Nantucket Magazine Spring 2010

N magazine |

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spring

N Magazine

Chairman and Publisher

Bruce A. Percelay Creative Director

Nathan Coe Copy Editor

Cris Farley Art Director

Paulette Chevalier Contributors

Kate Coe Kristen Hull Gene Mahon Terry Pommett David Silva Photographers

Gene Mahon Terry Pommett Kristina Ransom Van Lieu Photography Andrew Wilding General Manager

Jeanette Garneau Advertising Director

Fifi Greenberg Advertising Sales

Rebecca Becker Publishers N, LLC

Chairman: Bruce A. Percelay President: Thomas L. duPont Vice President: Lynda A. Levy Secretary: Franklin Levy

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Nantucket Times 17 North Beach Street Nantucket, MA 02554 508-228-1515

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duPont REGISTRY 3051 Tech Drive St. Petersburg, FL 33716 800-233-1731 TM

ŠCopyright 2009 Nantucket Times. Nantucket Times (N Magazine) is published seven times annually from April through December. Reproduction of any part of this publication is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. Editorial submissions may be sent to Editor, Nantucket Times, 17 North Beach Street, Nantucket, MA 02554. We are not responsible for unsolicited editorial or graphic material. Office (508) 228-1515 or fax (508) 228-8012. Artco Printing, Canton, MA.

The InsiderÂ’s Guide to Nantucket only on Plum TV and streaming live on plumtv.com.

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A Toast to Spring While Nantucket and Boston were spared heavy snows, the cancellation of the global warming summit in Washington D.C. due to a major blizzard said it all.

Bruce A. Percelay

Nantucket was hardly spared the effects of extreme weather, as witnessed by the dramatic erosion on Baxter Road and Smith’s Point. While the Sconset Beach nourishment program was soundly defeated last year; striking photos by Sharon and Dirck Van Lieu combine with a story written by Cris Farley to vividly illustrate the clear and present danger for those living on the water’s edge.

This issue happily reminds us of our region’s most beloved rite of spring; the return of the Red Sox. Legendary Sox shortstop Nomar Garciaparra graces our cover which is especially timely due to his recent decision to retire in a Red Sox uniform. Nomar will go down as among the Red Sox greats and was described by the late Ted Williams as being reminiscent of Joe DiMaggio. In a broad-ranging interview, Nomar discusses not only his life as a Red Sox player and as husband to Olympic gold-medalist soccer-star Mia Hamm, but also his passion for fine wines.

The focus of this issue of N Magazine is indeed the Wine Festival which has become one of the most popular shoulder-season events on Nantucket. N Magazine creative director Nathan Coe went to France to photograph the vineyards from which many wines featured in the festival are produced. In a stunning photo essay written by Galley Beach owner David Silva, the two toured the Burgundy region in style thanks to inside knowledge from Denis Toner, the President of the Nantucket Wine Festival.

We also take you into the home of Amber Cantella, owner of Epernay Wines on North Beach Street for a sumptuous meal with a unique twist. And, in a new feature this summer, N Magazine interviews Putnam Investments chairman Bob Reynolds on his view of both the stock market and the economy. Our feature titled ‘Sand Dollars’ will select a corporate executive each month to offer us insight into his or her profession and how it impacts us all.

For N Magazine, this new season is particularly exciting as creative director Nathan Coe takes the helm after his first spectacular issue which he produced for last Christmas Stroll.

Nathan’s creativity and impressive photographic skills are in evidence throughout this issue and we look forward to providing our readership with an even more exciting and compelling reason to pick up N Magazine. Additionally, we will be producing N Junior, our first children’s magazine, which we plan on becoming a regular part of our publishing repertoire on Nantucket.

We hope that you will savor both the wines featured during the festival and the warmth of spring as we enter a new season on Nantucket. Cheers!

Bruce A. Percelay - Publisher

Bruce A. Percelay

N magazine |

Chairman & Publisher

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Spring 2010

N’Side this issue 16

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N’Sider

A Tale of Two Festivals

Living on the Edge

N’Style

Nomar Garciaparra

A Nantucket evening with Boston’s Lydia Shire.

N’Tertain with Amber and David Cantella

Sand Dollars Executive Profile with Bob Reynolds. Putnam Investments chairman gives his views on the economy, the stock market and the Obama Adventure

What’s the Dish?

Q and A with celebrity chef Todd English and Danielle deBenedictis.

Nantucket’s omnipresent ‘Mahon about Town’ takes us through the restaurant scene and enlightens us about the changes for the 2010 season.

Todd English, the multi-restaurant owner is collaborating with The Summer House on this, his second venture on Nantucket. We asked Danielle questions the Island wants to ask.

Confessions of a Nantucket Taxi Driver

Foggysheet See what went down during the notorious off-season.

We’ll help you relive those fun, cold and dark evenings all over again!

Prepare to be amused, intrigued, even shocked as you read our new column that delves into the true stories Nantucket cab drivers have kept secret until now.

Cover

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MATTHEW SAPERA FINE HOMES

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D ESIGN | B UILD www.matthewsapera.com

telephone: 508.332.0423

Readers of N’Sider have come to enjoy the tidbits and Island goings-on that we recount and divulge in this space. In this issue, however, we spotlight a group of islanders who have made a difference in an area that has affected us all, and who have been recognized for that effort.

NEWS | TIDBITS | ITEMS OF INTEREST

Changing Suicide “Postvention” into Caring Prevention

N’Sider

N’Sider

news l tidbits l items of interest

Jenny Garneau, Jane Bonvini, John Buckey, Kevin Marshall, Rep. Tim Madden, Cheryl Bartlett, Peter Swenson, Margot Hartmann, Michael Kopko, Jackie McBrady

In 2008, after Nantucket absorbed the suicide

Garneau was tapped to be the first to lead

“Leadership in Suicide Prevention Award”

deaths of several of its Island family, the

the effort.

from the Massachusetts Coalition for Suicide Prevention.

community rallied. The goal was to create a commission which could provide a safety net of resources to identify and offer intense support going forward for those, both young and adult, who might be at risk. That commission became the Nantucket Suicide Prevention Coalition, which brought together community leaders, school staffs, and primary medical caregivers as well as Island youth clubs such as the Boys and Girls Club, and taught them not only how to recognize but how to screen, and move quickly to address, early warning signs of depression and suicide.

Working in new sociological territory, and with essentially a blank slate of

“This was made possible as a direct result

experience to guide them, the Coalition’s

of the hard work and dedication of numerous

task was formidable. “We knew that it

community leaders, state agencies, and

would take a big effort from so many

our schools,” said Nantucket’s State

individuals and groups if we were to

Representative Timothy Madden. In

create the impact that we needed to

presenting the award to Jenny, Nantucket

educate and energize our community,”

High School Principal John Buckey, Board

says Jenny, today describing the task that

of Selectman Chair, Michael Kopko and

the Coalition faced as they began their

Peter Swenson, Executive Director of

fight to save not only at-risk Nantucket

Nantucket Behavioral Health Services,

youth but also the adults who showed the

Rep. Madden noted that Nantucket’s

warning signs of depression.

“…innovative programs and initiatives have acted as a positive prevention

Following the national mantra that “good ‘postvention’ is good prevention,” the Coalition set up suicide-prevention programming and screening throughout single program has screened almost 400 students to date. Recognizing the need to coordinate all facets of the preventative process, the post of “community organizer” was created and Island resident Jenny

blank, the efforts of Jenny and her team of professionals, community leaders and volunteers, succeeded in creating and building the Island’s first multi-dimensional and -disciplined suicide prevention system.

Those efforts have not gone unnoticed, as Coalition members were summoned to Boston on February 8th to receive the

resource for the community, and serve as a model for other communities.”

Inspiring words for a group of Islanders who, from a standing start and with so much at stake, made a difference, and continue to make a difference, in our quality of life here, one Nantucketer at a time.

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the Nantucket school system and that

While that slate may have initially been

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LIVING

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ON THE

EDGE

For most inland Island residents, the news about the erosion from the recent storms is simply just news.

But if you live on Baxter Road in Sconset, hard against the Sankaty Bluff, or if your house is near the beach in Madaket, Cisco, Madequecham or Eel Point, weather is not a forecast over which you chat.

Weather can change your life.

Go out and stand where water meets sand, anywhere on the island, just before a nor’easter hits. Imagine you own that land. The storm clouds building across Nantucket Sound take on an entirely new meaning, especially this past March.

Listen to Donn O’Connell, who has lived on Smith’s Point in Madaket since 1982.

“When we bought our house, there was 800 feet of beach. During the last storm, the water came up to our driveway. Your heart sinks because you love it here, but you know you are next in line. My son once went to the State House to research beach erosion here. They told him we could expect to lose 15 feet each year. We’ve lost 80 feet in the last three weeks alone. It seems it’s only a matter of time.”

Is it inexorable, the loss of our island?

Listen to two who have lived on the ‘Sconset bluff; one for a decade, the other for all of her life.

Images by Van Lieu Photography Written by Cris Farley

N magazine | 11

and Jamie, has been a summer-long resident on Baxter Road for as far back as her memory takes her.

“As a child that we used to walk down 132 steps from our front yard to the beach, and then it was another quarter-mile through the beach grass to the water. My mother had this big bell which she would stand up on the bluff and ring to tell us it was time for lunch or dinner. It was the only way we could hear her.”

“And our lawn was wide. We could play softball or croquet, and my sister was married in that yard…. It’s

“My parents bought it (the house), really, 48

hard to imagine,

years ago, and we rented it for several years

when we had 500

before that, so it’s been

feet, that we

in our family a very

would be in the

long time.”

situation that we are now.”

This is Pam Hendrickson

That situation,

who, along with her husband, Doug, and their children, Will

specifically, is that the Hendricksons now have 15 feet of yard remaining between their home and the bluff. They did pile coirs, those gigantic bags of sand that look like beached manatees, up against the toe, or bottom, of their bluff when the winter started.

But the coirs are now gone, as is their split-

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rail fence that protected the rim of the bluff

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when they closed their home last November.

Jagged spars of turf, with no support beneath, are what remain on that edge of land; all the product of this season’s three nor’easters.

“I know there’s this impression that all these people here are hedge-fund moguls, all extremely wealthy. But for us, we’ve been

both dramatic and instructive as to whether or not the bluff is irreparable; inexorably doomed.

coming to Nantucket for almost 50 years. It’s where we all learned to ride bikes, and to drive and make friends that we still have and see each summer. And our children have done the same. They think of Baxter Road as their real home. So it’s been part of our family and our lives….and it’s really sad.” Her voice falters. “I’m sorry…”

“All you need do,” he says, “is look at the neighbors where the coirs are not in position, and you can see the difference. However, if you had a 50- or 100-year storm today that was something similar to the ‘No-Name’ storm from the early 90’s, we would probably be obliterated.”

Is it irreversible, this loss of the island we love?

“But the broader issue,” John points out, “one that various parts of Next door, John Osborn and his family bought their dream vacation house in ‘Sconset almost ten years ago, with eyes wide open. They knew that there had been substantial erosion on the bluff over the preceding years. But they wanted to restore their 1920’s bungalow-style house to its original condition, and to try to stop the erosion if they could.

“We knew there was an erosion issue, but we didn’t anticipate that it was going to get as severe as it has proven to have gotten, or as quickly as it has,” says John today.

the island are grappling with more and more, is that these bluffs, or the dunes in Madaket, or these houses, have been here for a very long time. They are an important part of the legacy of the island, and I’m cautiously optimistic that as we look at these issues over time, we will see that they are worth protecting.”

So, who owns this most precious of shores and cliffs on the island that we fell in love with, a year or a generation ago? These bluffs and crags and beach grass and dunes that are now in such jeopardy?

It’s true that most of us hold no legal title. But do we own their legacy?

Do we not embrace their beauty, and draw sustenance from their spirit?

It was the storm of 2003 or 2004, nobody’s sure exactly, when three

Did the Sconset Trust save Sankaty Head lighthouse only for those who

days of 100-mile-per-hour winds and 10- to 15-foot waves swept

donated the money used to move it? Or did they save it for all of us?

away over 40 feet of Sankaty bluff, drove the ‘Sconset Trust into high bluff into the realization that there was no time to lose in figuring out how to protect the beach and the bluff, because it was clear that the bluff could now go at any time. Unlike his neighbors, John Osborn did continue to fund the replenishment of the coirs down at the base of his bluff, and the results of that decision, at least in the short run, are

Put aside the houses and their owners. Consider only the hanging clumps of earth that now comprise the eroding bluff, or the precious beach grass and the beautiful dunes now being swept away. And the question comes to us. Are we, or should we be, the abiding caretakers of these Nantucket treasures; and if not us, who?

Image by Nathan Coe

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With Bruce A. Percelay Photography by Andrew Wilding

BOSTON’S BELOVED NOMAR Shares with N his love of family, baseball and now wine!

Nomar Garciaparra was a six-time All Star shortstop for the Boston Red Sox where he played for ten years. The only Sox player in history to have hit two grand slams at home in one game. Nomar is married to Olympic soccer gold medalist Mia Hamm, and recently retired from baseball in a Red Sox uniform.

BP: First, can you give us the origin of the name Nomar?

“Baseball is Life” and to me baseball is my life. I’m also a big

N: It’s my father’s name backwards. My father’s name is

soccer fan. And I’m not saying that because of my wife. People

Ramon, and he spelled it backwards.

ask me what the closest thing would be to Red Sox fan’s passion and intensity and it would be soccer outside the U.S.

BP: The name Nomar still stirs very deeps emotions in Red Sox Nation. What do you think is behind the intensity, particularly

BP: The only difference is Red Sox fans don’t typically murder the refs.

of the reaction to your announcement that you were going to

N: That’s true. The umpires over here are safe.

retire as a Red Sox? N: I was there for so long. I started off in Boston. The city just

BP: Speaking of soccer and your wife, how did you two meet?

absolutely embraced me and hopefully everything that I’ve

N: We met actually at a function in Boston during their pre’99 World Cup. I went over to speak to her and that’s when we first met, and ever since then we just became friends. It wasn’t until later until we even considered dating.

BP: Let’s go back to baseball. During the All-Star game, which was held at Fenway, there was a very poignant moment that was on TV where Ted Williams drove his cart up to you and you had what appeared to be a pretty intense conversation. What was your discussion with him?

N: It was quite amusing. He comes on the field at the All-Star game, what an amazing moment. All of the players gathered around him and come down the middle of the field and he’s

Nomar with his wife Mia

looking for me, like, “Where’s the kid?”. He sees me. First thing he says is, “Sorry I missed your party.” The day before I had hosted a party for a lot of my friends and sponsors who have

done as I played and actions off the field showed them that I

supported my foundation. I invited him, he felt bad he

embraced them back. I think they realize I’m just like them.

couldn’t make. It was a special moment.

I’m not better, not worse. I’m them.

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BP: I guess there wasn’t any deep message in that?

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BP: So as a Californian who perhaps may be laid-back by nature,

N: No, there really wasn’t. That’s what I loved so much about

did you find the obsessive nature of the Red Sox fan to be a little

my relationship with him. I would just go to his house, we’d

over the top?

have breakfast and chat. It wasn’t always about baseball. I

N: It’s certainly a unique environment, but I think we have

think we became so close being from Southern California,

some similarities. You always see those shirts that say

we’re both Mexican. Not many people knew that he was part

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Mexican on his mom’s side. Both Southern California boys

BP: You have tortured Red Sox fans for years with your obsessive

who go to Boston, and get embraced like we were. It was a

rituals, every time you get up to the plate. When you get home

very special relationship and I miss him dearly.

at night, do you walk around the dining room tables four times and kick the legs?

BP: When he said that you reminded him of Joe DiMaggio, what

N: No, nothing like that. I don’t think my wife could put up

was your reaction?

with me if I did all that. It’s really just at the field. I just like

N: Quite a compliment, obviously. There can only be one

things really nice and tight. If I had shoes on I just like my

Joe DiMaggio. He was so supportive throughout my career.

toes at the end of my shoes because I’m about to exert

I remember when he passed away and to the media I was

energy. So I’ve done that since I was a little kid.

telling a story. I started breaking down because there were times when I would get a phone call in the clubhouse at Fenway Park. The phone would ring, “Nomar, it’s for you,”

BP: As a multi-sport elite athlete, were there other athletes

and I’d grab it and it would be Ted on the other line, and

that you encountered that you personally were in awe with?

he’d be calling me to check in.

N: I really admired Mo Vaughn.

He would take me under his wing,

BP: Fans often wonder about meetings at the mound. Are they always serious or are they sometimes completely unrelated to what’s happening at the moment?

N: Both. There are times where they

“I think they realize I’m just like them.

I’m not better, not worse.

definitely relate to what’s going on at the moment and then there are times

I’m them. “

where you just need something totally

I was so impressed the way he played on the field and then his giving-back off the field. You marvel at how far Mark McGwire and some of these guys who hit homeruns, and Sammy Sosa.

I admire Pedro Martinez. It’s a thrill to be able to be behind Pedro Martinez and watch him pitch.

unrelated. People see that Bull Durham skit and I always think that’s such a great skit

BP: Outside of baseball, who would you say is the greatest

because you just talk about something totally unrelated at the

athlete today?

mound. Sometimes you go up in the middle of an intense

N: My wife.

| N magazine

game, and I go up and I’ll ask the guy, I’m like, “So, hey, where

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were you thinking about eating tonight after the game? Is

BP: So you’re smart too!

your family in town, maybe you can go grab a bite to eat?

N: (Laugh)

That just kind of changes the mood so they’re not so focused, can take their mind off things. kind of relax and take their

BP: Most civilian professions span 30, 40, or more years, but

mind off things.

a professional athlete’s career is much shorter. What is the

psychological impact of peaking at such

BP: How did you discover your love of wine?

What do you feel is the biggest gift

an early point in life?

N: I first got into it because of teammates.

the world of Boston fandom has given

N: I think you definitely need a rest

In baseball we’re always playing at

to you?

from baseball, the toll it takes on you

night, rarely throughout the season do

N: A lifetime of memories and love and

mentally and physically is unbelievable.

we get to sit down and have a dinner

support from these amazing fans. I’ve

It’s incredibly demanding and you’re

because we’re usually playing at that

felt it since I’ve been there, day one.

fairly exhausted by the end of each year.

time. There’s times that you either have

I felt it after they traded me, when

a day game or you’re traveling and you

I wasn’t wearing that uniform. I felt it

When you decide to retire, you hopefully

might spend the day out there. You go

when I came back, and I feel it now,

have something you can focus on. For

to a nice restaurant and you splurge on

I think obviously that is probably the

me, I’ve been very lucky. I have an

the time that you get. The veteran guys

biggest driving force of me wanting to

amazing family, lovely wife and two

would invite me out to dinner. You don’t

have the Red Sox uniform to be the last

lovely children. Fortunately, I realized the

say ‘no’ to the guys when they invite

one I ever wore. I don’t know how to

importance of getting an education and

you, and when I’d sit down and they

thank them, I don’t know if I could ever

I did well in school. I love baseball, and

asked what you wanted to drink I’d say

thank them enough. Hopefully the

now I get to work for ESPN so I get to

“OK, I’ll have some water or beer.”

things that I’ve done and the way I

share my knowledge of the game.

They’re like, “You’ll drink wine,” And

played the game when I went out there

I’d try the wine that they’d bring and

every day showed them how much

BP: Do you have interests outside of baseball?

I’d say, “Oh, you’re right. This wine’s

I appreciate them.

N: I found there’s another passion in

delicious.” Since then it just sparked

my life, and I absolutely love wine. Aside

something in me.

BP: You are definitely still a beloved figure in Boston and I’m sure people would love

from drinking it, I love studying it, learning about it and passing on that

BP: From a fan’s perspective, you have

knowledge.

given many gifts to Red Sox Nation.

to see more of you. Thank you.

NANTUCKET’S AFFECTION FOR NOMAR “As crazy as it used to make me watching him go through his glove routine before a pitch, I sure missed him when he was gone” — Carolyn Thayer, Year-round Nantucket resident “He played hard, was a wonderful player and we all loved him” — Edward Sanford, Year-round Nantucket resident “I remember when Nomar joined the team as a rookie and how Red Sox fans embraced him from the very start.

He was so respected that even after he left, some Sox fans started wearing Dodger jerseys with ‘Garciaparra’ on the back” — Lucie Wicker, Nantucket summer resident

SARAH UHRAN

N magazine |

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Vegetarian Inspiration at Hither Creek House

Anyone who suggests that haute cuisine can’t be achieved through vegetarian cooking needs to dine with David and Amber Cantella. Mix in engaging conversation, a cozy atmosphere with great friends and this is precisely the dining experience you’ll receive when invited into their wonderful Hither Creek Home.

N magazine | 21 Top right: David Berry, Bottom left: Sam Parsons, Bottom right: David and Amber Cantella

Chilled Spring Pea Soup Shooters 1 quart Vegetable Stock 1 pound Petite Peas (fresh or frozen) 6 Fresh Mint Leaves Black Pepper Minced Chives and/or Tomato for Garnish.

Simmer vegetable stock and peas for 4-5 minutes. Turn off heat. Throw in mint leaves and allow to fully cool (about 20 minutes). Season with black pepper. Blend to a smooth puree.

Pour into shot glasses and chill for at least one hour. Just prior to serving, remove from refrigerator and garnish.

Tofu & Truffle Stuffed Mushrooms 16oz. Package Whole Crimini Mushrooms 14oz. Package firm Tofu 3 Slices Hearty Oatmeal Bread 3 large cloves Garlic 1 bunch Parsley 6 oz. Italian Truffle Cheese 1/4 cup dry Red Wine Olive Oil for Cooking

Chilled Spring Pea Soup Shooters Tofu & Truffle Stuffed Mushrooms Manchego with Nantucket Honey Bee “Dark”

Truffle Oil for Finishing Salt & Pepper Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Snap stems out of crimini mushrooms and wipe clean. Steam mushrooms for 4-5 minutes to release moisture (they will shrink!) and set aside.

“Braised” BBQ Tempeh Trio of Smashed Potatoes Corn, Tomato & Avocado Salad with Lime Vinaigrette

To prep, mash tofu in a bowl with a fork, mince garlic, chop parsley and dice slices of bread and all of the cheese into very small cubes. In a frying pan, coat with olive oil and add in garlic and tofu over medium-high heat. Add a pinch of salt & pepper.

Stir while slowly adding in wine and continue cooking for 5 minutes. Add in bread, parsley and cheese and stir until blended.

Country Biscuits

Let cool to touch. With moist hands, form small balls of mixture and over-stuff into pre-steamed mushrooms. Place mushrooms onto an ungreased cookie sheet. Top each mushroom with several drops of

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Fresh Berry Compote

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with Light Honey & Whipped Cream

truffle oil. Place in oven until heated through and sizzling, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with chopped parsley to garnish and be sure to serve warm! Serves 4-6 as an hors d’oeuvre. If you have extra filling, make into little “meatballs” and bake with mushrooms.

Opposite Top right: Spring Pea Soup Shooters, Bottom: Tofu and Truffle Stuffed Mushrooms

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Left top to bottom: David Cantella, Dorothy Stover, Sam Parsons

‘Tertain

From one of the Island's professional bee-honey makers to the

Wines on North Beach Street. Amber has been a vegetarian

inventors of the Nantucket Bottle Opener, it was an eclectic mix

since she was a young child, and so is at her most creative

of Nantucket year-rounders who shared stories of the Island

when she cooks. The fact is that she’s never used meat in her meals and menus.

winter just past, as well as their own entrepreneurial ventures, in an evening of vegetarian delights

“I've been a vegetarian since the

accented by delightful wines from

age of 5.” Amber says, “I cook quite

Amber’s private collection.

a variety of ethnic dishes, particularly Mediterranean food.” She’s happy

“Hither Creek House” was bought

to see that certain vegetarian foods,

by David over 20 years ago and

especially soy-based products, are

has, over that time, been restored

becoming much more common and

in a way that has retained and

accepted, even sought out.

enhanced the charm of this classic Madaket harborside cottage.

“When I was growing up, my mother

Antique surfboards suspend from

spent days making Tofu; it wasn't

the ceiling, 100-year-old native

available in stores,” she remembers.

Nantucket signs adorn the walls.

“Yet, on our recent vacation to

It is a home that invites one back

Disney World, there it was featured

in time to a scene from a beach novel or a memory from a

on several menus.” Amber’s challenge for this evening’s dinner

youthful summer; a palpable feeling of warmth and safe harbor.

was to prepare gourmet vegetarian comfort-food so unique and flavorful that the meat-lovers at her table wouldn’t notice

Amber Cantella is well-known throughout Nantucket for her

the difference.

love of wine. Along with husband David, they own Epernay

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‘Tertain The entrée of the evening was braised tempeh with mashed potatoes and corn. Tempeh is a soy-based Asian tofu-like delicacy that is extremely low in fat, high in protein and calcium and is naturally cholesterol-free. It tastes nothing like tofu but has a nutty and textured flavor. Amber added a Western touch by serving it barbecued with corn and a light avocado and lime salad; a wonderful concoction that was both fresh and hearty. With healthy portions and seconds all around, the secret beauty of Amber’s vegetarian cooking was revealed; that one can be very content yet feel incredibly light and energized after such a feast.

There was even On this March evening the lucky guests included David Berry, the island’s only professional beekeeper and owner of the Nantucket Honey Bee Company, Dorothy Stover, Epernay’s event planner and daughter of Town Clerk, Catherine Stover, and the husband-and-wife team of Rob Morgenstern and Sam Parsons, who own the Nantucket Bottle Opener.

room for fresh berries with light honey and whipped cream, which added a sweet and tangy finish to an extremely

The uniqueness of Amber’s menu is signaled in her appetizers

wholesome,

and hors d’oeuvres. Spring Pea Shooters set the scene with a

inspired and

fresh, healthy dose of organic goodness. Amber accompanied

unique dinner

them with David Berry’s home-made honey and Manchego

out at Hither

cheese to make taste buds work overtime. To create a more

Creek House.

filling plate perfect for a Nantucket winter’s night, Amber used whole crimini mushrooms stuffed with tofu, bread and garlic.

The taste was extraordinary, the caps yeilding a ‘meaty’ texture that was filling yet light. It was the perfect ice-breaking pass-around while guests were getting to know each other over a

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bottle of Domaine Serene 2006.

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27

THE SUMMER HOUSE 2 0 1 0 C O L L A B O R AT I O N with celebrity chef Todd English

CF: Danielle, what is your personal connection to The Summer House?

DB: I do not work at the Summer House; my family owns The Summer House but it’s my husband and my son (Peter Karlson and son Christopher Karlson) who are involved in the day-to-day activities at the property. Peter’s been involved in overseeing the operation for the last 30 years, both the hotel and the restaurant operation. And Christopher, over the last four years or so, has been helping him with that. My relationship is one of consumer; I enjoy going there.

CF: How long have you known Todd English?

DB: My husband and I first met Todd in the early 80’s, when he had his first restaurant, called “Olives,” in a little place in Charlestown, (Massachusetts). We owned condominiums next to him when my husband was in the historic rehab business, and that’s how we got involved in restaurants initially.

CF: The word is out, or getting out, that Todd is going to extend his epicurean hand to the Summer House in 2010. Is that true?

DB: We’re calling it “The Summer House Restaurant by Todd English.”

CF: That answers the question. How did your collaboration with Todd come about?

DB: That came about because I’m Todd’s attorney, and the relationship started from doing Todd’s legal work to where I’m now general counsel to all of his entities. I’m working closely with Todd, as his attorney, on a daily basis, and am intimately involved in all facets of the opening and running of his restaurants. And before last summer season I wanted, in light of the economy, to offer the people on Nantucket a less-expensive dining alternative. And I was very familiar, of course, with his “Figs” Mediterranean concept and entrees, thin-crust pizzas and salads, so I asked him if he would work with our staff at 29 Fair to change our menu there to a “Figs” menu, which we did do, with very many lessexpensive alternatives on the menu than you would get at the other

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downtown-Nantucket atmospheric restaurants.

28

CF: How do you anticipate the menu is going to change under Todd’s guidance, and specifically as compared to last year?

DB: We’ll have more Mediterranean-influenced menu items that have less of a food cost and, therefore, that we can offer at less expensive pricing.

CF: You indicated that Todd has responsibilities at Figs. With those responsibilities, how

The Summer House has been searching for

much time do you feel Todd will be able to

a bit of consistency in the last several years.

devote to The Summer House?

Do you feel that Todd’s arrival will help to

DB: Well, I think Todd will devote the same

enhance that consistency or bring it back in

amount of hands-on time to The Summer

any way?

House that he devotes to each of his other

DB: Well, I feel that the food has been very

restaurants. He has over 25 restaurants;

consistent. I had people coming up to me

they’re all very successful, in which he’s

CF: Tell us about your collaboration with

last year saying ‘If I had one meal before I

affiliated in some capacity. He has a trained,

Todd with respect to The Summer House.

would die it would be the Linguine a la

hands-on, executive chef, so there’ll be a

DB: We did it in town and we were very successful

Vondella, or something,’ so I think that might

significant number of food professionals

and that’s why I wanted to extend it to Sconset.

be some carping, you know, on the part of

within Todd’s organization who will be able to

People can come to The Summer House and

some competitors. I mean the whole idea of

devote a portion of their time to The Summer

still get our more expensive entrees that have

this joining with Todd, the focus on it, is to offer

House. He will be doing an opening dinner

been popular for the last 30 years that we’ve had

more competitive pricing so that people on

during the Wine Festival, which is when

at the restaurant, but there are going to be a lot of

Nantucket can experience The Summer House

we’re going to open, and Todd will be cook-

new and exciting alternatives at less expensive prices.

without having to pay a very expensive check.

ing himself.

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CF: There are some who would suggest that

29 29

CF: Given the Island’s abiding concern for avoiding what you might call ‘national chains’ or ‘brands,’ with Todd’s joining his brand to the Summer House, how do you think that’s going to be received in the community?

DB: I would say that the uniqueness of Todd’s brand is that each and every one of the restaurants that he’s involved with is completely different. They have different names; we just opened a “Todd English Pub” in city center in Las Vegas that is a completely different food concept. His “Juliet” restaurant and club in New York is Persian food, so there is no uniformity in the Todd English Enterprises.

CF: There’s no question that he’s employed a very aggressive expansion of his brand, as you just described, and there’s been some recent press regarding the challenges that he’s faced in that regard.

Do you think that would have any effect on what he will be doing out here on Nantucket this summer?

DB: No. In fact, right now I would say that Todd English Enterprises is running at a very optimum level, and we’ve worked hard to discontinue

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relationships with people who are not lucrative, and to concentrate on the

30

very lucrative situations he’s involved in, in other places. I oversee that effort, and I can only tell you that we’re having a great year.

CF: And will your dinner guests see Todd on a regular basis?

DB: Yes, Todd will be there on a regular basis.

He’ll be in attendance at The Summer House as much, and probably more, than he is at some of his other restaurants because of the fact that we have a short season.

CF: Will the pool area be a part of Todd’s world?

DB: Yes, we will be continuing to do what we’ve always done at the pool but we do have ideas for the pool that will change it a bit.

We will be offering lounge seating as well as table service, and we will be offering the concept of the ‘Sunday party’ that has been very popular in New York and South Beach, where people come to spend the day and have their own little seating arrangement, buying champagne by the bottle, and are welcome to spend the day at the facility.

N magazine | 31

Bill and Louise Hourihan — 56 Union 10th Anniversary

Peter and Wendy Janelle — 56 Union 10th Anniversary

Photo by Fifi

Photo by Fifi

Cheryl Fudge & Hays Westbrook — Festival of Trees

David Daniels — Festival of Trees Photo by Gene Mahon

Photo by Gene Mahon

Barbara Gookin & Dan Gookin — Festival of Trees Photo by Gene Mahon

Leslie Linsley & Jon Aaron — Festival of Trees Photo by Gene Mahon

Katie Trinkle Legge & Annye Camara — Festival of Trees Photo by Gene Mahon

Photo by Gene Mahon

Kathy Tipper, Donna Hamel, Judy Rushmore, Harry Tipper — Festival of Trees Photo by Gene Mahon

Linda & Bill Steelman — Festival of Trees Photo by Gene Mahon

N magazine |

Tammy King, Amy Hinson — Festival of Trees

Michael O'Mara, Sarah McLane, Michael Peacock — Festival of Trees Photo by Gene Mahon

Bart Cosgrove, Lucille Jordan, Thom Koon, Diane Asche — Festival of Wreaths Photo by Gene Mahon

32

Scott Corry and Jen Whitlock — 56 Union 10th Anniversary

Spelling Bee Winners — Photo by Nathan Coe

Photo by Fifi

Joan Pearce & Kim Corkran — Festival of Trees Georgia McDonald & Fifi Greenberg — Festival of Trees

Photo by Gene Mahon

Photo by Gene Mahon

Jim Lowe, Malcolm MacNab, Tricia Lowe — Festival of Trees Photo by Gene Mahon Janet Sherlund, Bettina & Eric Landt — Festival of Tree Photo by Gene Mahons

Robin & EJ Harvey — Festival of Trees Photo by Gene Mahon

Stan Harvey, Lisa Lawler, Craig Hawkins, Bruce Lawler — Festival of Trees Photo by Gene Mahon

Walt Spokowski, Bill Tramposch — Festival of Trees

John Gonella & mom Bea Gonella — Festival of Wreaths

Photo by Gene Mahon

Photo by Gene Mahon

Margot Hartmann & Macy Smith — Festival of Wreaths Photo by Gene Mahon

Lisa McCandless & Lou Arsenault — Festival of Wreaths Photo by Gene Mahon

Amanda Congdon, Lucy Hehir, Jeanne & TIm McClure — Photo by Gene Mahon Lighthouse School Hoedown

Christine & Karl Smith, Sarah Leah Chase — Lighthouse School Hoedown Photo by Gene Mahon

Cary Hazlegrove, Mary Beth Bradley — Lighthouse School Hoedown Photo by Gene Mahon Paula Driscoll, Kathleen Psaradelis, Sarah Gillespie, Keri Kalman — Ms. MantucketPhoto by Kristina Tejada

Bill Liddle & Amanda Toshe — New School Harvest Bash Photo by Gene Mahon

Photo by Gene Mahon

Kevin Molar, Bob Thompson, Nic Duarte, Dick Beckwith — Ms. Mantucket Photo by Kristina Tejada

Michael Ruby & Robin Manning — New School Harvest Bash Photo by Kristina Tejada

TJ Lachuisa, Laura Moore, Marty & Lance Kelly — New School Harvest Bash Photo by Gene Mahon

N magazine |

Marge & Homer Simpson — New School Harvest Bash

Rebecca Jusko, Hillary Anapol, winner Alison Kerr, Miki Lovett, Karin Sheppard — Margaretta Nettles Award Photo by Gene Mahon

34

Billy & Jesse Voss — Haiti Benefit Photo by Gene Mahon

Bobbette Reid — Haiti Benefit Photo by Gene Mahon

Susan Handy — Haiti Benefit Photo by Gene Mahon

Janis Carreiro, Barbara Kelleher, Lauren Roncetti — Lighthouse School Hoedown Photo by Gene Mahon Christina Ciarmataro, Andy, Nina Piccolla, Margie Malone — Ms. Mantucket Photo by Kristina Tejada

Jay Russo, Joe Townsend & Chester Barrett — Ms. Mantucket Photo by Kristina Tejada

Kim Barkow rides the bull — Lighthouse School Hoedown Photo by Gene Mahon

Kim and Bill Puder — Ms. Mantucket Photo by Kristina Tejada

Ed Gillum & Sara Horne — New School Harvest Bash Photo by Gene Mahon

Sally Kay Bates & Brooks Hall — New School Harvest Bash Photo by Gene Mahon

Megan McCuntcheon & Trish Collette — Petticoat Row at Cambridge St. Photo by Gene Mahon

Susan Beaumont, Karen Borchert, Linda McDonough — UnValentine Party at Box Photo by Gene Mahon

Becky Becker & Jessica Gage — Petticoat Row at Cambridge St. Photo by Gene Mahon

Noel Berry & Paul Bruno — Scallopers’ Ball

Jeremy Slavitz, Julie Reinemo, Diane Cabral — NHA History Quiz Photo by Gene Mahon

Photo by Gene Mahon

Burt & Gail Johnson — Scallopers’ Ball Photo by Gene Mahon

Deb & Bobby DeCosta — Scallopers’ Ball Photo by Gene Mahon

Jack Bulger & Susie Kraft — Turkey Plunge Photo by Gene Mahon

Photo by Gene Mahon

Barbara Jenkins, Connie Mundy Shaw —UnValentine Party at Box Photo by Gene Mahon

Pam Diem & Audrey Wagner — UnValentine Party at Box Photo by Gene Mahon

Eithne Yelle and daughter Sinead — Turkey Plunge Photo by Gene Mahon

N magazine |

Audrey Sterk & Clay Twombly — UnValentine Party at Box Photo by Gene Mahon

Jean Baker — Turkey Plunge

Andrew Vorce, Michael Kopko, Allen Reinhard — NHA History Quiz Photo by Gene Mahon

Erin Calhoun & Kevin Flynn — UnValentine Party at Box Photo by Gene Mahon

36

Jeanne Hicks, Kate Bayer, Nicole Bousquet Worden — Petticoat Row at Cambridge St. Photo by Gene Mahon

Winners Steve Sheppard, James Grieder, Harvey Young — NHA History Quiz Photo by Gene Mahon

Dick Burns, Cristina Macchavelli Blank, Rick Kotalac — Scallopers’ Ball Photo by Gene Mahon Susan Carey, Wendy Schmidt, Patty Roggeveen — Scallopers’ Ball Photo by Gene Mahon

Michelle Starr, Bruce & Jeanne Miller — Scallopers’ Ball

Rhoda Weinman & Thea Kaizer — Scallopers’ Ball Photo by Gene Mahon

Photo by Gene Mahon

Rob Benchley & Peter Brace — Scallopers’ Ball Photo by Gene Mahon

Move your mouse to click on Nantucketmagazine.net & check out our Virtual magazine from anywhere, anytime!

Mark Donato, Judi & Greg Hill, Beth English — Turkey Plunge Photo by Gene Mahon

The Plunge! — Turkey Plunge Photo by Gene Mahon

John & Julie Jordan — UnValentine Party at Box Photo by Gene Mahon

“The sun, with all those planets revolving around it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else in the universe to do” - Galileo

A Tale of Two Festivals Written by David Silva Images by Nathan Coe

The rain is falling as I arrive in Beaune

well known in the US than in Europe.

downtown Nantucket. It’s not difficult to

and I remember something I heard once:

The twinning of cities dates back to

imagine that the vineyards surrounding

that the sense of smell holds our oldest

836AD but it was after World War II that

Beaune are like the waters that wrap

memories. I am on foot as I enter the historic

this practice was rekindled. European

themselves around our island, and it is

center of this village in the heart of the

nations reached out to their former

these amazing, rolling vineyards that

Burgundy region of France. I breathe in,

adversaries as an act of peace and

have brought me here.

and the aroma of this town is familiar.

reconciliation. The twinning of

It’s not unlike returning to Nantucket

Nantucket and Beaune is more recent

I stumble outside into the morning light

after being away a long time; that salty

history. It was 2005, following the era of

of this perfect spring day and there in

scent of sand and water lets me know

Freedom Fries, and Denis reached out to

the courtyard is my old friend Alex

I am home. Here, too, it is the scent of

the mayor of Beaune to organize the

Gambal. I first met Alex in 1997 at the

the earth, what the French call “terroir”,

twinning of the two towns.

first Nantucket Wine Festival. He had

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that reminds me of the past. Perhaps a

38

just begun Maison Alex Gambal, which

past life recalled through the hypnosis

There are many similarities between

today produces 60,000 bottles. He knows

of the senses or maybe the jet lag is

Beaune and Nantucket beyond the love

I am here for the celebration of “Les

catching up to me; at home it is 5am.

affair Nantucket restaurants enjoy with

Grand Jours” the “Great Days,” a wine

Burgundy wines. Both draw upon a past

festival dedicated to wine importers and

Next morning I wake up in Denis and

of prestige: Nantucket an economic

restaurateurs like myself and we plan to

Susan Toner’s home; they are back on

engine in the New World during its

meet later that day at one of the many

Nantucket planning the 14th annual

whaling heyday and Beaune the capital

tastings. I am excited to see what I will

Nantucket Wine Festival. It was Denis, the

of political power when the Dukes of

discover and bring back to my brother

President of the Festival, whose inspiration

Burgundy ruled from Flanders to the

Geoffrey, my partner in business, and to

it was to twin Nantucket and Beaune.

Mediterranean. Both protect that past as

the friends of our restaurant at Galley

The concept of the “jumelage” from the

part of their cultures today and the

Beach. But first things first: coffee and

French word “jumeler” or "to twin" is less

cobbled streets of Beaune call to mind

croissant.

Count Philippe Senard

N magazine | 39

Alex Gambal

My opening appointment is with Jean-Marie Fourrier, the wine

real estate to follow his dream of making wine in Burgundy and

maker of Domaine Fourrier in Gevrey-Chambertin who, like

after attending the viticulture school for adults in Beaune cre-

me, operates a family business. To

ated Maison Alex Gambal. Tasting his

get there from Beaune I take the

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2008, I am

Route des Grands Crus that crosses

again struck by the fact that even in a

through some of the best pinot noir

difficult year passionate men can make

vineyards in the world. I pass

good wine. I mention to Alex how nice

through Nuits-Saint-Georges,

it is to be able to sample all of these

Vougeot and Chambolle-Musigny

Grand Crus and he says. “Nantucket

before arriving in Gevrey-

may drink more Grand Cru wine from

Chambertin and Domaine Fourrier.

Burgundy per capita than anywhere

It is a rare March day with the sun

else in the US.”

shining, and Jean-Marie suggests we taste his 2008s outside at the foot of

It is the next day and finally lunch at

the vineyard. “The 2008 vintage was

Caves Madeleine, a restaurant that is

difficult, it was a year that you gain

also a wine retail store, and very popular.

five years experience in” Jean-Marie

I sit down at a long communal table

explains. “At first I hated the wine

and order a basic glass of white,

and would wake up in the middle of the night asking my wife, ‘How can we sell this wine?’ But she told me

Bourgogne-Chardonnay Les Perrières Patrick Bize

2006 by P. Bize. The wine-savvy proprietor, Laurent, pours me a taste and waits for

‘patience’ and she was right.” We taste the 2008 Gevrey-

my approval. I nod my head enthusiastically as a wry smile

Chambertin 1er cru Clos Saint Jacques and though it is still

comes over his face. “This man next to you is Patrick Bize; it is

very young, the potential for another good Gevrey from Fourrier is in the glass. Jean-Marie senses my surprise and describes the vintage by saying.

“The pregnancy was difficult, the birth painful, the child challenging, but finally the child begins to grow up and we have him off to school successfully.” As I leave this idyllic spot heading back to Vougeot, another comment of JeanMarie comes to mind. “Though the work is difficult I am lucky to be working by passion more than necessity.”

Driving south towards Beaune I arrive at Château du Clos de Vougeot, once a Cistercian monastery, built in the 12th century. Alex is at this Grands Jours event with about 50 other producers pouring their Grand Crus. Alex’s story is also one of passion. He left the world of

N magazine | 41

Nantucket have this experience in common: a total stranger meets you at a restaurant and soon it is as if you are old friends.

Our final visit will be with Count Philippe Senard in Aloxe-Corton. This family was appointed Papal Counts in the 17th century. Philippe is very downto-earth as he shows us to a little table in his kitchen overlooking the vineyards.

He opens a 2007 Corton Bressandes Grand Cru followed by a 2003 and, his wine” Patrick, who is sitting to my

finally a

right on a long bench smiles and says

2002 and we

“Do you like?” Of course the answer

are all well-

is “Yes!” After showing off pictures of

sated as

children, an activity as common in

Philippe begins to reminisce about

France as it is in the US, I am invited

Nantucket. He likes the familiar feel of

back to their house. Beaune and

the cobblestone streets but most of all

David with Denis Toner

he loves the people. “Everyone is so relaxed and it’s so easy to meet people that total strangers can quickly become good friends, it’s like home.” It is in these last moments, around the kitchen table, in this tiny town in France that I realize that home is less about place than it is about a shared experience. Perhaps the twinning of Beaune and Nantucket was not just the inspired desire of like minds but also an inevitability of fate.

HAND - HOOKED RUGS • HOME ACCESSORIES • DINNERWARE • TABLETOP • GIFTS

CLAIRE MURRAY

®

NANTUCKET • 16 FEDERAL STREET • 508-228-1913 www.clairemurray.com

N magazine |

Celebrate Spring in full bloom, at our brand new location!

43

N‘

S t yl e

by

Kate

Coe

Here comes the sun!

Bikini by Eres Paris available at Having Butter Fingers can be a good thing.

Vegan and Formaldehyde, Toluene, and DBP free Nail Lacquers by Butter London available at Beauty by the Sea 29 Centre Street . (508) 228-1771

| N magazine

Be fashionably on time.

Glycine Lagunare watch at Trinity Collection 50 Main Street . (508) 228-7557

44

They’ll call you mellow yellow.

Take a leisurely ride on the Schwinn Jenny Beach Cruiser.

Island Bike Co. 25 Old South Road . (508) 228-4070

Erica Wilson 25 Main Street . (508) 228-9881

April Showers…

Pick up a pair of these Classic Hunter Rain Boots at a Nantucket classic – The Nobby Shop 17 Main Street . (508) 228-1030

Be linked into Spring.

Citrine flower cufflinks by Seaman Schepps. Available at Seaman Schepps 47 Main Street . (508) 325-5806

You’ll be hitting it like the Golden Bear.

Nike Sasquatch driver available at Miacomet Golf Club Pro Shop 12 W. Miacomet Rd . (508) 325-0333

…Bring May Flowers Beautiful custom arrangements available at Flowers on Chestnut 1 Chestnut Street . (508) 228-6007

What’s yellow on the inside and “green” all around? Mini ‘s first Electric Model, the Mini E. Currently in Field Trials, visit mini.com to learn more about it.

Don’t fight the law-follow it in style.

Eley Kishimoto for Ruby Paris Pavillon Helmet available at boutiqueruby.com

Everybody go paddle, paddle ACK. Available at www.jimmylewis.com or for rentals,lessons and tours contact Nantucket Surfari (508) 228-1235

Buzz around town on the Vespa LX 50. Available at Herb Chambers Vespa of Boston 22 Brighton Avenue Allston, MA (617) 254-1601

Sunshine.

Little Miss e at cker availabl Blouse by Tu Legends 228-7818 eet . (508) 12 Main Str

” W O L L E SAY “Y

You’ll be walking on sunshine in these satin and cork sandals by Stella McCartney. Available at Gypsy 20 Federal Street . (508) 228-4404

Those nasty water rings will ‘Bee’ a thing of the past. John Derian decoupage coasters (sets of 4) available at Trillium 15 Washington Street . (508) 228-4450 or visit www.johnderian.com

!

G N I R P S O T

Perfect for Sunset Cocktails on the beach.

Veuve Cliquot available at Current Vintage Nantucket 4 Easy Street . (508) 228-5073 We really wish they passed these out at the bank.

“Lemon Lolly” by Robert W. Stark III. Visit http://robertwarbrickstark.com or visit the gallery at 5 Old North Wharf . (508) 228-3809

N magazine |

Another way to enjoy Veuve and sunsets – The Galley Beach is hosting a dinner on Friday May 21st to celebrate 200 years of Veuve Cliquot. Visit www.nantucketwinefestival.com to get more information on this and many other great events happening during the 14th Annual Nantucket Wine Festival, May 19-23.

45

Written and photographed by Terry Pommett

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in

46

One of the most rarified events of the Nantucket Wine Festival is the “Great Wines in Great Houses” program, where wine-makers pour vertical tastings and often present rare bottles from some of the world’s great vineyards. These events feature foods artfully paired with specific wines to a small gathering of fortunate guests.

One of the most colorful and well-known celebrity chefs to participate in the wine festival this year is Boston’s own Lydia Shire, chef/owner of Locke-Ober, Scampo and Blue Sky in York Beach, Maine. Shire has been a culinary icon in America for more than four decades. She got her first chef responsibility at Maison Robert in Boston, where she became good friends with

IN CREATING MY BUTTERS, I HAVE TRIED TO ELIMINATE AS MUCH OF YOUR “PREP” WORK AS POSSIBLE TOWARDS THE SUCCESS OF YOUR COOKING.

CRANBERRY SUZETTE TARRAGON TREAT HERBAL GARLIC DILL DELIGHT Spread on grilled meat, poultry, seafood, vegetables or fruit. Add to egg dishes, soups, pasta or in sauces after deglazing your pan.

Available at: Bartlett’s Farm, Nantucket Seafoods, Sayle’s Seafood, The Sconset Market

------

Goldweitz’ home

Joyce and Mark Goldweitz

Julia Child, a frequent diner and the biggest influence on her cuisine. “Julia called me just before she died and asked if

Questions/Suggestions: Inez Hutton 508-228-1776 www.nantucketbuttercompany.com

All Organic

I would go to London with her on the QE2 to eat oysters at Harrods and drink Sancerre. What do you say to Julia Child?

She lived life right up to the end.”

Shire has made two trips to Nantucket for the Wine Festival, most recently in 2009, where she cooked at the 1823 Starbuckbuilt home of Mark and Joyce Goldweitz. Shire and Joyce Goldweitz have been friends for 25 years. They also have an investor relationship in Locke-Obers. The Goldweitz connection is not Coffin, was born on Nantucket and I’m a distant relative of

N magazine |

Shires only tie to the island, however. “My grandfather, Rufus

47

Chef Tim Quinn

Mark Goldweitz and Lydia Shire

Maria Mitchell. I still have some of her

kitchen can be run. While there was

to divulge the process behind her creation.

silverware.” For Shire’s festival dinner,

plenty of good-natured banter going on,

“I cook the lobsters in the shell for 3

Goldweitz teamed with Jim Finkle, a

especially between mother and son,

minutes, basically undercooked, then

private wine collector and connoisseur. The

the scene was one of mild-mannered

shoot them in water, take the meat out

selections were Maison Louis Jadot Le

expediency. Says Shire, “The one way

and lay it on a cookie sheet. Reduce a

Montrachet 2001, an imperial (eight bottles)

I’ve always taught cooks is by using the

bottle of dessert wine of sauterne and

of 1998 Chateau Haut Brion, 1999 Brunello

phrase, ‘If we do it like this, it will come

whisk in whole butter, then pour it over

di Montalcino Tenementi Angelini ‘Val di

out like that.’ If I said, ‘Do it like that’, it

the lobster and leave for a couple of

Suga’ with Chateau de Malle Sauterne 2005

could be embarrassing or confrontational.

hours. Barely heat it up and it will be

served with dessert. Shire explains, “I

sweet, tender and buttery, very

was told what wines they wanted to serve

uncomplicated. I make a lobster sauce

and then I made food that fit the wine. I

with the reduction of the lobster bodies.

created the menu especially for that

In the bottom of the soufflé dish I add

night.”

the sauce, parmesan cheese, crab meat with the tangerine soufflé on top.

Accompanying Shire on her Nantucket

Garnish for the whole dish was tangerine

return was her son, Alex Pineda, a budding

gremolada. It consists on finely chopped

chef who has been cooking since seven

parsley, a slight bit of raw garlic, rind of

years of age and who has worked behind

tangerine and lemon, mixed together

the line at all of his mother’s establishments.

and sprinkled over everything.”

“My first job was at Biba where I created my first three dishes when I was ten.

Assisting Shire and her son in the

I learn the most when I cook with her.

kitchen was Tim Quinn, executive chef

She introduced me to great French food

at Old Sturbridge Village, and Judy

on my first trip to France when I was

McKenna, pastry chef extraordinaire.

nine. Every night I ordered foie gras and

“The result was a hit,” Shire smiles,

epoisses cheese, my favorites. Mom

Lydia Shire

always pushes me to try new things and

I thought the gold leaf would be festive.

take in as much culinary schooling as I

I try hard to make it a team effort. I’m

It’s nothing more than what people have

can while I’m young. After culinary

not aggressive. Have I ever screamed?

in their mouths, so it’s edible.”

school, I want to

Absolutely, but not often.”

go to Le Cordon Bleu and then study in

| N magazine

Italy before I work again in the states”

48

“I like to gussy things up a little.

For the privileged few, Shire once again The centerpiece of the evening was the

lived up to her goal in cooking. Shire

main course, butter poached lobster with

states, “My style might be a bit ballsy,

Watching Shire at work is a demonstration

gold leaf and puffed tangerine soufflé. Shire,

but I just want my food to be excellent.”

on how civilized and artful a gourmet

who has yet to write a cookbook, was happy

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N magazine |

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49

N Mag: And what was it about Nantucket that drew you to the island?

BR: Just how special it was as a place. You can live in Boston, which is not that far away, but you go to Nantucket and it’s like being somewhere totally different, and a weekend’s vacation felt like a week’s vacation, which is very, very hard to do.

N Mag: You retired from Fidelity after twenty-five years and took a year off. You then took over the helm of Putnam, one of the nation’s most troubled mutual funds during what is arguably the most difficult financial market in a generation. What on Courtesy of FayFoto/Boston

earth were you thinking?

BR: I left Fidelity at the time because I’d been there 23-plus

. . .

. . .

years and had gotten as far as I could get and I wanted to take some time off and reassess what I wanted to do for the rest of my career. Putnam was a company that I’ve known

Bob Reynolds

for over two decades. I knew the issues they faced, which

President and CFO of Putnam Investments, one of the nation’s oldest mutual funds.

I thought were very fixable.

Bob and his family live in the Boston area and have been summer residents on Nantucket for the past fifteen years.

BR: I couldn’t be happier. During the year off, many things

N Mag: Looking back, are you happy with what you did? were presented to me and none of them felt quite right. The Putnam one felt right because it played on all those skills that I’d picked up from being in the business for almost 30 years and certainly from having run Fidelity from 2000-2007.

| N magazine

I thought by getting together the right people, and changing

50

the whole compensation system for

America is all about. So I feel very, very

that’s done, I think you’ll see people

Putnam, we had a great chance to really

confident that we will maintain our

starting to hire more and make capital

build something special.

position as a dominant economic force.

improvements in their business.

N Mag: Barron’s recently recognized

N Mag: Do you think there are challenges

N Mag: What do you say to the college

Putnam for its performance which is a real

on our plate?

graduate who is unable to find work as

testimony to the fact that you have had a

BR: Yes. We have to get our spending

they get out of college into the job market?

major impact in a short period of time.

house in order. A lot of it has to do with

BR: I graduated from college in 1974 which

Can you articulate what makes your

entitlement programs, which, something

was a big down period due to real estate

approach to business so effective?

like Social Security is a very fixable

back then but there were a lot of challenges

BR: It comes down to making sure you

program, but it takes a lot of political

that the country faced. I think the key is to

have the right people. I think when you

will. The health care issue as it relates

be persistent, talk to as many people as

go into a new situation, you need to

to cost and its effect on this country

appropriate and just network. A lot of

spend a short period of time learning the

also hasn’t been addressed. But also

times the first job is not the perfect job, but

strengths of that organization and the

there are opportunities. Corporate

everyone has to start somewhere and the

weaknesses and you clear the path for

America has never been in better shape

average American stays in their first job

the strengths and really go attack the

than it is today. We look for 2011 for

less than two years.

weaknesses. That’s why we hired eight

U.S. corporations to have record

new fund managers on the equity side.

earnings—the best they’ve ever had.

N Mag: If you were to give President

We left those who were doing a great job,

And that has to do with managing the

Obama a single piece of economic advice,

and changed the compensation for the

balance sheet. They have very little

what would it be?

whole firm to make it totally merit-based,

leverage and they’re in great positions

BR: Focus. The agenda is much too

a true meritocracy.

to really be successful.

broad. Focus on one or two things, and the economy should be on top of the list.

N Mag: Let’s talk about the economy for a

N Mag: When you look on a micro level,

minute. If America were a company, would

Nantucket, as do many parts of the

N Mag: And if you were to give our

you buy it?

country, has unacceptably high

readers a single piece of economic advice,

BR: Yes, I would. Again, I think knowing

unemployment. What do you see on

what would it be?

what its strengths and weaknesses

the horizon that’s going to create enough

BR: Be optimistic. We live in a great

are is important, but I would definitely

job growth to reverse this situation?

country. American businesses are doing

buy America.

BR: Historically, in the last seven recessions,

well. Yes, we have challenges but we’ve

unemployment has always lagged

always had challenges and we’ve always

N Mag: Twenty years from now, where

behind a turnaround in the economy,

made it through—always in better shape

do you see this country in the world’s

so that’s to be expected. I do think that

than when we went in and I think this

economic pecking order?

the businesses, as well as people, depend

time will be the same.

BR: I think we’ll still be at the top. We

upon certainty of the environment to

have so much going for us in intellectual

make business decisions and since the

N Mag: Thank you for your time and

capital and in technology. A lot of what

downturn, there hasn’t been the type of

your sage advice.

the future is going to be about is what

certainty that you’d like to see. Once

epicurean

: what’s the dish?

what’s the

dish?

Written by Gene Mahon

The restaurant scene has for the past few years been very fluid, with new restaurants opening and old favorites closing each year. The field has at least for now stabilized, with no new places nor new owners. We surveyed restaurant owners to find out what’s new this year, and this is what we found.

The field has at least for now stabilized, with no new places nor new owners.

Thursday in the dining room and all week at the bar. Come summer, Seasons will feature produce grown exclusively for the restaurant from small local farmers.

| N magazine

American Seasons

52

The wines-by-the-glass list has been significantly enlarged, with many lower-

With newly updated wall murals by

and higher-priced selections. American

Kevin Paulson, American Seasons spring

Seasons chef and co-owner Michael

menu offers Nantucket raised lamb and

LaScala was once again nominated for

new items on their small plate (lower

the James Beard Award for Best Chef-

priced) menu, available Sunday through

Northeast in March, 2010.

The Chanticleer Lunch and Dinner 508.257.4499

The wines-bythe-glass list has been significantly enlarged, with many lowerand higher-priced selections.

epicurean

what’s the dish? :

Boarding House

Oran Mor

Don’t forget the Nantucket Wine Festival

The Boarding House menu will include

At Oran Mor, dinner prices are lower this

many to be the best in the country. This

dishes inspired by Chef de Cuisine Erin

year with an all-new small-plate bar

year the Festival celebrates and honors

Zircher’s trip to Sicily this winter. The

menu. Amanda DiLorenso is the full

Ming Tsai as Luminary of the Year. Ming

bartending team of Tom Heiser, Tom

time bartender, with Heather Freeman

is the James Beard Award-winning

Crawford, and Bill Farley is back for

filling in on Amanda's days off. In the

chef/owner of Blue Ginger in Wellesley, MA,

another season.

restaurant, you'll notice that the tablecloths

and Emmy-nominated for his television

have been removed to show off the

show Simply Ming. Ming will receive the

Vermont beechwood tables.

award, the Gifford Cup, at the Auction

Corazon del Mar Corazon del Mar will open for the season,

from May 19-23, 2010, considered by

Dinner on Saturday, May 22.

quite appropriately, with their Cinco de

The Pearl

Mayo party. The menu will include new

The Pearl opens for a short stint on

items inspired by the city markets, street

Daffodil Weekend, then closes until May

vendors, and restaurants of Guadalajara

19 when it opens for the season. Liam

and Tequila, where owners Seth and

Mackey has returned as the chef de cuisine.

Angela Raynor and manager Jane Stoddard travelled this winter. Holly Finigan, at LoLa 41 last season, will now

Topper’s

be the head bartender, with Kristen

Topper’s at The Wauwinet will open on

Kellogg spelling Holly a few nights a

Tuesday, May 18. For the first time, the

week. Corazon will be open for lunch,

Topper’s a la carte breakfast will available

dinner, and also take-out through the

to all, not only to hotel guests. New too

side (old Dough Hook) door.

will be casual deck dining with live

by Todd English

music, a new menu, and access to the

Dune

lawn for drinks and sunsets.

Dune owner Michael Getter, previously the chef/owner at American Seasons, is now firmly ensconced in the kitchen as Executive Chef. The menu changes every 6 to 8 weeks, always with nightly specials.

Look for the patio bar opening on Memorial Day Weekend. Anna Worgess, formerly at Fifty-Six Union, will share bartending responsibilities with Amanda

17 Ocean Avenue Siasconset Jordan V ine yard W ine Dinner with Chef Todd English Sat urday, May 22, 7:30pm

Reservations: 508-257-9976 www.thesummerhouse.com

N magazine |

Morgan. Dune is now open year-round.

For the first time, the Topper’s a la carte breakfast will available to all, not only to hotel guests.

53

................................... ................................... ...................................

CONFESSIONS OF A

TAXI

NANTUCKET

DRIVER

three kids, one baby, two dogs and a dozen or so suitcases. The dad systematically removed the bags while the mom was talking on her cell phone trying to rally energized kids into the house. With a screaming baby in his arms, the father paid the fare and I was free to drive away from the circus. In my own driving world now, I was singing along to some Tom

"Yes hi, I'm afraid I left my three-year-old in the back of your cab?"

Petty song on the radio. "Peek-a-boo!" And a voice screeched out in the back seat.

I jumped a foot off the seat, I swear. The three-year-old boy had decided to play hide and seek and didn't realize that taxicabs are "Hey this is the Chef John calling, we need a

there was no use trying to convince my

off-limits to such games! I returned the child

cab right away, as soon as possible please!".

passenger's buddies to come along for the

and the grateful parents gave me some extra

I happened to be sitting at the car ferry and

ride. I thought the man was rather quiet on

cash for my troubles.

was available to take the call. "On my way,

the trip until I realized he had completely

see you in two minutes" I replied. Five minutes

passed out, his money scattered all over the

Joe* was a regular passenger of mine

later I manage to break through the heavy

cab. "Sir, we are here!" No response. I tried

I’m driving him home when we see something

August boat traffic. Two guys in chef coats

yelling louder, shaking his arm. All I got was

white and red running in circles in the road.

run out, one of them is helped into the cab,

a grunt. This situation is rarely a problem

We pull over and Joe looks at me and says

the other gives me fifty bucks and says:

for my co-workers, but I am one third

"Feel like saving a bird?"

"Emergency room please!"

this guy's size and weight. I didn't have a choice though, he needed to get out and I

I look back and see that the cook has severed two fingers and is bleeding terribly into a kitchen rag. We were at the hospital in less than ten minutes. If it’s not a life-threatening situation, a ride in the ‘cabulance’ is always cheaper than the ambulance.

needed to move on. Rolling his body toward the door I got him in a half-standing/halfleaning position. It was useless though, he slid sideways, I tried to keep him from falling and being crushed under his beer gut. It took about

The seagull starts darting all over the road.

Cars driving by start honking at us, pointing and laughing. "What? You guys can't afford a turkey this year?" After a bit of a struggle I’m glad to say we carefully cornered the poor thing and drove it to the MSPCA.

10 minutes for me to slide out from under this tank-of-a-passenger. Cursing his friends, I picked up the money for the fare, put the rest in

I don't usually mind picking up drunks.

his pocket and drove off all hot and bothered.

Joe told me that

road to worry about. But sometimes I should

| N magazine

taxi. I remember one night an intoxicated

54

It was during halftime of the Super Bowl and

300+lb male was shoved into my cab with an address written on a cocktail napkin and twenty dollar bills in his front shirt pocket.

have a laugh about that day. Weeks later

As I see it, it’s one less drunk driver on the be more worried about my own safety in the

Joe and I always

People often forget their umbrellas, sunglasses, books and other miscellaneous personal belongings, but on this one occasion, a family left something unthinkable in my cab.

It was your typical crazy hot and humid August afternoon. The family I picked up consisted of

he had called the vet and the bird was a survivor, probably back at the dump telling his ‘gull friends’ the story! *All stories are true but names and places have been changed.

.

N Magazine

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