My Destination Reykjavik Magazine - Winter 2016

Winter 2016

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YourWinter Adventures Five destinations with year-round possibilities Bíldudalur

Gjögur

Experience excitement in Iceland’s pure nature or get a bird’s eye view of the country’s most beautiful places

Húsavík

Höfn

Reykjavík Westman Islands

Westman Islands One of the wonders of nature, surrounded by mountains, islands, volcanoes and seabirds.

Vatnajökull Region Witness the majestic power of Europe’s largest glacier or conquer Iceland’s highest peak.

North Iceland Visit Húsavík, the whale watching capital, and witness the natural wonders of North Iceland.

The Westfjords Explore one of the country’s most isolated regions, rich in natural wonders.

Pick up our brochure at your hotel or local tourist information centre, or visit us at eagleair.is

BookingsandInformation t. +354 562 4200 e. info@eagleair.is w. eagleair.is Location: Behind Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Natura at Reykjavík Airport

GLACIER WALKS - NORTHERN LIGHTS & OUTDOOR ADVENTURES

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GLACIER WALREYKJAVÍK 2016 DAY TOURS 2016

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FROM & CAVING

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ice lan dr ov er s.i s info@icelan .is mountainguides.is drovers.is guides · Tel: +354 9999 mountain info@mountainguides.is 587 9999 +354 587 · Tel: +354 587 9999 uides.is · Tel: 1

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Hello and Welcome to Iceland

© Reykjavik Excursions

My Destination Reykjavík is a local expert in the global My Destination network. We specialise in giving out relevant, in-depth and up-to-date advice to travellers such as yourself, on our website and in our magazine - this magazine, the one you’re holding in your hands RIGHT NOW. In this magazine, you will learn about some of the best places to eat, shop, party, and go sightseeing, as well as how to get there, in addition to some practical tips and fun facts about Reykjavík and its surrounding areas. (For starters, check out the next article: “Where to Go, What to Do and How to Get There” - which aims to give you an overview over what there is and how to choose what’s best for you).

This magazine aims to give you an insight into all things Reykjavík and the major highlights of the city; however, it is hard to explain to you the magic of Reykjavík on just 92 pages. To be properly informed about everything during your stay here in Iceland we highly recommend a visit to our website, www.mydestinationreykjavik.com.

On the My Destination Reykjavík website you will find absolutely everything you could

possibly want to know about Reykjavík. The greatest thing about the My Destination network and what separates it from other travel sites is that it is filled with tips and reviews from locals who really know what they are talking about. My Destination Reykjavík is there for you whether you want to get to know the history of Iceland, learn about the culture, read about the restaurants you plan on eating at, book your accommodation, rent a car, find out What’s On in Reykjavík, browse through photos or load up on useful information. Basically we have everything you need to get informed and make the best of your trip.

My Destination is a global travel resource that is powered by a diverse community of local experts. The local experts at My Destination Reykjavík are on the ground and have personally experienced what our destination has to offer. We make sure to produce comprehensive information in the form of travel articles, local tips, guides, reviews, videos and panoramic virtual tours. Let My Destination be your tour guide during your stay in Iceland and you will get more out of your experience than you ever thought was possible.

Reykjavik MyDestination Reykjavik Locally Informed, Globally Inspired. www.mydestinationreykjavik.com/

Published by MD Reykjavik ehf. Laugavegur 5, 101 Reykjavik.

Publisher: Sigurþór Marteinn Tel.: 551-3600. E-mail: whatson@whatson.is MANAGING EDITOR: Hjörtur Atli Guðmunds. Geirdal, hjortur@whatson.is.

EDITOR: Gréta Sigríður Einarsdóttir, greta@whatson.is

Printing: Oddi, Ecolabelled Printing Company Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the individual authors.

While every effort has been made to ensure the information presented is accurate, prices, times, dates and other information may be subject to change.

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This magazine is published and distributed in exclusive collaboration with Reykjavik Excursions - a leading tour and coach operator in Iceland.

WARM WELCOME

UNNUR ICELAND 69.990 ISK

DR E S S CO D E I C E L A N D www.cintamani.is | Bankastræti 7 | Aðalstræti 10 | Austurhraun 3 | Smáralind | Kringlan | Akureyri

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48

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thermal pools Reykjavík city museum Reykjavík art museum #reykjavikloves

visitreykjavik.is

Choose a card that suits your stay: 24, 48 or 72 hours

© Icelandic Mountain Guides

OVERVIEW:

WHERE TO GO, WHAT TO DO AND HOW TO GET THERE So you’ve landed in Iceland.

What now? As you sit there on your transit bus, or in an information centre, enthusiastically leafing through this magazine, I’m sure you’re starting to realise that the biggest problem with travelling to Iceland is that there are TOO MANY awesome things to do. It’s enough to give anyone anxiety: should I bus around the magnificent sceneries or hang out in the museums? What’s the difference between the Golden Circle and the South Coast? Well put your mind to rest—here’s the quick-and-dirty overview of what is available and how to choose between them.

We’ll take you there!

WHERE TO GO: SIGHTSEEING TOURS The Golden Circle is without a doubt the best known day tour in Iceland.

What is it? A 300 km loop that usually opens and closes in Reykjavik.

It covers three main locations: Þingvellir National Park, the waterfall Gullfoss and the erupting geyser Strokkur.

Reykjavik Excursions, for instance, has this tour scheduled every day of the week, several times a day, all year round, with guidance in English, German, French and the Scandinavian languages. The question is: Why is it so popular?

The fact is that there is a number of amazing places to see on day trips from Reykjavík, each with their own characteristics and amazing sights.

The Golden Circle gets the upper hand because of the diversity of the sights on the way and because it’s such a short distance from Reykjavík,

the whole tour shouldn’t take more than half a day. Also, there are some pretty magnificent things to be seen there: Þingvellir National Park is unique in two ways: it was the site of the Icelandic Viking Parliament from the year 930 to 1798, and it’s one of the best places in the country to see the tectonic drift—where the earth splits apart by about an inch a year. The Geysir Geothermal Area is unique in that it’s home to basically the only erupting hot spring in Iceland, Strokkur. And Gullfoss (the Golden Waterfall), is definitely one of the larger and more beautiful falls in Iceland.

Whole day/Half day? The Golden Circle is basically a 6-hour excursion, but taking a whole-day tour usually adds something amazing for a relatively small increase in price. You can go horse riding, swimming, or see the Northern Lights.

Reykjavik Excursions | 7

© Elding

© Amazing Tours

OTHER SIGHTSEEING TOURS FROM REYKJAVÍK There is a large number of destinations to day-trip from Reykjavik, each with their unique characteristics.

The South Coast is particularly recommended if you want to see waterfalls and black-sand beaches. The route takes you between a magnificent mountain range on one hand and the deep blue sea on the other—it’s a very scenic drive. You will see waterfalls Seljalandsfoss (famous for allowing visitors to walk behind it), and the huge Skógafoss.

It also offers the jet-black beach by Vík, with cool rock formations and basalt columns.

Reykjanes is the peninsula on which the international airport in Keflavik resides, so if you’ve ridden the bus to Reykjavik, you’ve already got a taste of it. This area is one of the most geologically active places in Iceland.

It has a number of geothermal areas and fumaroles, relatively fresh lava fields, rich history, quaint little folklore and, of course, the Blue Lagoon.

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is directly north of Reykjavik. It has a number of quiet little towns which fill up with fishermen in the summer, the largest of which is Stykkishólmur—a beautiful, picturesque little town with many

historic wooden houses. Finally, the coastline is filled with rock formations and interesting natural phenomena.

WHAT DO I DO WHEN I GET THERE? ACTIVITIES AROUND REYKJAVÍK Now we’ve covered the major places to go sightseeing, but what if you don’t just want to enjoy the scenery? What if you want to do something interesting and exciting while you’re there? Well, luckily there is no shortage of things to do in and around Reykjavík. There are too many to make a comprehensive list, so we recommend talking to a tourist information agent. However, some of the more exciting things are included in the box below.

GETTING AROUND IN COMFORT AND STYLE - HOW TO GET THERE In general, for day trips, you have the choice of a Helicopter, a Super Jeep excursion, a bus tour or renting a car. For most places, you will have most or all of these options, depending on the season and the particular conditions.

Helicopters are of course awesome, so if your budget can handle it, it’s an amazing way to see the scenery and get around. They also have shorter, more cost-effective trips for those who just want to get a feel for it and get some excitement in their life.

© Icelandic Mountain Guides

They also have shorter, more cost-effective trips for those who don’t have enough time to go driving around the whole country but still want some excitement in their lives!

Super Jeeping is the more luxurious of the ground-based options, and they generally take you places where normal vehicles can’t (or shouldn’t) go.

The bus is a classic way to get around—and as opposed to self-drive, you don’t have to worry about finding the way—while the tour guide tells you everything you want to know.

Car Hire, or Self-drive is often the most costeffective for two or more people and offers more freedom, but then you don’t have the service of a driver or a guide.

IDEAS FOR ACTIVITIES Horseback Riding: Anywhere, for instance in the Lava Fields of Reykjanes.

Hot Spring Bathing: Everywhere - the Blue Lagoon is recommended.

Whale Watching: This is great to do from the Reykjavík Old Harbour. If you’re going up north, Húsavík is also a great spot for this.

Snowmobiling on a Glacier: This you can do both near the Golden Circle, on the South Coast and in the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

Hiking on a Glacier: This is easiest to do on the South Coast.

Snorkelling/Diving: Most people do this at Þingvellir National Park though you can go any number of places.

© Íshestar 8 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Caving: Anywhere, but Reykjanes is good. © Mountaineers of Iceland Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Don’t Fight the Power.

Feel It.

Let’s see what some of the guests at our Geothermal Exhibition have to say on TripAdvisor about our clean energy production:

“A must see activity”, “Bucket List”, “... interactive and inspiring”, “Now I’m impressed!”

We hope to welcome you too on your trip to Iceland at the most powerful exhibition in the world.

The exhibition is open every day from 9am-5pm.

Please direct any inquiries to exhibition@on.is Tel: (+354) 591 2880 www.onpower.is/exhibition

FREE RIDE TO REYKJAVÍK'S LARGEST SHOPPING CENTRE

FREE

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BUS KRINGLAN.IS

Departures from the Tourist Information Centre, Aðalstræti 2, and Harpa.

To Kringlan

From Kringlan

Monday – Saturday Every hour 10 am – 5 pm

On the half hour 11:30 am –4:30 pm

Sundays 1, 2, 3, 4 pm

2:30, 3:30, 4:30 pm

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The Magic of the Northern Lights!

Imagine standing outside in the wintery Icelandic landscape, snow crackling underneath your feet, the stars and moon lighting up the mountains all around you just enough to create some aweinspiring shadows by the cliffs. But the moonlight and stars aren’t the only thing brightening up the night sky. High above you flutter rippling green ribbons of light, an otherworldly twinkle of lights, dancing across the night sky. These are the magnificent natural phenomenon of the Northern Lights.

We’ll take you there!

Named after the Roman goddess of the dawn, Aurora, and the Greek name for the north wind, Boreas, the Northern lights have always had a touch of the mystical about them in the minds of men. In other cultures living far enough north to see the lights, the Northern Lights have been thought to be spirits dancing, or signs from god. In Iceland, the aurorae were thought to predict coming weather patterns. It’s easy to see why, while your standing underneath the natural phenomenon, but like so many other miracles of nature, the Northern Lights have been, at least partly, scientifically explained.

In some cases, a scientific explanation erodes some of nature’s charm, for example, as

soon as you realise that birdsong is nothing more than aggressive mating calls, it puts things in another perspective. With the Northern Lights, however, the scientific explanation really only adds another layer of magnificence to the natural phenomenon.

The impressive display of lights is caused when solar storms release particles which, when they reach the earth’s atmosphere, burn up. The colours of the lights depend on how close to the earth the particles get before they are burnt out and the reason that it only happens around the earth’s poles is because of the earth’s magnetic fields. If that isn’t some impressive science, I don’t know what is!

Reykjavik Excursions | 11

So the good news is that the Northern Lights are an impressive sight and if you’re in Iceland during the winter, you have a chance to see them. The bad news is that the aurora isn’t a reliable attraction. The Northern Lights are a natural wonder, meaning they don’t exactly bend to the rules of man. Their brightness and intensity depends on solar storms and they burn up high in the atmosphere, much higher than the clouds, so cloudy skies = no Northern Lights visible.

Also, the lights are relatively dim, compared to other lights that appear in the sky. That’s the reason you can’t see them in the daylight (and of course, Iceland’s midnight sun is the reason you can’t see them in the summer). The glow from the city lights can also interrupt your perfect Northern Lights evening so getting out of the city is vital!

HOW TO SEE THE NORTHERN LIGHTS Okay, so this may be starting to sound a little hopeless but don’t worry, the perfect conditions come together more often than you think. A great tool in the hunt for the Northern Lights is the Iceland Met Office aurora forecast (check out p. 20).

It’s published online at www.en.vedur.is/ weather/forecasts/aurora and wil show you (roughly, it’s not an exact science) how likely it is you’re going to see the lights.

TAKE A TOUR The easiest way to get out of the city to see the Northern lights is simply to take a tour. Reykjavík Excursions has an extensive experience in light guiding, knowing exactly where and when to look for the impressive Northern Lights.

They’re also willing and able to share with you their extensive knowledge of this 12 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

magnificent phenomenon. These guys will ensure your sighting chances are maximised.

The classic Northern Lights tour is available daily throughout the Aurora season. It takes about 3-4 hours and an aurora expert will take you to the best spots, following the lights whenever possible. The good thing about taking a tour is that if there is little chance of spotting the Northern Lights that night, the tours won’t go, so you won’t be disappointed. If you do go out and don’t see the lights, which is always a chance, you get to go again the next night for free! Last but not least, the thing about Northern Lights tours is that they only go in the evening. You can go on another tour during the day or just spend it in Reykjavík and still have time to go out.

If you’re feeling extra luxurios, you can always check out the Warm Baths and Cool Lights tour as well, which offers the perfect mixture of relaxation and Northern Lights hunting. The tour takes you to Laugarvatn Fontana Open Air Geothermal Baths and Spa for a good soak and a lovely local style buffet before heading out towards the Northern lights.

HAPPY HUNTING!

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Day Tours - All the most exciting places in Iceland

WE’LL TAKE YOU THERE!

Experience the Northern Lights with us!

Everyone experiences the aurora borealis differently.

We are proud to offer a great selection of northern lights tours and other day tours.

BOOK NOW!

ON WWW.RE.IS

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION On our tours and services please consult our brochure or visit our website www.re.is

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WE ARE SOCIAL #REYEX R O

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+354 580 5400 • main@re.is • www.flybus.is • www.re.is

A Journey to the Centre of the Earth and more Catching a glimpse of the wonders of Snæfellsnes Peninsula

by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson If you only visit one part of Iceland outside Reykjavík, make it Snæfellsnes! The area is a microcosm of Iceland, easily reachable in a convenient Reykjavik Excursions day trip from Reykjavík. Prepare for majestic mountain views, black-sand beaches, a volcano and glacier rolled into one (a Volclacier? A Glaciano?) and, scattered around the scenery, quaint little towns full of stories.

SNÆFELLSJÖKULL - THE ENTRANCE TO THE CENTRE OF THE EARTH The reigning king of Snæfellsnes landmarks is without a doubt Snæfellsjökull glacier, sitting atop an active volcano on the tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. The volcano is 700.000 years old and has erupted about 20 times since the last ice age.

In his book, A Journey to the Centre of the Earth, Jules Verne used Snæfellsjökull as the point of entry through which Lidenbrock and his team start their journey. Closer to home, the glacier is also the backdrop and titular glacier in Nobel laureate Halldór Laxness’s Under the Glacier. In the park, among other things, you will find Djúpalónssandur beach, where you can test your strength with the three rocks, Strong, Full-Strong and Half-Strong.

These were used by sailors of ages past to compete in strength and the heaviest one is 154 kg! (339 pounds!)

ARNARSTAPI Arnarstapi is a long-abandoned fishing village which comes to life in the summertime, with fishermen sailing from the harbour and people spending their summers in local cottages. It has a camp ground, an inn, and a restaurant. Here you can hike around the surrounding area and enjoy the mind-blowing rock formations of the coastlines from the observation deck to which the RE tour will take you.

STYKKISHÓLMUR Stykkishólmur is a picturesque and beautiful fishing town with only 1100

inhabitants, although that number doubles in the summertime, with all the fishermen and tourists. It serves as the centre of transportation for the area - it’s where you catch the ferry for Flatey Island and Brjánslækur in the Westfjords. The town has many wooden houses from the 19th and early 20th century. The oldest of these is the Norwegian House, built in 1832, which now houses the local folk museum.

Stykkishólmur also has a volcano museum and a swimming pool, among other things.

That’s just a few of the countless interesting things to see, not even mentioning the scattered little farms, the area’s rich history (the peninsula was where the Book of the Icelanders, one of the main historical sources of Iceland was written, as well as being the setting of the ancient Laxdæla), the magnificent Gerðuberg basalt columns, mountains like Helgafell and Hólahólar (the Hill-hills), and many other things. To learn more, book a trip and see for yourself! Tours of the whole area and all the sights are available through Reykjavik Excursions.

Reykjavik Excursions BSI Bus Terminal, Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 564 4776 | www.re.is

14 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Noi Sirius is Iceland’s leading confectionery manufacturer, producing many types of premium chocolate. The delicious taste of the milk chocolate is due to the special breed of Viking cow, native to Iceland, that free roam the countryside, grazing and drinking the purest glacial water in the world.

A Wrist-Work of Art

by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

Clockmaking is one of those professions that carry with it an air of mystique and an aura of respect. You immediately think of skilled craftsmen from somewhere in the middle of Europe—Switzerland or Vienna—who learned the skill on their father's knee, who learned it from his father before him and so on and so forth. But what if I told you that a watchmaker doesn’t have to be old, have been doing it since forever, or even be Swiss to produce quality timepieces with a unique design?

A ROCKY START This is exactly what Sigurður Gilbertsson, along with his friends, Grímkell Sigurþórsson and Júlíus Heiðarsson, told his father, Gilbert Ó Guðjónsson, when he tried to persuade him to join their venture of designing and producing their 16 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

own collection of high-quality watches.

Gilbert, a watchmaker with more than 40 years of work and experience of the difficult Icelandic economy under his belt, laughed in his face. Such an ambitious production for such a small market seemed a farfetched idea, no matter the accumulated expertise of the people involved.

customer care. It’s very important for us that the people who buy our timepieces know the level of perfection we try to achieve. Although we aim to get that message across in our international sales, nothing beats talking to someone face to face and inviting them into our workshop.

When Gilbert stopped laughing and realised that his son was serious, things started happening. They made a hundred watches of their own design to begin with and the rest is history. Today, JS Watch co. is a thriving business with several different collections of high-quality design watches, each of them bearing witness to the craftsmanship that goes into making them. They’re also selling like hotcakes, proving beyond a shadow of a doubt that you don’t have to be Swiss to make a quality watch.

A SATISFIED CUSTOMER IS THE BEST REWARD

THE DEVIL’S IN THE DETAILS But what is it about the JS watches?

The team credits their success to their attention to detail. “We not only take pride in our watches, but also our

JS Watch clientele includes some famous faces (or should I say famous wrists), including Tom Cruise and Yoko Ono. Perhaps even more interesting, other clients of note include the entire Icelandic Coastguard. JS Watch co. is the Coastguard’s official supplier of watches and the offshore emergency service exclusively uses the Sif North Atlantic Rescue Timer, which should give you an idea of the brand’s reputation for durability and accuracy.

JS Watch co.

Laugavegur 62, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 4100 | www.jswatch.com Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

PROBABLY THE

WORLD’S SMALLEST WATCH MANUFACTURER

Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop.

All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland.

Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection.

At JS Watch co. Reykjavik we’re committed to provide a personal quality service and we pride ourselves on the close relationships we have with our customers.

We’re always happy to assist and we provide a friendly and reliable service where our customers speak directly to the designers and manufacturers of the brand.

Scan it and learn more! www.jswatch.com

Gilbert Watchmaker, Laugvegur 62, 101 Reykjavik, tel + (354) 551 4100, www.jswatch.com

Counting down to

Christmas 24 things you need to know about Christmas in Iceland

6. Winter solstice

in Iceland, Christmas is a festival of lights.

This might seem odd as it takes place during the darkest time of the year but Christmas coincides with the winter solstice and we celebrate the fact that in the coming weeks, the days are getting longer.

14. Thirteen days of Christmas

When it comes to the holidays, Icelanders don’t even understand the word moderation. In fact, Iceland isn’t satisfied with one measly day of Christmas, we have thirteen!

3. The City Christmas tree

Most towns in Iceland have at least one official Christmas tree. The lights on the trees are usually lit on the first Sunday of the advent (fourth Sunday before Christmas).

The Reykjavík Christmas tree stands on Austurvöllur, in front of the parliament building.

7. Christmas lights

Like I said, Christmas in Iceland is a celebration of lights. It’s the darkest time of the year, so what better way to celebrate than to decorate your house with way too many Christmas lights? Extra points if they blink or change colours!

22. Christmas apples

1. Advent

4. Laufabrauð

The Advent is the period from the fourth Sunday before Christmas until Christmas eve. This is the official Christmas preparation period!

These crisp, wafer-thin wheat cakes are a labour-intensive production as each one is carefully rolled out and carved with delicate decorations before it is deep-fried until golden. Families usually gather for a whole day of cutting and decorating the cakes.

10. Christmas cat

Ahh, the Christmas cat. Sounds cozy, right?

Snuggly, even. Well, it isn’t. The Christmas cat is a troll’s cat and he eats children. Not even children who’ve been naughty, he eats children who aren’t wearing new clothes for Christmas.

The gleaming red apple has for years been the unequivocal Christmas fruit. The reason is simple, most fruit is imported to Iceland and for a long while, Christmas was the only time to get apples. These days, we have the luxury of year-round fruit but apples still have a seat at the Christmas feast.

15. The Second Day of Christmas Pretty self-explanatory, this is the day after Christmas day. It’s usually spent going to parties with your extended family and eating too much chocolate.

5. Book flood

2. Advent lights

The advent light, an electric candelabra with seven candles, is a recent addition to Icelandic Christmas traditions. In the seventies, an Icelandic businessman saw some in Scandinavia, thought they looked cool and brought one home.

Then all his friends wanted one. Thus, an Icelandic tradition was born.

18 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Icelanders publish an extraordinary number of books each year, considering the size of the nation. The Christmas season is the most important period in publishing in Iceland because books are a particularly popular Christmas gift.

12. Yule lads

The Yule lads are best known, these days, for leaving small presents in children’s shoes. All children put their best shoe in the window to receive a treat from the yule lads, although some of the worst behaved ones can only expect a potato.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

23. Þorláksmessa

11. Christmas Cookies

Not only do we have the second day of Christmas; we also celebrate the day before Christmas eve! On Þorláksmessa, people finish the last of the Christmas shopping like you would expect, but a peculiar tradition involves eating fermented skate. The pungent aroma and less than delicate flavour will make you that much more appreciative of the delicious Christmas feast the following day!

Christmas cookies have a special place in the ranks of Christmas food, mostly because of how much they mattered to a homemaker’s reputation. Making several different types of cookies all while keeping the house immaculately clean earned you major bragging rights.

19. Christmas Stress

18. Christmas Songs

If Christmas celebrations in Iceland are reserved for family, New Year’s Eve is the time to celebrate with friends. After eating way too much and watching the National TV’s annual comedy hour, it’s time to head out with the fireworks!

9. Christmas Buffet

An ugly side effect of the Christmas season is the Christmas stress.

Luckily, there are plenty of ways to combat the stress, relax and lower those inhuman expectations. We recommend a strong dose of Christmas concerts, hot chocolate and Christmas cookies!

Like most places, you’re going to start hearing them way too early and be sick of them way before Christmas starts. It’s pretty similar to what you might imagine, with one exception; the translations. Many beloved Icelandic Christmas songs are actually foreign songs (not necessarily Christmas songs even) with Icelandic lyrics.

16. New Year’s Eve

Eating Christmas food is the best, so why limit yourself to just Christmas dinner? Most restaurants in Iceland offer special Christmas buffet menus that are popular with families, groups of friends and office Christmas parties.

Expect herring, smoked lamb, smoked pork and turkey, with a range of sauces, sides, and desserts you’ll be dreaming about for years!

21. Malt & Appelsín In Iceland, the traditional Christmas drink is a nonalcoholic one, a mixture of two sodas produced in Iceland, malt-flavoured Malt and orange-flavoured Appelsín.

24. Christmas Eve

When the main Christmas celebrations in Iceland take place. At exactly six pm people sit down to Christmas dinner (or go to church, followed by dinner) and exchange gifts afterwards.

Merry Christmas!

13. Gifts in the Shoe

The Yule lads are slightly more benevolent these days and are best known for leaving small presents in children’s shoes. All children put their best shoe in the window to receive a treat from the yule lads, although some of the worst behaved ones can only expect a potato.

20. Hangikjöt

Hangikjöt translates directly as hung meat, but that is of course not even close to describing the earthy, smoky and nostalgic tones of smoked lamb. Whether it’s served raw in tiny slices or in the traditional way, boiled with a side of béchamel sauce and green peas, it’s going to make every Icelander sigh with a nostalgia-tinted delight.

8. Christmas Markets

Christmas markets are a relatively new phenomenon in Iceland’s Christmas habits but we’ve taken to it like ducks to water. There’s a good one in the city centre but the one in Hafnarfjörður is very worth the visit as well.

We'll take you there!

17. New year’s bonfire

After dinner on New Years’ Eve, you need something to do. Why not go out and burn stuff? Most towns in Iceland have a huge bonfire on New Year’s Eve, Reykjavík even has 16! This is known as burning away the old year and is believed to be essential to be able to start the new year with a clean slate.

Reykjavik Excursions | 19

HOW TO READ THE NORTHERN LIGHTS FORECAST IN ICELAND The Northern Light forecast can be found on en.vedur.is/ weather/forecasts/aurora/ but it is a little hard to decipher if you’ve never seen it before.

Our handy guide should make things a little bit easier.

THE COLORS WHITE means NO CLOUDS, while DARK GREEN means VERY CLOUDY. The different

THE NUMBERS The numbers are a combination of how likely it is for the lights to be active and how active they will be. Don’t be discouraged if the number looks low, it’s actually very rare for the number to be higher than five. Also, take this with a grain of salt; a low number doesn't mean that they won't come out or won't be impressive, and a high number isn't a guarantee that they will be glorious all through the night.

GOING ON A TOUR? There are many tours taking you out of the bright city lights for a better chance of seeing the Aurora. These tours will be CANCELLED if there is no chance of seeing the lights.

20 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

shades of green then mean more, or less, cloudy.

All the major operators can be relied on to do this, first of all because there is a high standard of professionalism in Iceland, but more importantly because they lose money if they take you out needlessly – most of them promise to take you out again for free if you don’t see anything.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLU 71197 10/14

AIRICELAND.IS

ACTION PACKED TOURS ICELAND AND GREENLAND Air Iceland is your West Nordic airline, offering scheduled domestic flights and flights from Iceland to the Faroe Islands and Greenland. Choose from a variety of day tour packages in Iceland, and to Greenland, which include flight, bus transfer and guidance.

A FEW EXAMPLES

Day Tour

Day Tour

Day Tour

AKUREYRI AND SURROUNDINGS

LAKE MYVATN

WATERFALL DETTIFOSS WINTER

⊲ Akureyri

⊲ Myvatn

⊲ Super Jeep and snowshoe

Day Tour

Day Tour

Day Tour

WORLD OF ICE AND DARKNESS

EASTERN LANDSCAPES

FISHERMAN CULTURE DAY

⊲ Super Jeep and snowshoe

⊲ Egilsstadir and the

⊲ Isafjordur

winter challenge

surrounding area

CONTACT AIR ICELAND OR ANY TRAVEL AGENT FOR RESERVATIONS For more Day Tours, look at our website www.airceland.is websales@airiceland.is tel. +354 570 3030

adventure

WELCOME TO REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM Reykjavík Art Museum is housed in three unique buildings in the city centre and holds some of the most distinguished works in Iceland’s artistic landscape.

CONTEMPORARY Hafnarhús (Tryggvagata 17) is the largest building in the network, located downtown by the harbour. Built in the 1930s, this refurbished fishery office and warehouse now houses permanent exhibitions of the works of Erró (b. 1932), one of Europe´s most notable pop artists, an enfant terrible of modern art and the embodiment of Iceland´s youthful artistic spirit. The temporary shows at Hafnarhús tend toward the progressive and experimental, emphasizing works from established modern artists, highlighting current notables and encouraging the works of newcomers.

MODERN Kjarvalsstaðir (Flókagata 24) is the first building in Iceland designed specifically to display works of visual art. Its doors opened in 1973 and it is named after the painter Jóhannes S. Kjarval (1885-1972), one of Iceland´s most influential and recognized artists. The most comprehensive collection

of Kjarval´s works is on permanent display here, highlighting his range of styles as well his use of the local nature and mythology.

A fine example of Nordic modernism, the building features floor-to-ceiling windows with a view of Klambratún Park.

SCULPTURE Ásmundarsafn (Sigtún) is the former home and workshop of the sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson (1893-1982), who designed and mostly constructed the building himself.

The museum serves to honour his life and work, and displays the largest collection of his sculptures both inside and outside the building. Ásmundur´s art greatly reflects his lifelong interest in the Icelandic sagas, folk tales and classical mythology. The building itself is a magnificent work of architecture, largely inspired by the Egyptian pyramids and the mosques of the Middle East. Ásmundarsafn also houses temporary exhibitions and installations.

POOLS & SPAS IN REYKJAVÍK

22 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Hafnarhús Tryggvagata 17, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 411 6400 | www.artmuseum.is Open daily from 10 - 17 and from 10 - 22 on Thursdays.

Kjarvalsstaðir Flókagata 24, 105 Reykjavík Tel: +354 411 6420 | www.artmuseum.is Open daily from 10 - 17. Ásmundarsafn Sigtún, 105 Reykjavík Tel: +354 411 6430 | www.artmuseum.is Open daily May-September from 10 - 17/ October-April from 13 - 17

THERMAL POOLS INCLUDED IN THE REYKJAVÍK CITY CARD Árbæjarlaug

Geothermal water is one of Iceland’s greatest natural resources. It’s used to heat houses and produce electricity, but most importantly, Icelanders love to swim in it. Pools and spas are a huge part of the Reykjavík lifestyle.

Fylkisvegur 9, 110 Reykjavík | 411 5200 Open: M-T 06-22, F 06:30-20, Sat-Sun 09-18

The country has over 170 pools—spread around the country and throughout all of the capital region’s neighbourhoods. Most swimming complexes include a lap pool, a hot tub or five and at least one steam room. If you’d like to treat yourself to Reykjavík’s loved spa culture, indulge in a trip to the local pool or spa.

Grafarvogslaug

Breiðholtslaug Austurberg 3, 111 Reykjavík | 557 5547 Open: M-T 06:30-22, F 06:30-20, Sat-Sun 09-18 Dalhús 2, 112 Reykjavík | 510 4600 Open: M-T 06:30-22, F 06:30-20, Sa –Su 09-18

Klébergslaug Kjalarnes, 116 Reykjavík | 566 6879 Open: M-F 15-22, Sa-Su 11-15 Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

EXPERIENCE THE REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM Experience the history of Reykjavík in a lively and engaging way at the Reykjavík City Museum. The museum comprises five individual sites: ÁRBÆR OPEN AIR MUSEUM Kistuhylur, Reykjavík This unique museum gives visitors a tangible sense of Reykjavík’s past. It comprises a village-like collection of over twenty “homes,” each of which is a separate exhibition. Visitors learn how Reykjavík developed from a few scattered farms into the capital of Iceland.

During winter, September – May, the museum is only open for a one hour guided tour at 13:00.

THE SETTLEMENT EXHIBITION Aðalstræti 16, Reykjavík In Aðalstræti 16, visitors can experience the settlement of Iceland in late 9th century through a remarkable exhibition called The Settlement Exhibition which revolves around the actual remains of a Viking Age longhouse that have been preserved in situ.

This exhibition gives an invaluable insight into the life and times of the first people to inhabit the Reykjavík area and the ways in which they adapted to their new environment.

REYKJAVÍK MARITIME MUSEUM Grandagarður 8, Reykjavík The museum‘s permanent exhibition portrays the Icelandic fisheries at the turn of the 20th century and realistically depicts the lives of

Icelandic fishermen. Special attractions: the exhibitions Sea Women and For Cod’s Sake, and the coast guard vessel Óðinn with guided tours daily in the afternoon.

REYKJAVÍK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY Tryggvagata 15, top floor.

Visit the exciting photographic exhibition PORTRAITS by Hasselblad Award Winners.

This exhibition features a selection of works by Hasselblad Award winners, with a particular focus on portraiture. Seen from the eyes of seven photographers, with works from the late 1940s until 2014, the exhibition features seminal pieces by legendary photographers such as Irving Penn – and his portrayals of Salvador Dalí and Marcel Duchamp – or Richard Avedon, depicting the power elite of 1970s America.

VIÐEY ISLAND

From the Hasselblad Foundation Collection

Viðey Island is situated just off the coast of Reykjavík. In addition to beautiful natural surroundings, ancient ruins and rich historical background, you can also see the “Imagine Peace Tower” by Yoko Ono and “The Milestones Project” by Richard Serra. The island is also the nesting ground for over 30 species of birds.

For information about admission, opening hours and ferry schedule please visit our web www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is

OTHER THERMAL POOLS IN THE CAPITAL AREA Laugardalslaug Sundlaugarvegur, 104 Reyk. | 411 5100 Open: M-F 6:30-22, Sa-Su 08-22

Sundhöll Reykjavíkur Barónstígur, 101 Reykjavík | 411 5350 Open: M-T 06:30-22, F 06:30-20, Sa 08-16, Su 10-18

Vesturbæjarlaug Hofsvallagata, 101 Reykjavík | 411 5150 Open: M-T 6:30-22, F 06:30-20, Sat-Sun 09-18

We’ll take you there!

Sundhöll Hafnarfjarðar Herjólfsgata 10, Hafnarfjörður 555 0088

Ásvallalaug Ásvellir 2, Hafnarfjörður | 512 4050

Salalaug

Álftaneslaug

Versalir 3, 201 Kópavogur 570 0480

Bjarnastaðir, 225 Álftanes | 550 2350

Lágafellslaug

Sundlaug Seltjarnarness

Suðurbæjarlaug

Lækjarhlíð 1a, 270 Mosfellsbær 517 6080

Suðurströnd, 170 Seltjarnarnes 561 1551

Hringbraut 77, Hafnarfjörður 565 3080

Varmárlaug

Loftleiðalaug

270 Mosfellsbær | 566 6754

Kópavogslaug

Garðabæjarlaug

Borgarholtsbraut 17, Kópavogur 570 0470

Ásgarður, 210 Garðabær | 565 8066

Loftleiðir hotel, 101 Reykjavík 444 4085

Nauthólsvík Nauthólsvegur, 101 Reykjavík 511 6630 Reykjavik Excursions | 23

A Food Designer with a Passion for Raw Foods by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

If you ever intend to try your luck as a journalist, let me give you a piece of advice: to interview a restaurant owner at lunch time during the opening of a new location of her restaurant is a phenomenally bad idea. After showing up at Gló and watching a tiny hurricane of a woman run around for a few minutes, I made a judgement call and told her I would be back in the afternoon. Which, retrospectively, should have been my plan from the beginning.

A few different businesses operate under the name of Gló in the Reykjavík area, two restaurants focusing on healthy fast food, as well as two more traditional restaurants, a juice bar and a market. The owner and master chef, Solla Eiríksdóttir, has been involved in vegetarian and raw food cuisine for over 30 years. My first question, when I finally got her to sit down, was simply: How did this start?

“I became a vegetarian before I was twenty years old. I was sick with allergies and food intolerance and was forced to choose between going on medication or completely changing my diet. I chose the latter and became a vegetarian, a life change that soon turned into a passion for making good healthy food as well as spreading the gospel to othersl. Soon I started teaching vegetarian cooking and by 1994, I had my first restaurant.

16 years after my change, I found myself ready to try something new. That is when I gained interest in raw foods. I went to Puerto Rico in 1996 to study raw cooking. So I entered the world of raw rather early. “ According to Solla, people tend to connect “healthy” with “bad taste” in their minds. Her objective is to obliterate that connection by making raw food based on recipes and ideas that people already know and love.

“My goal is to slowly but surely root out the prejudice and misconception that people have regarding raw food. In 25 years, the 24 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

option of having raw meals will have become as common and natural as the vegetarian alternative is today.”

The road to reform is long and winding and Solla takes her role very seriously.

“I am extremely passionate about this.

Instead of turning my belief that raw food makes everything better just onto myself, I have spent the last 17 years inventing and developing recipes that turn what people already know into raw food. As a result, my restaurants offer pizza, enchiladas, sushi and lasagne, all according to the raw ideology. The idea is to get people to have a taste, to like it and to come back. “ But what exactly does the raw concept embody? According to Solla, it is a cooking method that entails heating the food to only 42-47°C. That way the enzymes in the food can be preserved in order to give the human body a chance to maintain its self-healing abilities. This applies to vegetables, fruit, nuts, seeds and corn. But in order to get people on board, Solla adds a twist: “Our restaurants always offer six to nine types of salads, one raw dish, one cooked vegan or vegetarian dish and one chicken dish. We cook the chicken in a simple manner and then we add the raw sauces and good spices to get people used to the raw taste and texture. The purpose of this twist is to enable people who enjoy good raw and vegetarian food to come

here and eat with their friends or spouses who do not share their taste in food … yet” she says and laughs. Her endeavours have not gone unnoticed outside of Iceland. Solla has been voted “Favourite Raw Gourmet Chef” and “Favourite Raw Simple Chef” in the annual Best of Raw contest, which accepts nominations and votes through their website bestofrawfoods.com. This is indeed an exceptional honour for her and a priceless praise for Gló. Towards the end of our meeting, I asked this ridiculously busy woman if she never gets tired. She smiled and said: “Yes, but I have so much passion. The passion keeps me going. The days have been long in preparing the opening of the new restaurant, but I have been giddy as a little girl from excitement. I am so utterly convinced that Hippocrates was right when he said that we are what we eat. People are just people; they all have to eat. I want them to eat well and feel welcome.

Gló Laugavegur 20b, 101 Reykjavík Engjateigur 19, 105 Reykjavík Strandgata 34, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 553 1111 | www.glo.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Welcome to Gló Restaurant AT LAUGAVEGUR Gló is Iceland’s most popular health food restaurant in Reykjavik. Gló offers different set menu everyday: Raw food, chicken, a vegetarian dish and soup. Tasty desserts, coffee, tea and delicious juices are offered as well.

Laugavegur 20b · Open every day 11–22 · Tel 553 1111 · www.glo.is · #gloiceland

The Wonders of Volcanoes The Volcano House stands near the old harbour, close to Reykjavík’s city centre. It gives guests a glimpse of how the threat of a volcanic eruption or earthquakes is part of daily life in Iceland.

AN ICELANDIC VOLCANO IS THE REASON FOR DEMOCRACY AS WE KNOW IT The 1783-4 eruption of Laki, one of Iceland's largest volcanoes, was the biggest eruption in recorded history. When it erupted, the ash darkened the sky over all of Europe for years.

It also caused widespread crop failures and the resulting famine all over Europe almost certainly was one of the causes of the French revolution of 1789. When the people ran out of bread and were told by their rulers that they should “eat cake” instead, they revolted, resulting in the first modern democracy as we know it.

NOT JUST ONE, BUT TWO OF THE BIGGEST ERUPTIONS IN THE RECORDED HISTORY OF THE WORLD, OCCURRED IN ICELAND! Laki was, as I said, the biggest eruption in recorded history, measured by volume of lava.

But Iceland was also recently the site of the second biggest emission in recorded history: the 2014 eruption of Bárðarbunga. In just 6 months, Bárðarbunga produced enough lava to cover the island of Manhattan – 85km2.

And Laki? That produced 370 km2 of lava – the size of the Gaza strip – in only 50 days!

ICELAND HAS THE ONLY ISLAND SCIENTISTS HAVE BEEN ABLE TO OBSERVE AND DOCUMENT FROM THE MOMENT OF ITS CREATION: SURTSEY Surtsey was formed by a volcanic eruption at the bottom of the ocean and emerged from the water on November 14, 1963. It was immediately granted protection by law and to this day only scientists are allowed to go there. Even they have to get special permission. This means that we have been able to monitor how life settles on a brandnew land from the beginning, and has of course been invaluable to scientists.

1/3 OF ALL THE EARTH’S FRESH LAVA ORIGINATED IN ICELAND! When you’re discussing volcanoes, all concepts that have something to do with time get a bit skewed. For instance, fresh lava means lava emissions on earth since the year 1500. The reason for this impressive amount of liquid rock spewing to the surface s because not only does Iceland sit on top of a crack between two tectonic plates, it’s also on top of a geologic hot spot. Even so, for such a small island, that’s a lot of lava!

ICELAND HAS A VOLCANIC ERUPTION EVERY 4-5 YEARS! This isn’t surprising considering the island has somewhere between 150-200 volcanoes, split into different volcanic systems. About 30 different systems are still considered “active” in Iceland, and 13 of them have erupted since the Viking Settlement in 874.

WANT TO GET UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH THE VOLCANOES OF ICELAND? To learn more about Icelandic volcanoes, visit the Volcano House by the old harbour. Along with a mineral exhibition, the Volcano House has an hourly Volcano Show, featuring two documentaries on two of Iceland’s biggest eruptions.

The first is about the eruption in the Vestmannaeyjar Islands in 1973. The small fisherman community was suddenly under attack in the middle of the night, without warning, forcing nearly 5,000 locals away from their homes. The second film documents the infamous eruption in Eyjafjallajökull 2010.

This massive eruption caused thousands of flight cancellations, leaving millions of people stranded.

The mineral exhibition gives an overview of Iceland’s geological history and volcanic systems. A large collection of semi-precious rocks and minerals, as well as ash and lava, is also on a display.

Volcano House Tryggvagata 11, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 555 1900 | www.volcanohouse.is 26 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

AURORA REYKJAVÍK THE NORTHERN LIGHTS CENTER

MULTIMEDIA EXHIBITION

360° VIRTUAL REALITY

TIME-LAPSE MOVIE THEATER

Can’t catch the Northern Lights?

Don’t worry, we have already done it for you!

Visit us and enjoy our multimedia exhibition

Maritime museum

OPEN EVERY DAY FROM 09:00 - 21:00

CCP Icelandair Hótel Marina

Aurora Reykjavík

Grandagarður 2 | 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 780 4500 Bus 14 | Free Parking www.aurorareykjavik.is

The old harbour Harpa Music hall Reykjavík Art museum Kolaportið flea market

@aurorareykjavik

@aurorareykjavik

@aurorareykjavik

Mastering the Simplicity of Good Bistro What do you get when you cross a French bistro with Scandinavian cuisine and a location in Reykjavík? Something completely different!

Snaps bistro embodies fusion gone right, with its perfect blend of French, Danish, and Icelandic influences. It’s not just the food that takes its cue from this different culture, but the place itself as well; the design, table setting, and service.

The bistro setting is reminiscent of a charming café on the left bank and the menu will not disappoint either for the adorers of French cuisine. With classic dishes such as croque monsieurs, moules frites, bouillabaisse and confit de canard on the menu, it’s easy to imagine that you could look out the window and see the Eiffel tower peeking over the colourful roofs of the Reykjavík centre.

But the menu is not limited to the French classics. If you’re familiar with Danish culture, you’ll know all about the Danish open-faced sandwiches, or smørrebrød. These delicious morsels of Scandinavia are as pretty as they’re delicious and again, the menu features the classics, like Stjerneskud and Kartoffelmad, as well as Snaps’s own twist.

Finally, of course, Snaps is neither in Paris nor Copenhagen, but Reykjavík. This takes the Danish/French fusion to whole new heights.

Not only are top quality Icelandic ingredients in the foreground, but the demands and tastes of Icelandic palates inspire the chefs to

be innovative and imaginable in the kitchen.

The restaurant has a lovely cocktail menu, featuring a special gin and tonic menu for aficionados of the classic cocktail. The chefs at Snaps don’t ignore the wealth of fresh seafood available in Iceland, serving a lovely fish of the day from the day’s freshest catch and last but not least, the Snaps brunch is one of the most popular in Reykjavík.

Snaps Óðinstorg, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 511 6677 | www.snaps.is

THE HARDEST HARD ROCK ON THE PLANET

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Vis

©2015 Hard Rock International (USA), Inc. All rights reserved.

Rock on at the northernmost Hard Rock Cafe in the world. Cool, tough, intense, exciting, powerful – just like the weather. Hard Rock Cafe Reykjavik opens in the city center in October.

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ebo

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HARD ROCK CAFE REYKJAVIK

HRCREYKJAVIK

#THISISHARDROCK

H V Í TA H Ú S I Ð / S Í A

GET YOUR DESIGNER BR ANDS TA X F R E E AT K E F L AV I K A I R P O R T

THE FIVE MOST

INSTAGRAM

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WORTHY SPOTS

OUTSIDE

REYKJAVIK

© Icelandic Mountain Guides

Jökulsárlón The best spot in Iceland, hands down, to get a photo worth a record number of likes, is the Glacial lagoon – Jökulsárlón. The still water, the blue and black icebergs, the gravelly sand banks surrounding it and the possibility of a photobombing seal or two make sure there’s no doubt about it.

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Geysir (or more accurately, Strokkur) It’s an erupting geyser, of course it’s going to look amazing in photographs. It’s a close call for the top spot but since getting a photo of the jet of water requires lighting reflexes and a bit of waiting, it has to settle for number two.

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Hraunfossar Waterfalls always make for good photos but waterfalls that stream out from underneath lava fields and flow over smooth red cliffs will earn you extra points!.

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Þingvellir Þingvellir – This place has an impressive history but what’s even more impressive are the cliffs flanking the rift between the tectonic plates, where the land is ever so slowly pulling apart.

32 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

© Sterna

Anywhere with Northern Lights I know what you’re thinking; why isn’t this at the top?

Well, because Northern Lights photography is a little trickier than just clicking a button.

It’s still going to be good but it’s going to take a little work.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

THE FIVE MOST

INSTAGRAM

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WORTHYSPOTS

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INSIDE REYKJAVIK

Hallgrímskirkja Hallgrímskirkja is the most recognisable landmark in Reykjavík.

It’s architecture is impeccably tasteful and Skólavörðustígur, the street leading up to it is extremely photogenic as well. The reason this magnificent church takes the top spot is that not only does it look good from the street; the view from the top is incomparable! The candycoloured buildings in the city centre, along with the view of mount Esja is Instagram gold!

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The Pond The pond is a tiny lake in the centre of the city. Much like the Seine or the Thames in their respective cities, this body of water is really the heart of the city. It’s almost impossible to take a bad photo of the pond, it looks good fram every angle and in every weather!

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Sólfarið The metal sculpture inspired by a Viking longboat is pretty all by itself but it’s the setting that makes it one of the most photogenic spots in Reykjavík. With a dramatic backdrop of the ocean and mount Esja, Sólfarið is every instagrammer’s dream!

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Harpa The Reykjavík concert hall is a new addition to the Reykjavík cityscape but makes up for lack of history by consistently looking impressive and pretty.

The glass walls look good in the daylight, both from the inside and out and when it gets dark, the lights display is an occasion for a whole new photosession!

Perlan Perlan is a great spot for views of Reykjavík and the peculiar architechture makes for a solid Instagram photo, instantly recogniseable as taken in Reykjavík.

Tag your Instagram photos with #WhatsOnRVK and you might find it in the What's On Magazine!

We’ll take you there!

Reykjavik Excursions | 33

What to Expect in an Icelandic Swimming Pool

Every country has traditions when it comes to leisure. In our part of the world said traditions tend to evolve around keeping warm. Finland has saunas, Russia has vodka, Iceland has swimming pools.

THE HOT TUBS It all started with the hot tubs. They have literally been part of Iceland since the settlement. The most famous one is Snorri Sturluson‘s pool, Snorralaug in Reykholt, who is presumed to have lived from 1178 – 1241. His pool is one of four ancient pools in Iceland still in use. Today there are around 12.000 summer houses in Iceland, I will tread carefully and say that at least 11.000 of them have a hot tub. There is a hot tub outside half the houses in my neighbourhood and most of the hotels in Reykjavík have a spa with a hot tub so you really have to make an effort if you plan to avoid them.

Almost every swimming pool in Iceland makes good use of the plentiful geothermal water and has a hot tub or five to keep the patrons warm and cosy, even on the darkest of winter nights.

THE CHATTER It goes without saying that swimming and unwinding in warm geothermal water on a regular basis is good for both body and soul.

What is even more wonderful regarding these blessed pools of ours is their role as social centres. All over the country, people gather regularly in the hot tubs to catch up on the latest gossip, political scandals and weather forecasts. There are even people who show up every day at the same time, hang their clothes on the same hook to have their daily 34 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

hot tub chat with the same co-swimmers they meet there every day. The earliest of the bunch are sometimes called “the doorknobs”, because they tend to be already clasping the knob when the swimming pool staff show up for work, still yawning and stretching.

In the afternoon and evening the chatter begins again but the crowd is different, parents having quality time with their kids, people relaxing after work or workout and dating. Yes, dating. Going for a nice soak in a hot tub in the evening is a popular second date in Iceland. The swimming pools of Iceland are universal and people of all ages, from the new-born (baby swimming is very popular here) to centenarians who like to keep active in the warm waters.

THE FACILITIES You will find more outdoor than indoor pools in Iceland. The reason is simple; the outdoor ones are less expensive. Which is fine, the fresh air is good for you. And there is nothing like having a swim and a hot tub during a blizzard, please do if you possibly can.

What we have in many places, to add to the goose bumps, are outdoor dressing rooms.

Drying after a swim and a hot tub on a winter evening in -5°C is one of the most refreshing experiences you will encounter. And don’t be scared of the cold, outdoor dressing rooms in Icelandic swimming pools are (usually) equipped with heat lamps to keep you warm.

THE EXPOSURE Before people take a dip in our luxurious swimming pools, they need to wash, thoroughly. It makes all the sense in the world, bathing in other people’s filth hardly seems like a pleasant experience. This brings us to the communal showers. Every single person in Iceland has been doing this since before they can remember so showering with other people of their gender is about as uneventful as eating lunch, but we’ve recently figured out that in some countries it’s not such a regular occurrence.

Trust me when I tell you that it should be no big deal; after all, everyone is in the same boat and there are going to be bodies of all shapes and sizes there. In fact, I’m pretty sure this promotes a healthier body image, but if you do feel uncomfortable about it, some pools have privacy cubicles, just enquire about them before you get in.

You can find the opening hours of most swimming pools in Reykjavík on page 22 and for all the pools in Iceland at www. sundlaugar.is. They usually open pretty early in the morning and close sometime after dinner. Last but not least, if you don’t have a swimsuit, you can usually rent one so what are you waiting for? Get swimming!

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

ALL THE ICELANDIC BEERS IN ONE AWESOME PLACE

An Adventure Under a Bridge As you can imagine, Icelanders have easy access to some of the best seafood in the world. Leaving Iceland without having a taste of these succulent delicacies would be a travesty!

It’s not just trolls that live under bridges.

Nestled underneath a bridge in one of the oldest parts of Reykjavík lies one of the best seafood restaurants in Iceland, The Fish Company. Although this tastefully decorated restaurant couldn’t be more different from a smelly troll’s den, it does also inspire a sense of adventure.

The restaurant, as the name suggests, specialises in seafood dishes but the focus is not just on the delicious food but the experience of eating as well. The restaurant offers its patrons the chance to take a

culinary trip around Iceland, or indeed the world as a whole, all without ever leaving the table. Whether you decide to travel around Iceland or make the whole world your stomping grounds, you’re in for a treat. With the chef as the driver and the waiter as your guide you can look forward to a mouth-watering taste of the best and freshest local ingredients prepared in a way to let their taste shine the brightest.

leave. You’ll have to, at the end of the night, but you don’t have to go home right away.

A walk around the lively city centre, after a good meal, is the perfect way to end an evening and the Fish Company is ideally located to do so. It’s the perfect happily ever after to mark the end of your fairy tale underneath a bridge.

When you return to the old house in the centre of Reykjavík after your trip, something tells me you’ll be reluctant to

The Fish Company Vesturgata 2a, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 5300 | www.fiskfelagid.is

SOME PEOPLE WALK IN THE RAIN Using only the the finest materials and craftsmanship the Reykjavik Raincoats are 100% waterproof like the fisherman’s style coats that were around in the 70’s.

I WISH IT WOULD RAIN At Reykjavik Raincoats we are extremely passionate about raincoats and our goal is to make the perfect raincoat that makes you wish it would rain every day just so you can wear your Reykjavik Raincoat.

OTHERS JUST GET WET Handmade in rubberized cotton fabric with double stitched seams and welding on the inside for the perfect protection against driving rain and piercing winds with vents under arms to help with circulation and promoting good air flow.

Our aim is to carefully construct raincoats in the highest standard and sell them with love to people who care about quality. These coats are for people who have an emotional attachment to the clothes that accompany them through life.

From City Lights to Super Jeeps by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir & Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson

Have you ever been on top of a glacier? You won’t believe this magical realm of white plains above the world. There isn’t a better way to explore it than the excitement and comfort of a snowmobile.

Snowmobiles are great fun and easy to operate. All the Mountaineers’ snowmobiles are two seated touring sleds with hand warmers and a high windshield. Participants can choose between a double and a single ride, so just stick the kids in the back seat and get going!

The Mountaineers of Iceland offer day tours where 1 hour of snowmobiling is included: The Express Activity Tour and the Pearl Tour.

The Pearl Tour takes you on the Golden Circle, but with a snowmobiling twist.

This tour allows visitors to get in touch with some of Iceland’s most famous and exciting natural phenomena and add a glacial adventure to it. It takes you to all the must-sees; Þingvellir National Park, Geysir hot spring, Gullfoss (The Golden Waterfall) and then they kick the action into high gear to get even

closer to Iceland’s nature and go for a snowmobiling tour on Langjökull, Iceland’s second largest glacier. If you have a knack for adventure and the need for speed, this day trip offers Iceland’s best and then some. To be the operator of an open motorized vehicle on your way up to the second largest glacier of a volcanic island will introduce you to a feeling to which there is no comparison. Mind you, everybody is allowed to go at their own pace to start with and if you would rather double up with your partner and sit in the back, the experience will still provide you with something to share with your grandchildren.

If you are on a tight schedule while staying in our beautiful country, the Express Activity Tour might be more suitable for you. It takes you to Langjökull glacier or a snow area in the mountains.

Once there, you will embark upon an exhilarating one-hour snowmobiling tour across endless white fields of snow. This is a great way to combine the experience of some awe-inspiring scenery and adrenaline-filled activities.

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Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

For the Mountaineers, safety is important, so just remember to bring your driver’s licence. Everyone engaged in their activity service operations have extensive experience in the tourism industry and in activity operations and the strictest safety standards are always employed. All participants are provided with necessary gear like warm overalls, helmets, boots and gloves.

THAT’S JUST THE BEGINNING...

The Mountaineers offer a wide variety of tours including jeep excursions, combinations with other activities and more! In addition to the Pearl Tour and the Express Activity Tour, there is, for instance, the Þórsmörk & the South Coast which takes you, as the name implies, to the south coast of Iceland and to Þórsmörk. On the way you will see the waterfall Seljalandsfoss, before heading north to the highlands of Þórsmörk—a virtually untouched wilderness of magnificent mountains and unbridged rivers. It’s a wild ride!

The Northern Lights Hunt takes you in the comfort of a super jeep to hunt for the northern lights, wherever they may be seen. The agile trucks can go where most other vehicles can’t, and the drivers are experienced and adept at finding the best places to see the lights. With the Northern Lights and Snowmobiling at the Top of the World, you can combine the best of both, riding your vehicle across the milky white pastures in the dead of night while the Aurora Borealis play up above.

This is all in addition to a myriad of day tours like the Monster Quest, which takes you to sites connected to legends and folklore, Quad Biking in the wilderness, and the Glacier & Desert Tour to Western Iceland.

SUPER JEEPS AND TRUCKS The Mountaineers own and operate a number of Super Jeeps and trucks which have been specially modified to get to glaciers and other remote areas by the rugged mountain tracks of the highlands,

inaccessible by normal cars. Their Super Jeeps have extra-large tires, 38 to 44 inches, so they can get their guests to areas that no other vehicles can.

All the Mountaineers’ Jeeps have radio transceivers for communication between cars and a GPS Satellite Navigation System so whether you want to go on a scheduled trip or design your own Icelandic adventure, you are in good hands. The Mountaineers recently upgraded a large part of their truck fleet to “super luxury”. They have a new 8X8 and a 10X10 truck, both specially designed based on the Mountaineers’ extensive experience of Iceland’s mountain roads, and equipped with very most comfortable seats, heat management, speaker system, wi-fi and the very cutting edge of safety equipment. They are especially adapted to Icelandic conditions, capable of going where buses can’t go, and perfect for a group of adventurers, family reunions, bachelor parties.

The 8X8 Luxury Super Jeep seats 49 people and is specially made out of a MAN-truck’s 460 horsepower engine and driver’s compartment, the chassis of a German army truck and the passenger

We’ll take you there!

space of a bus. It is 14 meters (45 ft) long, 3.8 meters (12 ft.) tall, 2.5 meters (8 ft.) wide and it drives on 58 inch tires, has integrated guidance, and facilities for serving soup and coffee. The custom built 10X10 truck is made of the driver’s compartment and chassis of a GINAF 10X10 truck, and a DAF bus. It measures 13.6 meters long (44 ft.), 3.8 meters tall (12 ft.) and 2.55 meters (8 ft.) wide, drives on 54 inch tires, is powered by a 480 horsepower MAN engine and has allwheel-drive. They are about the largest conceivable street-legal vehicles you could possibly fashion in Iceland and they can get to some amazing places you wouldn’t dream of going in a normal car.

We definitely recommend the Mountaineers for anyone who is looking to take a step out of ordinary life, and experience the majestic Icelandic nature up close.

Mountaineers of Iceland Skútuvogur 12e, 104 Reykjaík Tel: +354 580 9900 www.mountaineers.is Reykjavik Excursions | 39

VATN AJÖKU L S ÞJ ÓÐ GARÐ U R NAT ION AL PARK

We are proud to welcome you to Vatnajökull National Park!

Vatnajökull National Park is Iceland’s newest protected area, established in 2008.

With a total area of roughly 13.950 km2 it is by far the largest national park in Iceland as well as in Western Europe.

Gljúfrastofa

Key features of the park are the ice cap of the Vatnajökull Glacier (8,200 km2) and several highly active volcanic systems within and outside the ice cap.

The interplay of ice and fire is the single most important force in shaping the nature of the park. As a result, one can find in one place an unparalleled range of volcanic-, geothermal- and other landscape features.

We offer information at our three Visitor Centres, Gljúfrastofa, Snæfellsstofa and Skaftafellsstofa. Information Centres are situated at Kirkjubæjarklaustur and Höfn. More information at our website www.vjp.is

GLJÚFRASTOFA

Húsa- Ásbyrgi vík Hljóðaklettar

Ísafjörður

Snæfellsstofa

Gamlabúð

Dettifoss

Egilsstaðir

SNÆFELLSSTOFA

Askja Snæfellsnes

©Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson

Skaftafellsstofa

Hvannalindir Snæfell

Kverkfjöll Nýidalur

GAMLABÚÐ Höfn

Jökulheimar Eldgjá Laki Kirkjubæjarklaustur

Vík

Skaftafell

Heinaberg

SKAFTAFELLSSTOFA SKAFTÁRSTOFA

Skaftárstofa

©Guðmundur Ögmundsson

©Guðmundur Ögmundsson

Dettifoss

© Skarphéðinn G. Þórisson

Svartifoss

©Regína Hreinsdóttir

©Guðmundur Ögmundsson

Hiking Geldingafell, Snæfell in the distance

Morsárdalur

©Einar Ragnar Sigurðsson

Langisjór

For more information on Vatnajokull National Park, please visit our website www.vjp.is

PORT hönnun

Askja and Lake Öskjuvatn

How to Connect to Iceland’s Viking Past in Five Easy Steps

What is the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Iceland? Björk, volcanic eruptions and heaps of snow? Well, you wouldn’t be too far off, but what about the Vikings?

GET IN TOUCH WITH THE OLD NORSE RELIGION

at the age of three and his poetry even saved him from execution at one point.

These days, people are more likely to recognise Thor, Odin and Loki as characters from a Marvel movie, but we had them first!

The Norse gods who inspired the comics were not only the gods of the first settlers to Iceland, they also have a thriving group of believers today keeping the old customs alive.

Also, even if you don’t believe in the Norse gods, the stories of their escapades are always entertaining!

In these modern times, fighting, raping, and pillaging is heavily discouraged, but writing poetry is very much encouraged, so in order to get in touch with your inner Viking, find a quill and some calf skin and get scribbling!

FEED A RAVEN Ravens have a special spot in Iceland’s mythology and folklore. Likely stemming from Odin’s special connection to his ravens, Huginn and Muninn, Icelanders have always had respect for the raven. Icelandic superstition states that feeding a raven scraps during winter can be a good insurance scheme. In many stories, ravens repay farmers by warning them of impending avalanches or other natural disasters.

WRITE A POEM! Icelandic Vikings weren’t just known for violence, but also their poetry. In fact, their lyrical skills were no less revered than skills on the battlefield as you can plainly see in the saga of Egill, son of Skallagrímur. An antihero if there ever was one, Egill wrote his first poem

TAKE A LOOK AT WHAT’S LEFT It’s been a long time since the Viking times but there are still some remnants of that time visible in Iceland. Museums in Iceland contain relics from the Viking past, swords and bones for example, and you can even take a look at the ruins of a Viking longhouse in the oldest part of Reykjavík. However, the most important treasures from the Viking age are not jewels or buildings, but the manuscripts, revealing the history of the Viking settlers here in Iceland.

HEAD OVER TO THE VIKING VILLAGE What better way to get in touch with your inner Viking than to eat like a Viking, drink like a Viking and sleep like a Viking!

The Viking village in Hafnarfjörður has been keeping the Viking spirit alive for the past couple of decades and shows no signs of stopping. They have the only Viking themed restaurant in the Reykjavík area. Their Viking feasts are not to be missed and in January,

they even serve a classic Icelandic Þorrablót (a feast of traditional Icelandic food)! To cap it all off, the restaurant has live entertainment almost every night!

The accommodation is lovely as well and a great way to immerse yourself in the Viking culture. Both the hotel rooms and the Viking cottages are designed to evoke the spirit of the Vikings without sacrificing any modern conveniences. You’ll sleep like a baby and hopefully dream of an age gone by, when the Vikings roamed the land.

The Viking Village The Fisherman’s Village 42 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Strandgata 55, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 565 1213 | www.vikingvillage.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

The Icelandic Horse A Faithful Servant and a Loyal Companion

One of Iceland’s biggest claims to fame (aside from Björk, of course) is the Icelandic horse. Short, stout and shaggy, you’d be forgiven for thinking them unimpressive (but not really, no one disrespects the Icelandic horse!) but you’d be wrong.

His nickname through the ages has been þarfasti þjónninn (the most needed servant) and his importance in the farming society, especially in the ages before the arrival of the car, can hardly be overestimated.

While his farming duties have lessened with the change of times and invention of the motor car, there are still plenty of horses in Iceland and riding for pleasure is a very popular hobby, especially since the Icelandic horse has so many qualities that make it an exceptionally good riding breed.

have to fear predators or reptilians. This made for natural selection that promotes intellect over flight instincts. Icelandic horses aren’t skittish, they are attentive and think about every step they take. This makes them a companion on a ride, instead of just a mode of transportation to be controlled.

IT’S A VIKING HORSE

THEY KNOW MORE THAN OTHER HORSES

As you’ve probably noticed, Iceland is an island, so transporting a horse to Iceland is a relatively big deal, especially if all you had was a sailboat. When the Vikings were settling Iceland more than a thousand years ago, they brought horses because they needed them, but when they had enough horses, it made much more sense to breed their own rather than keep importing. Later on, importing horses was actually banned because the Icelandic breed was susceptible to foreign diseases. It wasn’t just one specific breed to begin with, but since the 11th century, they’ve been bred in isolation and the result is known as the Icelandic horse.

The Icelandic breed has retained some qualities other breeds have lost, as well as developed in a different way because of the unique conditions.

THEY’RE SMART AND TOUGH Icelandic horses had to survive all kinds of weather and all kinds of terrain with their riders but since Iceland doesn’t have a particularly rich native fauna, they didn’t

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Icelandic horses have the ability to learn more gaits than other horses. Some horses have five gaits, including a flying pace where all legs leave the ground at once and a gait known only to Icelandic horses; the tölt. Tölt is valued for its smoothness and is ideal for traversing Iceland’s rocky terrain. Riding an Icelandic horse is a bit different from riding other horses as the Icelandic horse is more intelligent than many other breeds. Instead of the rider controlling the horse and the ride, it’s much more of a companionship.

WANT TO TAKE A RIDE? Luckily for you, it’s easy to book a riding tour in Iceland. Feel like riding through lava fields on a day tour or spending up to ten days riding through the magnificent landscapes Iceland has to offer, volcanic deserts, glaciers, and waterfalls? Check out Íshestar! Íshestar is a 30-year-old company and one of the most established horse rentals in Iceland. They provide scheduled day tours, as well as longer trips with airport transfer,

full board and accommodation. With first class facilities just outside Reykjavík, they offer endless possibilities for riding tours, suited for both experienced riders as well as novices.

Íshestar Sörlaskeið 26, 221 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 555 7000 | www.ishestar.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

WWW.SEAFOODGRILL.IS — TEL: +354 571 1100 SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 14 - 101 REYKJAVÍK

A Paradise off the Beaten Track Reykjavík may be a small city, but downtown can still get a little crowded. Most of the time that can be sort of nice, but sometimes you just need a little change of pace, a chance to get out of the city.

Actually leaving the city is not always easy for time- or weather-related reasons but luckily, there are parts of Reykjavík that will soothe your need for nature and a calm environment just fine, leaving you revitalised on your return. As much as I love the many lovely restaurants downtown, coming to Nauthóll always feels like a special treat.

Just off Reykjavík’s beach (geothermally heated), in an unassuming building blending in with the nature around it, lies Nauthóll bistro. While the restaurants in the city centre are mostly superb, this hidden gem, outside the bustle of Laugavegur is a refreshing change of pace and coming there always feels like you’ve stumbled upon a secret oasis.

why, for me at least, the cherry on top of the eating experience is the fact that the restaurant is dedicated to being as naturefriendly and green as possible in all stages of their operation. In 2012 they even qualified for the Nordic eco label the Swan. The label is awarded to companies that have proved that they do everything in their power to minimise their effect on the environment.

As you enter the modern, Scandinavianlooking building, you’re greeted with a gorgeous view of the beach and surrounding nature through the large windows, as well as a beautiful natural light. The large windows are perfect for admiring a starry winter sky and if you’re lucky, you can pop out to the veranda to see some Northern Lights.

Now, all the style and environmental heroism in the world wouldn’t be enough for me to like, let alone love, a restaurant if the food wasn’t up to par. Luckily, the chefs of Nauthóll know their stuff. The food matches the surroundings perfectly, making Nauthóll a great place for lunch, an afternoon coffee or a dinner with friends or a special someone.

Just like the building itself, the interior décor, the tableware, even the food itself is all served in a beautifully simple style. The clean, clear lines of the restaurant itself, harmonise beautifully with the cuisine and come together to create an experience that is the height of Scandinavian style, with a nod to the uniquely Icelandic aesthetic (look for the lopapeysa-patterned staff uniforms, for example).

It’s easy to feel a strong connection to nature while spending time at Nauthóll, which is

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The hardest thing about a visit to Nauthóll is leaving the tranquil environment and heading back to the city. I manage, barely, but will look forward to many more visits like this to Nauthóll this winter.

Nauthóll Bistro Nauthólsvegi 106, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 599 6660 www.nautholl.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

All the Icelandic you need

IN CASE OF EMERGENCIES INQUISITIVE ADVERBS Where Hvar (kvar) When Hvenær (kvenar)

POLITE PLEASANTRIES

How are you Hvað segirðu gott? (kvath say-ear-thuh got?)

Fine, and you?

Allt gott, en þú? (alt got, ann thoo?)

Goodbye Bless

How Hvernig (kverr-neag)

Excuse me Afsakið (aff – sag- eeth)

Stop it hættu (height-uh)

NUMBERS

Good morning Góðan daginn (go-than die-inn)

What Hvað (kvath)

Why Hvers vegna (kvars veg-nah)

Help hjálp (hyowlp)

Please No word for that in Icelandic

My name is... Ég heiti … (yegh hey-tee …)

I would like Ég ætla að fá (yegh ight-lah ath fow)

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 100 1000

Einn (Itn) Tveir (tway-r) Þrír (threer) Fjórir (fyoh-rear) Fimm (feem) Sex (you know how this one goes) Sjö (syuh) Átta (out-tah) Níu (nee-uh) Tíu (tee-uh) Hundrað (hunt-wrath) Þúsund (thoo-sunt)

SOME USEFUL (AND SOME NOT SO USEFUL) PHRASES I would like to order the dried fish, the horse and for dessert, some skyr.

Where is the nearest ice cream shop/swimming pool/café?

Ég ætla að fá harðfiskinn, hrossið og skyr í eftirrétt.

Hvar er næsta ísbúð/sundlaug/kaffihús?

(yegh ight-lah ath fow hearth-fisc-een, hraws-eeth och skeer ee eff-teer-ryet)

(quar err nice-tah ease-booth /soond-loch/caff-ee-hoos?)

Where can I get some brennivín?

Hvar fæ ég Brennivín? (kvar fy yegh Brenn-ee-veen?)

When does the next bus leave?

Hvenær fer næsti strætó? (kvenar fer nice-tee stry-tow?)

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Excuse me, sir, but I just wanted to compliment you on your magnificent beard!

Afsakið, herra minn, mig langaði bara að hrósa þér fyrir þetta stórkostlega skegg! (aff – sag- eeth, herr-ah meen, meeg lan-gah-thee bar-ah ath hrose-ah thyer feer-eer that-ah store-cost-leg-ah scag) Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

5 0 m i ni atu r e e s s ays on th e q u i r k s a n d f oi b les of t h e i c ela n di c peop l e

Get to know the Icelanders

Iceland from the air

Helo, the Helicopter Service of Iceland, specialises in tourist flights and is based at the Reykjavik Airport, in central Reykjavik. Helo operates a Bell 407 helicopter which is specifically designed for sightseeing and photo flights.

It is modified with oversized windows from floor to ceiling and offers increased cabin space for comfort. Furthermore, Bell 407 is known for its outstanding performance and safety, so flying with Helo is both fun and safe. When I got the chance to take a ride with them, I once again felt a burst of gratitude for my job before very enthusiastically agreeing to the task.

A BUBBLE IN THE SKY It was a cold, crisp autumn day when I went on my first helicopter ride, bright and sunny with visibility as far as the eye could see. I couldn’t have asked for a better day. The pilot at Helo greeted us at Reykjavik Airport and told me that I would get to sit in the front, which made me both extremely excited and nervous. Their brand new helicopter is designed so that the passenger feels like he is sitting in a bubble; it has transparent shielding all the way down the front and under your

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feet! The sliding doors on the sides made quite an impression on the photographers travelling with us and the pilot was nice enough to try to explain to me his brand new Garmin 1000 GPS monster machine.

CAN’T STOP SMILING Then we were off. We climbed up from the airport and slowly moved northeast over central Reykjavík and made our way to Þingvellir via Mosfellsdalur. Now, I’m no stranger to flying in airplanes, both big and small, but this was something else. When we were over Þingvellir, the lake shining in the afternoon sun, I just could not stop smiling.

There was light snow over the land so I could clearly see Almannagjá crevice, where the Eurasian and American tectonic plates have been pulling apart since the beginning of time (well, almost). It takes a lot to make me feel small and insignificant but this was it.

From Þingvellir we moved south over the lake and into a mountainous area called Hengill, a very active geothermal area. There it became apparent how different it is to examine Iceland from a helicopter rather than an airplane because the helicopter can stay still.

Staying still in mid-air next to a geothermal hot spring is not something I do every day. It

was difficult to decide whether to go crazy on the camera or to sit there and enjoy the moment without distractions. Others can do what they want, I chose the latter.

From Hengill we started heading north towards Reykjavik again. The sun was getting ready to go down in the west, the sky was showing all the colours of the rainbow and when I saw Snæfellsjökull glacier towering over his peninsula straight ahead, I wanted to scream with delight. I refrained, as there were other people on the helicopter, but it should give you an idea how magnificent this was.

CAN WE GO AGAIN? I don’t think I’ve ever done anything as exhilarating as this. After landing, I felt giddy like a child and felt the strangest urge to pull on the pilot's jacket and say: “Can we go again? Please? Can we?”. Instead, I promised myself that I would use helicopters more in my future travels. This is definitely the way to seek new adventures. Life is just too short not to.

Helo - Helicopter Service of Iceland Mörkinni 31, 108 Reykjavík Tel: +354 561 6100 | www.helo.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Feel like sharing?

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Buy a starter pack at various retailers around the country.

With our extensive 3G/4G network around the country it’s easy to share your adventures in Iceland with your friends and family at home with your friends and family at home on any mobile device.

• SIM card in all sizes • Initial credit • Voice • SMS • Data • Top-up as you go

Síminn – your connection to home siminn.is/prepaid

Kolabrautin is on 4th floor Harpa

Reservations

+354 519 9700 info@kolabrautin.is www.kolabrautin.is

For a special evening with a view like no other A dinner at the elevated fourth floor of Harpa concert hall is a destination in itself. Relax and enjoy the best Icelandic produce complemented with a spectacular panoramic view of ReykjavĂ­k and the surrounding horizon.

The History of Iceland in 10 Short Steps

16-18 MILLION YEARS AGO: THE FORMATION OF ICELAND Iceland lies on the intersection of the American and Eurasian tectonic plates.

When they started drifting apart, around 16 million years ago, it caused a major volcanic eruption, resulting in the creation of Iceland!

Even today, the island still sits on a volcanic hotspot, creatively named, ‘The Iceland Plume’ - resulting in a multitude of earthquakes every year and volcanic eruptions every few years as well.

871 AD: THE SETTLEMENT OF ICELAND A Norwegian named Ingólfur Arnarsson killed a man and was exiled from his home country. He sailed to a legendary land in the west with two ships. People from the Nordics engaged in a massive land grab in this uninhabited country, taking with them Irish slaves, resulting in a Norse-Celtic mix of genes in Iceland.

Thanks to the almost obsessive fixation of early Icelanders with genealogy, most modern Icelanders can still trace their family lines back to this time. As a matter of fact, Icelanders can look up their entire family history on a single website, and they even have an app called Íslendingabók that makes sure they don’t date their (close) relatives.

930 AD: PARLIAMENT ESTABLISHED Being a land of renegades and runaways with no king, some system of government had to be instituted. The people of Iceland went ahead and created Alþing (all-thingee), the oldest democratic parliament that still exists today. In each area there was a chieftain (Goði), a political and religious leader. Every summer, all the chieftains would meet at Þingvellir (Parliament Fields) to discuss laws and settle disputes. Every year, the law speaker, standing on top of the Law Rock, would say a third of the law, completely from memory. This way, the whole law was heard every three years.

Iceland is a proud nation with a rich history. From the world’s oldest democratic parliament, to an economic crash of unprecedented size, Icelanders have a lot to boast about, and they‘re usually not shy to do so.

Here we present, for the first time ever, the complete, not-reallyunabridged History of Iceland, in just 10 short items. This is your unique chance to read up on major events in the history of Iceland, without having to sift through thousands of pages.

Now...Let‘s start at the very beginning.

We’ll take you there!

The law was later written down in the book Grágás, which still exists today. Contained therein are practical laws, such as the penalty for your pet polar bear killing someone.

The parliament functions to this day, uninterrupted aside from a period of 45 years from 1800 to 1845.

1000 AD: CONVERSION TO CHRISTIANITY, DISCOVERY OF AMERICA Until the tenth century, the predominant religion in Iceland was Ásatrú, the worship of the Norse gods, Óðinn, Þór and the like.

In the 980’s Christian missionaries started spreading the faith, leading to violent confrontations. The two factions asked

Reykjavik Excursions | 53

Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði Þorkelsson to mediate. He lay under a bear hide for a day and a night eventually coming to the conclusion that Iceland should be a Christian country. However, worshipping the old gods was allowed as long as you didn’t do it in public!

Iceland remained Roman Catholic until 1540, when it converted to Lutheran Protestantism.

The Catholic bishops Jón Arason and Ögmundur Pálsson violently opposed the reformation. That opposition came to an abrupt end with the beheading of Jón Arason in 1550.

The year 1000 is also when Leif ‘The Lucky’ Ericson discovered America, or ‘Wine-land’ as he called it. He was planning on sailing to Greenland, but was blown off course to the west, where he saw land. He later sailed there and attempted to settle, but gave it up after conflicts with the locals.

These and other stories are written down in the sagas of the Icelanders, an extensive body of 13th century writings.

1262 AD: ICELAND SUBMITS TO NORWAY In the years leading up to 1262, the Icelandic chieftains gradually became more and more powerful, until the whole country was in a state of constant civil war between 7

powerful clans. In order to end to the war, the leaders submitted peacefully to Haakon IV, king of Norway. The story is preserved in saga of the Sturlungs, written down as the events were taking place or shortly after.

Later, in the 14th century, the Kingdoms of Norway, Denmark and Sweden became one kingdom, and when they split up again Iceland somehow wound up under Danish rule. Even today Icelanders are confused and even a little sore about the whole situation.

1602: MONOPOLY (NOT THE FUN KIND) In the 1500s, English and German fishermen and traders set up posts in Iceland and traded with the Icelanders. Seeing a mutually beneficial situation which brought prosperity to his subjects, Christian IV King of Denmark naturally decided he wasn’t having it. He granted exclusive rights to trade in Iceland to certain merchants. It is hard to overstate how devastating this decision was. The prices were fixed and the system led to economic stagnation in Iceland until the monopoly was abolished in 1786.

THE 1750S: THE ENLIGHTENMENT AND THE BIRTH OF REYKJAVÍK Until the middle of the 1750s, Reykjavík was just a single farm, and Iceland had no towns or villages of any kind. Sheriff Skúli Magnússon was a man of the enlightenment.

He picked Reykjavík to become the centre of modernization, and pioneered the building of wool workshop buildings, one of which still stands, on Aðalstræti 10. This marked the beginning of Iceland’s rise out of the dark ages.

1845 AD: THE RE-ESTABLISHMENT OF THE PARLIAMENT AND THE INDEPENDENCE MOVEMENT The enlightenment came to Iceland, and with it, nationalism. Chief among the Icelandic independence campaigners was Jón Sigurðsson, whose birthday, June

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17th, was later chosen as the Icelandic Independence day. The movement led to the re-establishment of the Icelandic parliament as an advisory body to the king in 1845.

This was followed by home rule in 1905, sovereignty in 1918 and independence in 1944, when Denmark was too busy being invaded by Germany to do much about it.

20TH CENTURY: THE WORLD WARS AND MODERNIZATION Industry and urbanization was growing, but Iceland had quite a lot of catching up to do. 1900-1910 saw such novelties as electricity, the first car and the first trawler, which marked the beginning of the stillimportant fishing industry. In the world wars, selling products to the allies and servicing the American occupying force brought an economic boom and cultural influence, such as TV and jazz. This catapulted Iceland into the 20th century and still today the Icelandic culture has an incredible fascination for new and foreign things, technology and culture.

21ST CENTURY: CRASH AND MIRACULOUS RECOVERY Since the 1950s, Iceland’s economy was characterized by rather high inflation. In the late 1990s, the commercial banking system was privatized and the law was changed to ease restrictions on trade. Following an incredible growth in everything financial, the bubble finally burst in a spectacular manner, in October 2008. The currency of Iceland, the Króna, fell by 50% overnight. People lost their jobs, their houses, and their livelihood and finally to top it all, McDonalds left the country.

Since then, Iceland has caught the attention of the international community because of how quickly the economy has recovered.

Industry is booming (especially the tourism industry), unemployment is low and wages and prices are rising again.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

A RARE, ONCE-INA-LIFETIME OPPORTUNITY Around, on and deep within the awesome Langjökull ice gap glacier.

Into the Glacier offers various tours to the World's largest ice tunnel. The ice tunnel and caves are located high on Iceland’s second largest glacier, Langjökull.

Daily departures from Klaki base camp, Húsafell center and from Reykjavik.

You can choose from various tours and book online at www.intotheglacier.is Tel: +354 578-2550

Got Questions?

What’s On has the Answers!

Travelling to an unknown place is one of the most exciting things you can do. Witnessing a culture and nature you’ve never experienced before is a truly profound experience. It also poses some difficulties. If you don’t know what you’re going into, you can end up missing the experience of a lifetime. So what can you do about it? The best solution is to ask a local. Even if you’ve been here before, it never hurts to get some good advice, maybe there’s something you’ve missed on your earlier trips. Whether you’re an Iceland n00b or a veteran, stop by the What’s On office at Laugavegur 5 and get some advice.

WHAT SHOULD I EAT? One of the most difficult questions when you’re in a strange land is what to eat. It’s easy to fall back on the chain restaurants you recognise from back home but you’d be missing out on trying Iceland’s excellent seafood and the many restaurants that serve it.

The What’s On staff know all the best places around town to eat at and can point you in the right direction according to your preferences. Want to try puffin, whale, horse or langoustine? They know the best places to do that too!

WHAT SHOULD I DO WHILE I’M HERE? Not only do the staff at What’s on know all the most beautiful spots in Iceland, they also know the easiest ways to get there as well! If you want to take a tour, rent a car, or take the bus, the staff at What’s on will help you find your way.

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OKAY, BUT WHAT SHOULD I DO TONIGHT? Reykjavík is a vibrant city with a plenty of good music (both high- and lowbrow), art and other events. There’s always something going on and the people at What’s On stay up to date on the city’s event schedule. The office at Laugavegur 5 has an event calendar that’s updated every day and the What’s On website has an even more detailed event calendar. You should have no problem finding out where Iceland’s hottest bands are playing or when there are theatre shows in English!

THAT SOUNDS GREAT, CAN THEY JUST TELL ME WHAT TO DO FOR MY ENTIRE STAY HERE? Yes, they can! If you’d like, the staff at What’s On can prepare a schedule for your whole stay here and book it for you.

Just tell them what you’d like to do (or let them tell you what you should do) and you don’t have to worry about a thing for the rest of your stay.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

I DON’T REALLY NEED TO GO ON ANY TOURS, I’D JUST LIKE TO KNOW WHERE THE NEAREST CURRENCY EXCHANGE/ SUPERMARKET/SWIMMING POOL IS Well, if you’d stop by the What’s On, they’ll not only tell you that the easiest and cheapest way to exchange money in Iceland is to go to a bank. There’s one right at the airport on your way in so the process should be quick and painless. If you need a bank in the city, they’ll also happily point you towards the nearest bank, supermarket and/or swimming pool.

I JUST WANT TO KNOW HOW I SHOULD BEHAVE WHILE I’M HERE. SHOULD I TIP IN RESTAURANTS? WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO GO TO A BAR? HOW DO I GREET PEOPLE? Of course the good people at What’s On have the answers to this as well! What’s more, they’d be delighted to share their knowledge (if you’re curious, the answers are: you don’t have to, late, and Góðan daginn).

t as te a t e ic G and l e c i e of ultur c d foo

Icelandic Tapas SmakkBarinn

Klapparstígur 38 774 4404 facebook.com/SmakkBarinn

Basically, if you’re looking for information about Iceland or the Icelanders, just come on by the What’s On information office at Laugavegur 5!

What’s On Laugavegur 5, 101 Reykjavík +354 551-3600 | www.whatson.is

ร gisgarรฐur 5, 101 Reykjavik (Old Harbour) www.elding.is

elding@elding.is

+354 519 5000

“

Elding is far and away the best Whale-Watch operator in ReykjavĂ­k.

Outstanding naturalist guides, very friendly and professional staff, comfortable and stable boats and Marine Biologists working on board...

Brilliant! " Mark Carwardine one of the world's most celebrated whale and dolphin experts

Reykjavík Loves the City Card

Reykjavík is a place of exciting possibilities surrounded by incredible landscapes, where countless adventures beckon and a host of natural wonders await. In order to enrich your visit further, the Visit Reykjavík City Card makes it much easier for you to connect with the extraordinary cultural scene and vibrant city life. Here are our suggestions for a day out with the Reykjavík City Card.

FOR THE HISTORY BUFF:

FOR THE ART LOVER:

FOR THE FAMILY:

There’s no better place to start exploring Icelandic history than at the beginning. The Settlement Exhibition features ruins from the 10th century, just a few decades after the first permanent settlement of Iceland.

Start the day off by getting yourself to the National Gallery, down by lake Tjörnin. The museum collection is mainly focused on 19th and 20th century artists but the exhibitions feature Icelandic and international artists alike.

Is there a better way to start a family day out than to watch the reindeers of the Reykjavík Family Park and Zoo eat their breakfast? The Reykjavík zoo doesn’t contain any lions or elephants, but rather common Icelandic barnyard animals as well as Icelandic animals, such as arctic foxes, seals and reindeer. The family park is a great playground with rides.

From there, it’s a short walk to the National Museum, past the old Reykjavík cemetery. The permanent exhibition at the National Gallery titled “The Making of a Nation” offers a sense of the evolution of the Icelandic nation through the centuries.

By now you’ve spent enough time inside a dark museum, it’s time to jump on the bus no. 6 and head to the Árbær Open Air Museum. It’s a collection of historical buildings forming a tiny village. With staff in period costumes performing traditional farming tasks, Árbær will give you a sense of what life in Iceland used to be like.

Finish up a day of immersing yourself in Icelandic history by immersing yourself in one of Reykjavík's thermal pools. They’re usually populated by several generations of Icelanders discussing politics, culture, the news, their cats, and whatever else they can think of.

The Reykjavík Art Museum is located in three separate buildings so now it’s time to choose. Do you head down to Hafnarhús, where modern and experimental art is kept, along with a permanent exhibition of pop artist Erró’s work? Or are you more interested in exhibitions of paintings and sculptures, and a permanent exhibition by one of Iceland’s most celebrated painters, Kjarval, at Kjarvalsstaðir? Perhaps you’d like to get to know the life work of sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson at Ásmundarsafn?

If you chose Hafnarhús, the Reykjavík Museum of Photography is only next door, in the same building as the Reykjavík library. The exhibitions at the museum of photography are a diverse bunch; artistic, historic and journalistic photography all get a chance to adorn the walls of their gallery.

Depending on your interests (and/or seasickness), you could either take the ferry out to Viðey, an island just off Reykjavík or head over to the Árbær Open Air Museum. The old buildings, the staff in period costumes and the toy exhibition are sure to keep the whole family entertained.

After a day of entertainment, there’s nothing better than heading over to your local thermal pool for a spot of relaxing in the hot tub while the kids splash in the pool and play in the waterslide. If you are in Árbær Open Air Museum, hop on bus no. 5 and head to Árbæjarlaug thermal pool.

48

Available for up to 24, 48 or 72 hours and offering great value for money, the City Card gives you free admission to all of Reykjavík’s famous thermal pools, a great many museums, galleries and other attractions, with unlimited travel on Reykjavík buses and the ferry to Viðey Island.

Choose a card that suits your stay: 24, 48 or 72 hours

The City Card also entitles you to discounts at selected shops and restaurants. For more information, check out www.citycard.is.

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The concept of the restaurant is "casual fun dining" and we prepare what we would call a simple honest, "feel good", comfort food, where we take on the classics with a modern twist.

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Diverse menu, great value and a wide selection of cocktails, beers and wines.

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Vegamótastíg | 101 Reykjavík | tel. 511 3040 | www.vegamot.is

A Hundred-year

Adventure!

The neighbourhood down by the old harbour in Reykjavík has been going through a renaissance lately. Mixed in with the hippest restaurants in town and the new boutiques, barely out of the wrapper, are remnants of the fishing industry’s sojourn in the area and veteran companies, lending some gravitas and authenticity to the newcomers.

One of these businesses is Ellingsen, a store selling everything you might need for an outdoor adventure in Iceland. The shop is in a glass building down by the sea but don’t let the modern surface fool you, this business has been around for a while. A hundred years to be exact!

It’s a rare feat these days for a business to have survived a whole century, especially in Iceland where social conditions have changed rapidly in the 20th century. It was a different Reykjavík when Othar Ellingsen – merchant and shipwright – opened his store in 1916. There were only about 90.000 Icelanders and just under 15.000 of them lived in Reykjavík.

Reykjavík was little more than a cluster of houses around the harbour area and the Pond (to put things in perspective; Skólavörðuholt, where Hallgrímskirkja is now, was outside the town limits) and Ellingsen originally sold fishing tackle and other fishing related gear for the fishing industry.

Throughout the years, Ellingsen has moved, with the times, on from selling industrial fishing equipment towards outdoor equipment for individuals.

Ellingsen is not owned by the Ellingsens anymore, but after a brief stint of oil company ownership it has yet again become a family-owned company, and the focus is on a family-friendly

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environment. In fact, Ellingsen is the perfect place to get your family geared up in clothes suitable to the Icelandic weather, from the boots up to hats and everything in between!

LOOKING FOR AN ADVENTURE? Ellingsen still stands in the heart of Reykjavík and despite the society changing almost completely around them, they’ve managed to persevere and adapt for a modern audience while still retaining their identity. They even have a member of staff who has been working there for the past 45 years! Today, Ellingsen sells outdoor equipment for individuals, for any sort of adventure situation that might arise.

Whether you’re looking for a kayak, tools for repairing your bike or just gas canisters for camp cooking, you’ll find them in Ellingsen, the one-stop shop for adventurers.

Ellingsen Fiskislóð 1, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 580 8500 | www.ellingsen.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

WELCOME TO ICELAND'S MOST DIVERSE OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT STORE

FISKISLÓÐ 1

TRYGGVABRAUT 1-3

REYKJAVÍK

AKUREYRI

580-8500

580-8550

A Cup of Coffee and

Something Sweet A cup of coffee needs a sweet treat like a hot dog needs toppings. You could go without, but what would be the point? That’s where the biscuits come in, or kex, as Icelanders call it (originally a Danish bastardisation of the English word “cakes”). Early in the morning, it might be a biscuit served with butter and cheese and in the afternoon, a cream filled biscuit or a chocolate covered one. Whatever the biscuit, chances are it comes from the Frón biscuit factory, which has been making Icelanders favourite biscuits for the past 90 years!

WOULD YOU LIKE A SÆMUNDUR? Imagine this. You’re invited to have a nice cup of coffee with an Icelandic family, you sit down and somebody asks if you would like a bite of a Sæmundur wearing his fancy clothes. Horrified, you turn your looks to the father of the family, who not only isn’t particularly dressed up but also seems to be gently nudging a bowl of biscuits your way. Also, you don’t recall his name being Sæmundur. Confused? Don’t be. A dressed up Sæmundur (Sæmundur í sparifötunum) is simply a nickname for a biscuit, namely the cream-filled vanilla biscuit Kremkex. It gets its name for being just a little bit fancier than the plain workhorse Matarkex, known simply as Sæmundur, after the factory manager at Frón during the middle of the century.

A PURELY GEOMETRICAL BISCUIT RIVALRY Another peculiarity of the Icelandic biscuit culture is the rivalry between Mjólkurkex and Matarkex. Ask any Icelander and they’ll tell you which biscuit they love and which they loathe. The weird thing is, they taste exactly

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the same and are made from the exact same ingredients, the only difference is the shape. Mjólkurkex is square and Matarkex is round. This fact seems to be lost on most Icelanders, who will loudly proclaim one infinitely superior to the other, in flavour, texture, shape and packaging design.

MODERN TIMES Frón is still at it, making the biscuits that have been dipped in Icelanders’ coffee for decades. Mjólkurkex is the best-seller, Icelanders consume 260 tonnes of it every year, but Matarkex, Kremkex and Póló, a chocolate covered coconut biscuit, are popular as well. The factory operates in much the same way it has for the past decades, the same machines they had in the 1970’s stamping the familiar Frón logo into the biscuits. Despite their adherence to traditions, the people of Frón aren’t resting on their laurels. They produce several brands of biscuits in their factory and are continuously coming up with new and fresh takes on the classic biscuit. They’re even experimenting with a jet black biscuit inspired by Icelandic lava!

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

On behalf of the entire crew

WE WELCOME YOU TO JOE & THE JUICE

ARRIVAL HALL AND DEPARTURE HALL AT KEFLAVIK AIRPORT

| KRINGLAN | SMÁRALIND | WORLD CLASS LAUGAR | LAUGAVEGUR

“ZOMG REYKJAVIK HAS A BIG LEBOWSKITHEMED BAR!” Tweeted by @caitlinmoran Followers: 576K – A Journalist for The Times, author, and broadcaster.

Ever seen the 1998 cult classic “The Big Lebowski” by the Coen brothers? Of course you have!

Everybody has. For those of you unfamiliar with the concept, first of all, go watch it, right now. When you’ve done that, you’ll know that it involves Jeff Bridges as the “Dude” Lebowski, who, because of a case of mistaken identity is on a mission to seek reimbursement for a ruined rug and enlists his bowling buddies to help him. In Reykjavík, we now have a bar based on the concept.

YEAH, WELL. THE DUDE ABIDES. Lebowski Bar, on Laugavegur, opened in April 2012 and immediately became a huge hit.

The general idea was to combine a bar with a diner styled grill, furnished in the style of The Big Lebowski.

Lebowski bar has a host of events and activities, such as DJ’s every night and sometimes live performances, the Thursday night Movie-Quiz and every major game and sporting event on the Big Screen. The bar can serve up to 300 people with food and drink in four dining areas so every individual or group can be seated comfortably. Their diner menu offers a variety of Lebowski burgers and milkshakes, such as the classic “The Other Lebowski” (Steak Burger with Bernaise 66 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

sauce), the more health-conscious “Bunny Lebowski” (Chicken Burger with Blue Cheese sauce) or “The Nihilist” (BBQ Chicken Wings).

The crown jewel of the whole establishment, however, is definitely the White Russian Menu, made up purely of Vodka and Kahlua-based cocktails. If the cream-based cocktail isn’t your thing, recently they’ve been greatly adding to their bottled artisan beer menu, as well as their selection of Whiskeys.

the guitar player serving ZZ Top’s La Grange with a twist. Needless to say, people could barely sit still in their seats. By the time I saw the bottom of that Tuborg draft glass, people were dancing to The Doors and my instinct told me to pick up a White Russian for me and my date, who had been talking to some EVE online game conference guests as I made notes in my head about the brilliant atmosphere.

THAT RUG REALLY TIED THE ROOM TOGETHER

HEY, CAREFUL, MAN, THERE’S A BEVERAGE HERE!

The location of Lebowski Bar, along with its brilliant concept design, is a big contributor to its success. Laugavegur is the main shopping and bar-hopping street in Reykjavik. Virtually everybody goes there at one time or another, both locals and visitors. Lebowski Bar has through its location been both frequented by regulars and attended by passers-by and foreign visitors equally.

Among the previously named EVE Online conference guests, I spotted a pair of Icelandic actresses, having what I can only imagine being a glass of milk (as opposed to heavy cream and vodka) considering their itsy bitsy waistlines. Also present was an Icelandic MMA fighter (the only one we have come to think about it) and a group of college students who looked like they were really enjoying the music. The atmosphere in Lebowski Bar does not ask for age, gender, if you are wearing a watch or if you like bowling at all. It only asks that you loosen up, have a beverage or two and maybe a burger. Most important is that you have fun. Walking out of the front door I wondered how on earth such a wide group of people could find themselves sitting down and having such fun in the same place. But if the Dude abides, so should we.

I checked out Lebowski bar on a Thursday night. I had been there several times before on a weekend, but as these former visits mostly consisted of arriving tipsy and leaving drunk, I never wrote any reviews (although I should highly commend the bar staff for great cocktails) so I decided to behave like an adult, see the band that evening and have a beer. Having shown up early I got a seat between the bar and the band. Starting with a Tuborg Classic draft, I waited for the band to play their tunes and boy, was I in for a treat. The young keyboard player (a 19-year-old prodigy) started the night off with Booker T & MG’s Green Onions, followed by

Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20a, 101 Reykjavík +354 552 2300 | www.lebowski.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

COME AND MEET

THE ICELANDIC HORSE IN PERSON

The concept of the restaurant is "casual fun dining" and we prepare what we would call a simple honest, "feel good", comfort food, where we take on the classics with a modern twist.

HORSE THEATER - RESTAURANT SHOP - VISIT THE STABLES At Iceland’s only horse park, Fákasel, visitors can meet the unique Icelandic horse, either at the stables or the daily horse theatre show.

Restaurant serves fresh Icelandic food and is open daily from 10am to 10pm.

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menu, Kitchen Diverse great value and a wide selection Bar of cocktails, beers GEOTHERMAL BATHS - NATURAL STEAM BATHS and wines.

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COMPLETING THE GOLDEN CIRCLE

Laugav

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Geothermal Baths LAUGARVATN FONTANA • HVERABRAUT 1 • 840 LAUGARVATN Vegamótastíg | 101 Reykjavík | tel. 511 3040 | www.vegamot.is • TEL: +354 486 1400 • www.fontana.is

ICELANDIC

BINGO

You can‘t leave Iceland until you‘ve seen...

NORTHERN LIGHTS

A GLACIER

AN ICELANDER WEARING A LOPAPEYSA

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM

BLACK SAND BEACHES

A BEARDED GUY DOWNTOWN

THE GOLDEN CIRCLE

A COLOURFUL HOUSE CLAD WITH CORRUGATED IRON

LAVA FIELDS

A SEAFOOD DISH, PREFERABLY ON YOUR OWN PLATE

FREE

A QUEUE IN FRONT OF THE FAMOUS HOT DOG STAND

A SHEEP‘S HEAD

THE SOUTH COAST

A STATUE OF AN OLD POLITICIAN

AN ICELANDER DRINKING COFFEE

A WATERFALL

A GEOTHERMAL SWIMMING POOL

AN ICELANDIC BAND IN CONCERT

A WHALE

THE HARPA CONCERT HALL

THE CITY POND

THE WEST COAST

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HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA

MOUNTAINS

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

ENJOYING THE LARGEST JACUZZI IN THE WORLD: PRICELESS Enjoy your stay in Iceland, where you are as welcome as your MasterCard®

What does it take to make an

Icelandic Lopapeysa Puffins, volcanoes, Northern Lights and blond people in lopapeysas. That’s a stereotypical image of Iceland, but for the most part, it’s actually pretty accurate, even if the blond part tends to be bottled. Almost everyone has a lopapeysa, the woollen sweater with the circular pattern around the shoulders. It’s really no wonder, they’re warm, light, pretty and, of course, are as quintessentially Icelandic as it gets. Add to that the fact that many sweaters are knitted by a loving relative and it’s no wonder that Icelanders love their lopapeysas.

Lopapeysas are important to Icelanders, so much so in fact that you’d be forgiven for assuming they’re an ancient tradition, brought over by the Vikings in a time when the years hadn’t reached quadruple digits. In fact, there are probably plenty of Icelanders who share that misconception. The truth is that while lopapeysas are knitted from the wool of Icelandic sheep, who’ve been bred in isolation since settlement times, the sweaters, made from a certain type of unspun wool, with their distinctive patterns and simple knitting style, have only been produced in this way since around the middle of the 20th century!

LOPI (THE WOOL) Icelandic wool comes from the fleeces of sheep, just like any other wool. So what is it that makes it so special? The answer is the Icelandic sheep. Since Iceland is an island, after the forefathers of the current resident sheep, the Icelandic sheep has been bred in isolation, retaining some qualities that have been lost elsewhere.

For instance, their fleece consists of two

different layers, made up of different fibres. The outer layer is made up of coarse long hairs that are hardy and almost waterproof, while the inner layer consists of soft warm fibres that keep the sheep warm. When these two types of fibres intertwine, the result is warm, lightweight material, that also happens to be water resistant.

In order for a sweater to qualify as an Icelandic lopapeysa, it must be made from Icelandic wool, specifically lopi (more on that later), be knitted in a certain way and have a specific type of pattern.

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Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

It’s not just the fleece that makes the wool for the lopapeysas different, it’s also the production method. Lopi is unspun wool and for a long time it was only considered a stage in yarn production, an incomplete product, especially since knitting machines can’t use lopi. The airiness of the unspun wool is part of what makes the sweaters so warm, so make sure the sweater you’re getting is 100% lopi.

THE PATTERNS The pattern is the most striking thing about the Icelandic lopapeysas.

Although the sweaters were pioneered only a few decades ago, no one really knows who came up with the design. Some knitting pioneers have been named as the designers but the most prevalent explanation of the lopapeysa is that the design was an organic process that has its roots in the trends and evolving styles of the Icelandic knitting community in the 20th century, borrowing from knitting styles of Greenland, the Faroe Islands and the Hebrides.

There are several classic patterns but knitters also have a creative license, the only requirements are that the sweater has a circular pattern around the shoulders.

Some sweaters have a simple pattern around the waist and wrists as well, but that’s optional. In many cases, the patterns are inspired by traditional Icelandic patterns, Icelandic nature or even folklore.

THE KNITTING STYLE One of the reasons that the sweaters became so popular is that they’re not just pretty and warm, they’re also easy to knit and can be knitted relatively fast.

The sweaters are knitted on circular knitting needles, from the bottom up, and the sleeves are knitted onto the sweater with the pattern. When the sweater has been knitted, the only thing left to do is to hide two ends and sew the armpits shut, making the whole process pleasantly simple.

We’ll take you there!

ICELANDIC ARTISANS The thing about lopapeysas is that because the lopi is unspun, it’s very difficult to knit it in machines so that it still retains all of its qualities that make it what it is. That’s why the lopapeysa is traditionally knitted by hand. Many Icelandic knitters knitted lopapeysas for sale and export and in 1977, the Handknitting Association of Iceland was founded. By marketing and selling the lopapeysas themselves, the knitters could have more control over the sales of their products and ensure that only the highest quality garments were being sold as the Icelandic lopapeysa. The knitters of the Handknitting Association are still at it, selling their beautiful wares

out of their Skólavörðustígur 19 store, their Laugavegur 53b location as well as online (www.handknit.is). They have a pretty impressive selection of the woollen goods in stock, but you can also have things custom made in a short period of time. If you’re interested in trying your hand at knitting a lopapeysa yourself, the store at Skólavörðustígur has everything you might need for that as well, needles, patterns, and most importantly, Lopi.

Handknitting Association Skólavörðustígur 19, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 1890 www.handknit.is Reykjavik Excursions | 71

Harpa Concert Hall sinfonia.is harpa.is (+354) 528 50 50

Main sponsor:

@icelandsymphony / #sinfo

Northern Lights

Photography

Northern Lights season is upon us and that means that we want to capture those awesome, spectacular lights on film—or the modern digital equivalent. Now, you might wonder, how do I take the best photos of the Northern Lights? Despite what you may think, it’s not all Photoshop; the perfect photo of the Northern Lights is within your reach if you just get acquainted with a few of the less used buttons on your camera.

DOS AND DON'TS DO SET YOUR CAMERA TO A LONGER EXPOSURE TIME The Northern Lights are dim, that’s why you can’t see them in the daylight. Setting a longer exposure time gives the camera time to take in more light than it usually would, resulting in brighter lights in your photos!

DON’T STAY IN THE CITY! You can take a photo of the Northern Lights within the city, it’s just that it’s going to be more difficult. Taking a bus tour out of the city is very affordable but taking a superjeep tour will probably get you the best photography experience.

DO BRING A TRIPOD! As the exposure time is longer, it gives you more time to move the camera, resulting in a blurry photo. Steady hands aren’t enough, a stable surface or a tripod are essential!

DON’T GO BY BOAT If your goal is to take photos, that is.

Remember how we talked about tripods earlier and how essential they are? Well, they’re useless if the surface they are standing on keeps moving all the time like a boat does.

DO KNOW...

YOUR APERTURE...

Aperture (the A setting on your camera) controls the depth of field, that is, how much of your photo subject is in focus. It dictates how much light is getting into the lens because you are dictating how “open” the lens is. A low number means that the lens is more open, and thus, more light gets in.

YOUR ISO… ISO is how sensitive you want your camera to be to light. Be careful when increasing it in daily use, since the photos will become grainier as the ISO goes higher. That doesn’t mean you should just set it to 100 and forget about it, the ISO can be a powerful tool, you just need to find what works for each setting.

YOUR SHUTTER SPEED...

Shutter Speed is just how long the lens stays open to take a picture. If the lens is open for a longer time, more light gets in, and you get better exposure.

... AND YOUR RAW FORMAT If your camera allows you to do it, shoot in RAW format, not JPEG. When shooting in JPEG, the camera automatically edits your

photo so you can use it right away, and discards "information" it doesn't use. That information are pixels that the camera sensor caught which you might want to use. The downside is that you will need to edit your files manually in PhotoShop, Lightroom or other software, but when you realise just how much of the Northern Lights you actually caught, you will be satisfied.

YOUR FIRST NORTHERN LIGHTS PHOTO! A. Let’s start by putting the file setting to RAW, if that is a possibility on your camera.

B. Set the aperture setting on low, so you get as much light in your lens as you can.

C. Set the ISO to a manual setting.

Start with 800 ISO and see if you like the outcome. If you don’t, try adjusting it till you get what you’re looking for.

D. Try setting the shutter speed to 10 seconds at first and see what you get. If you like the outcome, go with it, but I often take Northern Light photos at around 30 seconds.

E. If 30 seconds isn’t giving you enough Northern Lights, try increasing the ISO to 1600—even up to 3200, if you’re feeling lucky.

F. Just try different setting combinations and see what you like!

We’ll take you there!

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RAW file; Aperture: 3,5; ISO 1600; Shutter speed: 19 sec

The same photo, edited in Adobe Lightroom.

EXTRA TIPS! DO GET A REMOTE FOR YOUR CAMERA They can be bought both wired and wireless, and some cameras can even hook up to your phone. Using a remote decreases the likelihood of your camera being shaken when you press the shutter release button.

DO FOCUS! Focus is something that’s very important too since you will have to set it to manual. Most lenses allow for manual focus, even though most people never use it. When you are trying to take a photo of lights, and not an object, the autofocus equipment in most cameras won’t work, so you won’t be able to take a photo, period. Set the lens to MF and just crank it up, snap a photo, check if things are in focus, if not, turn the lens the other way.

DON’T RULE OUT USING YOUR PHONE A couple of years ago, I would have told you to forget it, but nowadays, many smartphones are perfectly capable of taking lovely photos of Northern Lights. Most Android phones have a default photo app where you can go to “expert” or “manual” mode, and there are a lot of Camera apps, both for Android and iPhone, that allow you to get more of a DSLR camera feel on your phone.

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Record Number of Passengers Through Keflavík Airport

Winter season numbers rising

Keflavik Airport recently celebrated the five-millionth passenger going through the airport this year. The lucky ones were Leanna Cheecin Lau and Gregory Josiah Lue from the United States. The lucky couple were greeted by the airport staff on their arrival and received flowers, a flight back to Iceland with WOW Air and a meal from gourmet airport restaurant Nord, to mark the occasion. Leanna and Gregory were on their way to Los Angeles after a great vacation in Iceland.

This is the first time that passenger numbers exceed five million at Keflavik Airport, but the airport will have another celebration later this year as the six-millionth passenger within the year will pass through in November.

The airport is having a record number of passengers and forecasts predict that 6.7 million people will travel through the airport in 2016. Winter traffic is also increasing

significantly as the seating capacity for the winter of 2016/2017 has increased by 58% since 2015. Winter tourism is fast growing in Iceland, as a result of well-coordinated marketing efforts of tourism companies and authorities in Iceland, but also because of the growing interest in the famous Aurora Borealis.

KEF will welcome the six-millionth passenger this year in November.

Keflavik International Airport Keflavik Airport, 235 Keflavíkurflugvöllur Tel: +354 425 6000 www.www.kefairport.is 76 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

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The Icelandic

Yule Lads

Stekkjastaur

Sheep-Cote Clod / Dec 12th Stekkjastaur spends most of his time among the humans breaking into the sheep pens.

He keeps trying to suckle the ewes, despite his disability, his two peg legs that make him completely stiff.

The Icelandic Yule Lads, Grýla and Leppalúði’s sons, are a group of 13 mischievous trolls who start arriving in town, one per night, from December 12th until Christmas Eve. In the Iceland of yore, they were an incredible nuisance and brought grief to the general populace, whereas today they’ve morphed into kinder, gentler Yule Lads who bring gifts for kiddies who have been good.

Þvörusleikir

Giljagaur

Spoon Licker / 15th

Gully Gawk / Dec 13th Another fan of dairy products, Giljagaur doesn’t try to go straight to the cow’s udders, but waits until the farm workers are distracted before he swoops in and slurps the froth off the fresh milk.

Stúfur Stubby / Dec 14th

Stúfur is named for his height, or lack thereof. He considers burnt bits of food that get stuck to the pan a particular delicacy and goes so far as to raid kitchens for dirty pans to get his hands on the good stuff.

Þvörusleikir is tall and skinny, and loves wooden spoons. He waits patiently for the work to be finished in the kitchen before he grabs the dirty spoons and licks them.

Pottaskefill Pot Licker / Dec 16th

Like Stúfur, this Yule Lad also likes to lick the remains from the inside of the pots, though he has no interest for burnt remains. His tricks are simple. He knocks at the door, and when the inhabitants rush to see who it is, he sneaks to the kitchen and cleans out the pots.

Askasleikir Bowl Licker / Dec 17th

In the old days, Icelanders ate their food from a lidded wooden bowl called “askur."

This old fellow would creep and snatch the askar whenever they were put aside, licking their insides clean. Since most people have upgraded to plates, he probably has too, but still keeps his name, for old times sake.

Hurðaskellir

We’ll take you there!

Door Slammer / Dec 18th

Skyrgámur

Waking up is never pleasant, and being woken by a loud noice such as a door slamming is even less so. Hurðaskellir thinks this is hilarious and goes through town slamming doors for his own amusement.

For the uninitiated, skyr (pron. skeer) is a delicious dairy product. It's no wonder Skyrgámur is the size of a bull and has the habit of eating other people’s skyr.

Skyr Gobbler / Dec 19th

Bjúgnakrækir

Sausage Swiper / Dec 20th The name really says it all.

Bjúga is a salty, smoked Icelandic sausage, a favourite of Bjúgnakrækir. He loves them so much, he doesn’t mind crawling through soot and smoke to get them.

Reykjavik Excursions | 79

Ketkrókur

Meat Hook / Dec 23rd

Gluggagægir

Window Peeper / Dec 21st Again, the name really says it all. However, it’s important to note that his intentions, although not honourable, are mostly food-related.

He only peeps in windows in order to locate food he could possibly steal.

Some of the Yule Lads are more clever than others.

Ketkrókur, for example, travels with a long stick with a hook at the end, perfect for sticking it down chimneys in order to steal meat, preferably hangikjöt (smoked lamb).

Kertasníkir

Candle Beggar / Dec 24th

Gáttaþefur Door Sniffer / Dec 22nd

Gáttaþefur was from birth blessed with a huge nose, heightened olfactory senses, as well as the ability to never catch a cold. He is partial to laufabrauð, and uses his abnormally large nose to sniff out its hiding places.

One of the few Yule Lads not constantly occupied with food, Kertasníkir instead enjoys stealing candles, preferably from children.

This seems especially mean when you know that in the old days every kid usually got a nice candle at Christmas and sometimes not much else.

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Our Dearest Dairy Product Traditional Icelandic cuisine doesn’t have the best reputation (fermented shark, anyone?) but we’ve still got a few aces up our sleeves, products that are delicious even to the most discerning palates. Skyr (pronounced skeer) is a unique Icelandic dairy product that’s been a staple food in our country for over a thousand years. It is still enjoyed daily by Icelanders, in various shapes and form, renowned for its high protein content and smooth texture.

PROVISIONS OF HISTORY This deliciously healthy snack has been a large part of the Icelandic diet since the first settlers brought it with them around the year 1000. It’s even mentioned in the Icelandic Sagas. The skyr-making process is similar to cheese-making, but the end result is a smooth dairy product with a tangy, slightly sweet taste, reminiscent of Greek yoghurt. Its versatility and nutritional qualities have made this creamy delicacy popular with Icelanders throughout history. It’s available in the classic, unflavoured variety, but the flavoured and sweetened versions are also very popular, especially as a convenient snack.

Skyr’s flavour and texture have always had their fans but, in recent years, skyr has gotten some new followers, thanks to the growing popularity of fitness, body-building

and overall healthy lifestyles. Skyr is not only delicious, it’s high-protein/low-fat combination has made it an indispensable part of any health-oriented Icelander.

A LOW CALORIE BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER AND DESERT. For people who want to restrict their calorie intake but still eat well and maintain a balanced diet, skyr is a natural choice.

Although, mind you, serving it with cream and lots of sugar, like my grandparents prefer it, might put a damper on the dieting aspect of things. Children love it and for most of us, skyr was probably one of the first solid foods we ever tasted.

Speaking of children, I came home from work today, famished as usual, and immediately started rummaging through

the refrigerator for something to ease my suffering. A can of Skyr was what I found, perfect, round, cold, ready to help me survive until dinner time. I opened the can, took one, oh so gratifying, spoonful before leaving the can on the kitchen table to go answer the phone. When I came back (no more than two minutes later) I found my three-year-old son with my spoon in his hand, smiling ear to ear, telling me proudly that he had finished all of “his” food. Bless him.

Unflavoured, unsweetened skyr is a great substitute for mayonnaise, crème fraiche, or yoghurt in cold dips and oven dishes.

FRESH FROM THE ARCTIC This beloved product of ours is made from the best ingredients: milk farmed in the fresh green pastures near the Arctic Circle where the water is pure and nature is unspoilt. The modern day processing technique is 100% natural, based on the original principles, using a thousand-year-old recipe and milk from the same cow breed, the colourful settlement cow. Until a few years ago, Skyr was only available in Iceland. This has changed in recent years since Skyr is now produced in Denmark, Sweden and Norway under licence agreements from Iceland and exported to Finland. Skyr has proven to be liked by Iceland’s neighbours with sales growing. This is really a lovely example of how life runs in circles since the original Icelandic settlers indeed came from Norway, and along with them, in all likelihood, the recipe for what has been the cornerstone of Icelandic diet.

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SÓLEY ORGANICS Wild - Powerful - Pure Throughout the years, people have relied on herbal medicine. While it’s perhaps no match for modern medical sciences when it comes to serious illnesses and injuries, it can work wonders for everyday life’s little aches and irritations. The accumulated wisdom of herbalists throughout the ages can, in fact, work wonders.

The herbs for Sóley’s products are handpicked in the Icelandic nature during the short but sweet Icelandic summers. These herbs are then blended with certified organic vegetable or essential oils and pure Icelandic water, resulting in effective but gentle products.

Ever since the beginning, Sóley’s products have received a warm welcome, both in Iceland and outside its shores. It’s no wonder really; they promise organic luxury and they deliver!

THE HERBS Birch – Birch is the only tree that’s native to Iceland but it more than makes up for it by being the most common tree you’ll see in Iceland. Birch contains Betulin, which will clam inflammations, tone pores, and help wounds heal, as well as several antioxidants.

Birch is supposed to be especially effective to make hair thick shiny and healthy, which is why it’s the main ingredient in Sóley’s BIRKIR shampoo!

86 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Yarrow – Yarrow is one of the oldest known medicinal plants, being used for that purpose at least since Ancient Greece. It has a reputation as a panacea and is especially supposed to heal damaged skin quickly and cleanly. Icelandic yarrow is especially potent and has been used for healing purposes since Viking times. SÓLEY’s products contain yarrow for its calming and healing properties.

It should also help keep your skin looking lovely and your hair healthy.

Bearberries – Bearberries are not only (as the name suggests) popular food for bears (in other countries, there are no bears here, aside from the occasional polar bear visitor), but also a herb with a long history of medicinal use, both inside the body and out.

It’s a part of the mixture of herbs as it’s a safe and effective way to support and nourish the skin.

Willow – Willow bark contains the natural form of aspirin and was even recommended

by Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine. While Hippocrates wasn’t too bothered over the plants uses for skincare, willow does contain salicin which our bodies metabolise into salicylic acid, a widely used ingredient in skincare products. It speeds up the skin’s natural process of getting rid of dead cells and growing new ones leading to healthier skin.

Sóley Organics Bæjarhraun 10, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 555 2222 www.soleyorganics.com Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

HAPPY HOUR EVERY DAY 16:00-19:00

The Light of Our Lives Iceland, silly as the name can seem during the summer months, was named so for a reason. In the old days, before electricity and heating, when the cold and dark could actually kill people, self-preservation and innovation were the keys to surviving. It is a wonderful thing that one of the best-known brands in Icelandic export is a product that has helped the Icelandic nation survive since the settlement. It’s a fish oil product called Lýsi and we are so proud of it.

Our Norwegian settlers brought with them the knowledge of how to process Lýsi. They made it from whales, sharks, fish, seals and even birds and used it as fuel for light, to soften and protect the clothing of seafarers and as a nutritional supplement for both humans and animals. For a time, it was even used as currency, as sources from as far back as 1096 state that church taxes in Iceland were paid in the form of this life saving, smelly liquid. The name “Lýsi” comes from the product having been used as lamp oil, in Icelandic, the verb “lýsa“ means “to illuminate“. Living this close to the Arctic Circle means that winter nights are long and

dark, so one can only imagine how precious it must have been to be able to have light in the house. Add to that Lýsi’s nutritional value, it’s a valuable source of vitamins A and D (in a country where the sun is absent most of the time and low in the sky when it does show its face), and it becomes an understatement to say that Lýsi has had a real impact on survival in this country.

The method of processing Lýsi from the liver in the old days was, in the simplest terms I can think of, something like this: They dug a hole, put the liver in the hole and waited for the oil to squirt out. Hardly a developed technology, but nevertheless, Lýsi was the biggest export product of Iceland as early as the 14th century, along with dried fish and woollen cloth.

THE BEGINNING In 1938 a man named Tryggvi Ólafsson founded a production and export company, simply naming it LYSI. He had then spent the decade before trading and experimenting with Lýsi, first in a small lab he prepared in his home. At the time he founded LYSI, the company was considered a pioneer in the production of marine lipids and later became a global leader in the field. The company’s research has been on-going for decades and today LYSI is at the world forefront of research and product development. Tryggvi had a seat on the board until he was 96 years old and it wasn’t until 1981 that the first non-family member became president of the company. In 1999 the company was 88 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

reclaimed by the family and has been run

by Katrín Pétursdóttir, the granddaughter of Tryggvi Ólafsson and her family since then.

In April 2007, LYSI was awarded the President of Iceland’s Award for Export Achievement for its “unique achievement in the sales and marketing of marine lipid products and for the vision the company demonstrates in product development and for the build-up of knowledge and expertise in its field.”

…THE REST IS HISTORY Every child in Iceland knows that there is no way of growing up to be big and strong without having a spoonful of Lýsi with breakfast every day. They have no idea what Omega-3 and vitamins A and D do for them but it’s is a tradition. This is what mummy and daddy raise them to do because their parents told them to and that has been the way of things in this country for hundreds of years.

But the LYSI product line has more to offer than just classic cod liver oil in a glass bottle.

The company now has various production lines, including shark liver oil, omega-3 fish oil, and various blister products where in addition to the Lýsi itself the customer is provided with vitamins and minerals as well. Still, the majority of the company’s turnover comes from a tradition of 700 years, exporting cod liver oil in bulk. And in a country that is consumed with nostalgia, you can just begin to imagine how loving and respecting LYSI is branded into our dark-enduring, hardworking Icelandic soul.

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The Wonders of the Volcanoes Volcano House features two documentaries that focus on the most famous eruptions of Iceland, including Vestmannaeyjar in 1973 and Eyjafjallajökull in 2010, as well as talking about the causes and effects of Icelandic volcanology in general.

The Volcano House includes a FREE “hands on” geology exhibition featuring many different mineral samples, such as lava from the 2014 eruption of Bárðabunga and ash from the eruption of Eyjafjallajökull.

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