of BBQ Harrison County joints serve up barbecue in all its iterations

story by Sadiq King | photos by Les Hassell & File Photos

Nothing says summer like the smell of barbecue wafting through the air. From classic pulled pork to mouthwatering brisket, there’s something for everyone. Barbecue is more than just a meal — it’s a tradition that’s been passed down for generations. Slow-smoking meats over wood coals have a rich history in Texas, and its enduring popularity has made it an iconic and beloved part of American cuisine. Harrison County is home to some of the best barbecue spots in Texas, and we’re excited to highlight them in this issue. Get ready to dig in and discover the rich history and mouth watering flavors of barbecue.

The rich history of this style of cooking meats dates back centuries. The origins of it can be traced back to the Caribbean, where indigenous people slow-cooked meat over a fire. The technique eventually made its way to the United States, where it became a popular way to cook meat in the South.

In the 1800s, the act became a staple at community events and celebrations. People would gather around the pit to watch the meat cook and enjoy the company of their friends and family. Barbecue quickly became a symbol of Southern hospitality and a way to bring people together.

Today, that sweet and savory taste is enjoyed all over the country and has become a cultural phenomenon. There are many different types of barbecue, each with its own unique flavor and cooking technique.

If you’re looking for old-school Southern barbeque, look no further than BBQ Express.

“I cook it like you cook it at the house,” said Herbert White, the owner and founder of BBQ Express. Located at 801 Elmore St. in Marshall, this family-owned restaurant has been serving up mouthwatering barbecue for over 20 years. White starts with a rub and the stripping of membranes before he puts his meat on the pit. Once he gets it to the perfect temperature, he starts cooking the meat.

“Most people don’t tenderize their meat,” White explained. “After tenderizing your meat, whatever drips off your meat you need to put it back on there.” He pointed out how meat sweats and stops sweating while in a pit. “The pores are opening and closing in meat,” said White. “You got to know something about cooking it instead of just throwing something to- gether. I’ve never thrown anything together around here. I got a lot of love for my cooking. My clients that come here tell me the same thing. That I pay more attention to the process.”

He explained how when the pores of the meat close up it draws the seasoning back into the meat. When juices begin to drip, he advises for you to mop them back on before you put the meat back on the grill.

BBQ Express’s signature dish is brisket which is slowcooked for 16 hours and served on a sandwich plate or chopped. What sets BBQ Express apart from other BBQ spots is the love White adds to his cooking and his courtesy to the customers.

Bodacious Bar-B-Q in Hallsville is the place to go if you’re craving East Texas-style barbecue. Run and solely operated by husband and wife Gabriel and Kasie Ritter, this Hallsville location has been recognized by Texas Monthly for “Top 50 Honorable Mentions” in 2021. Also “2021 Best Bites of the Year” for their sausage boudin, “2018 Best Bites of the Year” for their pork steak, and “2017 Best Bites of the Year” for their brisket. This award-winning restaurant is known for its specialties like its in-house sausage and boudin of different kinds and of course its signature Bodacious BBQ sauce. Their menu features a wide variety of smoked meats, such as tender bris- ket, juicy ribs and flavorful sausage.

Ritter has been barbecuing for over 30 years.

“I started working for Bodacious in high school and never left,” said Ritter. He and his wife had another location in Longview before ultimately relocating to Hallsville in September 2013.

The authentic flavors and smoky aroma found at this smokehouse will leave you craving more. What sets Bodacious apart from other barbecue spots is their weekly specials and commitment to using only the highest quality brisket. Bodacious Bar-B-Q is dedicated to preserving the traditions of East Texas-style BBQ.

When you head over to 500 E. Travis St. in Marshall, you’ll find a hidden gem that has that good ol’ Texas barbeque. Pic-N-Pay Texas Style Cookin’ is a casual eatery known for its grilled smoked pork chops. They are chopped locally from Caddo Packing.

“We season them with a dry rub and let it set in for at least 48 hours before I smoke them,” said Greg Soransan, the owner of the establishment. His pork chops are usually served on a plate or as a pork chop sandwich with a side of their homemade barbecue sauce. The menu also features other southern classics like hotdogs, barbecue sandwiches, smoked sausages and hotlinks. What makes Pic-N-Pay Texas Style Cookin’ stand out is its friendly service and laid-back atmosphere, making it the perfect spot for a casual meal with friends.

For those who like grilling meat over an open flame from the comfort of their own yard, the key to a great barbecue is starting with the right cut of meat. For pulled pork, choose a pork shoulder or pork butt. These cuts are known for their marbling and fat content, which helps keep the meat tender and juicy during the slow cooking process. Additionally, their rich flavor enhances the smoky taste that comes from grilling over an open flame. For brisket, choose a whole-packer brisket. This cut includes both the point and flat sections, which perfectly balance lean meat and fat. The marbling in the brisket adds flavor and moisture, resulting in a tender and succulent barbecue experience. For ribs, choose baby back or spare ribs. Baby back ribs are smaller and leaner, making them a great option for those who prefer less fat. They are also known for their tenderness and sweet flavor. On the other hand, spare ribs have more meat and fat, which adds richness and juiciness to the final dish. Both types of ribs can be cooked to perfection on the grill, resulting in a deliciously smoky and mouth watering barbecue. It’s important to choose a cut of meat with enough fat to keep the meat moist during the long cooking process.

Having the right equipment is the foundation for creating barbecue that will have your taste buds singing with joy. Texas natives’ go-to will always be a smoker over a grill. A smoker is the best way to cook meat low and slow, but if you don’t have a smoker, you can use a charcoal or gas grill. Just be sure to set it up for indirect cooking by placing the meat on one side of the grill and the coals or burners on the other.

To give your barbecue flavor, you’ll need to season the meat with a dry rub. A good dry rub should include salt, sugar and spices like paprika, chili powder and cumin. Apply the rub generously to the meat and let it sit for at least an hour before cooking.

The key to a great barbecue is cooking the meat low and slow. So once it’s time to cook the meat, cook it at a low temperature (225-250 degrees F) for a long time (six to 12 hours). The goal is to cook the meat until it’s tender and juicy, and falls off the bone.

To give your barbecue a smoky flavor, you’ll need to use wood. Hickory, mesquite and oak are all good choices. Soak the wood chips or chunks in water for at least 30 minutes before using them. Place them on top of the coals or burners to create smoke.

To keep the meat moist during the long cooking process, you’ll need to baste it with a mop sauce. This is a thin, vinegar-based sauce that’s applied to the meat every hour or so. The acid in the sauce helps to break down the meat fibers and keep it moist.

After the meat is done cooking, let it rest for at least 30 minutes before slicing or shredding it. This allows the juices to redistribute and makes the meat tender.

Exploring the barbecue places in Harrison County has been a delicious adventure. From the smoky brisket at BBQ Express to the tangy sauce at Bodacious, each restaurant has its own unique take on this cuisine. Whether you’re a fan of pulled pork, ribs, brisket, or chicken, there’s something for everyone in Harrison County. Be sure to check out these top barbecue spots. You won’t be disappointed!

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