About Polska

About

About

an insiders’ guide for outsiders

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Słowiński National Park

Gdynia Sopot•• •Gdańsk un7

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Olsztyn •

Tuchola Forest National Park

Wolin National Park

•Szczecin

• Bydgoszcz ls

•Toruń un

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Drawno National Park

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Warta Mouth National Park

•Poznań ls

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Wielkopolska National Park

Kampinos National Park

• Łódź

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•Wrocław un

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Karkonosze National Park

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Stołowe Mountains National Park

UNESCO World Heritage Sites un1 Historic Centre of Cracow un2 Wieliczka and Bochnia Royal Salt Mines un3 Auschwitz Birkenau: ­German Nazi Concentration and Extermination Camp (1940-1945) un4 Białowieża Forest un5 Historic Centre of Warsaw un6 Old City of Zamość un7 Castle of the Teutonic Order in Malbork un8 Medieval Town of Toruń

un16 Katowice

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Świętokrzyski National Park

Ojców National Park

un1 Kraków • un2

un3 Babia Góra National Park

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Gorce National Park

Tatra ls un un9 Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: National ls the Mannerist Architectural Park Pieniny and Park Landscape ls National Complex and Pilgrimage Park Park un10 Churches of Peace un15 Wooden Tserkvas of the in Jawor and Świdnica Carpathian Region in un11 Wooden Churches of South­Poland and Ukraine ern Małopolska un16 Tarnowskie Góry un12 Muskauer Park Lead-Silver-Zinc Mine un13 Centennial Hall in Wrocław un14 Ancient and Primeval Beech un17 Krzemionki Prehistoric Striped Flint Mining Region Forests of the Carpathians

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Wigry National Park

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Narew National Park

Biebrza National Park

• Białystok lsun4

Białowieża National Park

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•Warsaw un

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Polesie National Park

• Lublin

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Roztocze National Park

• Rzeszów ls

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Magura National Park

Contents

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Bieszczady National Park

10 Reasons to Go to Poland 18 The Polish Language 20 Poles: Romantic Conquerors 22 Solidarity Gene 24 Art of Urban Life 26 Proud of Mud and Marshes 28 Wild Beasts of Poland 30 Keepsakes from Poland 34

Places Warsaw 36 Katowice and Silesia 52 Tri-city (Gdańsk, Gdynia, Sopot) 64 Kraków 76 Łódź 90 Olsztyn and Warmia 100 Wrocław 108 Poznań 118 Szczecin 128 Bydgoszcz and Toruń 136 Lublin 144 Białystok and Podlasie 152 Rzeszów 160

Business, Science and Innovations 166 Culture 194 Sport 220 Food 232

4 Warsaw and its diverse architecture ranging from neoclassicism to socmodernist apartment blocks to cuttingedge ­skyscrapers

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6 Warmia and Mazury are often called ‘A Land of a Thousand Lakes’, although altogether there are over 3,000 lakes

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8 The northern border of Poland constitutes an almost uninterrupted strip of unusually beautiful Baltic beaches – wide, sandy, and pristine

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10 Koniaków – a scenic village in Beskid Śląski, noted for its traditional lace and for the custom of trailing of the sheep

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Polska and Poles Poland lies along the Vistula River. And it was along the Vistula that the more and less dramatic events have played out that today make the nation the poster bearer for democratic transformation and for the can-do attitude it maintains. Along with neon signs of multinational companies and small businesses from across the world brightening the country’s streets, it’s also been a transformation in Poles themselves.

Polska and Poles

The Vistula Festival in Warsaw takes place every year on the first weekend of September

Native creativity, ingenuity, enthusiasm and openness have led the country to shine in entrepreneurship, innovativeness and efficiency rankings. Riding a wave of solidarity with the entire world, the nation pulled itself from the deep depression of Communism and a lack of access to more than two channels on TV. And it’s due to the determination of Poles, who drew on rich traditions and managed to survive the worst moments – even power outages and meat shortages. And this spirit lives on, as Poland supports her eastern neighbours in their current struggles for democracy.

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It was along the Vistula that major national role models grew up, from Pope John Paul II to Lech Wałęsa, though today the icon of free Poland is the footballer Robert Lewandowski. Nobel laureate writers Olga Tokarczuk, Wisława Szymborska and Czesław Miłosz have given Poland the reputation of a land of poets.

Literary development is fostered by the sonorous language, used by over 40 million people at home and abroad. (Knowing the population’s expansiveness, it may well be that they’re using the language someplace else in our galaxy, but that has yet to be confirmed.)

Polish, based on the Latin alphabet and shaped over centuries, now serves as one of the EU’s official languages. Its unique rules for declension and conjugation amaze

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Polska and Poles

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1. John Paul II encouraged Poles to renew their homeland and opened the door to a peaceful revolution under the banner of the Solidarność trade union, which eventually led the country to freedom in 1989.

Pictured: Lech Wałęsa – leader of the Solidarity movement and the first President of the Third Republic of Poland

anyone brave enough to dare take the language up. It’s not easy to get how a group of friends can have supper together, during which all of them of any gender jedzą – are eating – but then once the meal is over the women will have eaten – jadły – while jedli is what it’s been for the men. The overuse of diminutives can also puzzle foreigners. Poles, for a bit of enjoyment, don’t just spend a little money (pieniądze) but tiny money (pieniążki); drinking coffee, they sip kawka instead of kawa; and while out on a walk (spacer) inevitably turn it into just a little stroll (spacerek).

2. The famous High Noon 1989 parliamentary election poster 3. Benedictine Abbey in Tyniec on the Vistula, located in the south-west part of Kraków; the oldest remaining monastery in Poland, founded in the mid-11th century

The language occurs in various patois and dialects that developed due to geographical and demographical conditions.

The foreign partitions that split the nation from 1772 to 1918 led to the ­Germanisation and Russification of speech which can still be detected today. In the Silesia and Pomerania regions, some still firmly believe that szneka z glancem – a glazed pastry roll – is a native term, when it comes from German: snail (Schnecke) with a glaze (Glanz). There is another officially recognised language: Kashubian, spoken by over a hundred thousand Kashubs, descendants

Polska and Poles

of Slavic Pomeranian tribes who inhabited the Baltic coast during medieval times.

They like to call themselves richtig Polaki – that is, true Poles.

Being regarded for centuries as a highly tolerant country has led diverse national minorities to seek shelter here in times of historic turmoil, from Tatars to Karaites, Lemkos, Roma, Ukrainians – and, most recently, the Hollywood actor Jesse Eisenberg. And the enormous Jewish heri­ tage lives on in the memory and culture of Poles. In Warsaw, the Polin Museum of the History of Polish Jews is a must-visit for its engaging chronicle of Jewish-Polish coexistence across these lands.

The Vistula links the mountainous south with the coastal north. The varied landscapes will leave an impression with even the most hardened tourist who’s seen it all (or on the Internet). The soaring Tatras, the enchanting low Bieszczady range and the mysterious Karkonosze feature fresh air and gorgeous scenery for spectacular

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photos sure to score waves of social-media likes. Aromas of fish grilling waft over broad, sandy Baltic beaches, making one want to linger near the shore for just one more brown trout or flounder. The Mazurian lake district satisfies even demanding seekers of adventure, backwoods solitude and mosquitoes. Even advertising seems incapable of spoiling the country’s beautiful landscapes. Omnipresent hoardings, banners and billboards with inscriptions like ‘Plumbing and Consulting’ – there are so many even the most refined aesthetes no longer notice them. They are also easier to miss when you cycle past them on the wideranging, newly built systems of bike paths.

The Vistula and its tributaries continually enrich the earth, allowing agriculture to flourish. It’s no surprise that until recently this was by and large an agrarian country. Folk culture and crafts were nurtured and flourished. The main export goods were painted Easter eggs and Highlanders’ felt slippers, along with 3

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Polska and Poles

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1 1. Palm Sunday in Lipnica ­Murowana. Folk artists entering an Easter palm competition 2. The Witcher – one of the most popular Netflix series, based on Andrzej Sapkowski’s best-selling prose 3. Robert Lewandowski representing Poland at Euro 2024 3

Despite their innate pessimism, Poles are the cultural extravaganza of the folk songalso famed meme creators. Ever heard of and-dance group Mazowsze. Then, too, ‘smiles in Polish’? there were Fryderyk Chopin and Maria Poland lies along the Vistula River.

Curie-Skłodowska. But today it’s a country whose young people take the world on their You won’t need GPS to be certain of that.

Just come here, guided by your (*tick own terms. Which doesn’t mean they’ve where appropriate) *romantic spirit, *enforgotten all that heritage, with prime evidence being The Witcher video games and TV trepreneurial drive, *good common sense series, loved worldwide. or *avid curiosity. Any reason’s good The Vistula is a river as unregulated enough to come see what Poland is really and unpredictable as the nature of Poles. like in the here and now. And there are Most young people diverge from the beaten loads of reasons • path, so Poland is renowned for innovative solutions, original scientific thought, and a rich cultural life manifested in the busy festival schedule across the country and throughout the year. Again, it all comes from the incredible energy churning in this steadily evolving country.

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Among Poland’s 38 million population*

51.7%

48.3%

females

males

Age structure

National and ethnic identity declared by responders as their first choice 1.4 million other than Polish

596 k Silesian

0–9 10–19 20–29 30–39 40–49 50–59 60–69 70–79 80–99 10.2% 10.1% 11.3% 15.8% 15.2% 12% 13.4% 7.7% 4.3%

180 k

Kashubian 144 k

German

Religions and denominations Don’t belong to any church

82 k Ukrainian

6.87%

57 k Belarusian 54 k English

Unknown 1.1%

28 k American (US) Muslim, Jewish and Other 0.11% 20 k Italian 17 k Jewish 16 k Russian Mariavite Church 0.03% 15 k French 14 k Lemko Pentecostal 0.08% 13 k Roma 12 k Irish Greek Catholic 0.09% 10 k Lithuanian 10 k Dutch 9 k Norwegian Protestant 0.19% 8 k Spanish 8 k Czech 7 k Swedish Jehova’s 7 k Armenian 0.29% Witness 6 k Belgian 6 k Canadian 6 k Slovak 5 k Greek 5 k Tatar Orthodox 0.40% 70 k 5 k Vietnamese 4 k Scottish Other 4 k Australian 3 k Karaimian 3 k Austrian 3 k Danish *in 2021 Did not provide a response

36.6 million Polish

Roman Catholic

71.3%

20.53%

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Polska and Poles

10 reasons to Go to Poland Fanny Vaucher – Graphic artist, author of the Pilules polonaises blog

what 1 Discovering history really means.

Poland’s history is so rich, there is hardly a stone without a dense and dramatic story to it. Every neighbourhood of every town seems to have its own tumultuous history and its never-forgotten heroes. Sometimes it makes me dizzy how the past is still so much part of the present.

Ł and the Ą.

2 The The particular

diacritic marks of the alphabet are evidence of beauty on earth. Well, OK, I am fond of typography, which is just another good reason for coming to Poland, the land of great font designers and typographers.

a free-roam3 Meeting ing bison during a forest walk. Whereas most European bison are kept in zoos and parks, in Poland they live free in the primeval forests of the east. The possibility of seeing those silent herds grazing among the tall oaks, or of being surprised by the silhouette of a huge bison cutting through the snowy landscape…

Polska and Poles

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(The new cool of) Apple Having your name shortHip-hop in Polish. Discov4 cider.

6 ened 8 ering You always thought in six different ways. hip-hop in another this weird bubbly drink was merely the little pleasure of faraway countryside uncles, until you spend hot nights cooling down with it on the Bulwar by the Vistula. It tastes like a million sweet apples from the orchards, and you might only stop when your stomach really can’t take it anymore.

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Love. Well, what can I say.

Yes, of course, you will fall in love. Yes, of course, it will be the most romantic love of your life. Yes, of course, ‘Poland’ means ‘love’. And yes, it will change your life forever. Out of love, you will learn Polish and consider a three-day wedding.

Out of love, you will move to Radom and live happily ever after.

When you make friends and they start saying your name in affectionate diminutives (which are often much longer than your real name), or when your lover calls you something different each time, you will melt. It’s cuteness incarnate.

Mushrooms. Mushrooms 7 everywhere, every colour, every shape, every taste. A paradise of forest mushrooms.

Little vegetable markets full of mushroom baskets. Dried mushrooms in little plastic bags. Mushroom hunting during Sunday walks in the forests.

Mushroom sauces, mushroom burgers, mushroom crêpes, mushroom soup, mushroom tea. Well no, there’s no mushroom tea, but still.

language is always a deep dive into a culture, its contemporary focuses, issues and identities.

Polish being the most beautiful and strange language on earth, isn’t it exciting to listen to Polish hip-hop? pickle. I would 9 Agiveperkier all the Swiss chocolate in the world for jars of pickled ogórki – Polish cucumbers – the sour ones called kiszone and the fresh low-salt seasonal ones called małosolne. The very first time I tried them, it was in a soup and I thought it was mouldy. However, it was love at first bite. I learned to make jars of ogórki małosolne in the summery countryside near Olsztyn, and all the ingredients grew in the garden: cucumbers, garlic, dill, horseradish and blackcurrant leaf.

I would look for the small ones and eat them all day. A friend had a baby who would gurgle and suck on pickles like candy. art of irony. The 10 The sense of humour seems to me a subtle combination of irony and self-ridicule. It usually shows an acute awareness of what is at stake •

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Polska and Poles

The Polish language Polish is a part of the West Slavic language group, which includes Czech and Slovak and is part of the Indo-European language group. It is estimated that Polish is a native language for some 44 million people worldwide. Polish is known for a frequent occurrence of long consonant clusters which can prove problematic for foreigners •

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1.Cześć means “hello” in English. It’s worth putting a lot of effort into learning the Polish greeting. It’s pronounced “chech-sh-ch”. Pictured: scarf by Pan tu nie stał

2. Tor Grotesk typeface by ­Marian Misiak, primarily designed for Radical Passion, a book about train enthusiasts and EN57, the world’s longestproduced electric train

Good morning

Thank you

Goodbye

How are you?

Nice to meet you

Cheers/Bless you

Dzień dobry jane-doh-brih Do widzenia doh ve-dzen-ya Miło cię poznać meew-oh ch-eh poh-z-nach

Dziękuję jen-koo-yeh Jak się masz? yahk shay mahsh Na zdrowie! nah-zdroh-vyeh

21 The Polish alphabet, which has 32 characters, does not include the Latin letters Q, V and X

Aa Ąą Bb Cc Ćć Dd Ee Ęę Ff Gg Hh Ii Jj Kk Ll Łł Mm Nn Ńń Oo Óó Pp Rr Ss Śś Tt Uu Ww Yy Zz Żż Źź

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Polska and Poles

Poles: romantic conquerors The Poles are a nation of conquerors. In the past they pursued heroic deeds to save their own identity. Now they conquer the know-how to pursue and fully achieve their passions. Polish scientists, programmers, entrepreneurs and artists don’t have to constantly worry if history will ‘Let Poland be Poland.’ They just strive to live at the highest elevations imaginable, and hardly anyone suffers from a fear of heights. The Poles are a nation of vast potential and unique imagination. Residents of Poland prefer to travel off the beaten path. Likewise, they enjoy

thinking outside the box. Eager to create new concepts, they – like an apple falling from a tree – hit on new ideas seemingly at random. Sometimes their actions may appear irrational, and they aren’t always crowned with success. But they attempt to amaze the world. Was use to call this daredevil streak was called in Polish ‘the fantasy of the Uhlans’ – the dashing, colourful, sabre-wielding cavalry units of the past. Today, Poles are the Uhlans of creative thinking. They are convinced that nothing is impossible for them •

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Pole Krystyna ChojnowskaLiskiewicz (1) is the first woman to have circumnavigated the globe sailing solo in a yacht.

A naval engineer and a master mariner, she embarked on her voyage aboard Mazurek, a sloop (small yacht), setting sail from Las Palmas in the Canary Islands on 28 March 1976.

She closed her nautical loop on 20 March 1978. This was a oneof-a-kind year that also saw Mirosław Hermaszewski go to space, the first (and only, so far) Polish national to do so • Designed by Filip Pągowski (3) for Comme des Garçons, the heart is familiar to people all over the world. Known as the Japanese clothing company’s PLAY logo, the symbol found its way onto T-shirts, sneakers and shirts, winning the hearts of fashion aficionados. Pągowski, the son of Teresa Pągowska, an outstanding painter in her own right, and Henryk ­Tomaszewski, one of the co-originators of the Polish School of Posters (1950s–1980s), works predominantly as a graphic designer •

Polska and Poles

23 Andrzej Bargiel (2) was born in 1988 in Łętownia, a small village in the south of Poland, as the ninth of eleven children.

Thirty years later he became the first person in history to ski from the top of K2 (8,611 m MSL) to the base camp without taking off his skis, for which he was awarded the National Geographic Adventurer of the Year 2019. In 2023 he skied down from two eight-thousanders, Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II. This achievement made him the first person in the world to ski down from all four eight-thousanders located in the Karakoram: Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I and ­Gasherbrum II •

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Polska and Poles

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Solidarity Gene Poland’s Solidarity movement of the 1980s is an international wonder of peaceful and effective grass-roots activism that led to the democratic change in the country in 1989 – and, later, to the fall of the Iron Curtain in the entire Eastern Bloc. Solidarity was thus a key changemaker in the region and Lech Wałęsa famously received the 1983 Nobel Peace Prize for leading the movement.

Noblesse oblige, so the spirit of Polishstyle civic engagement – lightning fast, horizontally networked, slightly anarchic, enthusiastic and able – has been thriving ever since. You can find it in the annual countrywide drives led by Grand Orchestra of Christmas Charity (Wielka Orkiestra Świątecznej Pomocy), local cultural initiatives and, on an international scale, in the remarkable assistance offered to Ukraine since Russia’s 2022 invasion.

The reaction of Poles was immediate, faster in fact that any diplomatic responses.

In a matter of hours people organised food,

logistics and accommodation all over the country to Ukrainians fleeing the war. Two years later, almost one million Ukrainian refugees were in Poland. However, the total number of Ukrainians in the country is estimated to be three times higher, since in the recent decades Poland had become a reliable destination for work and education among Ukrainians. This means that official and unofficial assistance networks are vast and varied. What’s more, the Poles’ support for Ukraine’s fight for independence and democracy remains strong. This aid and shared ideals are also important in the long run: despite a conflicted history, the two countries are now rewriting it by the hands of ordinary citizens standing in solidarity for a better future •

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Polska and Poles

Helping others Poland has come a long way from a country in need of assistance to the country of possibilities, sharing aid with less developed ones. We help through providing education and training, strengthening institutions, building civic society, developing entrepreneurship and medical care, as well as through assistance to communities afflicted by natural

disasters, crises and conflicts.

The worth of Polish assistance (developmental and humanitarian combined) rose from approx. $400 million in 2010, to $1 billion in 2021, to $2.6 billion in 2023.

For years, Polish assistance has extended to countries such as Ukraine, Moldova, Georgia, Lebanon, Palestine, Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania and Senegal. Polish NGOs assist victims of military conflicts and natural disasters. They are on hand, cooperating with local organisations •

2 1. The Grand Orchestra of Christmas Charity (Wielka Orkiestra Świątecznej Pomocy) is the largest charity campaign in Poland. By 2024, it managed to raise a total of almost PLN 2 billion for medical equipment for hospitals 2. In 2022, thousands of volunteers were actively involved in helping Ukrainian refugees 3. July 2024. Faisal Ahmed Al-Sawadi and his children use water provided by the PAH reservoir in Jisr al-Shughur in north-western Syria

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The NGOs most strongly engaged in these activities include: Polish Center for International Aid, whose Emergency Medical Team assists communities affected by natural disasters and implements humanitarian projects in Lebanon, South Sudan and Ukraine. It also carries out developmental projects, facilitating emergency services in Kenya, Ethiopia, Tanzania and Palestine.

Polish Medical Mission provides medical assistance and supports local health services by renovating medical centres and providing access to medical care in places including Gaza, Ethiopia, Senegal, Ukraine, Syria and Iraq.

Caritas Poland provides humanitarian and medical aid, supports education and microbusinesses, assists those afflicted by natural and non-natural disasters. It is active in the Gaza Strip and the West Bank as well as Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, Ukraine, Yemen and other locations.

Polish Humanitarian ­ ction provides develA opmental and humanitarian aid, ensuring access to food, water and education in Yemen, Kenya, Syria, Iraq, Lebanon, Somalia, South Sudan, Madagascar, Ukraine, and others •

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Polska and Poles

Art of Urban Life Management of a truly public space is something that the Poles have only recently been learning to master. But they are eager and receptive students. And although the space of cities is beset with a multitude of maladies, it is still the result of our ideas and joint energies – we intend to change it, activate and improve.

The Poles are spending more and more time outside of home, readily enjoying green spaces, outdoor recreation, and catering establishments. The cities

Florist workshop organised for the residents of the Targówek Housing Estate in Warsaw, part of the Puszka Foundation project Lexicon for People and Nature, 2024

surprise with their choice of a variety of places, often typified by a strong local identity – ranging from riversides to quarters of culture (e.g. the socio-cultural quarter at 29–31 Emilii Plater Street in Warsaw) to repurposed post-industrial spaces (e.g. the former Katowice mine or the Old Mine in Wałbrzych), pockets of greenery, artistic backyards, theme playgrounds and community gardens. Outdoor initiatives are easy to come by, including street theatre performances, breakfast fairs, communal

Polska and Poles

yoga sessions, concert and festivals of art in public space (e.g. Narracje in Gdańsk, and Open City in Lublin). We take care anew of what was damaged by the cogs of capitalism, that is of urban bazaars (e.g. the new City Market in Błonie, or the Main Square in the Oliwa district of Gdańsk) and non-commercial meeting spaces. The younger generations have discovered for themselves the benefits of social gardens and allotments, where one can rest at one’s leisure and swap seedlings and saplings with a neighbour – a fellow green finger.

We’re also on the point of redefining what nature in the city can be – we’ve started to green our surroundings, to get rid of concrete that used to dominate public squares, to defend rights of nature, supporting urban resilience and advocating for the welfare of all – human and non-human – city residents, and in this way fulfilling ‘the right to the city’ in practice.

The public space of Polish cities is undoubtedly clean. It also tries to be more and more aesthetic. There appeared numerous murals and street art spaces,

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more modern art that doesn’t shy away from lightness and colour. Neon lights are back in vogue, illuminating cities after dark. More conscious of the notion of visual chaos, we attempt to curb it – we are no longer in need of large-scale advertising and the cacophony of banners, signboards and ads. Preservation of architectural rarities is maintained by aficionados and initiatives aspiring to protect and renovate mosaics, architectonic details, and even entire buildings and landscape guidelines (worthwhile initiatives include Tu Było tu Stało, Ratujemy Mozaiki, Neon Story and Traffic Design). We literally take the space into our hands – whether at the grass roots or through specific tools, such public consultations, local initiatives and participatory budgeting. We fight for cities for all, not just for cars. The younger generation are more and more given to using art as a political act, expressing their convictions in the streets. We’re no longer mere bystanders! •

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Polska and Poles

Proud of Mud and Marshes ‘It was in Poland that I discovered the fifth element: mud’ is what Napoleon supposedly said when during one of his military campaigns, somewhere near Pułtusk, his army got literally stuck in a swamp. Swamps, marshes, mires and flood plains have for centuries dominated the landscape of Poland. As late as in the nineteenth century, Europeans – their fascination with mud piqued – travelled to our local morasses, destinations of their natural and ethnographic expeditions, as if they were embarking on a trip to far-flung continents. Today, the notion of ‘mud as one of the fundamental elements’ is hardly remembered, except for a few scientists and enthusiasts. No wonder: in terms of its landscape, Poland has become like Western Europe; almost every year it suffers from severe drought. The once wetlandrich landscape is limited to scraps – according to only 10–15 per cent of marshes remain. Why? For starters, the climate has undergone a massive change. Gone are silver-white winters, which for months used to cover almost the entire country with snow caps. When ice started to thaw in the spring, unregulated, wild rivers overflowed, flooding and feeding nearby marshes. But there is more to drought than global climate change. The dehydration of the Polish landscape is also a product of our poor water management.

Not a day passed without irrigation ditches being dug. As a result, the country abounds in canals and ditches. If put together, they could be twisted around the equator five times. So, it is hardly surprising that drought reigns supreme here.

Cecylia Malik and River Sisters, ‘To the Rescue of the Warta River!’, joint initiative of the Greenmind Foundation, River Sisters and Society of the Friends of Słońsk, conducted to protect the estuary of the Warta River, part of the Citizens for Water Project. July 2023

Polska and Poles

Slowly but surely, things are looking up, though. Marshes, wild rivers, flood plains and other wetlands are being considered not only a boon, but an ‘export commodity’.

The 1990s saw the establishment of the Biebrza National Park, the largest of its kind in the country, protecting the region’s vast marshes from drainage, which today serve as the magnet for birdwatchers from all over Europe. In 2001, the Warta River estuary, also known as ‘Muds of Warta’ (Błota Warciańskie), was saved. The next in line is the Lower Odra River, the Barycz Valley, the Bug River – flowing along the country’s

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eastern border, and – perhaps the largest rarity of them all – the Middle Vistula River, with its natural, unspoilt, ‘untouched by humans’ riverbed, full of sandy islets and sandbanks. Smaller rivers are being restored courtesy of beavers, absent from the river regions for centuries, and now enjoying their golden age. The Poles are more and more often learning how to cooperate with them, which may yield a real water renaissance across the country’s breadth and length •

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Poland’s wide variety of animals includes brown bears, wolves, eagle owls, moose and deer

Polska and Poles

Polska and Poles

Wild Beasts of Poland Białowieża Forest is home to a 900-member herd of European bison. It is the largest group of these extremely rare animals (8,800 living worldwide in the wild), which were nearly hunted to extinction in Europe as early as the Middle Ages. A total of over 2,600 European bison live in Poland. Białowieża Forest is the last primaeval forest complex on the continent. It is one of the most important natural treasures not only in Poland, but also in Europe.

Therefore, Białowieża Forest was included on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979 •

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White Storks – Well Known and Much Loved

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thousand pairs

of white storks live in Poland It's about

20% of the world’s population

Migration Storks spend about five months out of the year in Poland.

In ­August, their migration begins. Before flying south, storks congregate in large flocks (known as sejmiki – or caucuses), which gather all the birds from an area. The caucus locations are chosen instinctively by the flocks.

Leaving Poland, the majestic birds fly south-east, crossing the Bosphorus, the Middle East, the Sinai Peninsula en-route to eastern and southern Africa.

Their destinations include Sudan, Chad, Kenya, Malawi, Tanzania, Zambia and South Africa •

Storks cover

6–11

thousand km

during their migration

In favorable conditions storks can fly up to

250

km a day

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Polska and Poles

Keepsakes from Poland

Fenek Studio’s porcelain dishes and figurines have a distinctly recognisable style. Fans of cute, quirky designs – what the Japanese might call kawaii – will find special things at the small shop and workshop in Warsaw run by Antonina Kiliś and Agata Klimkowska.

Pins by Marcelina Jarnuszkiewicz, an artist living in the countryside, immersed in nature’s beauty. In her work, Jarnuszkiewicz draws inspiration directly from life, depicting the essence of non-human species with care and tenderness. In addition to delicate drawings, she also creates sculptures and illustrations.

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Polska and Poles I Believe In Paper is designer Joanna Dobkowska’s own brand of notebooks, created in spite of the fast paced times in which everyone is immersed in their phones. Produced sustainably in Warsaw, their covers are made of paper made from 100 percent recycled paper fibers

Amber jewellery by Orska is a testament to nature’s individuality: no two designs are identical, just as it is with any two pieces of amber. For first-hand experience of this uniqueness, try collecting amber after a storm along the Baltic’s shores.

Created by Michał Gilbert Lach, ­Polish Potatoes, a perfume

by Bohoboco, is an ode to the land. The fragrance features earthy notes of beetroot, wheat, potatoes, grass, rose, heliotrope and cloves, evoking the richness of the countryside.

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Warsaw Here and away Get to know the vibrant  Warsaw Chopin ­capital. The key to under­ Airport – 7 km  Warsaw Modlin Airport – 34 km standing this eclectic city is to  Berlin – 520 km Prague – 520 km realise how often Warsaw had Vilnius – 395 km to start over from scratch – like Overview the arrivals today seeking a new 🛡 1323  1,9 m life here far from their home 517 km2  9,25 PLN  238 k towns. Warsaw was destroyed several times in military attacks, uprisings and reprisals.

When the city practically ceased to exist in 1944, with nearly 90 per cent of the buildings destroyed, it looked like the ­ final chapter in the ­history of the city with a mermaid wielding a sword and a shield on its coat of arms.

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But just a year later, people began returning to their beloved capital and rebuilding it laboriously, brick by brick. Its contemporary shape and atmosphere suggest a quickly recreated space fit to serve various needs.

There are modern residential developments here, sometimes standing alongside old tenement buildings. There are many classic buildings recalling the nineteenth century. There are also socialist-realist remnants of Soviet domination, like the Palace of Culture – smack dab in the middle of the city, it can’t be ignored.

Skyscrapers on one of the main streets in downtown Warsaw – John Paul II Avenue

The former Parade Square, just next to the Palace of Culture, is currently being transformed thanks to the recently erected new home of the Museum of Modern Art. From now on, the space will be probably called Central Square, featuring a grid pattern of pre-war streets and lush greenery. Warsaw is 24/7 under construction and it doesn’t cease to change •

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1. Neon sign of the Isis beauty parlour, 1970s, 55/73 Marszałkowska Street; for more vintage light advertisements, check the Neon Museum 2. Lukullus w St-Tropez ice cream parlour 3. Paulina Ołowska’s exhibition Slavic Godesses at the Foksal Gallery Foundation 4. Ania Kuczyńska in her boutique on Rozbrat Street 5. Lupo Italian restaurant

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The Capital of Style Ania Kuczyńska Fashion designer 4

Warsaw is my private navel of the world, a strong, important energy point, my hometown and the place where I work and create. I like its architecture, on which history has left its mark, as well as its eclectic, unobvious atmosphere. When I feel tired, I visit the parks, hiding among the greenery and breathing. My brand supports

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5 the Green Fund for Warsaw and together, to date, we’ve bought 6,000 plants.

I like mornings – my favourite places to have a city breakfast are Gessler od rana, the Rano bakery in the Praga district, as well as Aromat and Lukullus. For lunch, I like visiting Przegryź or Peaches on the Vistula’s other side, with its

delicious plant-based cuisine.

Sometimes I also drop by Mod on Oleandrów Street. In the evenings, I opt for Bar Rascal, Lupo and Ale Wino; they are wonderful. I recommend visiting the capital during Warsaw Gallery Weekend and the Hotel Warszawa Art Fair: it’s a great opportunity to get to know contemporary Polish art and

to head into the city’s unique nooks and crannies, not generally accessible daily. Personally, I also love the Grand Theatre, home of the National Opera, with its atmosphere and interiors •

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Intergenerational vintage fashion show, Różyckiego Market

From the Far North to Praga North Over the years I’ve had a special relationship with Poland.

My wife is from the country, and I had lived there during shorter periods teaching Swedish and working remotely.

Moving to Warsaw came as an opportunity to again live in Poland for some time, knowing that nothing would prevent me from moving back to Sweden.

Now eight years have passed since we moved here, so there must be something holding us in Warsaw. Praga-Północ was chosen coincidentally. After renting an apartment for a year,

we wanted to have a more permanent place to live. Few neighbourhoods are as green as Praga, and nature is just around the corner with the unique wild east riverside of the Vistula – a natural phenomenon and treasure not found in any other European capitals. At the same time, all convenient services are nearby – supermarkets, healthcare, outdoor farmers market in the weekend, cafeterias, delicatessen shops, art galleries, and a public library.

This applies especially to the area around Hallera Square,

Andreas Jönsson IT specialist, Swede by origin, Varsovian by choice

which over the recent years has undergone significant changes making it attractive also for the people outside of the district, while maintaining a focus on the residents. The architecture in Praga is relatively old and the city plan is not likely to introduce any major changes any time soon. Our neighbours seem to enjoy this predictability and the new people who move to the district often seem intent on staying and contributing to the common good •

Warsaw

Milk Bars for All

A phenomenon that occurs not just in Warsaw but enjoys particular popularity here is the ‘milk bars’, a holdover from the days of Communism. The

Living Memory of Warsaw Jan Ołdakowski is the director of the Warsaw Rising Museum, one of the city’s liveliest and busiest historical institutions, commemorating the 1 August 1944 revolt against German Nazi ­occupation.

‘It’s great to be in Warsaw on the 1st of August to witness the annual celebration of the Warsaw Uprising’, Ołdakowski says. ‘At 5 pm the sirens go off, and at that very moment the entire city comes to a halt. Seeing this gigantic ‘flashmob’, when hundreds of thousands of people stand for a minute of silence, cars and bikes stop, all in homage to fallen Varsovians – it always makes a huge impression. The citizens of Warsaw feel a link to the history of this city. But it is a tangled history, impacted by two breeds of totalitarianism – Nazi and Soviet. That marks how Warsaw looks today: visually chaotic and often unlovely, but despite this – or perhaps precisely because of this – highly dynamic, creative, in constant motion’ •

41 name notwithstanding, they serve much more than milk, offering simple Polish fare (soups, dumplings, pancakes and the like) at very affordable, subsidised prices. Don’t be surprised if you see a businessman in a suit here eating lunch next to a homeless man. Some of the milk bars retain their retro atmosphere, while others have had a facelift. The one called Bar Prasowy (below), on Marszałkowska Street, became a cause célèbre when city authorities threatened to shut it down. Activists fought back, occupying the milk bar and serving food themselves. F ­ inally a settlement was reached and Bar Prasowy survived. Updated with a sharper design, it’s still in operation today •

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Inclusive and Fun Dominika Szpinda Cultural animator affiliated with Plan B and Plac Zabaw clubs

1. Plac Zabaw and BarKa nad Wisłą clubs 2. Warsaw Autumn Festival, concert of Jan Duszyński – Green Grass, yeah!, barStudio 3. Chopin Concerts in the Royal Łazienki Park. One of the biggest (and free) events during the summer season in Warsaw 4.“Heidegger? Denaturat”, a play staged at the Komuna ­Warszawa theatre

To fully enjoy an adventure in Warsaw, explore the vibrant open spaces loved by locals and brought to life by inspiring individuals and collectives.

Stop by venues like Plan B Club, Młodsza Siostra, Turnus na Wolskiej or Między Nami Café.

These friendly spots are great for meeting people, with staff who are well-connected to the city’s cultural scene.

Warsaw is a hub for socially engaged initiatives and unique gathering spaces. Jazdów, a green oasis in the city centre with historic Finnish cottages once used by city rebuilders, now hosts diverse artistic events. Komuna Warszawa, housed in a former school building, is renowned for its innovative theatre and performance-art projects. During summer, Plac Zabaw, a seasonal outdoor spot along the Vistula River, becomes a laid-back cultural hub, perfect for relaxation and enjoying scenic river

views. Additionally, barStudio and Café Kulturalna in the Palace of Culture and Science are cultural icons, offering a rich line-up of events.

Warsaw’s music venues, such as Pardon To Tu, Chmury, Spatif and Jassmine, regularly host top-quality concerts, while festivals like Lado w Mieście, Ephemera, Idealistic, Avant Art and International Festival of Contemporary Music Warsaw Autumn bring in outstanding local and international acts. Original initiatives like WB ­ rzask and Radio Lola, along with local event promoters, are also worth following.

Each venue is inclusive and celebrates diversity. For LGBTQ+ individuals and their allies, events by Ciężki Brokat or Kem Warsaw are recommended.

For unique insights into Warsaw’s queer history, chatting with regulars at Ramona Bar is a must •

44 There are over 80 city parks in Warsaw. One of them, Pole Mokotowskie, has recently been revitalised

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Change of Perspective Warsaw is a city that can be almost entirely traversed while surrounded by greenery, and I especially like showing this route to my friends. It allows them to admire all the iconic buildings and makes walking through the city much more enjoyable.

Escarpment path

Warsaw was born thanks to this embankment (the town’s location on the hill overlooking the Vistula River increased its defence capability), and today it benefits from its recreational values. The Warsaw Escarpment (Skarpa Warszawska) is a green belt stretching throughout the city, along the Vistula River, from Powsin to Młociny. To start with, I recommend its shorter section: from the Royal Łazienki and Agrykola Park (below Ujazdowski Castle), through Jazdów (a housing estate comprising Finnish wooden houses), the Marshal Edward Rydz-Śmigły Park, Mariensztat, right to the gardens of the Royal Castle and the New Town.

Agnieszka Kowalska Journalist, author of Green Warsaw. Alternative Guide (2022)

Allotment oasis

Family Allotments (ROD) is a fascinating space in the city, almost forming a separate organism. They aren’t private, but neither are they municipal (the areas usually belong to the city but are managed by the Polish Allotment Gardeners Association that leases individual allotments). It’s an area of horticultural, architectural and handicraft freedom (within a certain framework, of course, but it is still justifiably freedom).

A laboratory of knowledge about species of perennials, fruit trees and vegetables that endure the hardships of urban vegetation. A place for testing eco-friendly solutions, where you can find composters, rainwater tanks, ponds, permaculture beds, flower meadows and hives. An area friendly to senior citizens who have been pushed out of the public spaces of modern cities. A quiet enclave for animals. Not all gates are open. However, I recommend ROD Waszyngtona and ROD Rakowiec, where guests are very welcome.

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Warsaw

Vistula path

Tourists come to Warsaw to experience the nature surrounding the river in the heart of the city, whereas we, as inhabitants, have it at our fingertips every day! Here are some spectacular spots within Warsaw: nature reserves, riparian forests, sandbanks and backwaters, vast beaches and meadows. The river stretches 30 kilometres

within the city boundaries and constitutes an integral part of Natura 2000, a network of nature protection areas designed mainly for the preservation of birds. I expressly recommend a stroll on the right bank, which offers a scenic view of the city centre and the Old Town. This is where you’ll find cycling and running paths. You can light a bonfire on the vast beaches and play with your children on natural playgrounds.

In the warm season, the two banks are connected by free city ferries •

2 1. City Bees on one of the terraces of the Palace of Culture 2. Open Jazdów – community of the Warsaw settlement of wooden Finnish houses, offering a social, cultural and ecological programme of public events 3. Journalist and author Paulina Reiter on her allotment garden in Czerniaków

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3 4. Warsaw features over 800 kilometres of bike lanes, including a natural scenic path by the Vistula River and a new bike and foot bridge across the river

48 Historic tenement houses in the Old Town and Saint John the Baptist Archcathedral

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More beautiful, more colourful than before…

Those lyrics sung in the 1950s by the crooner Mieczysław Fogg precisely captured the spirit of the era. Warsaw, tragically battered in the Second World War, was returning to life thanks to the entire nation’s efforts.

However, architects and planners ambitiously aimed both to restore its familiar form and to make it more livable and beautiful. Even the Old Town is new, despite its name, as it was largely rebuilt in the 1950s with significant alterations. The Old Town was then recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980, as an exceptional project of twentieth-century reconstruction.

Several generations have passed, and Warsaw keeps up these changes with unchecked fervour. The Palace of Culture and Science, the socialist-realist skyscraper completed in 1955, may remain the capital skyline’s most striking feature, yet its dominance is challenged by the ever-expanding cluster of contemporary towers. Just opened at the Palace’s foot, the white, minimalist, cubical Museum of Modern Art,

Grzegorz Piątek Writer, architecture critic, curator

by the US architect Thomas Phifer (above), provides stark contrast to the landmark tower’s ornate architecture.

To see a more leisurely side of the city, hop on the Metro’s newer M2 line to Powiśle, not long ago a dormant riverside neighbourhood and now a bustling mixed-use area. This impressive transformation got underway in 1999 with the completion of the University of Warsaw Library, by Marek Budzyński and Zbigniew Badowski. It is admired by professionals and ordinary visitors alike. And the latter particularly appreciate its roof garden with views over the city, out to the Świętokrzyski Bridge’s iconic 85-metre tower, and across the Vistula River to the National Stadium (2012). Powiśle also features Warsaw’s most beloved contemporary public space: the riverfront promenade known as the Bulwary, its appeals and vistas complemented in 2024 by a (still nameless) pedestrian bridge over the Vistula.

The promenade links Powiśle with the Cytadela, the nineteenth-century fortress

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that’s been transformed into a campus of museums: the Polish History Museum and the Polish Army Museum (designed

by WXCA) and the smaller Katyń Museum, interwoven into the historic brick fortifications (designed by BBGK) and shortlisted in 2017 for the EU Mies van der Rohe Prize for Architecture. Warsaw’s architecture scene scored another major success in 2024 when the suburban town of Błonie’s farmers market was selected for the same prize. There, Aleksandra Wasilkowska’s design surprises with the deft interplay between the market’s white structure and

its greenery. That nuanced approach to nature is made manifest to great effect in Park Akcji AK Burza (above), opened in 2023 on a site where rubble from the ruins of Warsaw had been hauled after the Second World War. The designers from local studios Archigrest and Toposcape, rather than clearing the site and planting it anew, kept most of the existing trees and shrubs instead, deciding to let nature take its course. The results have earned Park Akcji AK Burza numerous national awards including as a winner of the European Prize for Urban Public Space •

51 Varso Tower

wy 2 30 m (310 m with spire)

bu 2022 ar Foster and

Partners, HRA Architekci

Palace of Culture and Science wy 231 m bu 1955 ar Lew Rudniew

High-rise Warsaw The skyline had been dominated through the Middle Ages by the Church of the Visitation’s brick belfry in the New Town area, which was surpassed in the sixteenth century by the no longer standing tower of St. John the Baptist Church in the Old Town (today’s cathedral). In the seventeenth century, the extended Royal Castle with its column to King Sigismund III Vasa – the Kolumna Zygmunta – became the symbol of Warsaw’s newly acquired role as royal capital. Tenement houses rarely exceeded three or four floors until the late nineteenth century. Until after the Industrial Revolution, that is, when rapid demographic growth and soaring land prices encouraged builders to aim higher, and new construction methods permitted them to do so (not to men-

Cosmopolitan wy 160 m bu 2014 ar Helmut Jahn

Prudential Building

wy 66 m bub1934 ar Stefan Bryła,

Marcin Weinfeld

Polish Telephone Building (Pasta) wy 51 m bu 1908 ar B ronisław BrochwiczRogoyski

tion the invention of passenger lifts). The latest record was set in 1908 with the tower for the Swedish phone company Cedergren (renamed the PAST tower, then nicknamed Pasta), briefly the continent’s tallest building.

In 1933, the 66-metre art-deco Prudential Building (more recently converted into Hotel Warszawa) reached new heights. In the mid-1950s, the 231-metre Palace of Culture and Science set the bar much higher and then remained the city’s tallest building for decades, topping any of the more recent skyscrapers. That is, until 2022, when the 310-meter Varso Tower was completed, currently the tallest building both in Poland and in the EU •

Sigismund Column wy 22 m bu 1643 ar Agostino Locci, Constantino Tencalla Clock Tower, Royal Castle wy 40 m bu 1622 ar M atteo Castelli, Gaetano Chiaveri St. Mary’s Church, New Town wy 32 m bu 1411 ar U nknown

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Katowice and Silesia

About Change. Silesia is shedding its old skin. The region was built on coal yet is reinventing itself today, taking bold steps in culture and innovation. You can visit art centres in former coal mines and mingle with the crowds at some of Europe’s finest music festivals. Unique start-ups also sprout forth in Katowice. In Silesians’ quest for the new, though, they aren’t neglecting what makes them special: rooted in a dialect differing from the rest of the country, mining traditions of tough, productive labour and post-industrial architecture.

Here and away  Katowice Airport – 24 km  Prague – 330 km Bratislava – 270 km Vienna – 300 km Budapest – 310 km Overview 🛡 1865  279 k  165 km2  9, 105 PLN  51 k

Spodek Arena complex in ­ atowice (1971) and InternationK al Congress Centre, designed

by JEMS Architects (2015)

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In terms of urban age, Katowice is but a baby, with just a century and a half behind it. The city grew up from heavy industry and now forms the heart of the Upper Silesia and Zagłębie Metropolis (GZM).

With 41 contiguous cities and towns across the regions of Upper Silesia and Zagłębie, it comprises the country’s largest metropolitan area (of 2.2 million inhabitants).

As with the EU, rather than being fixed by borders, it is bound by common values, shared history and common challenges.

Struggling still with transitional economic evolution from the industrial to the postindustrial, population decline and evolving age structure, the widespread yet interlinked GZM communalises these issues in seeking common solutions for them.

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Katowice and Silesia

1. Miners in traditional attire during Saint Barbara’s Day, named after their patron: ­Nikiszowiec, Katowice 2. Titled Silesian language for kids, the book clearly shows that local traditions are alive

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A Little Homeland

The past remains preserved at the distinctive industrial-housing complexes of Giszowiec and Nikiszowiec, the characteristic red-brick, multi-family workers’ estates known locally as familoki. These estates attest to Silesia’s layered history as a mineral-rich region, to which the surrounding empires of Russia, Austria and Germany were drawn. They split it up, ruling it until the First World War. These lands were then divided between Poland and Germany until the entire region was incorporated in 1945 into the renewed ­Polish state.

Through all this historical, economic and social turmoil, Silesia has been fortunate in its people, fascinated by their ‘little homeland’. Silesians maintain their language and their grouping according to their unique identity, forged through interacting Polish and German influences. Practically, as it turns out, these emphases on family and a superlative work ethic – traits endemic to the region’s mining tradition – come in very handy when designing architecture, establishing cafes and clubs, and organising music festivals, too!

Gameplay!

Each year at the start of spring, Katowice transforms into world capital of competitive gaming in its iconic Spodek Arena, hosting the world finals for among the

biggest of e-sports championships: Intel Extreme Masters. Recent years have seen a rapidly growing regional gaming industry with major emphasis on attracting digital creative industries to Katowice.

Strategic plans for the city’s future envisage investing in revitalising the former Wieczorek coal mine into what will prove a Digital Valley. This Gaming and Technology Hub aims to provide tech companies, game developers and the e-sports community with a common space in which to organise gaming, tournaments and broadcasts. About a dozen such companies now operate in Katowice, with several dozen in the region. The Hub concept is targeted towards unifying representatives of new technologies in this single place and to luring more companies through meeting their requirements and enabling ongoing development.

Summer in the City

The metropolitan summer in the GZW belongs to music festivals. Katowice coorganises two events of significant international appeal. The OFF Festival (European Festival Award recipient as Best Middlesized Festival) draws some 40,000 alternative-music fans. Tauron Nowa Muzyka (winner as Best Small Festival) has a somewhat smaller audience for whom electronic and experimental music and avant-garde jazz matter •

Katowice and Silesia

3 3. Workshop on computer animation during SummerLab organised by Medialab Katowice 4. Tauron New Music Festival in Katowice’s Cultural Zone 4

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Katowice and Silesia

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Tram Trips through the Metropolis Dominik Tokarski Activist, founder of the Silesia Neon Foundation

I’ve become a fan of tram trips.

For instance, when you take Lines 6 or 19 to Bytom, you don’t even notice that you’ve crossed Katowice’s administrative border and entered Chorzów. It’s worth embarking on these longer trips because Katowice, having undergone significant changes in recent years, spreads that transformation to nearby places within the Upper Silesian and Zagłębie Metropolis. I’ve run a club in Katowice for years, lived in the Superjednostka, among the country’s largest super-

unit residential buildings, and now I’ve chosen Bytom as my home. Here, I rescue and collect Silesian neon signs, which my foundation will gradually restore. The large BYTOM sign, saved from the city’s train station, will soon glow again atop a building as one is entering town. That’s going to be ­something!

Adjacent to Katowice’s Tysiąc­lecia Housing Estate is Silesian Park, which belongs to Chorzów. It is one of Europe’s largest parks (over 600 hectares), and while riding its cable car you can admire it from above. There are plenty of interesting soc-modernist buildings here (the Silesian Planetarium is the most notable), along with outdoor sculptures. I like visiting Tychy and strolling through the A, B and C housing estates, built in the 1950s (estates there take names of letters and street names within them start with

that same letter). In autumn and winter, I enjoy going to Gliwice to recharge at the Palm House and visit my favourite local cafes: Klar, Kafar and Kafo.

For traditional Silesian food in Katowice, I’d take you to Café Byfyj in Nikiszowiec, a historic brick complex built for workers’ families.

My latest Katowice discovery is walking along pond embankments at the border of the Szopienice district and Sosnowiec’s south side. Also consider a picnic on a slag heap: a unique Silesian experience. Slag heaps left over from coal mining have become a distinctive feature across the local landscape. I recommend the Kostuchna heap, where the Boże Dary mine still operates beneath it while the top gives a view of the distant Tatra Mountains. And don’t miss a tram trip on Line 27, where you can experience a journey into the unknown •

Katowice and Silesia 3

2 1. Stroll across the historical district of Nikiszowiec in Katowice (pictured: bag from Gryfnie, a shop specialising in souvenirs from Silesia) 2. Picnic on a Slag Heap, video-performance by Alicja Bielawska and Maria Stokłosa 3. Kapelusz (Hat) Exhibition Centre in the Silesian Park in Chorzów, 1968, designed by Jerzy Gottfried and Włodzimierz Feiferek 4. The headquarters of the Silesia Neon Foundation in Bytom

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Well Designed

What I like about Katowice are its inherent contradictions.

Here, modernist architecture rubs shoulders with cuttingedge buildings, while Silesian working-class housing estates remain an indelible part of the cityscape. To me, it is an inspiring mix. A reason why the best Polish design companies are headquartered in Katowice.

The city is home to the first skyscrapers in Poland, architecture and steel and concrete.

Route of Modernism (Szlak Moderny) features 17 modernist buildings dating back to after the First World War, including a few unparalleled gems, such as Drapacz Chmur (Skyscraper) at 15 Żwirki i Wigury Street, Garrison Church of St Casimir the Prince and Residential Tenement Buildings at 10 PCK Street.

In Katowice, post-war modernism can be found in many buildings from the Communist era. The Spodek, or flying saucer, is a symbol of the city,

but there is also the 187-metre Superjednostka (Superunit), modelled on Le Corbusier’s residential blocks and Osiedle Tysiąclecia, the estate named to commemorate the Polish state’s millennium (popularly known as ‘Tauzen’). They’re for those who prefer innovative solutions over historic town squares.

Culture Zone (Strefa Kultury) is the new symbol of Katowice. Built in the city’s very centre, on the premises of the former Katowice mine, in the area dominated by the International Congress Centre (designed by JEMS Architekci), the headquarters of the Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra (designed by Konior Studio) and the Silesian Museum (designed by Riegler Riewe Architekten). I pass all these edifices every day on the way to my studio, which is not coincidentally located on the ground floor of one of the land-

Joanna Kubieniec Interior designer, architect, resident of the Koszutka district

mark modernist townhouses in downtown Katowice.

But the city is created not just by larger-than-life structures. Local, bottom-up initiatives matter as well. Clothes, books and gadgets with Silesian motifs are to be found in Gryfnie store and Biksa bookshop. For a wide selection of goods and goodies, step also into Krzywa 9 winebar, Słodki Kafej café, Black Woolf Coffee & Books and Lokal Bakery.

Don’t forget to check Poszetka, a local menswear brand and Poszetka Concept, specialists in fashion and design. Most of the interiors have been designed by Katowice-based studios •

Katowice and Silesia

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1. Osiedle Tysiąclecia (Millennial District), Katowice 2. Aleksandra Misiek and Radek Sporysz, hosts of LOKAL Bakery 3. Słodki Kafej cafe

4 4. Route of Modernism in Katowice, 3 Podhorążych Street, 1930s 3

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Katowice and Silesia

Cieszyn: Like a Fruit and Nut Cake Agata Romaniuk Writer, author of the series ­Kocia Szajka (The Cats’ Gang) of bestselling children’s books

Indunature Przemo Łukasik Architect, co-owner of the ­Medusa Group studio. Designer of Katowice’s tallest building – the KTW skyscraper – and the Bolko Loft (above), a criticallyacclaimed his own house in ­Bytom in an adapted lamp room of a former coal mine

The Silesian term ‘Alternatif turistik’ appeared when the Kronika Centre for Contemporary Art in Bytom published Marcin Doś and Radek Ćwieląg’s guide to post-industrial areas. Buildings that couldn’t be photographed until recently become (unofficially) accessible to visitors. I often explore these sites with a group that bands together on Internet forums.

We move on bicycles from one old factory to another, play turbo golf there, and admire the structures’ beauty. Today, after 20 years of living in the Bolko

Loft, I know that rehabilitating post-industrial buildings and giving them new life is a way to preserve them in the cityscape and maintain historical continuity. In the face of the climate crisis, it is also a responsible use of existing structures. I am pleased with positive decisions to allocate EU funds to projects including the Szombierki Power Plant and Krystyna Shaft.

These places have sentimental value and great functional potential. There is no future without respect for the past and an understanding of our heritage •

Katowice and Silesia

What draws me most to Cieszyn is its dual nature. Along with the fact that the town spans both sides of the Olza River, connecting Polish and Czech lands in a harmonious way. And that today, despite its history of division, it’s a place where the two sides blend more than ever. During the Covid-19 pandemic, when borders were closed, the Czechs of Těšín displayed a banner on their bank of the river: ‘I miss you, Pole.’ In response, the Poles hung their own banner: ‘I miss you, Czech.’ I love Cieszyn for its multicultural heritage. For centuries, Poles, Germans, Jews and Czechs have lived here, creating a rich mix of languages, religions – Catholic and Protestant – and traditions.

You taste this diversity in the local food: Silesian dishes, Cieszyn-style variations, and even the ‘Kaiser diet’. Influences of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and the Silesian Piasts can be traced everywhere. Cieszyn is like a well-made fruit and nut cake, full of different ingredients blending together perfectly.

The town’s small size is another charm.

It’s a ‘15-minute city’ where you can reach anything within a short walk from the market square – whether it’s a theatre, cinema, hospital, school, playground or cafe.

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There’s also the Zamek Centre for Culture in Cieszyn (above) and the wonderful ­Kornel and Friends bookstore, which offers a unique way of experiencing literature. Plus the mountains are nearby, so you can enjoy a Viennese coffee in the square and head out for a hike.

The people here are accustomed to diversity. This has made them open, curious and deeply rooted in their identity. They refer to themselves as my sóm z tela, meaning ‘we’re from here’. Through changing times – whether under Poland, AustroHungary, or Communism.As the famed poet and Nobel laureate Wisława Szymborska, a frequent visitor to Cieszyn, said of the town: ‘People here seem more inclined to look each other in the eye.’ •

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Katowice and Silesia

1. New Silesian Museum in Katowice, designed by Riegler Riewe Architekten

2. The Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra’s concert hall designed by Tomasz Konior, considered to have some of the best acoustics in Europe

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Katowice above and below ground

The Silesian Museum’s main building boasts seven floors, three of which are underground •

1890 Ferdynand 1913 Coal Mine Wujek 473 m Coal Mine 1934 Wujek 540 m Coal Mine 613 m

73 m

1962 Wujek Coal Mine 680 m

90 m

1970 Staszic Coal Mine 720 m

99 m

105 m

1981 Wujek Coal Mine 730 m

125 m

2011 MurckiStaszic Coal Mine 980 m Adapted from infographic by Medialab Katowice for the Apetyt na radykalną zmianę (An appetite for a radical change), Katowice 1865–2015 exhibition

W KT

er ap cr ys Sk

62 m

83 m

22 20

34 19

r pe ra sc ky sS tu er w Al To 03 ce 20 ffi O s ce er in ap ov cr Pr ys 85 Sk 19 rt g po in ex ild al Bu St ay 81 19 ilw k Ra oc e bl at g St in 74 us er 19 w ho To R HP ce ffi 68 O 19 70 a sk cu an Fr

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Katowice’s tallest buildings and deepest coal mines

The new Silesian Museum complex located at the site of the former Katowice Coal Mine.

The nineteenth-century mine has been merged with contemporary exhibition spaces located below ground.

134 m

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Tri-city

Gdańsk, Gdynia, Sopot A sea of possibilities. Poland’s Tri-city is an urban phenomenon. A conurbation with a population of over a million centred around multiple hubs, it is, first and foremost, a unique arrangement of three cities, each with an entirely distinct character. Gdańsk is the cradle of the freedom movement that overthrew communism in Europe. Sopot – a thriving, elegant seaside resort town. And Gdynia, a lively port city notable for its modernist buildings from the 1930s. The SKM commuter rail system links these centres and makes it easy for visitors and residents alike to appreciate the distinct flavour of the trio.

Here and away  Gdańsk Airport – 11 km*  Warsaw – 300 km* Berlin – 405 km* Vilnius – 430 km* Stockholm – 555 km*

* Distances from Gdańsk Gdańsk Overview 🛡 1264  487 k  258 km2  8,915 pln  67 k Gdynia Overview 🛡 1926  241 k  135 km2  7,890 pln  11 k Sopot Overview 🛡 1901  32 k  17 km2  8,478 pln  3k

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Gdańsk

City of Freedom The first stop is Długi Targ (Long Market) in the Old Town of Gdańsk, with the Renaissance City Hall and the Artus Court where merchants once met. The Old Town, largely rebuilt after the Second World War, recalls the mercantile power of a port centre with a long history, where Slavic and German influences continually intermingled. Gdańsk was a royal city and a member of the Hanseatic League – a group of Baltic and North Sea ports and mercantile centres operating from the Middle Ages. Gdańsk is also where the war began in 1939, and it is here that the Museum of the Second World War commemorates that history.

The legendary Gdańsk Shipyard was the site of a strike action led by the charismatic electrician Lech Wałęsa, the Nobel Peace Prize winner and former president of Poland.

The strike, which led to the creation of the Solidarity independent trade union, marked the beginning of the end of communism in this part of Europe. You will want to stop by the old shipyard when visiting the European Solidarity Centre and observe how social and artistic initiatives are sprouting in the Tri-city known as Młode Miasto (Young City) •

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Tri-city – Gdańsk, Gdynia, Sopot

1 1. Designed by Fort Architekci, the European Solidarity ­Centre is on the premises of the former shipyard in Gdańsk

2. Port Gdańsk – the largest Polish port, and still one of the top European trans-shipment seaports. At present, its annual capacity is 36 million tons of

petroleum and 4 million tons of petroleum products. The port is scheduled for re-development and expansion

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Tri-city – Gdańsk, Gdynia, Sopot

Nocturnal Bathing in the Baltic Łukasz L.U.C. Rostkowski Composer, producer, art director of the BrassWood Fest and the Rebel Babel Film Orchestra, wrote the score for The Peasants, candidate for the Academy Award for Best International Feature Film

67 The Tri-city is a magical land of unique haunts and spots.

My rituals involve walks from Orłowo (below) to Sopot and returning through an ancient forest that unites the entire Tri-city. It is in these forests, in the hidden Forest Opera, that we organise our BrassWood Fest. Deep in the forests, there are also loads of enduro bicycle trails created by Big Foot Works. These forests, with their diversity, biosystem, rivulets like the Swelina or the Kacza, are a world-class gem. And of course, the F. Minga restaurant in Gdynia, 100cznia in Gdańsk, sauna and night-time bathing in the Baltic by the M15 restaurant in Sopot. And plenty of other hangouts, such as leafy Piaskownica, Diuna, Bulaj, Cały Gaweł, or Sierakowski Manor House. After all, the Tri-city deserves a book rather than a couple of sentences. Proper stomping ground, no less •

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1 Gdynia Film Center (1) – a signature building, typified by its monolithic shape and white glass front, constitutes an important cultural meeting place in the centre of Gdynia. GCF is the headquarters of the Gdynia Film School and an arthouse cinema. Home to the annual Gdynia Film Festival – the largest and the most prestigious film event in Poland •

Montownia (2) is one of the most spectacular revitalisation projects to have been conducted in recent years in Gdańsk.

Legend has it that U-boots, German military submarines, were assembled here. The building was too small and in fact served as a warehouse. Now, it houses a food zone with a wide selection of restaurants, bars and art installations, topped by a hotelcum-conference space •

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Tri-city – Gdańsk, Gdynia, Sopot

Have Some Fish (and More) Małgorzata Muraszko Food and culture journalist, @miejscowka_trojmiasto

The Tri-city abounds in appetising titbits. Local Polish seaside nosh is served by the Michelin-certified Tygle Gdańskie (Gdańsk – 2), Maniera (Gdańsk), Masło Maślane (Gdańsk – 1), a Polish cuisine 2 concept restaurant, Kubicki (Gdańsk), a cult restaurant founded over a century ago and Oberża 86 (Gdynia), where Polish and Kashubian cooking meets French cuisine. Standout places that will delight all foodies are Michelin-star restaurants, such as Arco (Gdańsk), housed on the 33rd floor of the Olivia Star skyscraper, Eliksir (Gdańsk), awarded a green Michelin star for its sustainability, and restaurants recommended

by Michelin for fusing Pol4 ish and European cuisine: Fino (Gdańsk), Fisherman (Sopot), and Niesztuka (Gdańsk – 3). The Tri-city doesn’t shy away from fish. For the freshest, check the seaside spots, including Przystań (Sopot – 4), Centrala Rybna (Sopot), ­Piaskownica (Sopot) and Diuna (Sopot). While at the sea, you simply can’t miss waffles and cream rolls. For the best waffles, head to Pod Arkadami (Sopot), Małe Molo (Sopot) and Bosko (Gdynia). And if a cream roll is more up your alley, visit Słony Karmel (Gdańsk, Gdynia), Paradowski patisserie (Gdańsk) and Rusz­czyk ice cream parlour (Gdynia) • 1

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Sopot

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Resort with Attitude Second stop: Sopot. This landmark resort town, the best-known on this side of the Baltic, has retained its atmosphere of verdant parks and signature villas. The longest wooden pier in Europe, the marina and white sandy beaches make Sopot such a tourist attraction. It is also known for the carefree cafe life which thrives year-round along the city’s main pedestrian zone, Bohaterów Monte Cassino Street, popularly known as ‘Monciak’. Escape from the crowds of holidaymakers down the side streets, full of well-preserved architecture dating back to earlier centuries as well as spas surrounded by lush green areas. Sopot has cultural life too, such as Sopot Jazz Festival •

Tri-city – Gdańsk, Gdynia, Sopot

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1. The Sopot Pier is the longest construction of its kind on the Baltic coast. Its function has changed throughout its history: from a local marina to an element of a seaplane terminal to a passenger bridge for ocean liners to today’s role as a promenade with a yacht marina at its end 2. Forest Opera – concerts and events in such a unique location acquire extra dimension, becoming truly special

3. Sopot is a spa town, full of historic villas where tourists can stay. On the most farthest part of the Sopot pier, the concentration of iodine is twice the amount available on the land 4. Sopot also boasts the only seaside hippodrome in Poland, which offers horse-riding schools and equestrian tournaments

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Tri-city – Gdańsk, Gdynia, Sopot

Gdynia

Polish Bauhaus 1

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The youngest of the three cities, Gdynia was developed on the site of an old fishing village in the 1920s and 1930s, and it is characterised by modernist structures built in the Bauhaus spirit of the period (Main Post Office Building, 10 Lutego Street – 1, BGK Housing Estate, 3 Maja Street – 3).

The city was built as a huge project by the reborn state, which needed a port free of the German influences that had predominated in Gdańsk. Gdynia was erected in just over a decade as a modern port and industrial complex, and it continues to function as such to this day. The city also hosts several excellent cultural festivals, including the Open’er Festival (4 & 5), among the best in Europe, the Ladies’ Jazz Festival and the Globaltica World Cultures Festival •

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2. Museum ship Dar Pomorza (Gift of Pomerania). Built in 1909, this three-masted sailing ship served in the Polish Merchant Navy from the 1930s to the 1980s. Used as a training ship for the students at the Maritime School in Gdynia, it is now a museum display, moored at the Pomorskie Quay in Gdynia.

Among the most important

treasures of twentieth-century Polish maritime heritage.

6. The current seat of the Gdynia City Museum is a bright modern sandstone building located where the sea and land meet. Pictured: exhibition of work by Jakub Szczęsny, one of the most interesting contemporary architects

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Hel and Baltic coast The Baltic Sea constitutes Poland’s northern border (683 km), providing access to the Atlantic Ocean. Tourists flock to the sandy beaches every summer.

A distinctive part of the coast is the Hel Peninsula, 34 kilometres in length, 175 metres at its narrowest, situated between Jastarnia and Kuźnica.

A railway track and a bicycle trail run along the entire peninsula. Hel, the most northern town in Poland, is well connected with Gdynia, Gdańsk and Sopot by ferry. An ideal surfing spot

Tri-city – Gdańsk, Gdynia, Sopot

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Kraków Here and away A city that never sleeps.  Kraków Airport – 11 km Kraków is a dignified Gothic and  Warsaw – 255 km Bratislava – 295 km Vienna – 330 km Renaissance royal city, proud of Budapest – 295 km its traditions, crowned by the Overview Wawel Royal Castle, where for🛡 1257  806 k mer rulers of Poland were laid  327 km2  9,223 PLN to rest for eternity. Located on  123 k important trade routes, Kraków has always been a hub where various cultures have met since the Middle Ages. Additionally, it is renowned as a centre of science and art, attracting intellectuals and artists from different regions. But Kraków is also Poland’s party capital, drawing throngs of international tourists hungering to tour the city’s impressive landmarks and thirsting for fun and entertainment.

77 Main Market Square in Kraków with Saint Mary’s Basilica

You can see the traditional faces of Kraków by strolling down the Royal Route, which runs from the Barbican,

by St. Mary’s Basilica, home of Veit Stoss’s Gothic altarpiece, to the Renaissance-era Royal Castle at Wawel. The former Jewish district of Kazimierz presents an entirely different impression: after years of decline, it became a hotbed

of trendy and atmospheric eating and drinking spots alluding to the mood and character of the area before the Holocaust. The post-industrial Zabłocie neighbourhood has also become a fashionable district, since the MOCaK Museum of Contemporary Art was opened in the former Oskar Schindler enamelware factory, sparking the district’s revitalization •

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Kraków

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Symbolic Memory Kraków was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978, and as the former royal capital it has always enjoyed vast importance for Polish tradition, culture and memory – particularly symbolic memory, connected to national identity. The Wawel Cathedral (above, with Wawel Royal Castle complex) became the first national pantheon, with

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the tombs of nearly all of the kings and their families. The first crowned ruler to rest there was Władysław ‘Elbow-high’ Łokietek, who died in 1333. Over succeeding centuries, Kraków became the burial place for outstanding figures from culture and science, national bards and leaders. The role of a national mausoleum was taken over in

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the nineteenth century by the nearby Crypt of Distinguished Poles at Skałka, now the resting place of Karol Szymanowski, Stanisław Wyspiański, Czesław Miłosz and others.

Pictured: Gothic polychrome inside Saint Mary’s Basilica (1); Wawel Royal Castle complex (2), Rynek Underground Museum, below the Main Market Square (3) and Lajkonik (4) – one of the symbols of Kraków, a reminder of a legend of saving the city from Mongol invaders in 1287 •

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Kraków

The Capital of Art and Nightlife

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We go to Kraków to enjoy the city’s nightlife – in bars and eateries, in the streets, and at cultural festivals. And to soak up arts and culture in all their diversity – from Gothic to Art Nouveau to Modernity. Enumerating all the events that the city has to offer is impossible.

Still, putting in your calendar the following festivals is highly recommended: Jewish Culture Festival, Kraków Film Festival – specialising in documentaries and animations, Kraków Film Music Festival, two musical stalwarts: Sacrum Profanum and Unsound, as well Kraków Photomonth, which – as its name suggests – is a cyclical event devoted to photography.

To cross the Vistula River and to visit two of today’s centres of culture – Cricoteka and MOCaK Museum of Contemporary Art – take the Bernatka footbridge.

And feel invited to return to Kraków in December to delight in the Christmas Market in the Main Square •

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Kraków 3

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1. MOCaK Museum of Contemporary Art in the former Oskar Schindler factory 2. Targowa 2 bistro, Stare Podgórze district of Kraków 3. Wianki Festival 4. Cricoteka on Nadwiślańska Street – the Tadeusz Kantor museum and contemporary cultural institution, designed by IQ2 Konsorcjum 5. The Jewish Culture Festival goes out to the streets and squares of Kraków

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Kraków Tranquil Oasis Zakrzówek is a picturesque lake situated among the Twardowski cliffs, just a short distance from the Vistula River and approximately 20 minutes from the city centre. Historically, the area was a quarry site, but after operations ceased, the pit was filled with water, creating a stunning lake that has become a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. Today, Zakrzówek is renowned for its crystal-clear waters, ideal for scuba diving and exploring the underwater world. The surrounding cliffs provide a dramatic backdrop for rock climbing and hiking.

In recent years, Kraków has invested in developing the Zakrzówek area, enhancing its appeal as a recreational and tourist destination. The city has constructed modern swimming pools and a water park, offering a variety of aquatic activities for visitors of all ages •

More than a Marketplace Situated in the heart of Kraków, Stary Kleparz is a bustling marketplace that has been a cornerstone of the city’s life for centuries. Its history dates to the Middle Ages when it was established as a hub for trade and commerce. Over the years, the market has witnessed countless transformations, reflecting the changing fortunes of the city and its people.

Beyond its commercial significance, Stary Kleparz holds a special place in the hearts of residents. It’s more than just a marketplace; it’s a vibrant social hub where people come together to shop, chat and connect. The market’s diverse offerings, ranging from fresh local produce and foreign delicacies flowers to pots and

kitchen accessories, cater to a wide range of tastes and preferences. A Saturday morning shopping trip to Kleparz has become an unofficial tradition,

where locals and visitors alike mingle over coffee and browse the stalls •

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Kraków

What Makes Kraków Kraków Kraków is the only major city in Poland that was spared by both the First and the Second World Wars. This means that its landmarks are intact in their entirety, which – given the complexity of local history – is rare. And although the city is at present part of the EU, one can recall with ease that it used to be a member of numerous, very much different unions in the past. To start with, it belonged to the Hanseatic League – a commercial network of market towns and merchant guilds founded in mediaeval Europe. And it may not be on the seaside, but it connects to the Baltic through the Vistula, which served as ‘the highway of the Middle Ages’. Kraków was also part and parcel of the Polish-Lithuanian Union, the remarkable commonwealth of two nations that jointly became an empire, and one of the most powerful countries in the sixteenth-century Europe. That’s

Robert Makłowicz Journalist, culinary critic

what makes Kraków Kraków – the city bears the mental imprint of erstwhile might and openness. Admittedly, the city of today is inhabited not just by those with 500 years’ worth of family roots, but this is yet another merit: primarily, it is a place embraced by the younger generation – by IT professionals. So, not a staid bourgeois city, but a springy, thriving metropolis, supported by its unusually sturdy historical foundations that never cease to influence its long-time residents and newcomers alike.

And now for more titbits about Kraków’s hospitality: Józef Dietl, a Polonised Austrian, was the city’s first mayor, followed by Mikołaj Zyblikiewicz, an Ukrainian, or – to use the parlance of the day – a Ruthenian. The city opened its arms to a diversity of nations.

Conservative though it may seem, Kraków practices a progressive form of conservatism: it is attached to the past, but it looks to the future at the same time •

Nowa Huta Now a district of the city, was built in Stalinist times as a separate workers’ city with a huge steel mill complex, to serve as a counterweight to the conservative intelligentsia traditions of Kraków. It was designed to be Poland’s first fully socialist city, beautiful and comfortable, but also a symbolic stronghold of the proletariat, a guidepost on the way to the Sovietisation that the whole country was supposed to be striving for. This stratagem of the Communist authorities backfired, and Nowa Huta became a major centre for the Solidarity opposition movement. It stands today as a curiosity for fans of utopian architecture and urban planning •

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Tatry

2,499 m The highest point in Poland is the Rysy peak in the Tatras.

Forming a natural border between Poland and Slovakia, the Tatras cover an area of 785 km2, of which an area of 175 km2 is located on the ­Polish side •

Kraków

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The beauty and healthy climate of the Tatra Mountains has drawn tourists since the late nineteenth century, when Zakopane became a popular resort town. To this day, it is known as Poland’s winter capital.

The Tatra Mountains are one great curiosity on the natural map of Poland.

The highest Polish peaks and the deepest caves are located here. Only here, snow in the middle of summer is nothing strange.

Only here, deep postglacial lakes are frozen for six months. Thanks to this, we can find many treasures in the Tatras which cannot be found anywhere else. This is the only place where the stone pine forests grow, and the edelweiss, saxifrage, gentian, and pasque flower bloom in such great numbers. This is the only place where chamois, marmots, and snowy voles live.

Apart from the wild Bieszczady Mountains, our ancestors never managed to exterminate bears only in the Tatra Mountains.

This is the only place where wallcreepers build their nests in the crevices of rocks.

Nowhere else do the golden eagles look as majestic as against the background of inaccessible mountain peaks. In addition, one can find here plenty of traces of the unique culture of the Podhale highlanders (górale) that arose from the centuries-old pastoral tradition and the struggle for survival on the rocky ground •

Where the Wilds and Our Care Rule Szymon Ziobrowski Managing director, Tatra National Park

The Tatras are Poland’s tallest, most majestic mountains, and encourage everyone to discover natural beauty and our nearness to wilderness environ-

ments. The range stands out for its unique landscape and for the rich diversity of its flora and fauna, and these have been fascinating tourists, scientists and nature enthusiasts for generations. The Tatra National Park protects these natural treasures, and maintains hiking routes that traverse scenic valleys and climb the highest peaks.

Trekking in the Tatras is unforgettable, an experience that will endure in your heart. Let’s remember, meanwhile, that their uniqueness imparts on us a responsibility. The range

isn’t just territory to explore – it’s home to various rare plant and animal species, large and small. Through preserving this elaborate, sensitive ecosystem, we can enjoy its beauty while handing it along to future generations. You’re certainly invited to visit the Tatras, and to appreciate our call for care of and respect for its untamed world. Let’s all admire it from the assigned trails and strive not to leave any traces behind as we marvel •

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Wieliczka Wieliczka Salt Mine near Kraków. One of the first twelve sites to be added to UNESCO’s World Cultural and Natural Heritage List in 1978. The nine-level underground city has its own well developed infrastructure and is more than 700 years old

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Kraków

UNESCO City of Literature In 2013, Kraków was the seventh city in the world to have received the title of UNESCO City of Literature awarded by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization. The awarding of the prestigious title was an expression of recognition for heritage and contemporary literary potential, but it also became a strong impulse for further development and strengthening of the local book market.

Since that time Kraków has hosted numerous festivals and events with recognised authors and poets as well as literature influencers and literary activists from all over the world. But it is also known as a city of winners of the Nobel Prize in Literature.

Henryk Sienkiewicz, the Nobel Laureate in 1905, published his acclaimed novel Quo Vadis in instalments in the local newspaper Czas. Władysław Stanisław Reymont, the 1924 Nobel laureate and author of The Promised Land (1899) and The Peasants (1904–9), was a regular visitor to Kraków. The 1980 laureate Czesław Miłosz, an acclaimed poet, prose writer and essayist, author of The Captive Mind (1953) and Native Realm (1959), chose to spend his later years in Kraków.

Wisława Szymborska, author of poetry volumes such as Calling Out to Yeti (1957) and People on the Bridge (1986), lived here most of her life; she was awarded the literary Nobel in 1996.

The city was also Poland’s first city to hold scriptoria, libraries and printing houses. It is currently home to dozens of libraries and publishing houses •

Key literary festivals Conrad Festival, the largest international literary event in Poland, which features discussions, workshops and readings from internationally acclaimed authors.

Miłosz Festival honours the legacy of Nobel laureate Czesław Miłosz, focusing on poetry and contemporary literature through a series of events that engage both local and international literary communities.

The city offers a variety of literary scholarships and residencies aimed at supporting emerging writers and fostering creativity. The Kraków UNESCO City of Literature Residency Programme, coordinated by the Kraków Festival Office in collaboration with

Festiwal Małej Literatury (Small Literature Festival) highlights children’s literature, offering workshops, author meetings and activities designed to foster a love of reading among young audiences.

Kongres Futurologiczny (­Futurology Congress) explores future trends in literature and culture, bringing together writers, scholars and futurists to discuss the evolving landscape of literary expression • the Villa Decius Institute for Culture, provides two-month residencies for prose writers, poets, playwrights and translators. This programme allows selected participants to live and work at the historic Villa Decius, where they can focus on their literary projects •

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Kraków Relies on Tourism

8.5

million tourists

from Poland and abroad visit Kraków every year

6.7

is spent by tourists each year

Visitors by nationality English 27 % German 10.3 % Italian 8.6 % Spanish 7.6 % French 6.3 % American (US) 3.5 % Swedish 2.8 % Ukrainian 2.8 % Norwegian 2.8 % Hungarian 2.3 % Dutch 2.3 % Austrian 2.3 %

billion pln

Czech 1.8 % Irish 1.5 % Finnish 1.5 % Greek 1.5 % Slovak 1.3 % Canadian 1 % Belgian 1 % Turkish 1 % Danish 1 % Israeli 0.5% Japanese 0.3%

20% of Krakovians are employed in tourism

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Łódź Creative Łódź. Compared to other Polish cities, Łódź has a rather unusual history. Despite being officially recognised from the Middle Ages onward, it was not until the nineteenth century that its population increased dramatically. By the outbreak of the First World War, Łódź’s population had risen from only a few hundred to half a million.

The reason behind this growth was the Industrial Revolution which turned Łódź into one of Europe’s leading textile production centres. This feat was accomplished by Poles, Germans, Jews and Russians alike.

Here and away  Łódź Airport – 7 km  Warsaw – 120 km Berlin – 425 km Prague – 400 km Overview 🛡 1423  652 k  293 km2  7,428 PLN  69 k

OFF Piotrkowska Center in a ­revitalised factory on Łódź’s main street – Piotrkowska.

A popular haunt with street food, shops and offices

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Łódź

fields are held here, such as the Łódź Many During the Communist period, the Łódź Cultures Festival, Fotofestiwal, Łódź Design, Film School was founded in the city. Since Soundedit, Ravekyavik and International then, this educational institution has Festival of Comics and Games. The latter taught many of Poland’s famous film makbeing the biggest and oldest comics event ers, including Andrzej Wajda, Roman in Poland and Central-Eastern Polański and Krzysztof Kieślowski.

Europe is now based in EC1 postHowever, the political changes of 1989 industrial complex – the resulted in the collapse of the textile industry – causing the city to fall into decline. Yet city’s first power plant – which has been turned Łódź has recently been undergoing someinto the region’s flagship thing of a regeneration and has started centre of film, popular to re-discover its creative and innovative culture, games and interspirit. Diverse large-scale events that attract creative individuals from a variety of active narratives •

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1. Dzień Dobry, bo w Łodzi (Good day because it’s in Łodź) – mural by Katarzyna Bogucka, Łódź Fabryczna Railway Station 2. EC1 – a building complex including the Centre for Science and Technology, Planetarium and Centre for Comics and Interactive ­Narrative

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Polish Cinema’s Promised Land Andrzej Munk  1951

Andrzej Wajda  1953

Kazimierz Karabasz The Musicians Lion of San Marco, Venice 🏆 1959  Roman Polański

1960 Roman Polański Knife in the Water Cul-de-sac dir. Roman Polański Golden Bear, Berlin fm 🏆 1962 1963 1966 1967  🏆 Jerzy Skolimowski Jerzy Skolimowski Le départ Golden Bear, Berlin Tango The Promised Land dir. Zbigniew dir. Andrzej Wajda Rybczyński fm fm 1975 Man of Iron dir. Andrzej Wajda Zbigniew Legend fm Rybczyński Andrzej Wajda Tango 🏆 Awards Man of Iron Oscar, Best fm Premieres Golden Palm, Cannes Animated Short  Graduation of filmmakers Jan Jakub Kolski 🏆 🏆  1981 1982 1983 1984 1985  🏆 Piotr Kielar Ilona Łepkowska Krzysztof Zanussi  A Year of the Quiet Sun Three Colours: Blue Golden Lion, Venice dir. Krzysztof Kieślowski Pan

fm Golden Lion, Venice 🏆 1993

Tadeusz dir. Andrzej Wajda fm 1998 1999  Małgorzata Szumowska

Andrzej Wajda Honorary Golden Bear, Berlin 🏆 2006 Ida Cinematography: Ryszard Lenczewski, Łukasz Żal fm 2013

Roman Polański The Pianist Golden Palm, Cannes 🏆 2002 2003 🏆 Roman Polański The Pianist Oscar, Best Director

Body/Ciało dir. Małgorzata Szumowska fm 2015

Jagoda Szelc  2018

2000

🏆 Andrzej Wajda Academy Honorary Award IO dir. Jerzy Skolimowski, Jury Prize, Cannes 🏆 2022

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Łódź

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City of the Avant-garde For years Łódź has been an exceptional place for filmmakers. The urban fabric of the city is mostly made of former factory buildings which lend themselves perfectly to artistic initiatives. Even though the slogan ‘the city of film’ has become somewhat outdated, Łódź maintains its cinematic tradition.

Apart from attending regular film screenings in the Film School and summer-long free outdoor projections under the name of Polówka (1), it is worth visiting the Tatry Cinema – one of the oldest operating cinemas in Poland (established in 1907).

There is no doubt the city’s avant-garde heritage is still very much present. Łódź boasts the the oldest modern-art museum in Poland and the second oldest in the world, just after New York’s MoMA – Muzeum Sztuki. In its three locations (ms1, ms2, Herbst Palace) you’ll learn about Polish and European modern artists and

2 see exhibitions that combine twentieth-century artworks with contemporary pieces that are engaged in current social issues. Take an art stroll down Gdańska Street between two museum locations: start in ms2, located in Manufaktura, a shopping mall in the former industrial complex founded by textile magnate Izrael Poznański and finish in the Maurycy Poznański Palace – now home to ms1. The major crowd-puller of ms1 is the Neoplastic Room (2), designed

by Władysław Strzemiński, a pioneer of constructivist

avant-garde of the 1920s and 1930s, developer of the theory of unism and co-founder of a.r. group. His collection of art was donated to the museum as a gift, on which the institution was in fact founded. The museum’s signature exhibition dedicated to the theme of space features sculptures of Katarzyna Kobro, a prominent visual artist. It is not an exception here that palaces serve as cultural institutions. Another one, once owned by the Scheibler Family, is the seat of the Łódź Film Museum •

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Łódź

True Spirit Justyna Banaszczyk Sound artist, cultural manager, co-founder of Radio Kapitał – Poland’s first community radio

It seems that Łódź (like many contemporary cities) lives by its own legend. The first raves in Poland, mythical clubs, the vibrant music scene, and a well-represented counterculture (industrial, hardcore punk, or EBM) – all of this is now in the past. Little remains of the legend apart from the ‘spirit’ that still hovers over the city.

The grassroots cultural fabric is being eroded by aggressive gentrification and misguided urban policies that, instead of revitalising (read: rejuvenating) the city, effectively sterilise it.

However, there are still a few remaining strongholds of organic, grassroots culture that are worth visiting and supporting.

Independent art galleries, such as Czynna, W Y, Galeria Portretu, S35 or the truly legendary and still operating Wschodnia (one of the oldest independent galleries in Poland), are highly recommended. Be sure to check out Cyrk Pod Zielonym Xieżycem – an artist-run space that serves as a studio, a venue for c ­ ommunity activities, concerts, and an independent theatre stage.

An interesting place is Ignoran­tka (pictured). Located in an unconventional spot in Stare Polesie, it is a ‘haven’ for artists involved in experimental music, sound art and community-­oriented approaches to arts and culture •

Backstreets of Łódź Łódź’s Bałuty district, infamous for its dodgy reputation, plays a central role in the works of c ­ omic-book writer Robert Popielecki and local photographer Łukasz z Bałut. Some backstreets welcome you with wonders, other – just like a time machine – unveil the history of the industrial period (there are still some wooden houses in the Bałuty district) or the posttransformational early 1990s.

Whichever path you choose, a stroll around Łódź’s backstreets gives you a good feel for the city.

Make sure to visit the Bałucki Market for food straight from the farmers and for flea-market trinkets! •

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Łódź

Fashionable City Having been born out of the textile trade, Łódź still continues its clothing traditions, yet now along more creative rather than industrial ones. To get to know the local fashion scene visit Tomasz Armada's showroom in the Księży Młyn neighbourhood. Vogue in the US has listed him among 27 most interesting young designers in the world. His designs are inspired by Polishness and sewn only with pre-used materials, sourced from secondhand stores or decayed sewing rooms from the times when Łódź was a textile empire. The spirit of those times is brought to life by the Central Museum of Textiles, housed at the former Ludwik Geyer Factory, where you can still see historic spin-

ning and weaving machines and exhibitions by contemporary artists working with textiles.

As befits its name, every three years the International Triennial of Tapestry is organised here.

It is the oldest and the most important presentation of phenomena connected with the medium of textiles. The Central Museum of Textiles is also home for Abakans – huge textile sculpture-like compositions

by Magdalena Abakanowicz, which have recently re-gained international recognition after being included in the Alexander McQueen show at the 2023 Paris Fashion Week •

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Łódź

1. Exhibition of works by Arkadius – one of the most widely known Polish fashion designers, Central Museum of Textiles 2. Pan tu nie stał – a Łódź-based clothing and textile company.

In 2024, PTNS opened a shop combined with a cafe in the newly refurbished part of the former Ramisch Factory, now Off Piotrkowska. It offers a wide variety of hip clothing and accessories inspired by Poland’s Communist-era aesthetics.

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3. Tomasz Armada – one of the more interesting young fashion designers in the world, according to Vogue in US (2021). His upcycled clothes draw on the history and culture of Łódź 4. Łódź City Culture Park – an open-air ethnographic exhibition next to the Central Museum of Textiles; pictured: the recently renovated early 20th-century summer villa 5. The Central Museum of Textiles organises displays of 19th-century textile machines in motion

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Łódź 1

1. Księży Młyn (Priest’s Mill) – is a large neighbourhood, which has survived almost untouched since the city’s industrial heyday. Karol W. Scheibler, one of the city’s eminent 19th-century factory owners, built this factory and residential complex as a city within the city. Now you’ll find a local specialty coffee maker, restaurants, artists’ studios and the independent art gallery Pracownia Portertu.

2. Procession of the Magi on Piotrkowska, the main street of Łódź. It’s one of the longest commercial streets in Europe (4.2 kilometres), partially closed to traffic •

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Poznański’s Empire The great textile-producing families, such as the Poznańskis, the Scheiblers, the Heinzs, the Herbsts and the Biedermanns left behind monumental palaces. The most impressive of them is the one that belonged to the Poznański Family (1). Due to its magnificent architectural details, it has been dubbed ‘The Louvre of Łódź’. This is where the Museum of the City of Łódź (2) is located. Izrael Poznański was laid to rest in the city’s Jewish Cemetery. Established in 1892, it is among the largest Jewish necropolises in Europe.

Across almost 40 hectares, among more than 8,000 trees, there are 160,000 marked graves, as well as mass graves of victims of the Litzmannstadt Ghetto and the Holocaust.

Most of the tombstones are matzevot, but along the main avenue there are stately family tombs. One of them, the art -nouveau mausoleum of Izrael Poznański (3), is perhaps the largest Jewish tomb in the world and the only one containing a decorative mosaic •

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Olsztyn and Warmia

Eco-city. Olsztyn grew in lands once inhabited by pagan Prussian tribes who worshipped trees, and the city retains a close tie to nature. Unmatched anywhere else in Europe, it has numerous lakes within city limits and an urban forest of over a thousand hectares, and recently added Poland’s largest inland urban beach. All of this combines with the complex multicultural heritage of the region to create an intriguing mixture.

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101 Ukiel Lake – the largest lake in the Olsztyn region (there are as many as 11 lakes here). In the winter, sauna or a hot tub with a view to die for are not to be missed, while kayaking or sailing is a must in the summer

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Olsztyn and Warmia

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The first impression when arriving in Olsztyn is a picturesque view of red rooftops peeking out from a sea of greenery, a sight that even the modern tower blocks in the city centre can’t obscure. The city is crowned by the medieval Warmia Bishopric Castle, built by the Teutonic Order, and later managed by Polish bishops.

Now part of the European Route of Brick Gothic, this castle was defended by Copernicus during the sixteenth century when he served as a canon in Warmia.

A remarkable artifact at the castle is the Sun observation table, drawn by Copernicus on one of its walls.

These landmarks serve as reminders of Warmia’s intricate history, where Catholicism and Protestantism intersected, as did Slavic and Germanic cultures. Before Second World War, Warmia and Olsztyn (then known as Allenstein) were part of German Prussia, but since 1945, they have belonged to Poland.

Olsztyn, with its natural beauty, is well-positioned to become an eco-friendly city, increasingly turning to green technologies, renewable energy and low-emission public transport like its extensive tram network.

Olsztyn is also recognised as Poland’s ice sailing capital, producing numerous world champions and hosts the Olsztyn Green Festival, one of the greenest music festivals in the country • 3

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Olsztyn and Warmia 2

1. Olsztyn Green Festival takes place every summer at Lake Ukiel 2. Townhouse at Bema Square 3. Early medieval stone statue of the so-called Prussian Biddy from the village of Barciany, courtyard of the Warmia Bishopric Castle 4. The medieval Warmia Bishopric Castle 5. 2015 saw the return of the city’s tram system

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Zatorze District Beyond the picturesque Ukiel and Długie Lakes as well as the charming Old Town, there are two scenic districts with a nostalgic, old-world charm: the Dąbrowszczaków area and Zatorze (6). The streets of Dąbrowszczaków and Mickiewicza are lined with beautiful townhouses, many of which survived Second World War. Zatorze is quite exceptional: a peaceful district filled with historic townhouses, parks and greenery, where time seems to slow down. A highlight of Zatorze is the Dragoons Barracks complex, a worthwhile piece of 19th-century history.

As you walk along the barracks toward Lake Długie, you’ll reach a renovated area with popular restaurants where you can stop for lunch • 6

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Warmia

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Urban Refugees Olsztyn is the focal point of the Warmia region’s enchanting natural environment.

The region’s topography is ideally suited for dwarves with tiny hills, small lakes and enormous forests. There’s plenty of nature to go around as well as preserved German architecture with iconic red brick and wood ‘Prussian walls’ – a local variety of half-timbered walling. The

region’s tourist infrastructure is mostly based on cozy pensions and small traditional farms.

Looking for biodiversity? There’s plenty to go around. The area has always been famed for its mosaic of crops: a field of cereal grains here, rapeseed there, a few vegetable plots and some orchards thrown in for good measure. Warmia is a great place for a holiday in the country, interactions with untrammeled nature are guaranteed and more and more exhausted city-dwellers are deciding to relocate here permanently.

Olsztyn and Warmia

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3 1. Lawendowe Pole (Lavender Field) – the first lavender plantation in Poland. Rural tourist accommodation and workshops are also available 2. Joanna Barchetto-Sojka, originator of Warming, a culinary tours agency 3. Kwaśne Jabłko (Sour Apple), an eco-conscious lodging cottage in the Pasłęka River Valley, producers of cider

Warming is an initiative aimed at fostering connections among the residents of Warmia, supporting local farmers and offering tourists and visitors a chance to explore organic farms and artists in the area. The group hosts various events, such as small Sunday markets featuring local products, held at different farms each time, as well as intimate concerts in orchards. One unique event is the Tomato Cup, a competition for the tastiest and largest tomato. Joanna Barchetto-Sojka, the leader of Warming, offers exclusive tasting tours, where visitors can sample

cheese, vegetables and cider from lesserknown local farms.

Marcin Wiechowski, who moved to Włodowo several years ago, came to a conclusion that Warmia’s sour-apple trees are ideal for cider production. He founded Kwaśne Jabłko (Sour Apple), an award-winning cider farm. His cider is now served at top restaurants, and the farm offers a blend of agrotourism, traditional architecture, modern design and a restaurant called Niwa, nestled in the orchard •

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The Węgajty Theatre, established 30 years ago, holds a legendary place in Warmia’s cultural landscape. Drawing inspiration from Poland’s the theatre pioneer Jerzy Grotowski, the theatre revives old Warmian rituals and hosts the Theatre Village festival each summer, a must-see for performing-arts enthusiasts • Paweł Dobrowolski, director of the Stefan Jaracz Theatre in Olsztyn, recommends the Łynostrada, a scenic cycling and walking trail that runs through Warmia from Nidzica to Lidzbark Warmiński. In Olsztyn, it passes through Podzamcze Park and the Municipal Forest, the largest urban forest in Europe. For much of the year, you can also kayak or paddleboard along the Łyna River, experiencing Olsztyn from the water •

Olsztyn and Warmia

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Forests take up 1,900 hectares which amounts to

21%

Lake Ukiel’s surface area of

412

hectares

of the city’s area

makes it one of Poland’s 100 largest lakes

Olsztyn Rivers in Olsztyn have a total length of 24 km, of which

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km

the course of the Łyna River within the city limits

The city is home to

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species of protected plants including the western marsh orchid (Dactylorhiza majalis)

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species of nesting birds including the corn crake

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Wrocław City of encounters.

There’s always something happening here! The city captivates visitors with its boundless, youthful energy, but its official history dates back over a thousand years, to the Roman Empire, when a settlement at this site was a major transit centre on the Amber Road.

The number of landmarks, from Gothic churches to gems of modernism, headed by the UNESCO listed Centennial Hall, can seem overwhelming.

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Wrocław

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Yet it’s worth coming to Wrocław not just for the tourist sites, because the city’s calendar is bursting with festivals and other cultural events year-round, devoted to classical music (Wratislavia Cantans), experimental music (Avant Art Festival) or jazz (Jazztopad, Jazz nad Odrą), auteur cinema (mBank New Horizons International Film Festival, American Film Festival),

1. WRO sculpture-bench (WRO for Wrocław) in Maria and Lech Kaczyński Boulevard, created within the remit of Wrocław’s Civic Budget 2. Late Gothic Town Hall in the Main Market Square

theatre of disappearing cultures (Brave Festival), independent art (Wrocław Off Gallery Weekend), and even the annual attempt to beat the Guinness record for group guitar-playing (thousands and thousands of people play Hey Joe together at the Thanks Jimi Festival). It’s not surprising that such an open city, where Czech, German, Jewish and Polish influences have

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Wrocław

mingled for centuries, was named the 2016 European Capital of Culture. What’s also special about Wrocław is that it carries within it the core of another city altogether: the former Polish city of Lwów. After the Second World War, when it became Lviv, Ukraine, its intellectual elite, such as mathematicians, writers, broadcasters and lawyers, were resettled in Wrocław. Some say they brought the genius loci of Lwów with them to the capital of Lower Silesia, which accounts for Wrocław’s multicultural spirit down to the present day •

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3 1. The tallest Gothic tower in Poland and one of the tallest in Europe adorns St. Elizabeth’s Church, located on the corner of the Market Square. If you walk further, along Kiełbaśnicza nad Odrzańska Street, you’ll find a hidden site: Stare Jatki Street, now turned into an art corner.

2. Centennial Hall, designed by Max Berg, is one of the crowning achievements of 20th-century architecture. It was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage list as a pioneering work of engineering and architecture. Next to it is one of four locations of the National Gallery of Wrocław – its contemporary art branch, Four Domes Pavilion

3. 66P, located in the former garrison bakery building, is one of many contemporary art galleries in Wrocław. Other must-see art venues include OP ENHEIM, Krupa Art Foundation and BWA Wrocław

Wrocław

No Distance

Łukasz Rusznica Photographer, curator of photo exhibitions, director of Miejsce przy Miejscu ­gallery

An excellent but atypical place to visit in Wrocław is the Tajne Komplety bookstore. It is the real deal: a place that sells good books and is run by fun, open-minded people who know their stuff. A great place to linger over cakes and coffee. The underrated Nadodrze neighbourhood is, in my view, the most interesting part of Wrocław. Until recently there wasn’t much here to attract visitors, but now there are new cafes and bars springing up on every corner, mingling in with local everyday life. You will still

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Neon Side Gallery (above) at 46A Ruska Street. In this artistic backyard you’ll find art galleries, bars and clubs find shoemakers and bakeries among small boutiques there.

Of the many interesting spots to unwind and have a good time I recommend Karavan Bar. You can’t go wrong with neapolitan pizza at Iggy Pizza. Unlike many tourist-trap restaurants, they offer quality food and relaxed atmosphere. If you’re looking for a contemporary cuisine experience book a table at BABA or Młoda Polska •

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The brutalist-style housing and retail complex near Grunwaldzki Square (commonly known as either the ‘toilet seat buildings’ – sedesowce – or Wrocław’s

Manhattan) was designed by Jadwiga Grabowska-Hawrylak between 1967 and 1970. The housing estate has been added to the Lower Silesia Province

Heritage List. For those interested in architecture (both historic and modern) the Museum of Architecture is a must!

Photo: Chris Niedenthal, 1982 •

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Wrocław

The Spirit of the City

Bourgeois Rebels Piotr Czerkawski Film critic Wrocław is like a kid from a nice family who has just entered their rebellious stage. It wants to be subversive but in fact it remains its stable, bourgeois self. This has its limitations, as on weeknights all the decent clubs close by 2 am. But they make up for it at weekends. The city still lacks a little something to achieve the status of a contemporary metropolis, but residents and visitors have a huge array of artistic events to choose from. Thanks to the New Horizons Festival (above) in July and American Film Festival in November it has become the best city in Poland to see cutting-edge films. The events lasts a couple of days, but there’s also an art house multiplex operating year-round that is unequalled anywhere in Eastern Europe •

All it takes for a young Wrocławbased person to appreciate the city’s German flavour is a quick visit to Berlin. The surroundings are strikingly familiar: the facades of the old buildings, the architecture of the pre-war train stations, the distribution of parks, and even the same shape of the paving stones. The Sępolno housing estate is bang in the middle of the Big Island which takes up the eastern portion of Wrocław’s centre. (The city itself is spread out over 20 different islands.) The layout of Sępolno is modelled on the German eagle, but because Poland’s symbol is also an eagle, it’s just as easy to think of it as a Polish accent in a post-German city. Sępolno was built as a low-cost garden city for workers but is now an expensive district for the elite. Right next door is the beautiful Zacisze, like Berlin’s Zehlendorf – a district of monumental villas inhabited by the bourgeoisie.

The model estate WuWa is unaccountably ignored by most tourists and appreciated only by architecture students, who make pilgrimages here from all over

Michał Zygmunt Writer, musician

the world. It may be the most excellent remnant of German architectural heritage in Wrocław, along with the department stores in the city centre: Renoma (below), Feniks and Kameleon. Another model modernist estate, Popowice, is still amazing in photographs, even though it no longer exists, having been rebuilt with shoddy blocks during the Communist era. The German heritage has managed to endure in various surprising forms. For example, shortly after the war, Polish gays began meeting at the same locations where their German counterparts had met before the siege of Festung (or Fortress) Breslau. It’s as if the spirit of the city remained the same regardless of the origin of its inhabitants.•

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Wrocław

Lower Silesia

Castles and Wine The region, rich in landmarks, isn’t just picturesque – its 760 castles and palaces could give the Loire Valley a run for its money. A fourth of Poland’s castles and palaces are found in Lower Silesia. Sites like Książ (2), Czocha, Chojnik, Bolków, Kamieniec Ząbkowicki and Grodziec attract visitors not only for their old architecture and the knightly customs they maintain. Europe’s largest Goth music festival, Castle Party, has been held at Bolków Castle for over 20 years now. In search of sights off the beaten track?

Visit Sarny Castle, which is one of the venues of the Mountains of Literature Festival, or the Gorzanów Palace, unique in its raw beauty. Lower Silesia is also noted for its revival of local wine-making traditions. Vineyards near Świdnica, Ślęża and Bielawa are frequent stops on the wine tourism itinerary.

1 Named the most beautiful village in Lower Silesia, Sokołowsko (1) has been a place of vibrant cultural life for many years. Here the Hommage à Kieślowski Film Festival and the Sanatorium of Sound Experimental Music Festival take place. Historically, the town became famous for its innovative methods of treat-

ing tuberculosis developed

by Dr Hermann Brehmer. A tuberculosis-treatment centre modelled on Sokołowska was created in Davos. Today, the village, located half an hour from Wałbrzych, is gaining traction thanks to The Empusium: A Health Resort Horror Story, a recent novel by Olga Tokar­ czuk, the Nobel Prize winner •

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3. A jewel of Silesian Baroque architecture – Prince’s Hal in the Cistercian Abbey in Lubiąż 2

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Karpacz

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Magic Mountain The town of Karpacz, at the foot of Mount Śnieżka, the highest peak in the Sudety Mountains, is a charming spa town with pensions left over from the nineteenth century, butit is also a major centre for winter sports, with well-developed contemporary facilities. The location offers a wide array of attractions, from mountain hiking to a summer luge track. The most original feature in Karpacz is the mediaeval wooden ‘Viking temple’. The Vang stave church (2) was built in Norway in the twelfth century, but in 1842 it was taken apart (made easier because no nails were used in the construction) and shipped via Szczecin to Berlin (where it was originally supposed to stand on the city’s Peacock Island), and then on to the Karkonosze Mountains.

Since 1844, it has served the local Lutheran parish, and is the oldest wooden house of worship in Poland. The Toy Museum features a collection of toys and dolls from all over the world – over 2,000 items – based on the private collection

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of Henryk Tomaszewski, founder of the Wrocław Pantomime Theatre. A final mustsee is the peak of Mount Śnieżka, topped by a meteorological observatory shaped like three flying saucers (1), with exhibitions of weather instruments and photos.

A panorama of the Karkonosze Mountains stretches out beyond the observation deck.

Weather permitting, you can see the region’s magnificent landscape as far as 200 kilometres away •

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Wrocław

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Rędzin Bridge on the Wrocław Motorway Ring Road bu 2011 arJan Biliszczuk wy122 m

Grunwald Bridge bu 1910 arRichard Plüddemann, Alfred von Scholtz wy20 m

612 m

112.5m

Zoo Bridge bu 1897 arRichard Plüddemann, Karl Klimm wy62 m

Tumski Bridge bu 1889 arAlfred von Scholtz wy6.90 m

52.19m

Sand Bridge bu 1861 (this location has had a wood bridge since the 12th century) ar Ernst Uber wy12.02m 31.74m

The city of a hundred bridges Wrocław has the most bridges in Poland. Prior to the Second World War, there were 303 bridges and footbridges within

the today’s city limits; up-todate calculations (based on somewhat different criteria) count 117 (including 27 foot-

bridges). The largest, busiest bridges cross the main and secondary branches of the Oder River •

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Poznań The Centre of Common Sense.

Residents of Poznań, this cradle of the Polish state, are seen as embodiments of business sense and models of bourgeois stabi­ lity. But those bourgeois, commercial traditions are bumping up against the city’s counterculture and initiatives by urban activists, generating a continual creative ferment. The home of the country’s oldest trade fair hosts international companies, also offers cultural festivals and space for diversity.

Here and away  Poznań Airport – 7 km  Warsaw – 280 km Berlin – 240 km Prague – 310 km Vienna – 470 km Overview Poznań Town Hall, a recently renovated pearl of Renaissance architecture “Another Year in the Urn”, an exhibition of works by members of the music band Nagrobki (Tombstones), a duo of musicians and visual artists, TRAFO Mural by the Golęcin tram terminus, presenting the story of Szczecin Paprikash, a cult local food item.

View of Central Cemetery with the Monument to Brotherhood in Arms Festival of Slavs and Vikings in Wolin Gothic Old Town Hall, Szczecin Mill Island and Jerzy Kędziora’s River”, commemorating Poland’s accession to EU, hanging on a line linking both banks of the Brda River Mausoleum – one of the elements of the Monument to Strug-

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wyimek

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Poznań

At the stroke of noon, to a bugle call’s tones, a pair of mechanical goats emerge from the sixteenth-century City Hall’s tower on the Old Market Square and butt heads. This daily display is Poznań’s signature tourist attraction. That Renaissance tower symbolically counterbalances the tall metal spire that rises over Poznań International Trade Fair, on its site next to the city centre. Among the oldest and largest of Europe’s trade fairs, operating since 1921, it embodies the city’s entrepreneurial spirit.

Today, it hosts among others the IMPACT CEE Congress, a conference envisioning the future of economy. Poznań is the country’s second-wealthiest city after Warsaw, and it is home to a range of domestic and international firms. The marriage of money and culture is nothing new in Poznań.

The Malta Festival, the city’s biggest cultural festival, is now headed by Dominika Kulczyk and the Kulczyk Foundation, which she manages. Malta’s internationally minded legacy has passed into women’s hands, both in terms of its organisation and its programming •

Plac Wolności (Freedom Square) during a Malta Festival Poznań

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Poznań

I Eat and Cry Eliza MórawskaKmita Culinary-book author (whiteplate. com)

Poznań Town Hall, a recently renovated pearl of Renaissance architecture

Poznań is the city I chose to live in. Compact, green, filled with parks, it’s surrounded by forests and provides access to lakes. The people of Wielkopolska are proud, thrifty, hardworking and punctual. Rooted in tradition while moving with the times. If you love old tenement buildings with history, you’ll be enchanted by Poznań, just like I am.

Start by buying a publictransport ticket – Poznań is best explored by tram and on foot.

I recommend Śródka – take a walk through its small streets and grab a coffee at Ghiacci Cafe, in a beautifully restored old tenement building across from the music academy.

From Jordan Bridge, enjoy the view of Brama Poznania. On the way, stop by Gotuyam, a modest-looking spot serving Asian cuisine with mouth-water­ ing aromas that will draw you in with ease. Afterward, hop a tram on Line 8, which readily serves as a sightseeing route. Get off at Plac Wielkopolski (2) and stroll through the unassuming market where vendors offer local products: vegetables, honey, dairy, cold cuts. You can also buy flowers here. I often grab warm potato rolls from a Georgian vendor (the booth next to the flower shop), take a bench and gaze at beautiful old tenement buildings nestling around the square. Here, you’ll find the city’s cheapest pizza while soaking up the local atmosphere.

Back aboard the tram then and head for Jeżyce. Here you’ll find the best traditional Wielkopolska cuisine at Restauracja Modra (3) run by Szymon Sławiński and Dorota Nadolska (I cry when I eat there – it’s that good) and sweet treats at Smażone Mleko. Drop in at the cosy bookstore Skład Kulturalny, buy flowers at Kwiaty i Miut (1) and have pizza at Roberto (it’s really excellent!). You can end your walking venture at the Jeżycki Market •

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Queer Capital of Poland Mike Urbaniak Journalist, author, editor-in-chief of Dynks magazine ‘Poland is one thing, Poznań is another’, says one protagonist in my book A Different City: Queer Stories from Poznań. It’s difficult to argue with this view, even though Poznań and the broader Wielkopolska region are the cradle of the Polish state. Located in the heart of Wielkopolska, Gniezno was the first capital of Poland.

This isn’t about separatism of any kind; it’s about the strong conviction that over the last decade, Poznań has undergone a major change that distinguishes it from the rest of the country. This great social and moral metamorphosis has transformed a former stronghold of bourgeois conservatism into a city that is extremely open to diversity – leading to plenty of voices stating that Poznań is ‘our little Berlin’.

Berlin’s proximity just over the border is certainly significant, but this evolution in Poznań is clearly Polish: rooted in local grassroots work and in taking matters into one’s own hands. This applies as well to the local LGBT+ community, the country’s most vibrant, the most dynamically developing and best organised. Poznań Pride, held every June by the Stonewall Group, the city’s flagship LGBT+ organisation, with plenty of support from City Hall, is now the country’s largest queer festival. And the club Lokum Stonewall – located in the Zamek Culture Centre, once the Imperial Castle – is among the pivotal points on Poznań’s social and cultural map •

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Poznań

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Sołacz, the Garden City Piotr Korduba – Art historian, author, Adam Mickiewicz University lecturer, design expert and collector The best place to start your walk is the district of elegant old villas extending beyond the Opera – Grand Theatre, then continue along Wielkopolska Avenue. It is an avenue, indeed: a pedestrian promenade in the middle, lined by two rows of chestnut trees. Walking under these chestnuts, we will reach Sołacz. Unique on a nationwide scale, the district was founded at the beginning of the twentieth century. It was designed by Joseph Stübben, the outstanding German urban planner, who also designed Poznań’s Imperial District (also known as the Castle or University District).

In Sołacz, Stübben implemented the idea of a garden city, concentrated around a picturesque park with ponds,

1. The Equality March, Poland’s largest after the march held in Warsaw, takes place every June as part of Poznań Pride, the city’s month-long LGBT+ festival 2. Arek Kluk, host of the Lokum Stonewall club

bridges and a stream. The district’s park, however, isn’t the only place for walks. Every bit as picturesque are narrow streets and park squares where stylish villas are situated with shutters, bay windows and winter gardens, all enveloped today in century-old greenery.

In the middle of the park, between the ponds, is a restaurant pavilion with its extensive terrace. Alongside some villas are smaller pubs, providing spots to eat and relax. Most Sołacz villas have extraordinary histories reflecting that of the twentieth-century Poznań as if in a looking glass. Some are still inhabited by descendants of their pre-war owners •

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Poznań

Biking for Design Ewa Voelkel-Krokowicz Owner and CEO of Concordia Design, Poland’s first private creativity and business centre

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Poznań is the city I was born in and about which I’ve had diverse feelings at various stages of my life – from fascination with Wolności Square in the 1990s, when I skateboarded there, to disappointment after 2000, when I started travelling abroad. Today I appreciate the city for its liveable scale, accessibility, green areas and parks where I jog regularly, and for its clean air and extensive cycling infrastructure.

My favourite architecture studio is Jerzy Woźniak and Paweł Garus’s mode:lina. See the interiors they designed for Bajgle etc. and Gusta Jewellery. Near the iconic Baltic building designed by MVRDV, visit our Concordia Design headquarters (3) located in

Poznań

a revitalised historic printing house.

Poznań houses the offices of Netguru, one of the country’s most dynamically developing IT companies, which designs and creates digital products for the largest domestic, US, UK, German and Middle Eastern brands. Four Poznań residents founded one of the world’s renowned startups: StethoMe, a company producing e-stethoscopes. Poznań is also a hub for jewellers – the three largest jewellery companies associated with our city, W. Kruk, Apart and Yes, control about 40 per cent of a market worth several billion zlotys. This is also where Ania Orska comes from. My other favourite designers from Poznań

are Alicja Patanowska, who makes real works of art from ceramics and glass, and Magdalena Kucharska and her brand, Hadaki (1).

You can also visit the city by following the Art in the City route, the idea of the Voelkel Family Foundation which, along with the city, has established many sculptures in public space. The most famous include Magdalena Abakanowicz’s sculptural group The Unrecognised in Citadel Park (2) and The Golem by Czech artist David Černý.

My favourite restaurants and cafes? Inna Piekarnia, Strag, Sanszajn, Nadzieja, Mitte, the Winogratka pizzeria and my Concordia Taste, to which I invite you to try a wide selection

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of Polish wines and local pyra with gzik unlike any you’ve ever eaten before.

On a warm summer evening, take a bike ride along the Wartostrada path toward the Szeląg social garden (4).

It exemplifies socially responsible architecture: a small wood pavilion designed by Wierciński Studio, and next to it a garden, a cafe, relaxation spaces, a ceramic studio; all well embedded in a beautiful riverside area •

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Poznań

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Poznań International Fair The Poznań International Fair was founded in 1921 and is one of the longest-running fair organisers in Europe. It now occupies 110,000 m2 of exhibition hall space and 35,000 m2 of outdoor exhibition space.

Pavilion 1 Industrial hall bu 1947–1948 ar S tanisław Kirkin and Lucjan Ballenstaedt wy 3 2 m width of central nave 10 m width of side naves A sidetrack from Poznań’s main railway station for delivery of large exhibition items Pavilion 2 Heavy industry hall bu 1928 ar R oger Sławski Rebuilt by Stanisław Kirkin and Lucjan Ballenstaedt, 1947 Pavilion 3A Entertainment hall (left) bu 1929 ar R oger Sławski wy 3 5 m tower Remains of the English pavilion built for the Universal National Exhibition in 1929 Pavilion 4 Hall bu 1954–1955 ar B olesław Szmidt

Pavilion 5

Pavilion 14

wy L argest covered structure,

bu 1978 ar Z ygmunt Lutomski

Pavilion 6A bu 2010 ar A DS studio (Piotr Barełkowski)

bu 1994 ar W ojciech Tkaczyk

216 m long with 14,500 m2 of space

Pavilions 7, 7A, 8, 8A ‘four-pack’ bu 1958–1977 Pavilion 9 Italian hall bu 1971–1972 ar Zygmunt Skupniewicz Pavilion 10 Ministry of transport pavilion bu 1949 ar B olesław Szmidt Pavilion 11 Spire (see Photo on left page) bu 1955 ar B olesław Szmidt Pavilion 12 Fair palace (metal industry pavilion) bu 1925, 1947

Pavilion 15

Pavilion 100 Fair centre bu 1971–1972 ar H enryk Jarosz Pavilion 101 Administration building bu 1925 ar S tefan Cybichowski Pavilion 102/103 Wood ­industry trade centre pavilion bu 1951 ar J an Wellenger No longer existing USA Pavilion bu 1957 ar B uckminster Fuller

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Szczecin Floating garden.

Water, greenery and open space are the three dominant features of Szczecin’s cityscape. Even though it doesn’t lie directly on the Baltic coast (contrary to what many Poles think), the city is surrounded by water.

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Every August, Chrobry Embankment offers a chance to admire sailing ships, participants in the Tall Ship Races

Szczecin

Situated on Poland’s north-eastern border, Szczecin was a German town until 1945, a legacy you can glean in its star-shaped plazas, broad boulevards and townhouses dating from the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Surrounded by water and green spaces, Szczecin is a city where you can really breathe. More than 40 per cent of its surface area comprises green spaces, while over 20 per cent is water, including Dąbie Lake, which boasts possibly the most peculiar local attraction – the ferrocement hull of a wrecked ship.

It is worth getting in a kayak to explore

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meanders of the Oder river and to discover the untamed nature of Międzyodrze. Those who prefer their water tamed can choose the Fabryka Wody aquapark, which has Poland’s largest sauna complex, or the Maritime Science Centre, which looks like a container ship.

While visiting Szczecin it’s worth discovering the garden-like Pogodno neighbourhood with its pre-war villas.

You can taste the local specialty pasztecik szczeciński, a deep-fried pastry with meat or sauerkraut stuffing or wander the city looking out for some of its numerous

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A City of Townhouses Monika Szymanik Writer, owner of the Townhouse in the Forest bookshop

­mosaics (7). Szczecin has Poland’s largest (and Europe’s third largest) cemetery – the stunning Central Cemetery, with its park layout. Chrobry Embankment, an observation terrace, is a must-see, as is Mieczysław Karłowicz Philharmonic (1), Poland’s only building to have won the Mies vand der Rohe Award – the Oscar of architecture.

Szczecin looks best in the spring, when magnolias and crocuses are in bloom, or in autumn, when the broad alleys of the Jasne Błonia park (2) are strewn with the golden leaves of over 200 maple plane trees, jointly designated a ‘natural monument’ •

Nineteenth-century townhouses, which continue to comprise cohesive urban tissue in central Szczecin, have a special place in my heart. If you love this kind of architecture, you must see the most beautiful townhouse in the city, 1 Wojciecha Street (3). This unique exemplar of art nouveau was until recently my home, so I feel particularly strongly about it. Another spot I must mention is the 19 Pocztowa Street house, where our tiny Townhouse in the Forest bookshop (4) is located. I love this place, where history reveals itself as tiles from a prewar butcher’s shop peek out from beneath the plaster. I’m drawn to the disorder of Kolumba Street, ‘the Venice of Szczecin’, which is currently being

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transformed and will perhaps become the new heart of the city. The Heater Mason’s Tales Museum and the Szczecin in Polish People’s Republic Museum (5) are two minuscule institutions run by passionate aficionados. Szczecin is also well endowed when it comes to foodie spots. Hania Beza (8) in Sikorskiego Street may well have Poland’s best meringue, and it is of course located in a townhouse • 5 7

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Arty vibes Paulina Kołaczek Owner of the Girls Watch Porn clothes brand, designer

I ended up in Szczecin quite by accident, and it took me some time to be ready for its magic. It’s a city that has much to offer, and at the same time provides reassurance; it feels like a familiar, cosy place. Late

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at night all roads lead to Hormon (a night club, popularly if less politely known as Szmata (Rag) – it’s a cult venue that has entertained generations of Szczecin’s residents. Nine out of ten couples I know met there.

Looking for love? Don’t bother installing Tinder, just go hang out at the Rag. For cooler nights, I’d recommend Český film, a pub and boutique cinema at the same time. If you’d prefer a proper auditorium, there’s no better choice than the Pionier 1907 cinema: it is Poland’s oldest; the films it screens are

fresher than at many a local multiplex, and the audience significantly less unruly. If it’s sold out, try the Zamek cinema in the Ducal Castle (2) – one of Szczecin’s most beautiful historic buildings. Modern art aficionados will want to visit the Trafo Contemporary Art Centre or the Museum of Modern Art branch of the National Museum. Szczecin is an excellent place for artists, not just because of its Academy of Art. It just has this tranquil and inspiring atmosphere • 1. An exhibition of Nagrobki (Tombstones), a duo of musicians and visual artists, TRAFO 2. Mural by the Golęcin tram terminus, presenting the story of Szczecin ­Paprikash, a cult local food item

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Szczecin

Slow -city-life Andrzej ‘Webber’ Mikosz Composer, producer, lake-swimming addict

Szczecin, to me, means a certain pace. Not a cardio workout pace, however, but one closer to the breaths you take when meditating – calmer, more tranquil, but also deeper. I love how close to nature you are in this city: to parks, forests and lakes.

Kasprowicz Park and the Central Cemetery (4) are among the most beautiful. If, like me, it’s repose you’re after, I suggest you explore the forests hugging the city (Puszcza Wkrzańska and Bukowa). City life is springing back beautifully along both banks of the Oder and the central stretch of Wojska Polskiego Avenue, filled with cafes and bars. Another recommendation is to take a walk to the Pomorzany neighbourhood to see quite a few beautiful murals and – tucked away in a courtyard – the street-art-focused Freedom Gallery. My everyday treat is to visit a market known as Manhattan, a nickname that is somewhat ironic given its vertical dimensions. This is where you can get fresh herbs, fruit and vegetables, but also buy a pair of socks or drink a coffee. I also like exploring older neighbourhoods, where the pre-war urban tissue has been preserved. I like to wander around them with no map to guide me; every courtyard and every quarter has intriguing stories to reveal •

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Western Pomerania

Kayak, Cycle, Feast 3 Szczecin is the capital of Western Pomerania, a perfect holiday destination both for history nerds and those who prefer nature-focused adventures.

The former have numerous tourist trails to choose from.

One of these is the European Trail of Brick Gothic, which extends to the area (Gothic Old Town Hall, Szczecin, 2). The trail connects the Baltic cities of the historic Hansa association; they showed off their wealth with grand red-brick edifices. It’s also worth making a stop in Wolin for the Slavs

and Vikings Festival (1), the biggest in this part of Europe, to get a taste of the early Middle Ages.

Nature lovers have much to look forward to. Western Pomerania has two national parks and seven landscape parks. Of particular interest is the lower stretch of the Oder; here the river splits into several smaller, meandering branches, creating a labyrinth of waterways and islands. This is Międzyodrze, an area that was substantially transformed by people since the nineteenth century. For

several years, both the Polish and the German sides have undergone some rewilding, and the area – full of valuable plant and bird species – is now under special conservation measures as the Lower Oder Valley crossborder park (a national park in Germany and a landscape park in Poland). It’s a place beloved by kayakers, attracted to wild landscapes and the availability of tourist infrastructure. You need to be attentive to your surroundings, however – the complex network of waterways means it’s easy to lose your way.

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The vast (and flat) green areas and the magnificent nature make cycling holidays particularly attractive. A popular option, and one of the most interesting cycling trails in the region, is Velo Baltica, part of the international EuroVelo 10 route. It takes cyclists along the coast, ensuring spectacular views over the landscape.

Western Pomerania is also a good destination for your tastebuds! Most Polish people will be familiar with local specialities such as the pasztecik (fried pastry stuffed with meat or vegetables such as sauerkraut) or the paprykarz or paprikash (mildly seasoned tinned-fish spread made with tomatoes, rice, ground fish and

veg oil). It is worth trying other local delicacies too: smoked vendace from the Drawskie Lake District (3), cucumbers from Kalisz Pomorski brined in barrels sunk in a lake, beer soups from Bełczna, or mushrooms pickled with green pine cones are true gourmet fare! •

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Bydgoszcz and Toruń Bydgoszcz Bydgoszcz and Toruń, cities just 50 km apart, were divided Here and away  Bydgoszcz Airport – 4 km  Warsaw – 225 km by a conflict reaching back to Toruń – 46 km Berlin – 315 km the Middle Ages. Toruń was founded by Hermann von Salza, Overview 🛡 1346 Grand Master of the Teutonic  326 k  176 km2 Knights, the order that would go  7,478 PLN  26 k on to rule the city for the next Toruń 221 years. Meanwhile, BydgoHere and away szcz, which was vested with  Bydgoszcz Airport – 44 km town rights by King Casimir III  Warsaw – 185 km Bydgoszcz – 46 km

Berlin – 360 km the Great, played a major role Overview in the Polish crown’s full-on 🛡 1233 war against the Teutonic Order.  195 k  116 km2 Today, Bydgoszcz and Toruń are  7,308 PLN  26 k contemporary cities attracting students and crowds of tourists.

Bydgoszcz and Toruń

137 Bydgoszcz is a phenomenally musical city. Opera Nova, located on the banks of the Brda River, is one of the most contemporary and comprehensive musical theatres in Poland.

The city’s atmospheric music district features the Ignacy Jan Paderewski Pomeranian Philharmonic. Its concert hall is known for excellent acoustics.

Distinguished musicians from around the world have played there, including Rafał Blechacz, graduate of the Bydgoszcz Music Academy and winner of the 15th International Frederick Chopin Piano Competition in 2005 •

A view of Toruń’s Medieval Town – the oldest part of the historic city area (which also includes the New Town and the Teutonic Knights’ castle).

From its very beginning, Toruń was a commercial city, a major hub for international trade.

During the Middle Ages, It was one of Central Europe’s

largest centres of arts. Today, the city’s numerous preserved historic buildings and artefacts are a testament to its former status •

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Bydgoszcz

Bydgoszcz, lying on the Brda River and the Bydgoszcz Canal, is naturally linked to water.

A string of nineteenth-century buildings along the Młynówka branch across from Wyspa Młyńska (Mill Island) represents the heart of the city. The granaries built in the late eighteenth century by the merchant Samuel Gottlieb Engelmann offer a signature view depicted in the city’s logo. One of the attractions here are water-tram tours which let tourists admire the city from the river.

Rother’s Mills is a unique architectural object on the city map. Its history dates to the early nineteenth-century. Located in the very centre on Mill Island, this building complex was once an industrial facility

and after its recent revitalisation, it functions as a Science and Culture Centre with a diverse programme of events.

Pictured Jerzy Kędziora’s 2004

sculpture Man Crossing the River, commemorating Poland’s accession to EU, hangs on a line linking both banks of the Brda River •

Bydgoszcz and Toruń

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The City of Festivals Anna Kornelia Jędrzejewska Director of the Leon Wyczółkowski District Museum in Bydgoszcz

Have you ever heard of the Museum of Soap and the History of Dirt? You can find it in Bydgoszcz! You will not only make your own soap or soy candle, but also learn about history of hygiene (quite a stinky one). If you are a classical-music fan, you will not be disappointed while in Bydgoszcz. Spring always starts with the Bydgoszcz Opera Festival which takes place in Opera Nova, one of the most modern and beautiful opera houses in Poland. There is one of the oldest music festivals in Poland – Bydgoszcz Music Festival, held since 1963 in the Pomeranian Philharmonic. Every three years the city’s musical profile also gets a boost from the International Paderewski Piano Competition. And if you want to learn

about the history of Bydgoszcz and the region, I cordially invite you to our District Museum, which includes an Exploseum, the former German explosives

factory DAG, which is now an open-air museum of industrial architecture and military technology with an underground tourist route •

One of the best-known festivals in Bydgoszcz is International Animated Film Festival Animocje – an annual event focused on animation which since 2011 has provided an opportunity to get to know the latest animated-film productions from all over the world.

Also the Bydgoszcz Science Festival is a popular event organised since 2010 that presents the latest developments in science and technology in a straightforward and accessible way •

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Touch Gothic The Gothic walls of Toruń’s landmarks, including the UNESCO World Heritage Site Old Town complex (1), invite visitors to take a trip back in time.

It’s not hard to find traces of the distant past, particularly the history connected with famed astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus (2), whose discoveries turned the universe inside-out.

The path from the late Gothic house where Copernicus was born (3) to the today’s Planetarium links medieval thought with contemporary popular science •

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Bydgoszcz and Toruń

Exploring the City Anna Lamers Local activist, Toruń tourist guide One iconic place to see in Toruń are the nineteenthcentury fortifications built to strengthen the eastern border of Prussia. They are among the best-preserved rings of defensive walls and ramparts in Europe, which consist of 18 forts and as many as 200 different facilities in total. Worth visiting is Toruń Fortress Museum focusing on the history of military architecture. I would also like to mention Bydgoskie Przedmieście – a wonderfully preserved nineteenth-century district, where you will find various architectural styles of the period – historicism, art nouveau and modernism. These styles are also on display in local timber-frame houses •

A work presented at the Bella Skyway Festival, one of the most popular events in Toruń.

For a whole week participants can watch over a dozen inter-

national installations in the Old Town area and take part in the events with a common theme of light. The light shows are presented on buildings and on the

streets and popular-science institutions such as Młyn Wiedzy Science Centre. •

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Bydgoszcz and Toruń

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The City Full of Creativitiy Aldona Mackiewicz Owner of the Toruń Antique Bookstore

Toruń’s Centre of Contemporary Art Znaki Czasu (above) is a place with immersive art exhibitions, a cosy cafe, an art-house cinema and a wellstocked bookstore. There is also a panoramic terrace with a stunning view of the Old Town! One of my family’s favourite places is also the Living Museum of Gingerbread (1, 2, 3). There is no better souvenir from Toruń than some handmade gingerbread you prepare by yourself. It’s a great treat for children and adults alike •

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Toruń Gingerbread Toruń gingerbreads has been famous since the bakers’ guild began baking it late in the fourteenth century. Toruń, as a member of the Hanseatic League, had relatively easy access to spices which are a necessary ingredient for making gingerbread dough. Top-quality local honey and imported flour were also on hand. For a long time Toruń competed with

Nuremberg, for gingerbread bragging rights. Eventually, the two cities’ guilds came to an agreement in 1556 and exchanged recipes. To this day, however, Toruń's gingerbread is known for using much more black pepper than its German counterpart.

There are two kinds of Toruń gingerbread:

• the cake-like sweet, spicy and soft variety which is a perfect treat at any time • the hard ornamental kind, (below) made using carefully carved wooden (or wax) moulds.

The latter come in a variety of shapes and are usually kept as souvenirs or exchanged as gifts.

Of course, the heart-shaped ones are given as tokens of love •

Fish – a popular shape as there used to be a large community of fishermen in Toruń Toruń skyline with silhouettes of major buildings

Heart with herb designs. Herbs and spices were widely used by townfolk

Carriage – how the nobility travelled

Horse – a lion's share of the moulds depict horses Nicolaus Copernicus - born in Toruń

Horseman – only the rich could afford a horse, most people travelled on foot

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Lublin European Capital of Culture Lublin 2029. Lublin RE:UNION. Situated at the crossroads of the East and the West, Lublin has showcased multiculturalism and kinship between European cultures. The first Polish city to have become the European Youth Capital (2023) – not surprising, considering that one in four people living here is a university student. Young p ­ eople flock to music, theatre and ­contemporary-circus festivals, to the city’s art-house cinemas and its diversity of clubs.

The background for all this entertainment is the well-preserved, heart-shaped Old Town, with many cultural institutions,the Crown Tribunal which starts the 300-metre Underground Tourist Route,and with stunning tenement buildings Renaissance, Baroque and neo-Classical •

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Urban Highline Festival

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Holy Trinity Chapel and Acoustic Sacristy

Lublin The fourteenth-century Holy Trinity Chapel, located on Castle Hill overlooking the Old Town, is a unique example of combining Gothic architecture with Ruthenian-Byzantine polychromes. It is one of the most valuable monuments of medieval art in Poland and Europe.

The Cathedral is the largest church, serving the Lublin

Archdiocese with a few places to visit under one roof: the treasury, the crypts and most of all the acoustic sacristy, where a whisper uttered in one corner can be easily heard opposite, on the other side of the building. The Trinitarian Tower – the highest vantage point in Lublin – stands by the cathedral •

Spiderwoman

My mural is inspired by Aleksandra Mirosław from Lublin – Paris 2024 Olympic gold medallist, the best female speed climber in the world. The main rationale behind the piece is to combine the traditional mural painting technique with augmented-reality technology.

It depicts Aleksandra’s climbing route in real-life size. After reading the QR code placed on the wall, one can watch on a mobile device a 3D animation of the athlete’s climb, perfectly matched with the surface of the mural •

Michał Ćwiek Painter, graphic designer

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Green Networks A system of river valleys and dry ravines winds throughout most Lublin districts, which is unique on a European scale. The Green Network’s main axis is the Bystrzyca River Valley. There are different approaches to revitalisation of the green area: there is the People’s Park, the city’s largest green investment, which responds to the public’s needs for leisure and active outdoor recreation. On the other hand, there is the re-naturalised Wild Riverside Park •

Metropolitan Bus Station (right), designed

by Tremend, winner of the World ­Architecture ­Festival Award in the Transport category

Cebularz The cuisine of Lublin is a fusion of multicultural influences. After all, it is here that the East and the West, Catholics, Jews and Eastern Orthodox Christians met for centuries. These traces can be found in many places, especially in restaurants. Alongside traditional Polish and Lithuanian dishes, such as cepelins and nasutowskie rolls, there are also stuffed goose necks, Jewish caviar, challah and the world-renown bagel of Jewish origin. The most specific to Lu-

blin is cebularz, a wheat-dough pancake topped with diced onion and poppy seed, which even has its own Regional Museum (above) •

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Lublin

Capital of Culture

Lublin is well known for its vibrant cultural scene, with various institutions and organisations with projects that could come to fruition only in this very city. It’s a place of countercultural alternative theatre, fearless galleries, festivals promoting the literatures of eastern neighbours and an international hub for contemporary dance.

The Centre for the Meeting of Cultures (2) is the largest cultural institution in this region of Europe with its complex history, a venue for large-scale artistic performances which is home to the eponymous institution and to the Lublin Philharmonic Orchestra, Lublin Opera and the Hans Christian Andersen Theatre. The space is equipped with an exquisite opera hall, exhibition spaces, a cinema, in-house venues dedicated to music, literature, design and fashion, and relaxation close to nature on the multi-level gardens located on the rooftops.

The Centre for Culture in Lublin is an open, inclusive institution, presenting a whole spectrum of artistic events and organising theatre, music and film festivals, the key among

which are: Theatre Confrontations, International Dance Theatres Meetings, Lublin Jazz Festival, Demakijaż – Women’s Film Festival, Multicultural Lublin. The Labirynt Gallery (1) presents contemporary art constantly responding to the dynamically changing social reality. It also has a collection of contemporary art spanning decades (from the early 1960s onwards) and runs a wide educational programme focusing on international students, migrants, senior citizens and people with various needs •

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Post-industrial heritage and night life Lublin Tobacco Works, which for decades was a symbol of industrial heritage, is now turning over a new leaf due to the revitalisation process happening at present. Noted for its architecture, the spacious and monumental complex is becoming a centre where business, art and entertainment intermingle.

It is planned as the heart of the Lublin’s Creative Industries District. Tobacco Art runs various cultural and educational events, an architectural studio, an outdoor cinema, a creative space for children and Meeting of Styles, an urban art festival •

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Lublin

Memory as a work-inprogress The Grodzka Gate – NN Theatre Centre works towards preservation of cultural heritage and education. The Grodzka Gate (1) is exactly where the Jewish quarter had once been located.

Over the years, the Gate has been transformed into a place like in the Ark of Memory – old photographs, documents and testimonies are preserved for posterity. All these materials can be seen at the in-house exhibition dedicated to multicultural, pre-war Lublin. Another Gate location is the House of Words, about Lublin publishing.

The State Museum at Majdanek is the oldest museum institution in Europe commemorating victims of the Second World War. It was established in the autumn of 1944 in the former Nazi German concentration camp. There are 70 historical buildings from 1941–1944, the Monument to Struggle and Martyrdom and the Mausoleum (2). The Museum’s mission is to cultivate memory and develop historical education about the German occupation of the Lublin region during the war •

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Kazimierz

Town of Artists and Ravines

Just 44 km from Lublin, Kazimierz Dolny is one of Poland’s most beautiful and unusual towns. With its many historic landmarks, it is regarded as the Lublin region’s Renaissance gem. It is the centre point of the Kazimierz Landscape Park and the Land of Loess Gorges, with thousands of these geological formations in the area. Because of its picturesque character, Kazimierz became a favourite town for artists, particularly painters. The views from the hills over the town and the Vistula’s Małopolska Gorge will take your breath away. There’s no end to the sunbathing, hiking, biking and boating opportunities. During the winter there are several ski stations nearby.

The location is also ideal for cross-country skiing, sledding and sleigh rides. Summertime brings a number of festivals, such

as the Festival of Folk Groups and Singers, Kazimiernikejszyn, offering concerts and active recreation, and the Two Riversides film festival •

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Białystok and Podlasie

The New East’s Białystok – a city alongside the country’s eastern border and capital of the cultural diversities of its region, steeped in tradition. Yet Białystok also looks confidently to the future, cultivating innovative local scientific potential while preserving a charm combining metropolitan ambitions with the feel of a town set amidst greenery. The recent opera house, built of glass, concrete and growing plants, indicates this charm impressively.

In Białystok, it feels like you’re en route straight from the nineteenth century into the twenty-first. The city’s rich multiethnic history revitalises its mission of becoming the contemporary hub for north-eastern Poland. Witness this transformation firsthand by strolling through the city centre, pausing at Lipowa Street, Białystok’s main thoroughfare. You’ll find

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the bold modernist St. Roch’s Church, art-nouveau villas, the nineteenth-century Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas and Białystok’s new ‘icon’: the Podlaska Opera and Philharmonic – European Art Centre.

Also here at the heart of the city stands the eighteenth-century Branicki Palace, encircled enchantingly by baroque French-style gardens. Once the aristocratic Branicki

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Białystok

1. The baroque Branicki ­Palace, late 17th century 2. Podlaska Opera and Orchestra, designed

by Marek Budzyński

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family’s residence, the palace now hosts the Medical University of Białystok, as well as the Arsenal: the region’s leading contemporary-art gallery, operating in the former armoury.

From baroque palaces to small wood houses with painted shutters, Białystok confidently progresses into the future.

Białystok University of Technology’s

impressive Centre for Modern Education has produced student projects including a NASA award-winning Mars rover. Another source as the city transforms to the New East is Białystok Science and Technology Park’s start-up incubator •

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Białystok

Mosaic of Diversity Białystok hosts a variety of international festivals. Short films from around the globe are showcased at the Żubroffka Festival, and biennially, there’s Białystok Interphoto and ­Lalkanielalka, which celebrates the ­artistry of worldwide puppeteers (Białystok Puppet Theatre, 1).

The theatre scene is vibrant continually, with inspiring events from the summertime LasFest run by the Coincidentia Group to Teatr Wolność and the independent company Nie Teatr.

Ambient music concerts, held in Branicki Palace’s baroque-era Aula Magna during the Electrum Up To Date Festival (2), seamlessly merge historic architecture with contemporary electronic soundscapes. New Hope, a platform encouraging young people to create and perform in unconventional spaces, also brings electronic-music enthusiasts together.

The Place, a space of intimate connection with

Ilona Karpiuk Cultural animator, artist, journalist, co-creator of the Halfway Festival

Białystok’s Jewish history, exudes human energy and people’s stories. New histories are being forged as new residents arrive: Białystok is now home to thousands of Belarusians. The Tutaka Festival of the Awakened is one marker of their cultural contributions, held in July near the Polish-Belarusian border •

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Home-grown Tourism Monika Szewczyk Director of Białystok Arsenal Art Gallery Among Białystok’s finest features are its beautifully maintained parks, such as the one beside our gallery at Branicki Palace. I also recommend visiting Arsenal Gallery’s second branch, within the Old Power Plant’s atmospheric, post-industrial space. Its distinctive layout allows us to host largescale exhibitions. Another site worth visiting is Cyklarium Słoboda (above), situated in Białystok University of Technology’s green expanses. This captivating space brings together people, animals and plants

International Language

in harmonious coexistence, a multifunctional environment embracing the natural setting through its architectural design.

Podlaskie is distinctive for its rich variety of festivals, with their deep roots in local communities. In our region’s north, the Looking East Literary Festival is well worth attending, held in Buda Ruska near Lake Hańcza, Poland’s deepest.

Hosted on an Old Believers’ farm that’s been there for a century, Looking East attracts fans of Eastern European culture.

Latarnia Theatre, an independ-

ent company, stages highquality artistic performances here, as well. Though Latarnia recently lost their venue in a fire, I’m confident they’ll hit the boards running soon. A visit to the Mochnarte Foundation in Podhajnów, showcasing works by Belarusian artists in residence, comes highly recommended, along with the multicultural centres of the Borderland Foundation’s Miłosz Manor in Krasnogruda and the Supraśl Academy •

The inventor of Esperanto, the world’s most successful constructed language, was PolishJewish doctor Ludwig Lazarus Zamenhof. Zamenhof was born in Białystok in 1859, a city in which four main languages were spoken: Polish, Russian, German and Yiddish. As a

child he observed that this was a root cause of suspicion and misunderstanding between citizens and resolved to create an international language to ease tensions.

The first book of Esperanto grammar was published in Warsaw in 1887 •

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Podlasie

Coral Reef Adam Wajrak Journalist, environmental activist, residing in the Podlaskie village of Teremiski

The Białowieża Forest became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979

Białystok

Podlaskie’s pride and joy is Białowieża Forest, a woodland unique in comparison to any other in the EU. Even in North America’s temperate regions you’ll not find a lowland forest so wellpreserved. (Were I to make a far-ranging comparison, it would be to the Great Barrier Reef.) The forest’s best-preserved part is the Białowieża National Park, where you can encounter wolves, lynxes, deer and, of course, bison. The global population of European bison is only half that of polar bears, already regarded as an endangered species. Witnessing bison in the wild feels like stepping back a millennium.

The Biebrza Marshes and the surrounding Biebrza National Park are vast open spaces, home to elk along with cranes from springtime on and a host of other bird species. The embankment near Strękowa Góra provides the best vantage point, or take a Biebrza River tour in traditional long boats known as Polish canoes. I also recommend the beaver-watching tours in Narew National Park, where the Narew River splits into multiple channels, resembling a local-scale version of the Amazon •

Herbal Corner Herbs, spread across 20 hectares, are the passion of Mirosław Angielczyk, who owns Ziołowy Zakątek (above) and the Dary Natury brand.

Ziołowy Zakątek, or Herbal Corner, charmingly combines medicinal plants with traditional Podlaskie architecture, and with the Podlaskie Botanical Garden set within Herbal Corner, it’s an ideal base for agritourism. Visitors stay in restored village houses, a mosscovered wetlands cabin, even a specially designed tree-trunk cabin! While there, unwind in the herbal spa and dine at the tavern, where traditional dishes get surprising herbal twists •

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Wormwood and Bison-Grass Soap The producer 4 Szpaki makes natural, vegan cosmetics.

Among its distinctive products, you’ll find soap infused with bison grass and wormwood, as well as clover serum and soap enriched with hops and wort from a local brewery. These craft cosmetics’ focus on minimising environmental impact is evident both in their formulations and the zero-waste packaging. The firm, aligned with this philosophy, has refill stations, enabling customers to top up their own containers.

Products by 4 Szpaki, available in popular shops and online, are also garnering international recognition from Macau and Japan to Hong Kong and Taiwan •

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Białystok

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A Cultural Blend Podlaskie’s rich culture makes itself evident at every turn. Over generations, the region’s Jewish population’s achievements include the exquisite synagogues that still stand in Orla and Tykocin (3), both with unique charms due to their traditional architecture and well-preserved layouts. Most every local town has a beautiful Orthodox church; the most mystical site of Orthodoxy remains the holy mount of crosses known as Grabarka, alongside the village of that name (Pilgrimage to Grabarka Holy Mount, 1). A trip to Kruszyniany (2) is well worth it to see its wood mosque and the Tatar cemetery, and to indulge in Tatar cuisine in a local yurt •

2

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159 Along with its scientific potential, Białystok also proudly displays its important cultural heritage. The city and the surrounding Podlaskie region are the nation’s most culturally diverse areas. Catholic and Orthodox churches stand alongside synagogues that are most often empty, in evidence of this historic overlay. While the large Jewish population was eradicated during the Second World War, significant minorities remain, including Belarusian, Tatar and Lithuanian communities. In recent years, the city has seen a considerable increase in its Ukrainian and Belarusian residents due to conflict conditions they have been forced away from in those neighbouring countries •

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Rzeszów Rzeszów has undergone a strik- Here and away  Rzeszów Airport – 8 km ing transformation in recent  Warsaw – 255 km Bratislava – 415 km Vienna – 455 km years, evolving from the relaBudapest – 355 km Kiev – 610 km tively modest capital of the Overview Subcarpathian region in the 🛡 1354 country’s mountainous south 197 k  117 km2 east to one of its fastest-growing  7,428 PLN  35 k cities. Quality-of-life surveys consistently rank it at the top, even surpassing Warsaw.

Rzeszów may not be a metropolis, but its commitment to innovation is impressive.

Known as a university town, it’s home to several institutions attracting students from across the nation and abroad. This academic atmosphere fuels creativity and entrepreneurship, and The Monument to the Revolutionary Action by Marian it enriches the city’s dynamic Konieczny, erected in 1974.

It is devoted to the struggles for freedom fought in the culture.

Rzeszów region in the 1930s

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Rzeszów is central to the cluster of aerospace companies located in the south-east, known as Aviation Valley. The high regional concentration of aviation-industry businesses, research centres and educational institutions, work to make it one of Europe’s leading aerospace hubs.

The city also holds an important place on the nation’s sports scene, particularly in volleyball, where its teams have achieved significant success in national leagues. Rzeszów frequently hosts sports events, promoting athleticism and community engagement, helping make it a popular destination for sports enthusiasts •

162 1. Show of multimedia fountains on the square at Lubomirskich Avenue, next to the castle 2. Neo-Renaissance Town Hall from the end of the 19th century 3. The summer garden of the Délice restaurant, next to the 18th-century Lubomirski ­Palace

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1

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Rescuer City In recognition of Rzeszów’s immense contributions to supporting Ukraine during its time of need, the city was honoured by President Zelensky in 2024 with the prestigious Rescuer City title.

This award has heightened the city’s prominence, attracting new investments and strengthening its spirit of resilience and community.

Located just 100 kilometres

from the border, the city has welcomed over 100,000 refugees, swelling its population by more than 50 per cent.

City administration, residents and volunteers working together have provided essential services from shelter and food to medical care to those fleeing the war •

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Rzeszów

Common Home Grażyna Bochenek Author, journalist, podcaster

1

Ever since Russia attacked Ukraine, Rzeszów has become an important city – not only economically, but also in terms of its political and military significance. Both its location – Rzeszów is the most easternly urban centre with an efficient airport to its credit – and the great empathy that the city’s residents extended to Ukrainian refugees have proved key factors. Importantly, Rzeszów has been a common home to Poles and Ukrainians for years, so in a way history has come full circle.

The city’s bustling Jewish community settled there in the sixteenth-century; its existence was shattered by the Holocaust. Rzeszów attempts to restore our memory of them. For instance, visitors to Rzeszowskie Piwnice will get to know the wartime episode of hiding several Jews under the market square. Next to the Town Hall, where the Nazi Ger-

man authorities resided, there was an underground bunker – most probably the second largest (after Warsaw) urban hiding place in Poland.

Another townhouse in the market square features a commemorative plaque celebrating Fred Zinnemann, the eminent film maker and director of High Noon, among others, who lived there. A mural alluding to that classic Western adorns the building adjacent to the metropolitan police headquarters (4).

The Rzeszów constables are thus aided by the on-screen uncompromising sheriff William Kane, while the mural reminds residents and visitors alike of the famous 1989 Gary Cooper poster that prodded Poles into participating in their first partially free, parliamentary elections •

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Bieszczady and Roztocze

1 Rzeszów serves as a gateway to two of the nation’s most scenic areas: the Bieszczady Mountains and the Roztocze Upland.

Both places offer rich cultural experiences and outdoor adventures. A pristine wilderness area renowned for its breath-taking landscapes, the Bieszczady Mountains are a hiker’s paradise (1). With looming summits, dense forests and crystal-clear lakes, the Bieszczady offer countless opportunities for trekking, camping and wildlife observation. Visitors can also explore historic villages, learn about the region’s rich cultural heritage and savour traditional cuisine. Known for rolling wooded hills, picturesque villages and abundant wildlife, the Roztocze Upland provides a more relaxed,

intimate experience. The region is home to nature reserves including the Roztocze National Park, which provides hiking trails, cycling routes and paths and opportunities for birdwatching.

Visitors can also explore charming towns: Zamość (2), for example, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its Renaissance architecture and vibrant market square.

Carpathian Wine Routes The Carpathian Wine Route, located in the Podkarpackie voivodeship’s south, near the Carpathian Mountains, is Poland’s burgeoning wine region.

This area combines traditional winemaking with contempo-

rary techniques to produce high-quality wines highlighting the unique regional terroir.

Winemaking in Podkarpackie has deep roots: evidence of vineyards dates to the twelfth century. Visiting the Carpathian Wine Route means touring picturesque vineyards, learning about winemaking processes and sampling the wide array of wines.

Also located in the Carpathian foothills, the Jasło Wine Route offers a delightful journey through the country’s emerging wine region. Travellers can explore vineyards ranging from small family-run wineries to larger estates, and they can sample a broad range of local varietals: Johanniter, Siegerrebe, Solaris, Cabernet Dorsa, Cabernet Cortis, Regent Seyval Blanc, Bianca,

Rzeszów

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2

Jutrzenka, Muskat Odeski, Regent, Rondo, Leon Millot. And the area is dotted with charming towns – Jasło’s historic architecture is on full display – and scenic landscapes including the Jasielskie Błonia (Jasiel Meadows) and the Beskid Niski Mountain range, while delicious local cuisine features ingredients from forest mushrooms to regional cheeses.

a global leader in high-quality glassware. Today, visitors to the Glass Heritage Centre Krosno (3) can embark on a fascinating journey through this time-honoured tradition. They can witness the magic unfold first-hand, with glassblowing demonstrations held at select workshops. Krosno’s glassmaking tradition extends beyond

Krosno: Glass City

3

Krosno, situated south of Rzeszów, renowned for its long history of glassmaking, has earned its nickname of Glass City. This captivating city, synonymous with its exquisite glassware for well over a century, has gained a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship and enduring designs. Glass production here dates back even further, with evidence indicating production activities as early as the fourteenth century. A boom came early in the nineteenth century, when the Jacenty Fachan Glassworks was established in 1825, leading to Krosno’s status as

its factories and museums. It’s a city embodying the spirit of glass in its architecture, cultural events and vibrant community.

The annual Glass City Festival is a testament to this enduring legacy, celebrating the artistry and economic importance of glassmaking •

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Business, Science and Innovations Enterprising Poland.

The twentieth century was not kind to Poland. In 1989, after breaking free from the shackles of Communism, Poland was an economically enfeebled country with outdated industry, crumbling infrastructure and a lack of its own capital.

However, it had a well-educated population hungry for success, eager to make up for the lost time, and more than willing to join the ranks of developed nations as quickly as possible. Thanks to bold reforms, hard work, ambition and favourable international circumstances, Poles managed to lift their country out of poverty and to build a modern, diversified and crisis-resistant free-market economy, which is now a leader in growth in Europe and an inspiration to many others.

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After more than 30 years of almost uninterrupted growth, the previous source of competitiveness for Polish products and services is now slowly running dry. Poland is therefore transitioning from a development model based on low production costs to one focused on locally generated added value. This can be seen in the level of expenditure on research and development, which has tripled in relation to GDP over the past 20 years. R&D centres are springing up like mushrooms after rain, and

Polish companies, after a period of consolidation and growth in the local market, are increasingly boldly penetrating foreign markets and gaining significant positions in their industries.

In terms of purchasing power parity, Poland is currently the fifth largest market in the EU and the twentieth largest in the world. According to current International Monetary Fund forecasts, by 2026, Poland will have reached the same GDP per capita as Spain •

Production of towers for wind turbines in Gdańsk Shipyard.

Poland is currently among the top five producers of towers in the world

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Industry and Technology

The fall of Communism left Poland with an underfunded and outdated state-owned industrial sector, which had no chance of competing on international markets. However, the past few decades have been a time of resurgence for Polish industry. While this revival has occasionally been based on privatised and restructured former stateowned enterprises, it has more often been

Solaris is a company producing buses, trolleybuses and trams.

One of the largest manufacturers of public transport vehicles in Europe and the European leader in

driven by private ventures that started from scratch, often as small subcontractors in production chains owned and operated by others. After several decades of organic growth, capital accumulation and development of new competencies, these once-small ventures have transformed into large, dynamic industrial plants offering advanced product technologies. Today, they compete with the best in their sectors and hold strong positions on international markets •

production of electric and hybrid buses. The company employs around 2,700 people and tens of thousands of vehicles produced

by Solaris are now operating in

850 cities in 33 countries across Europe and beyond. Currently, the majority shares in the company are owned by the Spanish corporation CAF •

Business, Science and Innovations

Iceye (above) is a PolishFinnish satellite technology company co-founded and led

by Rafał Modrzewski. The company specialises in Earth imaging using satellites equipped with Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR). This technology enables capturing images of land and sea, regardless of lighting conditions or cloud cover. Iceye developed the world’s only SAR system that fits on a satellite with a launch mass under 100 kilograms. Since 2018, Iceye has placed 27 such satellites into orbit, boasting the world’s largest fleet of this kind and is a global leader in its field. Iceye’s satellites are used for both civilian purposes, such as monitoring natural conditions (recently during floods in Poland) and military reconnaissance •

Creotech Instruments is a leading Polish manufacturer of satellite systems and components, as well as advanced electronics dedicated to quantum computers, quantum cryptography and high-energy physics laboratories. The company also operates in the field of unmanned aerial systems, providing devices and software for drone- traffic monitoring. Creotech has completed around 30 projects for the space sector, and its subsystems have been part of 14 space missions. The company supplies solutions to some of the world’s most technologically advanced research institutions, such as ESA, CERN, GSI and the DESY research centre in Germany •

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Vigo Photonics is a global leader in the production of uncooled infrared photonic detectors, known for their high sensitivity and fast response. Vigo’s products are used in sectors such as rail (detecting emergency states of high-speed trains), energy (verifying powerinfrastructure conditions), military (surveillance and targeting systems on UAVs; smart and self-guiding munitions), medicine (early detection of cancer markers or circulatory system disorders) and industry (energyconsumption optimisation).

Vigo is also an official supplier of components for NASA, with its detectors operating on the Curiosity rover exploring Mars.

The company is currently building a new production facility near Warsaw, worth nearly $250 mln, to increase its production volume from 6,000 to up to 100,000 detectors per year •

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Business, Science and Innovations

AIUT specialises in industrial automation and robotics. It is now one of Europe’s leaders in automation-systems integration, serving industries such as energy, automotive and water management. AIUT excels in the use of advanced technologies like artificial intelligence (AI), machine learning (ML) and the Internet of Things (IoT) to develop solutions that optimise industrial processes and enable ‘smart manufacturing.’ By 2022, the company completed over 3,500 projects across 70 countries. It currently has branches in the US, Canada, Germany, India, China and Romania •

Saule Technologies is a company founded by Dr Olga Malinkiewicz who developed a technology for producing flexible photovoltaic cells based on perovskites, minerals with unique optical properties that can convert sunlight into electricity. Her main achievement was developing a method to print perovskite solar cells on

flexible films and textiles at room temperature, significantly reducing production costs. This technology has the potential to revolutionise the solar energy market, as perovskite cells are lightweight, ultra-thin, semitransparent, highly efficient (even in artificial light), and can be produced more cheaply than traditional silicon solar panels •

PESA (Pojazdy Szynowe PESA Bydgoszcz) is a company that produces and modernises rail vehicles and has become one of the leaders in the European market. Established in 1851, Pesa initially focused on railway rolling-stock repairs until the early twenty-first century. After successful privatisation and restructuring under the leadership of CEO Tomasz Zaboklicki, the company transformed from a repair workshop into a modern manufacturer of integrated trains, locomotives and trams, which led to its dynamic growth and international expansion.

Outside of Poland, Pesa’s vehicles are currently operating in countries such as Germany, Italy, the Czech Republic, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Lithuania, Russia, Ukraine, Kazakhstan, Belarus and Ghana •

Business, Science and Innovations XTPL was founded by Dr Filip Granek (right) and develops and commercialises breakthrough technology for ultra-precise printing of nanomaterials. XTPL’s nanoprinting technology allows for the precise application of conductive materials at the nano level, creating ultra-thin conductive lines as narrow as 1 µm, which is unattainable by other methods. XTPL’s method is not only more precise but also cheaper than traditional methods. These solutions are used in industries such as displays, semiconductors, PCBs and biosensors. XTPL is rapidly expanding its presence in key markets in Asia, Europe and the US, working with global electronics manufacturers and research centres •

Selvita is one of the largest biotech companies in Europe specialising in oncology drug discovery and development, operating as a Contract Research Organization (CRO).

The company provides R&D services to pharmaceutical, biotech and chemical companies worldwide. Selvita employs over 1,000 people, around 30

171

per cent of whom hold PhD degrees. It has R&D centres in Kraków, Poznań and Zagreb, as well as sales offices in major biotech hubs, including Boston and San Francisco in the US and Cambridge in the UK •

Grupa WB is a military-technology manufacturer founded in 1996 by Piotr Wojciechowski and Adam Bartosiewicz. The company focuses on advanced communications and command systems, as well as unmanned platforms. Grupa WB stands out for its innovative material, mechanical, electronic and IT technologies, incorporating artificial intelligence, augmented reality and special encryption technologies. These systems have been tested in full-scale armed conflicts (including Ukraine). Today, ­Grupa WB employs over 1,200 people, more than half of whom are R&D engineers, making it the largest drone producer in Europe and one of the global leaders setting new technological standards in its industry. Grupa WB’s solutions are exported to numerous countries, including the US, South Korea, Ukraine, India and Turkey •

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Gaming

The video-game production industry is not only a realm of high technology but also a tool of cultural influence whose power is comparable to that of cinema. Over the past years, Poland has emerged as one of the leading global markets for video-game production, with products created by domestic developers delighting players worldwide.

Since 2014, 26 Polish games have achieved sales exceeding one million copies, with the biggest blockbuster, The Witcher 3, selling over 50 million copies (and receiving over 250 Game of the Year awards). In 2023, as far as the Steam platform used by gamers all over the world is concerned, titles developed in Poland ranked second on users’ wish lists (after games from the US), constituting as much as 15 per cent of the top 200 of the most anticipated games.

With a market capitalisation exceeding $4 billion, CD Projekt Red is the largest Polish game developer. The studio gained worldwide fame for The Witcher series, based on the books by Andrzej Sapkowski and Cyberpunk 2077.

Polish games are not just entertainment. The internationally acclaimed This War of Mine by 11 bit studios is a unique video game realistically depicting the morally and physically devastating fate of civilians who struggle to survive in a city engulfed by an armed conflict. The game received a Special Recognition Award from Amnesty International during the Central & Eastern European Game Awards. In 2022, it became the first game ever to be incorporated by Poland’s Ministry of Education into the basic curriculum in schools. Another game that has recently been included in the school curriculum is Cyphers Game

by Chronospace, a first-person perspective production about the influence of cryptology on the victory in the Polish-Bolshevik War (1919–1921) •

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Business, Science and Innovations

Polish Video Game Industry (2023)

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of employees are non-Poles

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Connected People

63%

of adults have used online banking services over the past month

54%

of adults have done a purchase online over the past month

Poles are well connected. As of 2024, there are more mobile phones than people in Poland and 95.9 percent of Poles have broadband access to the Internet at home. Poles use the Internet on a daily basis and as much as 52 percent of them say they are permanently online.

68% 41% of adults have purchased and

of them have sold something online at least once in their lifetime

29%

of adults have used online tools over the past month to settle some formalities in a public office

95.5% of households in rural areas are connected to the Internet

52.4 million SIM cards are in operation in Poland in a population of 37.7 million people

Business, Science and Innovations

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Start-ups and Innovations

Poland is undergoing a transition towards a knowledge-based economy. A critical element of this process are companies whose competitiveness is based on their ability to create and commercialise cutting-edge solutions that are transforming their respective industries worldwide. In Poland, there are numerous tech companies that, thanks to talented engineers and managers, have become international benchmarks in their fields. An example of such new competitive advantages of the Polish economy economy, as we’ve seen above, is the ecosystem of video-game producers. Not only does it set the tone for the entire industry, but it is also a great tool for building the country’s cultural influence on the international stage •

InPost is a Polish logistics and parcel-delivery company founded by Rafał Brzoska. Its innovation lies in the introduction of automated parcel lockers available 24/7, eliminating the need to wait for a courier. Customers can pick up and send parcels at their convenience. This model has revolutionised the ondemand delivery industry and contributed to the company’s international success. Besides Poland, InPost now operates in countries like the United Kingdom, Italy, Spain, France and the Benelux nations, with over 30,000 parcel lockers across these regions as of 2023, making the company a leader in its sector •

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Żabka nano is an innovative 24/7 self-service store format introduced by the Żabka grocery chain. These stores use advanced image-recognition systems and artificial intelligence to monitor purchases and making payment intuitive.

The client simply grabs their items and leaves – the payment is collected automatically. In a pilot program, Żabka opened 50 such locations creating the largest network of self-service stores in Europe • Blik is a mobile payment system that enables fast and secure payments in physical and online stores, ATM cash withdrawals and phone-number transfers without the need for a payment card. It is integrated with most banks in Poland and is now expanding its operations to international markets, including Romania and Slovakia, while supporting global payments through partnerships with Visa and Mastercard •

Business, Science and Innovations

Brainly is an online educational platform that allows students to ask questions and receive answers from other users, including experts and teachers. It was founded by Michał Borkowski, Łukasz Haluch and Tomasz Kraus. Brainly’s uniqueness lies in its community-driven approach to education promoting user collaboration and knowledge sharing. The platform has over 350 million users worldwide and is considered one of Poland’s unicorns, valued at over $1 billion • Booksy is a beauty and wellness service booking platform founded by Stefan Batory and Konrad Howard. The service operates in several countries, including Poland, the United States, the United Kingdom, Brazil and Spain, with a user base of 30 million worldwide. It is the top global beauty-services booking app, with more users than all its competitors combined.

Booksy is one of Poland’s unicorns, valued at over $1 ­billion •

Elevenlabs is a start-up founded by Mateusz Staniszewski and Piotr Dąbkowski, which has developed a tool for converting text into natural-sounding speech in 30 languages, which is used in various fields, from audiobooks to video games and virtual assistants. The tool not only transforms written text into spoken words but allows the bot to convey specific emotions, speak in the voice of a Holly­ wood star, in any language, and with a distinctive accent or voice tone. The company is considered a leader in this field and one of Poland’s unicorns, valued at over $1 billion • Docplanner is an online platform founded by Mariusz Gralewski (below) that allows

patients to search for specialists, book appointments with doctors, and leave reviews. The service provides also tools for healthcare institutions that help improve their efficiency.

Operating in 13 countries, Docplanner hosts over 2 million doctors, specialists and medical facilities, serving more than 60 million unique patients and facilitating over 5 million bookings per month. It is one of Poland’s unicorns, valued at over $1 billion •

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Spirit of Entrepreneurship

850

Over new companies are established every day in Poland. Poles are known for their exceptional entrepreneurship, demonstrating over the past decades their ability to adapt and innovate in dynamically changing economic conditions. Their passion for independence and their ability to cope with challenges are among the main reasons Poland has managed to avoid major economic crises for over 30 years.

Share in GDP 67.9% – all enterprises in total 28.2% – micro enterprises2 8.1% – small enterprises3 9.0% – medium enterprises4 22.6% – large enterprises5

Employment status of population aged 15–891 Total population aged 15–89

30.3 m 17.2 m Employed

Employed in private sector

13 m 3.1 m 0.7 m

Self-employed

Employment by age groups1 Pre-productive age (15–17)

0.01 m Productive age (18–59/64)

16.4 m

Post-productive age (60/65–89)

0.75 m

Employers

Structure of enterprises by number of employees 97.2% – micro enterprises2 2.1% – small enterprises3 0.6% – medium enterprises4 0.2% – large enterprises5 Structure of enterprises by sectors 55.1% – services 20.0% – trade 15.5% – construction 9.4% – industry Poland has proven to be crisisproof thanks to the passion for independence of its population and its ability to cope with challenges.

1. as of 2024, 2. micro enterprises: 0–9 employees, 3. small enterprises: 10–49 employees, 4. medium enterprises: 50–249 employees, 5. large enterprises : over 250 employees

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Enterpreneurship

Poles have entrepreneurship in their genes. When Communism fell in the late 1980s, the streets turned into one big marketplace, and anyone who could opened a small business.

Today, 35 years later, many of these once small initiatives have, through organic growth and consolidation, transformed into large enterprises that not only trade but often produce their own products. Many industries are now dominated by Polish manufacturers. Who could have imagined 35 years ago that the country would become the second-largest exporter of furniture and the secondlargest exporter of yachts in the world?

CCC is a footwear company founded by Dariusz Miłek (right). He began his business journey in the early 1990s by selling shoes from a foldable bed at a market in Lubin. Three decades later, the CCC group he founded is a publicly traded company with a market capitalisation of nearly $3 billion. It currently employs over 15,000 people, owns a total of 67 registered brands, operates about 90 e-commerce platforms, and has stores in 23 countries •

Galeon Yachts is a company specialising in the production of luxury motor yachts, founded in 1982 by long-distance sea captain Wieczysław Kobyłko.

The company has achieved international success thanks to its innovative design approach, high-quality materials and precision craftsmanship. Galeon Yachts exports about half of its production to the US, where it is the market leader in the class of motor yachts 40–70 feet long. The company reported revenues of almost $150 million in 2022 • Maspex is a food company founded in 1990 by college friends: Krzysztof Pawiński (currently the company’s CEO), Zdzisław Stuglik, Jerzy Kasperczyk, Sławomir Rusinek and Józef Szczur. Today is the largest food company in Central Europe, with 18 production facilities in Poland and abroad, and annual revenues of around $4 billion.

Its product portfolio includes 70 brands, encompassing 4,000 different products •

Polpharma is a leader in the Polish pharmaceutical market, with roots dating back to 1935.

The company was nationalised after the war, and following privatisation in 2000, it was acquired by Jerzy Starak, who transformed it into one of the leading producers of medicines in Central and Eastern Europe.

Today, one in every eight medicine packages sold in Polish pharmacies is a Polpharma product. In 2023, the company’s revenue exceeded $1 billion • Eko Okna is a company founded in 1998 by Mateusz Kłosek and is now the largest manufacturer of window and door joinery in Europe. The company exports its products to 40 countries worldwide, with 80 per cent of production sold outside of Poland. In 2022, the company’s revenue exceeded $1 billion •

Business, Science and Innovations

179

Wielton is the thirdlargest producer of trailers, semitrailers and vehicle bodies in Europe and stands among the top ten manufacturers in the world •

Inglot is a globally acclaimed brand of cosmetics, founded by Polish chemist Wojciech Inglot. The company exports its products to over 80 countries and has over 800 retail stores worldwide, including franchise stores in cities such as New York, London and Dubai. Inglot also regularly releases limited editions of its products created in collaboration with stars such as Jennifer Lopez, Britney Spears and Anja Rubik •

LPP is a company founded

by Marek Piechocki and Jerzy Lubianiec, specialising in the design, production and distribution of clothing. The company stands out for its portfolio of its own fashion brands, such as Reserved, Cropp, House, Mohito and Sinsay. LPP operates in 40 countries around the world, with a network of 2,300 stores.

The company employs over 40,000 people and is listed on the Warsaw Stock Exchange, with a market capitalisation exceeding $7 billion and annual revenues of over $4.5 billion •

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Science

After Skłodowska-Curie and Copernicus

Polish science has a long tradition. It’s enough to mention that Nicolaus Copernicus, the greatest astronomer of all time, was Polish. Maria Skłodowska-Curie, was to0, and was the recipient of two Nobel Prizes (in physics and in chemistry) and is probably the most famous female scientist in history. Kazimierz Funk, the discoverer of vitamins, was a Pole, as was Jan Czochralski, who developed the method of obtaining silicon monocrystals, the basis of the production process for microprocessors used in all electronic devices – something the world today cannot do without.

Contemporary Polish scientists approach their work as ambitiously as their predecessors and have numerous discoveries to their credit that make our world a ­better place.

Bigger Universe

In 1992, Prof. Aleksander Wolszczan discovered the first two planets outside our solar system, a breakthrough event that contributed to the development of the entire field of astrophysics related to the search for what are termed exoplanets.

In 2019, a team of astronomers from the University of Warsaw, working under the leadership of Prof. Andrzej Udalski on the OGLE project (Optical Gravitational Lensing Experiment), discovered one of the smallest exoplanets known to date, which, in many respects, turned out to be like earth.

The same scientists developed a unique three-dimensional map of the Milky Way. Polish astronomy offers more than just Copernicus and his successors. Wilhelmina Iwanowska (1905–1999) was the

181 Warsaw Telescope and cepheid variables in the Milky Way discovered by the Optical Gravitational Lensing Experiment (OGLE)

first woman in Poland with the title of professor of astrophysics. Iwanowska also became the vice-president of the International Astronomical Union (1973– 1979). Her research led to the revision of the zero point of the Shapley curve, and consequently to the revision of the distance scale in the Universe. Thanks to her, we know that the cosmos is twice as large as previously thought. Rozalia Szafraniec (1910–2001) specialised in visual observations of eclipsing variable stars and in the 1960s gained international recognition by setting a world record for the number of such observations (almost 50,000). Szafraniec also discovered two new variable stars and conducted studies on the positions of comets, asteroids and the moon.

The iconic Lunar Roving Vehicle (LRV), a battery-powered four-wheeled rover used on the Moon during the American Apollo program was conceived by a team led by professor Mieczysław Bekker (1905-1989), a Polish engineer working for General Motors who is considered a pioneer in the field of off-road vehicle theory

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Super Strong Gasars

Scientists from the AGH University of Kraków, led by Prof. Jerzy J. Sobczak, have created a completely new porous and strong material based on metals and ceramics, marking the advent an another class of materials. These materials, called gasars (1), are ultralight and strong. They absorb sound, energy, dampen vibrations, and conduct high temperatures well and, as such, have the potential to revolutionise technologies used in medicine and aerospace.

Photon-based Electronics

Scientists from the University of Warsaw, under the leadership of Prof. Jacek Szczytko (2), discovered that photons can be made to behave like electrons. This discovery involves creating a new state

of light that behaves similarly to particles of matter, which could have significant implications for quantum technologies.

This breakthrough may enable development of novel photonic devices.

The research results open new perspectives for the development of photon-based electronics, which could revolutionise the electronics industry.

‘Tailor-made’ Living Organs and Vaccines

A team of scientists from the Foundation for Research and Science Development, led by Dr Michał Wszoła, was the first in the world to 3D-print a fully vascularised prototype of a bionic pancreas – a functional organ made from living cells, which promises to revolutionise diabetes treatment. Using a specially

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designed bio-ink, the researchers successfully printed blood vessels along with pancreatic tissues. Thanks to this living organ, printed by the 3D bioprinting technology, it will soon be possible to transplant a ‘tailormade’ body part into a person.

Scientists from the Medical University of Warsaw, led by Prof. Jakub Gołąb, have uncovered a new mechanism by which cancer cells deceive the immune system. They observed that cancer cells send vesicles with an enzyme to the lymph nodes, blocking T lymphocytes and weakening immunity.

In collaboration with the company Molecure they developed a compound that could potentially block these harmful agents and serve as an anti-cancer drug.

Dr Marta Łuksza (3) is a leading computational biology expert specialising in

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tumour and virus evolution and their interactions with immune systems. Her work aims to advance cancer immunotherapy and optimise vaccination strategies for infectious diseases. Dr Łuksza has created predictive models crucial for the WHO’s influenza vaccine selection. Currently, she focuses on enhancing cancer-vaccine personalisation •

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Design

Designs by Oskar Zięta are the end-product of years’ worth of studies on the pro­perties of metals, which – thanks to his signature Free Internal Pressure Deformation (FiDU) technology – are used to ­create sensual, sense-provoking object-like sculptures

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Designing with Ethos and Emotions An intersection of design with new techno­ logies, as well as with art and crafts, enables one to pursue the career of a designer: from large-scale industrial design – large in terms of both size and scope – to scaling activities of restricted reach, to limited-run activities, to designer collectibles, an unrepresented category not long ago.

Maja Ganszyniec runs a small design studio, but works for the biggest brands: IKEA, Duka, Paradyż and Profim. She is credited with Normo, the first Polish circular-design office chair that went into production. She also runs Nurt, a small-scale brand that focuses on local materials. She describes her principles as follows: ‘Through my own brand I am questioning the notion of locality and production processes. I need to be very rational with my work, but with this project I can express my ethos and emotions. It is very personal and relates to the things that I miss on the Polish market.’ A similar strategy has been employed

by Marta and Dawid Grynasz, the couple behind Grynasz Studio. They specialise in furniture design, in product design, and in assisting business in creating design strategies. Simultaneously, they are the brains behind Zaczyn, their own brand based on close cooperation with local manufacturers and artisans.

Maria Jeglińska-Adamczewska is active between Poland and France. Not unlike Ganszyniec, she works for world-renowned brands – Vitra, Kvadrat – while also creating highly individualised objects through a very intuitive, artistic process, cooperating with Moroccan artisans, and re-using refuse, giving it a new life and novel meanings.

Other brands, such as Tabanda, Doki and Hop Design, focus on an even smaller scale. These are bijou design teams, often partners in work and in life, who not only create ideas, but are also directly involved in production and sale of their commodities.

They work locally, liaising with their own suppliers and contractors, and their tenets include simplicity, accessibility, naturalness and durability. Their ambition is not to save the world but to lay groundwork: to design aesthetical and useful objects.

Designing collectibles most often stems from one’s fascination or personal relation with material. The end user is hardly the protagonist of this story. The main theme is the designer’s tackling of the physical matter of a given object. Notable examples include Monika Patuszyńska, Alicja Patanowska and Arkadiusz Szwed, who delve into the capricious nature of ceramics, questioning the design process and the properties of the material at hand, along with Anna Bera, who grapples with the structure of wood and Marcin Rusak, who contemplates the tension between permanence and disintegration. All the above are highly competent designers and remarkable artisans. It is their attitude to clients that defines them as artists and it is for that reason alone that their designs, despite their often questionable utility, become sought-after collectibles.

Active on the crossroads between craft and technology, there are also notable budding entrepreneurs, such as Studio Speculo, with their signature misty mirrors, Rest Studio and Zuzanna Wójcik, who is given to experiments with fabric •

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7 1. Maria JeglińskaAdamczewska, furniture, 3 series, designed for PLATO 2. Arkadiusz Szwed, vase, 1 BUMPS 2.0 series 3. Maja Ganszyniec for IKEA, furniture, SPÄNST limited col1 lection 4. Studio Speculo, Float mirror 5. REST studio, blanket, BLUR collection 6. DOKI, K3 rack, inspired by the Gdańsk Shipyard crane 7. Grynasz Studio, Bofii armchair, designed for Bizzarto

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Fashion

Polish fashion undergoes a major revival of traditional crafting techniques, previously left out at the margins. Young brands in particular are rediscovering their heritage, creating fresh variations on folklore and handmade crafts.

The brand B Sides draws from handknitting techniques, offering custom sweaters crafted by regional artisans from Podlasie. Zofia Chylak showcases Żywiec lace in her limited-edition Chylak Heritage accessory collection inspired by bourgeois attire. Magda Butrym introduces clothing and accessories made from Koniaków lace, while Serfenta from Cieszyn follows in the footsteps of basketry masters from across the country.

The digital world plays its significant role, with viral trends so often emerging

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online having their influence in fashion, too. While in the past entire collections stood as cohesive works, today a single item can gain remarkable popularity.

Models that become most coveted can then lead to long waiting lists. Brands excelling in generating viral hits range from Orage Studio with its Kyoto bow-tie blouse, She Is Sunday with its pink Ciao T-shirt, Atomy with its large suede Libra bag and Turtle Story, known for colourful hair clips made from eco-friendly cellulose acetate.

Established brands on the d ­ omestic market are also thriving. Ania Kuczyńska has gone from seasonal collections to favoring smaller themed drops. In 2023, Kuczyńska launched her first perfume, Terra. Brands from Le Petit Trou to Undress Code garner success both domestically and internationally and merge lingerie with relaxed, lifestyle-driven fashion. In Warsaw, EST by S, founded by Gosia Sobiczewska, stands out with its intricate, exceptional design, delivering elegance along with functionality.

Polish jewelry design is noteworthy, too, with brands including Maar, with sculptural organic forms inspired by aquatic life and food, Oplotka, blending today’s shapes with emotional themes, the vibrant and eclectic 10 DECOART and goldsmithing master Kasia Wójcik.

And leather goods gain in popularity domestically and abroad. Brands from Balagan with their bags and shoes, the internationally adored Chylak, already noted above and which introduced footwear in 2023, Atomy with its architectural forms and vegan brand Estimon are all standing out.

Localism and responsibility, meanwhile, grow increasingly important •

Business, Science and Innovations

2 1. B Sides, Power Flower sweater, inspired by local flora 2. Atomy, Libra Suede bag 3. Oplotka, Reef Gold necklace

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Chylak Heritage – a collection of accessories inspired by the traditional outfits of the city of Żywiec in southern Poland •

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New Craft

As is the case with fashion, design is seeing a resurgence of interest in traditional craftsmanship. Young designers are eager to learn from seasoned masters, and hone their skills in carpentry workshops, ceramic studios, glassworks and porcelain factories where time-honoured techniques are still practiced. They value close interaction with materials and focus on local

production, being mindful of their environmental impact. Many have joined the association Nów. New Craft Poland. These designers hail from different parts of the country and draw inspiration from their regional traditions, which they reinterpret in innovative ways. In their dealings with large corporations and institutions, they advocate for artisans, while also promoting regional craft achievements internationally •

1. Sterkowski – Caps & Hats, a workshop in operation since 1926, is now led by the fourth generation of the Sterkowski family. Their elegant flat caps are especially popular with ­international customer 2. Anna Bera is a multidisciplinary creative, woodcarver and designer specialising in functional art using wood as her main medium. Member of Nów. New Craft Poland ­Association 2

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New Craft Aleksander Oniszh, furniture designer and maker, co-founder of Nów. New Craft Poland •

By making locally, we help develop mutual networks of suppliers, subcontractors, small shops and clients. We try to use the services of businesses like ours.

We give help to our neighbours, and we often get their help in turn. from Nów manifesto Agnieszka Bar, born and raised in the Sudety Mountains, a region steeped in glassmaking traditions, is captivated by the process of shaping molten glass, as well as by natural phenomena and human nature. She creates objects as well as exhibitions, where glass becomes a medium for telling both personal and universal stories •

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Przemek Cepak, founder of the Splot brand, states: ‘My dream of making modern Polish kilims led me to the weavers working for the last operating cooperative in the town of Bobowa, outside of Kraków. I knew then that together we would create something unique. So I decided to bring together the many years of tradition and experience, but most of all love for craftsmanship, with the designs and sensibility of younger artists and designers.’ The photo shows a kilim designed

by Edgar Bąk •

Gorseciki was the affectionate, diminutive term for pre-war tile mosaics that decorated floors and walls in apartments, cafes and townhouse staircases. When renowned designer Maja Ganszyniec couldn’t find a specific pattern to complete her bathroom, she created the Modernism collection for Ceramika Paradyż. Ganszyniec transformed the crafting skills of pre-war manufacturers into a contemporary production line •

Kłosy is a firm known for handmade knives and kitchen tools, highly regarded by chefs and cooking enthusiasts.

The craft can be learned at workshops organised by Kłosy •

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Culture Poland is a medium-scale country in middle Europe, its inhabitants comprising a moderately sized nation. If you think Polish culture holds only moderate interest, though, don’t put this book down! Grab pencils and notebooks, light up the Internet on your phones and open your laptops – there’s about to be plenty of note-taking and ­googling.

Here’s our culture’s first fascinating paradox! Did you know that while we’re so proud of our culture and history, Napoleon gets praised in our national anthem, while our national epic – Pan Tadeusz by Adam Mickiewicz – opens with ‘Lithuania, my fatherland!’ and the song that climaxes every festive gathering is named ‘Ukraine’ and tells a Cossack story?

If you didn’t, it’s likely because we Poles hold a unique treasure we’re immensely proud of, certainly, but which also makes us kind of hard to understand. That

treasure is the Polish language. And please don’t tell us you aren’t enchanted by words like gżegżółka, trząść and Szczebrzeszyn! If you want to learn how to pronounce them, just visit the Polish Language Festival in, yes, Szczebrzeszyn.

This is why we revere maestros of the translation arts, who render works by Nobel laureate Olga Tokarczuk, Dorota Masłowska – that virtuoso of Polish – and literary-reportage innovators including Mariusz Szczygieł and Witold Szabłowski, key players in the tradition elevated by Ryszard Kapuściński and Hanna Krall.

Culture

However, beyond a doubt it’s The Witcher that’s been the biggest phenomenon unleashed by Polish literature – and pop culture – in recent decades. But The Witcher didn’t materialise from out of nowhere! Let’s consider, for instance, upiór – a phantom wandering between the realm of the quick and the dead, one of the characters in Adam Mickiewicz’s Dziady (Forefathers’ Eve), the national drama from the early nineteenth century largely revolving around the ancient ritual of summoning spirits. Knowing this makes it easier to understand mysterious energies emanating from Roman Polanski’s Rosemary’s Baby and Agnieszka Smoczyńska’s The Lure (Córki dancingu), an oddly charming macabre that emanates in Aleksandra

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Waliszewska’s art, in the music of Furia, as it redefines black metal, and Zamilska’s dark electronic beats.

But don’t be scared of us – we aren’t that eerie! Despite appearances, the impulsive, spontaneous and ever-improvising Poles also love harmony and tranquility. To experience this, just listen to some of our globally celebrated musicians: the piano cascades of Hania Rani, electronic landscapes by Hatti Vatti, the trance-like journeys of Wacław Zimpel, and atmospheric tunes of singer-songwriter Daniel Spaleniak.

These are but a few names, just a few threads to follow. You’re all set with your pencil, notebook, phone, laptop? Plunge with us into Polish culture! •

Polish singer, contra tenor and b-boy Jakub Józef Orliński delighted his audience during the opening of the 2024 Paris Olympics

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Cinema

Martin Scorsese admires classic Polish films so much that he organised a worldwide tour of 21 films by the checklist of legendary directors: Wajda, Has, Kawalerowicz, Zanussi and Kieślowski. But a new generation of talents has come of age and now we boast a batch of contemporary classics. Małgorzata Szumowska won a Silver Bear Prize for Best Director at the 2015 Berlin International Film Festival for Body.

She says she made a film about Poland as a body: tired, unloved and neglected. Since then, she has received Jury Grand Prix at the 2018 Berlinale for Mug, made a film

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2 1. Still from Agnieszka Smoczyńska’s The Silent Twins 2. Agnieszka Holland with the Special Jury Prize won for Green Border at the 80th Venice International Film Festival.

The standing ovation after the screening lasted 15 minutes straight

starring Naomi Watts (Infinite Storm) and confidently navigates the international film community. In 2023, at the Venice Film Festival, the director once again showed Poland (from the twilight of Communism till the present), as seen by a transgender person in Woman Of… For over 20 years, Szumowska has been collaborating with cinematographer Michał Englert. She admits in interviews that for her ‘Polishness’ is not a cross to bear, and that she wants to continue to make films here. Poland is her inspiration.

Likewise, such inspiration is not lost on another director who has lived for decades in the UK, but who has achieved his greatest success with a modest black-and-white film set in the past in the country of his childhood. Obviously, the auteur in question is none other than Paweł Pawlikowski, winner of the Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film, Ida. To him, the flick is a ‘love letter to Poland’, its mindset, music and art. At the 2018 Cannes Film Festival, Pawlikowski won the Best Director Award for Cold War, a film which also earned him three Oscar nominations. Ever since, Hollywood A-listers have been lining up to star in one of Pawlikowski’s productions.

Still, as far as cinema is concerned, men play second fiddle to women. Agnieszka Holland, the most recognised of them all, has worked on location in Europe and the United States. Nominated for Academy Awards for Europa Europa and In Darkness, awarded the Silver Bear for Spoor, her film based on Drive Your Plow Over the Bones of the Dead, a novel by Olga Tokarczuk. She directed several episodes of popular TV series, including The Wire and House of Cards. Holland does not shy away from thorny issues that are often evaded in domestic debates, such antisemitism, wildlife protection and the refugee crisis

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Małgorzata Szumowska and her longtime associate Michał Englert

‘You’re what I love about Poland the most. You’re brave and brilliant’, is how Paweł Pawlikowski complimented his film crew while being handed an Academy Award for Ida by Nicole ­Kidman

on the Polish-Belarusian border (her Green Border won the Special Jury Prize at the 80th Venice International Film Festival).

Another auteur worth following is Agnieszka Smoczyńska whose The Lure, Fugue and The Silent Twins were screened at the Cannes Film Festival. Based on a famous non-fiction book by Marjorie Wallace, The Silent Twins is a Polish-British production that has thrust her into the international limelight. Hardly her last word •

Famous Polish directors of photography Janusz Kamiński

Dariusz Wolski

Sławomir Idziak

Schindler’s List, Saving Private Ryan, Minority Report, Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of Crystal Skull

Pirates of the Caribbean, Alice in Wonderland, Prometheus, The Martian, Napoleon

Gattaca, Black Hawk Down, Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix

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Pop Music

A pianist, composer and producer Hania Rani (right) fuses elements of classical, film, jazz and ambient music, and ­received the Opus Klassik Award in 2022 for Best Video (with Dobrawa Czocher). Her fourth solo album Nostalgia – her first real live album, recorded at Polish Radio Studios in Warsaw, a space that holds significant meaning for Rani – was released in 2024 on Gondwana Records •

Brodka (left), among the critically acclaimed, broadly embraced artists on the scene, recorded her studio album WAWA (2024) to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising’s 80th anniversary. In the accompanying photo session, Brodka takes the role of the Warsaw Mermaid, the iconic armed guardian of the city where such suffering occurred eight decades ago •

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Hip-hop remains one of the country’s top music genres. Netflix produced a recent documentary series focused on its development and rise to fame: All That Rap, or Cały ten rap in Polish.

Women grow increasingly prominent and audible on the scene. Young Leosia’s (left) solo debut, Atmosfera (2024), had gone platinum even before it was officially launched •

Zamilska (right), the music producer and DJ, is touted domestically and internationally for her signature industrial sound.

She composed the Ruiner soundtrack, for the Polish cyberpunk-shooter video game from 2017. Zamilska launched her album United Kingdom of Anxiety in 2024 and toured in support of the legendary Kim Gordon •

Lado ABC is one of the country’s vital independent labels.

At the same time, it’s been an artists’ group since around 2004, a community for them and likeminded associates, and a readily recognised brand through which these dozens of musicians generate a wealth of projects where the common thread is stylistic variety. (left: Lado ABC’s flagship band Mitch & Mitch.) •

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Dawid Podsiadło live in concert at Śląski ­Stadium in Chorzów. One of the few crowd-pullers whose performances fill up the largest stadiums in the country. In June 2024, his seven concerts were attended by almost 500,000 people. His records have so far found over a million buyers.

Podsiadło’s fans especially appreciate his poetic and universal lyrics

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Literature

10 Dec 1996. Nobel Prize in Literature laureate Wisława Szymborska (1923– 2012) acknowledges the applause during the award ceremony in the Grand Auditorium of the

Andrzej Stasiuk (born 1960) Considered a chronicler of Eastern Europe, with a deep interest in our region’s landscapes, cultures and historical changes following the collapse of communism. Together with Monika Sznajderman, he coowns the Czarne Publishing House, specialising in dissemination of fiction from Central and Eastern Europe as well as non-fiction. Stasiuk’s works can be shuffled to suit a range of readers, from tales of sexual escapades to meditative travel essays from the trackless wilds of the ‘worse Europe’. His books have been translated into almost all European languages •

Stockholm Concert Hall in the presence of King Carl Gustaf and Queen Silvia. One of the distinguishing features of Szymborska’s poetry is her use of humour and playfulness •

Science-fiction author Stanisław Lem (1921–2006) has had works translated into dozens of languages. He is best known for his 1961 novel Solaris, a philosophical and psychological exploration of human consciousness and communication with extraterrestrial intelligence.

Solaris has been adapted to film, including the iconic 1972 version by Andrei Tarkovsky and the 2002 Hollywood version by Steven Soderbergh •

Culture

203 Dorota Masłowska (born 1983) Her first novel, Snow White and Russian Red (trans. Benjamin Paloff), was acclaimed as the literary sensation of the decade.

It sold in huge numbers and attracted several foreign publishers. Masłowska captures spot-on the climate of Poland in constant turmoil, aiming high but sinking into a swamp of complexes and illusions. She is a major force in Polish contemporary literature and culture, using her fiction, theatre plays and music to offer sharp and often humorous critiques of life as we know it •

Olga Tokarczuk (born 1962) Winner of the 2018 Nobel Prize for Literature (the first Polish female prose writer) for ‘a narrative imagination that with encyclopedic passion represents the crossing of boundaries as a form of life’. An author who’s pulled off an impossible trick for years: she is praised by critics and adored by a mass readership. For her novel Flights (trans.

Jennifer Croft), Tokarczuk was awarded the 2018 Man Booker International Prize. For The Books of Jacob (trans. Jennifer Croft), the writer was shortlisted for the Booker’s 2022 edition.

Tokarczuk is a well-known advocate for environmental issues and animal rights •

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For Kids

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The Mizielińskis. If you haven’t heard their name yet, you will soon. Aleksandra Mizielińska and Daniel Mizieliński (below), a couple and a graphic-artist duo, are a true phenomenon. They became the authors of children’s books known all over the world, illustrated in a characteristic manner that speaks to audiences everywhere. Their biggest hit is Maps, a fascinating journey through 42 countries on all continents, published in over 3o countries in a total circulation of over 3 million copies. The New York Times considers it one of the six most interesting and best-illustrated books for children.

Polish artists are truly excellent in this field. Shown here are some examples from the following authors: Maria Strzelecka, Maria Dek, Iwona Chmielewska, Piotr Socha, Dawid Ryski and Piotr Karski •

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Classical Music

At the age of twenty, pianist Rafał Blechacz secured a spectacular win at the International Frederick Chopin Piano Competition in 2005, achieving the first place (second prize was not even awarded!) and lots of public attention, in addition to other special accolades and distinctions. He has continued working as-

siduously, recording CDs for the Deutsche Grammophon record company, and appearing in concert halls across the globe.

He was awarded the prestigious Gilmore Artist Award in 2014. Blechacz is – so far – the last Pole to have won the emotionally charged Chopin Piano ­Competition •

Culture

Marcin Masecki learned Chopin’s Nocturnes by ear, without using any score. This experiment allowed him a freedom of expression not often found in the academically correct world of classical music. Masecki’s projects span a wide range of styles and his virtuosic fusion of a variety of genres as well as his conscious blurring the border between high art and en-

tertainment have become the musician’s hallmarks. His newest project Boleros y mas is an exploration of Latin American music, close to him since childhood spent in Colombia. He co-leads Jazz Band MłynarskiMasecki, a large ensemble devoted to Polish jazz of the 1920s and 1930s, presented in his own arrangements •

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Polish School of Posters

Beginning in the 1950s and continuing till the 1980s, the Polish School of Posters combined the aesthetics of painting with the succinctness and simple metaphor of the poster. These works significantly influenced the international development of graphic design. Characterised by strong and vivid colours typical of folk art, they combined printed slogans, often

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hand-lettered, with popular symbols, to create a concise inventive metaphor. Prominent poster designers included Henryk Tomaszewski (1), Jan Lenica, Jan Młodożeniec (2) and Waldemar Świerzy. At present, graphic designers (Andrzej Pągowski, 3, Fontarte, 4, Jakub Jezierski, 5), aware of this tradition, go their own ways •

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Comic Books Tadeusz Baranowski – his cult graphic novels Podróż smokiem Diplodokiem [Riding the Diplodocus Dragon] and Antresolka profesora Nerwosolka [Professor Ritalin’s Mezzanine] provided the material for the animated feature film The Diplodocus Dragon, praised by reviewers as a movie ‘that can proudly hold its own against productions of such powerhouses as Disney or Dreamworks’. The feature was directed by Wojtek Wawszczyk, himself the author of a popular graphic novel: his Pan Żarówka [Mr Lightbulb] was published in English by the independent Fantagraphics. A year before its release, The Diplodocus Dragon already been sold to over a hundred markets, including the UK, Spain, Spain, Scandinavia, the Benelux countries and Korea •

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Five Must-Read Graphic Novels by Polish Authors The Bardo tetralogy

by Wojciech Stefaniec and Daniel Odija One of the most ambitious graphic novels of recent years, Bardo is an epic anti-utopia telling the story of a world where all plant life is extinct, the fate of animals is sealed, and humans – afflicted with infertility – are crowded in massive metropolises, where they subside on novel psychoactive substances.

Made up of the volumes Stolp, Rita, Rege and Bardo, the tetralogy is the meeting of Wojciech Stefaniec’s highly inventive illustration and Daniel Odija’s writing. The series dazzles with its epic scope and extremely detailed drawing. It is available in the Netherlands thanks to the highly esteemed Scratch publishing house.

DUM DUM by Łukasz Wojciechowski This is one of the most successful recent graphic novels by a Polish author. Published in France (and to be published in Poland in 2025), the novel made it to the official selection of the prestigious Angoulême International Comics Festival.

The story of the protagonist, a wounded veteran of the First World War who is trying to cope with his trauma with art and love, garnered rave reviews, attesting to Wojciechowski’s success in the demanding market that is France. Wojciechowski, an architect by education, draws his minimalist comics (including his earlier works Ville nouvelle and Soleil mecanique) in AutoCAD, a popular drafting application used in architecture and design.

Tiny Fox and Great Boar

by Berenika Kołomycka The tiny fox lived a quiet life beneath his apple tree, with no desire to see faraway lands. Until, once upon a time, a boar turned up. The two initially distrusted one another, but soon became good friends. Their life took on new colour as new adventures and new friends made their appearance. The first volume in the series – There – originated as a short story awarded in the Janusz Christo competition for a children’s graphic novel.

There now are as many as nine volumes, meticulously painted with watercolours. Each year Berenika Kołomycka creates a new volume of adventures for young fans of the unlikely duo, and the series is awaited by children in Poland, Norway and the Us. Bajka at the End of the World

by Marcin Podolec Bajka of the title is a little dog who, together with her human, Wiktoria, is searching for the girl’s parents in a world after a mysterious apocalypse: Marcin Podolec’s eight-volume series is post-apocalyptic fiction, except it’s for children. Its events – encounters with weird creatures, escapes, moments of doubt – are geared to the sensitivity of young readers. This story of friendship, loyalty and sacrifice, visually attractive and full of humour and adventures, has been published in France as well as Spain, one of the biggest comics markets in Europe.

Achtung Zelig! World War II

by Krzysztof Gawronkiewicz and Krystian Rosenberg Surrealist and dream-like, this graphic novel is set in the autumn of 1939, right at the breakout of the Second World War. As the protagonist Zelig and his father seek to escape the war, they come across a group of Nazi German soldiers led by a mysterious character endowed with paranormal skills, who was hired by the Nazis to accomplish a special mission. The comic was first published in 2004 and deemed and instant classic; a year later a French-language version followed, coloured by Grażyna Kasprzak, who did many volumes of the cult Thorgal.

Achtung Zelig! was included in the prestigious Englishlanguage roundup 1001 Comics You Must Read Before You Die •

212 Poland is home to worldrenown­ed performing-arts traditions linked to the work of two distinguished experimental-theatre directors: Jerzy ­Grotowski and Tadeusz Kantor (left). Kantor was a creator of avant-garde theatre as well as a visual artist and theoretician. He was a pioneer of happenings and introduced informalism to Poland, as well as specific ready-mades, which he called ‘objects of the lowest rank’. To this day, performing arts and choreography are vital on theatre stages nationwide •

Performing Arts

Nowy Teatr, guided by Krzysztof Warlikowski, the company’s artistic director, is among the leading contemporary voices and the most internationally recognised. Warlikowski returned to Festival d’Avignon in 2024 with Elizabeth Costello, his latest production garnering rave reviews. Costello, the fascinating eponymous protagonist

from the writing of JM Coetzee, appeals to our conscience regarding animals fates, social inequality, exclusion of elders and the disabled, and more.

She’s appeared in five earlier Warlikowski plays and has now taken centre stage •

Culture

Cezary Goes to War by Cezary Tomaszewski – another theatre director whose output is worth following – is a play in which Vatslav Nijinsky’s choreography to Claude Debussy’s Prelude to the Afternoon of a Faun meets a song by composer Stanisław Moniuszko in a men’s changing room. It’s a meeting of aerobic exercises and Dmitri Shostako-

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vich’s wartime Symphony No. 7, with the recollection of a draft board kicking off a camp revue.

The play, applauded from New York City to Munich and Santiago, Chile, is part of the company Komuna Warszawa’s cycle Before the War / War / After the War that deals with that seemingly everlasting theme engulfing the world as we know it • Marta Ziółek dubs herself ‘an artist of pleasure.’ Choreographer and performer, Ziółek is also a yogi and instructor of movement language, body awareness and conscious sexuality. She graduated in choreography from Amsterdam’s School for New Dance Movement (SNDO). In her works, she moves sleekly between street culture and high art. Ziółek initiated Warsaw Mermaids, a project centralising urban buccaneers, free spirits and heartbreakers, whose voices and corporealities cavort into the forbidden. (Left: One Woman Show) •

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Visual Arts

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1. Monika Sosnowska

2. Karol Radziszewski

3. Aneta Grzeszykowska

Interested in places encumbered with error, in spaces knocked out of functionality, in absurd ideas and absurd implementations, Sosnowska explores architecture from the point of view of its failures.

Her works are often peculiar mementos of architectural utopias brought out from the past, inspired by architecture’s psychedelic properties. The main reference points for Sosnowska are experiences of post-war modernisation – all-too-familiar to inhabitants of Eastern European landscapes of housing blocks, train stations and shopping centres. She represented Poland at the 52nd Venice Biennale. (Photo: Sosnowska’s Grating in Bródno Sculpture Park in Warsaw) •

For over a decade now, Radziszewski has been consistently developing the heritage of the LGBT+ community with special emphasis on male and female artists from Central Europe. The Queer Archive Institute (QAI) he has set up is a one-person institution which documents achievements of artists from the countries of the former Eastern Bloc, who, because of geopolitical factors, had no chance to become publicly known and acknowledged. With his works shown in institutions of culture all over the world, Radziszewski rewrites life stories, reinstating people who had been deprived of their rightful place in history.

(Photo: Karol Radziszewski with his work depicting Tamara Łempicka) •

Grzeszykowska combines performance, photography, handsewn objects, but also specific materials (animal skins) and family members. One of the main topics of her works is her own identity, with which she plays on many levels: by erasing her own figure from her family collection of photographs (Album), or by impersonating Cindy Sherman in the classic cycle Untitled Film Stills. Some projects by Grzeszykowska – like the cycle of illusionist portraits of non-existent people (Untitled) – take advantage of the possibilities offered by digital-image manipulation. The motifs which she obsessively returns to in her works are absence, invisibility, disappearing and the confrontation of body and thought with non-existence.

(Photo: Aneta Grzeszykowska in the Raster Gallery) •

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Visual Arts 4

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4. Małgorzata Mirga-Tas

5. Rafał Milach

6. Joanna Rajkowska

Often working in collaboration with other women, Mirga-Tas sews pieces of clothing, handkerchiefs, tablecloths, curtains and sheets together to create vivid portraits and scenes from everyday life. She challenges the pervasive stigmatisation associated with Roma identity and femininity that have been constructed over centuries and imposed by majority prejudices.

In doing so, she constructs an intimate narrative around Roma culture. Mirga-Tas was the official Polish representative at the 59th Venice Biennale in 2022 – the first Roma artist to represent any country •

Visual artist, photographer, educator, member of Magnum Photos. Milach’s work focuses on the tension between society and power structures. Author of protest books and critical publications on state control. Professor at the Krzysztof Kieślowski Film School of Silesian University in Katowice, winner of the Author Book Award at Rencontres Phototographiques d’Arles and World Press Photo contest, co-founder of the Archive of Public Protests and Sputnik Photos collectives •

As she says of her own work: ‘The city, the urban space, is an area that should belong to the people, in which everyone can say – this is my space, I can shape it as I wish, I can make it thrive. A free space for expression that spreads to a fluid narration of identity, the space of games – this is the vision of a city in which I would like to live.’ Her most famous work – Greetings from Jerusalem Avenue – is a 15-metre-tall (50-foot) artificial palm tree installed on Warsaw’s Jerusalem Avenue, a street whose name refers to the historic Jewish community.

Rajkowska’s art has become increasingly politically and socially engaged, addressing issues such as suppressed histories, religious tensions and collective traumas •

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Architecture

Local Doesn’t Mean Banal

XYstudio, Public Kindergarten no. 6 KIDO in Aleksandrów Łódzki, 2021

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Architecture

Poland’s entry into the European Union has transformed national architecture dramatically. Thanks to EU funding, new public buildings in major cities have gone up, often related to culture yet also to education and sports. These new facilities have let many institutions spread their wings, broadening audience access to events, becoming significant urban landmarks, and receiving architectural awards and international recognition. And they have achieved something more: they’ve changed our perception of architecture, demonstrating how it can enhance quality of life and social relations.

This phenomenon holds further importance, for it now affects smaller Polish towns.

The most striking evidence is the work of Warsaw-based xystudio, led by Filip Domaszczyński, Dorota Sibińska and Marta Nowosielska. In 2015, their design for a kindergarten gained widespread attention, for local factory workers’ children in Ostrów Mazowiecka, a town of 21,000. Since then, the team has designed several other

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nurseries, schools and kindergartens, also in small towns. Their work has inspired numerous similar projects. Kids growing up among buildings that are cozy, comfortable, aesthetically engaging and friendly will surely develop greater sensitivity to architecture. This holds true for residents in Błonie (3), a small town near Warsaw, where – thanks to local authorities’ openness – people shop, meet and spend time at the local market Aleksandra Wasilkowska designed. The market’s design respects nature and also serves the community outside of market days.

The Przystanek Edukacja Cultural Services Square in Wieleń, Wielkopolska (2), designed by Neostudio Architekci, creates a space for the 11,000 residents while linking that space with the town’s historic architecture. The contemporary building is shielded by an openwork facade referencing Wieleń’s tradition of small-town buildings. In designing a local culture center for Stary Sącz, 55Architekci joined a new, contemporary wing onto a marketsquare townhouse, showing metaphorically that culture today can be based on dialogue between tradition and contemporaneity.

In industrial, modernist Jastrzębie-Zdrój, SLAS architects added a new dynamic, designing a boldly striking gray monolithic concert hall for the State Music School.

Small-town projects are often tailored to meet local needs, taking the surroundings into account. These can be both impressive and daring, like the contemporary reimagining of Municipal Park in Starachowice by the studio eM4.Pracownia Architektury.Brataniec, led by Marcin Brataniec, and the respectful renovation of Wolsztyn’s old railway station (designed

by PL.Architekci). Sensitivity to local character and heritage is also becoming a Polish export product. Evidence of this is the success of the project for transforming a nineteenth-century slaughterhouse into the Plato City Gallery of Contemporary Art in Ostrava, Czech Republic (1), designed by Robert Konieczny’s team •

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3 4. Paweł Grobelny, jetties on the lake in Słupca, Wielkopolska, recipient of the 2024 DNA Paris Design Award in the Landscape Design category

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Sport Enjoying physical activities nationwide. Poles have embraced a new wave of physical activity. Whether it’s riding a pump track, levelling up parkour tricks, Nordic walking or ice skating inside a football stadium, high-energy pastimes are highly visible, and all generations are involved. Varied landscape and imaginative architecture deliver fun and set challenges for any age group.

And, that’s right, everyone’s invited!

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Climbing

Walls and Limestone Peaks With its opportunities for mountain climbing largely limited to its southern border, Poland has certainly made a statement about loving the sport by opening the world’s tallest artificial-climbing wall near Szczecin, using a 252-metre stack at a post-industrial WISKORD site.

The renowned Jura KrakowskoCzęstochowska (pictured) region is our favourite limestone retreat, with its variety of natural trails and the beautifully friendly environment. Urbanclimbing centres thrive here, presenting the full spectrum of challenges. All due to our creative route-mappers and caring founders building up their local climbing communities •

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Sport

Poles’ Sports Participation

Football

51% 32% bike 20% fitness 17% swimming 11% team sports 7% running 6% winter sports 5% chess and checkers 3% fitness gym 3% dance 3% tennis, paddle, pickleball 2% fishing

no sports at all

Basketball

From Camp to Dunk Nationwide NBA excitement was instilled into basket heads by the Dream Team’s dominance in 1992. While our traditions go back well beyond the early 1990s, vibrant communities of basketball fans and amateur leagues have blossomed exponentially since then. Now, they’re found in plenty of cities and towns.

Over the years, we’ve seen how NBA legends from LeBron James to Kevin Durant and Steph Curry are impressed by Polish dunkers, including Rafał Lipiński and Piotr Grabowski, who’ve won multiple titles at FIBA World Tour events. If you’re open to the combo of competitive sports and charitable goals, visit the annual game pitting Gortat Team against that of the Polish Army, organised by NBA vet Marcin Gortat, who has also developed the country’s largest basketball summer camp •

Grassroots Glory The Polish for football, visible all across the country, is reflected by almost 3,000 Orlik (Little Eagle) facilities providing quality sporting infrastructure and football pitches that are reliably maintained and accessible.

Along with after-hours school facilities, Orliks provide spaces to train, compete and socialise. A high point among local clubs, AKS Zły (Alternative Sport Club) received the 2019 UEFA Grassroots Award for Europe’s best amateur club for its constructive experimentation with democratic governance and

multicultural inclusion. Polish Amputee footballers garnered national attention, winning the bronze medal at the European championship. They continue to inspire people with disabilities to enjoy physical activity and to participate competitively.

A new wave of footballing is also visible: street, panna and freestyle enthusiasts take over social media and flourish internationally. Agnieszka Mnich (below) is a case in point, claiming her fifth world championship in freestyle football in 2024 •

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Sport

Parkour and trampoline parks

Acrobatic Adventures The global quest for finding physical-activity forms attractive enough to engage kids and teens is an uphill battle, with screens and digital media winning over youngsters’ attention and spare time. A possible answer to this growing concern are popular forms of natural movement and free play. Gdynia Parkour Academy brings the thrill of urban acrobatics to schools in the Tri-city area of Gdańsk, Sopot and Gdynia, leading phys-ed classes for students and teachers. Trampoline parks includ-

ing Hangar 646 have gained considerable prominence, with instructors offering spectacular stunt showcases along with easy-to-start and tough-to-master experiences for kids, and a memorable family time.

Picture above: Open Ząbkowska Festival – summertime event organised as part of revitalising the Stara Praga district of Warsaw •

Tennis, paddle, pickleball

To the Moon!

Given that competitive tennis has been a tradition for over a century here, you’ll find quality infrastructure across the country. Professional wins by our athletes have made it increasingly popular, with the result that tennis courts in larger cities often need to be booked well in advance. Alongside tennis on the courts, paddle tennis – aka POP tennis – and pickleball are gaining traction, reflecting their global rise in popularity in the early 2020s •

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Sport

Water activities

Winter sports

Running

Serenity Afloat

Catch You on the Ice Rink

Poles on the Run

Certainly known for the wide, sandy beaches of the country’s 510-kilometre Baltic coastline, Poland is also proud home of over 7,000 lakes. Love sailing?

Want to try stand-up paddleboarding? Head to the Mazury, Pomorze and Wielkopolska regions, where wide-ranging lake districts await. You’ll find opportunities to sail the many interconnecting inland routes and enjoy marinas providing everything a deckhand is after. While there, enjoy the quality designs, such as Lake Słupeckie’s round piers by Paweł Grobelny, awarded the DNA Paris Design Award in 2024, and the Mikołajki riverfront promenade by KAPS. Into kayaking? Join a river-group excursion, perfect for tourism, school groups, corporate-team building. Each summer, the Hel Peninsula fills with wind- and water-sport enthusiasts, plenty of them kiteboarding and windfoiling •

With recent changes in weather patterns, snow and low temperatures are less prevalent across the nation, which only increases the demand for family sledging, cross-country and alpine skiing and snowboarding. Ice skating remains the top winter activity and many cities sport seasonal public facilities. In Warsaw, the National Stadium’s ice rink ranks among Europe’s largest, welcoming more than half a million people during annual wintertime operations.

When at the riverside or in the lake districts, you’re likely to encounter ice-swimming groups and can attend winter-swimming sessions, as the invigorating power of ice-water bathing has appreciably broadened its domestic sub-zero fandom •

Home to 13 annual marathons and hundreds of local running communities, the country has undergone an impressive popularisation of urban and cross-country running. You’ll easily spot runners in every city, many which host regular longdistance running events and obstacle-running festivals, such as Runmageddon, and most are open to runners with disabilities. The Butcher’s Run Festival is the flagship cross-country event, held annually in the picturesque low range of the Bieszczady Mountains, where competitions may be a few kilometres or may reach gruelling ultra-marathon levels. Running also takes a place on the patriotic calendar, with events held during Independence Day festivities. A notable trend among seniors is Nordic walking, as lush greenery in and around urban areas offers plenty of space to explore and socialise •

Sport Biking

From Roads to Stunts Bike riding is the most popular regular physical activity nationwide. Domestically designed and built bicycles and e-bikes are sought-after export goods.

Besides standard urban cycling infrastructures, an ongoing investment programme to expand long-distance bike trails already has several sections in operation. The Baltic Sea Cycle Route and East Europe Route (affectionately called Best of the East) are both part of the larger Eurovelo network.

Cross-country and downhill riding centres grow steadily in places including Bielsko-Biała in the mountainous south and Srebrna Góra. Our world-class pump-track industry delivers top-notch tracks all over Po-

225 land and other European countries, thanks to Veloprojekt and BT Projekt, among others. For a welcome adrenaline surge, check out the daredevils who are the Godziek Brothers, with creativity and legendary skills translating into death-defying stunts watched worldwide The road bicycle race Tour de Pologne is one of the most prestigious Polish sport events, with a 96-year long tradition. In addition, the Tour de Pologne Amatorów (aimed at amateur cyclists) has been held since 2010 •

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Sport

Roller sports

Rollerskating is massively popular in Poland. In some cities, along with many recreational routes, you’ll find Night Skating events, with bladers taking over main streets and skating around downtown areas in groups that can reach an astounding 5,000 people. World Skate Poland has reshaped the landscape of local roller-sports

culture and workshops. New yet already common is personal training with a certified instructor. In summertime, hundreds of kids from 7 to 18 travel to Przysucha in the Mazowieckie region for holidays at the aptly titled Woodcamp, Europe’s only lakeside campsite with three skateparks for skaters, rollerbladers and scooter fans •

As the fastest growing fitness market in Europe since the early 2010s, we’ve experienced its meteoric rise as an industry. Renowned trainers have successfully bootstrapped their enterprises into local powerhouses, with Ewa Chodakowska, Anna Lewandowska and WK DZIK leading the way. Gym companies have grown their networks into most of our towns and the country hosts the largest regional fitness fair: FIWE. Calisthenics and acrobatics gained visibility during the 2010s, with outdoor street-workout gyms

becoming significantly popular. While visiting Warsaw, you could suddenly find yourself in the midst of the iconic Świętokrzyski Bridge’s gym, a perfect place to meet up and train or to watch some of the best local and visiting athletes pushing their limits in front of the riverfront promenade’s endless pedestrian crowds •

Roll on Through the Night

Fitness

Fitness in and out

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Poles at the Olympic Games 1924 Paris (22) 23 1928 Amsterdam (21) 12333 1932 Los Angeles (14) 1123333 1936 Berlin (22) 222333 1948 London (34) 3 1952 Helsinki (20) 1223 1956  Cortina d'Ampezzo (12) 3 1956 Melbourne (17) 122223333 1960 Rome (9) 11112222223 3333333333 1960  Squaw Valley (11) 23 1964 Tokyo (7) 111111122222 23333333333 1968 Mexico City (11) 11111223333 3333333

Aleksandra Mirosław at the 2024 Paris Olympics, where she won a gold medal in speed climbing

1972  Sapporo (13) 1 1972 Munich (7) 111111122222 333333333 1976 Montreal (6) 1111111222222 3333333333333 1980 Moscow (10) 1112222222222 2233333333333 333333 1988 Seoul (20) 11222223333 33333 1992 Barcelona (19) 11122222233 33333333 1996 Atlanta (11) 111111122222 33333 2000 Sydney (14) 11111122222 333 2002  Salt Lake City (21) 23 2004 Athens (23) 1112233333 2006  Turin (20) 23

2008 Beijing (20) 1112222223 2010  Vancouver (15) 122233 2012 London (30) 1122333333 2014  Sochi (11) 111123 2016 Rio de Janeiro (33) 11222333333 2018  Pijongjang (20) 13 2020 (2021) Tokyo (17) 111122222 33333 2022  Bejing (27) 3 2024 Paris (42) 1222233333 Legend

 Winter Olimpics 1 Gold medal 2 Silver medal 3 Bronze medal (X) Medal rank

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Professional Sport

Women Athletes Leading the Way

Iga Świątek at Roland Garros during the semi-finals against Coco Gauff, June 2024

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Sport

‘You did not wake up to be ordinary.’ This is one of the sporting mottos of Iga Świątek, a tennis player who is breaking more records every year and becoming a living Polish national treasure. Świątek was born in 2001 in Raszyn near Warsaw and, despite being only 23 years old, she is already a five-time winner of Grand Slam tournaments, a bronze medallist at the Paris Olympics and one of the longest-serving leaders of the WTA ranking in the history of the sport (currently 118 weeks and counting).

While breaking world records in tennis, Świątek is also breaking new popularity barriers and, although she is not yet eligible to run for President of Poland (you are eligible once you are 35), she would undoubtedly win the elections. Involved in many social causes, Świątek has also become a symbol of mental-health promotion by supporting many NGOs and actions that advocate this issue.

Nowadays Polish sport stays strong internationally thanks to the achievements of women athletes. There is Aleksandra Mirosław – Polish Spiderwoman – a worldrecord holder in time climbing and gold medallist at the Paris Olympics. Climbing is a young discipline. It made its debut during the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. The competition involves ‘running up’ a 15-metre wall (almost 50 ft) as fast as possible, which is an incredible spectacle on its own. During the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris Mirosław broke her own world record, reaching the top after barely 6.06 seconds.

For many years cycling has remained the most popular discipline practiced by

Poles. A figure who has certainly influenced its popularity is Katarzyna Niewiadoma, the first Polish woman to have won the Tour de France Femmes, in 2024. Niewiadoma has been a leading figure in world cycling for years. She has previously won medals at world, European and Polish championships.

Her victory in the 2024 Tour de France was the result of extremely fierce competition, especially during the final stage with the finish at Alpe d’Huez, where she defended the leader’s yellow jersey.

Poland has a long athletics tradition.

One of its first stars was Halina Konopacka (below), the first Polish Olympic gold medalist. Konopacka won her medal in the discus throw at the 1928 Olympic Games in Amsterdam, paving the way for future stars of Polish athletics.

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Nowadays Polish sport stays strong internationally thanks to the achievements of women athletes.

Among the current crossovers are short-distance runners: Ewa Swoboda, gold medalist in the 100 meters at the Rome 2024 European Championships, Natalia Kaczmarek, the 2018 European champion in the 400 meters and Pia Skrzeszowska, gold medalist in the 100 meters hurdles at the 2022 European Championships in Munich. Also still a shining star of Polish athletics is Anita Wlodarczyk, a three-time Olympic champion and four-time world champion in the hammer throw, making her the world’s most successful athlete in the sport’s history. Among the stars of Polish athletics, we should mention Tomasz Majewski, a two-time Olympic gold medalist in the shot put, Paweł Fajdek, a four-time world champion in the hammer throw, and Wojciech Nowicki, Olympic champion and European champion in the hammer throw. In addition, Marcin Lewandowski, a medalist at the European and world middle-distance championships, and Piotr Lisek, one of Poland’s best pole vaulters, winner of medals at the world and European championships, stand out in their fields. Bartosz Zmarzlik became the speedway world champion for the fifth time (2024).

The chess player Jan-Krzysztof Duda won the title of grandmaster (the highest level of advancement) in 2013, aged just 13.

Duda has been the highest ranked Polish chess player in the FIDE world ratings and statistics for years and has consistently ranked at the top. In 2021, he won the FIDE World Cup, having beaten world heavyweights Magnus Carlsen in the semi-finals and Sergey Karjakin in the final. It was a historic moment as Duda became the first

Pole to have been crowned with this most prestigious title.

Polish professional sport may be mainly represented by individuals, but there are also notable teams with international victories under their collective belt. The men’s volleyball team won a gold medal in 2014, 2018 and a silver medal at the 2022 World Championships. A kind of crowning achievement was the Olympic silver medal in Paris, confirming that volleyball is the queen of team sports in the country on the Vistula River.

One of the greatest achievements of Polish club teams in handball was Vive Tauron Kielce’s victory in the Champions League in 2016. It was a historic event as it was the first time a Polish team had won this esteemed title.

Poland is home to several impressive sports venues that have hosted international sporting events in recent years. The National Stadium in Warsaw, with a capacity of 58,500, is one of the most important, having hosted matches of the 2012 European Football Championship and the 2015 UEFA Europa League final. Tauron Arena in Kraków was the venue for the 2014 Men’s Volleyball World Cup, while Ergo Arena, on the border of Gdańsk and Sopot, regularly hosts international volleyball and basketball tournaments. Silesian Stadium in Chorzów, known as the Witches’ Cauldron, not long ago hosted the acclaimed Diamond League athletics competition, TAURON Speedway Euro Championship and the Silesia Marathon, as well as other events that attract sports fans from every corner of the world •

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1 1. Katarzyna Niewiadoma before the beginning of Stage 7 of Tour de France Femmes, August 2024

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2. Polish volleyball players in a semi-final victory against US during the 2024 Paris ­Olympics

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Food In Poland, the best things happen around the table. It’s where we spend important family moments, celebrate holidays, enjoy time with friends, and meet strangers whom, before long, we befriend. Instead of just catching up, we meet people for ‘coffee’, drop by for dinner, and share meals as a way of showing care, friendship and hospitality – the latter being something Poland is famous for worldwide.

For us, the ideas of seasonality and locality aren’t just empty slogans; they’re principles our grandparents followed in their kitchens and guidelines that today’s chefs still honour. Poland’s unique geographical location allows us to enjoy distinct seasons, each bringing with them characteristic products. Spring is a time for the first green leaves, tangy rhubarb we add to scrumptious cakes for an afternoon snack, crisp radishes and delicate asparagus with a subtle nutty flavour. Summer brings a frenzy of sweet fruits – from strawberries and raspberries to wild berries that

stain lips purple, to plums and peaches leaving shiny gloss on fingers. Each late summer is sweetened by tomatoes ripened in the August sun, and we celebrate the golden autumn with crunchy apples, juicy pears and forest mushrooms. Winter, when fresh produce was once scarce, gave rise to a whole range of traditional preservation techniques, which today, revamped and filtred by current creativity, enhance the flavours of Polish cuisine. These include the aromatic smoking of fish, meats and sheep’s cheeses, pickling in fruity vinegars and fermentation, which extended

Food

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We respect tradition but aren’t afraid to the enjoyment of valuable summer and experiment and innovate. autumn vegetables and fruits.

This approach is embodied by presentPoland’s diverse landscapes – meadows, day chefs who draw from traditional recihills and mountains – are home to unique ecosystems with their own flora and faupes and methods, reinterpreting them for contemporary palates. It’s also reflected by na, providing an abundance of products innovative food producers – pastry chefs for our kitchens. Lakes offer freshwater who combine classic French techniques fish, forests give us fruits, mushrooms with fruits that taste like they came from and game, hills are home to orchards and Grandma’s garden, brewers who embrace nowadays also to vineyards, while the low-waste methods to find uses for fermountains are traditionally where sheep are herded. menting leftovers, plant-based producers Polish cuisine is also a celebration of offering alternatives to the dairy prodcultural diversity, influenced by the tastes ucts so closely associated with Poland, and and traditions brought here by other naambitious winemakers, pioneers of this emerging industry. tions from different corners of the world.

Polish cuisine has many faces – it is Located in the heart of Europe, we’ve alabout feasts in Michelin-starred restauways been at a crossroads, proud of and cherishing our own flavours, but also open rants, the tradition of affordable milk bars, and eager to try new ones. Today, while we but also a picnic in the park or a fruit-filled hold our mothers’ chicken broth or grandpastry taken for the road. Ours is a cuisine that’s for everyone, and everyone is welfathers’ raspberry jam close to our hearts and love sharing our cuisine with guests come at our table. We invite you to join us • from other countries, we also enjoy trying new things and experiencing the world.

Weekly lunch in the field at an ecological farm run by Ludwik Majlert, Białołęka, Warsaw

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Food

I’m from Poland, and that’s how I cook. In my restaurant, I like to use everyday ingredients, including those that have been somewhat forgotten. We often marvel at exotic novelties, but we also have our own unique-tasting products – gooseberries, wild strawberries, and my favorite, white currants. It’s truly wonderful to see guests, not only from abroad but also from Poland, react to them with great ­enthusiasm.

Food

Przemek Klima Chef and restaurateur Born in Kraków, Przemek Klima left his hometown to gain experience in prestigious Polish and later international restaurants.

In 2019, he decided to return to Kraków to lead the kitchen at Bottigliera1881, which in 2023 became the first restaurant in Poland to receive two Michelin stars. In his cuisine, Przemek showcases the best of his native Małopolska region – seasonal vegetables, wild mushrooms, forest fruits, game and freshwater fish. He enjoys drawing inspiration from traditional recipes but filters them through his own aesthetics and taste. In his cooking, he follows the principle of ‘less is more’, allowing ingredients to tell their own story on the plate and delight guests with their natural, authentic flavour •

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Food

Pierogi Pierogi are one of Poland’s flagship dishes. However, this name in fact refers to a whole family of diverse delicacies. Most often, it refers to dough parcels shaped like half-moons, stuffed with various fillings, such as mashed potatoes and cheese, with sautéed sauerkraut and wild mushrooms, or minced meat. A summer specialty is fruit-filled pierogi, such as those with wild blueberries or cherries, served with melted butter or cream and sweetened with a bit of sugar. Uszka (little ears), small dumplings filled with chopped mushrooms, have a similar shape to pierogi and are typically served During Christmas as

an accompaniment to meatless beet-root barszcz soup. When talking about pierogi, one cannot forget their relatives: kopytka (potato dumplings shaped like diamonds), szare kluski (grey dumplings made of raw potatoes, a specialty in Wielkopolska), kluski śląskie (round-shaped Silesian dumplings made from cooked potatoes, resembling donuts), pyzy (ball-like dumplings made from potato dough, stuffed with meat or mushrooms) and finally, knedle — round dumplings made from cheese dough, with plums or apricots inside •

Apples

Goose

Poland is a land of apples. Not only are we the largest producer of these fruits in Europe, but we also love them! If you visit a market or greengrocer during the season, you’ll see apples in not just a few but in dozens of varieties! Everyone has their favourite kind of apple. Soft and sweet Lobo, juicy Ligol, crispy Cortland and old varieties that resist trends and still have their dedicated fans: early summer White Transparent variety (papierówka, which can be translated as paper apples), Cox apples, or finally Gray Renette, which, due to its sweet-tart taste, is a favourite for apple pies and tarts.

While in Poland, try local ciders, especially produced by small, boutique-like cideries which use old-time, less common varieties of apples •

In the past, goose held an important place in Polish cuisine, and today – thanks to the efforts of Slow Food Polska and culinary enthusiasts – it is once again present on tables after years of being forgotten. Goose is a seasonal product traditionally associated with late autumn and winter. Goose was customarily served on 11 November, St. Martin’s Day, who, according to a legend, was saved from death by these white-feathered birds. Today, it’s becoming a traditional dish for Independence Day (11 November), often accompanied with young Polish wines. Polish goose is well-known to gourmets abroad for its high quality and flavour. In the fall, it dominates restaurant menus, often served with seasonal fruits, sauerkraut and sauces based on wild berries.

A true delicacy is półgęsek – a cured goose breast with a dark brown colour and rich umami flavour – perfect to enjoy as an ­appetiser or to complement a cheese and charcuterie board •

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Food

Polish cuisine has been influenced by many inspirations, which changed it significantly over time. The common denominator of its many forms is the dumpling.

For me, Polish cuisine stands with the dumpling – says Klaudia Górak.

Monika Mazurek and Klaudia Górak Manager and chef, restaurateurs In 2020, Monika and Klaudia launched Peaches Gastro Girls, which immediately won the hearts of food lovers – not only in Warsaw, where Peaches and Lychees, their two restaurants, are located. Peaches is a true festival of plant-based cuisine – unique, delicious and surprising in its flavours. Seasonal vegetables and fruits sourced from local farms are elevated with Argentine salsas, Japanese miso, Balkan ‘lutenitsa’ sauce or Korean chili. Peaches is synonymous with a kitchen that vibrates with aromas and colours, inspiring and opening new tastes while celebrating the richness of Polish produce.

A must-try, no less! •

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Food

Honey Honey is true liquid gold. Before sugar arrived in Europe, honey was used to sweeten dishes, added to baked goods, desserts, as well as savoury dishes, and was also the base for making mead – a fermented, low-alcohol beverage. Polish honey is as exceptional as our nature and the flowers from which bees collect nectar. From the delicate, almost transparent acacia honey

to the creamy, buttery-like rapeseed honey that you can spread on bread for a perfect sweet treat, to linden and heather honey, and finally, to the buckwheat honey with its dark amber colour and deep, borderline savoury flavour. Beekeeping is becoming more common not only in rural areas but also in cities. Studies have shown that urban honey is completely safe to eat and, due to the unique characteristics of urban flora, has interesting and unique flavours.

Bees are important pollinators, so their presence in cities positively impacts urban nature and supports its biodiversity •

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Michał Korkosz Author, creator of ‘Rozkoszny’ (Delicious) If there’s one person who has inspired young (and notso-young) Poles to cook, it’s Michał ‘Rozkoszny’ Korkosz.

Through his books, blog and Instagram posts, the chef promotes Polish flavours to an international audience, encouraging them to prepare pierogi (Polish dumplings), ‘racuchy’ (fluffy apple fritters), or his version of cheesecake that instantly become viral hits. At the same time, he shows his local audience how familiar home dishes can be ‘spiced up’ with less known ingredients or seasonings, adding energy and variety to everyday cooking •

For me, Polish cuisine is our identity expressed through what’s on our plates. For everyone, it’s a little different. Some of us are partial to nostalgic flavours remembered from Grandma’s kitchen, like lazy pierogi or tomato soup with dumplings, but it’s also what surrounds us today. I like to think of Polish cuisine as a living, breathing thing, constantly evolving and adapting to the times we are in.

So, pierogi with roasted celery and dill oil, or pasta with caramelised red onions and smoked cheese, are Polish to me – just a new kind.

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Mushrooms Forests cover one-quarter of Poland’s land area and the wild, edible plants, fruits and mushrooms that grow there are an important part of our traditional pantry. It’s estimated that more than a thousand species of edible mushrooms grow in Poland (note: there are also inedible and poisonous mushrooms in the forests, but fortunately, they are a minority – about 200–250 species). Here are a few wild-growing mushrooms that are especially worth trying.

The most prized is the ‘king of mushrooms’—the noble boletus (Boletus edulis), with a bulky stem and a brown cap, distinguished by its unique nutty, slightly sweet aroma, which is highly valued by food lovers. Where there are boletus mushrooms, you’ll often find bay bolete (Imleria badia), with golden stems and dark brown caps.

Fresh boletus and bay bolete mushrooms are perfect for sautéing with butter and herbs, making sauces or fillings.

Dried mushrooms also play a key role in Polish cuisine – in the past, before freezers

and supermarkets were a common part of our daily lives, dried mushrooms could be used during months when fresh products were unavailable. Today, the distinctive flavour of dried mushrooms is an essential element in many traditional dishes served during Christmas time, such as the filling for uszka, small dumplings served with barszcz, dumplings with cabbage and mushrooms, or as various savoury fillings.

The mushroom season usually starts with golden, dainty chanterelles (Cantharellus cibarius), commonly eaten sautéed with butter, in scrambled eggs or in creamy sauces. Another favourite is the saffron milk cap (Lactarius deliciosus)— small mushrooms with a pinkish orange colour and a unique flavour that some say resembles chicken! Saffron milk caps are a significant part of the cuisine of the sub-mountain and mountain regions – they are traditionally fried in a dry pan or with a little butter to fully experience their ­flavour •

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For most people, Polish cuisine means potatoes, cabbage and pork chops. But from my perspective, Polish cuisine is regional. Despite the misconception that it’s all about meat and heavy dishes, there are plenty of vegetarian recipes that can open your mind.

It’s a wonderful blend of culture and tradition, combined with wild herbs and what we can forage from nature. It’s seasonal cooking, pickling and preserving. A great field for culinary experimentation – even in this modern world, there’s room for a bit of tradition.

Piotr Ciemny Wild plant expert, author, creator of Chwasty od Kuchni (Weeds from the Kitchen) Through working in fine-dining restaurants, Piotr Ciemny discovered the wealth of wild edible plants hiding right under our noses – or rather, under our feet and above our heads.

A chef and culinary author, Piotr combines his restaurant experience with botanical knowledge to show how wild-growing edible plants and fruits can be used in home cooking. Rowan jelly, elderflower soda, or plums prepared like olives are just a few of the exciting things that can appear on your table.

He shares his recipes in cookbooks, workshops and on his Instagram profile, where he showcases the diverse and flavourful Polish flora •

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Cheeses Although Poland may not be as renowned for its cheeses as Italy or France, it also offers some noteworthy options. One of the must-try cheeses is twaróg, a fresh cottage cheese typically made from cow’s milk, creamy, grainy and textured, with a hint of acidity. It’s a staple of breakfasts, served with fresh chives, green onions and slices of radish, or enjoyed sweet with honey or preserves. Twaróg is also used in cooking and baking: it’s one of the ingredients in the filling of popular pierogi, half-moon shaped stuffed dumplings and is also used to make fluffy ‘lazy’ dumplings, as well as, of course, sernik – cheesecake, one of Poland’s favourite cakes. A regional specialty from the eastern region of Podlasie is koryciński cheese, a hard cow’s milk cheese often flavoured with herbs, spicy black cumin, or fenugreek, with a subtle nutty taste.

One of the most famous cheeses is oscypek: a smoked, hard cheese in a double cone shape, made from sheep’s milk. It’s a delicacy typical of the Podhale and Tatra

regions. It’s worth knowing that oscypek was the first Polish product to be included in the Ark of Taste, a list of exceptional local food products created by the international Slow Food organisation, and in 2008, as the second product after bryndza podhalańska, it received the EU’s Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) certification.

Two other cheeses characteristic of the Tatra region are bundz – a slightly sweet, young sheep’s milk cheese – and bryndza, made from crumbled and matured bundz, which has a distinctive, somewhat sharp flavour. Recent years have also seen the rise of small, artisanal cheese-making workshops, where owners experiment with new flavours and types of cheeses – from fresh to long-aged and blue cheeses made from cow, goat or sheep’s milk.

Poland is one of the leading producers of milk in Europe. Dairy products such as kefir and yoghurt are exported internationally to every corner of the world •

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Beata Śniechowska

Chef, restaurateur, author

In Młoda Polska (Young Poland), her first original restaurant, Beata Śniechowska shows that traditional Polish cuisine can be cool. She serves schnitzels as big as a plate with a refreshing salad of dill, butter sauce and anchovies, pierogi stuffed with creamy curd cheese from Wańczykówka, an organic food producer, and an essence-rich borscht with the butteriest, melt-in-yourmouth mashed potatoes. Everything is just like at Grandma’s, but probably a bit better. In her second restaurant, Baba, Śniechowska celebrates Polish products in her own way – seasonal vegetables from a friendly farm, fruits from local suppliers, artisanal desserts and quality meats used to create unique compositions. In her Instagram series “Chodź zrobimy” (Come, Let’s Make), she shows that preparing home-cooked meals isn’t difficult, and with a few chef’s tricks, simple dishes can become truly special •

Polish cuisine for me is, above all, cuisine full of emotions, consciously based on exceptional products attuned to each season. It’s not just about the dish itself; it’s the broader art surrounding the table, generosity and sincerity. I value clear compositions and always follow a simple form of expression, often involving long and labourintensive preparation.

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Monika Walecka Baker, photographer

Monika Walecka is known as the Bread Goddess. She began baking bread at home and sharing recipes for homemade baked goods on her extremely popular blog. Her regular bread baking was prompted by its… absence. When she moved to Prague, she found it hard to find bread she liked, so she decided to make it herself. Today, Monika runs Cała w Mące (Covered in Flour), an artisan bakery in the Żoliborz district of Warsaw, Tonka, a patisserie in the capital’s Muranów district and ­Focca, a sandwich bar in Żoliborz. Her bakery is famous for sourdough bread and using flours from ancient grains like einkorn and emmer wheat.

During the season, you must try Monika’s jagodzianka – a sweet delicate bun filled with wild forest blueberries. For Poles, jagodziankas embody the taste of summer holidays, and nothing tastes better! •

For me, Polish cuisine is one of the ingredients of my happiness as a Pole. It’s a diverse culinary landscape, great products and chefs who are redefining and rediscovering them. A treasure trove of yet-to-be-discovered recipes that never cease to surprise. ­Fermenting long before pickling became trendy.

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Wine Wine is a great excuse to visit the idyllic corners of Poland, explore its nature, and meet passionate individuals who have decided to encapsulate the country’s terroir in bottles of wine. Poland is considered a ‘new wine country’—although wine was historically produced here, it was never a significant industry (unlike in France or Italy). However, in the last few decades, interest in viticulture and wine production has grown so much that there are now over 600 wineries in Poland, and the number continues to rise. You will find the largest number of vineyards in the Lubuskie, Dolnośląskie and Małopolskie Voivodeships. Other regions, especially Lubelskie (Lesser Poland Gorge of the Vistula

Kamil and Ania Barczentewicz in their vineyard near Kazimierz Dolny in the Lublin region

River), Zachodniopomorskie and Podkarpackie, also boast a significant number of local winemakers. The most popular varietals include johanniter and solaris, but winemakers are increasingly planting noble grape stocks, including riesling and chardonnay. Since Poland’s wine adventure is relatively ‘young,’ winemakers are keen to experiment with styles, producing sparkling wines, orange wines, maturing them in concrete eggs or old barrels, and even making ice wine from frozen grapes.

Polish wines can often be found in restaurants, where they naturally complement dishes based on local produce and seasonal ingredients •

246 Antagain/iStock.com 4–5 Mariusz Cieszewski/poland.pl (49) 6–7, 10–11, 13, 16, 30, 31, 32, 43, 48, 54, 66, 67, 72, 79, 80, 81, 84–85, 92, 92–93, 98, 99, 102, 113, 114, 115, 126, 130, 132–133, 134–135, 142, 145, 147, 150, 151, 153, 156, 158, 165, 224, 242 B a ł t y k 8–9, 65, 74–75 Chuck Fishman/Getty Images 14 European Solidarity Centre 14 Jaceko06/iStock.com 15 Press Images of Netflix 16 Robbie Jay Barratt - AMA/ Getty Images 16 Fanny Vaucher 18–19 Press Images of Pan Tu Nie Stał 20, 97 PAP/Jan Morek 22 Marek Ogień 23 Agnieszka Szewczyk 23 Marcin Michon/WOŚP 24 Courtesy of Polish Aid 24–25 WATAN/PAH 25 Sisi Cecylia/Puszka Foundation 26–27 Stan Barański/River Sisters 28–29 USO/iStock.com 30 EvgeniyQ/iStock.com 30 Jan Miko/iStock.com 30 Szymon Bartosz/ iStock.com 30, 164 Press Images of Fenek 34 Press Images of Marcelina Januszkiewicz 34 Aga Bilska/ibelieveinpaper.com 35 Press Images of BOHOBOCO 35 Press Images of Orska 35 Ra2nski 37 Artur Frankowski/ Typespotting 38 Tomo Yarmush 38 Marek Gardulski 38 Alicja Lesiak 38 Olga Tuz/Lupo Pasta Fresca 39 Tomasz Poręba 40 Adam Stępień/Agencja Wyborcza.pl (2) 41 Borek/Plac Zabaw 42 Grzegorz Mart/Warsaw Autumn Festival 42 Bartek Barczyk/Komuna Warszawa 43 Cezary Warś/City of Warszawa 44–45 Aga Bilska 46 Krzysztof Sawicki/Otwarty Jazdów 47 Adam Pluciński/Zwykłe Życie 47 Filip Klimaszewski 47 Marta Ejsmont/MSN 49 Michał Szlaga 50

Kamil Kalkowski/City of Katowice 53, 55 Press Images of Gryfnie 54, 56 Krzysztof Szewczyk/Katowice Miasto Ogrodów 55 Alicja Bielawska 56–57 Mirosław Skórka/Alamy/Be&W 57 Silesia Neon 57 Tomasz Poraj/iStock.com 58–59 Radek Kaźmierczak/LOKAL 59 Press Images of Słodki Kafej 59 Dawid Chalimoniuk/ Agencja Wyborcza.pl 59 Przemo Łukasik 60 Aga Bilska/Wydawnictwo Agora 60 Courtesy of Zamek Centre for Culture in Cieszyn 61 City of Cieszyn/ visitpoland.online 60–61 Press Images of Muzeum Śląskie w Katowicach 62 Press Images of NOSPR 62 Marianna Sosnowska 65 Tomasz Dresler/Port Gdańsk 66 Karol Kacperski 67 Marek Bazak/East News 68 Press Images of Montownia 68 Press Images of Masło Maślane 69 Press Images of Tygle Gdańskie 69 Press Images of Niesztuka 69 Press Images of Bar Przystań 69 Bartek Sejwa 70–71 City of Sopot 70–71, 71 Maciek Wróblewski 71 Polona.pl 72 Gdynia.pl 72 Dominika Scheibinger/ALTER ART Open’er Festival 73 Ewa Płonka/ALTER ART - Open’er Festival 73 Gdynia City Museum 73 Konrad Rogoziński/ MOT Archives 77 Press Images of Targowa 2 80 Michał Ramus/michalramus.com for KBF 80–81 Michał Ramus/32nd Jewish Culture Festival 80–81 Zarząd Zieleni Miejskiej, City of Kraków 82 J. Gawron/MOT Archives 82 Tomasz Pietrzyk/Agencja Wyborcza.pl 83 MOT Archives 83, 89 Adam Brzoza 84 Press Images of Wieliczka Salt Mine 86–87 Joanna Gałuszka for KBF 88 Press Images of OFF Piotrkowska 91

Courtesy of Fundacja Plaster 94 Piotr Tomczyk/MSL 94–95 Antoni Sergiusz de Brade/ Ignorantka 95 Cezary Pecold/East News 95 Błażej Pindor/Central Museum of Textiles 96–97 Press Images of Central Museum of Textiles 96, 97 Grzegorz Piotrowski 97 Press Images of Poznański Palace 99 Marcin Stępien/Agencja Wyborcza.pl 99 Grzegorz Januszewicz/City of Olsztyn (5) 101, 102–103, 103, 106 Olsztyn Green Festival 102 Jakub Obarek/City of Olsztyn 103 Joanna Barchetto-Sojka (3) 104, 105 Press Images of Kwaśne Jabłko 105 Piotr Magdziarz 106 City of Wrocław (3) 109, 110 Marek Maruszak/Be&W 110–111 Courtesy of 66P Subjective Institution of Culture 110–111 Haze Photo/Neon Side Wrocław 111 Chris Niedenthal/Forum 112 Miłosz Poloch/Nowe Horyzonty 113 Contemporary Art Foundation In Situ/Sokołowsko 114 PatrikSlezak/iStock.com 115 ewg3D/iStock.com 116 Robert Woźniak/ Malta Festival 119 Edyta Leszczak 120 City of Poznań 120 Kwiaty i Miut 121 Eliza Mórawska/ whiteplate.com 121 Łukasz Gdak/Estrada Poznańska 121 Stonewall Poznań 122–123 Łukasz Łukasiewicz/Lokum Stonewall 122 Zbigniew Zachariasik/Estrada Poznańska 123 Courtesy of Hadaki 124 Courtesy of Concordia Design 124, 124–125 Przemysław Turlej/Wierciński Studio 124 Agnieszka Kowalska 124, 148 Sebastian Wołosz 129 Damian Róż (5) 130, 133, 135 Monika Szymanik (2) 131 Olga Iwanow/Muzeum Szczecin w PRL 131 Oskar Dyrdał 131, 132 Press Images of Hania Beza 131

Photo Credits NASA/Dave Scott/Public Domain Andrzej Golc/TRAFO 132 via Wikimedia Commons 181 City of Czaplinek 134 AGH University of Cracow 182 City of Bydgoszcz 137 Mirosław Kazimierczak/ City of Toruń 137 University of Warsaw 183 M. Zaborowski/ Courtesy of Marta Łuksza 183 City of Bydgoszcz 138 Courtesy of Zieta Studio 184 Robert Sawicki 138 Courtesy of Maria JagliskaPress Images of Opera Nova -Adamczewska, Office for Design Bydgoszcz 139 & Research 186 Courtesy of Animocje 139 Courtesy of Arkadiusz Szwed 186 Sławomir Kowalski 140 Courtesy of Maja Ganszyniec Małgorzata Litwin 140 Studio 186 Krzysztof Deczyński 140 Courtesy of Studio Speculo 187 Wojtek Szabelski 141 Aleksandra Szajnecka/ Toruńska Agenda Kulturalna 141 REST Studio 187 Ginger Bread Museum Courtesy of DOKI Design 187 in Toruń 143 Courtesy of Grynasz Studio 187 City of Lublin (4) 146, 147, 148 Martyna Galla/B Sides 188 Wojciech Mietelski 146 M. Surovy/Atomy 189 Dorota Bielak/CSK 148 Press Images of Oplotka 189 Lublin Tobacco Factory 149 Kulesza & Pik/Chylak 190 Press Images of Ośrodek Brama Press Images of Sterkowski 191 Grodzka - Teatr NN 150 Daria-Szczygieł/ Michał Heller/OiFP 153 Invest Komfort 191 Barbara Budnicka/Arsenał Tomo Yarmush/Nów 192 Gallery 154–155 Dzikie Studio 192 Krzysztof Bieliński/ Karolina Gorzelańczyk/Splot 193 Puppetnotpuppet 154 Maja Ganszyniec Studio for Krzysztof Karpiński/eUTDF24 154 Paradyż 193 Press Images of Radek Zawadzki/Kłosy 193 Ziołowy Zakątek 157 Courtesy of Jakub Józef Orliński Press Images of 4 Szpaki 157 195 Piotr Tarasiuk 158 Press Images of Gutek Film 196 Press Images of Muzeum PodGetty Images 196 laskie 158 Łukasz Bąk 197 City of Rzeszów 161, 163 Jason Merritt/Getty Images 197 Tadeusz Poźniak 162–163 Piotr Koscielniak/iStock.com 162 Martyna Galla 198 Yan Wasiuchnik/Kayax 198 Courtesy of Délice 162–163 Press Images of Krosno Glass 165 Courtesy of Young Leosia 199 Marta Mach 199 Renata Dąbrowska/Agencja Michał Murawski/ Wyborcza.pl 167 ishootmusic.eu 199 Press Images of Solaris 168 Jakub Szarzyński 200–201 Press Images of ICEYE 169 Associated Press/East News 202 Press Images of AIUT 170 Wydawnictwo Literackie 202 Press Images of Saule 170 Tomasz Gotfryd 202 Press Images of XTPL 171 Szymon Rogiński 203 Press Images of WB GROUP 171 Leonardo Cendamo/Getty ImPress Images of ages 203 CD Projekt Red 172–173 Tramuntana 204 RossHelen/iStock.com 174 Dwie Siostry 204, 205 Press Images of InPost 175 Libra 204 Press Images of Żabka 176 Thames&Hudson 204 Press Images of Docplanner 176 Helium 205 Loveshiba/iStock.com 176 Gestalten 205 Miniseries/iStock.com 177 Marco Borggreve 206 Press Images of CCC Group 178 Kuba Dąbrowski 206–207 Press Images of Wielton 179 Courtesy of Filip Press Images of Inglot 179 Pągowski 208–209 Press Images of LPP 179 Courtesy of Piotr K. Ulaczyk/J. Skowron/ Młodożeniec 209 OGLE 180–181 Andrzej Pągowski Art Gallery 209

247 Courtesy of Fontarte 209 Courtesy of Jakub PIONTY Jezierski 209 Nowe Horyzonty 210 Kultura Gniewu 211 Andrzej Iwańczuk/Reporter 212 Magda Hueckel/Nowy Teatr 212 Pat Mic/Komuna Warszawa 213 Karolina Zajączkowska 213 Bartosz Stawiarski/MSN 214 Courtesy of Karol Radziszewski 214 Courtesy of Raster Gallery, Warsaw 214–215 Dita Pepe 215 Tytus Szabelski/Zachęta National Gallery Archives 215 Beata Zawrzel/Reporter 215 Press Images of XY Studio 216–217 Jakub Certowicz 218 Paweł Świerkowski 219 Courtesy of Aleksandra Wasilkowska 219 Janusz Nowak 219 Marcin Ciepielewski 221 Courtesy of Agnieszka Mnich 222 Piotr Matey/Skwer Sportów Miejskich Foundation 223 Pomorze Zachodnie 225 Krzysztof Łazik 226 Michael Reaves/ Getty Images 227 Clive Brunskill/Getty Images 228 NAC 229 Julien de Rosa/AFP/ East News 231 Matthew Stockman/ Getty Images 231 Rafał Milach 233 Małgosia Minta, from book

by Przemysław Klima Fun dining. Prosto i genialnie, Znak (3) 234, 235 Alexandr Vorontsov/ iStock.com 236 Macieja Cioch 237 Sylwia Zaczkiewicz 237 Galdric/iStock.com 238 Karo Ramos 239 Courtesy of Michał Korkosz 239 Knape/iStock.com 240 Małgosia Minta (3) 241, 243 Paulina Adamiuk – This Flavorful Life 241 Aleksandra Pavoni 244 Monika Walecka 244 Press Images of Kamil Barczentewicz Vineyard 245

About

Editorial team

Graphic design and typesetting

Agnieszka Kowalska, Bogna Świątkowska / Bęc Zmiana New Culture Foundation / www.beczmiana.pl

Tomek Bersz Photo editor Marianna Sosnowska

Tomek Bersz, Helena Chmielewska-Szajfer, Wojtek Gajewski, Joanna Glinkowska, Małgorzata Minta, Bartosz ­Stefaniak, Monika Wróbel Warsaw / Warszawa 2024 Fourth edition ISBN 978-83-68207-11-8 Published by The Ministry of Foreign Affairs of The Republic of Poland

Texts Helena Chmielewska-Szajfer, Anna Cymer, Grzegorz Gądek, Joanna Glinkowska, Harel, Szymon Holcman, Agnieszka Jacobson-Cielecka, Agnieszka Kowalska, Agnieszka Kozak, Aleksandra Litorowicz, Jan Mencwel, Małgorzata Minta, Grzegorz Piątek, Kinga Rabińska, Marta Ryczkowska, Iga Skolimowska, Jędrzej Słodkowski, Bartosz Stefaniak, Joanna Śmigiel, Dominik Tokarski, Mike Urbaniak, Ewelina Wakulewska, Joanna Wiśniowska, Monika Wróbel, Fanny Vaucher

Prepress Oleh Diakon Sources for selected infographics: Sara Majcher-Wojciechowska, Iga Skolimowska, Bartosz Stefaniak The National Census 2021 (p. 17), www.turystykakrakow.pl and www.bip.krakow.pl (p. 84), www.olsztyn.eu (p. 107), Discover Polska 2024 – Report elaborated for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs by Bartosz Stefaniak (pp. 173, 174 I 177), www.stat.gov.pl/en/topics/culture-tourism-sport (p. 222) Book is set with fonts Neue Haas Unica, Skolar

Translations Bartosz Wójcik (coordinator), Małgorzata Paprota, Monika Rokicka, Aleksandra Szczypa Proofreading Alan Lockwood

Printed and bound in Poland

by SINDRUK, Opole, www.sindruk.pl