Historic Nantucket, Spring 1988, Vol. 35 No. 4

Historic Nantucket

Brant Point Lighthouse For the past 82 years this beacon has guarded the entrance to Nantucket Harbor.

Spring, 1988 Published Quarterly by Nantucket Historical Association

NANTUCKET HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION OFFICERS President: H. Flint Ranney Vice President: Reginald Levine Vice President: Mrs. Bracebridge Voung Secretary: Mrs. Walker Groetzinger Treasurer: Donald E. Terry Honorary Chairman: Robert Congdon Honorary Vice Presidents Albert F. Egan, Jr Albert Brock Walter Beinecke, Jr. Mrs. R. Arthur Orleans Mrs. Bernard Grossman Alcon Chadwick George W. Jones

Presidents Emeritus Leroy H. True

Edouard A. Stackpole

COUNCIL MEMBERS Mrs. Kenneth Baird Mrs. Dwight Beman Max N. Berry Mrs. James F. Chase John W. Eckman Mrs. H. Crowell Freeman

John Gilbert Mrs. Hamilton Heard, Jr. Mrs. John G.W. Husted Mrs. Arthur Jacobsen Charles A. Kilvert Nancy A. Martin Robert F. Mooney

Mrs. Carl M. Mueller Mrs. Judith Powers Charles F. Sayle, Sr. Susan K. Spring Mrs Jane D. Woodruff Robert A. Young

ADVISORY BOARD Patricia A. Butler Charles Carpenter Mrs. Charles Capenter Stuart P. Feld

Ronald W. Haase William A. Hance Mrs. Robert Hellman Andrew J. Leddy Mrs. Thomas Loring

Mrs. Earle MacAusland William B. Macomber Paul Madden F. Blair Reeves

STAFF John N. Welch, Administrator Victoria Taylor Hawkins Bruce A. Courson Curator of Collections Curator of Museums & Interpretation Jacqueline Kolle Haring Edouard A. Stackpole Curator of Research Materials Historian Leroy H. True Louise R. Hussey Librarian Manager, Whaling Museum Elizabeth Tyrer Wilson B. Fantom and Mark W. Fortenberry Executive Secretary Plant Managers Katherine Ayotte Peter S. MacGlashan Bookkeeper Registrar Katherine Walker Elizabeth Little Curator of Prehistoric Artifacts Asst. Curator of Collections Thomas W. Dickson Gayle Michael Asst. Curator of Research Merchandise Manager Materials Georgiann L. Phipps Richard P. Swain Miller Director of Development Docents: Suzanne Beaupre, Alcon Chadwick, Tamar Chizewer, Marjorie Corey, Roscoe Corey, Margaret Crowell, Anita Dougan, Edward Dougan, Barbara Johnston, Jane Jones, Elsie Niles, Alfred Orpin, Frederick Richmond, Gerald Ryder, Dorothy Strong, Mary Witt. * * * Historic Nantucket *** Edouard A. Stackpole, Editor Merle T. Orleans, Assistant Editor

Historic Nantucket Published Q u a r t e r l y and d e v o t e d t o t h e p r e s e r v a t i o n of Nantucket's a n t i q u i t y , its f a m e d h e r i t a g e and its illustrious p a s t a s a whaling p o r t .

Volume 35

Spring, 1988

No. 4

CONTENTS Nantucket Historical Association Officers and Staff

2

Editorial: Guarding Traditional Landscapes and Habitats

5

Philip Morris - 'Sconset's Postmaster for almost thirty-five years. Part 1

by John C. Lathrop

6

"Proceedings Needed"

12

"My Sea-Faring Family", Chapters 9 and 10

by Nancy Grant Adams

13

Memoirs of Nantucket

by Deborah Coffin Hussey Adams abstracted by Emil F. Guba, Ph.D..

25

Bequests/Address Changes

30

"The Quaker's House"

by Eleanor Dixon Glidden

31

Historic Nantucket (UPS 246-160) is published quarterly at Nantucket, Massachusetts by the Nantucket Historical Association. It is sent to Association members and extra copies may be purchased for $3.00 each.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Nantucket Histocial Association, P.O. Box 1016, Nantucket, MA 02554. c. N.H.A. 1986 (USSN 0439-2248).

Members dues are: Individual $15., Family $25., Supporting $50., Contributing $100., Sponsor$250., Patron $500., Life Benefactor $2,500.

Second-class postage paid at Nantucket, Massachusetts.

Communications pertaining to the Publication should be addressed to the Editor, Historic Nantucket, Nantucket Historical Association, Nantucket, Massachusetts 02554.

5

Guarding Traditional Landscapes and Habitats. by Edouard A. Stackpole THE LAST FEW YEARS have seen a drastic change in the environs of the old town, especially as regards the southern part, with housing developments and buildings taking over a major portion of the land­ scape. While changes are inevitable, the outlying land, outside the perimeter of the old town, demands a closer scrutiny, a more careful and thoughtful appraisal. As once these areas are taken over by the pre­ sent race for land they become lost in the insatiable desire to acquire.

To protect this part of the island should be foremost in the minds of all Nantucketers, both native and summer resident, both visitors who are spending a few days and islanders who are permanent residents.

The Conservation Foundation and other similar organizations have done a great deal to save the land from developers but the townspeople must also "lend a hand". The fragile character of the heathland, once called the commons, or the moors, needs protection as never before, as once these areas are swallowed up they will have vanished from the scene forever.

If there is one single characteristic on the island which needs protec­ tion it is the atmosphere of the past which the "commons" enjoys to­ day. The old days are revealed in a glance. While the Saul's Hills area is now well protected, the west end of Nantucket has almost been forgot­ ten. On the road to Madaket there are vistas which deserve careful thought and preservation. Stretching off to Capaum Pond way, the spread of houses has defaced the landscape, and isolated dwellings have sprung up in places there that destroy the whole character of the sweep of the land.

To view the "commons" brings out a better appreciation of the past, an awareness of the trials and triumphs of the first settlers, who sought this isolated land to create a home, deliberately placing themselves apart from the mainland settlements. For decades they lived in a splen­ did isolation — in a remote place with the sea all around them. The com­ ing of the whaling industry and the adoption of the tenets of the Society of Friends helped mould them into a race of sea hunters known throughout the world.

How to preserve these visible land vistages of the island's past means the immediate partnership of all islanders whether summer or perma­ nent residents. Nantucket's remarkable and proud past needs a re­ statement through the vistas of the land. The cooperation of all who wish to see the legacy of history revived into a modern telling force will lead the way to the better protection of this land, its last link with the past.

— Edouard A. Stackpole

6

Philip Morris - 'Sconset's Postmaster For Almost Thirty-Five Years

by John C. Lathrop Philip Morris had his eighty-ninth birthday October 4th in 'Sconset where he was born. He is the oldest living male who was born there.

Phil became the first male postmaster in 'Sconset where he served with distinction for almost thirty-five full years. He was the third child born to Charles Coffin Morris and Etta Bartlett Morris. The place of birth of the five Morris children is a comfortable farmhouse on a good-sized plot just two blocks north of the Post Office, the center of the village.

The house was one of three properties on a snug spur called Shell Ter­ race which projected west from Shell Street, just before it is intersected

by Broadway. Soon Shell Terrace became King Street and continued west to join West Sankaty Avenue.

Phil's father was a large, tall, imposing man distinguished by the popular full mustache of the time. He was considered a moral, cons­ cientious, hard working man who set high standards for himself and his family. His wife had no problem with respecting and reinforcing these standards. "Charlie" Morris thought of himself as a fisherman, although he probably spent as much time on farming, "hacking", teaming, pain­ ting, lighting the lamps of 'Sconset and pitching into a haystack of most assorted odd jobs. He kept chickens around his house as did his neighbor, Eddie Coffin, across the street. Both men raised pigs and had several barns and sheds necessary for keeping horses and cows.

The three Morris cows were the responsibility of the two older boys, Albert and Phil. The boys drove the cows to pasture going cross lots north and west of Shell Street, and just beyond Emily Street to a plot of several acres. Early evening was milking time. Each boy took on his favorite cow. The third cow presented a problem. Neither boy wanted the job but a solution was found. The father thought the solution was interesting enough to invite his fellow farmers to witness it from time to time. Albert had his stool on one side of the cow while Phil placed his on the other. Phil's efforts equalled those of Albert, but no more.

The cow appeared to be contented with the arrangement. Milk for the route was delivered by the boys almost immediately. It sold for eight cents the quart.

An important occupation for Charlie Morris led to another chore of the Morris boys. Sixteen or eighteen men, most of whom were from 'Sconset, were in the habit of keeping large dories at 'Sconset beach.

The catching of cod had become an important cash business. Each man worked by himself. A dory and the knowledge of how to use it in the surf was essential.

The lateral tide off 'Sconset presented no problem. Landing the heavy dory with a good catch was another matter. Winds and heavy waves were expected in the deep water at the shore line. It took excellent time

8

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

control to keep the boat headed toward the shore, and ready to be pro­ pelled by a cresting wave and a strong thrust of the oars for a landing up the beach. The oarsman must jump to the sand as the boat grounds.

A mighty haul is needed to defeat the backwash.

The catch was worth about fifty cents per fish but only after each fish had been dried. Each fisherman prepared his own drying racks high on the beach. It fell to the boys to turn the fish and protect the catch from fog. The process took place before and after school.

Phil used his knowledge of housekeeping chores at home by becom­ ing a fire-tender, ashman and cleaner at the Post Office. Almost next to his home he took on a harder maintenance job in a miniature house used as a men's club, the Srail Club. This was far from pleasant work but his self discipline could cope with it. There may have been a con­ nection between this work and his rather fastidious maturity. He and his only sister, about four years older, signed a temperance pledge about 1912. Phil had no interest in alcohol, smoking, nor even coffee or tea.

He, however, loves ice cream and enjoys it daily.

About the only time the three older Morris boys, Albert, Phil and Everett worked together away from home was at the Burgess Market at the head of Broadway, under old Mr. Burgess whom they admired.

Maria Folger Holden was the friendly, pleasant cashier. She was capable and reassuring in a happy place. In time she married Harry Holden, an early electrical and radio pioneer. As late as the 1950's Mrs. Holden was the collector of bills for the 'Sconset Water Company.

Mr. Burgess often made a humorous statement about his boys. In his high-pitched voice he pronounced "One boy equals one boy Two boys equals one-half boy, and Three boys makes no boys at all."

In spite of this, Mr. Burgess liked the boys. Phil had great respect for him and thinks of him always as a fine gentleman.

Albert Morris became a carpenter - first in 'Sconset, then in Nantucket for James Holmes, and finally off the island. He had married the hand­ some Sarah Pitman.

Everett Morris painted houses. He married Ethel Belden who was one of three sisters from northern New Jersey. They eventually took over the family homestead. She worked for the Wiley family at the Chan­ ticleer and was very valuable to Bob Wiley, when he owned and ran the Moby Dick Inn and cottages. Preston Morris, the youngest member of the Morris family, left Nantucket to work for the telephone company on the mainland.

Char he Morris was not one to ask his children to do anything he would not do. One of the very hard jobs he undertook, was the painting of the outside of the Sankaty Lighthouse. He was the single bidder for the work He worked alone with only the aid of a breeches buoy. While this job has been accomplished by teams from time to time, its most recent pain-

PHILIP MORRIS, 'SCONSET'S POSTMASTER

9

ting, a job effort of experts from the Coast Guard, saw about a dozen men arrive by giant helicopter with all gear and supplies. A number of days were required. Local men - about 15 at a time - appeared to be busy spectators qualifying as sidewalk superintendents.

One of Phil's adult friends outside of his extended family of relatives was a worldly and motherly lady named Louise Streeter Warren who lived on Shell Street only a few houses from the present Post Office. Her small house was called Hop Cottage and, later, Waldorf Astoria. It was a gem-like place. Mrs. Streeter Warren had found her way to 'Sconset via Detroit and Europe. Her background was cosmopolitan from years of travel, and she spent most of her time in writing about cultural im­ pressions and unusual experiences.

The lady found Phil's ambition, alertness and curiosity attractive. She was happy to talk to him, and he, in turn, enjoyed her attentions, stimula­ tion and her very well told stories. Marshmallows before a famous fireplace, often cakes - other goodies - in the early evening, of course, had their appeal. Friends of Phil's were entertained as well. Thus the young were exposed, and some different ways and attitudes became possible.

The house had come to Mrs. Warren in 1905 from the estate of Samual Swain. Toward the end of his time in 'Sconset she had owned its first hotel. This three story building stood on the north side of Main Street.

It was, by 1920, owned by Mr. David Gray, turned and changed under the direction of Frederick P. Hill, later owned and occupied by Mr. Roy Larsen and his family.

Guglielmo Marconi, inventor, "wizard of wireless," first came to the United States in late 1899 about the time David Sarnoff, an eleven year old immigrant from Minsk, Russia, arrived at the east side of lower Manhattan. They met in late 1906 and early 1907. In September, 1906, through the help of a telegraph operator, Jack Irwin, David had become office boy at the Marconi Company, 27 William Street, New York. Since 1902 the small company had had four ships equipped for Marconi wireless. In 1908 Jack Irwin was one of four at the 'Sconset station. When he wished to go to sea for a time, David Sarnoff replaced him.

Phil Morris and Warren Rogers probably knew David Sarnoff when they were first bicycle messengers for the Post Office, the Telegraph Office and the Wireless Station. They also had to be interested in this very different young man who was quiet, obviously ambitious, studious, hard working, lived under Oscar Folger's roof, ate there but by himself, and was known to make many trips to Nantucket when he was off duty.

General messenger boys, on old bicycles, learned the village - up north, over south, to and from the Marconi Station as it moved. Phil has a "golden" memory: as part of a great promotion Jim Jeffers fought Jack Johnson - all fifteen rounds. The report of the rounds went out by wireless. Phil was engaged to carry each report to the colorful actor, Bob Hilliard. In exchange for the last report Phil was handed a $5 bill.

Mrs. Morris and Phil started, in 1913, an ice cream business in a shed

10

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

on the family property on King Street. A tent was used soon after on land belonging to Willy Jernegan probably in front of a barn used as an ice house. The land was later used by the famous Srail Club, then

by Chris Holland's dwelling.

A small two story shelter behind the large Phillips Block housed the Morris' ice cream business until it burned to the ground on October 29, 1924, at midnight, and along with the unfortunate Phillips Block. "Daisy Cot", just west of Pump Square and Larry Welch's grocery, was the home of Morris' Ice Cream until the 1930s. For years Phil worked hard to make the ice cream. He could make twenty quarts at once, but the freezers were hand ground. Much later a motor was used for this task.

Seven varieties of ice cream was the normal production. Pistachio was always popular as was frozen pudding, ginger, coffee, peach and the more usual flavors, vanilla and chocolate. Some ices appeared from time to time.

"To prepare for a day of production, it was Phil's late-in-the-day duty to drive his Ford pick-up to the ice house in town to pick up three onehundred pound blocks of ice for the next day's use. Oscar Folger, 'Sconset's freight man, brought over the Morris order of extra cream which came by boat. There was a time in the early years when Phil took ice cream by wheelbarrow down the Middle Gully to the main beach.

Over the years most sold from "Daisy Cot". Etta Morris had the reputa­ tion for 'Sconset while the Worth family on Main Street near the Monu­ ment was chosen in Town. The families came to cooperate in ordering supplementary cream from "off" and in other ways. Secrets of manufac­ ture were not exchanged. Phil still holds in his head a perfect formula for peach ice cream.

Every family with boys in 'Sconset and their counterparts in other parts of the Island considered the County Agricultural Fair to be the high point of each summer. They looked forward to it. They could scarce­ ly wait for those great days to arrive. The Morris boys - Albert, Phil, and Everett - were, as most other boys, ready to walk their cows'to the Fairgrounds near the first milestone in Nantucket Town. They probably had exhibited small pets they had raised and special vegetables they had grown. All boys, and most of their fathers, knew what horses were being sent over from Brockton to race our local horses in the trotters and pacers classes. Island horses, sulkies and drivers had been train­ ing for months at the grounds and elsewhere. The excitement grew from day to day.

The Annual Report of 1935, under the World War One listed members of the Armed Forces, the Merchant Marine and others in war zones pur­ suing the war. In 1918 there were twenty in the Navy including Albert Morris who was "overseas." Brother Everett was, possibly, almost in the same place, "overseas," but in the Merchant Marine. Phil Morris and Warren Rogers were in Boston at Radio School before going "overseas."

To more than three people in 'Sconset the High School class of 1918

12

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

was a very special class. Three youths in 'Sconset, Irene Cash, Blan­ che Rogers and Phil Morris had progressed through the school system together. They were, probably, in only two school buildings. The first one, of course, was on School Street in 'Sconset in the original building.

The second was the old building on Academy Hill in town. The High School class started with fifty-two scholars but ended with only eleven.

Blanche Rogers led the class and became a teacher, mostly in 'Sconset, for the greater part of her adult life. Irene Cash married, although few knew of it, and spent much time in Washington, D.C. Phil was the tallest in the class, perhaps the handsomest and, probably, knew the most of the world.

(To be concluded in next issue.)

Nantucket Historical Society "Proceedings" Requested by the Association.

THE COLLECTION of "Proceedings" at the Peter Foulger Museum still needs to have certain additions for its complete file. If you have any copies of the following, Mrs. Jacqueline Haring, at the Peter Foulger Museum, would like to receive them. Those needed are the following years: 1899, 1900, 1909, 1920, 1921, 1922, 1930, and 1941.

13

"My Sea-Faring Family"

by Nancy Grant Adams We continue in this issue of Historic Nantucket the story of Nancy Grant, who in 1949, made the first voyage of a Nantucket woman on a whaleship, the POTOMAC. Chapter 9 Nancy Goes to Sea on the POTOMAC "Some men go down to the sea in ships, while there are others who skim across it literally to 'do business' on the great waters."

"The sea to mariners is but a highway. To the whaler it is his field of harvests, the home of his business."

Charles Grant was now a master mariner and the sea was certainly the home of his business. He and his wife Nancy were about to share the experience of "sea-faring", and Charles felt a bit anxious about how it would be with a woman on board.

Stout-hearted Nancy had the daring and the intrepidity to want to go to sea. She would rather embark with her husband than stay at home waiting for four years. Everyone admired the fortitude and solidity of Charles, who had not only the ship under his command but the wife and possible children to cause him worry.

The POTOMAC, a 365-ton ship was built at Rochester, Mass., in 1841.

Her first voyage was in 1841 with Capt. Isaac B. Hussey, Master, retur­ ning in 1845. From 1845-1849 she was skippered by Capt. Oliver Swain.

On this voyage her First Mate Joseph T. Upham was killed by a whale.

Charles was to take her out from 1849-53. In this year he had purchas­ ed l/32nd part of the ship from Thomas Macy for $468. The sale was recorded in the Custom House by William H. Waite, Deputy Collector.

Her other owners were Isaac, Thomas, and Phillip Macy, Elihu Swain, Oliver C. Swain, David Mitchell, George Fitch and Edward R. Folger.

The log of this voyage is owned by the Nantucket Historical Associa­ tion and was available to the writer.

An ingenious "Camels" was built in 1842 by Peter Ewer, for carrying ships over the Nantucket bar. This was a floating-dock, sunk to the water's edge. The ship was hauled in, the water, in compartments, pumped out. This lifted the vessel to such a height that it could easily be towed over the bar. After a few years use this unique dry dock did not prove too successful, so they were hauled onto the beach and slowly rotted to pieces on the Pest-House shore of the Nantucket Harbor.

About 1 p.m. on August 7,1849, the POTOMAC went out of Nantucket in the Camels, towed by steamers MASSACHUSETTS and TELEGRAPH. She anchored outside the bar at 3 p.m. and her pilot left at 8 p.m. Next morning she stowed her anchors and at that time there were forty sail in sight. Charles set his course for the Western Islands.

14

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

He had signed on Reuben Hobbs as 1st Mate, Benjamin Gorham 2nd Mate, and John Swain, Kanaka, as 3rd Mate. He had a trim ship and all looked well for a good voyage. Nancy settled down in her snug quarters and started to unpack the chests and boxes she brought. Some of necessity would have to be stowed away in a convenient place in the hold, where Charles could reach them at any time. She had to accustom herself to the roll of the sea and the life on board. She made the cabin look as homelike as possible.There could not be too many gadgets around to be rolled and tossed around in rough weather. She had brought ser­ viceable warm clothing for the colder climate and for use on deck, as well as cooler clothing for the hot climate in the South Pacific.

Her first days at sea were long and lonely, Charles necessarily being on deck a good deal of the time to get things straightened out for the long trip down to the Horn. Nancy was for many days suffering from mal-de-mer but soon got used to the roll and got her sea legs under her.

After a while she began making brief visits to the deck and getting herself acquainted with the ship.

Charles had the carpenter build a small house on deck where she could sit when it was windy and cold and could also do her family washing in it. After all, laundry problems were not easy. She spent her time sew­ ing and knitting and reading when she could sit up in the cabin.

Sometimes she was forced to lie down to keep from being thrown down.

They spoke a bark after about two weeks out and the Captain sent Nancy a bottle of wine and a small parrot. It was also her duty each day to pick up the eggs which were laid by the hens in various places.

Each day she would mark the date on the egg, so the oldest ones could be used first.

Nancy was overjoyed when they reached the Azores and upon arriv­ ing at Flores she and Charles went ashore. While he was trading for potatoes, onions, pumpkins, chickens, goats, pigs and a bullock, etc., Nancy looked around the place. It was dismal; the houses were of stone, white-washed. The streets were narrow with numerous hogs running around.

The ladies were all barefoot and wore short cloaks, no bonnets, a large handkerchief tied on their heads. Charles and Nancy were invited to dine with the English Consul, then returned to the ship. She was grateful to get her feet on solid ground, but how much more grateful was she to return to her snug, clean cabin.

The ship next headed for Fayal, but they were refused landing or to hold any communication whatever with the shore, so they departed with a crew's "hearty curse".

On the 9th of Sept. they sent letters to Angra by the bark ONTARIO On the 11th Franklin Barnard, the cooper, was put in limbo for getting drunk and being disorderly. They spoke the brig JUNE, of New Bedford, Capt. Cook, bound for California.

'MY SEA-FARING FAMILY

15

"All living in hopes of catching a whale." On the 16th they did raise whales and took three alongside by noon and started cutting in and boil­ ing. After passing the islands of St. Nicholas and St. Paul, they were kept busy stowing down oil. After finally making the Island of Brava a boat went ashore and returned. For three weeks in November they experienced nothing but gales. A heavy sea boarded the ship and car­ ried away the waist boat.

On the 22nd, they spoke the BOWDITCH of Warren, R.I., Capt. Borden bound for California. The next day saw SOUTH AMERICA, of Pro­ vidence, R.I., Capt. Sowle. He, too, was bound for California. Saw the ENTERPRISE bound home.

On December 1st Cape Horn was in sight. Gales, hail and snow were the daily weather conditions. But by the 13th they are bound north in the Pacific Ocean. By Dec. 24th they got one humpback whale and are standing in for Talcuahuana. The 26th anchored off St. Catherine's and sent a raft ashore for water. Saw the ship AMETHYST of N.B. leaving; she had 1900 bbls sperm and 600 bbls of whale oil. Painting outside of ship, and the cook and Andrews are in the calaboose for misbehavior.

On the 3rd of Jan. 1850 they were getting ready for sea. The cook and carpenter came off from the calaboose and left one man behind. Ship­ ped Joseph Frank, took anchor and bid adieu to Talcey.

Nancy had been ashore at Talcy and visited U.S. Consul, Mr. Crosby, and his wife. They had a nice home and pretty garden. There were four children in the family. Mrs. Crosby was said to be a beautiful woman.

There were other visitors there at the same time.

During the bad weather round the Horn Nancy had kept to her cabin, coming up once in a while to look out and see what was going on. She kept busy. Sometimes she would make molasses candy, gingerbread and cakes. When she had fruit she would make pies. For entertainment she and Charles and the officer who was off duty would play cards or checkers and just talk.

When they had good weather, Nancy would go up on deck and watch the men in the forecastle having fun on deck, dancing and fiddling and singing. Also on moon-light nights she would go up and watch the sky.

On the 11th of Jan. they spoke the ZENAS COFFIN, 14 out, Capt.

Charles G. Arthur, also the COLUMBIA, 41 out, Capt. Joseph Chase.

The next day saw ACUSHNET, 16 out, Capt. Bradley.

•

I

•

By the 23rd they are lying off the island of Juan Fernandez, with two boats ashore on a fishing excursion. Boats returned with 200 fish. This would give them a good feast of fresh fish and some for chowder. The rest would be salted down for future use.

On Feb. 1st they are bound north and stopped at the island of St. Felix and got a lot more fish. Spoke the ship HOPE, 29 out, Capt. Stephen C. Christian, N.B. On the 21st lowered the boats for blackfish, struck four and saved two. A Portuguese lad named Isaac Macy was carried down

16

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

in a fouled line and drowned.

In the next two days made Payta and sent boat ashore for potatoes.

The MARINER was lying here. In March they are bound for Galipagos Islands. Took one sperm and next day two more so kept busy cutting in and boiling.

At Chatham Island they saw the SAPPHO N.B. 21 out, Capt. Benjamin Cushman, also the OREGON of Fairhaven. Three boats went in for ter­ rapin while Charles anchored the ship off Wreck Bay. The schooner TREMONT of Fairhaven and the ship PHOENIX of N.B. were spoken on the 28th and 29th.

It was now April and the Rock of Dundee was in sight. Took two whales in the next two days. Spoke the ship NAVIGATOR, Capt. George Palmer, on the 24th. Mrs. Palmer was with him. They had sailed just after Nan­ cy and Charles left. They were good friends and neighbors at home.

Mrs. Palmer was in very poor health and the doctor had told Capt.

Palmer he thought it would be a good thing if he took her along on the voyage. For the next few weeks the two ships kept company. Many ships were spoken, among them: THREE BROTHERS, Capt. Joseph Mit­ chell; WILLIAM & ELIZA, PACIFIC, HOXIE, BENJAMIN RUSSELL, ACUSHNET, REBECCA SIMMS, and the HENRY CLAY. It was ap­ parently "old home week" most of the time as many of these ships were all familiar and the captains all well known to each other. Much gam­ ming took place and pleasant news passed back and forth.

All this time they were taking whales and all kept busy.

About the last of June it became evident that Nancy was to become a mother, and much consideration was given as how to handle this pro­ blem. They were nearing Pitcairn Island, beating up in company with the NAVIGATOR. The bark HOOGLER was lying off and on. On the 30th they sent two boats ashore for water. The 7th of July the starboard watch was sent shore on liberty. There were strong gales from the WSW. The foresail was split, sent it down, repaired it, and sent it up again. On the 8th, standing in for land. Off and on until the 16th of July.

All this time the boats were bringing water off and stowing it down.

One boat got stove in the heavy surf. The watches were having daily liberty on shore.

While they were lying off and on, Charles had a talk with Capt. Palmer.

"Palmer," he said, "I am going to leave my wife ashore here while I am on the grounds." Palmer replied, "That's fine, Grant, I am going to leave my wife ashore, too."

This being decided, plans were immediately put into effect to have the two ladies transported to the island for a few months sojourn.

17

Chapter 10 Pitcairn Island and its People This very interesting island some sixty years before, in the year 1790, was chosen as a refuge for the mutineers of the ship BOUNTY. Accor­ ding to a journal kept by Mr. Morrison, which is included in the "Mutiny on the Bounty", by Lady Belcher, it all came about through the desirability of attempting to introduce the bread-fruit tree into the West Indies, The King had given his consent and encouragement to the idea and had given instructions to Mr. Joseph Banks, who sailed with Captain Cook on his first voyage to Tahiti, to purchase a small vessel for this purpose and he selected a ship of 215 tons and named her the BOUNTY. Lt. William Bligh, R.N., was given command of the expedition with Fletcher Christian as Mate and Peter Heywood as Midshipman. Flet­ cher was a good navigator, about 24 years old, a son of Charles Chris­ tian, and was from Mairlandolere, in Cumberland. Edward Young was another Midshipman.

In October, 1788, a misunderstanding arose about the disappearance of two cheeses which were declared stolen. The cooper, however, stated the two cheeses had gone to some person's house, in a long boat from Long Reach.

Lt. Bligh did not investigate, but short-rationed the men on this ac­ count. Much dissatisfaction was encountered for many months. On the 28th of April, 1789, the mutiny occurred.

Fletcher Christian taking charge. History gives the details of the mutiny. Thirty-nine days later, with Fletcher Christian as Master, the BOUNTY arrived at Tahiti. There were nine Tahitian men, twelve women and eight boys secreted on the ship when it left for Toubouaw.

Dissatisfaction arose and some wanted to return to Tahiti, and arrived there the 22nd of May, 1789.

They put sixteen men ashore with half the rations. Those who were left on board with Christian were: Edward Young, Alexander Smith, (who later took the name of John Adams), John Mills, William McCoy, Matthew Quintel, John Williams, Isaac Martin and William Brown. Each took a Tahitian wife and men servants, and sailed for Pitcairn Island.

There they installed themselves to live or die as the case might be. The ship BOUNTY was dismantled and burnt so that it would never be sighted by a passing ship.

In the year 1800 John Adams was the only man of the original mutineers left on the island. He was the leader and spiritual adviser.

In the year 1808 an American vessel, the TOPAZ, Capt. Mayhew

18

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

Folger, of Nantucket, discovered the island where no island was sup­ posed to be. When it was discovered in 1767 by Carteret he had placed it on the chart three degrees out of its true longitude, named it Pitcairn for the young midshipman who saw the island fifteen miles away. He was the son of Major Pitcairn who was killed at Bunker Hill.

When the TOPAZ arrived, they were met by Christian's three sons, Thursday October, Charles and James. Their mother, Maimiti, was still living as were Prudence Mills, Mary McCoy, Susannah Martin, Jenny Brown and a native woman called Moetua. John Adams, the only man of the original, was also living.

Thursday October Christian was about twenty-four years old when Capt. Beechy visited the island in 1825. Later John Buffet and John Evans came to live on the island. Buffet became Pastor. They both mar­ ried there. It was in 1828 that George Hunn Nobbs became permanent settler. He married Sarah Christian, granddaughter of Fletcher. Sarah's father was Charles who married the girl who was the little Tahitian baby brought to the island with its mother in the earlier days. Sarah Chris­ tian Nobbs was a fine woman and became the good friend of all Nan­ tucket wives who stopped at Pitcairn in the years to come.

George Hunn Nobbs was born in Ireland in 1799 and was in the British Navy, held a commission in the Chilean service and had been Lieute­ nant. He went to England in 1822 in the ELIZABETH, which had short­ ly before touched at Pitcairn. At the beginning of 1826 Nobbs, after hear­ ing the Captain of the ELIZABETH speak of the happiness of the peopie of Pitcairn, decided to set forth for that island, having a desire to live a life of peace and usefulness to his fellow men.

He was detained in Calcutta, crossed the Pacific to Valparaiso, and after again being detained he succeeded in embarking in a frail bark of 18 tons burthen, costing him 150 pounds sterling.

He was accompanied by an American, Noah Bunker. They arrived ?u Pi™ail? (?ctober 18th>1828-^companion died soon after. There were then 68 inhabitants on the island and Nobbs became their beloved pastor surgeon and school-teacher. In 1829 John Adams died, aged 65 years.

His wife died the same year. In 1830 there were 87 persons there. About 1831 there was great fear that the water supply would give out so the inhabitants were removed by the H.N.M. COMET to Tahiti, but owing to sickness and poor climate they returned to Pitcairn in 1832. By 1841 there were 111 inhabitants, 54 males, 57 females. In the year 1845 part hacf bee^topping^thereSCa

F°r S6Veral years

A"16"0311 whaling ships

Bounty Bay is the only landing place on the rocky island. A dangerous reef of rocks and continuous high surf made landing boats extremely hazardous. The village laid to the north of the island

MY SEA-FARING FAMILY

19

In the year 1850 this third generation of the Mutineers was nearly as white as Europeans. They were fine, sturdy, healthy folks. Arthur Quin­ tal, who was nearly 50 years old, was the senior, and there was Rebec­ ca Christian and also Jemima Young who were stout, good-natured girls.

All were simple, open-hearted folk and good Christians. They had for years had a spiritual leader and teacher in George Nobbs.

They thoroughly enjoyed the arrival of ships. These visits were to them a friendly jubilee, which varied the monotony of their daily lives and every family took a regular turn in entertaining the Captain of any ship that arrived. It is considered a great privilege and all are anxious to do so. For months and sometimes years the recent visitation of a ship would be a topic of conversation.

When Martha Young was 17 years old she made a list of the time spent each day of the year for Capt. Joseph Mitchell, Jr. who put in at the island on the THREE BROTHERS. "Rise at 6 — Read 30 min.

Feed the hogs -15 min.

Make the garlands -15 min.

Comb hair -1 min.

Get provisions from the mountains and cook for the day - 3 hours.

Work in field - 2 hours.

School - 5 hours.

Sew and wash -1 hour.

Courting - 2% hours.

Sleeping - 7 hours.

Get squid for fish -15 min.

Spare time: Instrumental and vocal music.

This was the usual day for the islanders.

The customary house was built of wood, with one large, long room divided by two partitions, which are raised upon huge sleepers, placed on large flat stones, about 2 to 2% feet off the ground. They are built nearly east and west with door fronting north and windows in front with sliding shutters. The roof is made of Pandarin leaves, placed overlaping each other.

The side opposite the window is occupied by the sleeping quarters, which consists of beds like berths. These have a smaller window or scut­ tle, which admits air when they are shut out from the common room by drawn curtains.

The bed clothes are made of tappa cloth, white and tanned, The natives rise early before the sun, and sleep when they are tired. They eat when

20

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

they are hungry. Sundays they all go to Church. Their food consists of boiled fowl, pig, yams, and roasted bread-fruit. Cake is made of yams and plantains beaten up and baked in loaves.

They do their baking by making a hole in the ground, forming an oven.

The bottom is lined with fresh plantain leaves. Heated stones are then spread over these leaves and covered with more leaves. Over these is laid the article which is to be cooked: pig, fowl or whatever, all wrap­ ped in leaves, except potatoes and yams which are left uncovered. More hot stones are put in the hole and all covered with another layer of leaves.

Then the hole is covered with another layer of leaves, on top of which is placed a mass of rubbish to keep the heat in.

For fowl or meat, twenty minutes to half an hour cooking will pro­ duce food fit for the Gods. All drinking water was brought by girls from a pool up the hill.

It was to this paradise that Nancy and Mrs. Palmer were welcomed.

George Nobbs was among the greeters and told the two husbands that everything possible would be done for the ladies and for them not to worry.

It happened that it was Jemima Young's turn to entertain, so it was decided that the ladies should go there for a while.

After a few days the ladies were in excellent spirits, particularly Mrs. Palmer, who already was feeling much better.

The ladies settled down to a happy life with their new-found friends.

They were Rebecca Christian, Phebe, Sarah and Caroline Adams, Sarah McCoy, Dorcas and Hannah Young, Sarah Nobbs, Rachel Evans, and the Quintals - Nancy, Susan, Louise and Ruth.

As soon as they became accustomed to the conditions they became interested in the problems of the fine people.

Nancy told about the clothing which was worn there. The women wore a petticoat, full and long, over which was worn a loose gown with a han­ dkerchief over their shoulders. A wreath of flowers is generally worn round the head. The men wore short trousers, the legs cut off two or three inches above the knee. A shirt and a hat completes their costume.

Seldom are shoes worn, or stockings, except on Sunday.

As soon as the excitment of coming ashore had subsided, Mrs. Palmer rapidly failed again. Nancy helped to care for her, but she was in the final stages of consumption and in a short time passed away. This was on Sept. 27th, 1850, and a few days later she was laid to rest in the graveyard with great solemnity.

Mrs. Palmer had been esteemed by all, in her Nantucket home, and was universally loved. It was a sad blow to Nancy to lose her friend.

Mrs. Palmer, on her death bed, dictated the following poem.

'MY SEA-FARING FAMILY

21

To My Husband "Farewell, my husband, the cold hand of death, So long extended, now arrests my breath; I feel the imperious mandate, and comply, For not to-day have I learned to die.

My days of suffering and nights of pain, I thank my God, have not been in vain.

My faith is strong; Jesus I confide — I know that I shall live, for he hath died, Yes, my dear husband; though this wasted form, Must mingle with the dust and feed the worms, Yet when a few short years at most are o'er, Then shall we meet, I trust, to part no more.

Then moderate your grief; and though your tears May fall, as memory calls to mind past years, Yet ever in your breast, this hope retain, "My transient loss is her eternal gain."

That you have loved me with unfailing love, Our wedded life must fondly prove, In health and sickness, ever still the same, To please, to soothe, and comfort, all your aim, That you will mourn my loss I feel assured, But let this loss with patience be endured, And now to God, my Father and my friend, To Jesus, on whose merits I depend, I would commend thee, while yet my strength remains, Farewell, beloved, until we meet again."

It was just a short time before that Susannah, native of Tahiti, last survivor of the BOUNTY, died from epidemic and exhaustion of old age.

This was on July 15,1850. The following September 18th there was a child born named Robert Charles Grant Young. This would show the regard people had for Charles and Nancy.

Nancy was lonely but not unhappy. She afterwards said the only thing she really wanted was "a piece of white bread".

It was on the 24th of December, 1850, that Nancy gave birth to a son.

All went well with the watchful care of Mr. Nobbs and the native women.

The child was named Charles William Grant. He was the first white child to be born on Pitcairn Island.

It might be interesting to know that in 1850 a letter was written to a Nantucket Captain by a native of Pitcairn. This letter is in the collec­ tion of the Nantucket Historical Association and reads as follows: My dear friend: We number now in all the island, men, women, and children, 160 souls: 78 males and 82 females. My brother William died since you

22

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

left us, and so did the old BOUNTY woman Susannah. Mrs. Palmer, the wife of Capt. George Palmer, died at this place in Sept. 27th last. Mrs Grant is still with us and the little boy which was born on Dec. 24th. I have two children since you left us, the one three years old and the other one month. As regards other matters, we are doing well and I thank God at present we are well provided for.

A ship from New Zealand for California, came here and landed five of her passengers and the ship being allowed off in the night the Capt. of her left the above named passengers and the one of them kind­ ly undertook to teach us music. They (the passengers) were with us three weeks. How far they succeeded in teaching us music, we leave to our hearers to judge.

Your friend and well wisher, Matthew McCoy Another of extreme interest was written some years later by Rev. George Hunn Nobbs to a Nantucket captain to whom he was much devoted. This is an exact copy of the original, in the possession of the writer.

October 9, 1858 Norfolk Island

My dear Friends, I send this at a venture, but I doubt whether it will reach Nantucket before you leave for these parts. I would have written before but oppor­ tunity did not offer. There is little alteration in the things since you left here. Lately but few ships have touched here; still we are expecting several in a month or two. I should like to know how you got home and how you wound up your affairs with your owners, but I suppose I must wait till you give it verbally. I have written to Capt. Palmer and also to Nancy Grant, who, I believe, is not coming out again.

I want the three ladies, to wit, Mrs. Winslow, Mrs. Palmer and Mrs. Grant, conjointly to send out for my wife and daughters, six dozen spools of sewing cotton, various colors, but mostly white, and two dozen skeins of black sewing silk; with a good sized bottle or two of Eau de Cologne and I will pay you for these things. I have requested George Palmer to get me several articles, as he will have more time than yourself, and moreover when he was last at Pitcairn, he requested me to do so, but should it be more convenient for you to advance the money for the pur­ chases I want you to oblige me by doing so.

I have no news save that most of the whaleships have according to reports done middling well this last season. As for ourselves, we are pretty comfortable. Humpbacking is the present prevalent fever. Our boats have killed and sunk several. One was recovered and what the sharks had left made twenty bbls. I wish the irons, lances and lines were all expended for I am continually fearing accidents.

MY SEA-FARING FAMILY

23

Tell little Johnny that I hope to hear a good account of his progress in education, and Sarah must send her love to all the little girls here.

Bring out a good stock of Castor Oil, Friar's Balsam and Saleratus, as I shall want to purchase for the community. I suppose we shall not see Mrs. Winslow in these parts so it will be of little use to give her an in­ vitation to my house, but should the good lady come out, I expect her to be the guest of Mrs. Nobbs and myself.

Bring out as many periodicals as you can muster, read them yourself and then deposit them in my study. And now, my worthy friend, I have only this to say, that, though I shall be glad to see you at any time, the sooner you visit us the better reception I shall give you. Please give my respects to all inquiring friends and believe me, my dear sir, Yours most truly George H. Nobbs P.S. — I suppose I ought to have mentioned for Mrs. Winslow's infor­ mation there have been eight marriages since you were here and that one of them is Ruth Quintal, the young woman at whose house you stayed. One son and one daughter of mine are also among the number.

There have also been seven births, but no deaths.

March 21st, 1859 I have almost given up the hope of forwarding this epistle, but I think I have found an opportunity at last. Captain Swain, of the MINERVA, was here to take on board thirty barrels of beef which the community have salted for him, as he is bound home shortly.

I think it probable you may get this some time or other. Capt. Swain resided with us two months. He was quite an invalid when he landed, but it pleased God to restore him to perfect health. He is a man for whom the Community generally, and myself, have a great regard.

The abrupt ending to this letter would seem that Capt. Swain was about to sail, and that the letter did get there as shown by its being still in existence, after nearly a hundred years.

We are not sure about the Capt. but we think it was Calvin Swain who in 1855 was on the MINERVA, 2nd and in 1859 went out on the THREE BROTHERS. (To be continued)

25

Memoirs of Nantucket 1 by Deborah Coffin Hussey Adams Abstracted by Emil F. Guba, Ph.D.2 In January 1917, Nantucket born Deborah Coffin Hussey Adams, then a resident of San Francisco, completed her "Memoirs of Nantucket", related especially to the years after her birth on December 28,1848, and after Nantucket's golden age of whaling and prosperity. They are a thrill­ ing account of 19th century Nantucket, where an adventurous spirit of a sea-faring people combined with the quiet influence of Quakerism, pro­ duced an habitation and society different from all other islands and all other people.

Deborah C. Hussey was the daughter of Christopher Coffin Hussey, born June 19, 1820, and Lydia C.(Coffin) , born August 9, 1822.

Christopher and Lydia were married in Nantucket on April 16,1943 in the fashion of the Society of Friends, being both of Quaker stock.

Deborah married George D. Adams of Lowell, Massachusetts. They moved on to California and settled in San Francisco. This author has abstracted her "Memoirs" as follows: "Here at Nantucket the sea was the one big factor in making the Island unusual socially and intellectually. Life though restricted and narrow in some ways was delightful. In the summer season the open air life was simple and neighborly. In the winter the inhabitants were thrown upon their own resources, being shut off from the mainland, there be­ ing no boats, no cable, and the harbor, occasionally frozen over for days at a time. Most of the men followed the sea going on whaling voyages of two and three years.

"The women were left to manage affairs at home and very well they did them. Nantucket was a woman's suffrage town long before suffrage became a political issue or was even thought about. A notable race of women was bred here. Every one was either a Quaker or decended from Quakers, and thus Quakerism largely shaped the life of the town. Their speech was an odd mixture of plain language and nautical slang. 'Now scud along or thee will be late to school.' For putting on style, 'She was beating along with all sail set.' If one made a mistake, '0 well, it takes one voyage to learn.'

"No titles were allowed among the Quakers. Everyone was address­ ed by the first name. The terms Mr. and Mrs. were not permitted even among children. Deborah's father's and mother's friends were address­ ed uncle, aunt, cousin, and by such designations everyone on the island 1) The original memoirs are in the library of the late Professor George C. Wood, Ph.D., Professor Emeritus of Belles Letters, Dartmouth College, seasonal resident of Nantucket, until his death.

2) Emil F. Guba, Commonwealth Professor Emeritus, University of Massachusetts, Life member Nantucket Historical Association, Honorary member Nantucket Garden Club and Nantucket Maria Mitchell Association. Former seasonal resident of Nantucket.

26

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

was related. Pet names for persons were forbidden except where there were strong leanings towards 'world's people.' The penalty imposed upon children for telling a lie was the denial of the parent's kiss for one whole week and this was indeed a dreadful experience for children. The Quakers felt that the observance of Christmas Day was wrong. New Year's Day was the big day and the only day in the year that the Quakers set apart from all others.

"Cent coins were given to the children of pre-public school age to at­ tend afternoon sessions of the cent school, this being an ideal way mothers would be able to get an afternoon off. The cent school was usual­ ly in the home of a widowed friend. The cents in these days were big round coins of copper. The warm hands of the children took on a cop­ pery odor from the grasp of the coin in the hand on the way to the cent school.

"There were also cent shops all over the town, usually in the front room of a house. A bell over the front door rang as it opened to summon the proprietor who would be occupied elsewhere in the house. A cent would buy as much as a nickel now (1917). The front room shops were like 5 and 10 stores, but on a small scale. Where there was a cent to spend several children would go off together to spend it and share in the pur­ chase. There were agate marbles, sticks of candy, peppermint candy, licorice, milk, sublimated doughnuts called 'wonders,' etc., etc.

"On the First Day meetings the men and women would walk slowly into Meeting and take their places on the rising seats facing the Meeting.

The women appeared especially beautiful. Their dress was an artistic attractive costume. The long full skirt of wool or silk of soft gray or drab color would stand alone according to purse or social standing. Over the plain bodice of the waist was worn a kerchief of sheerest lawn to match the dainty close fitting cap. A small shoulder shawl of silk like the dress was worn outside of the white kerchief making a most harmonious whole in keeping with the soft slow speech and quiet ways. The outside wrap was a long full cape gathered into a yoke at the shoulders, worn with a close fitting silk bonnet deep enough to conceal the face. The 'doing up' of the fine shed muslin caps was an art in itself known to a favored few only. The caps were starched and gently put into shape.

"Men and women sat on opposite sides of the building with a low parti­ tion between them. The heavy shutters were let down when a business meeting was going on, completely separating the two parts of the house.

The meetings were silent unless someone on the rising seat felt the mov­ ing of the spirit; then she or he would remove bonnet or hat, hand it to the next person, rise and speak the words given them. On one occa­ sion an elderly man very deliberately made his preparations to speak, slowly rose and said impressively, 'remember Lot's wife' and then seated himself.

A man got up to speak. An old man sat in the seat below, just in front of him, his hat on his head of course. The man standing used gestures with his speaking and in the course of his remarks he hit the old man's

MEMOIRS OF NANTUCKET

27

hat tipping it forward. The old man did not move. The man standing and speaking did not notice what he had done. Again he hit the hat, this time sending it so far forward that it rested on the cane on which the old man's head was bowed on his hands. The old man remained mo­ tionless, made no sign that anything was wrong until the man, standing and speaking, took his seat and then he quietly replaced his hat on his head.

"In the childhood period of Deborah Coffin Hussey the codfish was sold whole and salted being used as it was needed. A story was told of a revival meeting in progress at the Methodist Church building. This town woman after supper went to the market and bought a salted cod­ fish and on coming up to the Methodist Church was so overwhelmed and affected by the groans and mourners. The Amens and the Halleluyahs of the saved rang out and she went inside to join the service, and there she too was shouting with the rest, and vigorously and emotionally thrashing herself around with her codfish until nothing was left but the tail.

"As other religious sects established themselves and became more and more active, Quakerism declined. There was the North Church, Unitarian, Episcopal, Baptist and others. The new faiths brought new religious concepts and new forms of worship attracting many who had followed a static orthodox Quaker discipline. The Second Adventists had quite a following and often they were expecting the second coming of the Christ. Some even went so far as to dispose of their worldly posses­ sions to be ready for the translation. On the appointed night many of them donned their white ascension robes and went up to the walks on the roofs of the houses to watch for the Christ.

"Deborah related that her father and mother were always inclined toward the ways of the 'world', which sometimes offended the strict Quaker principles even to the point of being rebuked. Deborah and her sister Mattie (Martha) dressed alike with leghorn hats with delicate white and buff colored ribbon around the crown and a white elastic cord under the chin. An attractive rosette of ribbons set on each side on the elastic cord over the ears. They came with new hats to Meeting on First Day, but they were far too gay for the Elders. On the next day (Mon­ day) the Elders waited upon Deborah's mother and labored with her until she removed the offending ornaments. Deborah s oldest sister Liz­ zie (Elizabeth) attended Nantucket High School. Some Elders without success tried to convince her father and mother how wrong it was to go to school where there was a piano and singing.

"The three Starbuck houses on Main Street built by Joseph Starbuck for his sons were beautifully furnished and most grand and wonderful to the children in contrast to the bareness of Quaker homes. The Main Street houses seemed like palaces to the children. We had no pictures, no luxuries of any sort and the only comfortable seating furniture was grandmother's easy chair and two rockers. There were no Mother Goose or fairy stories for the Quaker children. They played becoming quiet

28

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

little games that children of today (1917) would look upon with scorn.

"Joseph Starbuck's family were world's people. They attended the Unitarian Church. We were often at their houses and we really lived two kinds of life, talking the plain language and the 'world's speech' as occasion required.

"We rode in spring wagons, the children seated in the bottom of both sides facing each other with lunch baskets between us. We picked blueberries and little red checker berries on the way to visits to relatives On farms and home again.

"The oil drays were of two long heavy low hung timbers on two wheels drawn by two horses and used for moving barrels of whale oil. The ends of the two long timbers extended beyond the wheels almost to the ground.

When an empty dray came along, the children would get on for a ride through the streets, it being easy and safe to jump on and off. Before the State Road to Sconset was built the ruts in the road were so deep that the wagon wheels would sink to the hubs. Then another road would be started along side of the old rutted road. For the children the rides on the roads were great adventure. During the long ride back home from Sconset, over the moors toward sunset, we would always look back to see Sankaty Light flash out. Then as the moon would rise the lights of Nantucket Town would come into view and then the jolting wagon would travel over the cobblestones of Orange Street and the happy day was over.

"Nantucket women were famous cooks. After the meal was finished the children would be sent with the leavings to the shanty of an old In­ dian hermit who was a great mystery to us and who half scared us to death. We placed the food down at his door sill and scampered away as fast as we could. Everyone recognized the scarcity and value of money and though we had little of it we really had considerable com­ pany. Mother made famous Bannocks from white corn meal. For friends in for supper, usually Quakers, a typical meal was Bannock or little tea biscuits, chipped beef, sweet Nantucket butter, delicious tea from China, red and transparent quince preserve and cupcakes. Meat was brought from the mainland and sold at public auction once a week. If someone killed a pig we were given a share. Often roast pork with crackle and other fixings would be given to grandmother Hussey (Deborah's father's mother, Elizabeth Starbuck Hussey).

"Nantucket was one of the stations of the 'underground railroad'.

Fugitive slaves sometimes came here under the protection of the Quakers. There was a negro colony called 'Guinea' which was passed on the way to Sconset. The pro-slavery feeling also ran high. Cousin Eliza Barney and others were pelted with rotten eggs at an anti-slavery meeting on the Island. For the table and cooking, the 'free labor sugar' (not made by slaves) was used and indeed it was nasty stuff. I do not know where it came from.

"Father had quite a reputation as speaker at Friends Meeting. He had been invited by the wealthiest New Bedford families to come to New

MEMOIRS OF NANTUCKET

29

Bedford. People were leaving the Island and people from the mainland began coming in the fifties for the summer. Father's going to New Bed­ ford to join Friends Meeting there would have been greatly to his ad­ vantage in a worldly way but he had outgrown the narrowness of the Quaker faith. He departed from the Quakers and joined the liberal Unitarians. Yet many of the Quaker home customs were retained in father's household. The Friends language was always used in the fami­ ly life and at the table a silent grace preceded each meal. The last time that father spoke was at a little Friends Meeting House in Amesbury.

The family attended Meeting with John Greenleaf Whittier.

"Deborah's sister Lizzie passed away at Nantucket in the summer of 1860 at the age of sixteen years, and the family just after the parting with their daughter left for Northeaston, Mass. and there making a new beginning among strangers. Here in that first winter Deborah saw her first Christmas tree. Four years in the period of the Civil War were spent in Northeaston.

"Then at the age of 13 years, Deborah enrolled in a big public school in New Bedford. Peace was declared in the spring season of 1865 and in April President Lincoln was assassinated and the city was draped in black for our dead leader. The familiar Civil War songs were sung as the boys returned home. The singing of John Brown's Body inspired the tired soldiers.

"The summer of the War's ending was the last one spent in New Bed­ ford. We all went to Nantucket in the year of the grand Coffin reunion.

There was a notable gathering under a tent. The family moved from Northeaston to Billerica in the spring season that the Civil War ended.

There Deborah was married to George D. Adams of Lowell, and also disowned from the Quaker fold of which she was a birthright member, for marrying out of Meeting.

"As in all isolated communities the people are more individual and among them there are odd characters and so it was at Nantucket. An ex-Civil War soldier in a sidewalk nook flourished on poetry and peanuts.

Eliza Ann McCleave, a stout handsome woman, widow of Captain McCleave, ran a museum of shells and curios from all over the world in an upper room, charging a small admission and the way she explain­ ed them to the visitors was a treat. There were three Newbegin sisters noted for their queer ways. One of them always walked around every hitching post she came to in walks to the town.

"Here also was an original way of painting the kitchen floor, which was simply a matter of pouring all the bucket of paint in the center of the floor and sweeping it around with a broom.

"Billy Clark was another odd character, really an island institution, as the Town Crier. He blew his trumpet from each of the four windows of the Unitarian Meeting House Tower when the incoming boat was sighted, then hurry to the wharf to get the papers. Then he perambulated about Town ringing his bell, shouting the newspaper headines and the local town news gathered through the day. With his passing the office

30

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

of Town Crier gradually passed also.

"The last concluding section of Deborah's Memoirs pictured a rather gloomy scene. The little Island is still there way out in the Atlantic Ocean. The sea, the wonderful climate, the sunsets, the lovely moors, the narrow crooked streets are all the same but the simple neighborly life is gone.

"The old families have passed away. Some of the fine old mansions have been bought by the 'off-islanders' for summer homes. The wharves are falling into pieces and the big whale oil storage houses are closed or torn down. The last Quaker, Eunice Paddock, whom I well remember, died a few years ago. Sconset has a large theatrical colony, many elaborate cottages and a casino. Nantucket, once so prosperous, is now reduced toone-third her former size and largely dependent upon the sum­ mer provider for her existence. And so sic transit gloria mundi, so in this manner passes."

Bequests or gifts to the Nantucket Historical Association are tax deductible.

They are greatly needed and appreciated.

PLEASE - Send us your change of address if you are planning to move. You will receive your copy sooner and we are charged extra for all copies returned because of an incorrect address.

31

The Quaker's House by Eleanor Dixon Glidden I live in a house a Quaker built On a flat sea-cradled land.

Where the homeless winds go trumpeting by Lashed by a whip of sand.

Where fogs roll in unheralded Across the heath and broom — Sullen and swift and smothering Heavy with salty spume.

The business of life was the business of ship In hazardous yesterday Oil for a lamp — tallow to mold By the spout of a whale to say Whether a life be saved or lost Whether be starved or fed, Or whether a quiet Quaker bowed Humbly above his dead.

I light my fire on a Quaker's hearth At night when the cold blows high, And warmed by his peaceful Quiet faith Let the brawling world go by.