TRAVEL

When the spirit of the Outback ruled

The sun was like a fireball in an unforgiving Outback sky, but amid the mud and dust, there was also extraordinary resilience and human kindness. JOHN SHARP revisits an interlude from his motorbike trip around Australia long before the roads were filled with caravans.

John Sharp on his Australian motorbike adventure in 1957.

My friend Tirrell Brown and I were enjoying the freedom of motorcycling far from home in way across a landscape devoid of vegetation. Above this performance, ever circling, Australia’s north-west in 1957, but daytime temperatures were quickly increasing. It was burning hot.

The main road was marked on our map and looked the same as any other main road. It was normally a dusty dirt track meandering its way west but had copped a hammering during The Wet.

It had turned into soggy clay, the consistency of wet cement, and low boggy spots had suffered badly as locals ducked their way through and around them.

The result now, was a myriad of tracks going every which way. At times we had no option but to navigate by the sun, and were thankful when we happened on the track again.

Once, we dead-ended at a station windmill and had to back-track for miles.

The wide, open plains were full of surprises. A kangaroo, startled by the noise of our engines, hopped out of nowhere and hurdled over us. A willy willy developed as we watched, sucking dust and debris into its vortex as it wandered every which were wedge tailed eagles, whistling kites and assorted raptors that joined the circus hoping for gifts of food from the wind god. One morning, a pair of emus streaked across our bows, their heads sideways, taking in the strange vision of a couple of slightly mad motorcyclists. Unknowingly, they were on a doomsday course with a barbed wire fence, and within the blink of an eye, the dynamic duo had been transformed into a noisy collection of feather dusters and long, skinny legs wildly kicking the air. Not another soul had approached us in two days, then a vision floated into view, trailing a massive tail of dust. It was a battered Land Rover camper. We slowed to a stop and they pulled in beside us, wound their window down, and we were rewarded by the sight of a smiling young couple. We exchanged G’days, and the girl held up, unbelievably, a bottle of clean water. “How about a nice cold drink?” We were gobsmacked. Imagine having a kerosene refrigerator in a camper!

For weeks we had nothing but artesian water from station bores and windmills. We’d imbibed more salts and minerals than a pharmacy stocks.

On rare clear days, the landscape shimmered from early heat, then mirages appeared in the distance, making the scrubby bush appear to float as if on an ocean. About midday, some substantial trees floated before us, and close by, a corrugated iron shed.

A door opened and a striking young woman appeared with a baby in her arms. A blue heeler stood guard beside her. She reached down and scratched behind his ear. Was this tableau a reality, or had the heat sent us troppo?

We cut our engines and her big smile lifted our travel-weary spirits. Two young children appeared and clung to her skirt. We talked for a short time, and she almost begged us to come inside out the sun.

Laura and her husband Peter owned the massive property we were riding through. The children soon forgot we existed and carried on with their play on the hard dirt floor of their simple home.

To one side were beds made from bush timber with mattresses from feed bags wired in place. A kerosene refrigerator struggled with the heat.

Laura sat at a table of rough-hewn timber, and we made ourselves at home. She was obviously lonely, and her words flowed like a long-dammed torrent.

A Southern Cross windmill was turning over lazily, sending a trickle of water into a high tank supplying the house and horse trough.

As darkness approached, Laura went outside and started the diesel generator. Light flooded from the openings of the building and the air became alive with flying insects. Shortly, we heard the sound of horses approaching and Peter arrived, leading a small team of Aboriginal Battling the bulldust in Cloncurry. stockmen, their sweat-stained clothing caked with dust from the day’s mustering.

The stockmen walked to their camp and we retired inside, where two young Aboriginal girls had prepared a meal of a great slab of steak and boiled vegetables.

Graciously, we were invited to share the food. Above the table, a solitary bulb hung on its wiring from a roof beam, and Peter brought out a bottle of rum. We talked for hours. Suddenly, the diesel noise stopped, and the room became pitch black. The generator had run out of fuel.

It put a blanket over the evening, but was the latest night we’d had since leaving home. We lay our swags on their dirt floor and slept like logs. Peter left early, and we were saying farewell when an Aboriginal Elder came up. He lowered his eyes, and said softly, “Missus. Our people have something for the travellers.”

He handed Tirrell an emu egg, but not an ordinary egg. This was very special, with wonderful renditions of native animal life painstakingly carved through the dark green texture to reveal paler colours beneath.

How could we ever thank someone whose ancestors have been on this land for over 70,000 years for such a precious gift.

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THERE’S something catchy about the phrase, “the Darling River run”, evoking images of quintessential Australia; a beating heart that has given life for millennia and inspired explorers, poets and artists.

The country’s third longest river is fed by many tributaries as it flows 1472km from its source in northern New South Wales to join the mighty Murray.

Add the tributaries that begin in Queensland, and it’s 1767km long, but for the traveller this is the Outback’s most famous waterway, and Australia’s most significant rural countryside.

And if it’s a long-held dream to “do the Darling River run”, then be ready to go this autumn.

After recent rain, the Darling is full to the brim, its 23 river valleys bursting with life and the landscape looking like a sea of green.

“It’s a once in 20 or 30-year experience to see the Outback after the rain it has recorded in recent months,” says Paul Brockhurst of CT Travel.

“Rivers, lakes and dams are full and waterfalls are gushing, so it’s a very special time as it doesn’t happen that often.”

A 15-day luxury coach tour departing April 26, will follow the mighty river for more than 700km then swing across to Broken Hill, Australia’s first National Heritage City.

Along the way, see the artwork on Thallon’s towering grain silos, and the cotton town of Dirranbandi before crossing the border to Lightning Ridge, home of the prized black opal.

Continue down the Darling to WHILE waiting for international and domestic travel to return to normality, it’s a good time to explore what’s on the doorstep.

And if you’ve never been on a small group tour and feel a little apprehensive, try a day tour to see whether this type of travel suits you.

Many travellers return to book numerous tours each year.

From pickups and drop offs to everything in between expectations are a priority.

“This isn’t about scooting through a town on our way to somewhere without stopping to see what’s there,” says Penny Hegarty. “Not only is there much to see and do but the locals are appreciative and welcome us with open arms.”

For example, many museums in small towns have a lot of interest. These include specialised car, tractor and truck museums as well as historic buildings which on previous tours, have brought back memories for many visitors.

Along the way, the countryside is especially beautiful after the recent rain. Travelling by coach gives a great

Brewarrina to see the fish traps, one of the oldest manmade structures on earth, and learn the stories of the 19th century river ports of Bourke and Louth.

Lunch at traditional Outback pub Shindy’s Inn on the banks of the Darling, where artefacts and memorabilia line the walls.

Discover country hospitality with a stay at Trilby Station and visit historic Dunlop Station.

At the unusual opal town of White Cliffs residents live underground – just like the hotel where you’ll stay.

Then “beyond the Darling River, on the edge of the sundown” is Broken Hill and Silverton with its famous gaol. Cobar, steeped in mining heritage, has a mineral belt that is clearly visible.

Return home via Dubbo and Dundullimal Homestead, the Pilliga Pottery and the artesian bore baths of Moree.

“It’s 15 days packed with capturing the spirit of the Darling and its communities,” Mr Brockhurst says. “And autumn is a great time to be going.”

See the full itinerary at cttravel.com.au Explore the wonder of Uluru.

view from panoramic windows.

A trip to Uluru and Alice Springs in June promises to be spectacular. Closer to home, an October tour to Fraser Island will offer the chance to watch the whales at play, drive through the lush rainforest and see the beaches and lagoons.

There are no hidden extras. Tour prices always include flights if applicable, coach, accommodation, most or all meals, entry fees and pickups.

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CT TRAVEL

Coolum Tours & Travel

The Northern Territory has a big lineup for history buffs this month as it commemorates the 80th anniversary of the bombing of Darwin on February 19.

From February 1942 to November 1943, Darwin was the target of more than 64 air raids. Remnants of its military history are still accessible.

The City of Darwin will host the Bombing of Darwin Day Commemorative Service from 9.30am at The Cenotaph. The event is free and open to the public.

On February 18-19, 5.30pm, Arafura Wind Ensemble presents “From Engagement to Peace” at Christ Church Cathedral Civic Park on Smith St. The special event is free and hosted by the City of Darwin.

Special self-guided tours Bombing of Darwin 80th Anniversary tour packages cover Darwin’s main World War II experiences: Royal Flying Doctor Tourist Facility, Darwin Military Museum and Darwin Aviation Museum. The bombing of Darwin mural at Stokes Hill Wharf.

The Bombing of Darwin on February 16. Guests will hear Cruise, a one-hour experience on from an expert historian, attend a Darwin Harbour, goes back in commemorative service for the time to February 19, 1942. The bombing’s anniversary, visit all of tours can be taken on any day Darwin’s military and wartime between February 17 and 21. sites, and have a special night Tickets from $60. time experience at the Darwin

The Australian American Military Museum. Association NT is hosting two Package prices start from USS Pearly Memorial Services on $1899 with four-star February 19 at The Esplanade, at accommodation included. 8.15am and 9.30am. Both are free There will be an ecumenical and open to the public. service at the Adelaide River

Battlefield Tours is holding a War Cemetery and Civil special four-night tour departing Cemetery to pay respects to the 434 military members and 63 civilians killed during the Bombing of Darwin on February 20.

Quarantine Anti-Aircraft Battery Site, 36km from Darwin, is a former command post during World War II and is now the most complete anti-aircraft-gunsite in the area.

Drive for an hour to Batchelor, once an important RAAF base for the Pacific region and departure point for the first bombing missions against the Japanese on Australian soil.

Book a tour and see real-life artefacts at the former 4 Repair and Service Unit at Pell Airstrip.

At Charles Darwin National Park see part of a network of military sites that formed Australia’s front line of defence, and historic ammunition storage bunkers and testing areas built in 1944 and used until the mid1980s. Drive two hours south to Katherine, the southern-most point of Japanese bombing raids in the Territory and home to two Australian Army hospitals where Katherine Museum, housed in a former air terminal, contains detailed wartime displays as well as pioneer memorabilia.

View crater remains at Knott’s Crossing, which was directly bombed in 1942.

Mataranka was also a World War II base for more than 100 military units including the Aboriginal Army Camp, established in late 1943.

On the return trip to Darwin, you’ll spot aircraft along the north-bound side of Stuart Highway.

The Straus Airstrip, a former base for fighter squadrons, is one last surviving and most intact pursuit fighter installations in northern Australia.

Join Penny Hegarty on one of these fabulous tours!

BRISBANE DAY TOUR

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WONDAI GARDEN EXPO

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ROCK & ROLL ON NORFOLK ISLAND FEATURING KRIS KNIGHT Rock &RollBRISBANE DAY TOUR 12th May, 2022 16th - 23rd July, 2022

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Includes: Accommodation where applicable * Coach Travel * Most Meals * Tours * Entry Fees * Pickups * Flights where applicable. Conditions may apply. Informative guided tours where your touring expectations are my priority.