nantucket was now chief­ ly a sperm-whaling port and specialized in spermacetti candles. The population was around 7,000 and the increase in the number of "strangers" to the working class brought about new problems. But the lessons of the War of 1812 were not forgotten by the people of Nantucket for many years to come.

11

Auld Lang Syne. Contemporary photograph by H. Flint Ranney.

SCONSET PRIDE IN SCONSET HISTORY by John Lacouture Having summered for over thirty years in Mr. Underbill's cot­ tage "China Closet," it is only natural that some of his enthusiasm for Sconset and for writing about Sconset rubs off on me. In this article, I shall discuss three facets of Sconset's history that make it such a unique place-one of America's most unusual villages.

First, I shall challenge the Nantucketers as to which house deserves the title of "the Oldest House on Nantucket." Second, I shall make the claim that Sconset was America's first summer resort.

Third, I shall attempt to show that not only is Broadway one of the most picturesque and unusual streets in America, but the oldest street in America. Finally, I want to appeal to all Sconset residents to subscribe to a fund to be set up by the Nantucket Historical Association to purchase "Auld Lang Syne," to restore it from its present dilapidated state to its configuration in the eighteenth cen­ tury, and to open it to the public during the summer months as

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Historic Nantucket

Nantucket's oldest house and an existing survivor of Sconset's old whale houses and fishermen's cottages.

For authorities for my claims, I use the writings of Mr. Underhill, who summered in Sconset from 1878 until his death in 1898 and who wrote much about Sconset, especially about its old fishermen's houses. I use the well researched book by Henry Chandler Forman Early Nantucket and Its Whale Houses. Mr. Forman summered in Sconset all his life, as his family had before him for generations.

Mr. Forman lived in "Nauma" one of Sconset's oldest whale cottages.

A little background: Nantucket was originally settled when Thomas Macy's vessel landed at Madaket in 1659 with a group of English settlers including James Coffin, Edward Starhuck, Isaac Coleman, and their families and household goods. The colony in its early years consisted almost exclusively of persons of British ancestry, mostly English hut also Welsh, Irish, and Scottish.

Whaling started in America in the 1630s and 1640s on Cape Cod and Long Island. It initially consisted of salvaging dead whales either drifting or washed ashore, but soon on Long Island progressed to manning lookout stations and to setting out from the beach in whale boats to harpoon whales seen feeding near shore.

At this time, whales were common close to shore on the ocean side of Nantucket, the eastern and southern shores, during their seasonal migrations that is by the island. It didn't take long for the early settlers to learn the whaling business. By the 1660s-1670s, they had set up four whaling stations-two on the south shore and two on the east shore.

The first eastern shore station was set up at Sesachacha about 1670, with one at Sconset Bank following a few years later.

These stations initially consisted of a tall lookout mast with a seat on top for spotting the whales and of one or more crude whal­ ing huts to shelter the boat crews. These whaling stations ultimately grew in numbers on Nantucket to seven, but by 1760 they were abandoned as Nantucketers began sperm whaling far away from Nantucket's shores. Only Sconset was retained for its good fishing grounds near Pochick Rip. Initially, Sesachacha was the largest whaling/fishing station on Nantucket and by 1676 was a small settlement of about thirty whal­ ing huts. Although somewhat smaller, Sconset also had a number of whaling huts at that time. As years went by, Sconset continued to grow in size, and by 1820 nearly all the surviving whale huts

Sconset Pride In Sconset History

13

iisflff

Mid-Broadway in the summer of 1926. Photograph by Harry B. Turner, editor & publisher of the Nantucket newspaper "The Inquirer and Mirror".

in Sesachacha had been moved either by land or by sea to Sconset.

As Underhill remarked, "What was 'Sachacha's grievous loss, was Sconset's joyful gain."

What were those early whale huts? They were constructed to sleep the six-man crew of a whale boat and consisted of a main room or great hall, two small screened-off staterooms each sleep­ ing two men on cots, and a tiny garret or hanging loft over the staterooms reached by cleats or a ladder, where the other two men slept. The floor was dirt, and initially there was no cooking area.

These beam houses copied similar houses found principally in Wales and sections of England, and their layouts go back fifteen hundred years to the medieval homes of the Anglo-Saxons.

Soon after Sconset and Sesachacha became established as whal­ ing/fishing settlements for the men of Nantucket (possibly as ear­ ly as 1675-76), their families found the Sconset area a very enjoyable place for outings and began spending time there during the sum­ mer months. Obviously the small shacks the whalers used were in­ adequate and uncomfortable for entire families. To begin with, the dirt floors were replaced with wood; then, at the urging of the wives, fireplaces and kitchen areas were added. Windows were installed.

14

Historic Nantucket

Additional rooms, or warts, were added using whatever materials were readily available, including boards and timbers from ships wrecked on the numerous shoals around the island. Barrels to catch rain water for drinking and cooking were installed at the corners of the roofs.

As a result, by the end of the seventeenth century, Sconset was a full-fledged summer resort for the families of Nantucket and cer­ tainly merits the title of America's first summer resort. I strongly urge the people of Sconset to be proud of this distinction and to have an appropriately styled (i.e., unobtrusive) sign put up to this effect.

In the next century, Sconset continued to grow as a summer resort for Nantucket's families. During this time, there were over thirty cottages, and wells were dug for water. The first one was near the South Gulley, and when this went dry in 1776, an appeal was made for donations to dig another well near the present pump in Pump Square.

By 1850, Sconset had over sixty summer homes. The rich Nan­ tucket whalers laid out the broad main street leading into town and began building large summer homes. The town had a village green, several stores, two taverns, a bowling alley, and a billiard saloon.

What is the oldest house on Nantucket? For years, Nantucketers have arbitrarily claimed that the Coffin House, built in 1686 as a wedding present for Jethro and Mary Coffin from their fathers Peter Coffin and John Gardner, was the oldest house on Nantucket. I am convinced the word "on" should be changed to in," since there are several houses in Sconset that research indicates are older than the Coffin House.

After much research, Mr. Forman believes the older portion of "Auld Lang Syne," formerly known as the Henry Coleman House, whose original owner was Michael Coffin, was built in 1675. "Rose Cottage", originally located next to "Auld Lang Syne" and since in­ corporated as part of a large house on Morey Lane, was also believ­ ed by Mr. Forman to have been built in 1675. Mr. Forman sets 1682 as the date the oldest parts of "Shanunga" were built, if anything, erring on the side of being too late. Mr. Forman cites a possibility that parts of "Nauticon Lodge" could have been built by 1685. Final­ ly, although "Nauma," his summer home, has a sign claiming 1676, Mr. Forman does not think it dates back that far. However, the oldest part of the house was floated on a raft from Sesachacha by Reuben

Sconset Pride In Sconset History

15

Cottage on Broadway. Contemporary photo by H. Flint Ranney.

Joy, and Sesachacha was well established as a whaling station by 1676, so Mr. Forman grants the possibility that parts of "Nauma" could date back to 1676.

From the above, it would seem that there are several houses in Sconset that are older than the Coffin House, claimed by Nantucketers as Nantucket's oldest house. Of these, most agree "Auld Lang Syne" is the oldest. For years, "Auld Lang Syne" has remain­ ed in a dilapidated condition, an eyesore to the citizens of Sconset.

It seems a shame that Nantucket's oldest existing house should be allowed to fall apart. I challenge the Nantucket Historical Associa­ tion to set up a fund to purchase and restore "Auld Lang Syne"as nearly as possible to one of its early whale house configurations and to open it during the summer months to visitors. I further challenge the residents of Sconset to contribute generously to this project.

Finally, as to America's oldest and most picturesque street, there is little doubt in my mind that Broadway, named either after the town of Broadway in central England or after Broadway in New York, is America's oldest street as far as European settlers are con-

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Historic Nantucket

cerned. Obviously, some of the Indian pueblo streets in our southwest are far older. Also there are older existing individual houses in America, but nowhere can one find a street that has as many houses dating back to the early beginnings of colonial America.

Initially, Broadway was the third street back from the bank in Sconset, but in 1835 and 1841 storms washed away the street on the bank as well as several homes on it, and Broadway became the second street from the bank. It seems rather amazing that as recently as 1841 the present Codfish Park with all its homes was under water.

To substantiate my claim, let me list the dates of the older homes on Broadway. I'll start with the seventeenth-century house, "Auld Lang Syne", originally owned by Michael Coffin and dating back to 1675; and "Shanunga," also known as "Betsy Cary House" or "Saints Rest," dating back to 1682. In the mid-nineteenth century, under the colorful Betsy Cary," Shanunga" was a tavern and general store, and later, under her equally colorful son-in-law Captain Baxter, it was Sconset's post office. Incidentally, the name "Shanunga" wasn't given the home until Captain Baxter salvaged the wooden lady figurehead from the ship Shanunga wrecked at Tom Nevers Head in 1852. "Nauma," the older parts of which were brought from Sesachacha, possibly dates back to 1676. "Nauticon Lodge" has a date over the door of 1734, but is thought by Mr. Forman to be much older, possibly dating back to the very late seventeenth century and owned at one time by Obed Coffin.

Now for the eighteenth century homes: "Felicite," is an early whale house of the eighteenth-century, owned at one time by John Emmett; "Fredrick M. Pitman House," now "Sea Spray," has a date of 1796 on the wall; "The Maples," formerly the "Eliza Mitchell House," is an early eighteenth century whale house; "Martin Box" was built in 1790, by Obadiah Folger; "Nonquit", for a time "Come Aboard," and now renamed "Nonquit," in 1814 was owned by Ob­ ed Mitchell. A much older house; "Svargaloka," is an eighteenthcentury farmhouse, which belonged to Charles C. Folger, it stood originally on Hawthorn Lane in Nantucket and was moved to Sconset in 1877 by Elijah Alley. "Casa Marina," one of the first eighteenth-century dwellings, dates hack to 1753 or before. "Dexioma," the "Captain Wilbur House," was built in the first half of the eighteenth century. "George Gardner's Cottage," dates to 1751 according to the sign on the house. "House of Lords," said to be

Sconset Pride In Sconset History

17

built by Gershorn Drew, has a date of 1753, which is thought to be approximately correct. For years, the fishermen use to congregate at night in this house and swap sea stories. "Snug Harbor" belong­ ed originally to Seth Folger probably dates back to the late eighteenth-century. "Mizzentop," probably dates back to the late eighteenth century and was occupied in 1821 by Captain Edward Joy's father. "Liberty Hall," originally named "London Tower," is probably late eighteenth-century and was owned in 1814 by Griffen Barney. "Nonatum" (the name means "Welcome"), is a late eighteenth-century whale cottage originally owned by Barzillai Folger. "Columbia Cottage" or "Willow Harp" was built in the ear­ ly eighteenth-century. One of the early owners was Benjamin Bunker, whose mother ran a "tea shop" there. "Eagle Cottage" has a date of 1787 and in 1835 was owned by Samuel Folger. "Lucretia M. Folger House," with a date of 1770, originally belonged to Peter Chase. "Sans Souci," has an interesting history. Part of the house was built in the early eighteenth-century in Nantucket on Trader's Lane as part of a twine factory. The kitchen was a boat house belong­ ing to Mr. Brown; the bricks in the chimney were ballast in the British ship "Queen" wrecked on the Island's shore. Parts of the house were moved originally to Madaket and finally to Sconset in 1814. It was also the first house in Sconset to have its height in­ creased by a second story. An early owner was William Brown.

Finally, "Driftwood," built early in the nineteenth century by George Folger, should be classified as one of Broadway's old homes.

From the preceding list of houses, one finds three houses and possibly four on Broadway built in the seventeenth-century and eighteen houses on Broadway built in the eighteenth-century. I feel certain no other street in America built by Europeans has an older heritage than Broadway. Again, Sconset's citizens should take pride in this historic, unusual, and picturesque street and raise a sign pro­ claiming it as America's oldest street.

18

Historic Nantucket

Cottages on Broadway. Contemporary photo by H. Flint Ranney.

Editorial Note: The discussion about "Auld Lang Syne" in the preceding article reflects the author's personal opinion and not necessarily that of the NHA. We at the NHA have great concern for the preservation of this historic structure in Siasconset and have participated over the past several years in discussions with the Siasconset Civic Associa­ tion, the 'Sconset Trust and the Historic Districts Commission regar­ ding the present condition and possible future of "Auld Lang Syne".

It is our present understanding that the property is tied up in litiga­ tion which prevents its sale to anyone and that upon a successful con­ clusion of this litigation, there is a buyer for the property who intends to preserve and maintain it in an appropriate manner. The NHA stands ready to be a vehicle to assure the preservation of this building and others like it when it is possible to do so.

19

Siasconset Road vividly showing numerous ruts. ca. 1890

WHICH WAY TO SCONSET? fey Robert F. Mooney Modern travelers from Nantucket Town have little problem and less choice in finding their way to the village of Sconset. The Milestone Road is the logical choice and the straightest line for the seven-and-one-half mile journey. Such was not always the case, and the Nantucketers who lived at the turn of the twentieth-century used many means to make the trip. The story of the various routes to Sconset tells a tale in the changing history and development of the island.

Before the paving of the Milestone Road in 1910, traffic to Sconset was carried on by horse-drawn wagons or carriages, moving over a pattern of rutted roads from town. With typical Nantucket in­ dependence, the horses and drivers chose whatever route seemed most hospitable or convenient for the journey. Thus, there developed a series of rutted roads, often running side by side, wandering over the moors and around natural obstacles, sometimes intersecting,

20

Historic Nantucket

but always meandering in the general direction of Sconset. Depen­ ding on weather and road conditions, the drivers took one route or another, shifting as the ruts became clogged with sand or mud, and always seeking better footing or smoother riding for the trip.

Harry Gordon, born on a Polpis farm, was once asked how long it took for a horse and wagon to make the trip from town to Sconset.

His answer was, "About two hours; but then, it depended on the horse." The present Milestone Road was an early route to Sconset, yet the Ewer Map of 1869 describes it as the "New Sconset Road," indicating that other and older roads existed. Peter Ewer laid out the present milestones in their locations in 1824. They were mov­ ed twice, once over to the Hinsdale Road, known as the Middle Sconset Road, and then back to the state road location. Like all roads to Sconset, the Milestone Road began at the end of Orange Street, where the First Milestone is located near the present Rotary. The road is today mostly lined with scrub pine trees that preserve the scenery but limit the view to either side. If one were to plunge into the pines beside the road, one would still find traces of the old rut­ ted roads. New development near the Second Milestone has open­ ed the woods to reveal substantial lines of overgrown rutted roads, some covered with large pine trees but clearly defined as old roads to Sconset. Most of the roads were simply abandoned when the main road was completed, but some retain their vitality and usefulness today.

The Old South Road also started at the First Milestone and is today the road to Nantucket Memorial Airport. In the old days, it was a favorite road for reaching the many farms in that area, as it led half way to Sconset before turning north toward Saul's Hills.

It has now been ended at the airport by runway extensions, which create a dead end.

Between the Milestone Road and the Old South Road ran the famous Hinsdale Road, named for the Hinsdale Farm in the area.

This was another popular road, running parallel to the Milestone for most of its length until it joined that road at the summit of Bean Hill, the rise which gives travelers their first view of Sankaty Light and the village of Sconset.

East of Bean Hill, all roads merged into the Milestone Road to cross the small creek known as King Phillip's Run and avoid the

Which Way To Sconset?

21

State Road to Siasconset under construction in 1894

morass of Tom Never's Swamp. Because of this swamp to the south and the swamp land around the Cranberry Bog to the north, the roads to Sconset could go nowhere else.

Second only to the Milestone Road in importance was the Polpis Road, a very old way dating back to the earliest settlement of the island, when some of the earliest farms were located in Polpis, Quaise, and Shimmo to take advantage of the fertile soil and water supply in the area. Thus the route of Polpis Road was largely dic­ tated by natural features such as Folger's Creek, Shawkemo Hills, and the swamps near Quidnet. It was a long and winding road used mainly by the Polpis farmers, who seldom took pleasure trips.

The simplicity of life on a Polpis farm was illustrated by the story of the Polpis farm girl who was taken to Sconset for the first time at the age of ten, and marvelled at the great number of houses, think­ ing Sconset to be a big city.

The Polpis Road was another route to Sconset, but its poor con­ dition and clay surface made it impassable many times during the year. Thus the Polpis farmers often used another road across the moors to town and Sconset when the footing was better. This was the well-defined rutted road known as the Poot Pond Road, which

22

Historic Nantucket

Polpis Road to Siasconset, 1902.

Harry Gordon always referred to as the "Foot Pond Road." This road started from the Polpis Road east of the Milestone Road in­ tersection (near the present paddle tennis court), and traveled over the moors past the three Poot Ponds into the hills to rejoin the Polpis Road. It was not a practical route but it crossed some of the most scenic land on the island and eventually became a popular cruise across the moors. It is still a good road for hiking and driving in good weather. For some reason, the state has barricaded the short stretch through the State Forest with unsightly metal gates, which should be removed, as the way is still a public way which should be preserved for public use.

The famous old Nantucket Railroad, which existed from 1884 to 1917, had its own route to Sconset. The railroad ran from Steam­ boat Wharf along the Washington Street area to the Goose Pond, crossed Orange Street near Hatch's store to Pleasant Street, and ran south of the Rotary to enter the pines near Wannacomet Water Com­ pany. There the line ran due east to Tom Nevers, where it dove down the bank to cross the beach near Tom Nevers Pond and con­ tinue into Sconset, where it terminated below the Bank at the pre­ sent Summer House pool and patio. The roadbed to the railway is

Which Way to Sconset?

23

Road to Siasconset. View from Folger's Hill to Shawkemo Farms, ca. 1890.

still plainly visible where it crosses the moors and valleys but has disappeared in the development around Tom Nevers. Nantucket Boy Scouts used to win merit badges by following its route from Town to Sconset. The most recent route to Sconset is the Sconset Bicycle Path, constructed along the Milestone Road to Sconset by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts as a result of a special act of the legislature in 1960. This was the first bicycle path in the state ever constructed with state funding, and it was dedicated by the noted Boston heart specialist, Doctor Paul Dudley White, an ad­ vocate of bicycling for health and exercise. The Sconset bike path has proven so popular it has later been duplicated by town bicycle paths to Surfside and Madaket, with a Polpis Road path next.

We have seen at least eight ways to Sconset during this century, and each one has a tale to tell about that end of the island. In the present day, we may see the need to have more ways to Sconset: one for bicycles, one for mopeds, one for joggers, one for walkers, one for sightseers, and one for people who just want to get there.

Broadway cica. 1910

25

COMING TO SCONSET - MEMORIES by

Harry Tipper, Jr. Part of nearly every one of some seventy years, except for the war years, I have spent in Sconset and memories have blended together. I have only snatches of memories from the first summer, 1917.

Mother had a hard time that winter. She already had a very ac­ tive six-year-old boy, me. Then came a three-year-old girl, and that fall she had twins, a boy and a girl. The head nurse at the hospital had maintained a friendship with mother and suggested to her that the healthy air and ozone of Sconset would do her and her family a world of good. She arranged details of the trip; we would leave from Pier 14, North River, Manhattan, transfer to the Nantucket boat at New Bedford and take the train from Nantucket to Sconset.

Easier said than done!

When we climbed down from the train station in Sconset, we were directed across Gully Road and up the wooden stairs to the street level. The road led directly past the red-painted ticket office across from John the Barber's little shop and onto Broadway. Our cottage turned out to be the first on the left under the lamp post on Broadway. There was a kerosene lantern on top of the post at the corner, and the lamplighter appeared every evening with his ladder and kerosene to light the lantern. The bright lights of Broad­ way! At the cottage, Miss Hussey, a retired school teacher, explain­ ed to Mother and the nurse all the ins and outs of running a Sconset cottage. During many summers in that cottage we learned all about it. In fact, Dad finally bought it.

In the course of the summer, which was the last summer for the train, I learned to beg for rides from the conductor in the railroad station. Sometimes he would let us ride the couple of hundred yards from Sconset to the Beachhouse where there was another "station", or at least a platform.

I remember being terribly sunburned, so badly Mother had to borrow an express wagon to cart me around. Later that summer, Mother hired Jimmy Coffin and his big three-seater buggy to drive us to town for the day for a picnic and sight-seeing.

In the summer of 1917, the Walter Beineckes were living on

26

Historic Nantucket

Sankaty Road near Brownie Freeman's house. The Beinecke cot­ tage is still there and is noted for the long flight of steps leading up to the front porch. After we left the island that summer, Dad, Mother, my sister and I were invited to Baltusrol by Walter Beinecke.

Dad was recognized in many quarters as a comer and Mr. Beinecke had a family who shared his interest in Sconset.

Another memory which is vivid in many minds is of the time when Woodrow Wilson came to Sconset to visit his daughter, Frances Sayre. Mother told me to play by the fence so I could watch the President go by. A convoy of buggies turned up Shell Street.

I don't remember that I was so much impressed by the President as by the noise and excitement. Along with other kids I shouted my enthusiasm when he drove by.

As you must know, summers in Sconset are a time of joy and fun and magic. Days are bright with sun, sand, and sea water. There are tennis, golf, swimming, and sailing. Nights lit by the moon and stars linger in thoughts and memories. It is no wonder the memories of Sconset days and nights accompany us throughout our lives.

The Nantucket Historical Association is actively soliciting contribu­ tions of material for Historic Nantucket. We would be delighted to have our members and friends submit articles, anecdotes, remembrances and photographs for possible publication in future issues. As an ex­ ample, we are planning to print a history of the Nantucket Fire Depart­ ment and are seeking information about personal experiences and photographs of fires as well as articles on this subject. Please contact Mr. H. Flint Ranney, 228-2522, or Mr. John N. Welch, 228-1894, for further information.

27

REMNANTS OF OLD SHERBURNE by

Sharon N. Lorenzo As a new visitor to Nantucket ten years ago, I was intrigued by its history with so many remnants of its past still intact. After a few rainy days in the Peter Foulger Museum and at the Registry of Deeds for the town, I learned that most landowners have the unique opportunity of tracing their deeds all the way back to their original owners.

Our family is thrilled to be new neighbors of the old Sherburne town, which was tucked away on the western shore of Capaum Pond. As we carefully sifted our soil for ancient artifacts, we found that our spot on the eastern shore of the pond had been relatively uninhabited since the early settlers preferred the leeward protec­ tion of the other shore. When a new home was completed near the head of Capaum Pond (in the spring of 1986), the excavation pro­ duced arrowheads dated more than 10,000 years old, as examined

by NHA archeologist, Elizabeth Little.

In his history of Nantucket's architectural past, Clay Lancaster noted that the early first settlers found a sheltered harbor open to the sea with at least three thousand Indians on the island, divided into six villages. One can imagine the site in the early autumn with simple wigwams made of bent saplings huddled close to the har­ bor. Because the Algonquins were friendly, fourteen families were convinced to settle on Nantucket and early maps show that each one chose a homesite in the vicinity of Capaum Pond. The first pro­ prietor's meeting was held on July 15, 1661, and by 1673, the set­ tlement was baptized "Sherburne", memorializing the ancestral village in England of John and Richard Gardner.

Tristram Coffin, who had been the original organizer of the Nan­ tucket venture in Salisbury, Massachusetts controlled a great por­ tion of the land around Capaum due to the shares allocated to his three sons and son-in-law. Tristram's oldest son, Peter, owned vast timberlands and a saw mill in Exeter, New Hampshire, and he was deeded the land which is now ours on the eastern shore of the pond.

His timber provided much of the lumber for the early buildings of Sherburne, which historians estimate numbered about fifty. Peter s

28

Historic Nantucket

oldest son, Jethro built the "Oldest House", still standing above West Chester Street, with lumber from New Hampshire.

After searching the town records, I was pleased to learn from Betty Little that the original deed to Tristram Coffin from the In­ dian chief Wannacomet is in the Albany State House, signed with an "X". The island of Nantucket was not transferred from the col­ ony of New York to the Massachusetts colony until 1692.

Lancaster's book includes an index of current structures which reportedly were moved from Capaum to the new town when a storm closed the harbor with a large sandbar in 1717. Only two markers near the pond commemorate the old town. A marble marker on the north shore stands in the bushes marking the original homestead of Tristram Coffin. A large granite marker above Maxcy's Pond marks the common grave of the original shareholders buried at the site of the Old North Shore Meeting House. This wooden struc­ ture was moved into town and exists as the old vestry behind the first Congregational Church on Academy Hill. Because religious freedom was one of the motivating factors for the early Sherburne settlers, it is significant that the meeting house still stands. (In Boston, two Quaker men and one woman had been hanged in 1650 after a bitter feud broke out between the Baptists and the Quakers.)

When the pond closed and a vote was taken to move the Sherburne settlement nearer to the main harbor, the name was also changed due to the confusion caused by another Sherburne settlement on the mainland. About that time, the Nantucket settlement of Sher­ burne had a church, a jail, and the Town House for political business.

It is fascinating to speculate as to how these dwellings were moved the long distance to town in the early 1700s. One can only imagine horse drawn sleds with houses guided by ropes to hold the primitive structures together. A current owner of an older structure on Main Street was able to locate his old foundation near the head of Capaum Pond, consisting of a mass of stones upon which the frame had been built. Current repairs also revealed extensive layers of seaweed behind the walls used as early insulation.

Thanks to the research of Lancaster and others, we can continue to search for remnants of old Sherburne.

Following is the list of existing structures which are supposed to have been moved from Capaum Pond to town. If you have any additions or corrections to this list, please let me hear from you.

Remnants of Old Sherburne

ADDRESSES: 10 Ash Street 43 Centre Street 52 Centre Street 62 Centre Street 10 Fair Street 9 Howard Street 12 Liberty Street 105 Main Street 107 Main Street

111 Main Street 126 Main Street 139 Main Street 9 Milk Street 11 Milk Street 9 New Mill Street 26 Orange Street 1 Tattle Court 10 Martins Lane

Bibliography: Clay Lancaster, The Architecture of Historic Nantucket Probate Records of Nantucket, Vol. A Nantucket Historical Association, Vol. 1, 1904

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Historic Nantucket

Siasconset Railroad Station ca. 1895.

The Nantucket Historical Association is a nonprofit educational corporation [501 (c) (3):] which serves both the permanent and seasonal populations of the island community and which owns and manages fifteen museums and historic houses.

Bequests and gifts to the Nantucket Historical Association are tax deductible as allowed by law. They are greatly needed and appreciated.