18 minute read
TRAVEL
Outback Queensland – a road trip by design
A series of award-winning architectural projects has turned outback Queensland into an unlikely design destination. PIPPA HURST explores the cultural and heritage trail from Barcaldine through Longreach to Winton.
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The Waltzing Matilda Centre in Winton.
IMAGE: CHRISTOPHER FREDERICK JONES
Striking contemporary architecture is not the first thing that springs to mind when planning a trip to the Queensland Outback, yet a series of tourist attractions has become an unlikely architectural trail that’s making a difference to the economic prosperity of Barcaldine, Longreach and Winton.
From a tiny museum that seems to rise from the earth to a whimsical, pink interior that nods to the Sydney Opera House, each project is worth a visit for the architecture alone.
Beyond aesthetics, however, good design is making a significant contribution to the region’s future.
Architect Michael Lavery is a director of m3architecture, a Brisbane-based practice that has built a strong relationship with Barcaldine, 12 hours north-west of Brisbane.
“‘The Barcaldine Regional Council has demonstrated courage and leadership by investing in design,” he says.
Working in collaboration with Brian Hooper Architect, m3architecture was first commissioned to work on Barcaldine’s Tree of Knowledge, the birthplace of the Australian Labor Party. At the same time, the council had purchased the Globe Hotel, a decrepit pub that was slated for demolition.
‘’While working on the Tree of Knowledge, we saw the potential to encourage passing tourists to spend more time in town,” Michael says. “The architects convinced the council to invest in a master plan and retain the Globe.”
The Council’s leap of faith was rewarded. Seven years later, the reimagined Globe Hotel represented Australia at the 2018 Venice Architecture Biennale.
After being saved from the wrecker’s ball it was reinterpreted as a contemporary visitor centre.
Barcaldine Council estimates there has been at least a 300 per cent increase in visitors stopping in the town since the Tree of Knowledge and The Globe were completed – a welcome boost for the drought-ravaged community.
The projects have received a string of local and national awards for urban design, architecture and heritage.
A lookout designed by m3architecture and Brian Hooper Architect is currently under construction alongside the Globe, offering a connection to surrounding landscape and birdlife, and the master plan includes a future performing arts centre and gallery.
The Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame and Outback Heritage Centre in Longreach was affectionately dubbed the Opera House of the Outback when it opened in 1988, a reference to its distinctive curved form by Feiko Bouman Architect.
The museum, which pays homage to Australia’s bush pioneers, had been in slow decline. Exhibits and amenity no longer met contemporary standards, and with no master plan, 30-plus years of disjointed works had gradually made the entire operation dysfunctional.
The transformative redesign has reinstated the museum as a top-ranking tourist destination. Respecting its original architecture, the design team rethought the museum from the inside out.
Information, ticketing, retail, food and entry to the attractions were united in a light-filled entry hub and connected to new external landscaping.
The architectural team’s contribution went well beyond built form.
“We oversaw funding applications, Australian Age of Dinosaurs Museum commissioned and managed curatorial and exhibition services and filmmakers, and worked with the client and the team to diversify the European, maledominated, narrative of ‘The Stockman’,” Michael says.
Cheeky references to the Opera House and new, technology-rich exhibits have captivated audiences and the museum can now look to a self-funded future.
Another Longreach design drawcard is the Qantas Founders Museum Airpark Roof. Adjacent to the existing Qantas Museum and 1922 heritage hangar, Airpark Roof by Noel Robinson Architects is a dramatic, 8000 sq m floating structure that houses several historic aircraft, including a Boeing 747.
Visitors can explore the aircraft up close from viewing platforms.
The Globe Hotel in Barcaldine was saved from the wrecker’s ball and became a showpiece.
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Some very good reasons to leave home!
The aircraft and soaring roof provide the canvas for “Luminescent Longreach”, a state-of-the-art light show designed by Buchan that explores aviation history. The immersive light and sound experience extends museum visits into the evening and encourages visitors to stay in Longreach overnight.
Last stop Winton, population 945. An hour from Longreach, Winton is a speck on the map of Australia’s vast interior, yet within its boundaries sit two awarded architectural works by national practice COX, which together have helped stabilise the town’s fragile economy.
The relationship began in 2012 with the Australian Age of Dinosaurs Museum, a tiny jewel located 24km south-east of the town and completed pro-bono over several years.
Sitting atop a remote mesa, the museum provides visitors with an insight into one of the world’s most significant and cohesive dinosaur fossil collections, which local farmer-turnedpalaeontologist John Elliot stumbled upon in 1999.
Receiving the State’s top award for public architecture in 2013, it is now one of Winton’s largest employers during the winter months.
Visitation has increased by an average of 18 per cent a year since opening and with new stages of the Dinosaur Museum currently under construction, the benefits to the local economy will continue to grow.
Back in town, COX was engaged to re-design the Waltzing Matilda Centre, which burnt to the ground in 2015. The only museum in the world dedicated to a song, it houses an extensive collection of historical artefacts, memorabilia and collateral related to Banjo Paterson’s iconic 1895 ballad.
Multiple national awards for architecture and interiors are testament to the museum’s design merit.
There is one other regional treasure for the intrepid design tourist. A side trip to Muttaburra – officially Queensland’s geographic centre – reveals Brian Hooper’s Muttaburrasaurus Interpretation Centre, a sculptural
IMAGE: CHRISTOPHER FREDERICK JONES
Tree of Knowledge, Barcaldine. insertion into the landscape that tells the story of a dinosaur fossil found near Muttaburra in 1963.
For Queensland’s Central West, investment in quality design has delivered on the adage that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.
With strategically planned and beautifully executed design across four connected towns, the reward for visitors and locals alike is exponential.
Tourists on the long journey west are treated to a series of rich, engaging experiences that amplify history and culture and leave a lasting impression – 50 per cent of visitors to the Outback return a second time.
“Prior to the Barcaldine master plan strategies and the Tree of Knowledge project being completed, no pubs hired external cooks or chefs for meals. No pub had an international backpacker as a bartender, and none of the businesses in town had done work on their commercial facades for some years,” Michael says.
“Providing even the smallest of communities with the highest quality design bestows respect on people and their stories, and on the places they call home.” FOR the past 15 years Judy Polkinghorne has been making travel dreams come true for women from around Australia and NZ.
The founder of the Queensland owned and operated travel business Girls on Tour, Judy has pioneered women-only travel in Australia.
“If you’re single, widowed, divorced, married or you just don’t have someone to travel with, Girls On Tour is for you,” she says.
“More than 35 per cent of business is return travellers so it’s clear that women love travelling with Girls On Tour.”
And with overseas travel out of our reach, Judy is exploring Australia with tours for 2022 including the Kimberleys, Uluru, Northern Territory National Parks, a day flight over Antarctica and, for the first time, Cape York. “It’s true to say that my clients are really keen to travel again with my 2022 Cape York trip selling out in only 36 hours and 95 per cent of those booking being return clients” Judy said.
Her “On the Trail of Giants” tour next year will follow the dinosaur trail to
VARIETY ADDS DASH TO THE BASH
WHEN Variety Queensland’s Bash was cancelled last year, a shorter hybrid Bash and 4WD adventure event was held in November and was so successful that it has become the Dash.
Over just six days, it is open to more vehicle types and although still aimed at adults, also accommodates family groups with kids.
Both old and new cars, 2-wheel and 4-wheel drives of all makes and models are invited to participate. Even Kombis and off-road camper trailers can join in on the escapade – as long as you’re happy to take the vehicle on dirt and the roads less travelled.
The inaugural Variety Dash for Kids will run from November 8-13, starting in Gladstone, ending in Hervey Bay. Visit varietydashqld.com or call 3907 9300. Winton to visit Lark Quarry and Age of Dinosaurs and then down to the Eromanga Natural History Museum for three nights in Coopers Lodge.
“We will spend a whole day getting our hands dirty on the dig site and another day prepping in the museum, the home of the Australotitan Cooperensis or the ‘Southern Titan’, one of the five largest dinosaurs in the world,” Judy says.
Girls On Tour has escorted clients to more than 60 countries on seven continents and Judy is now pleased to explore the great Southern Land with adventurous and spirited women. Call Judy 0409 057 417, visit girlsontour.com.au or join the Facebook group girlsontouraustralia
BACONFEST KEEPS GETTING ‘PIGGER’
MORE than 15,000 people are expected to bring home the bacon from Kingaroy.
The Kingaroy BaconFest, a celebration of all things pork, will be held from August 20-22 and organisers are expecting a “pigger” than ever turnout from far and wide.
After last year’s virtual event, chief baconeer Kristy Board said BaconFest would be back with renewed energy.
This year’s headliner is celebrity chef, Miguel Maestre, who will cook up a host of demonstrations over the weekend.
“In addition, we’ll have past favourites including the Wine and Swine evening event, Long Table Breakfast, food and local producers’ market, BaconFest Pinup Pageant and Beard of BaconFest competition, a bacon eating competition, and live music,” she said. Visit kingaroybaconfest.com.au
LONGREACH, WINTON & EMERALD Waitlist
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WHERE ELSE BUT CHARLEVILLE – EASTER 2022
ESCAPE the chill and start planning for balmy days in the Northern Territory, where there’s a packed calendar of events coming up in September and October.
It’s the Dry Season, so travellers can expect great weather for exploring the national parks and natural wonders while you’re there.
Here are the calendar dates to put in the diary:
Darwin Street Art Festival Darwin, August 30 –September 10 Launched in 2017, the annual festival sees local and Australian street artists transform Darwin’s streets into an incredible outdoor art gallery. After exploring the numerous street murals, end the day on a high note by grabbing a meal at Mindil Beach Sunset Markets and catching a famous Territory sunset. Red CentreNATS Alice Springs, September 3-5 The ultimate festival of wheels returns to the Red Centre. Over three action-packed days, the festival will showcase the best in street machines, elite show cars, hot rods, classics and exotic vehicles, with an entertainment program, including street cruising and drag racing. 2021 Darwin Lions Beercan Regatta Darwin, September 5 Established in 1974, the annual Darwin Lions Beer Can Regatta is a Top End family favourite and one of the only dry river boat races in the world. With boats constructed of everything from beer cans to plastic bottles and milk cartons, teams race along Mindil Beach into the water and hope their DIY dinghies make it to the finish line. 2021 Katherine Bird Festival Katherine, September 9-12 Set in the heart of Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge, this year’s program will immerse visitors in natural landscapes teeming with unique birdlife, with bird-watching cruises, expert-led tours and family activities. Desert Song Festival Alice Springs, September 10-19 A celebration of cultural diversity and artistic brilliance, the 10-day Desert Song Festival highlights the rich musical traditions of Alice Springs and Central Australia with concerts, workshops and masterclasses. The showcase performance, The Olive Pink Opera, celebrates the life of Aboriginal rights activist and native botanical enthusiast, Olive Pink. Desert Mob Alice Springs, September10-October 24 Now in its 30th anniversary year, Desert Mob brings together Aboriginal art and culture from the remote desert regions and communities of the Northern Territory and around the country. The exhibition spans three galleries and showcases established, mid-career and emerging artists. The Marketplace will run for one-day on September 11, for visitors to purchase paintings, punu, ceramics, Tjanpi weaving, jewellery, textiles, clothing and homewares, and support Aboriginalowned art centres. Hottest 7s Darwin, October 9-10 The Hottest 7s In the World promises to bring a competition filled with world-class rugby 7s action to the Top End as Darwin hosts some of the world’s most high-profile rugby teams. Off the field will be non-stop entertainment with music and food stalls. Mango Madness Festival Darwin, October 24 Packed with family-friendly fun and entertainment, the festival showcases the best of Darwin’s mango-inspired food and drinks, including tasting stalls, a cocktail masterclass from the winning Mango Cup team, Dom’s Bar & Lounge, and mangoeating competition. Kakadu Bird Week Kakadu, September 25-October 2 With more than a third of Australia’s bird species at Kakadu, the UNESCO World Heritage listed park is a bird lover’s paradise. Kakadu Bird Week features a packed itinerary for nature enthusiasts.
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February 2022 Norfolk Island (7 Days) March 2022 O’Reillys Rainforest Retreat (4 Days) Carnarvon Gorge & Wallaroo (7 Days) April / May 2022 Stanthorpe & New England in Autumn (4 Days) OB NSW - The Darling River Run to Broken Hill (15 Days) May / June 2022 Carnarvon Gorge & Wallaroo (7 Days) O’Reillys -Winter Escape (4 Days) July 2022 Western Qld Loop inc Birdsville (11 Days) August 2022 Lightning Ridge (7 Days) September 2022 Nth Qld Savanah Way ( Days) Toowoomba Carnival of Flowers (3 Days) November 2022 Tasmania (14 Days)
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September 6-9, 2021 (4 Day Escape) Fraser Island Whale Watch Tour
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Share/Double $995.00pp / Single $1095.00 October 11 - 14, 2021 (4 Day Escape) Bundaberg – Bargara – Lady Musgrave Isl M 0409 278 971 E tours@cttravel.com.au For more detailed itinerary information on any of these tours, please visit our website:
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One of the many beauty spots of the Carnarvon Gorge National Park. FROM watching whales off the Fraser coast to stopping to smell the roses in Toowoomba, you don’t have to travel far to feel you are on the road to discovery.
Whether it’s a quick getaway for three or four days or a longer seven-day excursion, if you’re ready to get out and about there’s a luxury coach waiting to carry you away.
“A spacious, modern air-conditioned luxury coach is the most comfortable and safest way to get out on our highways and by-ways,” says Paul Brockhurst of CT Travel. “Passengers can sit back and enjoy the views without stress; chat to neighbours and socialise rather than having eyes glued to the road and worrying about where to park.” If your feet are starting to itch, Paul has a range of itineraries coming up to get going. Over seven days from August 26, explore the scenic gem that is the Carnarvon region. After a drive to Roma via Chinchilla, it’s easy cruising around “big sky” country. Retired farmers and graziers lead a tour of the Roma Saleyard, the largest in the southern hemisphere, while another local guide will show off the town. Then it’s off to see Injune before checking in at the Wallaroo Outback Retreat for four nights. It’s the perfect base for day trips with experienced guides to the Carnarvon Gorge National Park, the Carnarvon Ranges and Arcadia Valley Escape, a 17,000acre cattle station.
Boobook Eco Tours local guides lead the way through privately owned and operated coal seam gas fields, showing world class farm and conservation properties to give a real-life insight to how industries coexist with environment.
September is Carnival of the Flowers time in Toowoomba. It’s the longestrunning event of its kind in Australia and a cultural feast of local food and produce, entertainment and all things spring.
Spend three days from September 17 visiting a multitude of magnificent gardens and watch the Floral Parade from reserved seating.
All aboard for Fraser Island for four days from September 6. If you’ve always wanted to see the places that everyone talks about without the stress of driving a 4WD, then this is the chance to catch it all.
From Kingfisher Bay Resort, head off to Central Station, Lake McKenzie, 75 Mile Beach, Eli Creek, the Maheno Shipwreck and Eurong. As well as as the guided Beauty Spots Tour, there’s a whale watch adventure cruise to see the humpbacks playing in the sheltered waters off Fraser.
A four-day excursion to the Fraser Coast from October 11, includes trips around Bundaberg and Bargara, as well as a day cruise to Lady Musgrave Island on the Sea Empress. The Hinkler Hall of Aviation, Bundaberg Rum Distillery and the Bundaberg Brewing Company’s “The Barrel” are all on the list.
Once you’ve caught the bug, spread your wings in October for a seven-day excursion to Lightning Ridge, the only place in Australia where the prized black opal is found. There are three days to explore the region, including Grawin, Glengarry & Sheepyard Opal fields, as well as time to visit Miles, Roma, St George and other attractions along the way.
Next year, it’s a short flight to Norfolk Island for eight days immersing in history, culture and natural beauty, from steep ocean clifftops to convict ruins and the famous Norfolk Pines.
This fully escorted tour is a trip overseas without leaving Australian territory. Bookings are now open.
“Coach tours are economical,” Paul says. “Fuel prices aren’t your problem and accommodation and most meals are already sorted as part of the package. On top of that, there’s a direct line to the locals to tap into their knowledge of their home.”
Full tours details and a list of upcoming tours where you can choose your destination and duration, are on the CT Travel website. Visit cttravel.com.au
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ANTARCTICA DAY FLIGHT AND SEQ GETAWAY
9 days departing 16th January, 2022
Include Seaworld Nara Resort, Australian Outback Spectacular, Q1 SkyPoint Observation Deck, Sirromet Winery, Canungra Valley Vineyards, O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat and an incredible day fl ight over ‘The Great White Continent’ onboard the Qantas Dreamliner. WAY OUT WEST
Departing 19th April, 2022 for 17 days
Brisbane to Brisbane including Biloela, Emerald, Longreach, Winton, Eromanga, Cunnamulla, Charlotte Plains, Charleville, Roma and more. THE TOP END
Departing 23rd July, 2022 for 14 days
Uluru sunrise and base walk and the world renown ‘Field of Light’. Kings Canyon creek walk. Western MacDonnell Ranges. Eastern MacDonnell Ranges, Alice Springs, Ormiston Gorge. Arnhem Land including a cruise on the East Alligator River. Kakadu National Park including Jim Jim Falls and more. NZ ULTIMATE SOUTH ISLAND
departing 20th March, 2022 for 12 days
Includes Christchurch, Milford Sound, Te Anau, Dunedin, Mt Cook, Arthur’s Pass, Franz Josef, Queenstown, TranzAlpine Railway, Larnach Castle, Lake Wakatipu, Lake Benmore, Bowen Falls and more.
