Historic Nantucket, January 1958, Vol. 5 No. 3

Historic Nantucket

NANTUCKET TOWN From a lithograph by Ruth Haviland Sutton

JANUARY, 1958

Published Quarterly by

NANTUCKET HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION NANTUCKET, MASS.

"Father Mapple's Hymn" The ribs and terrors in the whale, Arched over me a dismal gloom, While all God's sunlit waves roiled by, And left me deepening down to doom.

I saw the opening maw of hell, With endless pains and sorrows there: While none but they that feel can tell — Oh, I was plunging to despair.

In black distress, I called my God, When I could scarce believe him mine, He bowed his ear to my complaints — No more the whale did me confine.

With speed He flew to my relief, As on a radiant dolphin borne: Awful, yet bright as lightening shone The face of my Deliverer God. My song for ever shall record That terrible, that joyful hour: I give that glory to my God, His all the mercy and the power.

From Herman Melville's "Moby Dick"

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HISTORIC NANTUCKET Published quarterly and devoted to the preservation of Nantucket's antiquity, its famed heritage and its illustrious past as a whaling port.

VOLUME 5

No. 3

JANUARY 1958

CONTENTS "Father Mapple's Hymn"

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Editorial

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National Trust for Historic Preservation—A Report

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"Rebel's Daughter"; Briefly-Noted—A Few Gifts Do You Know?

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12 -

Reminiscences of Old Podpis

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History Making Events of 1957

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44

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Keziah Coffin Fanning's Diary

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Legacies and Bequests

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The Mighty Whale

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27 31

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Historic Nantucket is published quarterly at Nantucket, Massachusetts, by the Nantucket Historical Association. It is sent free to all members of the Association.

Membership dues are — Annual-Active $2.00 ; Sustaining $10.00 ; Life—one payment $50.00.

Entered as Second Class Matter, July, 1953, at the Post Office, Nantucket, Massachusetts Copyright 1957 Nantucket Historical Association.

Communications pertaining to the Publication should be addressed to the Editor, Historic Nantucket, Nantucket Historical Association, Nantucket, Massachusetts.

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EDITORIAL The Nantucket Historical Trust, formed since our last issue, is the start of something that may become of immeasurable value to the future of this community.

The trust fund, having a valuation of something over $20,000, is to be used in assisting local organizations in the progressing of cultural aims.

The trustees of this fund are named as "Henry B. Coleman and George W. Jones, both of Nantucket, Mass., and Walter Beinecke, Jr., of Short Hills, New Jersey."

To clarify the aims and purposes of this trust, quotations from parts of the trust agreement seem to be called for and we submit these selected sections for such enlightenment.

The first clause states: "This trust shall be known as the Nantucket Historical Trust and all things relating to this trust may be done under that name."

Clause second: "The Trustees may receive additions from time to time to the trust fund whether real or personal property, from any person, corporation, or organization."

Clause third: "The Trustees shall pay the whole or such part of the fund ... as they, in their uncontrolled discretion deem proper, . . . for such charitable uses for the public benefit as are allowed and can be sustained by law and come within the follow­ ing limitations:" Then follow the specified purposes for which these monies may be used among which are: 1. to preserve, restore, repair, or maintain building's, monuments, sites, and property, real and personal, of historical significance or of educational, aesthetic, or cultural value on Nantucket Island.

2. to assiist the Nantucket Historical Association in accomplishing any or all of the purposes described in (1) and to make payments or transfers of real or personal property to it.

3. to make payments to corporations, trusts, community chests, fund's, or foundations organized and operated exclusively for relig­ ious, charitable, scientific, literary, or educational purposes.

4. to make expenditures in such manner and to such persons as they deem proper for the advancement or promotion of science, learning, medicine, surgery, literature, music, art, or human wel­ fare.

EDITORIAL

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From the above it would seem that the field of endeavor for the purposes described may be almost limitless. However, quite understandably, the limit to what can be accomplished will depend on the finances available at any given time.

The agreement further specifies the authority of the Trus­ tees saying, among other things, "They may receive contribu­ tions from any source."

A splendid start has been made with the present available capital reaching something over $20,000 valuation which has been contributed by persons having the foresight and generosity to consider the future welfare of Nantucket. This action is greatly appreciated by those who realize the constructive work which can be done with such a fund.

It is reasonable to suppose that no large expenditures can be made from this capital without seriously crippling its continued usefulness. Therefore expenditures will have to be conservative until the amount available has been considerably expanded. This, it is to be hoped, will result from a clearer understanding of what this trust will mean to Nantucket over the years ahead in pre­ serving for future generations the things of historic value which might otherwise be lost, removed from the island or destroyed, due to inadequate funds to prevent such loss.

Scientific work may be assisted as well as aid made available for charitable and educational purposes coming within the scope of this trust agreement.

Here is presented a chance for those who may desire such good works to continue into the distant future, to put forward their financial aid that this work may be carried on.

The Nantucket Historical Association extends its greetings to a new organization having common interests and working for the welfare of our Island. May it grow and expand in service to Nantucket.

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National Trust For Historic Preservation Annual Meeting Editor's condensation of W. RIPLEY NELSON'S twelve page report and recommendations as delegate to the eleventh annual meeting held October 11-13, inclusive, 1957

It gives me great pleasure to tender to the Nantucket His­ torical Association this report on the National Trust Annual Meeting which I attended as a delegate of both the Association and the Historic Districts Commission of Nantucket. It was the first time that Nantucket was represented at such a meeting, but, in retrospect, it would seem almost providential that such should have been the case and that the common interest and cooperative effort in Historic preservation of both organizations should have been emphasized by common delegate representation, for the meeting may well be classified for various reasons herein after outlined as one of special import in the history of the National Trust.

Attendance Approximately 450 persons attended the three-day meeting, the largest attendance ever recorded for a meeting of the Trust.

This included representation from all parts of the country. One interesting note was the large number of men in attendance.

Program The daily programs included lectures and discussions, and visits to selected historic buildings and sites. The social gather­ ings included luncheons, receptions, and formal dinners. That this program could be carried out without a hitch is a glowing tribute to the character, ability in planning, and administration of the Trust's staff. This gives one confidence in the work of the Trust and the carrying out of its regular program.

Historic Sites Visited

Throughout the inspection a Salem resident gave a descrip­ tive talk of the history of the various areas, pointing out special points of interest.

The first trips were to Salem and Danvers.

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The Endicott House, which is still occupied by the owner, is a beautiful estate.

In Salem the historic buildings visited included Derby House, Pierce-Nichols House, Pingree House, Essex Institute, Hamilton Hall, where luncheon was served, and Peabody Museum where the opening session of the Annual Meeting was held.

The houses and their contents were well presented by their respective staffs and volunteers. At the Pierce-Nichols House an exhibit of old carriages, carts, and equipment displayed in their natural environment was especially effective and I could not help thinking how much more effective our display of wagons, car­ riages, carts, sleighs, etc., would be if they could be housed in a barn on the 1800 House property.

There was a "counting room" bare and unadorned with the plainest type of necessary counter desk, stools, and old safe.

This work shop was in interesting contrast with the luxury atmos­ phere of the living quarters.

Essex Institute presents fascinating collections.

The Lee Mansion in Marblehead and the King-Hooper House received visitors. The inconspicuous automatic fire alarm system in the Lee Mansion appeared to be an idea which might be con­ sidered for the Oldest House and the 1800 House.

In Ipswich and Essex the Whipple House which was built in 1640, owned and occupied by generations of the same family for 200 years, was bought and restored by the Ipswich Historical Society in 1898. The clam shell walks were effective and something which we might consider for either or both "The Oldest House" and "1800 House."

"Cogswell Grant," the home of Mr. and Mrs. Bertram K. Little, proved to be a real farm house in which every room is a small museum.

In visits to the various buildings I was impressed with the attention given to the visitors, the care in selecting and displaying the furnishings and equipment, and the transparencies (colored glass picture slides), of which there were usually two views in each room. These could be purchased at a moderate price.

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HISTORIC NANTUCKET

Meetings and Lectures Mr. David E. Finlay, chairman of the National Trust, pre­ sided over the opening session. Dr. Gardner of the Peabody Museum extended the welcome.

Mrs. Atherton Macondray, Chairman, Woodlawn Plantation Committee, made an interesting report on the restoration, main­ tenance of, and what the Plantation now has to otfer. Woodlawn, built in the early 1800's, on part of the Mount Vernon Estate was given by George Washington to his nephew, Lawrence Lewis, on his marriage to Martha Washington's granddaughter. The Plantation is administered by the Trust as an historic museum.

A member of the Board of Trustees told the story of the restoration of Wayside Inn, through the grant of $500,000 by the Ford Foundation. The responsibility for this restoration, mainte­ nance, and administration was accepted by the National Trust.

These two properties are an example of the responsibilities to be undertaken by the Trust in the field of administering his­ toric properties of national interest.

Architecture "American Nineteenth Century Architecture: Mclntire to Mansards" was the subject of the lecture Friday evening. 1958 is the 200th anniversary of the birth of the famous architect, Samuel Mclntire, who designed and built many outstanding Co­ lonial day houses of Salem and other New England cities. Essex Institute had a special exhibit of his plans and drawings, and pictures of his work.

Abbott Lowell Cummings' talk on "Mclntire and the Federal Style" was most fitting and interesting.

Mrs. Barbara Wriston, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, talked on "Thomas Tefft; an Early Eclectic," one who borrowed ideas from all sources for unusual structures, many of which are found in and around Providence.

John Maass, Philadelphia Museum School of Art, gave an excellent talk, "The Mansard Era." These lectures were illustrated by lantern slides.

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Other Lectures

Mr. Charles C. Wall of "Mount Vernon," spoke on "The Mad­ ding Crowd." The problem of administering this national shrine can best be emphasized by his statement that in 1956 they had 1,201,000 visitors and 80 per cent of them came in the six months' period of spring, summer, and fall. It is understandable that they have to maintain large replacement inventories. "House Rules" are strictly enforced or the crowds would get out of hand.

High school youths carrying portable radios, men and women improperly dressed, and smoking are all taboos. Children must be accompanied by adults. The grounds must be policed from the trampling crowds. Mr. Wall had the answer to the problems and I'm sure could and would be glad to be consulted if our Association had these problems.

Mr. Herbert C. Darbee, Old Sturbridge Village, gave an out­ standing presentation of the subject, "New Light on Our Ances­ tors." The history of artificial illumination dating from the socalled "lamps" of the ancients through the various types of candles, whale oil lamps, to the kerosene oil lamps, was graphically illustrated by presenting specimens of lights, and explaining each type.

He completed his talk with comments about modern forms of illumination with respect to museums and exhibits, especially non-replaceable, old exhibits, pointing out that some modern lights are ruinous to the textures of old material to say nothing of giving a false appearance to the exhibit because of colored rays.

A letter has been written to Mr. Darbee regarding our prob­ lem of lighting Sanderson Hall as he seemed interested, and we are hopeful that he may make worth-while suggestions.

Annual Dinner and Reception

Chairman David E. Finley presided at the Annual Dinner and Reception which was held Saturday evening. Various guests of honor were introduced. The president, Mr. Howland, gave a short talk, and was followed by Mr. James Parton, editor of American Heritage, who delivered the address of the evening.

His subject, "Interpreting America's Heritage," was enthusiastic­ ally received.

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HISTORIC NANTUCKET

Round Table Discussion "Community Action for Preservation" was the theme of the Sunday morning program planned especially for members of the Boards of Architectural Review and delegates from His­ toric Districts. Your delegate attended the breakfast as a delegate for the Nantucket Historic Districts, a member organization, and was privileged to sit at the head table with Messrs. Howland, President of National Trust; John Codman of Beacon Hill, Baker of Salem, and several others. It was reported that there are now fourteen cities and towns which have established Historic Areas under some sort of control, most of them under zoning acts, namely: Alexandria, Va,.; Annapolis, Md.; Boston (Beacon Hill), Mass.; Charlottesville, Va.; Charleston, S. C.; Georgetown, Wash­ ington, D. C.; Lexington, Mass.; Nantucket, Mass.; Natchez, Miss.; New Orleans, La.; Richmond, Va.; Salem, Mass.; Williams­ burg, Va., and Winston-Salem, N. C. To this list may be added two areas outside of the Conti­ nental United States, namely, St. Croix, V. I., and Puerto Rico.

Two are in the so-called formation stage, Albuquerque, N. M., and Falmouth, Mass. Providence, R. I., is one of the larger cities now conducting a survey of an area of 400 acres corresponding roughly to the original seventeenth century settlement in the time of Roger Williams.

Talks were given by Mr. Howland and Mr. Codman on Historic area preservation and the assistance the National Trust can and has rendered in such work. There followed an hour of ques­ tion and answer discussions. There was unanimous agreement that a division or department should be formed within the Na­ tional Trust to consist of representatives of Historic preservation areas to act as a clearing house to: Discuss mutual problems, help each other exchange information and ideas, receive timely bul­ letins by the National Trust, publish special items in the National Trust, quarterly news, and secure membership of all Historic areas in National Trust.

It was decided that the President of National Trust should appoint, for the first year, a committee, and chairman thereof, representative of the Boards and Districts, members of the Trust.

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Present members number only four, namely, Alexandria, Va., Boston (Beacon Hill), Nantucket, and New Orleans, La. Others are expected to join and to this end special efforts will be made by the new committee.

Panel Session Miss Mary Wayfield Scott, Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities, spoke on the subject of area preservation as did Mr. Samuel Wilson, Jr., on "Vieux Carre in New Orleans."

A third speaker, Michael Frome, Travel Editor, American Auto­ mobile Association, emphasized the ever-growing public interest in historic buildings, sites, etc.

Need for Historic Districts The various lectures during the three days impressed me with the growing national interest in the historical past and the efforts being made toward preservation and presentation of historic buildings, sites, and areas. However, in visiting Plymouth, Salem, Danvers, Marblehead, Lynn, Ipswich, the Essex area, I was shocked at the inroads of modern dwellings, business, and run down buildings in the old parts of the cities and towns.

Historic area preservation such as we have in Nantucket is impos­ sible except to a limited degree. It emphasized to me, beyond words, the tremendous economic value and potential Nantucket has in its presently defined Historic Districts. The Historical Association took a leading and active part in the creation of the Historic Districts and the enactment of the control act, but let it not be said that thereafter they rested, but rather that the Asso­ ciation always continues to extend active support in carrying out the provisions of the Act by the Historic Districts Commission, thus helping to insure the "preservation of Nantucket's antiquity, its famed heritage, and its illustrious past as a whaling port" and can have satisfaction as a participant in insuring and de­ veloping Nantucket's present and future economy.

Further Reports It was reported at the convention that 2,018 individuals are now members of the Trust, and that organizations holding mem­ bership number approximately 250, of which 50 were added this year. These are representative of all parts of the country.

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HISTORIC NANTUCKET

In closing my report I wish to say that I feel it was most worth while to have attended this meeting. Further I think it is important that the Association continue its membership in the National Trust for Historic Preservation not only for its own benefit and that of the Town but also to be able to contribute to the work of the Trust in the field of National Historic preserva­ tion.

"Rebel's Daughter" Florence Bennett Anderson, a former resident of Nantucket, and a descendant of one of the first English Proprietors of the Island, and whose mother, Mrs. Elizabeth C. Bennett, was one of the founders of Nantucket Historical Association and for many years secretary of the Association, has recently added another book to her already impressive list of interesting, accurate, and erudite stories of New England, and, to us more important, the settlement of Nantucket.

You will recall Mrs. Anderson as the author of "A Grand­ father for Benjamin Franklin," "Through the Hawse-Hole," and "An Off-Islander." All of these stories with a Nantucket back­ ground, and one the true story of a Nantucket Whaling Captain.

"Rebel's Daughter" is a romantic story of the Revolutionary Period revolving about a New England girl and an English Lord. The complex issues both political and individual, the grow­ ing pains of the new England breaking away from the mother country, England, are depicted with practiced artistic skill, and historical cognizance.

In Keziah Coffin Fanning's Diary you will note the entry: "Sept. 13, 1808—Peter Folger died to-day—a.m." This Peter Folger was a cousin of Benjamin Franklin who lived on the Island.

Briefly Noted - A Few Gifts The Oldest House One incident among many interesting ones which occurred at the Oldest House this past year (1957) happened when Miss Clark, the custodian, asked a little tot one day if he would like

A FEW GIFTS

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to walk into the fireplace and look up to see where Santa Claus came down. The little fellow did walk to the fireplace, stood inside, gazed up the chimney for some time. Finally Miss Clark inquired if he could see where Santa came down, and he replied, "Yes, and does he bring antiques down to you every day?"

Mrs. William Perkins, chairman of the Oldest House, reports that many nice gifts do come, perhaps not by way of the chimney but from the Blue Above by way of good friends. Recently Mrs. Lewis S. Edgarton presented a deer-skin rug which adds effec­ tively to the furnishings of the House.

Friends Meeting House

Some repair of the steps of the Friends Meeting House has been a need of the Association for the past several months.

Recently members of the Meeting who are also good friends of the Historical Association have given a sum of money to cover the cost of this repair which will be done before the Meetings are again in session. We wish to thank these friends for their kindness and generosity in assisting us with this quite urgent need.

Log Book

Among other gifts which the Historical Association has re­ ceived (all gifts will be listed in a later issue) is the Log Book of the ship "Enterprise." This log is of great interest to many people and has been gratefully received from Mrs. Carl H. Bolter of Lexington, Mass.

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Do You Know?

BY NANCY S. ADAMS

Do you know that among the curiosities in the Fair Street Historical Museum there are items of interest that the casual visitor sometimes misses in his ramblings through the building?

Among these curiosities are the following: The chest of drawers which, belonged to the Newbegin sisters, in the drawers of which their pet hens were allowed to lay their eggs. When the sisters moved from their home to the Friends Asylum on Main Street they carried the chest with them.

When they died the chest was sold to Mrs. Ann E. Barrett who sold it to the Historical Association with an affidavit of its authenticity.

Tristram Coffin Cradle An old wooden cradle said to have rocked the original Tris­ tram Coffin in his birthplace, Brixton, England, 1605, and brought here later for his own family. It is a pine cradle and there are some facts that might almost make one believe this story to be true. It was once painted with the inscription, "A lineal descend­ ant of Tristram."

The Bamboo Cane

A bamboo cane with a whistle in the top which sounds four notes of the musical scale, hidden within the cane, in true Mr. Moto style, is a dagger! The history of the cane dates from the War of 1812. While the question of Nantucket's neutrality hung in the balance a vessel was sighted coming to the bar, appearing to have unfriendly intentions. Some of the townspeople went out to the ship and brought the Commodore and his officers to the wharf where they were met by Aaron Mitchell who was one of the Island's most affluent and influential citizens. Mr. Mitchell invited the Commodore and his men to his home, "dined and wined" them. After such good cheer they promised him that Nantucket should be considered neutral ground. When they were leaving the Commodore passed this cane to Mr. Mitchell request­ ing him to keep it as a remembrance. The cane was carefully preserved by Mr. Mitchell's grandson, Henry Valentine, and came to the Historical Association at his death.

DID YOU KNOW?

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Nantucket Calendar Pictures The Historical Association has a complete set of pictures from The Inquirer and Mirror calendars beginning with the first ones published in 1914. They were given to the Association in memory of Miss Annie Sheffield Ray who had started this col­ lection at the time of her death. Who else can boast of a collection of these beautiful Nantucket pictures?

Scrimshaw There is in the Fair Street Museum a beautiful specimen of scrimshaw work which is a dressing case with mirror, inlaid with one thousand nine hundred small pieces of ivory and ebony. This was made by Captain James Archer on the Barque Afton in 1859 and was donated to the Association by his children.

Tract Against Slavery In 1916, Mrs. Eunice Barney Swain donated over 60 manu­ scripts of great historical value to the Historical Association.

Some of these have been preserved in two volumes bound in English morocco and processed by the Emery Preservation Com­ pany. One of these manuscripts is the First Tract of Elihu Cole­ man against slavery, written in 1729, and in part reads: To the Reader.

Before I speak of the unlawfulness of this practice of making Slaves, it is my mind to give a relation how, and after what manner I came to understand it so; and for why, and for what reason I now speak against it. After I had arrived at the years of a man, I was very desirous that I might come to know the Lord myself: for although I did believe I was educated or taught the right way, yet upon serious consideration, I came to see that the religion of a man's education, was not the religion of his, but of them that educated him; . . . and after I had considered the principles of those my friends called Quakers, I did, and now do believe that they are undeniably good, and that those that keep close to them, I do believe that there can never any weapon be formed that shall prevail against them. ... I found a neces­ sity in myself to join with those peoples, whose principles were so good: . . . the same necessity I now find to speak against that which is evil, although it may be in some of

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HISTORIC NANTUCKET

them. . . . Although some may think it hard to have this practice spoken against, that has been carried on so long pretty much in silence, . . . believing it to be my duty so to do, I have written according to the understanding I have had Thereof. ... I am not unthoughtful of the ferment or stir that such a discourse as this may make. ... I myself have ob­ served, that those people that dwell nearest the truth and are most engaged in it, are more concerned for spreading of it than for any thing in this world, cannot allow of this practice, they seeing it to be oppression and cruelty. . . .

(From the introductory remarks.)

"A Testimony against that anti-christian practice of Making Slaves of Men." Such hath been the love and goodness of God to men, that in all ages of the world he has had a people, family or church whom he hath called and also chosen, to bear a testimony to his name and truth. Yet it may be ob­ served by them that read the Holy Scriptures, . . . that those people in times of liberty and ease, grew forgetful of God. This aptness to forget God in a time of ease, the Apostle Paul well knew, . . . and could say, I take pleasure in infirmities, in reproaches, ... in distresses for Christ's sake: For when I am weak, then am I strong. 2 Cor. xii 10. ... Now I do be­ lieve that God sometimes affiicteth outwardly, and sometimes inwardly, who best knows the rod that is suitable to chastise with. . . . after our friend George Fox had travelled in the island of Barbadoes in the West-Indies, where he saw this practice of making slaves, even to that degree, that their houses were black with them that he bore open testimony against it, when he got home he wrote a little book to them, . . . (Fox wrote . . .) "It will doubtless be very acceptable to the Lord, if so be that the masters of families here would deal so (as freed bondsmen) with their servants the negroes and blacks whom they have bought with their money, to let them go free after a considerable term of years, if they have served them faithfully: and when they go and are made free, let them not go away empty handed." . . . Now by these words (though but a small part of what he wrote) we may see that he (George Fox) was against making slaves of men. Now I do believe if men were ingenuous to acknowl­ edge the truth, even as their consciences bear them witness,

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DID YOU KNOW?

I need not go any farther for proof against this practice: but because they be not, I will turn also to the Holy Scriptures, that so they that are in this practice may be condemned by both. First, we may observe, when God had created man, that he gave him a free will, and would not compel the will of man, no not to that which was good, much less to that which was evil; therefore we ought not to compel our fellow crea­ tures. . . . Now I have often considered how earnestly some men will search into the etymology or original of some things that may be but small, and in the mean while omit the greater. Now in my judgement everything ought to be looked upon according to the importance, weight or value of the thing; for to be very zealous in a small thing, and pass lightly over greater, that zeal may be more properly called super­ stition than good zeal, which should be grounded upon knowledge. Now I would have all to consider of this practice of making slaves of negroes, or others that we can get the mastery over, to see upon what foundation it stands, or to see what the original of it was, whether or no pride and idle­ ness was not the first rise of it, that they might go with white hands, and that their wives might (Jezebel like) paint and adorn themselves, and their sons and daughters be brought up in idleness, which may be very well the mother of all vice; for it is generally the richest sort of people that have them, that could do best without them, for the poor are not so able to get them. . . . Now we may find that man-stealing and manslaying were joined together, and there was the same pun­ ishment for the one as for the other. See Exod. xxi 12, 13, 14, 15, 16. "And he that smiteth a man, so that he die, shall surely be put to death. And he that stealeth a man, and selleth him, or if he be found in his hands, he shall surely be put to death." . . . And now, I would have all to turn their minds inward, to that divine monitor or counsellor, placed in the heart of man, which is as agreeable to the Holy Scrip­ tures (I do believe) as any internal thing can be to an ex­ ternal one; to which I'll leave my reader, even to that ever blessed Spirit, One with the Father.

Elihu Coleman Nantucket, the 20th of the 11th Mo. 1729-30.

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HISTORIC NANTUCKET

When Elihu Coleman wrote this Tract on Slavery he was thirty-one years old. For many years he was the Friends, or Quaker Meeting, leader.

THE ELIHU COLEMAN HOUSE HAWTHORNE LANE, NANTUCKET

This house was built by Elihu Coleman in 1722 when he was twenty-three years old. He married Jemima Barnard. Eight children were born to them in this house.

The house has changed very little in appearance since the time it was built. It was for some years open to the public but is now the summer home of Mrs. Walter D. Blair (Elizabeth Hollister Frost) who is the author of "This Side of Land; An Island Epic," and short articles, one of which was published in Yankee Magazine.

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Reminiscenses Of Old Podpis

BY ALCON CHADWICK Class of 1923, Nantucket High School.

Winner of First Prize in Nantucket Historical Association's Contest.

Six miles east of Nantucket town, and bordering the south shore of an inner harbor, namely Polpis, or Podpis, is the quiet little district of the same name. It is partly surrounded by the inland waterway, which takes the form of a "U." Swain's Neck, a penin­ sula, breaks up the harbor. From this, Polpis gets its name, which means "the divided or branch harbor."

The whole region is gently rolling, save for the great swamps.

Here the wabsche grass crowds for room, and black ducks hide along the bay. The wide view across the harbor to Coatue, and beyond to the gray town, no one ever forgets. Farm dwellings dot the landscape. Perhaps the next most conspicuous building is the school-house. With its large windows, its white flag pole, and its now silent belfry, it seems to act as a sturdy guard over the small settlement.

To the east of Polpis lies Squam, a very swampy country, with uplands overgrown with bayberry bushes and briers. Here is located the famous "Eat-Fire Spring," of Indian fame. It is large and never failing, and furnishes water now for the Heighton Farm. This water is said to be the purest on the island.

To the west is a neck of land called Quaise, which means "the end, or point." Thomas Mayhew reserved this promising tract for his own use when he sold the island of Nantucket to the ten original purchasers. South of Polpis is Spotsor. Here dwelt an Indian tribe, for whose chief, Spotsor, this region was named.

Through his wife, the daughter of Nickanoose, chief of the Wauwinet possessions, Spotsor was sachem for nearly forty years.

Podpis was occupied by the Wauwinet tribe of Indians when the island was first settled by the white men. By degrees it came into the hands of the newcomers. Nantucketers should be proud of their forefathers, because they did not steal the land away from the red men, as was done some times on the mainland, but bought it, for trinkets, beads, home-spun, and grain. According to the old records, John Swain, Sr., father of the first white male child born on the island, was one of its first settlers.

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HISTORIC NANTUCKET

As time went on Podpis grew to be a village of importance, though made up mainly of farms. Even now the chief industry is agriculture. Only about one-fourth of the large old farms, how­ ever, are left. While cultivating one often digs up bricks and mortar, the remains of old dwellings. They used to keep large herds of cattle, which were allowed then to graze on the com­ mons. All the land on the island, with the exception of house lots, was owned in common by a body of share-holders called "The Pro­ prietors of the Common and Undivided Lands." None of this was set off to individuals until the latter part of the last century. Then it was gradually bought up, and the farmers were forced to have their own pastures. Their chief crops were field corn and hay, up to about the year 1890, when Nantucket Island began to grow into a summer resort. At that time they began to do a little market gardening.

The great tracts of the old-time were owned mainly by re­ tired sea captains, who, having either made their fortune or else lost it, settled down here to spend their declining days. Two of these were Capt. Joy, whose farm was on the lane almost opposite the schoolhouse, and Capt. Rule, who lived on the farm now oc­ cupied by Harry Dunham.

Capt. Joy was a famous whaling master and later took up farming. He was a resolute, hard working man. It is a good thing that he was, for he was the father of eight children. One of the Joy boys, after ploughing all day, was not too tired to walk the six miles to town to see the girls.

As shoes were made at home in those days they were pre­ served with care, and then passed along. The thrifty lad went barefooted as far as what we call now "Our Island Home." The leather strings of his home-made shoes were tied together and thrown around his neck, so a shoe was swinging on each side. On his way home he trudged along in his precious shoes until he reached his favorite out-post. Then he took them off, hung them on his shoulders, and footed it on home to Podpis in his bare feet.

Perhaps the best known of the old farmers was Frederick C. Sanford, a retired Nantucket shipowner, who, like other island­ ers of means, invested in a farm "out Polpis way." He used to wear a silk hat, drive a fast horse, and walk about with one hand in a coat-tail pocket. Many Nantucketers still remember him. His

REMINISCENCES OF OLD PODPIS

21

town mansion, on the corner of Broad and Federal Streets, is now occupied by Capt. Killen.

Mr. Sanford's farms included those now owned by a gunning club, and the two belonging to the Nantucket Cranberry Co., known as the Polpis Club, Beechwood, and Norwood, respectively.

It is said that while Mr. Sanford carried on the farm on Swain's Neck they used to turn up shells a foot deep by plough. He said that Spotsor and his Indians had probably put them there; but geologists have told that they indicated an ante-glacial deposit, other traces of which have been found in the Sankaty Bluffs and while digging wells and cellars.

Farming was not the only occupation in old Podpis in former days. We find that a number of fulling mills were in operation during the colonial times. One of these, built over the small stream halfway between the public school house and the junction of the Polpis road, was in use in the year 1772. It was managed by a Scotchman named Nichol, with whom David Allen served as an apprentice until he became master of the trade. This Mr. Allen made the first cut nails ever used on the island or even perhaps in this country.

A fulling mill was also built by the Gardner brothers at Podpis, but its exact location is not known. Another was operated at Quaise. Salt making was carried on, on a large scale, on Quaise point. This busy, bustling village of Podpis was evidently more prosperous than the present Polpis.

Another necessary employment here was peat digging. The greater part of the peat used on Nantucket was found and dug in and around Podpis. These extensive beds seem to prove that at some time a great many trees grew on the island. Bartholomew Gosnold, who may have landed here first, reported that the east­ ern part of the island was densely covered with large trees when they found the island. Peat was for some time the chief fuel.

Some of the older Islanders can remember now when coal was introduced here. Nantucket people did not like it, for it was so hard to kindle.

Peat gathering, especially during the War of 1812, when the British blockaded the island, and during the Civil War, when coal was a great luxury, became an important industry. The old beds are now low, wet swamps. To prepare peat for use, first the trees must be cleared; then the roots were pulled out and the

22

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

turf removed, in much the same way as the Sankaty Head Golf grounds are being cleared today. Next the peat was dug out, hauled to a bed, and harrowed until the lumps were well broken up.

Water was thrown on them to make the mass soft and pasty, so that they could slick it off and mark it into squares. The slicker was usually a board, with a pole attached to both ends. This was drawn over the peat to smooth it off. A hay fork was used to mark it into squares. When the top of the peat was dry they turned the squares with forks and sometimes by hand. The peat, when ready, was piled in long, narrow houses, with tight roofs, and slats on the sides.

Great care was taken to get this fuel well dried before the white frost came; otherwise, it would crumble. Peat digging time always followed haying. It was common to hear the old farmer say: "Got to hustle and get this haying done, so we can get at peating 'fore the frost comes on." ^ Some of the houses of the Podpises, who were, of course, participants in the thriving industries of the settlement, are worthy of mention. The oldest was George Swain, Sr.'s. This dwelling, which stood on the farm now owned by Franklin P. Chadwick, was built, it is said, about 1684. If so, it was two years older than "the Oldest House," in town, the date of which is 1686.

Near this site a cannon ball was found recently by the writer's brother, while planting potatoes. It is reasonable to suppose this was fired here by the British during the War of 1812.

The second oldest, called the Meader house, stood near the Quaise line. A part of this was nearly as old as the Jethro Coffin house. It is said that when they took it down they found three floors in the parlor. The bark still remained on the timbers, and they were faced only where the floors rested. This structure and many others were built of the island timber.

The next oldest building known was constructed in 1704,

by George Swain, Sr., for his daughter Elizabeth, who married Joshua Sevolle. This old landmark stood directly opposite the present school house. Love Smith was its last occupant. It was blown down in 1902, after having stood for nearly 200 years.

The cottage now owned by E. J. Hollister, on the high bluff in Quaise, overlooking the upper harbor, contains some timber, and five one-plank oak doors, from the famous Miriam Coffin house, the cellar hole of which is close by. "Miriam" (Keziah)

REMINISCENCES OF OLD PODPIS

23

Coffin was a shrewd and wealthy ship owner. She had built a handsome town mansion, on what is now Mrs. Maria T. Swain's lawn on Centre Street, and then this country house in Quaise.

From this secluded spot, she was supposed to have a tunnel to the shore, to use in smuggling. As yet, however, no trace of it has been found. History tells us that Miriam is believed to have rendered aid to the British during the Revolution, and that she was tried at Watertown later for smuggling.

We must not forget the Farmers' Institute, or the "Polpis Court House," as it was sometimes called. This was a one-room shack, which stood first on the lane almost opposite the schoolhouse. It was afterward moved to a site near the mill pond. A few years ago it was blown down. Here, about 1855, the men folks gathered evenings to talk over the current news, and to brag about their crops, while the old whalers in the village were "gam­ ming" in the "Captain's Room." They continued to meet here until about 1900. Near this building is a large boulder, which, as the story goes, jumped the fence one night. The truth is that the owner of the neighboring pasture moved his fence after dusk on the other side of the rock to get more land.

Polpis seems very quiet now, when we compare it with the flourishing village of old Podpis. It is, however, a beautiful place to live in. One can look for miles, from any point of the settle­ ment. Strangers have begun to realize that this part of the island has great charm. Three summer cottages have been bought by off-islanders within the last few years. Now that a perma­ nent road is to be build through to 'Sconset, it is predicted that much of the travel will be lured this way, and that the settlement here will increase.

Thus, this beautiful section of the island has changed from a bustling village to a quiet little settlement, and from "Podpis" to "Polpis." No one who has grown up on a farm, with the sea­ scape in front, the brown and green hummocky landscape behind, and the old echoes and traditions all around would ever "wish to change his place."

Mr. Alcoa Chadwick, who won the Historical Association's First Prize with the above essay, in 1923, is a descendant of one of Nantucket's early settlers and continues to reside o.n the island.

He has served as Treasurer of the Nantucket Institution for Sav­ ings for several years.

24

History Making Events of 1957 Whaling Museum News On October 13 the Museum closed for the summer season of 1957 after recording a new high record of 20,118 paid admis­ sions. This figure does not include Association members and children under 12 years of age to whom admission is free which would bring the total attendance considerably over the paid ad­ mission figure. We are proud of this record and the satisfactory manner in which these visitors were received and guided through the Museum by the members of our staff.

Sanderson Hall has never had any artificial lighting with the result that on stormy days throughout the summer and in the late afternoons during August, September, and October visi­ tors' enjoyment of the exhibits has been greatly impaired be­ cause of lack of proper light. A new lighting system with spot lights hidden so far as possible on the sides of beams and rafters has been installed. For this we are indebted to several very loyal members whose special contributions for this project have made this greatly needed installation possible, which will add tre­ mendously to the public enjoyment of the many exhibits in San­ derson Hall.

Another step in the restoration of the building has been found necessary, namely the relaying of the ground floor flooring in the Entrance Hall, the Counting Room, and the Scrimshaw Room. The beams, underpinning and much of the flooring has rot­ ted beyond repair from the ever-present moisture arising from the ground due to the proximity of the location to the harbor and its water level. The present flooring is being replaced with a con­ crete floor laid on dry sand. The concrete floor will be surfaced with a special form of durable tile selected especially with a view to standing wear and tear of the number of people walking every day during the summer over the small area involved at the entrance hall. This type of construction, also, will eliminate de­ terioration from moisture as there will be no air space or wooden construction involved in the new flooring.

HISTORY MAKING EVENTS — 1957

25

The Steamship Line

History once more repeats itself in Nantucket. The Steam­ ship line, Nantucket's artery to the mainland has, since Peter Folger first came to survey the home sites on the Island, in 1660, been a subject for debate and dissension. On Saturday evening, November 16, 1957, some more than 250 persons crowded into the Auditorium of the Cyrus Peirce School to attend a hearing on the subject of the Steamship Authority before a special legislative commission. This commission is investigating the New Bedford, Woods Hole, Martha's Vineyard, and Nantucket Steamship Au­ thority.

Representative Robert Mooney, of Nantucket, vice-chairman of the commission, introduced the members of the commission to the audience and, in turn, introduced the Selectmen and sev­ eral prominent citizens, representing the town government, local businesses, and interested taxpayers, who stated Nantucket's sit­ uation in relation to the Steamship Authority. The failures of the boat in keeping to schedule, the exceedingly high freight rates, and the appalling deficit which has accrued, were all ex­ pounded in some detail.

Woodland Rehabilitation

An $8,000 woodland clearing and tree planting project is now underway at the Old South Road and Lovers' Lane section of the Island. Although this is not a Historic Districts Commission site this project will greatly enhance the beauty of the Island adding to the pleasure and value of the historic sites.

Special Town Meeting

Friday, December 6, a Special Town Meeting was held in American Legion Hall. Seventy-three townspeople attended the meeting. After discussion all four articles of the warrant were approved. The articles, in brief, were: construction of an addition of 1,000 feet to one of the runways at Nantucket Memorial Air­ port; the taking of land to accommodate this runway and im­ prove the airport facilities, and the transfer of funds to the School Department to meet expense of hiring additional teach­ ers and increasing teachers' pay in accord with recommendations of the School Committee and the Finance Committee.

26

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

Beep, Beep The Soviet's satellites shattered the calm of this Island during October and November. Some folks left their comfortable beds in the early dawn to view the transit of light across the sky, some stood on Mill Hill to watch the stars appear and saw sputnik as it appeared in the early evening. Being of the earth earthy, the sputniks have inspired people with none of the pleas­ urable and mystical awe which the heavenly body discovered

by Maria Mitchell, Nantucket's own famous astronomer, aroused in 1847. October, 1957, now becomes a date to remember as was October, 1847.

Chamber of Commerce Nantucket Island Chamber of Commerce changes managers as of January 1, 1958. Mr. John H. Golden is the new manager.

Bills Filed in Legislature State Representative Robert F. Mooney has filed bills in our State Legislature for the 1958 session hearings which per­ tain to the abolishment of the Steamship Authority and replace­ ment by a Commission to contact private parties, or establish a public authority to serve the Island, and to change the assessment of the present operating deficit so that such assessment will be based on the assessed valuation of property in each community.

Another bill would provide a special committee to aid Nantucket in the celebration of its 300th birthday in 1959. Another bill re­ quests a full-time game warden for Nantucket, and still another would promote the construction of safe bicycle paths in various sections of the Commonwealth, including Nantucket. This bill was requested by Dr. Paul Dudley White of Boston, who has en­ joyed bicycling on the Island.

27

Keziah Coffin Farming's Diary

BY NANCY S. ADAMS

1807 April 8—Very melancholy accounts came last Friday eve. Stephen Rawson in a Brig belonging to this place, on his passage home from loaded with salt, ran on the rocks last Friday night.

Every soul on board perished that went from here, viz: the Cap­ tain, Thad Bunker (Uriah's son) first mate Barnard, son of Matthew, the second mate. Women's and children's apparel have been found on board but it is not known whose they are.

The Brig split in two but the stern rose so that some few things were got out of the cabin. I spent the night at Mrs. Bunker's. Ben Coffin was her husband's sister's son that lived at St. John Is­ land, who was lost on the Brig.

April 12—Clarissa Macy is very sick tis thought she is in a decline. She had a son in Dec. and has not been out since.

April 30—Mr. Beauchamp & wife & child, Judith Russel and Abraham sailed to-day with Gilbert Swain for New York from there they are bound 500 miles into country to settle on a branch of the Ohio River. Mr. Beauchamps father and brethren live here.

July 5—Mr. Medcalf preached, came to the Island this P.M. is to be preacher here for the coming year.

August 4—Went to Eben Rand's to his childs funeral.

August 28—Mrs. Plumb and Mrs. Cannon excluded from Church for breach of discipline in not attending class and sacrament.

Sept. 6—Lengthy letter from Mr. Cannon withdrawing from the Church.

Oct. 2—Attended Mrs. Gelstons funeral.

Oct. 18—Eben Calif died A.M. Nov. 11—Went to Uncle Starbuck's. Lydia returned from New York last Sabbath. Wm. Starbuck, Lydia's nephew died of Con­ sumption.

Nov. 29—Lydia Starbuck & Kezia Pierce admitted on trial.

28

HISTORIC NANTUCKET 1808

Jan. 2—Capt. Frederic Gardner was drowned just outside the Bar. Was coming from N. Y. via New Bedford Packet. Coming in over the Bar was struck by boom and knocked overboard & they could not save him. He married Mattie Rice.

Jan. 9—Love Cartwright, James' wife, died suddenly yesterday.

Jan. 10—Mrs. Burnell, E. Chace & Nancy Fanning drank tea here & a China man that came with Mr. Whitney last fall from Canton, he is a merchant there, he is the color of our white natives.

Feb. 12—Jethro Hussey buried to-day, Masons attended in regalia.

March 22—Edmund Fanning & Nabby Giles married this eve

by Mr. Gurney. Love Calder received into Society.

May 19—Mr. Coye (our stationed minister) wife & 2 children came to Island to-day.

June 5—Hitty had daughter born to-day.

Aug. 31—My son William & his oldest son John came to Island to-day. Left wife & 2 children at Long Island. It is 9 years since he left Nantucket.

Sept. 12—Charles Hatch died to-day—sick 10 days, said to be yellow fever.

Sept. 13—Peter Folger died to-day—A. M. Dec. 3—Had my likeness taken to-day by Mr. Weaver of Boston.

Dec. 8—Nabby Fanning had a son born to-day.

1809 Jan. 4—Shubael Mooers has lately returned from Europe after an absence of years, with a great deal of money.

Jan. 18—Presbyterian prayer meeting at Jethro Starbucks. Elisha Raymond & Wilson Rawson spoke. Aunt Abagail Coffin died to­ day.

Jan. 24—Thankful Gardner excluded from Church.

Jan. 26—Kezia Joy died to-day after a long & lingering illness.

KEZIAH COFFIN FANNING'S DIARY

29

Feb. 21—Thomas Bunker died suddenly A.M. Feb. 25—Debby Chadwick buried to-day, burned herself shock­ ingly in face & neck 4 weeks ago.

March 11—5 Boats went off last eve with 75 bbls. flour in them for Polpis harbor. A vessel lying at East end to take it on — it is contraband trade, Jara Wood & Samuel Burnell was in one boat, with 16 bbls. flour — two Manters & Elijah Cash with 2 boats—Ben Swain, Uriah Swain, Jr., Zimir (?) Chace, Judah's son, with 2 boats, one of the last mentioned boats upset betwix the South Wharf & Pest House the other filled with water— Ben Swain kept in the boat & she floated so near in with the creeks that he got on shore, almost perished—the other two U. Swain & Chace got on the bottom of their boat and were drowned.

The other two boats upset off Quaise, the men almost perished on the bottom of one of the boats, but got on shore at Quaise—Bur­ nell & Jara got aground on flat going into Polpis Harbor, when they threw their flour after which they lay 3 hours bailing with the rudder of the boat & part of the time with their boat having breaking seas all over them, but they got on shore at Polpis & went up to Ben Swain's almost perished.

April 30—Mr. Coye baptised 11 persons by immersion at New Wharf Jaba Perry, Wm. & John Jenkins, Jr., Hezekiah Reynolds, Matthew Smith, William Holmes, Josiah Gorham, Nathan , Polly & Eliza Morselander & Zukey Jenkins. Tis said there were more people collected together by several hundred than ever known on any occasion on this Island. Elizabeth Swain's husband's body came ashore at Quaise yesterday.

May 2—Thomas Coffin, an old man died yesterday. Judah Chace's son's body came on shore at Brant Point. George Fitch died very suddenly to-day. Had been indisposed but not thought dangerously sick. His coffin was said to have been several inches larger than was remembered ever to have been made.

May 6—Mahala Coffin (Paul Coggeshall's daughter) died just be­ fore night, very sudden, she was delivered of a child, she and child died immediately.

May 21—Elizabeth Wyer (Hugh's wife Polly Coffin (Jos. Coffin's dau.) Kata Gardner & a black woman were received on trial in the Church. Peter Chace buried in the Newtown burying ground.

30

HISTORIC NANTUCKET

May 27 to June 29—In Boston. Speaks of sister Fanning's living on School Street, Mr. Beane living on Corn Hill. Gov. Lincoln, se­ lectman & escort marching to hear election sermon. South Metho­ dist Church. New Exchange a superb building, 8 stories high, 212 rooms. Church of England, North End. Election Day new Gov. Gore escorted into town from his country seat by 900! horsemen, 63 chairs, coaches & phaetons etc. in all 100 carriages or more, guns fired & & Etc. Visited States Prison at Charlestown. John been embargoed at Amsterdam since Jan. 24, 1808.

July 8—New Minister, Mr. Rexford arrived.

July 9 to Dec. 16—Was in New York. Speaks of yellow fever scare there in July, walking to battery & to Steamboat, No. 28.

Son John captured & carried into London, afterwards liberated.

Dec. 21—John Bunker died A.M. 1810

Jan. 16—Hitty had daughter born at sunrise.

March 18—John Jenkins & Amelia Stubbs married in meeting by Mr. Rexford.

April 6—Lydia Pinkham died Wednesday—consumption.

April 22—1/2 Past 10 went to the new Meeting House to see Mr. Swift ordained, very full house. Mr. Pratt made the first prayer.

Mr. Symonds preached the sermon. Mr. Thaxter of Old Town gave the charge, Mr. Waterman gave the right hand of fellow­ ship. Mr. Symonds made the closing prayer.

May 12—Thankful Coffin died to-day. Paralytic shock.

July 6—Andrew Coffin Hussey, son of Christopher deceased, at­ tempted suicide, health poor and poor in purse. Ephram Coffin died to-day.

{To Be Continued)

31

Legacies and Bequests Membership in our Association proves that you are interested in its program for the preservation of Nantucket's famed heritage and its illustrious past, which so profoundly affected the develop­ ment of our country. You can perpetuate that interest by naming the Association to receive a legacy or bequest under your will which will help to insure the Association carrying on in the future. Counsel advises that legacies or bequests to the Nan­ tucket Historical Association are allowable deductions under the Federal Estate Tax law.

Legacies will be used for general or specific purposes as di­ rected by the donor. A sample form of bequest may read as follows: FORM OF BEQUEST "I give, devise, and bequeath to the Nantucket Historical Association, a corporation duly in­ corporated by the Commonwealth of Massachu­ setts, and located in the Town of Nantucket, in said Commonwealth, the sum of dollars."

Bequests may be made also in real estate, bonds, stocks, books, paintings, or any objects having historical value in which event a brief description of the same should be inserted instead of a sum of money.

The Mighty Whale "Thou didst, 0 Lord, Create the mighty whale, That wondrous monster of a mighty length; Vast is his head and body, vast his tail, Beyond conception his unmeasured strength.

When he the surface of the sea hath broke, Arising from the dark abyss below, His breath appears a lofty stream of smoke, And circling waves, like glittering banks of snow."

These two stanzas are quoted by Obed Macy in his "History of Nantucket" which was published in 1880. They were written by a native, but unnamed, poet about 1790, probably after a whale, which, as Mr. Macy has written, "was drawn upon the wharf where thousands of people during the day had an opportunity of beholding what had hitherto been to them only the theme of their songs or of their fireside. . .

THE COMPANY AND CREW President, George W. Jones.

Vice-Presidents, Howard U. Chase, Burnham N. Dell, Stokeley W. Morgan, Everett U. Crosby, Miss Grace Brown Gardner, W. Ripley Nelson.

Secretary-Treasurer, Miss Ethel Anderson.

Auditor, Ormonde F. Ingall.

Councillors, George W. Jones, chairman; Mrs. Joseph King, Robert C. Cald­ well, term expires 1958; Mrs. Cyril C. Ross, Albert Egan, Jr., term expires 1959; Mrs. William L. Mather, Mrs. William Perkins, term expires 1960; Richard J. Porter, Oswell J. Small, term expires 1961 Honorary Custodian of Collections, Mrs. Nancy S. Adams.

Custodian of Collections, Mrs. William L. Mather.

Finance Committee, Stokeley W. Morgan, chairman.

Editor, Historic Nantucket, Miss Alma P. Robbins.

Publicity Committee, Stokeley W. Morgan, chairman, Richard J. Porter.

Exhibit's Publications Committee, Burnham N. Dell, chairman, Mrs. John Bartlett, Mrs. William Perkins, Miss Ruth Haviland Sutton.

Chairman of Exhibits, Fair Street Museum, Mrs. William Mather; Whaling Museum, W. Ripley Nelson; Oldest House, Mrs. William Perkins; Old Mill, Robert Caldwell; Old Jail, Oswell Small; 1800 House, Mrs. Robert Ray. Post Office—Box 1016

Office, Fair Street Museum