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A time to remember Embark on your journey, and spend quality time with someone special in Croatia’s charming Capital. Reconnect in Zagreb with one of Sheraton’s fantastic weekend packages, the “romantic getaway” or “wellness revitalization”. Contact us today at: reservations@sheratonzagreb.com or call us: +385 1 455 3535

Romantic package for two or Wellness Revitalization package for two per € night

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©2014 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Sheraton and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms and conditions, visit sheraton.com/zagreb

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ∆ulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Rukovoditeljica marketinga/ Head of Marketing Zlata PrpiÊ

Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek

Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o. Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines

Zahvaljujem vam što ste i u zimskim mjesecima odabrali naš zrakoplov za vaše putovanje. Dobro došli! Nadam se da ćete i u ovome, hladnijem dijelu godine, naći još poneki trenutak za zanimljivo putovanje, posjet nekome od naših odredišta ili, možda, u suradnji s našim partnerima iz Star Alliancea, odletjeti do nekih toplijih krajeva. Podaci pokazuju kako i ovu godinu završavamo pozitivnim poslovnim rezultatom te, što nas osobito raduje, kako sve više putnika leti s nama. Jedan je od njih i hrvatski pijanist svjetskoga glasa Maksim Mrvica, koji je, kao naš dugogodišnji vjerni korisnik, prepoznao kvalitetu usluge na našim letovima i na letovima članica Star Alliancea te postao zaštitno lice u Star Alliance Bespoke kampanji. Upravo s Maksimom Mrvicom, umjetnikom koji je klasičnu glazbu približio ljudima na najrazličitijim dijelovima zemaljske kugle, objavljujemo intervju na prvim stranicama našeg lista. Vrhunski pijanist osobno svjedoči o svojim iskustvima putovanja te prednostima povezanosti preko mreže letova, koja obuhvaća sve dijelove svijeta. Kao uvijek, predstavljamo vam i dio naše kulturne baštine, zanimljiva mjesta te prirodne ljepote naše zemlje, a od gradova, pišemo o Vancouveru, atraktivnome kanadskom odredištu, do kojega možete stići u suradnji s našim novim partnerom, Air Canadom. U 2015. godinu Croatia Airlines ušao je s 12 code share partnera, a osim s Air Canadom, tijekom godine, počeli smo surađivati u prijevozu putnika i sa Singapore Airlinesom. Zbog vas, dragi putnici, trudimo se stalno podizati kvalitetu usluge. Odnedavna Croatia Airlines ima i novi prodajni kanal - FlyMobile, koji omogućava kupnju karte preko mobilnih uređaja. Sada svoju kartu možete kupiti još jednostavnije te još lakše doći do vaših odredišta, obitelji i prijatelja. Putujete li u blagdanskim danima, vjerujem da će vas naši zrakoplovi ugodno i udobno dovesti do vaših najmilijih. Želim vam mnogo lijepih trenutaka u blagdanskim danima i u svim danima koji su pred vama. Neka vam se ostvare svi snovi! Sretan Božić i nova 2016. godina!

Dear passengers,

tel. +385-1-616-01-26 Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

Thank you for choosing Croatia Airlines for your travels during these winter months. Welcome! I hope that during this colder part of the year you will find some time for an interesting trip, a visit to one of our destinations or, perhaps, in cooperation with our partners in Star Alliance, fly to some warmer places. The data show that we are ending yet another year

D. FabijaniÊ

Poπtovani putnici!

with positive business results, and we are particularly pleased that an increasingly larger number of passengers are flying with us. One of them is the world-renowned Croatian pianist Maksim Mrvica who, as our long-time loyal customer, has recognized the quality of service on our flights and on flights of Star Alliance members and has become the brand ambassador in Star Alliance’s Bespoke campaign. On the first pages of our magazine you can find an interview with Maksim Mrvica, the artist who brings classical music closer to people in various parts of the globe. This top-class pianist personally talks about his traveling experiences and the benefits of connections through the network of flights, which cover all parts of the world. As always, we present to you a part of our cultural heritage, places of interest and the natural beauties of our country. As for the cities, in this issue we write about Vancouver, the attractive Canadian destination which can be reached in cooperation with our new partner, Air Canada. Croatia Airlines entered the year 2015 with 12 code share partners, and in the course of the year, in addition to Air Canada, we began cooperation in passenger transport with Singapore Airlines. Because of you, dear passengers, we strive to constantly raise the quality of our services. As of recently, Croatia Airlines has a new sales channel - FlyMobile, which enables our customers to buy tickets via their mobile devices. Now it is even simpler to buy flight tickets, and you can reach your destination, family and friends even easier. If you are traveling during the holiday season, I believe you will be comfortable on our aircraft as they take you to your loved ones. I wish you many wonderful moments during the holiday season and all the days ahead of you. May all your dreams come true! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year 2016! Vaš, Yours faithfully,

Krešimir KuËko Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO CROATIA AIRLINES

SADRÆAJ CONTENTS

6 Razgovor Maksim Mrvica: Volim letjeti! Poznati hrvatski pijanist Maksim Mrvica odnedavno je zaštitno lice Croatia Airlinesa u Star Alliance Bespoke kampanji.

Zima/Winter 2015/2016 www.croatiaairlines.com

John Pavlish

Interview Maksim Mrvica: I like to fly! The renowned Croatian pianist, Maksim Mrvica, has recently become Croatia Airlines’ brand ambassador for the Star Alliance Bespoke campaign. 14 Umjetnost Arheološki muzej, palača na najljepšem trgu Arheološki muzej smješten je u jednoj od najljepših palača u najljepšemu zagrebačkom perivoju na trgu Nikole Šubića Zrinskog.

28 Prirodne ljepote Biokovo, kraljica dalmatinskih planina Biokovo je kraljica dalmatinskih planina, koja orkanskom snagom razdjeljuje Jadran od Zagore, more od kopna, pučinske horizonte od kontinentalnog zaleđa.

Art The Archaeological Museum, a palace at the most beautiful square The Archaeological Museum in Zagreb is located in one of the most beautiful palaces along Zagreb’s most beautiful park at Nikola Šubić Zrinski’s Square.

Natural beauties Biokovo, the queen of the Dalmatian mountains Biokovo is the queen of the Dalmatian mountains, whose hurricane-like forces separate the Adriatic from the Zagora hinterland, the sea from the mainland, and the open sea horizons from the hinterland.

54 Obala Volosko, razigranost Sredozemlja Volosko, mjesto blizu Opatije, u svojoj je povijesti prošlo mnoge uloge, od glavnoga grada regije do modernoga turističkog središta i gastronomske meke. Coast Volosko, playfulness of the Mediterranean Located near Opatija, the town of Volosko has had many different roles throughout its history, from being the capital city of the area to a modern tourist hub and gastronomic mecca.

CROATIA AIRLINES

SADRÆAJ CONTENTS

60 Baština Ozalj, grad sa srcem Stari grad Ozalj, podignut na litici iznad zelene rijeke Kupe, nerazdvojan je od svojih najpoznatijih gospodara, Zrinskih i Frankopana. Heritage Ozalj, a town with a heart The old town of Ozalj, built on a cliff above the green Kupa River, is inseparable from its most famous landlords, the Zrinski and Frankopan families.

72 Kontinentalna Hrvatska Čarobna družba Podravine Vjerovanja u nadnaravna bića, vile i vilovnjake, coprnice, more, zauzimaju važno mjesto u tradicijskoj kulturi, a trendovi modernog društva pokazuju kako su te teme i danas veoma popularne u cijelom svijetu.

92 Gastronomija Kulen osvaja Europu Kulen je najpoznatija i najsofisticiranija prezentacija prehrambenih potencijala Slavonije i Baranje. U širokoj paleti mesnih prerađevina kontinentalnog dijela Hrvatske pripada mu sasvim posebno mjesto.

Continental Croatia The magical CROWD of Podravina A belief in supernatural creatures, fairies and elves, witches and mares, has an important place in traditional culture, and the trends of modern society show that these topics are today still very popular the world over.

Gastronomy Kulen conquers Europe Kulen (spicy pork sausage) is the best known and most sophisticated example of the gastronomic potential of Slavonia and Baranja, and it holds a truly special position in terms of the extensive pallet of meat products from continental Croatia.

102 Meridijani Vancouver, grad za doživljaje Ako je istina da u životu nije toliko važno koliko puta uzdahnemo i izdahnemo, nego koliko nam puta od nečega zastane dah, onda će nam se ovo drugo neminovno dogoditi i u prekrasnom Vancouveru i njegovom atraktivnom prirodnom okružju.

124 Obljetnice Grafike iz kabineta Luja XIV. U zagrebačkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt posjetitelji mogu uživati u grafikama prvih grafičara Luja XIV. te u postavu izložbe koji nastoji dočarati duh vremena

Meridians Vancouver, a city for experiences If it is true that it does not matter how many times we inhale and exhale in our lifetimes, but the amount of times we are left breathless, we are guaranteed to experience the latter on a visit to the beautiful city of Vancouver and its attractive natural surroundings.

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak This is your personal copy

134 Moda Hrvatske torbe putnice Hrvatska se modna scena razvija već niz godina, no jedna niša posljednjih godina sve je jača - torbu i naprtnjaču kao stilski izazov vidi sve više dizajnera. Fashion Croatian travelling bags The Croatian fashion scene has been developing for several years, but one of its niches has especially developed over the years - bags and backpacks are viewed as a challenge by an increasingly large number of designers

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Anniversaries Graphics from the Cabinet of Louis XIV In the Zagreb Arts and Craft Museum visitors can enjoy the graphics of the King’s master graphic artists, as well as the exhibition itself which aims to evoke the spirit of the times.

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Antonio Severdija

RAZGOVOR MAKSIM MRVICA

CROATIA AIRLINES

Piπe/By Hrvoje Horvat

decker+kutic’

INTERVIEW MAKSIM MRVICA

CROATIA AIRLINES

Hrvatski pijanist Maksim Mrvica tijekom godina svoje svjetske karijere često putuje zrakoplovom. Prepoznajući kvalitetu usluge na letovima Croatia Airlinesa i ostalih članica Star Alliancea, postao je vjeran korisnik i tako stekao status Miles & More Senator, koji pripada kategoriji statusa Star Gold. Over the years, throughout his career, Maksim Mrvica, the Croatian pianist, has travelled extensively. Recognizing the quality of service aboard Croatia Airlines and other Star Alliance member flights, he has become a frequent flyer and decker+kutic’

achieved Miles & More Senator status, which belongs to the category of Star Gold status.

oznati hr vatski pijanist Maksim Mrvica odnedavno je zaštitno lice Croatia Airlinesa u Star Alliance Bespoke kampanji, pokrenutoj s namjerom da se putnike preko osobnog iskustva putovanja poznatih osoba, koje često putuju zrakoplovom diljem cijelog svijeta, upozori na prednost putovanja na letovima Croatia Airlinesa i ostalih aviokompanija članica Star Alliancea. Osobnim iskustvom poznata osoba, kao predstavnik pojedine zrakoplovne kompanije i zemlje iz koje potječe, svjedoči o prepoznavanju vrhunske razine usluge Star Alliancea, o prednostima povezanosti letova kroz mrežu letova koja obuhvaća sve dijelove svijeta i ponudu statusnih povlastica što se nude kao nagrada čestim putnicima, a usklađene su na jednako visokoj razini za svih 28 članica. Maksim Mrvica nedavno je postao i ambasador poznatoga japanskog proizvođača glazbenih instrumenata Yamaha, koji je za 8

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zaštitno lice odabrao umjetnika koji je klasiku približio fanovima diljem svijeta, izvodeći je na svoj crossover način. Za Inflight magazin Croatia Airlinesa, Maksim Mrvica govori o svojim iskustvima i planovima.  Jedna ste od najvećih međunarodnih zvijezda iz Hrvatske, često letite, koliko je za glazbenika poput vas koji stalno putuje bitan komfor i usluga koju dobivate u zrakoplovu? Kako ste doživjeli međunarodnu kampanju Star Alliancea u kojoj ste zaštitno lice Croatia Airlinesa? - Bilo mi je veoma drago kad sam saznao da sam izabran za kampanju Star Alliancea, s obzirom na to da najčešće i putujem zrakoplovima tog udruženja. Sve potrebne materijale, fotografije i promo video za kampanju snimali smo u Šibeniku, i to je bilo vrlo pozitivno iskustvo, jer tim ljudi koji su na tome radili bio je vrlo kreativan i profesionalan.  Kao korisnik statusa Star Gold, koji preleti više od sto tisuća milja godišnje,

osoba ste koja ima dovoljno iskustva s letovima. Kakva su Vaša iskustva sa zrakoplovnim kompanijama i posebice Croatia Airlinesom? - S Croatia Airlinesom gotovo uvijek letim po Europi, i to uvijek budu vrlo ugodni letovi, dobra hrana i ljubazno osoblje.  Koliko Vam je korištenje zrakoplova postalo dio svakodnevnog života? Danas je u zanimanjima poput Vašega praktički nemoguće raditi na svim kontinentima bez korištenja zrakoplova? - Zbog prirode moga posla veoma mnogo vremena provodim u zrakoplovima. Letovi do Azije, kamo najčešće putujem, traju i do 13 sati, tako da mi je vrlo bitan komfor zrakoplova. Najčešće te duge letove letim zrakoplovima Lufthanse. Na svu sreću, veoma volim letjeti. Imam već svoju dobro ustaljenu rutinu na dugim letovima. Isto tako, to je gotovo jedino vrijeme kad se mogu potpuno opustiti, bez mobitela ili interneta.  Uskoro krećete na koncertnu turneju po Aziji. Kako doživljavate kulturu i život Dalekog istoka na kojemu ste veoma popularni i ondje ste čest gost? Kakve su razlike spram odnosa prema glazbi i glazbenicima u zapadnom svijetu? - Moja se turneja sastoji od dvadeset koncerata u Kini, Južnoj Koreji i Hong Kongu. To je turneja s pratećim bendom i predstavit ću svoj novi album Croatian Rhapsody, koji je svojevrsni greatest hits album najvećih uspjeha. Odabrali smo osam najpopularnijih pjesama sa svih mojih prijašnjih albuma i u studiju napravili potpuno nove i drugačije produkcije tih pjesama. Moji su azijski poklonici vrlo vjerni, tako da imam fanove koje poznajem već dug niz godina i oni su uvijek na mojim koncertima ili me dočekuju u zračnim lukama.  Prošloga ljeta održali ste turneju u povodu zadnjeg albuma Mezzo e Mezzo, na kojoj ste pred publikom izvodili klasičnu glazbu. Nakon nekoliko turneja s crossover repertoarom, jeste li bili zadovoljni takvim nastupima i vraćanjem klasici? - Uvijek sam nastojao održavati podjednako obje karijere usporedno, ali neko sam se vrijeme više koncentrirao na crossover koncerte. Zato mi je sada osobito drago što imam dvije turneje godišnje, jedna crossover s bandom i jedna klasičnih recitala.  Govorili smo često o vremenu kada ste počeli međunarodnu karijeru 2001. godine. Takav veliki uspjeh vjerojatno nitko ne bi očekivao. Promicali ste klasičnu glazbu i postali pop-zvijezda služeći se strategijom koju nude suvremeni masovni mediji? - Moja je glazba fuzija klasične glazbe i

electro popa, tako da se i moji koncerti više doimaju kao pop rock-koncerti zbog velikih produkcija tih nastupa. Tim ljudi koji se bavio mojim albumima i promidžbom u mojoj izdavačkoj kući EMI tim je koji promiče pop-glazbenike, tako da je i marketing mene i moje glazbe bio napravljen i promican u medijima za pop-glazbu.  Na Vašem posljednjem albumu, osim tema iz područja žanrovskog crossovera, nalaze se i skladbe iz klasičnog repertoara. Što je za Vas najvažnije u oba ta žanra i kakve su razlike u pristupu kad svirate i nastupate? - Album Mezzo e Mezzo zamišljen je u dva dijela, klasični za koji sam snimio Slike s izložbe Musorgskoga, te drugi crossover dio. Načini izvedbe te dvije vrste glazbe poprilično su različiti, tako da mi je ispočetka bilo prilično teško prebacivati se iz jednoga žanra u drugi.  Pretpostavljam da se ne žalite, ali koliko zanimanje medija u zemljama gdje nastupate i česta histerija masovne publike, od zračnih luka do hotela, može biti teret koji se mora nositi? - Zanimanje medija i javnosti za mene ondje sastavni je dio mog posla na koji sam bio upozoren i na koji sam se već naviknuo s mojim poklonicima. Kad odlazim na turneje u zemlje gdje imam koncerte, znam da će biti vrlo dinamično i da me obožavatelji ondje entuzijastički dočekuju već u zračnim lukama, pa ispred koncertnih dvorana i drugdje.  Suvremeni masovni mediji i internet pomažu glazbeniku da stekne veliku popularnost, ali nakon toga opet se nađete sami s klavirom i publikom u koncertnim dvoranama? - Kad idem na crossover turneje, sa mnom ide moj britanski band i tim od 15-ak ljudi, tako da takve turneje, koliko god da su veoma naporne, istodobno su i vrlo zabavne. Kad imam klasične koncerte, onda je to nešto drugačije, jer putujemo samo ja i moj tour menadžer. Na klasičnim turnejama inače i mnogo više vježbam klavir.  Kakvi su Vaši daljnji planovi što se tiče koncertnih nastupa i albuma nakon turneje po Aziji? - Nakon ove velike azijske turneje Božić ću, kao i uvijek, proslaviti s obitelji u Šibeniku. Poslije Nove godine dočekuje me još mnogo koncerata, od kojih me osobito raduje moj koncert s pratećim sastavom u zagrebačkoj dvorani Vatroslava Lisinskoga 16. veljače. A, naravno, imam i prilično obaveza u vezi s predstavljanjem moga novog albuma Croatian Rhapsody. 

he renowned Croatian pianist, Maksim Mrvica, has recently become Croatia Airlines’ brand ambassador for the Star Alliance Bespoke campaign, whose purpose is to emphasize the advantages of flying with Croatia Airlines and other Star Alliance member aircraft through the personal flying experiences of celebrities who frequently fly across the globe. As representatives of airlines from their respective countries, celebrities promote the top-class quality of the Star Alliance service, advantages of the numerous flight connections throughout the world, and status privileges offered as awards to frequent flyers, harmonized at an equallyhigh level for all 28 members. Maksim Mrvica has also recently become an ambassador for the renowned Japanese music instrument manufacturer - Yamaha, which chose to be represented by an artist who popularized classical music among fans across the world, performing it in his crossover way. Exclusively for the Croatia Airlines inflight magazine, Maksim Mrvica discusses his experiences and plans.  You are one of the greatest international stars originating from Croatia; you fly often; how important is comfort and service to a musician such as yourself aboard an aircraft? What is your impression of Star Alliance’s international campaign, in which you are Croatia Airlines’ brand ambassador? - I was very pleased to find out I’d been chosen for the Star Alliance campaign, given that I mostly fly aboard aircraft belonging to that very association. We shot all the necessary photographs and the promo video for the campaign in Šibenik, which was a very positive experience because the team of people who worked on the project and its materials were very creative and professional.  As a Star Gold user who flies more than a hundred thousand miles a year, you are a person who has plenty of experience as an airline passenger; what are your experiences with various airlines, especially Croatia Airlines? - Within Europe, I almost always fly with Croatia Airlines, and the flights are always very satisfying with good food and a pleasant staff.  How much of your everyday life has flying taken up? Nowadays, in professions like yours, it is practically impossible to work on all continents without flying? - Due to the nature of my work, I spend a lot of time aboard aircraft. Flights to Asia, where I travel to most frequently, last up to 13 hours, so I find comfort to be of the utmost importance on-board. I mostly fly aboard Lufthansa CROATIA AIRLINES

decker+kutic’

aircraft on longer-hauls. Fortunately, I really enjoy flying. I already have my routine down on the longer flights. It is also pretty much the only time I get to relax completely, without a mobile phone or the internet to distract me.  You will soon embark on your concert tour across Asia; what is your impression of the culture and life of people in the Far East where you, yourself, have been a very popular and frequent guest? What are the differences with respect to their approach to music and how are they different from musicians in the western world? - My tour consists of twenty concerts in China, South Korea and Hong Kong. It’s a tour I’m embarking on with my band in order to promote my latest album - Croatian Rhapsody, which is a greatest hits album of sorts. We chose eight of the most popular songs from my previous albums, and made completely new and different studio recordings of these songs. My Asian fans are very loyal, so I 10

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recognize a lot of them at my concerts or at the airport.  Last summer, you held a tour promoting the Mezzo e Mezzo album, in which you performed classical music for the audience. After several tours with a crossover repertoire, was it a pleasure to do such a performance and “return to the classical?” - I’ve always tried to maintain parallel careers, but for the last little while, I’ve been concentrating more on doing crossover concerts. That’s why I’m now especially glad to do two tours a year - one crossover tour with a band, and one tour featuring classical recitals.  We have talked a lot about when you started your international career in 2001. No one would have predicted such great success back then. You promoted classical music and became a pop star by employing a strategy available to you in contemporary mass media? - My music is a fusion between classical

music and electro-pop, so my concerts seem more like pop-rock concerts due to the major production element of the performances. The team of people who have worked on my albums and promotion at my record label EMI is a team that promotes pop musicians, so the marketing for me and my music was done and promoted in pop music media.  Your last album features music of the crossover genre, but also classical compositions. What is the most important thing of both genres, and what are the differences in your approach to them when you perform? - The Mezzo e Mezzo album has two parts - the classical part, for which I recorded Mussorgsky’s Pictures at an Exhibition, and the crossover part. There are two very different ways of performing this kind of music, so at first, I had a difficult time switching between genres.  I suppose you don’t mind, but how much of a burden is the media interest in the countries where you perform - the hysteria of mass crowds from airports to hotels? - The media interest of me is part of my job, and it’s something I was pre-warned about. I’m already used to the attention with my fans. When I go on tours in countries where I hold concerts, I know it will be very dynamic and that fans will be enthusiastically waiting for me at the airport, in front of concert halls, and elsewhere.  Contemporary mass media and the internet help a musician gain great popularity, but in the end, you find yourself alone at the piano in a concert hall in front of an audience… - When I go on crossover tours, I’m backed by my British band and a team of around 15 people, so as tiring as these tours can get, they are also a lot of fun at the same time. When I hold classical concerts, it’s a different story because only my tour manager and I are on the road. During these classical tours, I spend more time practising the piano.  What are your future plans after the Asian tour in terms of concerts and albums? - After the big Asian tour, I plan to spend Christmas with my family in Šibenik as always. In the New Year, I have a lot more concerts to do, and I’m especially looking forward to the performance with my band at the Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall in Zagreb, taking place on February 16th. Of course, I also have plenty of obligations regarding the promotion of my latest album, Croatian Rhapsody. www.maksim.co.uk 

THE WHOLE WORLD IS AT MY FINGERTIPS, THANKS TO CROATIA AIRLINES AND STAR ALLIANCE. THE WAY I LIKE TO TRAVEL.

Maksim Mrvica, World renowned pianist, Miles & More Senator and Star Alliance Gold Status

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The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËnu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijal- nog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvat skoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. Nov-Ëana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. pro sinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine. Hrvatska je od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. According to the 2011 census, Croatia’s population was 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The official language is Croatian, and the of ficial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cul tural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, 12

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Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, na tural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spome nicima iz svih razdoblja, zbog burnih povije snih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja razliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karak teriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËk i spome nici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sak ralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeurops kog a kulturnog krug a i istiË e se mnogim prapovijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvor cima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spo menicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Diok lecijanova palaËa, pregra ena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazili ka u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park Plit viËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent even ts of history and the interlacing of influences of dif ferent cultures. Its coast is characterized by the influe nces of Mediterranean culture, num erou s anc ie nt rem ai ns, mon um ents of the Rom an era and early Midd le Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of dis tinc tive Med iterr an ea n urb an entitie s that have been preser ved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, for tres ses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian citie s and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocleti an, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit-odrediπte na Sre dozemlju. Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2014. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su 13,128.416 turista, od kojih je stranih 10,948.366. Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima 66,483.948 noÊenja. Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti… Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog aviopri jevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluautoc esta Hrvats ka je bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajektom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su po srijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko... Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has bee n a hit destination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and in ternational experts in tourism. According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded about 13.13 million tourists in commercial accommodation facilities in 2014, of whom around 10.95 million were foreign tourists. Tourists realized 66,483,948 overnight stays. Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards. There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing

excursions that include natural and cultural treasures... Novac i naËin plaÊanja Kun a je na z iv novË an e jed in ic e Rep ub like Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp). NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima − 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac − 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim karticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima.

Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kun a (kn). In circ ul at io n are bank notes in Kun a and coins in Kun a and Lip a (lp) ∑ one hund red th of a Kun a. The bank notes are issue d in the foll ow ing den om in at io ns: 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Kun a, while the den om in atio n structure of the coi ns is 1, 2 and 5 Kun a and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Lip a (100 Lip a = 1 Kun a). Paym ents can be ma de by cred it card (Din ers, Vis a, Americ an Exp res s, Euroc ard and Masterc ard), as well as euro-check s. Cas h can be with drawn from ATM s.

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalne / regular sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer

motorway, fast roads toll station tunnel, bridge other main roads national parks nature parks international border crossing petrol stations (0-24) airports ferry routes UNESCO World Heritage CROATIA AIRLINES

Portret mlade Ĺžene (princeza Plautilla?), Salona, poÄ?etak 3. st. Portrait of a young woman (Princess Plautilla), Salona, beginning of the 3rd century

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UMJETNOST ART

ijekom 1870-ih godina Zrinjski trg, prvotno namijenjen stoËnom sajmu i gradskoj trænici, ureenjem perivoja poËinje poprimati izgled reprezentativnoga javnog prostora. Osim zgrade Arheoloπkog muzeja, obitelj Vranyczany gradila je joπ nekoliko monumentalnih palaËa na Zrinskom trgu, te znaËajno utjecala na to da se Zagreb tijekom 19. stoljeÊa prometnuo u modernu europsku metropolu. PalaËu na broju 19 sagradio je barun Dragan Vranyczany-DobrinoviÊ kao prvu luksuznu najamnu kuÊu u Zagrebu, o kojoj je veÊ tijekom gradnje 1878. - 1879. godine brujao cijeli grad. Tako je novinar Narodnih novina, zaintrigiran tajnama πto su se skrivale iza luksuznog proËelja, ne mareÊi na natpis Zabranjen ulaz, na juriπ uπao u zgradu i 6. lipnja 1879. napisao: …da mi godi oku gledati tako krasne detalje od poda do vrha krova, izvedene luxuriozno neπtedeÊ novaca, ali onomu, koji Êe da tu stanuje, trebat Êe i debela kesa. Svi stanovi imali su vodovod, telegrafske aparate, teretno dizalo i kupaonicu s tuπem, odnosno sve za ËistoÊu i udobnost naobraæene obitelji. Sam, pak, Dragan Vranyczany-DobrinoviÊ, inaËe iz Karlovca, za svoje je potrebe uredio trosobni stan u dijelu prizemlja. Prvobitni projekt gradnje palaËe naruËio je barun od beËkoga carskog arhitekta Otte von Hoffera, kada je moæda joπ razmiπljao da se trajno nastani u Zagrebu. No, kako je naposljetku odluËio ostati u Karlovcu, najvjerojatnije mu ipak nije bio potreban arhitekt

Arheoloπki muzej u Zagrebu smjeπten je u jednoj od najljepπih palaËa u najljepπemu

ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ, PALAČA NA NAJLJEPŠEM TRGU

zagrebaËkom perivoju, na Trgu Nikole ©ubiÊa Zrinskog. Danas je palaËa zadræala svoj luksuzni izgled zaslugom ponajviπe Hafnerove adaptacije.

ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, A PALACE AT THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SQUARE

The Archaeological Museum in Zagreb is located in one of the most beautiful palaces along Zagreb’s most beautiful park, Nikola Šubić Zrinski’s Square (alternatively called Zrinjski Square or Zrinjevac). Even today the palace still maintains its luxurious look, mostly owing to Hafner’s

Piπe/By Ana Solter

remodeling.

Fotografije/Photos Damir Fabijanić CROATIA AIRLINES

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carskog atelijera pa je za gradnju angaæirao zagrebaËkog graditelja Ferdu Kondrata, koji je pak ostao dosljedan Hofferovim rjeπenjima, osobito što se tiče pročelja, zadræavπi ideju o Ëetiri stupa uz glavni ulaz. Neorenesansno glavno proËelje rijeπeno je monumentalno s detaljima inspiriranima talijanskom arhitekturom 16. stoljeÊa i u bogatoj obradi, osobito za Zagreb druge polovice 19. stoljeÊa. Osim sruπenih kipova na korniπu u velikom potresu 1880. godine, lice palaËe tijekom desetljeÊa ostalo je nepromijenjeno. U novosagraenoj palaËi Dragan Vranyczany ustupio je Isidoru Krπnjavome jedanaest soba na prvom katu za priredbu prve umjetniËke izloæbe tek osnovanoga Druπtva umjetnosti. Zidovi su se morali Ëuvati, pa je to moæda i prva izloæba naËinjena bez i jedinog Ëavla. Tako kao da je sudbonosno predodredio daljnju buduÊnost PalaËe. Ali iza prepoznatljivoga æutog proËelja, koje je doduπe izvorno bilo boje kave, krije se tek manji dio sadræaja koji mu je dao projektant. PalaËu na Zrinjevcu 19, koja se prodavala kao najskuplja nekretnina u Zagrebu 1916. godine, od barunovih nasljednika kupio je Radivoj Hafner, bogati liferant austrougarske vojske konjima i mesom. Danaπnji raskoπni izgled palaËe dugujemo Hafneru, koji prizemlje i stubiπte oblaæe mramorom, a u srediπnji prostor stubiπta postavlja panoramsko dizalo zaπtiÊeno æeljeznom kovanom i pozlaÊenom ogradom, ukraπenom monogramom RH i konjima. Radivoj Hafner bio je strastveni uzgajivaË konja. Smatra se utemeljiteljem uzgoja ameriËkog kasaËa na ovim prostorima i jedan je od utemeljitelja BeËkoga kasaËkog druπtva. Njegovi konji Pardon (1918. - vozaË Jimmy Benyon) i Alland (1922. - vozaË Charly Mills) osvajaËi su austrijskoga kasaËkog derbija. U dvoriπtu palaËe prema Gajevoj ulici Hafner vrlo raskoπno obnavlja stare Vranyczanyjeve staje za svoje odabrane trkaÊe konje (ameriËke kasaËe) kojima je u boksove, po priËama, objesio pozlaÊena zrcala, a prema Gajevoj ulici gradi reprezentativnu ogradu, ponovno sa svojim inicijalima. Nakon Prvoga svjetskog rata zgrada je postala vlasniπtvo Francusko-srpske banke, koja se dijelom palaËe koristi za svoje poslovnice, a dio iznajmljuje. Izmeu dva rata izmijenili su se mnogi stanari: AmeriËki konzulat, Francuski konzulat, Automobilski klub Zagreb, Oficirski klub, Poljoprivreda d.d., trgovina tehniËkih potrepπtina S. Radan … Prije poËetka Drugoga svjetskog rata ©tedionica Banovine Hrvatske, poslije πtedionica NDH, iselit Êe sve stanare i sruπiti boËna dvoriπna krila i raskoπne staje, s namjerom da u dvoriπtu prema Gajevoj izvede nikada realizirani projekt gradnje nove zgrade za trezore. CROATIA AIRLINES

Sarkofag i mumija Kareset, Ptolomejsko razdoblje, 332.-30. pr. Kr. Coffin and mummy of Kareset, Ptolemaic period 332-30 B.C.

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Postav grčkih vaza Display of Greek vases

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Posuda u obliku golubice, Vučedol, 3. tisućljeće pr. Kr. Bird-shaped vessel, 3rd millennium B.C.

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Predmeti izrađeni od jantara, 10. - 1. st. pr. Kr.

Arheoloπki muzej preselio se u palaËu Vranyczany - Hafner 1945. godine iz nedalekog susjedstva na Zrinjevcu 11, gdje se postav muzeja nalazio 65 godina u skuËenim prostorijama prizemlja Akademijine palaËe.

Artefacts made of amber, 10 th - 1st century B.C.

The Archaeological Museum was relocated to the Vranyczany-Hafner palace in 1945 from the building next door, Zrinjevac 11, where the museum’s holdings were kept for 65 years in a crammed ground floor space of the Academy’s building.

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Undergraduate Programs - 240 ECTS Economics and Management Business Law and Economics Business Mathematics and Economics Graduate Programs - 60 ECTS Graduate MBA Program Executive MBA Executive MBA Human Resource Management

Student exchange at more than 120 universities around the world. Career Center supports internships and employments.

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www.zsem.hr.

Tijekom mraËnog razdoblja od 1941. do 1945. godine, ni PalaËu na Zrinskom trgu 19 nije zaobiπao rat. Nakon njemaËke invazije i uspostave NDH, nove su vlasti objekt vrlo brzo prepustile njemaËkoj vojsci. U mnoπtvu poloviËnih i katkada kontradiktornih informacija, nije lako razluËiti tko je sve i u kojem svojstvu boravio u zgradi. Najpoznatiji stanar Zrinjevca 19 u tom razdoblju bio je njemaËki general Edmund Glaise von Horstenau, Austrijanac, profesionalni vojnik, povjesniËar i politiËar nadasve zanimljive biografije. U početku svibnja 1945. godine Wehrmacht na brzinu napuπta Zagreb. U zgradi ostaje neπto namjeπtaja, brojni πljemovi (naeni ukopani u podove dvoriπnih zgrada mnogo godina poslije) i dvanaest ËeliËnih trezora. Otvorili su ih profesionalni provalnici koji su baπ za tu priliku bili dovedeni iz Lepoglave. Trezori su bili prazni. Arheoloπki muzej preselio se u palaËu Vranyczany - Hafner 1945. godine iz nedalekog susjedstva na Zrinjevcu 11, gdje se postav muzeja nalazio 65 godina u skuËenim prostorijama prizemlja Akademijine palaËe. U istu zgradu zajedno s Arheoloπkim muzejom sele Povijesni muzej i Muzej narodnooslobodilaËke borbe, te SveuËiliπni zavod za arheologiju i povijest umjetnosti. Kada je poËelo seljenje, ustanovilo se da je cijela zgrada puna gamadi, uπiju i stjenica, πto je bilo razumljivo kada se uzme u obzir da je cijelu zgradu u poËetku 1941. godine okupirala vojska. Nakon nekoliko godina skinuta su sva vrata na drugom katu, a moralo se odstraniti i izvornu hrastovu oplatu, mramorne kamine te lustere, i preostalo pokuÊstvo, jer posjetitelji muzeja viπe su gledali Vranyczanyjev interijer nego izloπke. Danas je palaËa zadræala svoj luksuzni izgled zaslugom ponajviπe Hafnerove adaptacije, a kao dio originalne opreme iz vremena Vranyczanyjevog vlasniπtva danas su nam saËuvane historicistiËke πtukature stropova prvog kata. 

uring the 1870s, when the park was being cultivated at this venue, Zrinjski Square, originally intended to house the city’s cattle market and farmers’ market, had begun to take the shape of a representative public space. Besides the building of the Archaeological Museum, the Vranyczany family erected several other monumental palaces at Zrinski Square, making a significant contribution to Zagreb’s transformation into a modern European metropolis in the 19 th century. The palace at number 19 was built by Baron Dragan Vranyczany-Dobrinović as the first luxury rental house in Zagreb, which was the talk of the town already at the time of its construction in the period from 1878 to 1879. Thus, a journalist working for Narodne

Novine (The People’s Newspaper), intrigued by secrets concealed behind the luxurious façade, ignored the No entry sign, sneaked into the building on 6 June 1879, and later wrote: …it pleases me to see such beautiful detail from floor to ceiling, made luxuriously and sparing no cost, but anyone wishing to reside here would need a fat wallet. All the apartments had plumbing, telegraphs, freight elevators and a bathroom with a shower, that is, everything necessary for the hygiene and comfort of a well-educated family. Karlovacborn Dragan Vranyczany-Dobrinović himself had built a three-room apartment for his own needs as part of the ground floor. The original design of the palace was commissioned by the Baron from the Viennese imperial architect Otto von Hoffer at the time when the Baron was still considering the possibility of taking up permanent residence in Zagreb. However, since he ultimately decided to stay in Karlovac, he most likely did not need the imperial atelier architect and he hired the Zagreb-based engineer Ferdo Kondrat, who nevertheless stayed true to Hoffer’s solution, particularly with respect to the façade, adopting his idea to adorn the main entrance with four pillars. The Neo-Renaissance main façade boasts a monumental design, with details inspired by 16th century Italian architecture and rich decorations, which was an exception for Zagreb in the second half of the 19th century. Aside from the cornice sculptures demolished in the great earthquake of 1880, the palace’s

Nadgrobna stela Septimije Lucile i preminulih sinova, Lobor kraj Zlatara, prva polovina 3. st. Grave stela of Septimia Lucilla and her deceased sons, Lobor near Zlatar, first half of the 3rd century

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front remained unchanged throughout the decades. In the newly built palace, Dragan Vranyczany allowed Isidor Kršnjavi to use eleven rooms on the first floor to host the first exhibition of the newly established Art Society. The walls had to be treated with care, so this was perhaps the first exhibition where no nails were used. This was almost prophetic considering the palace’s future. However, the recognizable yellow façade - originally coffee-colored - conceals just a small part of the structures that the designer had given it. The palace at Zrinjevac 19, which was put up for sale in 1916 as the most expensive real estate in Zagreb, was purchased from the Baron’s heirs by Radivoj Hafner, a rich supplier of horses and meat to the Austro-Hungarian army. We owe today’s lavish appearance of the palace to Hafner, who installed marble slabs on the ground floor and stairway, and who built a panoramic elevator in the central part of the stairway, which he decorated with his monogram, RH, and horses, and which is protected by a gilded wrought iron fence. Radivoj Hafner was a passionate horse breeder. He is considered the founder of Standardbred breeding in the region and was one of the founders of the Viennese Trotter Society. His horses, Pardon (1918 - jockey Jimmy Benyon) and Alland (1922 - jockey Charly Mills) won the Austrian trotting derby. In the palace’s courtyard facing Gajeva Street, Hafner restored the lavish look of Vranyczany’s old stables for his select racing horses (Standardbred) whose box stalls were, according to rumors, adorned with gilded mirrors. He also built an impressive fence facing Gajeva Street, again adorned with his initials. After World War I, the building became the property of the French-Serbian Bank, which used a part of the palace to house its offices, and it leased out the remaining part of the building. Between the two world wars there were many tenants: the American Consulate, the French Consulate, the Zagreb Automobile Club, the Officers’ Club, Poljoprivreda d.d., S. Radan’s technical supplies store… Before the start of World War II, the Banate of Croatia Savings Bank, later the Bank of the Independent State of Croatia, evicted all the tenants and demolished the side courtyard wings of the building and the luxurious stables with the intention of erecting new safe deposit buildings in the courtyard facing Gajeva Street, but the project was never realized. During the dark period between 1941 and 1945, the war did not spare the palace at Zrinski Square 19. After the German invasion and the establishment of the Independent State of Croatia, the new regime immediately ceded 26

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the facility to the German army. It is not easy to sift through the limited and contradictory information and make out who the residents of the building were and in what roles. The most famous tenant at Zrinjevac 19 in that period was the German general Edmund Glaise von Horstenau, an Austrian-born professional soldier, historian and politician with an interesting biography. In early May 1945, the Wehrmacht swiftly fled Zagreb. Some furniture, many helmets (found buried in the floors of the courtyard buildings many years later) and twelve steel safe deposit boxes were left in the building. The latter were opened by professional burglars who were brought in from the prison in Lepoglava and entrusted with the task of opening them. The safe deposit boxes were found to be empty. The Archaeological Museum was relocated to the Vranyczany-Hafner palace in 1945 from the building next door, Zrinjevac 11, where the museum’s holdings were kept for 65 years in a crammed ground floor space of the Academy’s building. The Historical Museum and the Museum of the People’s Liberation War, as well as the University Institute of Archaeology and History, moved into the building along with the Archaeological Museum. As these institutions began to settle in, it became clear that the entire building was infested with pests, lice and bedbugs, which was no surprise considering the entire building was occupied by the army since the beginning of 1941. Several years later, all the doors on the 2nd floor were removed, and the original oak panels, marble fireplaces and chandeliers, as well as the remaining furniture, had to be removed too, since visitors were more interested in Vranyczany’s interior design than in the exhibits. Today the palace has regained its luxurious look, mostly owing to Hafner’s remodeling, and the Historicist ceiling stuccos on the first floor have been preserved as part of the original decorations from Vranyczany’s era. 

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PRIRODNE LJEPOTE NATURAL BEAUTIES

BIOKOVO

KRALJICA DALMATINSKIH PLANINA 28

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Piπe/By Goran Stojanović

Fotografije/Photos Damir Fabijanić

THE QUEEN OF THE DALMATIAN MOUNTAINS CROATIA AIRLINES

Planinski masivi oduvijek su iskazivali uporišta svoje stalnosti. Biokovo je kraljica dalmatinskih planina, načinjena od visinske osobnosti, koja orkanskom snagom razdjeljuje Jadran od Zagore, more od kopna, pučinske horizonte od kontinentalnog zaleđa. Ono je i najviša planina na Sredozemlju, ujedno i najbliža njegovoj morskoj obali s kojom se strastveno spaja, kao kap prepune čaše, rasapno i nezabrinuto. 30

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Da istrgneš orlu, što ga prelijeće, sva pera, pa da ih istrošiš, pišući brzinom njegova olujna leta, i da gledaš Biokovo oštrinom njegovih žeravih zjenica, ne bi ni zamijetio sve zadahe i preljeve, kamo bi ih tepavim riječima ljudskog jezika opisao… (Ante Trsić-Pavičić, Poleti oko Biokova, 1902.)

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Mountain ranges have always been strongholds of their permanence. Biokovo is the queen of the Dalmatian mountains. It consists of high altitude characteristics which with hurricane force separate the Adriatic from the Zagora hinterland, the sea from the land, and the coastal horizons from the continental interior. It is the highest mountain in the Mediterranean and the closest to the coast, which it is passionately merged with, like a drop in a full glass, scattered and unconcerned. 32

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If you were to pluck all the feathers from an eagle flying over it, And if you were to use them all to write at the speed of its stormy flight, And if you were to watch Biokovo with the sharpness of its ember pupils, You would hardly notice all of its smells and tints, Let alone describe them with the feeble words of the human language... (Ante Tresić-Pavičić; Flights around Biokovo, 1902)

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ako opisati najduži i najviši dalmatinski planinski masiv nastao u mezozoiku, prije dvjesto dvadeset milijuna godina? Kako dohvatiti njegova sjećanja, skrivene emocije, ustrajnu nepokretnost, vječne vidike? U čemu je zagonetka postanka takva stjenovita i gorostasna diva? Široka ploča na kojoj se temelji Afrika, i ona još veća, na koju se oslanjaju Azija i Europa, taru se u dubinama zemlje te pomiču i lome njezinu koru. Tlo ispod njih tad popuca, zemlja zadrhti, lava visinski zapleše, magma se izlije i skruti. Tako su nastale mnoge planine, stvorili se orkanski visovi, podigli se stjenoviti nebesnici u kojima, nakon podzemnoga i nadzemnoga crescenda, život utone u tišinu stvorenog. Čovjeku tada ostaje prostor prepoznavanja svemira u zrnu pijeska, putopis vlastita čuđenja nad postojanjem, te, na kraju, ishodeći iz spomenutoga, osviještenost vlastitog odnosa prema sebi samome. Biokovo se u svom drevnom nastanku potkraj gornje krede, kada počinje oblikovanje njegova masiva, u blizini pučinskih obzora, razvio kao svojevrsni unikat Dinarida, dosegnuvši 1762 metra nad morem, s vrhom nazvanim Sv. Jure, na kojem je sagrađena i istoimena crkva, danas i najviša u Hrvatskoj. Svojim položajem taj planinski masiv oduvijek je bio stopljen s dva krajolika; prvim, morskim i blagim, te drugim, kontinentalno oštrim. Ta gorostasna divota, duga trideset šest, promjera najviše i do devet i pol kilometara, izrasla je kao nepremostiva crta razdjelnica, strogi graničar i gospodar vremenskih prilika, odlučno ih krojeći po vlastitoj volji. S nje je, u bistre dane, moguće ostvariti vidike na urbanost Makarske i njezine rivijere u podnožju; preletjeti Jadransko more dohvativši obrise talijanskog kopna ili ugledati potpis orlova leta na plavetnilu nebeskog obzora. Etimologija biokovskog imena pretpostavlja da potječe od korijena bijel, jer stoljećima su kontinentalni starosjedioci, i to gotovo devet mjeseci godišnje, gledali u najviši vrh svoje planine prekrivene snijegom. Biokovo je planinski lanac s drugim najvećim vrhom u Hrvatskoj i uprizoruje se u tri cjeline: sjeverozapadni dio tvore vrhovi Šćirovac (1619

m), Sveti Ilija (1642 m), Veliki Šibenik (1467 m), Sveti Jure (1762 m), Vošac (1421 m) i Kimet (1556 m). Krajobrazno, to područje kraška je golet sa šumovitim dijelovima. Gotovo svi biokovski vrhovi teško su dostupni, zahtjevni i vremenski dugotrajni. Ni jedan uspon na njih ne smije se podcijeniti. Jugoistočni dio naziva se još i Rilić, a tvore ga vrhovi Sutvid (1155 m), Sokolić (788 m) te Sveti Ilija (773 m). Osnovno obilježje tog predjela građene su staze gotovo do svakoga od njih, po kojima su u prošlosti išli trgovački putovi prema zaleđu, a gotovo u cijelosti prolaze kraškom goleti. Treća je cjelina Zabiokovlje, koje u osnovi tvori planina Matokit s najvišim vrhom Sveti Rok (1062 m). Pri usponu na južnoj strani moguće je proći kroz mnogo starih sela, koja se nalaze u podnožju Biokova kao što su Gornja Brela, Topići, Bast, Veliko Brdo, Makar, Kotišina, Gornje Tučepi, Gornja Podgora i Gornje Igrane, a na njegovoj sjevernoj strani nalaze Kozica, Rasćane, Župa, Biokovsko Selo, Rastovac, Zagvozd i Zadvarje. U knjizi Sedam vrhova poznati hrvatski alpinist Stipe Božić piše o Biokovu kao planini koja ga je od djetinjstva privlačila svojom osobitošću: Planina Biokovo ima ćudi nalik ljudskima. Jednom je umiljata djevica pred čijom ljepotom nijemo klečite, a drugi put vam prijeti srditom i pogibeljnom opakošću. Tome ne moraju uvijek biti uzrok godišnja doba, jer zimi se planina može odjenuti nevinim bijelim plaštom od snijega, zadobivajući svemirsku ljepotu, o kojoj su jedino možda pjesnici pozvani pisati. Ali ta rajska ljepota učas može biti pretvorena u paklene orgije vjetrova, u kojima živo biće bez zaklona ne može preživjeti. Za vrijeme ljetne žege na plažama Makarskog primorja neupućenome ni na pamet ne pada da se u tom istom trenu na biokovskim visovima, samo dva sata hoda od podnožja, može zametnuti prava alpska oluja. Različito se doživljavaju biokovski krajobrazi obalnog područja srednje i južne Dalmacije te krajobraz Dalmatinske zagore. Za starosjedioce, taj planinski gorostas oduvijek je bio njihovo ognjište, mitsko biće, izvorna djedovina; za obalne prolaznike tek je splet surovih, golih i zastrašujućih stijena; za planinare i alpiniste Biokovo je izazov srčanosti,

snage i poštovanja; za speleologe, bogatstvo podzemlja koje oduzima dah novih otkrića; za botaničare, ovdje se nalazi vrt velike ljepote s cvjetnom pozornicom raznolikosti; za turiste namjernike tu je vidljiva jedinstvena ljepota skrivena u tajni stvaranja. Biokovo obuhvaća krajobraze obalnog područja srednje i južne Dalmacije te Dalmatinske zagore. Park prirode Biokovo, na prostoru od gotovo 20.000 hektara, u sklopu kojega se nalazi i Biokovski botanički vrt Kotišina, već desetljećima održava navedene krajolike, čuva njihova staništa i biološku raznolikost, i na njima šume, krš, podzemlje te travnjake unutar kojih su mnoga jedinstvena, endemska podzemna i vodena staništa, krški vodotoci, lokve i bunari, livade i pašnjaci. Biokovo je za svoje starosjedioce i sveta planina, hraniteljica koja je u udolinama, dolcima i škrapama davala svoju plodnost za uzgoj krumpira i žitarica, luka i mahunarka. Na Biokovu se često boravilo radi poljoprivrede, najviše radi stočarstva. Kako bi se zaštitili, gradile su se planinske kolibe, tzv. stanovi. Najviše stanova imali su stočari iz Primorja, osobito iz Podgore i Tučepa, dok su na sjevernoj strani Biokova samo tri sela imala stanove - Župa, Krstatice i Zagvozd. Najveće i najzanimljivije sekundarno stočarsko naselje je Podglogovik, s dobro očuvanom prostornom organizacijom. To je danas napušteno naselje unutar kojega se nalaze stambeno-gospodarski sklopovi, lokve, bunari, gustirne, guvna i plodni dolci. U prošlosti, dok na ovom području još nisu korišteni hladnjaci, veliko značenje za lokalno stanovništvo imale su brojne jame ledenice u centralnom dijelu Biokova, iz kojih su biokovski ledari vadili led. Ledene blokove obložene bukovim lišćem i umotane u tkaninu od kostreti (kozja dlaka) na magarcima su transportirali u mjesta podbiokovlja i zabiokovlja, gdje su biokovski led upotrebljavali u ugostiteljstvu, ističe se u opisu Parka prirode o kulturnoj baštini Biokova. Ona je ispunjena i kulturnim obiljem s više od 87 crkvica i kapelica. Na ovom prostoru prisutnost čovjeka ima kontinuitet još od prapovijesti kada su naseljeni posebice njegovi rubni dijelovi, i to mnogo prije pojava pisane riječi. Svjedoci su tome

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brojni arheološki lokaliteti, koje potvrđuju materijalni ostaci. U ranom rimskom razdoblju, još od vremena korištenja pisma, naselja biokovskog područja dostigla su civilizacijski i kulturni stupanj podizanja sakralnih objekata. Sve te crkvice na vrhovima Biokova iskazuju združenost vjere i prirode. Ljepota i raznolikost biljnog i životinjskog svijeta od davnina privlači pažnju planinara, raznih posjetilaca, posebice prirodoslovaca. Flora Biokova obuhvaća više od 1400 vrsta, no to nisu konačne brojke, jer stalno se otkrivaju nove vrste, među kojima i niz biokovskih endema. Zbog botaničkih vrijednosti neki dijelovi parka imaju posebnu zaštitu kroz rezervat šumskih vegetacija, botanički rezervat, geomorfološki rezervat i botanički vrt. Sasvim je čudesno na primorskoj planini, kao što je Biokovo, vidjeti i osjetiti veliki broj mediteranskog flornog obilja kao što su hrast crnika, brnistra, alepski bor, gorski javor, grmolika šparoga, rogač. I njegov botanički vrt Kotišina, zamišljen kao vrt samoniklog biokovskog bilja s autohtonom florom i vegetacijom, smješten je prema ideji dr. fra Jure Radića, poznatog teologa i prirodoslovca. On je predanim djelovanjem potaknuo osnivanje toga jedinstvenog prirodnog rezervata biokovskog i mediteranskog bilja, na jugozapadnim obroncima Biokova, iznad istoimenog sela na nadmorskoj visini od 350 do 500 m. Biokovo je, uz Velebit, najvažnije endemsko čvorište za floru; ovdje se dotiče izvornost slika i mirisa što osvajaju svakog dobronamjernika koji poštuje vrijednosti prirode i bogatstvo njezinih riznica. Iznad svega, Biokovu treba prići srcem, odgovorno i otvoreno. Na taj način najlakše je doživjeti čudesnost prostora koji živi pod zvijezdama vlastitih krajolika. Tada će i biokovski proplanci i staze, mjesta i vidici prihvatiti naše društvo, podržati prijateljstvo, otvoriti se za iskrenost i razumijevanje. Stiglo je vrijeme kad ne treba više tumačiti, uslužno i usrdno izvještavati; čuditi se svijetu i suncu. Vrijeme je za nedokazivanje mjerničke strukture svega što nas okružuje. Potrebna je dubina spoznaje, na koju nas priroda nevino upućuje, pozivajući nas da joj se prepustimo kao biseri u moru,

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za koje, da bismo ih dosegnuli, treba zaroniti. Na Biokovu je utvrđena i riznica od više nego 400 speleoloških objekata, a procjenjuje se da je njihov ukupan broj veći od 1000. To je školjka koja svoje speleološko biserje otkriva postupno, a svaki pojedini biser zadivljuje svojom veličinom, sjajem, bojom, ljepotom i jednostavnošću, kaže crtica o speleološkom potencijalu Biokova u monografiji Parka prirode. Ovaj prostor obiluje s mnogo jama, u više od 90 posto, tek ostatak su špilje. Mokre noge, Amfora, Stara škola, Vilimova jama, Jama za kamenitim vratima, najdublje su jame koje dosežu dubinu i do 840 m. Pojas zagorskog primorja ali i sama biokovska vršna zavaran nude potencijal jama dubljih i do 1500 m. Veličanstvena je ovdje neizrecivost stalaktita, stalagmita, stupova, zavjesa, siga, špiljskih bisera i kristala; tajna otkrića nedosegnutih mogućnosti, u tišini koja nas čeka da joj se pridružimo, onako iskreno i bez uzvrata. Malo gdje u svijetu postoji visoka planina uz samu obalu mora. Sudar i spoj Mediterana i kontinenta ovdje je izrazito snažan, ali i bogat raznolikošću biljnog i životinjskog svijeta. Samo u špiljama do sada je utvrđeno više od 180 vrsta sa čak 60 endema Biokova. Na Biokovu obitavaju domaće životinje: koze, ovce, goveda, konji; te divlje. Ptice su u slobodnom letu: galice, sokolovi, suri orlovi. Ovdje vukovi, vjeverice, jeleni, divokoze, mufloni, kozorozi, medvjedi, lisice, divlje mačke i jazavci, i ostala divljač, žive u dohvatljivom prostoru mora i kopna, strmih obala i visinske zaravni. Na stjenovitome biokovskome masivu od samo 200 km2 očuvano je veliko bogatstvo životinjskog svijeta, koji se tek otkriva u svojoj punini. Bura je vjetar koji nastaje prelijevanjem i padanjem hladnog zraka s Biokova, prelazeći s kopna preko planinskih obronaka i gorskih lanaca u smjeru mora. Ovdje ga dočekuje morska pučina, mijenjajući, njoj u čast, svoju boju iz zelenkaste u biserno modru. Onome tko se nađe na njezinu putu, preporučuje se oprez i zavjetrina, jer njezina često i orkanska snaga, posebice ondje gdje se gorje proteže u samoj blizini morske obale, ne iskazuje sigurnost i zaštitu. Biokovski starosjedioci

buru uvijek dočekuju, naslućuju i tumače s posebnim poštovanjem i pozornošću, jer svjedoci su brojnih iskustava u kojima ona, spuštajući se s planine, povija i nosi sve pred sobom. Oni ga često kazuju i narodnom izrekom geografskog nastajanja: Na Dinari se rodila, u Makarskoj krstila, u Senju udala. Prvi planinarski uspon na Biokovo zabilježen je 1640. godine kad preko njega prelazi franjevac Pavao Pelizzer na putovanju od Makarske do samostana u Prološkom blatu, birajući tada izazovniji i teži put, umjesto lakšega i sigurnijega. Od njegova pohoda u neizvjesnost planinskog masiva, do 1929. godine kad počinje doba modernog planinarstva i alpinizma na Biokovu osnivanjem podružnice Hrvatskog planinarskog društva u Makarskoj, protječe gotovo tri stotine godina. U međuvremenu Biokovo je planinarski pohodio 1818. austrijski carski par Franjo I. i Karolina na proputovanju kroz Dalmaciju, u pratnji bečkog botaničara Franza Edlera von Portenschlag - Ledermayera, koji prvi otkriva biljno bogatstvo Biokova i otvara novo razdoblje botaničkog planinarenja. Dvadeset godina poslije, 1838., Biokovo je pohodio i saski kralj Fridrik August II. uz pratnju Bartolomea Biaseletta, botaničara i ljekarnika iz Trsta, koji detaljno opisuje njihov posjet toj planini. Planinarstvo je svjesno kretanje čovjeka planinom radi osnaživanja njegove fizičke i duhovne snage. Alpinizam je korak više; on potiče izazove vlastite snage preko iskaza srčanosti i samopouzdanja, timskog djelovanja, odgovornosti i stalne opreznosti. Oba su proizvod civilizacije, sastavni dio razvijenosti suradnje s prirodom pojedinog naroda. I mnogo više od toga, oni svojim izazovima osnažuju duhovni svijet pojedinca i njegovih životnih vrijednosti, koji se u prirodi izriču mnogo brže i jasnije, činom suradnje u svakom koraku i pruženoj ruci planinara ili alpinista. Sezona planinarenja na Biokovu počinje potkraj travnja i traje do kraja listopada. Zbog visine, orkanskih bura, snježnih vijavica i naglih promjena vremena, svi penjači na Biokovo poduzimaju složene pripreme za siguran i izazovan boravak u njegovoj vrleti. Stoljećima se po Biokovu hodalo samo pješice, uz pratnju naoružanog vodiča,

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noćilo se po špiljama i na otvorenom prostoru. Danas je uspon moguć markiranim planinarskim stazama, s boravkom u mnogobrojnim planinarskim domovima i kućama. U stijenama Biokova upisana je i tajna života. Prošlost se skriva u nutrini stijena, a mi, hodajući po njima, tek ponekad otkrijemo njihovu poruku. Tek kada nam se iz okamenina jasno pokažu fosili medvjeda, ptice, alge, ribe ili školjke te kada ih izvučemo iz njihova tisućljetna staništa, nanovo se začudimo, zatečeni viđenim. Iz drevnih vremena, starosjedioci, najčešće bake i majke, s koljena na koljeno prenose priče o biokovskim vilama i vilenjacima koji žive u špiljama, plešu u lugovima i uz planinske izvore. Duge kose te odjevene u prozračne velove, vile, priča se, vole pomagati ljudima i to na sasvim skrovit način. Pjevaju s vjetrovima, ali u njihove dvore ulaze samo pozvani. Stoljećima lebde oko planinskog svijeta stjenovitih planina, čuvaju ga, kao i ljude koji ovdje borave. Njima na spomen, nazvane su špilje Vilenjača i Vilin dolac. Takvo je Biokovo. Iako mistično povučeno u svoju prostranost, svakog istraživača poziva u svijet svojih tajni. A ima ih bezbroj; u svom biljnom opusu, prirodnoj, povijesnoj, seizmološkoj, običajnoj i kulturnoj baštini. Taj planinski masiv korisno je pohoditi otvoreno, iskreno, s dobrim namjerama. Tada se on, kao kakav dobrodušan čarobnjak, oprezno otvara svom dolazniku, nastavljajući osluškivati snagu njegove poniznosti i izvornost namjere. Uz takvo, uzajamno stvoreno poštovanje, prijateljstvo je neizbježno. Biokovo je i nesustala tajna, dio tek otkrivene riznice koju je Priroda privremeno podarila čovjeku na otkriće i odgovorno gospodarenje, na susret i dodir razumijevanja. U takvom obilju jedinstvene snage i svježine lako je osjećati se djetetom, jednostavno i nevino, ili kao kakav gorski javor, izvorno snažno i sigurno. S njegovih vidika dohvatan je osjet uzvišene slobode, uzlet radosti i duboke spoznaje da svaki život ima svoju svrhu, misiju i cilj postojanja. Ovdje penjačima i letačima i vrh iskazuje dobrodošlicu. 

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ow does one describe the longest and highest Dalmatian mountain massif, created in the Mesozoic 220 million years ago? How does one grasp its memories, its hidden emotions, its persistent immobility, eternal horizons? Wherein lies the enigma of such a rocky and colossal giant’s beginning? The wide plate that Africa lies on and the even larger plate supporting Asia and Europe are colliding in the depths of the Earth, they are moving and breaking its crust. The ground beneath them breaks, the Earth shakes, and lava dances high. The magma pours out and hardens… That is how many mountains and numerous hurricane-like high plains were created, and how the rocky sky-high structures in which life falls into the silence of creation after the underground and above-ground crescendo rose up from the ground. Man is then left in a space to recognize the universe in a grain of sand, a travelogue of one’s own awe over existence, and in the end, starting from the aforementioned, to recognize the consciousness of one’s own attitude towards oneself. In its ancient creation during the late cretaceous, when its range began to form near the coastal horizons, Biokovo developed as one of a kind in the Dinaric Alps, reaching its 1762 meters above sea level, with the peak named St. George featuring a namesake church nowadays the highest church in Croatia. With its position, this mountain range has always merged two landscapes; one that is mild and coastal, and the other which is continental and harsh. The colossal beauty, thirty six kilometres long and up to nine and a half kilometres in diameter, has grown as an unbridgeable divider, a strict border and master of weather conditions, which it decisively creates of its own will. On clear days, it offers vistas of urban areas of the Makarska Riviera beneath, but views also stretch across the Adriatic and reach the outline of the Italian coast. As well, it allows for sightings of soaring eagles in the blue skies above. The etymology of the name Biokovo suggests it came from the word white (bijel), because the continental

natives spent nine months of the year, for many centuries, looking at the highest peak of their mountain covered in snow. Biokovo is a mountain range with the second highest peak in Croatia, and it consists of three parts: the north western part features the peaks Šćirovac (1619 m), St. Elias (1642 m), Veliki Šibenik (1467 m), St. George (1762 m), Vošac (1421 m) and Kimet (1556 m). The landscape consists mostly of karst with forested areas. Almost all the peaks of Biokovo are difficult to access; it is a demanding and long process. Ascents to any of them must not be underestimated. The south-eastern part is also called Rilić, and it consists of the peaks Sutvid (1155 m), Sokolić (788 m) and Sveti Ilija (773 m). The main features of this part are paths leading to almost all of them, which were historic merchant routes towards the hinterland, stretching across most of the karst landscape. The third part is Zabiokovlje, consisting of Matokit Mountain with its highest peak St. Roch (1062 m). Climbing on the south side, one can pass through many old villages located beneath Biokovo, including Gornja Brela, Topići, Bast, Veliko Brdo, Makar, Kotišina, Gornji Tučepi, Gornja Podgora and Gornje Igrane; while the northern side features the villages of Kozica, Rasćane, Župa, Biokovsko Selo, Rastovac, Zagvozd and Zadvarje. In his book Seven Peaks, the renowned Croatian alpinist, Stipe Božić, writes of Biokovo as a mountain which attracted him with its personality from the time he was a child. Biokovo Mountain has a personality much like humans. At one point it is a graceful virgin whose beauty you silently kneel before, and at another point it threatens you with furious and deadly viciousness. The seasons do not always have to be the cause for this, because the mountain can be covered with an innocent white cloak of snow during the winter, giving it space-like beauty only the poets can write about. But this heavenly beauty can suddenly turn into a hellish orgy of wind in which a living being cannot survive without shelter. During the summer heat, people on the beaches of Makarska can hardly imagine that the peaks of Biokovo, just a two hour walk from the bot-

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tom, could be engulfed in a real alpine storm at that very moment. The Biokovo landscapes of the coastal areas of central and southern Dalmatia are differently experienced than the landscape of the Dalmatian hinterland. For the locals, this mountain colossus has always been their home, a mythological creature of their forefathers. For visitors of the coast, it is an array of fierce, bare and scary rocks. Mountaineers and alpinists view Biokovo as a challenge of courage, strength and respect. Speleologists see a diversity of underground life, leaving one breathless amidst new discoveries. Botanists admire the garden of exquisite beauty, featuring a floral stage of diversity. For tourists, it displays a unique beauty hidden in the secret of creation. Biokovo envelops landscapes of the coastal area of central and southern Dalmatia as well as the Dalmatian hinterland. For decades, the Biokovo Nature Park, spreading across almost 20,000 hectares and featuring the Kotišina botanical garden, has been maintaining the landscapes, preserving its habitats and biological diversity, the forests, the karst, the underground and grasslands that feature many unique, endemic, underground and aquatic habitats, karst waterways, puddles and wells, fields and pastures. For its natives, Biokovo is a sacred mountain, a source of food whose valleys and karst are fertile grounds for the cultivation of potatoes, grains, onions and plants from the bean family. Biokovo is a popular location for cattlefarming. Mountain cottages, so-called stanovi (lodges), were constructed to protect from the elements. Farmers from Primorje, especially Podgora and Tučepi, had the most lodges, while only three villages on the northern side of Biokovo - Župa, Krstatice and Zagvozd, had lodges. The largest and most interesting secondary livestock farming village is Podglogovik, with very well preserved spatial organization. Nowadays it is an abandoned village, featuring accommodation and farming facilities, puddles, water wells, outhouses and fertile valleys. In the past, while refrigerators were still not in use in the area, numerous ice-

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pits in the central part of Biokovo had major significance for the locals as they extracted ice from them. They used donkeys to transport ice blocks, which were padded with beech leaves and wrapped in goat hair fabric, to the villages beneath and behind Biokovo, where they were used in bars and restaurants. This is the explanation of Biokovo’s cultural heritage in the description of the Nature Park. It is filled with an abundance of culture as there are over 87 churches and chapels. Humans have continually occupied this area since ancient history, as the outer parts were inhabited much before the emergence of the first written word. Standing witness to this are the numerous archaeological localities and material remains. In the early Roman period, at the time of the implementation of writing, habitats in the Biokovo area reached a civilizational and cultural level of raising sacral structures. All of the churches on the peaks of Biokovo express a unity of faith and nature. Since ancient times, the beauty and diversity of the flora and fauna has attracted numerous mountaineers and visitors, predominantly biologists. The flora of Biokovo consists of more than 1400 species, but this is not the final number, because new species are continually being discovered, including many species endemic to Biokovo. Due to its botanical value, some parts of the park are protected as a reserve of forest vegetation, a botanical reserve, a geomorphological reserve and a botanical garden. It is amazing to see and feel the abundance of Mediterranean flora, including the evergreen oak, weaver’s broom, the Aleppo pine, the sycamore maple, wild asparagus and carob trees on a coastal mountain such as Biokovo. Its botanical garden, Kotišina, with autochthonous flora and vegetation, was conceived as a garden of the wild plants of Biokovo. It is positioned according to an idea by a Franciscan priest, Dr. Jure Radić, a renowned theologian and biologist. His dedicated work initiated the establishment of this unique nature reserve of plants from Biokovo and the Mediterranean on the south-western slopes of Biokovo, above

its namesake village, at a height between 350 and 500 meters above sea level. Along with Velebit, Biokovo is the most important hub for endemic flora, merging together the originality of images and scents that win over any visitor who respects the values of nature and the diversity of its heritage. Above all, Biokovo must be approached with heart, responsibly and openly. In such a way it is easier to experience the magnificence of space that lives under the stars of its own landscapes. It is at this point that the glades and paths, places and viewpoints of Biokovo will accept our company, support our friendship, and become open to honesty and understanding. The time is upon us, when we no longer have to interpret, assiduously report, and be in awe of the world and the sun. It is time to stop proving the measurable structure of everything that surrounds us. We need the depth of realisation that we are innocently directed to by nature which invites us to surrender to it like pearls in the sea. If we are to reach them, we must dive deep. Biokovo is a treasure trove where over 400 speleological features have been located; it is estimated that their total number exceeds 1000. This is a shell which reveals its speleological pearls gradually, and each and every pearl fascinates with its size, splendour, colour, beauty and simplicity. This is expressed by the lines describing the speleological potential of Biokovo in the Nature Park monograph. This area abounds in sinkholes, more than 90 per cent, while the rest are caves. Mokre Noge (Wet Legs), Amphora, Stara Škola (Old School), Vilimova Jama (Vilim’s Sinkhole) Jama za Kamenitim Vratima (Sinkhole behind the Stone Gate) are the deepest sinkholes, reaching depths of 840 metres. The range of the Zagorje littoral, including the Biokovo plateau, offers the potential of sinkholes deeper than 1500 metres. The indescribable aspects of the stalactites, stalagmites, columns, curtains, icicles, cave pearls and crystals is glorious; secret revelations of unattained possibilities, in a silence that waits for us to join it, sincerely, without payback.

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There are not many places in the world with a high mountain right next to the coast. The clash and embrace of the Mediterranean and the continent is very strong here, and also abundant in a diversity of plant and animal life. In the caves alone, over 180 species containing as many as 70 Biokovo endemic species have been determined. Domestic animals also live on Biokovo: goats, sheep, cattle, horses. There are also wild animals such as free flying birds: alpine coughs, falcons, golden eagles. This is where wolves, squirrels, deer, chamois, mouflon, ibex, bears, foxes, wildcats, badgers and other game live within the reachable area of the sea and mainland, the steep littoral and high plateaus. The 200 km2 of the rocky Biokovo mountain range boasts an exceptional wealth of the animal world, which is revealed only in its fullness. Bura is the wind which is created when the cold air spills over and descends from Biokovo, passing from the mainland across the mountain slopes and ridges in the direction of the sea. There, it is met by the expanse of the sea, which changes its colour from greenish to pearly blue in its honour. Those who find themselves in its path are well advised to exert caution and seek shelter, as it can sometimes be as strong as a hurricane, especially where the range runs close to the coast, and it does not express safety and protections. The locals of Biokovo always look for Bura, forebode and interpret it, with a special reverence and attention as they have seen it come down from the mountain many times bending and carrying everything in its path. They often express it with a popular saying of a geographic origin: It was born on Dinara, it was baptized in Makarska, and it got married in Senj. The first mountain trekking expedition on Biokovo was recorded in 1640 when the Franciscan monk, Pavao Pellizzer, crossed it on his way from Makarska to the monastery in Prološko Blato, having chosen a more demanding and harder route instead of an easier and safer one. Nearly 300 hundred

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years had passed from his expedition into the uncertainty of the mountain range, until 1929, the year when the opening of a branch of the Croatian Mountaineering Society in Makarska marked the beginning of the era of modern mountaineering and alpinism on Biokovo. In the meantime, the Austrian imperial couple, Franz I and his wife Karoline, trekked to Biokovo in 1818 during their visit to Dalmatia, accompanied by Viennese botanist Franz Edler von Portenschlag - Ledermayer, who was the first to discover the wealth of flora on Biokovo and who started a new era of botanical mountain trekking. Twenty years later, in 1838, Biokovo was also visited by Friedrich August II von Sachsen in the company of Bartolomeo Biaselett, a botanist and pharmacist from Trieste who described their visit to the mountain in great detail. Mountaineering is the conscious movement of a human being on a mountain, aimed at invigorating his physical and spiritual strength. Alpinism is a step further; it inspires the challenges of one’s own strength through the expression of prowess and self-assuredness, team action, responsibility and constant vigilance. Both are products of civilization, an integral part of the culture of cooperation with nature developed by a nation. And much more than that; with their challenges, they enhance the spiritual world of an individual and their life values which are expressed much faster and stronger in nature, through an act of cooperation every step of the way and an arm extended by a mountaineer or an alpinist. The trekking season on Biokovo starts in late April and lasts until the end of October. Mindful of its height, the hurricane-like bura wind, snow storms and sudden changes of weather, all trekkers headed for Biokovo undertake complex preparations for a safe and challenging stay on its cliffs. For centuries, the only way to Biokovo was on foot, in the company of an armed guide; nights were spent in caves and in the open. Today, one can climb the mountain along signposted mountain trails, and overnight in one of the numerous mountain lodges and houses.

The secret of life is inscribed into the rocks of Biokovo. The past is hidden inside the rocks while, walking on them, we discover their message only every once in a while. Only when a petrified fossil of a bear, a bird, algae, fish or shellfish reveals itself to us clearly do we again wonder in awe about what we see. Since ancient times, the locals, usually grandmothers and mothers, have been telling tales of the Biokovo fairies and elves that live in the caves, dance in the forests and by the mountain springs. Legend has it that the fairies, sporting long hair and dressed in transparent veils, like to help people in a very furtive way. They sing with the winds, but they enter the houses only if invited. For centuries they have been hovering over the mountain world of these rocky mountains, protecting it as they do the people who live here. The Vilenjača and Vilin Dolac caves have been named in their memory. This is what Biokovo is like. Although mystically retracted into its expanse, it invites every explorer into the world of its secrets. They are countless: in its plant opus, and its natural, historical, seismological, customary and cultural heritages. It is useful to visit this mountain range openly, sincerely, and with good intentions. Like a benevolent magician, it will then open cautiously to its visitor, continuing to listen to the power of its humility and genuine intentions. Given such mutual respect, friendship is inevitable. Biokovo is also an everlasting secret, part of the barely discovered treasure trove which Nature has temporarily given to people to discover and manage responsibly, to meet and touch with appreciation. In this abundance of unique power and freshness, it is easy to feel like a child, to feel simple and innocent like a mountain maple, genuinely strong and safe. The feeling of mighty freedom is attainable from its vantage points, a surge of joy and a deep understanding that every life has its purpose, mission and goal of existence. This is where the Pinnacle itself wishes welcome to both climbers and flyers. 

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OBALA COAST

Lučica (mandrać) s kućom Andrije Mohorovičića u pozadini The port (Mandrać) with the house of Andrija Mohorovičić in the background

Piπe/By Davor Žic

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Mjesto blizu Opatije, koje se može premjeriti sa samo nekoliko dugih koraka, u svojoj je povijesti prošlo mnoge uloge - od navodnog utočišta za odbjegle senjske uskoke, preko glavnoga grada regije koju je tvorio kvarnerski dio Primorja i istočna obala Istre, do modernoga turističkog središta i gastronomske meke. Located near Opatija, the town of Volosko, which can be walked across in a few long strides, has had many different roles throughout its history - from being an alleged shelter for the Uskok guerrillas of Senj, to being the capital city of the area comprised of the Kvarner region of Primorje and the eastern coast of Istria, to a modern tourist hub and gastronomic mecca.

ijukom vjetra opjevane uske uličice i strma stubišta Voloskog i lomom valova oblikovana obala ukrašena uzbibalim drvenim barkama danas su pozornica za najuzbudljivije doživljaje što ih može ponuditi domaća gastronomska scena. Mjesto blizu Opatije, koje se može premjeriti sa samo nekoliko dugih koraka, u svojoj je povijesti prošlo mnoge uloge od navodnog utočišta za odbjegle senjske uskoke, preko glavnoga grada regije koju je tvorio kvarnerski dio Primorja i istočna obala Istre, do modernoga turističkog središta i gastronomske meke u kojoj djeluju restorani kojima se klanja čitava hrvatska kulinarska javnost. Praktički vrata do vrata smjestili su se lokali koji redovito osvajaju domaća i strana gastronomska priznanja - Plavi podrum jedne od najpoznatijih hrvatskih somelijerki Danijele Kramarić, konoba Tramerka čijim jelovnikom vladaju isključivo riblji specijaliteti, restoran Mili, poznat po fantastičnom pogledu na lučicu i zaljev, Ivka sa svojom stoljetnom poviješću i prehrambeni klasik - Amfora Josipa Taribe, koja je u Hrvatsku i uvela pojam fine dining. Samo dvije ulice i luka, po domaću rečeno mandrać, dovoljne su za to gastronomsko

carstvo, jednako kao što su bile dovoljne za gradnju nekad moćne brodograđevne i pomorske industrije, koja je jednog Vološćana odvela na Sjeverni pol, a drugog u središte Zemlje. Ime prvoga bilo je Jakov Sučić, a ubraja se među preživjele članove iscrpljujuće dvogodišnje ekspedicije do najsjevernije točke svijeta, koju su predvodili austrijski istraživači u drugoj polovici 19. stoljeća. Vrijeme je to kada su uglačane ploče vološćanskih ulica tukli potplati petnaestogodišnjeg Andrije Mohorovičića, jednoga od najslavnijih hrvatskih znanstvenika, u svijetu poznatoga po otkriću sloja u Zemljinoj kori, nazvanoga upravo njegovim imenom. Čitavo mjesto nastalo je prije otprilike pet stotina godina, oko crkvice sv. Roka, zaštitnika od kuge i kolere, pa se pretpostavlja da su njegovi prvi stanovnici bili članovi nekoliko obitelji što su izbjegle s istarskog područja zahvaćenog velikim epidemijama tih bolesti s prijelaza iz 15. u 16. stoljeće. I poslije je Volosko otvorenih ruku primalo pridošlice, no umjesto izbjeglica stizali su uglavnom imućniji plemići i gospodarstvenici iz Austrije i Mađarske te trgovci i brodograditelji iz Italije. Na tom susretu brojnih kultura i društvenih utjecaja razvilo se

Panorama Voloskog Panoramic view of Volosko

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LuÄ?ica s restoranom The port with the restaurant

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Detalj suvremene gastronomske ponude voloĹĄÄ‡anskih restorana Details of the modern gastronomic offer of the restaurants in Volosko

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Catching-up over coffee by the sea

jedinstveno mjesto u Hrvatskoj, koje je spojilo klasičnu secesijsku arhitekturu s potpisom slavnog arhitekte Karla Seidla i mediteranski štih. Središte života - ulica - uokvirena je malim i uskim terasama ugostiteljskih objekata s nekoliko stolova prekrivanih kockastim crvenim stolnjacima i urbanim vilama visokih svodova i širokih prozora, pod kojima se suši svježe oprano rublje i vise lončanice sa šarenim primorskim cvijećem. A zvučna kulisa te slike uvijek je šum mora... Uz dvije glavne vološćanske plaže - Črnikovicu na istočnom kraju mjesta i Lipovicu na zapadu, Volosko ima i brojne divlje plažice razasute uz obalni put. Lokalni će mještani najradije za svoje ljetno osvježenje izabrati mul ili vaterpolsku pasarelu u središtu mjesta. Upravo na mulu počinje i obalna šetnica lungomare, jedan od najprepoznatljivijih simbola Opatije i njezine rivijere, koja se u dužini od više nego 13 kilometara proteže od Voloskog

Crkva sv. Ane u zoru St. Anna Church at dawn

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do Lovrana. Točka je to u kojoj su tankom crtom obale spojeni plavetnilo mora i modrina neba, razigranost Sredozemlja i strogoća austrijskog naslijeđa, kao stvorena za upoznavanje kulture i gastronomije, arhitekture i prirodnih ljepota, prošlosti i sadašnjosti čitavog kraja... 

olosko’s narrow streets and steep staircases that resonate with the whirring of the wind, and its shore shaped by the breaking waves, adorned by rocking wooden boats, are nowadays a stage for the most exciting experiences offered on the domestic gastronomic scene. Located near Opatija, the town of Volosko, which can be walked across in a few long strides, has had many different roles throughout its history - from being an alleged shelter for the Uskok guerrillas of Senj, to being the capital city of the area comprised of the Kvarner region of Primorje and the eastern coast of Istria, to a modern tourist hub and gastronomic mecca, featuring restaurants highly renowned among the entire Croatian culinary population. Located practically door to door, there are establishments which regularly win Croatian and foreign gastronomic awards; Plavi Podrum (The Blue Basement) - owned by Danijela Kramarić, one of the best sommeliers in Croatia, the Tramerka tavern - featuring a menu that is dominated by fish specialties, the Mili restaurant - known for its fantastic view of the harbour and the bay, Ivka - with its hundred year history, and Amfora - the gastronomic classic owned by Josip Tariba, which introduced the term fine dining in Croatia. Only two streets and a harbour - mandrać, as the locals say, are enough for this gastronomic

Fotografije/Photos Turistička zajednica Opatije/Opatija Tourist Board

Druženje na kavi uz more

empire, just like they were enough for the construction of the once mighty shipbuilding and naval industries, and enough to take one citizen of Volosko to the North Pole and another to the centre of the Earth. The name of the first man was Jakov Sučić, one of the surviving members of the gruelling two year expedition to the northernmost spot on the planet which was led by Austrian explorers in the second half of the 19th century. Right at that same time, the smooth stone pavements of the streets of Volosko were being tread on by the soles of fifteen year old Andrija Mohorovičić, one of Croatia’s most renowned scientists who is globally renowned for discovering a layer in the Earth’s crust, which has been named after him. The town was founded some five hundred years ago around the church of St. Roch, the protector from the plague and cholera, so it is assumed that its first citizens were members of several families who fled from the parts of Istria which were affected by major epidemics of the two diseases at the turn of the 16th century. Later on, Volosko also welcomed newcomers with open arms. However, instead of refugees, they were well-off noblemen and businessmen from Austria and Hungary, as well as merchants and shipbuilders from Italy. A unique town in Croatia has developed at this crossroads of numerous cultures and social influences, merging together classical secession architecture by the famous architect Karl Seidl with Mediterranean influences. Therefore, the centre of life is - the street; dotted by small and narrow bar and restaurant terraces, with tables covered with red chequered tablecloths, and urban villas with high ceilings and wide windows, with freshly washed laundry hung out to dry and pots with colourful flowers. The background sound of this image is the constant humming of the sea… Along with the two main beaches, Črnikovica on the eastern side and Lipovica to the west, Volosko also has a number of small wild beaches scattered along the waterfront, but the locals prefer the pier of the water-polo pool in the centre of town for their summer refreshment. The pier is the beginning of the Lungomare seaside promenade, one of the most recognizable symbols of Opatija and its Riviera, which stretches for 13 kilometres between Volosko and Lovran. This narrow strip of the shore connects the blueness of the sea and the sky, Mediterranean playfulness and the austerity of Austrian heritage; it is perfect for getting to know the local culture and gastronomy, architecture and natural beauties, the past and present of the entire area… 

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BAŠTINA HERITAGE

Stari grad Ozalj Old town of Ozalj

Piπe/By Dubravka Belas Fotografije/Photos Romeo Ibrišević

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Stari grad Ozalj podignut je na litici iznad zelene rijeke, upravo na blagom zavoju, ondje gdje Kupa meandrira tako da ima ulogu opkopa. Sa svojim snažnim bedemima i potpornjima moćan je, tajanstven i nekako tragičan, nerazdvojan od nesretne kobi svojih najpoznatijih gospodara, Zrinskih i Frankopana. The old town of Ozalj was built on a cliff above a green river, right on a slight bend, where the Kupa River meanders in such a way it takes on the role of a moat. Powerful with its strong walls and abutments, it is mysterious and somehow tragic, inseparable from the unfortunate fate of its most famous landlords, the Zrinski and Frankopan families.

ko od nas nije katkad poželio, umoran, putujući u kasne sate pustom cestom ili vlakom, skloniti se, barem na noć, u jednome od onih starih gradova-dvoraca koji se naziru uz put, ili prugu, osvijetljenom izvana, uspavanom na svojoj uzvisini, uzdignutom i odvojenom od svijeta, namjerno nepristupačnom, možda i napuštenom, i ondje potražiti utočište, zaštitu od svijeta, san i zaborav. Onako kako ti dvorci na usamljenim stijenama već bivaju zaboravljeni i ostavljeni vremenu da ih rastače, sve dok ne nestane posljednji trag sjajnoga života koji se nekad odvijao između njihovih sjenovitih zidina. Stari grad Ozalj, podignut na litici iznad zelene rijeke, upravo na blagom zavoju, ondje gdje Kupa meandrira tako da ima ulogu opkopa, jedan je od takvih dvoraca, sa svojim snažnim

bedemima i potpornjima moćan, tajanstven i nekako tragičan, nerazdvojan od nesretne kobi svojih najpoznatijih gospodara, Zrinskih i Frankopana. Nesretne, možda baš zato što su bili drugačiji od nas koji bismo se, posve neviteški, ondje rado odmarali i sklanjali od nemira i buke. Znali su i mogli su uživati u lagodnome životu u dvorcu, u svili i brokatu, raskošnim tapetama, lusterima, firentinskim suknima, turskim sagovima, porculanu i pozlaćenim krevetima, čak i konjskoj opremi urešenoj draguljima, smaragdima i rubinima, optočenoj srebrom, jednako ukrašenom oružju, stolnim i posteljnim čipkama, u finim vinima i knjigama. Mogli su, ali nisu. Nešto drugo im je bilo važnije - ne samo obraniti Hrvatsku, nego joj osigurati dostojniji status u sklopu tadašnje državne zajednice i za to su

bili spremni svega se odreći. Iako gospodari mnogih dvoraca, od mora do Mure, upravo su Ozalj učinili središtem svoga djelovanja, i književnoga i političkoga. Odavde su ti plemići i hrvatski banovi odlazili u borbe protiv Turaka, vraćajući se iz njih proslavljeni pobjedama. Nikola Zrinski svojom je vojskom prodro sve do Osijeka, spalivši poznati Sulejmanov most na Dravi i ritovima, za što ga je nagradio i francuski kralj Luj XIV. Petar je istodobno kod Otočca u Lici pobijedio veliku vojsku pod vodstvom Ali-paše Čengića, kojega je utamničio u Bakru. Iz Ozlja su odašiljali svoje glasnike na sve strane, spremajući oslobođenje domovine od tuđinske vlasti. Habzburzi su, naime, u početku 17. stoljeća vladali apsolutistički, otimajući Hrvatskoj i Ugarskoj ostatke ostataka samostalnosti i sklapajući sramni CROATIA AIRLINES

mir s Turcima, kojim se zadržava status quo. Teško izvojevane pobjede nad Turcima bečki dvor nije iskoristio za konačno oslobađanje hrvatskih i ugarskih krajeva, bojeći se njihovih separatističkih težnji. Zbog toga neprihvatljivoga mira, ali i sve rjeđeg sazivanja sabora, hrvatski su se i ugarski velikaši urotili i odlučili, uz pomoć saveznika, zaratiti i protiv Turaka i protiv Beča. No, Francuska i Venecija iz vlastitih su ih interesa napustili, a kad su Petar Zrinski i Fran Krsto Frankopan pošli u Beč pregovarati - ondje ih uhitiše, baciše u tamnicu i naposljetku smaknuše odsijecanjem glava. Jedan od najpotresnijih tekstova ispisanih na hrvatskome jeziku pismo je koje Petar uoči smaknuća piše svojoj Ani Katarini: Drago moje zercze, moje drago srce, počinje tako jedan od najdirljivijh tekstova na hrvatskome jeziku. Napisan ispisanim, lijepim, ali muškim rukopisom junaka kojeg će sutra pogubiti, pomirenog sa sudbinom, dostojanstvenog i muževnog, koji s golemom nježnošću već naziva svoju voljenu suprugu udovicom, moleći Boga s kojim se sutra nada naći, samo to da se jednom u vječnosti ponovno sretnu. To potresno pismo svjedoči ne samo o tragediji jedne obitelji nego i nesretnoj sudbini jednog naroda. Zrinski i Fran Krsto pogubljeni su, Petrova udovica, koja je u svemu stajala uz njega, umire zatočena u samostanu u Grazu, a sin u bečkoj tamnici. Tuđinska se vlast u Hrvatskoj toliko proširila da je neko vrijeme bila ukinuta i banska čast, zapisuje Dražen Budiša u knjižici u kojoj je prikupio prijevode toga jedinstvenog pisma - na latinski, njemački, talijanski, nizozemski, engleski, francuski, španjolski i mađarski. Zavjera je imala velik odjek inspiriravši mnoge knjige diljem Europe, a o procesu zavjerenicima pisao je i bečki dvor. Srednjovjekovni stari grad, okosnica budućega grada Ozlja u njegovu podnožju, sazdan je od tesanoga kamena na ostacima gradine iz 6. stoljeća, podignute na rimskim razvalinama. Prvi se put spominje 1244. kad ga gradi velikaška obitelj Babonić. Nakratko prelazi u kraljeve ruke, ali Babonići su ga ubrzo vratili, a poslije njih smjenjuju se gospodari: Frankopani, Zrinski, Perlasi, Batthyányiji te Thurn i Taxisi. Ovi potonji već zapušteni dvorac 1928. godine daruju današnjim vlasnicima - družbi Braća hrvatskoga zmaja, koji zaustavljaju njegovo propadanje. Emilij Laszowski, svestrani čuvar mnogih hrvatskih tradicija i jedan od obnovitelja viteške družbe koja datira iz 1408. godine, ovako ga opisuje: Pred nama na pećini koči se ozaljski grad sa svojim istočnim dvokatnim krilom, opasan jakim zidinama i polukružnim kulama. Cijela je pećina obrasla drvećem i grmljem, što pruža osobito ugodan dojam, voljku i romantičnu sliku. 62

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Opisuje dalje Laszowski hladno vrelo Curak u podnožju klisure, za koje se vjeruje da je nekad bilo povezano s gradom. Tko se iz njega napije, ne zaboravlja nikad Ozlja, smatra se. Curak, kaže Laszowski, ne presahne nikada, ali izvire vrlo slabo, tako da je potrebno nešto vremena da se nacrpi koju mjericu vode, pa ga nazvaše i vrelom hrvatske ustrpljivosti. Pregradnje i nadogradnje tijekom različitih stoljeća učinile su stari grad arhitektonski heterogenim i osobito zanimljivim. Tako se u njemu razaznaju različita stilska obilježja, od gotičke kapelice i galerije do baroknog trakta. U Stari grad ulazi se preko drvenog mosta koji se sve do 1821. podizao lancima uz pomoć kotura u zidu ulazne kule. Stup koji nosi most zapravo je nekadašnja kula stražarnica koja je s puškarnicama - otvorima za strijelce, danas zazidanima, služila za obranu gradskog opkopa. Stup je i konstrukcijski vrlo zanimljiv jer donji mu je dio građen na osnovi trokuta a gornji je dio četverokutan. Ulaznu kulu s teškim hrastovim vratima sagradio je Juraj Zrinski 1599. godine, a grof Perlas nadogradio drugim katom u 18. stoljeću, kad je grad obnovljen u lijepi dvorac. Najstariji dio cijeloga kompleksa je tzv. Babonić kula, glavna branič-kula. Sva tri krila, južno, istočno i sjeverno visoke su dvokatne zgrade. Ulazna je kula s jednom malom kulom povezana drvenim trijemom, sagrađenim poslije Prvoga svjetskog rata. Dvokatna kula, kojom završava sjeverno krilo, glavna je i najveća kula ozaljske tvrđave, odakle se prostire pogled na žumberačke brežuljke i vinograde i na dolinu mirne, smaragdne Kupe. Nadsvođeni prolazi, tamnica, u kamenu uklesan grb Frankopana, ostaci kamene ograde napuštenog bunara na kojoj je uklesana godina 1450., sve je to ostavština višestoljetnog niza časnih ozaljskih gospodara. Ipak, od svega se osobito ističe masivno staro zdanje, Palas Zrinskih, oslonjeno na moćnu stijenu kroz koju je na dnu probijen željeznički tunel. Danas je odvojen od ostalih zgrada, ali po udubinama u zidu može se pretpostaviti da je drvenim trijemom nekoć bio povezan s glavnom kulom. Nad ulaznim kasnogotičkim vratima uklesan je natpis NICO.CO.ZR.1556. (Nicolaus comes Zriniensis, Nikola grof Zrinski). Zidovi su dvorca bili oslikani biblijskim motivima, prilično neuobičajeno za svjetovne zgrade toga doba. Krov je nekoć bio pokriven raženom slamom, ali pod težinom snijega propao je u početku pedesetih godina prošlog stoljeća pa se morao rekonstruirati. U ovome danas obnovljenom zamku teško je kretati se, a ne pomisliti na život koji je nekad među tim zidovima odjekivao punom snagom. Upravo se ovdje održala vesela svadba Petra

Ulazna kula s prilaznim mostom (koji je do 1821. bio pomiÄ?an) Entrance tower and bridge (which was movable until 1821) CROATIA AIRLINES

Povijesni grb Frankopana, dva lava koji lome kruh Frankopan familyâ€™s historic coat of arms, depicting two lions breaking a loaf of bread

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Krilo dvorca iz 18. stoljeÄ‡a Wing of the castle from the 18 th century CROATIA AIRLINES

Zrinskog i Katarine Frankopanske, na kojoj su pirovali i predstavnici bečke vladarske kuće, Mletačke Republike, velikaši plemići, ali i obični građani, čak i kmetovi slobodnjaci. Nije teško na ovim puteljcima, unutarnjim vrtovima i lijepim terasama zamisliti tankoćutnoga ljepuškastog Frana Krstu da baš ovdje upoznaje tulipe, narcize, hijacint, i naglic, lilije i jalzamin, violice, dragoljub i zvončace, gusto zasađene, od kojih će jednom sastaviti svoj Gartlic. Ti su časni gospodari Ozlja trajno nastojali unaprijediti svoj grad, izborivši se da mjestu budu odobrena četiri godišnja sajma i razviti ga u važno trgovište te su činili još mnoga dobra svojim podanicima. Obje su obitelji predstavljale visoko hrvatsko plemstvo, a uza zasluge u obrani nacionalnog teritorija, graditeljstvo i gospodarstvo, najvažnija su njihova zalaganja za hrvatsku kulturu. Matoš je o njima zapisao: Slaveći posljednjeg Zrinskog i posljednjeg Frankopana, ne slavimo u njima samo najdivnije predstavnike onoga doba u našem narodu, nego ih slavimo kao rijetke ljude, koji se ne rodiše za stotinu, nego za stotine godina prerano... Uistinu, uz više regionalnih književnih krugova u Hrvatskoj u 17. stoljeću postaje sve aktualnije pitanje standardnog, jedinstvenog hrvatskog jezika. Najvažniji su pisci Ozaljskoga književnoga kruga upravo Petar Zrinski koji s mađarskoga prevodi ep Adrianskoga mora sirena svoga brata Nikole, supruga mu Ana Katarina Zrinska koja upravo u Ozlju sastavlja molitvenik Putni tovaruš, Fran Krsto Frankopan, njezin brat, koji prvi prevodi Molièrea na hrvatski jezik i piše pjesme koje će skupiti u zbirku Gartlic za čas kratiti. Oni, uz pomoć Ivana Belostenca, pavlinskoga redovnika i leksikografa, nastoje stvoriti najpravedniji jezik koji bi ujedinio sva tri narječja u amalgamu kajkavskog, čakavskog i štokavskoga narječja s ikavsko-ekavskim elementima i koji bi bio razumljiv na što većem području Hrvatske. Taj je jezično standardizacijski napor prekinut tragičnim smaknućem u Bečkom Novom Mjestu. Da su okolnosti bile samo malo drugačije, da su Francuska i Venecija bile pouzdaniji saveznici, ili bečka vlast manje apsolutistička, hrvatska bi povijest možda bila posve drugačija i toliko sretnija. Ovako, nakon sloma urote i smaknuća zavjerenika, kralj je odredio zapljenu obiteljskih imanja. Ugrabili su tada pljačkaši iz Ozlja neizmjerno blago; zapisano je da trgaše čak i ključanice s vrata i stakla s prozora. Bogati i ponosni Ozalj opustio je. Poslije Zrinskih, ta je prostrana zgrada više puta promijenila vlasnike. Danas je u dvorcu smješten Zavičajni muzej, muzej u muzeju, kako ga nazivaju. Raspolaže izlošcima iz vre66

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mena Zrinskih i Frankopana, osobito vezanima za njihovu kulturnu djelatnost. U muzeju se, među ostalima, nalaze i zbirke hladnog i vatrenog oružja, artefakti pretpovijesnog razdoblja, crkveno-vjerski izlošci, ali i slike najveće hrvatske akvarelistice Slave Raškaj s kraja 19. i početka 20. stoljeća. Nježne i smirene palete, često slikanje bjelinom - ostavljanjem dijelova podloge neobojenima, napravila je mnoge zimske vizure svoga kraja, slikajući hrabro od početka do kraja slike na otvorenom; znala je nenadmašno uhvatiti sjetnu zimsku svjetlost nad snijegom zabijeljenim zrinskim gradom. Jednako su poznati i njezini lopoči iz kojih se ponajviše razabire utjecaj secesije na njezino slikarstvo, ali i lepršavi pasteli, tehnika koju rezervira za portrete. Njezini su motivi tajanstveni stari grad Ozalj, stari mlin, seljačke kuće iz okolice Ozlja, pokrivene slamom, proljeće na rijeci. I sama tragične sudbine, gluhonijema u vrijeme kad je to smatrano gotovo umobolnošću, uspijeva završiti škole i i umjetničke poduke i u svome kratkome životu (umire u 29. godini) dospjeti u vrh hrvatskoga slikarstva onoga doba, reformirajući ga svježinom, iskrenošću i neopterećenošću akademskim iskustvom. Ozaljski kraj danas privlači svojim ljepotama i očuvanošću prirode u krajoliku u kojem se miješaju i planinske i nizinske osobine - uokviren i ispresijecan blistavim vrpcama rijeka Dobre i Kupe, brežuljkast poput toskanskog pejzaža u kojem nedostaju tek tamni tornjevi čempresa. Da su te ljepote odavno bile otkrivene, svjedoči niz plemićkih dvoraca sagrađenih u okolici, od Gornjeg Pokuplja, Jaškova, Hrašća, Ribnika, Pribića, do posve razrušenog Brlog-grada. Nebrojena skrovita mjesta za plivanje, tamne i duboke šume sa svojim proplancima na kojima srećete zečeve i srne, špiljama poput prekrasne Vrlovke u Kamanju, za hodanje i šetnju, vinorodnim goricama u okolici za kušanje lokalnih kapljica, poput vivodinske vinske ceste dugačke 30 kilometara. Slikovite planinarske staze, obrubljene gorskim cvjetnim livadama, na Vodenici i Geri, ovjenčanoj legendom o Krvavom kamenu, i danas ugrađenom u zidine kapelice sv. Gere, jedno su od najomiljenijih planinarskih odredišta. Tu je i etnološki osobito zanimljivo staro, planski građeno srednjovjekovno naselje Trg, koje se prvi put spominje davne 1329. godine. Naselje osobite povijesti i osebujnih običaja, gotovo posve okruženo rijekom, još čuva stare prizemnice od hrastovih greda, spajanih na hrvaški vugl, pokrivene škopom. Ondje izrađuju tršku jalbu, čipkasto pokrivalo za glavu, koje su ovdje nosile udane žene na svojevrsnim roščićima. Te su čipkane kapice ispletene tzv. egipatskim pletivom, prepletanjem vodoravnih

niti na okomitu potku razapetu na lučni okvir. Zanimljivo je, zbog običaja da samo udane žene smiju nositi takvu kapicu, najpoznatija pletilja, neudana Regina Paljunac, koja je isplela nebrojene jalbe i od toga živjela, nikada ih nije smjela nositi. Na putu prema Trgu, nedaleko od središta Ozlja, smješten je Etno park, kao dio Etnografskog odjela Zavičajnog muzeja Ozalj. Na Kupi ćete zacijelo naići na još jedno zdanje koje je također slično srednjovjekovnome dvorcu, sagrađeno od kamena, sa svim onim tornjićima i krunama i arkadama i svodićima potrebnima da bi neki dvorac izgledao kao iz neke romantične bajke. Tek kad se približite, otkrit ćete da je riječ o jednom od najljepših primjeraka industrijske arhitekture u nas, hidroelektrani Ozalj I, kako je ovdje nazivaju - munjari, sagrađenoj po nacrtima Hermana Bolléa u početku prošlog stoljeća za samo godinu i pol dana. Munjara i danas, kao prije više od stotinu godina, opskrbljuje struju odrađujući svojih uobičajenih pet tisuća sati godišnje. U obližnjim Sveticama krasna je crkva s ostacima nekadašnjega golemoga pavlinskog samostana i sačuvanim, osobito lijepim, umjetnički izrezbarenim klupama i klecalima za fratre, u kasnorenesansnom i ranobaroknome stilu, s raskošnim glavnim i još sedam bočnih oltara, te orguljama. Zbog povijesne i kulturne baštine ozaljskoga kraja i njegove prirodne ljepote, mirisa šuma, žubora rijeka, boje zemlje, nikad ga nećete zaboraviti, čak i ako ne popijete ni kap sporoga Curka, što izvire pod ponositim i prkosnim zamkom Zrinskih i Frankopana. 

ho has never wished to find overnight refuge after a tiring late night journey by road or train at one of those old castles located by the road or railway tracks, lit from the outside, sleepily perched atop its hill, separated from the rest of the world, intentionally inaccessible, maybe even abandoned, and seek shelter, protection from the world, rest and oblivion? Castles on top of solitary rocks, such as these, are mostly forgotten and left to the elements, until the last traces of the fantastic life that once took place among its rocky walls are gone. The old town of Ozalj, built on a cliff above a green river, right on a slight bend, where the Kupa River meanders in such a way it takes on the role of a moat, is one such castle, powerful with its strong walls and abutments, mysterious and somehow tragic, inseparable from the unfortunate fate of its most famous landlords, the Zrinski and Frankopan families. Unfortunate, perhaps, because they were different CROATIA AIRLINES

from us - who would most unchivalrously just rest there and hide from all the turmoil and noise. They knew and could have enjoyed a leisurely life in a castle, in silk and brocade, with luxurious tapestries, chandeliers, Florentine cloth, Turkish rugs, porcelain and gilded beds, even riding equipment laden with jewels, emeralds and rubies and covered in silver, equally decorated armaments, table and bed cloths, fine wine and books. They could have, but they didn’t. Something else was more important - not just to defend Croatia, but to ensure a more worthy status within the framework of the state; and they were ready to give everything up for it. Although they were the landlords of many castles, from the coast to the Mura River, they designated Ozalj as their headquarters for literary and political activity. This is the place from which the Croatian noblemen and bans went to fight the Turks, returning famously victorious. Nikola Zrinski and his army pushed all the way to Osijek, burning the famous Suleiman’s Bridge over the Drava River, for which he was awarded by French King Louis XIV. At the same time, at Otočac, Petar conquered the large army of Ali-pasha Čengić, whom he imprisoned in Bakar. They sent their messengers from Ozalj, preparing the liberation of the homeland from foreign rule. In the early 17th century, the Habsburg absolutist rule deprived Croatia and Hungary of the very last aspects of independence, and made shameful peace with the Turks, thereby maintaining a status-quo. Difficult victories over the Turks were not used by the Viennese court in the final liberation of the Croatian and Hungarian territories, as it was afraid of their separatist tendencies. Because of the unacceptable peace, but also due to rare parliament gatherings, the Croatian and Hungarian nobility conspired against it and decided to engage in a war with its allies against the Turks and Vienna. However, due to their own interest, France and Venice turned their backs on them, and when Petar Zrinski and Fran Krsto Frankopan went to Vienna to negotiate they were arrested, imprisoned and finally executed by beheading. One of the most distressing texts written in the Croatian language was a letter written by Petar to his Ana Katarina, prior to his execution. My dear heart… Thus begins one of the most touching texts in the Croatian language. It was handwritten in a nice, yet still masculine penmanship by a hero who would be executed the following day, having come to terms with his destiny, dignified and virile, already referring to his beloved wife as a widow with great gentleness, praying to God with whom he was hoping to meet the following day, that 68

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they would one day be reunited in eternity. The harrowing letter stands witness to the tragedy of one family, but also the unfortunate destiny of an entire nation. Zrinski and Fran Krsto were executed, his widow, who always supported him in everything, died imprisoned in a convent in Graz, while his son died in a dungeon in Vienna. Foreign rule had spread to such an extent in Croatia that even the honour of bans was abolished for a while, wrote Dražen Budiša in a booklet in which he gathered translations of this unique writing - in Latin, German, Italian, Dutch, English, French, Spanish and Hungarian. The conspiracy became widely heard of, it inspired numerous books across Europe, and even the Viennese court wrote about the conspirators’ trial. The old, medieval town, a foundation of the future town of Ozalj at its base, was built out of chiselled stone on the remains of a 6 th century Roman structure. It was first mentioned in 1244, during the rise of the Babonić noble family. It was briefly owned by the king before it was returned to the Babonić family. The landlords succeeding them changed as follows: Frankopan, Zrinski, Perlas, Batthany and Thurn and Taxis. In 1928, the latter gave the already decrepit castle to its current owners - the Brethren of the Croatian Dragon, who are working to prevent its complete demise. Emilij Laszowski, a versatile custodian of numerous Croatian traditions and one of the reformers of the society dating back to 1408, describes it in the following words: In front of us, perched atop a cave, is the town of Ozalj, with its eastern two storey wing surrounded with strong walls and semi-circular towers. The entire cave is overgrown with trees and bushes, which creates an especially pleasant impression and a romantic image. Laszowski continues to describe the Curak cold spring at the bottom of the cliff, which is believed to have been connected to the town once: Whoever drinks from it will never forget Ozalj. According to Laszowski, the Curak never dries up, but it discharges sparsely. Therefore, it takes some time to gather a usable amount of water, which is why they also call it the spring of Croatian patience. Reconstruction and additions made over the centuries have rendered the old town architecturally heterogeneous and particularly interesting. As a result, it features various styles, ranging from a gothic chapel and gallery to a baroque tract. The old town is accessible via a wooden bridge which was movable until 1821 by means of chains and a pulley located in the wall of the entrance tower. The abutment bearing the bridge was actually a former guard

tower which served to defend the town moat by way of its loopholes for archers, which have since been walled up. The abutment is structurally very interesting because its bottom part is triangular, while the upper part is rectangular. The entrance tower, with its heavy oak doors, was built by Juraj Zrinski in 1599, while Count Perlas built its second floor in the 18th century when the town was renovated into a beautiful castle. The oldest part of the entire complex is the so-called Babonić Tower, the main defensive tower. All three wings, the south, the east and the north, are tall two storey buildings. The entrance tower is connected with another, smaller tower by a wooden porch, built after World War I. The two storey tower at the end of the north wing is the main and largest tower of Ozalj Castle, offering a view of Žumberak hills, the vineyards and the calm, emerald green Kupa River. Arched passages, a dungeon, the Frankopan coat of arms carved in stone, the remains of a stone fence of an abandoned well, with the year 1450 carved into it… All of these are the legacy of centuries of honourable rule by the Ozalj landlords. However, the most prominent structure is the massive old building, the Zrinski Palace, leaning against a mighty rock which now has a railway tunnel passing through its base. Today the building is detached from the other structures, but creases in the wall reveal that it was once connected with the main tower by a wooden porch. Above the late gothic door is the carved inscription NICO ZR1566 (Nicolaus Comes Zriniensis, Nikola Count Zrinski). The castle walls were painted with biblical motifs, quite unusual for secular buildings of the time. The roof was once covered with rye straw, but it collapsed under the weight of snow in the early 1950s and had to be reconstructed. Nowadays, it is difficult to walk through the renovated castle without thinking about the life that once took place within its walls. This was the location of the wedding of Petar Zrinski and Katarina Frankopanska, which was attended by representatives of the Viennese court, the Republic of Venice, various noblemen, but also ordinary citizens, even free peasants. It is not difficult to imagine the dainty, good-looking Fran Krsto standing on these paths, indoor gardens and pretty terraces, getting to know the tulips, narcissus, hyacinth, pinks, lilies, jasmine, violas, monk’s cress and bellflowers planted closely together, out of which he would someday create his garden. The honourable landlords of Ozalj continuously strived to improve their town, making sure four annual fairs were held there. They

also developed the town into an important marketplace, as well as did other good deeds for their citizens. Both families were high Croatian nobility, and apart from their contribution to defending national territory, construction and economy, they most greatly contributed to Croatian culture. Matoš wrote of them: By celebrating the last Zrinski and the last Frankopan, we do not only celebrate the most wonderful representatives of our people in their time, but we celebrate them as rare people, who were not born a hundred, but hundreds of years too soon... Indeed, with several regional literary circles in 17th century Croatia, the question of a standardized Croatian language emerged. The most prominent writers in the Ozalj literary circle were Petar Zrinski - who translated his brother Nikola’s epic work Adrianskoga mora sirena (A Mermaid of the Adriatic Sea) from Hungarian, his wife, Ana Katarina Zrinska who compiled her prayer book, Putni tovaruš (Co-traveller), in Ozalj, and Fran Krsto Frankopan - her brother, who translated Molière into the Croatian language and wrote poems later compiled in the collection Gartlic za čas kratiti (A garden to Pass Time In). With the help of the Pauline monk and lexicographer, Ivan Belostenec they attempted to create the fairest language, which would encompass all three dialects as an amalgamation of Kajkavian, Chakavian and Shtokavian dialects, with elements of Ikavian and Ekavian pronunciations, in order to make it as understandable as possible in most parts of Croatia. This language standardization effort was abruptly ended by the tragic execution in Wiener Neustadt. Had the circumstances been even slightly different, had France and Venice been dependable allies or Viennese rule less absolutist, Croatian history might have been entirely different and so much more fortunate. However, after the failure of the conspiracy and the execution of the conspirators, the king ordered the family’s properties to be seized. The looters of Ozalj then grabbed hold of the incredible riches; it has been written that they even took the locks off the doors and the glass from the windows. The rich and proud town of Ozalj was completely plundered. After the Zrinski family, the spacious building changed ownership several times. Nowadays, the castle features a heritage museum, a museum within a museum as they say. It consists of exhibits from the times of the Zrinski and Frankopan families, particularly those tied to their cultural activity. Among other things, the museum features a collection of cold weaponry and firearms, prehistoric artefacts, sacral CROATIA AIRLINES

Ozalj surroundings covered with hay, spring on the river… Her own destiny was also tragic. She was deaf and mute at a time when it was practically considered a mental deficiency, but she still managed to finish school and take art lessons, reaching the very top of Croatian painting at the time, reforming it with freshness and honesty, unburdened by academic experience, despite her young age and short life (she died at the age of 29). The Ozalj surroundings nowadays attract with its preserved, natural beauty of a landscape with mountainous and lowland features framed and intertwined with shiny strips of the Dobra and Kupa rivers, hilly like the landscape of Tuscany, lacking only the dark, towering cypress trees. These beauties were discovered a long time ago, however. Standing witness to this are numerous other castles built by noblemen in the surrounding area. Among them are Gornje Pokuplje, Jaškovo, Hrašće, Ribnik, Pribić, and the completely demolished Brlog-grad. There are also countless hidden swimming spots, dark and deep forests with clearings where rabbits and deer can be encountered, caves such as the beautiful Vrlovka in Kamanje, vineyards where local wines can be tasted - such as the 30 kilometre long Vivodina wine road.

Ozaljski kraj danas privlači svojim ljepotama i očuvanošću prirode u krajoliku u kojem se miješaju i planinske i nizinske osobine - uokviren i ispresijecan blistavim vrpcama rijeka Dobre i Kupe, brežuljkast poput toskanskog pejzaža u kojem nedostaju tek tamni tornjevi čempresa. The Ozalj surroundings nowadays attract with its preserved, natural beauty of a landscape with mountainous and lowland features - framed and intertwined with shiny strips of the Dobra and Kupa rivers, hilly like the landscape of Tuscany, lacking only the dark, towering cypress trees. and religious exhibits, but also paintings by the greatest Croatian aquarellist, Slava Raškaj, dating back to the late 19 th and early 20 th centuries. Having grown up in Ozalj, on the banks of the green Kupa River, her frequent motifs were the old town, the river and its waterfalls. With gentle and calm pallets, often painting in white - leaving parts of the surface unpainted, she created numerous landscapes of her home, painting bravely in the open from beginning until end. She had the superlative knack of capturing the melancholy winter light over the town white with snow. Equally famous are her water lilies, which reflect the influence secession had on her painting, but also her pastels - a technique reserved for portraits. Her motifs were the mysterious ancient town of Ozalj, the old mill, peasant homes in the 70

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Picturesque hiking paths, surrounded by hilly fields of flowers, at Vodenica and Gera, featuring the legend of the Bloody Stone, still built into the walls of the Chapel of St. Gera, are among the most popular hiking destinations. There is also the ethnologically particularly interesting medieval habitat of Trg, which was first mentioned back in 1329. The habitat of extraordinary history and distinctive customs, almost completely surrounded by the river, still features old single storey houses made from oak beams, connected with hrvaški vugl (Croatian corner) and covered with škop (rye straw). It is where trška jalba, a laced cap worn by local married women, is made. The caps are weaved in the so-called Egyptian style, by lacing horizontal threads onto the vertical warp strung on an arched frame.

Interestingly, because of the custom that only married women could wear such a cap, the best cap maker, unmarried Regina Paljunac, who made numerous caps and earned a living from it, was never allowed to wear one. On the way towards Trg, not far from the centre of Ozalj, is the location of the Ethno Park - part of the Ethnographic Department of the Ozalj Heritage Museum. Along the Kupa River, you will surely come across another structure that also very much resembles a medieval castle, built from stone, with all of those towers, crowns, arcades and ceilings that make a castle look like it belongs in a magical fairy tale. Only once you get closer does it become clear that it is one of the most beautiful examples of industrial architecture in Croatia - the Ozalj I hydroelectric power plant, locally known as munjara, built in just a year and a half during the early 20th century according to drawings by Herman Bollé. To this day, much like a hundred years ago, the power plant produces electricity, clocking in its usual five thousand hours per year. In nearby Svetice there is a wonderful church with the remains of a huge Pauline monastery and well preserved, particularly beautiful, artistically carved benches and kneelers in late renaissance and early baroque style, with an ornate main altar, seven side altars and an organ. The historic and cultural heritage of the Ozalj area and its natural beauties, the smell of the forests, the sounds of the rivers and colours of the earth are a guarantee you will never forget this area, even if you do not drink a single drop from the slow Curak spring, which originates beneath the proud and defiant castle of the Zrinski and Frankopan families. 

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KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA INLAND CROATIA

Vila Fairy

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THE MAGICAL CROWD OF PODRAVINA Piπe/By Danijela Križanec-Beganović

Fotografije/Photos Iva Lulić

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Vila A fairy

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Vjerovanja u nadnaravna biÊa, vile i vilovnjake, coprnice, more, divlje dekle, vede, mrake i mrakulje, zauzimaju vaæno mjesto u tradicijskoj kulturi, a trendovi modernog druπtva pokazuju kako su te teme danas veoma dobro prihvaÊene i popularne u cijelom svijetu. Izloæbom u zagrebačkome Etnografskome muzeju razmotrila se transformacija nekih nadnaravnih likova koji procesima osuvremenjavanja i globalizacije bivaju izvuËeni iz tradicijske kulture i poËinju æivjeti u popularnoj kulturi.

Belief in supernatural creatures, fairies and elves, witches, mares, wild girls, vede, mraki and mrakulje, etc., has an important place in traditional culture, and the trends of modern society show that these topics are today very well accepted and popular the world over. The exhibition in the Zagreb Etnographic Museum treats the transformation of some supernatural beings which the processes of modernisation and globalisation have derived from traditional culture and which have begun to live in popular culture. Autorica izložbe i kataloga: Danijela Križanec-Beganović, kustosica muzeja Author of the exhibition and the catalogue: Danijela Križanec-Beganović, museum curator

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Vodenjak Vodenjak (a water spirit)

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Posvečkari

Vrag The devil

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Demonska coprnica Demonic witch

Vila Fairy CROATIA AIRLINES

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Svećenik Svećenik (priest) CROATIA AIRLINES

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Vilinsko kolo Fairy-ring CROATIA AIRLINES

Uronite u svijet coprnica, vila i drugih bića na izložbi Etnografskog muzeja u Zagrebu Čarobna družba - vjerovanja u nadnaravna bića u Podravini, koja je otvorena od 12. prosinca 2015. i traje do 31. svibnja 2016. Immerse yourself in the world of witches, fairies and other creatures at the Magical Crowd - Beliefs in Supernatural Beings in Podravina exhibition at the Ethnografhic Museum in Zagreb, from 12 December 2015 until 31 March 2016

Divlja dekla Wild girl

ojam vjeπtica budi brojne asocijacije, a motivi vezani uza nj raznorodni su, katkad i proturjeËni. U Podravini naziv za vjeπticu jest coprn(j)ica, njima su uglavnom smatrane æene iz susjedstva, a elemenata koji je povezuju s demonskom dimenzijom vjerovanja ima tek u tragovima. To su uglavnom æene, ali i muπkarci su mogli biti coprnjaci. Tko je coprnica? To je stvarna osoba koja namjerno Ëini zlo susjedu. Otima dobra - mlijeko, jaja i sl., ali i baca uroke ili Ëini drugu πtetu svojim coprniËkim aktivnostima, po čemu su 84

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vidljivi motivi tenzija meu susjedima i socijalni aspekt vezan uz coprnice. Uglavnom odskaËu od prosjeka, mogu biti osobito lijepe, ali ËeπÊe je posrijedi ruæan, neugodan ili poseban izgled pa se spominju stare, mrπave æene, velikog nosa, bez zuba, sraπtenih obrva, s nekakvom manom i sl. Odaje je i to πto ima mnogo mlijeka u odnosu na broj krava, πto postiæe copranjem. ©teti na razliËite naËine, pa je poznato i da moæe pπenicu onečistiti garom, donijeti tuËu, mraz ili poæar. Najopasnije je djelovanje koje

se odnosi na zdravlje ljudi i stoke, a moæe imati i smrtne posljedice. NaËini zaπtite od coprnice uglavnom se prenose usmenom predajom. U prvom redu to se Ëinilo preventivnim djelovanjem koje ukljuËuje obredne radnje, kao npr. prevoenje stoke preko ugljevlja ili kiÊenje ograda i staja biljem koje πtiti od zlih sila. Uz to koristili su se amuleti i nakit s ulogom apotropeja te zapisi sa zaπtitnim tekstovima. Ako je bolest nastala magijskim djelovanjem, za pomoÊ se obraÊalo gatarima ili vraËima koji

su znali postupke za otklanjanje problema, od prelevanja vuglenaca, spaljivanja podmetnutih predmeta poput kose, noktiju, konca, izrade Ëajeva i masti, gatanja, pa sve do osobnih obraËuna s coprnicama. O demonskim vjeπticama pripovijeda se u mnoæini. SreÊe ih se u grupi na osamljenim mjestima poput raskrπÊa ili groblja, osim kada zbog svog djelovanja prodiru u prostor ljudi. Mogle su letjeti na metli, Ëiniti svakakva zla, a za let su se mazale posebnom maπÊu uz izgovaranje magijskih formula. PriËe o vilama i danas su poznate, uz coprnice i more, pripadaju u najprepoznatljivija biÊa tradicijskih vjerovanja. Æive u prirodi, na mjestima udaljenima od ljudi: u πumi, na planini, kraj vode i u vodi, u moËvari itd. Njihovi opisi priliËno su ujednaËeni, bez mnogo odstupanja od opÊe predodæbe. To su mlade, vitke djevojke osobite ljepote, duge plave kose, odjevene u bijelo. Spominje se da su na glavi imale vijenac od bilja, u kojemu je počivala njihova snaga, a ponekad je njihova ljepota umanjena time πto im kosa zaudara ili πto imaju æivotinjske noge. Zabiljeæeno je da mogu imati krila, ali da postoje i one koje æive u vodi te su pola djevojke, a pola ribe. Vjerovalo se da se raaju poput ljudi, ali mogu ukrasti i zadojiti ljudsko dijete koje postaje vila. Poznate su i priËe o otmicama muπkaraca koji se vraÊaju nijemi. Priroda je vila ambivalentna, mogu biti dobre, ali i opasne ili zle ako im se ne pogoduje. Ipak su uglavnom dobre pa pomaæu ljudima uËeÊi ih koriπtenju ljekovitih trava i drugim vjeπtinama. Zadojiti mogu one kojima su sklone ili darom predvianja buduÊnosti. Ako se nagazi na vilinsko kolo, ako se priËa o vlastitim iskustvima s njima i sl., mogu uËiniti Ëovjeka bolesnim, mentalno rastrojenim, odvuÊi ga pod vodu itd. Ponekad iz Ëiste obijesti Ëine sitne pakosti kao πto je kraa konja koji su ujutro znojni, a griva i rep u sitnim pletenicama. Mogu utjecati na vremenske prilike donoseÊi i odnoseÊi vjetar, olujne oblake, tuËu. Kako ljudi postaju loπiji, a svijet sve buËniji, vile se povlaËe dalje od ljudi. Mora je æensko biÊe koje noÊu napada ljude i guπi ih dok spavaju. To je najËeπÊe stvarna osoba Ëiji duh noÊu izlazi iz tijela. Osobito su joj podloæna djeca, mlade æene te mladunËad æivotinja. Morin duh moæe poprimiti obliËje nokturalne æivotinje poput maËke ili noÊnog leptira i sl. U postojanje more ljudi su najsigurniji te podaci biljeæe mnogo izjava o iskustavima vezanima uz pohode te noÊne gnjavatorice. Suenice su æenska biÊa koja dolaze poslije djetetova roenja kako bi mu odredile sudbinu. »esto se spominju u tradicijskim priËama, a sliËne predodæbe poznate su mnogim

Vila Fairy

Travarica Potion maker

Potopljenik Drowning man CROATIA AIRLINES

narodima. Njihov broj varira, ali najËeπÊe ih opisuju kao tri æene odjevene u bijelo. Kada uu u kuÊu, smjeπtaju se kod ognjiπta ili vrata te govore uglas kako se ne bi znalo koja je πto odredila djetetu. Dræalo se kako su pomalo maliciozne pa im se ne valja zamjeriti. Dijete se nastojalo zaπtititi i crvenim koncem oko ruËice ili krunicom ispod jastuka. Vedi su biÊa koja su πtitila ljude i pomagala im, a o njima se danas malo zna. Vezuju ih uza πume kojih je nekada bilo mnogo. Ti gorostasni stvorovi tijela prekrivenoga dlakom bili su snaæni, snagom daha mogli su podiÊi oluju. Bili su glasni pa ih se nadaleko Ëulo kada su pjevali. Uz dobre, bilo je i zlih πumskih veda koji su izbjegavali ljude. Dobri su vedi pomagali ljudima, svaka kuÊa imala je svog veda koji je iz privræenosti znao napakostiti drugoj kuÊi ili njezinom vedu. Duplieri ili posveËkari nazivi su za malene plamiËke koji su se pojavljivali lebdeÊi iznad tla. PriËalo se da su to duπice koje idu i svetle si, a ljudi su ih se bojali. Nisu bili opasni, a poznate su πaljive priËe o susretima s njima. Pojavu svjetla na poljima povezuje se i s duπama inæenjera koji nisu poπteno mjerili mee. Poznati su pod imenom inulijeri ili krivomjeri. Viani su na poljima i livadama odjeveni u odijela, teπke cipele i koæne dokoljenice, s torbama, zemljiπnim kartama i mjerniËkim lancima. Prate ih seljaci s lampaπima i meaπnjim kamenom oko kojega se svaaju. Divlje ili πumske dekle povezane su s dubokim πumama gdje borave i kriju se od ljudi. To su æene niæe od obiËnih, tijela prekrivenog dlakom. OdjeÊu nisu nosile, a golotinju su skrivale dugom kosom. Ruke su im duæe, a bile su i brze. Nisu govorile, ali moglo se Ëuti kako se dozivaju krikovima. Ne pripisuju im se nadnaravne moÊi, a prema ljudima nisu bile zle. Glad i hladnoÊa katkad su ih istjerali iz πuma te su se zavlaËile u sjenike. DomaÊice su im ostavljale hranu, za πto bi se one oduæile npr. donoseÊi drva. Za gloana svatko u Podravini zna, prijetnje njime usjekle su se u sjeÊanje generacija djece. Buka na tavanu, mraËni kutci, πkripa vrata sluæili su odraslima da zaplaπe djecu, jer ondje se krije gloan koji Êe ih ugrabiti dugim dlakavim rukama s velikim noktima i velikim zubima. Golem je bio strah ljudi od mraka i noÊi, a osobito se opasnim smatralo gluho doba noÊi, kada su se dogaale mnoge loπe stvari. Jedno od opasnih demonskih biÊa jest mrak ili mrakulja, amorfna gorostasna pojava koja se pojavljuje sama ili u grupi. Moæe uzeti oblik neke æivotinje, a i ljudsko obliËje odraslog muπkarca sa πeπirom, koji ostavlja modrice na svojim ærtvama. 86

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Vukodlaci su ljudi koji se nakon smrti vraÊaju meu æive da bi Ëinili zlo. O tradicijskom aspektu biÊa sugovornici znaju malo te najËeπÊe govore o suvremenim predodæbama preuzetim iz popularne kulture. Prikazivali su se u raznim oblicima, no najËeπÊe u ljudskom: u liku dotjeranoga gospodina koji ne uspijeva sakriti svoje zube i Ëambe, ili u liku divljega πumskog Ëovjeka zaraπtenoga i kak da ima medvee krzno. Opisuje se i kao bezobliËna mjeπina, a moæe se pojaviti i u obliku æivotinje. Vukodlakom postaje Ëovjek koji je tijekom æivota bio zao ili veliki greπnik. PovukodlaËiti se moæe pokojnik kojega preskoËi ili naËne æivotinja, stoga je bilo vaæno da ga se Ëuva. To se moæe postati i roenjem - ako je majka od nekoga prokleta ili ima dijete sa zvijeri. Govorilo se da se noÊu diæu iz groba noseÊi svoj mrtvaËki pokrov. Kada napadaju, bacaju praπinu u oËi, pregrizu grkljan i siπu krv. Kako se pokojnik ne bi vukodlaËio, poduzimale su se razliËite radnje, a najËeπÊe mu se zarezivala koæa. Rabila su se i razna sredstva za zaπtitu, u prvom redu blagoslovljena voda, kriæ i krunica, ali i vatra, svijeÊa ili baterijska svjetiljka. Ponekad je ipak vukodlaka valjalo ubiti te su probijali grob glogovim kolcem. Vrag, avao ili sotona πiroko su rasprostranjeni nazivi tog biÊa, no Ëesto se rabe i zamjenski poput neËastivi ili neËistak. To demonsko biÊe najËeπÊe ima krπÊansko-biblijsku pozadinu. Stariji podaci o vragovima govore u mnoæini, πto upozorava na starije porijeklo vjerovanja. Opisani su kao sliËni ljudima, ali s rogovima, repom i kopitima. SreÊe ih se na putovima, raskrπÊima ili drugim pustim mjestima. Snaæni su i vole se hrvati s Ëovjekom, iako baπ nisu spretni. Lakovjerni su i prostoduπni pa ih je lako prevariti, a vole zbijati πale. Boje se kriæa, blagoslovljene vode i krunice, a ljude odvraÊaju od vjere skupljajuÊi duπe za pakao. Zabiljeæeno je i vjerovanje u razne demonËiÊe koji se pojavljaju u liku djeËaka. U Podravini je taj vraæiËak znan kao mali. Nekad je to demon, nekad izgubljena duπa, a nekad se izlijeæe iz jajeta crnog pijetla ili kokoπi. Visine je djeËaka od 5 do 7 godina, ali lica Ëetrdesetogodiπnjaka. Podravina je bogata vodom. Uz brojne potoke, tu je i moÊna Drava, pa ne Ëudi postojanje vjerovanja u biÊa koja ljudima prijete iz vode. Za smrti utapanjem okrivljavao se vodenjak koji neopreznog kupaËa povlaËi na dno. Pojavljuje se u razliËitim likovima. Izvan vode odjeven je u zeleno gospodsko odijelo, sa πtapom u ruci, kojim izvodi Ëarolije. U vodi je nag, zelene boje i obrastao dugim dlakama. Poznato je i vjerovanje u potopljenika, koji je u vodi identiËan opisanom vodenjaku, a izvan nje pojavljuje se u liku djeËaËiÊa odjevenog u zeleno. Zabiljeæeno je vjerovanje u biÊe nazva-

no dravski ftoplenik ili neman, koje u podne hvata djevojke u polju i odvlaËi sa sobom. Ljudskoga je lika, ali nema koæu, nego je od πiblja i granja. Suvremene predodæbe o zmajevima proæete su utjecajem konzumerizma i globalizacije, koje nisu mimoiπle ni to biÊe pa podaci ne donose mnogo od tradicijskih vjerovanja. Percepcija tog biÊa obiljeæena je priËama i opisima iz sfere krπÊanske kozmologije. Stoga nije lako rekonstruirati kako je to biÊe zamiπljano u sklopu tradicijskih vjerovanja, ali moæe se ustvrditi kako su ona slojevita. Zmaj je izvorno mitska fantastiËna æivotinja koja se pojavljuje u brojnim bajkama, kao krπÊanska inkarnacija vraga, te u ulozi zmaja zaπtitnika ljudi ili zajednice. U Podravini zmajevi su opisani kao velika biÊa s viπe glava iz kojih rigaju vatru, kao velika zmija s nogama, ili kao veliki guπter koji æivi u praπumama ili moËvarama. Pripovijeda se o gotovo zaboravljenom obiËaju napajanja zmaja - izlijevanja sirutke u rupe u zemlji. 

he term witch brings to mind many associations, and the motives related to it are diverse and sometimes contradictory. The name for a witch in Podravina is coprn(j)ica, who are mostly held to be women from the neighbourhood, and the elements which associate it with the demonic dimension of belief are present only in traces. Though witches were prevalently women, there also existed men witches - coprnjaci. Who is a witch? It is a real person who intentionally does wicked things to a neighbour. They steal the neighbour’s goods - milk, eggs, etc. - but also cast spells or do other damage with their wicked activities, from which the motives of tension between neighbours and the social aspect associated with witches is evident. They are mostly extraordinary women and can be particularly beautiful. However, their appearance is ugly, awkward or specific more often than not, so there is mention of old, skinny women with large noses, toothless, with eyebrows that have grown together and a defect of some kind, etc. What also gives them away is the fact that they have got a lot of milk in relation to the number of cows they possess, which is something they achieve by copranje (practicing witchcraft). They do harm in different ways, and so it is widely known that they can contaminate wheat with soot, bring about hail, frost or fire. Their most dangerous acts relate to the health of people and animals, and can have fatal consequences. The ways of protection against witches are

mainly transmitted by word of mouth. In the first instance, this was done by preventive actions, including ritual acts, such as driving cattle over coals or decorating fences and stables with vegetation that protects against evil forces. In addition, apotropaic amulets and jewellery, as well as protective text inscriptions, were used. If a given disease was caused by an act of magic, diviners or sorcerers were asked for help, who knew procedures for dealing with such problems, ranging from prelevanje vuglenaca, burning planted items such as hair, nails or thread, making teas and ointments, and divination to taking on witches personally. Demonic witches are narrated about in the plural. They are encountered in groups at isolated locations, such as intersections or cemeteries, except when, due to their actions, they penetrate the space of people. They could fly on a broom, do all kinds of evil, and to be able to fly they would grease themselves with special ointments whilst uttering magical formulas. Stories about fairies are well known even today and they are, along with witches and mares, the most recognisable beings of traditional belief. They live in nature, in places far away from people: in forests, on mountains, near water and in the water, in swamps, etc. Their depictions are fairly uniform without much deviation from a general perception. These are young, slender girls of extraordinary beauty, with long blond hair, dressed in white. There is mention of them being crowned with a wreath of flowers, in which their powers rest, although their beauty was at times diminished by the fact that their hair stank or that they had animal legs. There are records of them having wings, but also that there are those that live in the water and are half-girl half-fish! People believed that they were born the same way that humans are born, but could steal and breastfeed a human child who then becomes a fairy. Stories about the abduction of men who return mute are also widely known. The nature of fairies is ambivalent - they can be good, but also dangerous or evil if not served and accommodated. Nevertheless, they are mostly good and help people by teaching them how to use herbs and other skills. They can breastfeed those who they are inclined towards, and who then become endowed with either a great power or the gift of foreseeing the future. When talking about peopleâ€™s personal experience with fairies and such, if someone steps on a fairiesâ€™ round dance, they can make this someone sick, mentally distracted, drag them underwater, etc. Sometimes, out of sheer wantonness, they become little mischief-

Napajanje zmaja Watering the dragon

Povratak mrtvih The return of the dead

Vodenkinja Female water spirit CROATIA AIRLINES

Šumski ved Forest ved

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makers, and do such things as steal horses that are sweaty in the morning, and plait their manes and tails in tiny plaits. They can affect the weather by making the wind, storm clouds and hail appear and disappear. As people are becoming worse and the world louder, fairies have been retreating from people. Mares are female creatures that attack people at night and suffocate them while they are asleep. They are most often real people whose spirit leaves their body at night. Children, young women and the offspring of animals are particularly susceptible to them. The spirit of a mare can take on the shape of a nocturnal animal, such as a cat or a moth and the like. People are most certain about the existence of mares, and there are records of countless testimonies of people’s experiences with the night raids of these pests. Fates are female creatures that come upon a child’s birth to determine their fate. They are often referred to in traditional stories, and similar figures are well known to many nations. Their numbers vary, although they are most often described as three women dressed in white. When they enter a house, they are stationed either at the fireplace or the door, and speak in one voice so as not to give away which determined what for the child. They were believed to be slightly malicious, so displeasing them was to be avoided. Attempts at protecting children included tying a red thread around their wrist or holding a rosary under their pillow. The vede are beings that protect and help people, and about whom little is known today. They are often associated with the forest, and there once used to be plenty of forests. These giant creatures whose bodies were covered in hair were strong, they could raise a storm with the power of their breath! They were loud and were widely heard whilst singing. Besides the good, there were also evil forest ved who avoided people. The good ved were helping people, each and every house had its ved that would inflict injury on another house or its ved out of loyalty. Duplieri or posveËkari are names for little flickers that used to occur hovering above the ground. It was said that they were little souls lighting their way, which people were afraid of. They were not dangerous, and there are many funny stories involving encounters with them. The appearance of light in the fields is associated with the souls of engineers who were not fair in measuring the boundaries between fields. They are known as inulijeri or krivomjeri. They were seen in the fields and meadows dressed in suits, heavy boots and leather leggings, with bags, maps and CROATIA AIRLINES

Coprnica Witch

land surveying chains. They were followed by farmers holding lanterns and a milestone which they are fighting over. Dekle (wild or forest girls) are associated with deep forests where they dwell and hide from people. These were women lower in height whose bodies were covered in hair. They did not wear clothes and would conceal their nudity with their long hair. Their arms were longer and they were fast. They did not speak, but their cries whilst calling one other could be heard. They were not attributed any supernatural powers, and were not evil towards people. Hunger and the cold were known to dislodge them from the forest and they would take shelter in haylofts. Housewives would leave them food, which they would repay by bringing wood, for example. Everyone in Podravina knows of gloani, threats involving them have been etched in the memory of generations of children. The noise in the attic, dark corners and creaking doors served adults as a way of scaring children, because there hides a gloan that would snatch them with his long hairy arms, with his large nails and big teeth. People’s fear of the dark and the night was deep-seated, and the dead of night, when many bad things would happen, was considered particularly dangerous. One of the dangerous demonic beings was mrak or mrakulja, an amorphous gigantic apparition that would occur either alone or in a group. It could take on the form of an animal, as well as the human form of an adult man with a hat who leaves bruises on his victims. Werewolves are people who, upon dying, return to be amongst the living to do evil. Interlocutors know little about the traditional aspect of these creatures and most often talk about the modern notions of the same 90

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borrowed from popular culture. They were presented in various forms, but most commonly in the human form: in the figure of a spruce gentleman who is unable to hide his teeth and claws, or in the form of a wild forest man whose body is covered in hair as if his skin was that of a bear. He is described as a shapeless skinful, and may also take on the form of an animal. Men who were evil or great sinners during their lives become werewolves. The deceased who were jumped over or bitten into by an animal can also become werewolves, so it was important to watch out the deceased. One could become a werewolf even by birth - if the mother had been cursed by someone or had a child with a beast. It was said that werewolves rise from their graves at night bearing their shroud. Whilst attacking, they are said to throw dust in the eyes, bite the throat and suck blood. Various measures were taken for the deceased not to become a werewolf, which most often included incising the skin of the deceased. Various means of protection were used, first and foremost holy water, a cross and a rosary, but also fire, a candle or a flashlight. However, there were times when werewolves had to be killed, and so their graves had to be pounded into with a hawthorn stake. The devil, Lucifer or Satan are the widespread names of the same creature, although replacements such as the wicked one or the unholy one were also often used. This demonic creature usually comes from a ChristianBiblical background. Older records on devils speak in the plural, which indicates that belief in this creature is older in origin. They are described as similar to humans, but with horns, a tail and hooves. People could see them on roads, intersections or other abandoned

places. They are strong and love to wrestle with people, although they are not dexterous. They are gullible and simple-minded, which means that they are easily fooled and love to make fun. They are afraid of the cross, holy water and rosaries, and turn people away from faith by collecting their souls for hell. There are also records of people’s belief in various little demons that appear in the form of a boy. In Podravina, this little devil is known as mali. Sometimes it is a demon, at times a lost soul, and sometimes it hatches out of the egg of a black rooster or a hen. His height is that of a 5 to 7 year old boy, although his face is that of a forty year old. Podravina is rich in water. Besides numerous streams, there is the powerful Drava River, and so belief in the existence of beings that threaten people from the water is not surprising. Death by drowning was to be blamed on vodenjaci (water spirits) who pull unwary swimmers to the bottom. They appear in various forms and shapes. Outside the water they are dressed in a green gentleman’s suit, holding a stick in their hand with which they perform magic spells. In the water they are naked, green and covered in long hair. There is also the belief in potopljenik (drowning man), who is identical to the said vodenjak whilst in water, while outside the water it appears in the guise of a boy dressed in green. Belief in a being called the drowning man of Drava or monster that catches girls in the field at noon and drags them with him has also been recorded. Its figure is humanlike, but it has no skin and is made of twigs and branches. Today’s ideas about dragons have been imbued with the influence of consumerism and globalisation, which have not bypassed this being either, and so records do not say much about traditional beliefs. The perception of this being is marked by stories and descriptions from the sphere of Christian cosmology. Accordingly, reconstructing the way in which this being was conceived within the framework of traditional beliefs is no easy task. What can be claimed is that they are layered. Originally, dragons were mythical fantastic animals that occur in many fairy tales, as the Christian incarnation of the devil and in the role of a dragon protector of people or the community. In Podravina, dragons are described as huge beings with many heads from which they spit fire, a large legged snake, or a large lizard that lives in the jungle or the swamp. There is also talk of the almost forgotten custom of watering dragons - the spilling of whey in holes in the ground. 

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GASTRONOMIJA GASTRONOMY

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Dva hrvatska proizvoda od svinjskog mesa stekla su status zaπtiÊene europske gastronomske baπtine. Prπut i kulen. I dok prπut svojim specifiËnim okusom odraæava bitne odrednice mediteranskog podruËja, od unutraπnjosti Istre i dalmatinskog zalea do Konavala, kulen je najpoznatija i najsofisticiranija prezentacija prehrambenih potencijala Slavonije i Baranje. Two Croatian pork products have gained the status of trademarked European gastronomic heritage, prosciutto and kulen (spicy pork sausage). While the specific flavour of prosciutto reflects the most prominent aspects of the Mediterranean region, stretching from the Istrian interior and the Dalmatian hinterland all Piπe/By Željko Žutelija

the way to Konavle, kulen is the best known and most sophisticat-

Fotografije/Photos Damir Fabijanić

ed example of the gastronomic potential of Slavonia and Baranja.

va hrvatska proizvoda od svinjskog mesa stekla su status zaπtiÊene europske gastronomske baπtine. I prπut i kulen, a upravo je o tim proizvodima rijeË, sadræavaju bitne znaËajke podneblja odnosno zemljopisnog podrijetla, ali i viπestoljetne tradicije proizvodnje koja se prenosila s generacije na generaciju i neprestanim usavrπavanjem receptura tim mesnim preraevinama osigurala kultni status. I dok prπut svojim specifiËnim okusom odraæava bitne odrednice mediteranskog podruËja, od unutraπnjosti Istre i dalmatinskog zalea do Konavala, kulen je najpoznatija i najsofisticiranija prezentacija prehrambenih potencijala Slavonije i Baranje, kojem u πirokoj paleti mesnih preraevina kontinentalnog dijela Hrvatske pripada sasvim posebno mjesto. I manji i veliki slavonski i baranjski proizvoaËi kulena prepoznali su u njemu goleme træiπne i kulinarske potencijale i proteklih dvadesetak godina proizvodnju uzdignuli na razinu koja mu je osigurala upis u europski Registar zaπtiÊenih oznaka zemljopisnog podrijetla i omoguÊila prodor na træiπta europskih ze94

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malja. U Slavoniji se ËeπÊe upotrebljava naziv kulin, a u Baranji udomaÊio se naziv kulen. Trajna kobasica Kulen je fermentirana trajna kobasica proizvedena od usitnjena svinjskog mesa, zaËinjena mljevenom paprikom, Ëeπnjakom i paprom, nadjevena u svinjsko slijepo crijevo (caekum). Ovalna je oblika potpuno ispunjena smjesom. Teæina gotovog proizvoda iznosi minimalno 0,80 kg. Prilikom usitnjavanja mesa u pripravi nadjeva pazi se na ujednaËenost granulacije od 8 milimetara, a sastojci nadjeva ravnomjerno su rasporeeni i meusobno Ëvrsto povezani. Na presjeku kulena kompaktna izgleda nema πupljina i pukotina. Vanjskim je izgledom od svijetlo do tamnosmee boje, a na presjeku varira od svijetlocrvene do tamnocrvene boje. Prevladava miris po dimu, karakteristiËan za preraevine podvrgnute hladnom dimljenju, a zatim viπemjeseËnom sazrijevanju. Zbog dodatka mljevene paprike blago je pikantan, s karakteristiËnom aromom dimljenog

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fermentiranog mesa nadopunjenog notama Ëeπnjaka i papra. Za proizvodnju kulena upotrebljava se prvorazredno svinjsko meso autohtonih slavonskih svinja, krmaËa ili tovljenih svinja, dobiveno iskoπtavanjem buta i lenog miπiÊa, πto je minimalno 80 posto mesnog dijela smjese, te mesa pleÊke kojeg u ukupnoj masi smije biti najviπe 20 posto. Meso se potpuno oËisti od koæe i potkoænog masnog tkiva, odstrane se svi hrskaviËni dijelovi, veÊe krvne æile, æivci, tetivasti nastavci miπiÊa, mekana unutarnja masnoÊa i ostaci krvavih dijelova. Masnog tkiva u smjesi smije biti najviπe 10 posto. Vrhunski kulen temelji se na koriπtenju samo najkvalitetnijih dijelova posebno uzgojenih svinja, pomno odabrane paprike najviπe kvalitete i prirodnih zaËina. Kulin GaloviÊ Pionir u trasiranju kulenova europskog puta bio je Tomislav GaloviÊ iz Slavonskog Broda koji je joπ 1997. godine, davno prije ulaska Hrvatske u punopravno Ëlanstvo EU, svom premium proizvodu Kulin GaloviÊ osigurao status prvog hrvatskog prehrambenog proizvoda zaπtiÊenog u Europi. GaloviÊ je neprestano unapreivao i poveÊavao proizvodnju, a danas svoj kulin izvozi na zahtjevno englesko træiπte, s velikim izgledima da ga uskoro plasira i na træiπta drugih zapadnoeuropskih zemalja. Od manjih proizvoaËa kulena i kulenovih seka u Baranji je najpoznatije Obiteljsko-poljoprivredno gospodarstvo MatijeviÊ u mjestu Suza. MatijeviÊi su Ëlanovi udruge Baranjski kulen, koja je 2012. dobila certifikat Zaπtite zemljopisnog podrijetla (ZZP). Kulen MatijeviÊ ne sadræava konzervanse ni aditive, a pripravljen je od najkvalitetnijih sastojaka: svinjskog mesa prve kategorije i prirodnih zaËina. Uredbom Europske komisije naziv Baranjski kulen upisan je u rujnu 2015. godine u Registar zaπtiÊenih oznaka izvornosti i zaπtiÊenih oznaka zemljopisnog podrijetla (ZOZP).

baranjskih Hrvata, u kojima je kulen imao istaknuto mjesto. Organizirana obrtniËka proizvodnja trajnih suhomesnatih proizvoda poËela je u Baranji na prijelazu 19. u 20. stoljeÊe, a meu njima posebno se isticao tzv. Panonski kulin, pripravljen po receptu mesara-kobasiËara iz sela Karanac, preteËa danaπnjeg Baranjskog kulena. Osamdesetih godina minulog stoljeÊa u istoËnoj Slavoniji raste zanimanje za proizvodnju kulena, u Ëemu prednjaËi bivπi Poljoprivredno-industrijski kombinat Belje. Organiziraju se kulenijade, natjecanja meu proizvoaËima kulena, a ta vrhunska kontinentalna suhomesnata delicija - uz prπut najpoznatiji suhomesnati proizvod - postaje gotovo obvezatni dio hladnih predjela posluæenih u sveËanim prigodama i na blagdanskim stolovima. Tri desetljeÊa poslije kulen dobiva i visoko priznanje Europske komisije: zaπtiÊenu oznaku zemljopisnog podrijetla, koja danas krasi baranjski kulen i πirom mu otvara vrata europskih træiπta. 

wo Croatian pork products have gained the status of trademarked European gastronomic heritage. The two products, prosciutto and kulen (spicy pork sausage), feature the important aspects

Stogodiπnja tradicija NajveÊi je proizvoaË Baranjskog kulena Belje d.d., Ëlan udruge Baranjski kulen. Tvrtka Belje u proizvodnji se koristi mesom iz strogo kontroliranog uzgoja svinja na vlastitim farmama. Sa zaπtiÊenom oznakom zemljopisnog podrijetla, u suvremenom pakiranju, Baranjski kulen Belje πiroko je dostupan suhomesnati proizvod vrhunske kvalitete. Suvremeni je nastavak tradicionalne baranjske proizvodnje kulena, zabijeæene u zapisima etnologa i pripovjedaËa Nikole Tordinca (1858. - 1888.), koji je potkraj 19. stoljeÊa pisao o obiËajima CROATIA AIRLINES

Dried sausage Kulen is a fermented dried sausage made from minced pork meat, seasoned with ground paprika, garlic and pepper, and stuffed into the pig’s appendix (caecum). It is oval in shape and completely stuffed with filling. The weight of the completed product must be a minimum of 0.80 kg. During the preparation of the meat, special attention is paid to the consistency of the minced granules, which have to be 8 millimetres in diameter, while the seasonings are evenly distributed and tightly bound together. The kulen cutaway profile is compact and has no visible cavities or cracks. On the outside it is light to dark brown, while the inside is dominated by bright red and dark red colours. Smoke is the prevalent aroma, which is characteristic of meat that has been cold smoked and aged for several months. It is

Kulen je dobio i visoko priznanje Europske komisije: zaπtiÊenu oznaku zemljopisnog podrijetla, koja danas krasi baranjski kulen i πirom mu otvara vrata europskih træiπta Kulen has received major recognition from the European Commission: a trademark of geographical indication, which opens the door to European markets. of the climate and their geographic origin, as well as the centuries-old manufacturing tradition passed down from generation to generation, whereas continuous improvement of the recipes ensures a cult status for these two products. While the specific flavour of prosciutto reflects the most prominent aspects of the Mediterranean region, stretching from the Istrian interior and the Dalmatian hinterland all the way to Konavle, kulen is the best known and most sophisticated example of the gastronomic potential of Slavonia and Baranja, and it holds a truly special position in terms of the extensive pallet of meat products from continental Croatia. Small and large manufacturers of kulen in Slavonia and Baranja have recognized its major market and culinary potential. Therefore, over the last twenty years, they have brought production to a level that has ensured its inclusion into the European Register of trademarks of geographical indication, thus enabling its breakthrough on European markets. The term kulen is frequently used in Slavonia, while kulin is a more common term in Baranja. 100

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mildly piquant due to the ground paprika, with a characteristic aroma of smoked fermented meat complemented by garlic and pepper. Pork from autochthonous Slavonian pigs, sows or fattened pigs, specifically the ham and back muscle, which make up a minimum of 80% of the meat content in the mix, and the shoulder, which makes up a maximum of 20% of the meat in the mix, is used in kulen production. The meat is completely cleared of skin and the fat tissue contained underneath the skin, as well as all the cartilage, larger blood vessels, nerves, muscle tendons, soft inner fat and remains of bloody bits. The mix may contain a maximum of 10% fat. Top-class kulen is based on using the best meat from specially bred pigs, selected paprika of the highest quality and natural seasonings. Kulin Galović A pioneer who treaded kulen’s path towards Europe was Tomislav Galović from Slavonski Brod. In 1997, long before Croatia became a full-fledged EU member state, the premium

product of Kulin Galović gained status as the first Croatian food product trademarked in Europe. Galović has been improving and enlarging production, and he nowadays exports his kulin to the demanding English market, with great prospects of also placing it onto the markets of other western European countries. The most renowned smaller manufacturer of kulen and kulenova seka (kulen’s sister) in Baranja is the Matijević Family Farm from the village of Suza. The Matijević family are members of the Baranjski Kulen Association, which won the trademark of geographical indication certificate in 2012. Matijević kulen contains no preservatives or additives, and it is made from the best quality ingredients: first category pork and natural seasonings. In September 2015, a European Commission regulation included Baranjski Kulen (Kulen of Baranja) into the registry of trademarks of geographical indication. A hundred year tradition The leading manufacturer of kulen of Baranja is Belje JSC, a member of the Baranjski Kulen Association. In its kulen-making process, the company Belje uses meat from strictly controlled breeding programs on its own farms. In modern packaging, and with a trademark of geographical indication, the Belje kulen of Baranja is a widely available dried meat product of top quality. It is a contemporary continuation of the traditional kulen manufacturing process in Baranja, noted in the writings of ethnologist and storyteller Nikola Tordinac (1858 - 1888), who wrote about the customs of Croats in Baranja, prominently featuring kulen, in the late 19 th century. Organized artisan production of dried meat products in Baranja began at the turn of the 20th century. The most prominent product was Pannonian kulin, made according to the recipe of a butcher and sausage maker from the village of Karanac, the precursor of modern-day kulen of Baranja. During the 1980s, interest in kulen production was on the rise in Eastern Slavonia, especially at the former Belje agricultural and industrial plant. This was the beginning of various contests amongst kulen manufacturers, and the exquisite, continental dried meat delicacy - by far the most popular dried meat product next to prosciutto, became an essential component of cold appetizers served on festive occasions. Three decades later, kulen has received major recognition from the European Commission: a trademark of geographical indication, which opens the door to European markets. 

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GRAD ZA DOŽIVLJAJE A CITY FOR EXPERIENCES Piπe/By Slobodan Bukvić Fotografije/Photos Tourism Vancouver

Ako je istina da u životu nije toliko važno koliko puta uzdahnemo i izdahnemo, nego koliko nam puta od nečega zastane dah, onda će nam se ovo drugo neminovno dogoditi i u prekrasnom Vancouveru i njegovom atraktivnom prirodnom okružju. Ako možete priuštite si te trenutke. If it is true that it does not matter how many times we inhale and exhale in our lifetimes, but the amount of times we are left breathless, we are guaranteed to experience the latter on a visit to the beautiful city of Vancouver and its attractive natural surroundings. Savour these moments if you can. 104

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ancouver, treći po veličini grad u Kanadi s otprilike dva milijuna stanovnika, već duži niz godina zauzima prvo mjesto među prva tri grada u svijetu po osobitim uvjetima za život kao i po prirodnim ljepotama. Smješten između planina i mora i obdaren umjerenom klimom, pruža poseban doživljaj u svako doba godine, pa stoga i nije čudno što je u posljednjih desetak godina postao svjetski kozmopolitski grad ugodan za život svojim stanovnicima kao i krajnje zanimljiv sve brojnijim posjetiteljima iz cijelog svijeta. Obiluje prekrasnim parkovima, uređenim vrtovima, skladnim i estetskim zgradama, inventivnim trgovima i ulicama, prirodnim plažama i uređenim marinama kao i raznovrsnim i sadržajnim poslovnim, kulturnim i sportskim događanjima tijekom cijele godine. S obzirom na svoje multikulturalno stanovništvo kao i posjetitelje, Vancouver je i očaravajuća oaza gastronomskih specijaliteta iz kojega ni najizbirljiviji gurman i hedonist ne može otići nezadovoljan. Već i prvi kontakt s tim gradom dolaskom u zračnu luku Vancouvera (Vancouver International Aeroport) prezentira njegova prirodna, multikulturalna, poslovna i krajnje kozmopolitska obilježja. U zračnoj luci skladno i nenametljivo uočavaju se prirodne i kulturne osobitosti, kako grada tako i općenito cijele pokrajine, čiji je inače zaštitni i marketinški moto Prekrasna British Columbia (Beautiful BC). Vješto su načinjene vjerne kopije divljih prirodnih potoka i slapova, postavljeni golemi akvariji sa zanimljivim ribama i ostalim kolorističkim morskim svijetom kao i razni simbolični totemi u prirodnim veličinama, koji podsjećaju na bogato indijansko naslijeđe Vancouvera kao i pokrajine British Columbije. Vancouver je relativno novi grad koji je službeno osnovan 1886. godine, a dobio je ime po kapetanu Georgeu Vancouveru, koji je došao na to područje 1872. godine. Ali njegovi starosjedioci bili su Indijanci koji su ovdje živjeli već gotovo prije 6000 do 8000 godina. Bavili su se ulovom lososa i ostalih riba i školjaka, lovom, poljoprivredom, kao i izrađivanjem poznatih indijanskih totema i maski iz cedrovine. Sredina 19. stoljeća također je značajna za razvoj grada kada je zlatna groznica na rijeci Fraser privukla mnogo Amerikanaca, Kineza i Europljana, koji su nakon prolaska zlatne groznice nastavili gradnjom transkontinentalne kanadske pacifičke željeznice (Canadian Pacific Railway) kao i s poslovima u rudnicima, ribarstvu i raznim obrtima. Iz toga razdoblja karakterističan je stari dio Vancouvera pod nazivom Gastown, koji je dobio ime po gostioničaru Gassyju Jacku Deightonu, koji je imao prvi saloon. Sačuvana

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je i obnovljena stara arhitektura uglavnom drvenih zgrada iz tog vemena, kamene ulice i ulične svjetiljke. No ipak najzanimljivija uspomena iz tog razdoblja jest karakteristični i jedini na svijetu sat na paru, osmišljen 1875. godine. Svaki jedan sat na vrhu ulično postavljenog sata izbacuje se para uza zvukove odbrojavanja sati. Druga je zanimljiva povijesna stara jezgra Chinatown, također s arhitektonski zanimljivim starim zgradama iz druge polovice 19. stoljeća, a danas pun tipične živosti kineskih četvrti s mnoštvom ljudi, raznih trgovina i obiljem originalne kineske robe i, dakako, nezaobilaznih raznovrsnih kineskih restorana. Ako se želi u središtu grada opustiti i barem za čas odlutati u daleku prošlost Kine, onda svakako treba posjetiti i Dr. SunYat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, koji slovi kao jedini autentični kineski vrt ikad sagrađen izvan Kine, a potječe iz razdoblja dinastije Ming. Inače zanimljivo je da su kineski doseljenici počeli dolaziti u Vancouver već sredinom 19. stoljeća zbog zlatne groznice i poslije kao radnici prilikom gradnje transkontinentalne željeznice. Na njoj je i poginulo na tisuće Kineza radeći na vrlo teškim i zahtjevnim poslovima pri gradnji te željeznice kroz planinske i nepristupačne predjele British Columbije. Svjetska industrijalizacija u početku 20. stoljeća ni Vancouver nije poštedjela od nezgrapnih tvornica, hangara, ružnih silosa, splavarenja drveta rijekom kao i opće onečišćenosti i prljavštine jednog dijela grada. Ipak, pravodobno prihvaćena ekološka svijest gradskih otaca i građana Vancouvera rezultirala je rušenjem i odstranjivanjem dijela grada. Takva su područja zamijenjena novim prikladnijim sadržajima, koji privlače maštovitošću i originalnošću. Takav je primjer bez sumnje otok Grenville (Grenville Island), posebna turistička atrakcija grada zbog poznate tržnice (Grenville Island Market) koja obiluje raznolikom bogatom ponudom voća i povrća i prehrambenih proizvoda iz cijelog svijeta. Tu su i šarmantno uređene umjetničke galerije, simpatične trgovine rukotvorina, nakita i suvenira kao i razni zabavni sadržaji koji mame svakodnevno mnoštvo posjetitelja, posebice turista. Godišnje 90.000 turista posjeti Grenville Island. Danas Vancouver obiluje tolikim zanimljivostima i sadržajima, koje je gotovo nemoguće sve doživjeti živeći u tome prekrasnom gradu, a još manje prilikom kraćega turističkog posjeta. Ono što mu daje osobit nezaboravni šarm i njegovi su stanovnici, ležerni i opušteni i spremni za pomoć, savjet i dobrodošlicu svakom posjetitelju. Očito taj sklad prirodnih ljepota i arhitektonske i estetske usklađenosti, kao i način života, stvara pozitivnu enegiju i CROATIA AIRLINES

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općeprihvaćeni životni stav i naviku kod njegovog stanovništva. Isto tako u Vancouveru se zapaža da je bavljenje sportom velikog broja stanovništva kao i posjetitelja također jedna od specifičnosti toga grada. Kada vidite u gotovo svako doba dana i tijekom cijele godine toliko ljudi svih generacija kako šeću, vježbaju, džogiraju, bicikliraju, kotrljaju se na koturaljkama, veslaju, plivaju, jedre, igraju tenis, odbojku, squash i što sve ne, pitate se kada oni uopće rade - izuzimajući turiste koje također brzo privuku raznovrsni sportski sadržaji kojima ne mogu odoljeti. S takvom uobičajenom slikom svakodnevnoga sportskog života malo se gradova u svijetu može pohvaliti. Mnogobrojni veličanstveni parkovi i vrtovi (nevjerojatnih 150) u Vancouveru njegovo su bogato tradicionalno naslijeđe i ponos. Među mnogima izdvaja se Stanley park, gotovo u neposrednoj blizini središta grada. Dobio je ime po guverneru Kanade Lordu Stanleyju, koji je 1889., donoseći zakon o njegovom osnivanju, izgovorio poznate riječi: Park neka bude za korištenje i uživanje ljudi svih boja, vjerovanja, i običaja, za sva vremena. Potrebno je nekoliko dana ako se želi uživati u svim čarima tog parka s velikim brojem kulturnih i sportskih sadržaja. Ne bi se trebalo propustiti priliku boravka u Vancouveru te ne posjetiti i Cypress Provincial Park, smješten na zapadnom dijelu Vancouvera, iz kojeg se pruža prekrasni pogled na centar grada i Lyons Gate Bridge. Moderni i kozmopolitski izgled Vancouver je osobito dobio prilikom i nakon održavanja u njemu svjetske izložbe Expo 86. Kao zaštitni znak grada za održavanja te izložbe sagrađen je impozantni i prepoznatljiv u svijetu Canada Place, smješten u luci i sagrađen kao veliki prekooceanski brod kruzer s karakterističnim jarbolima, simbolizirajući pomorsku i nautičku povijest toga grada. Unutarnji dio Canada Placea prepun je elegantnih trgovina, profinjenih restorana i šarmantnih kafića. Luka u Vancouveru inače je najtranzitnija putnička luka u Kanadi, odakle godišnje odlazi više od 500.000 putnika na zanimljiva višetjedna putovanje poput Aljaske, Havaja i drugih odredišta s godišnje više nego 220 velkih luksuznih brodova kruzera. Već i promatranje dolaska, boravka i odlaska tih brodova iz luke Vancouvera neopisiv je doživljaj koji pobuđuje maštu. Jednako tako vrlo je dojmljivo u neposrednoj blizini Canada Placea i središta grada promatranje gotovo uzastopnog uzlijetanja i spuštanja manjih hidroaviona koji povezuju Vancouver s 14 obližnjih turističkih lokacija poput otoka i gradova Victoria, Nanaimo, Comox, Gulf Islands i drugih. 114

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Ono što pridonosi kvaliteti života u Vancouveru bez sumnje je i fantastična prometna povezanost, kako u sklopu grada, tako i s bližom okolicom. To što u središtu Vancouvera živi oko 500.000 stanovnika, a tijekom svakoga radnog dana tu se nađe i više od 1,500.000 osoba, govori o savršenoj koordiniranoj gradskoj i međugradskoj prometnoj infrastrukturi koju tvore autobusi, električni autobusi, morski autobusi (SeaBus), nadzemni vlakovi (SkyTrain), vlakovi, automobili i sve prisutniji bicikli.Sve to ostavlja dojam savršene organizacije i nepostojanja bilo kakvoga značajnijeg prometnog kaosa tpičnog za mnoge velike gradove u svijetu. U prilog odgovarajuće povezanosti grada ide i nekoliko mostova koji povezuju središte Vancouvera sa zapadnim i sjevernim dijelom grada, a među njima svakako treba istaknuti prekrasni Lions Gate Bridge koji je sagrađen 1937. godine i slovio je kao najveći viseći most na svijetu. Osobito je atraktivan noću kada je osvijetljen tisućama žarulja. Od nekih zanimljivosti koje nipošto ne bi trebalo propustiti u Vancouveru jesu posjeti Vancouver Art Gallery s umjetničkim djelima kanadskih i svjetskih majstora, zatim zanimljivo arhitektonsko rješenje suda u Vancouveru (TheGraet Hall of the Vancouver Law Courts), najveći akvarij u Kanadi i općenito jedan od najvećih akvarija u svijetu (The Vancouver Aqarium) koji ima više od 8000 morskih primjeraka od najmanjih do najvećih, uključujući i kitove. Godišnje taj akvarij posjeti više nego 800.000 posjetitelja. Nadalje, zanimljivo je posjetiti i Science World Center koji, osim tehnološeke, znanstvene i umjetničke izložbe, ima i omnimax kinodvorane s vrlo zanimljivim i sadržajnim prezentacijama tijekom cijele godine. Za detaljnije razgledavanje Vancouvera dobro će poslužiti web stranica: www.vancouverattractions.com Valja preporučiti da se pogleda drugo najveće sveučilište Kanade, University of British Columbia (UBC), koje godišnje pohađa više od 100.000 studenata. Zanimjiv je i impozantni Planetarium kao i Javna knjižnica. Dakako, i ljubitelji i ovisnici shoppinga neće se osjetiti nimalo zanemareni u Vancouveru. Za to su idealne glavne ulice u središtu, Robson Street, West Georgia Street, West Hasting Street i mnoge druge. Svakako pravi šopingeri lako će se snaći, a za one temeljitije dobro će poslužiti i web stranice www.bcchoppingguide.com kao i www.robsonstreet.ca. Vancouver ima i prekrasne turističke atrakcije u neposrednoj blizini, pa bi bilo zaista šteta ne posjetiti ih prilikom boravka. Jedna je od takvih i posjet panoramskoj vožnji bilo autobusom, brodom, morskim CROATIA AIRLINES

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busom (SeaBus) ili nadzemnom željeznicom (SkyTrain). Za više informacija: web stranice www.translink.bc.ca ; www.boatcruises.com Ne bi trebalo propustiti ni jedinstven doživljaj promatranja kitova, bilo pokraj otoka Victoria ili na nekoj drugoj lokaciji u neposrednoj blizini Vancouvera. To je uvijek fascinantno i uzbuđujuće, vrijedno i vremena i novca. Jedna od najstarijih turističkih atrakcija u neposrednoj blizini Vancouvera jest i park Capilano s najstarijim visećim mostom na svijetu. To je ujedno i najuži i najviši viseći most na svijetu podignut 1889. iznad rijeke Capilano i okružen gotovo prašumom cedra. Idealno je to mjesto za opuštanje nakon razgledavanja grada i shoppinga. S obzirom na to da je Vancouver bio domaćin Olimpijskih zimskih igara u početku 2010. godine, svakako se ne bi trebalo zaobići ni Whistler, gdje su se pretežno odvijale najvažnije natjecateljske discipline Olimpijskih zimskih igara. To je i inače, bez obzira na održavanje Olimpijskih igara, vrlo simpatičan grad i u svako doba godine idealan za uživanje i rekreaciju. Romantično malo mjesto s mnogobrojnim sportskim i kulturnim sadržajima ispunit će očekivanja svakog ljubitelja prirode i alpskih aktivnosti. Ako je istina da u životu nije toliko važno koliko puta uzdahnemo i izdahnemo, nego koliko nam puta od nečega zastane dah, onda će nam se ovo drugo neminovno dogoditi i u prekrasnom Vancouveru i njegovom atraktivnom prirodnom okružju. Ako možete - priuštite si te trenutke. To se ne zaboravlja! Naravno poželjno je udvoje! Vancouver vas spreman dočekuje, očekuje i nadahnjuje! 

or many years now, with its 2 million people, the third largest city in Canada - Vancouver, has been among the top three cities in the world in terms of living conditions and its natural beauties. Located between the mountains and the sea, and featuring a mild climate, it guarantees for a special experience at all times of the year, so it is not surprising that it has become a global cosmopolitan city over the last ten years, offering a pleasant life to its citizens and numerous points of interests for visitors from all over the world. The city is abundant with beautiful parks and gardens, aesthetically uniform buildings, inventive squares and streets, beaches and marinas, as well as diverse business, cultural and sporting events throughout the year. With its multicultural population and visitors, Vancouver is an enchanting oasis of gastronomic specialties, where even the pickiest gourmets and hedonists will not be displeased. 116

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The first contact with the city, upon arrival at Vancouver International Airport, gives insight into its natural, multicultural, business and very cosmopolitan features. Already at the airport, one can notice the harmonious, yet inconspicuous natural and cultural features of the city and the entire region whose motto is Beautiful BC. There are very lifelike models of wild streams and waterfalls, huge aquariums with interesting looking fish and other colourful marine species, as well as various symbolic life-size totems, which remind of the rich Indian heritage of Vancouver and all of British Columbia. Vancouver is a relatively new city, officially founded in 1886, and it was named after Captain George Vancouver, who arrived in the area in 1872. However, its natives were the Indians who lived here almost 6000 to 8000 years ago. They made their living by catching salmon and other fish as well as shells, by hunting, farming and manufacturing the renowned Indian totems and cedar masks. The middle of the 19th century is also significant for the cityâ€™s development, when the gold rush on the Fraser River attracted numerous Americans, Chinese and Europeans. After the gold rush passed, they stayed behind to build the transcontinental Canadian Pacific Railway and take on work in mines, the fishing industry and various trades. Characteristic of that period is the old part of Vancouver called Gastown, named after Gassy Jack Deighton, the owner of the first local saloon. The old architecture of mostly wooden period buildings, stone streets and street lamps have been preserved and restored. However, the most interesting memento from the period is the characteristic steam clock constructed in 1875, the only one of its kind in the world. Every hour, the street clock releases steam with the sound of clocking the hours. Another interesting historic part of the city is Chinatown, featuring architecturally interesting old structures dating from the second half of the 19th century. Nowadays, it is recognizable for its liveliness, typical of densely inhabited Chinese quarters, its various shops with an abundance of original Chinese goods and, of course, the unavoidable Chinese restaurants of all sorts. If you wish to relax in the city centre or wander off to ancient China for a moment, you should definitely visit the Dr. SunYat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden - renowned as the only authentic Chinese garden outside of China, dating from the Ming Dynasty period. Interestingly, because of the gold rush, the Chinese migrants started arriving in VancouCROATIA AIRLINES

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MIJENJAMO LICE VIDEO PROJEKTORA Modeli EH-TW6600 i EH-TW6600W nude dodatne značajke koje obično nalazimo na najskupljim uređajima, poput okomitog i vodoravnog pomaka objektiva te velikog raspona zooma za jednostavno postavljanje projektora i tako daju novo značenje pojmu povoljnog kućnog kina. Vaši omiljeni sadržaji dobivaju novi smisao uz zapanjujuće jasnu sliku, superiornu razlučivost 1080p Full HD, visok omjer kontrasta i poboljšanu funkciju Super Resolution u 2D i 3D načinu. Više informacija: www.epson.hr

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1. Studiju za razdoblje od 2001. do 2012. proveo je Future Source Consulting Limited 2. U usporedbi s DLP projektorima s jednim čipom za kućnu zabavu. Epsonovi projektori od 720p daju tri puta svjetliju sliku, a Epsonovi 1080p projektori su dva do tri puta svjetliji. Temeljem podataka NPD za razdoblje od 07/2011. do 06/2012. CLO izmjeren u skladu s IDMS 15.4, može varirati zbog uvjeta uporabe. Više: www.epson.hr/CLO

ver sometime in the mid-19 th century, only to stay on as workers on the construction of the transcontinental railway. Thousands of Chinese died doing the very difficult and demanding jobs of constructing the railway through the inaccessible mountainous areas of British Columbia. Global industrialization in the early 20th century has not spared Vancouver of large factories, hangars, ugly silos, river log driving and general pollution and filth in part of the city. However, the city government and citizens developed an ecologic consciousness in the right moment, so that part of the city was demolished and replaced with new, more appropriate features that attract with their imaginativeness and originality. One such example is undoubtedly Greenville Island and its renowned Greenville Island Market, featuring a diverse offer of fruit, vegetables and other food from all over the world, which makes it one of the most popular tourist attractions in Vancouver. There are also charming art galleries, stores selling handicrafts, jewellery and souvenirs, as well as diverse entertainment facilities, which attract numerous visitors, especially tourists, on a daily basis. Greenville Island is visited by 90,000 tourists annually. 118

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Nowadays, Vancouver boasts so many features that it is almost impossible to experience them all living in this beautiful city, let alone during a short tourist visit. What gives it a special, unforgettable charm are its citizens, who are casual and relaxed, always ready to lend a hand, offer advice and a welcome to every visitor. Clearly, the harmony of natural beauties and architectural and aesthetic uniformity, as well as the way of life itself, generate positive energy, and they are a generally accepted lifestyle and habit among the locals. Also, it is apparent that indulging in recreational sporting activities is one of the main pastime activities for the citizens and visitors of Vancouver. When you see so many people of all generations walking, exercising, jogging, cycling, roller-skating, rowing, swimming, sailing, playing tennis, volleyball, squash and whatnot, every day all year round, it makes you wonder whether they ever work. This does not include tourists, however, who cannot resist and are also quickly drawn to the various sporting opportunities in the city. Not many cities in the world boast such an image of a sporty lifestyle on a daily basis. The numerous magnificent parks and gardens, a total of 150 of them, are Vancouver’s

traditional heritage and pride. One of them is Stanley Park, in the vicinity of downtown Vancouver, named after the governor of Canada, Lord Stanley, who announced its foundation in 1889 with the famous words: May the park be to the use and enjoyment for people of all colours, creeds and customs for all time. It takes several days to fully experience and enjoy this park, which features numerous cultural and sporting facilities. While visiting Vancouver, one should not miss the opportunity to also visit the Cypress Provincial Park, located in the western part of Vancouver, from which there is a beautiful view of downtown and the Lions Gate Bridge. Vancouver gained most of its modern, cosmopolitan look during and after the Expo 86 World Fair, which it hosted. The impressive and recognizable Canada Place building, located in the harbour and designed to look like a large ocean cruiser with characteristic masts, symbolising the maritime and nautical history of the city, was constructed during the Expo as a major landmark. The interior of Canada Place consists of elegant stores, fine restaurants and charming bars. Vancouver Harbour is the busiest passenger harbour in Canada with more than 500,000

passengers who embark on interesting cruises to Alaska, Hawaii and other destinations aboard 220 luxurious cruise ships every year. Just watching the arrival and departure of these ships to and from Vancouver Harbour is an unforgettable experience which lets oneâ€™s imagination run loose. In the vicinity of Canada Place and downtown, small hydro-planes that connect Vancouver with 14 nearby tourist locations, including the islands and towns of Victoria, Nanaimo, Comox, Gulf Islands and others, take off and land almost constantly. What greatly contributes to the quality of life in Vancouver is undoubtedly the fantastic traffic infrastructure within the city limits as well as its surroundings. The fact that downtown Vancouver is home to approximately 500,000 people, while more than 1.5 million people work here on a daily basis, means that the city and intercity traffic infrastructure consisting of busses, electric busses, SeaBusses, SkyTrains, trains, cars and increasingly popular bicycles, is perfectly coordinated. All of this leaves the impression of perfect organization and a lack of any sort of significant traffic chaos typical of many large cities around the world. Contributing to this are several bridges, CROATIA AIRLINES

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which connect downtown Vancouver with the western and northern parts of the city, including the beautiful Lions Gate Bridge, constructed in 1937 as the largest suspension bridge in the world. It is especially attractive at night, when it is illuminated by thousands of light bulbs. Among the places one should certainly visit while in Vancouver are the Vancouver Art Gallery, featuring artworks by Canadian and global artists, the architecturally interesting Great Hall of the Vancouver Law Courts, and the Vancouver Aquarium, the largest aquarium in Canada and one of the largest in the world, featuring more than 8000 marine species, ranging from the smallest to the largest - including whales. The aquarium is visited by more than 800,000 visitors a year. Furthermore, definitely worth a visit is Science World. Apart from technology, science and art exhibitions, it also features an OMNIMAX cinema with interesting presentations throughout the year. For advice on detailed sightseeing of Vancouver, you should visit the webpage: www.vancouverattractions.com. Also worth seeing is the second largest university in Canada, the University of British Columbia (UBC), which is attended by more than 100,000 students a year. Other points of interest are the impressive planetarium and the public library. Of course, shopping fans and addicts will definitely not feel neglected in Vancouver. Perfect shopping destinations are Robson Street, West Georgia Street, West Hasting Street and many other streets in the downtown area. In any case, true shoppers will certainly find their way, but they can also make use of the following websites: www.bcchoppingguide. com and www.robsonstreet.ca. Vancouver also boasts beautiful tourist attrac120

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tions in its vicinity, so it would be a real shame not to visit them during your stay. Among them are panoramic sightseeing rides by bus, boat, SeaBus or SkyTrain. For more info, visit the following websites: www.translink.bc.ca; www.boatcruises.com. One should also make sure not to miss the unique experience of whale-watching by Victoria Island or at any other location in the vicinity of Vancouver. It is always a fascinating and exciting experience, well worth the money and effort. One of the oldest tourist attractions in the vicinity of Vancouver is Capilano Park, featuring the oldest suspension bridge in the world. It is also the narrowest and tallest suspension bridge in the world, built in 1889 over the Capilano River and surrounded by a forest of cedar trees. It is an ideal place for relaxation after sightseeing and shopping around the city. Since Vancouver was the official host to the 2010 Winter Olympics, one should also make an effort to visit the nearby town of Whistler, where the most important events of the Winter Olympic Games took place. The Olympics aside, it is a very charming town, ideal for relaxation and recreation at all times of the year. It is a romantic place with many sports and cultural facilities, which will live up to the expectations of any fan of nature and alpine activities. If it is true that it does not matter how many times we inhale and exhale in our lifetimes, but the amount of times we are left breathless, we are guaranteed to experience the latter on a visit to the beautiful city of Vancouver and its attractive natural surroundings. Savour these moments if you can. They are unforgettable! Of course, everything is better with a companion! Vancouver is readily expecting you, full of inspiration! 

Suradnja Croatia Airlinesa i Air Canade u prijevozu putnika Od 26. listopada 2015. godine u primjeni je code share sporazum kojim su Croatia Airlines i Air Canada počele komercijalnu suradnju u prijevozu putnika između Hrvatske i Kanade. Tom suradnjom putnicima su ponuđeni veći izbor i dodatne pogodnosti tijekom putovanja između Hrvatske i Kanade. U sklopu code share sporazuma Air Canada, jedan od pet utemeljitelja udruge Star Alliance, dodaje svoju oznaku (AC) na letove Croatia Airlinesa iz Londona Heathrow, Pariza, Amsterdama, Bruxellesa, Züricha i Kopenhagena u Zagreb. Tijekom ljetne sezone oznaka AC dodat će se i na letove hrvatskog avioprijevoznika u Split i Dubrovnik iz navedenih europskih metropola. Po načelu reciprociteta Croatia Airlines dodaje oznaku OU na letove Air Canade iz Londona Heathrow, Pariza, Amsterdama, Bruxellesa, Züricha i Kopenhagena u Toronto, Montreal, Halifax, Saint Jonhs, Ottawu, Vancouver i Calgary. Croatia Airlines and Air Canada begin cooperation in passenger traffic On 26 October 2015, Croatia Airlines and Air Canada began commercial cooperation in passenger traffic between Canada and Croatia. The code share agreement offers the passengers even better choices and additional benefits when travelling between Canada and Croatia. As part of the code share agreement, Air Canada, one of the five founders of Star Alliance, allocates its international airline designator (AC) to Croatia Airlines’ flights from London Heathrow, Paris, Amsterdam, Brussels, Zurich, and Copenhagen to Zagreb. During the summer season, the AC designator will also be assigned to Croatia Airlines’ direct flights from European gateways to Split and Dubrovnik. On a reciprocal basis, Croatia Airlines adds its OU designator code on Air Canada operated flights from London Heathrow, Paris, Amsterdam, Brussels, Zurich and Copenhagen to Toronto, Montreal, Halifax, Saint Johns, Ottawa, Vancouver and Calgary.

Treasure every moment Discover the irresistible charm of southern Croatia. Whether travelling on business or pleasure, bring home unforgettable memories from our hotel, the newest gem at spectacular Dubrovnik Riviera. Contact us at: sales@sheratondubrovnikriviera.com or call us: +385 20 484 393

ÂŠ2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Sheraton and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms and conditions, visit sheraton.com/zagreb

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OBLJETNICE ANNIVERSARIES

ObiljeæavajuÊi 135. obljetnicu kontinuiranoga uspjeπnog djelovanja, Muzej za umjetnost i obrt u godini protekloj u znaku francuske kulture i godini u kojoj se navrπilo 300 ljeta od smrti francuskog kralja Luja XIV. predstavlja sedamdeset pet vrhunskih grafiËkih ostvarenja iz druge polovine 17. stoljeÊa, koje Ëuva u svome bogatom fundusu. Celebrating 135 years of continued successful activity, in the year stamped by French culture and marked by the 300th anniversary of the death of the French King Louis XIV the Museum of Arts and Crafts is presenting seventy five graphic masterpieces from the second half of the 17th century kept in its rich holdings.

IZ KABINETA LUJA XIV. GRAPHICS FROM THE CHAMBER OF LOUIS XIV

Piπe/By Anđelka Galić Fotografije/Photos Srećko Budek i/and Vedran Benović

zagrebačkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt posjetitelji mogu uživati u grafikama prvih grafičara Luja XIV. te u postavu izloæbe koji nastoji doËarati duh vremena ne samo grafikama, nego i izloæenim predmetima, prikladnom glazbenom podlogom, multimedijskom prezentacijom i projekcijama. Za trajanja izloæbe (do 3. siječnja 2016.) organiziran je i bogat popratni program koji Êe ukljuËiti koncerte, kreativne radionice za sve uzraste te predavanja brojnih struËnjaka razliËitih podruËja, od grafike i arhitekture do glazbe i teatra. Izloæba pruæa uvid u odabir od sedamdeset pet izloæenih grafiËkih djela iz znamenite edicije Kraljevskog kabineta (Cabinet du Roi) koja pripada velikom projektu sustavne izrade i prikupljanja grafika prema zamisli Luja XIV., koji je grafiËkim medijem æelio ovjekovjeËiti razdoblje svoje vladavine (1643. - 1715.). Razdoblje francuske kulturne povijesti, koje se naziva i Grand Siècle, obiljeæilo je procvat umjetnosti i znanosti, a radovi zastupljeni na izloæbi svjedoËe o vrhunskim dosezima u arhitekturi, lijepim, primijenjenim umjetnostima te scenskoj umjetnosti u Francuskoj druge polovine 17. stoljeÊa.

Étienne Baudet (prema Charlesu Le Brunu) - Europa Étienne Baudet (Charles Le Brun) - Europe CROATIA AIRLINES

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Izloæba Arhitektura i performans preko vrhunskih ostvarenja slavnih grafiËara osvjetljava ulogu koju su grafiËari viπe od drugih umjetnika imali u glorifikaciji vladavine Luja XIV., svjedoÊi o ulozi grafiËkog medija kao Ëuvara sjeÊanja na umjetniËke dosege jednog razdoblja. Through the extraordinary achievements of famed graphic artists the Architecture and Performance exhibition casts light on the role that graphic artists had in glorifying the reign of Louis XIV, more so than other artists, witnessing the role of the graphic medium as the guardian of memories of the artistic achievements of an era.

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Bakrorezi i bakropisi iz velike cjeline Kraljevskog kabineta kao Ilustracije jedne vladavine ilustriraju, kako i naziv izloæbe govori, arhitekturu kraljevskih palaËa te vladarski performans i ceremonijal koji je u tim palaËama, njihovim vrtovima i raskoπnim interijerima zaæivio u punom sjaju u vrijeme vladavine Luja XIV. Prednosti grafike kao komunikacijskog medija jednostavno su umnoæavanje i laka prenosivost. Upravo su se zato grafike Kraljevskog kabineta otiskivale u Kraljevskoj tiskari i raskoπno uvezivale kako bi ih kralj mogao darivati drugim europskim vladarima i stranim veleposlanicima, sa svrhom da se slike bogatstva i sjaja njegova dvora proπire Europom. Izloæba je podijeljena u tri velike tematske cjeline: prva cjelina obuhvaÊa arhitekturu kraljevskih rezidencija, druga prikazuje ornamente prvih kraljevih slikara izvedene u interijerima palaËa, a treÊa cjelina veliËanstveno dokumentira velike kraljevske sveËanosti koje su obiljeæile povijest Versaillesa i vladavinu Luja XIV. Iz prve cjeline, posveÊene arhitekturi kraljevskih palaËa Louvre i Tuileries (Plans élévations et vûes des Châteaux du Louvre et des Tuileries), na izloæbi moæemo vidjeti tlocrte, nacrte proËelja i slikovite vedute Israëla Silvestrea, koje dokumentiraju graditeljske zahvate na palaËama u izvedbi arhitekta Louisa Le Vaua i ureenje vrtova u reæiji kraljevog vrtlara Andréa Le Nôtrea tijekom 1660-ih godina. Osim vanjskom ureenju i proπirenju palaËa Louvre i Tuileries, mnogo se paænje pridavalo i unutarnjem ureenju, πto je vidljivo iz grafiËkih prikaza uzoraka ornamentalne dekoracije i opreme interijera kraljevskih apartmana iz vremena preureenja u stilu Luja XIV. Grafike s planovima, tlocrtima i nacrtima palaËa, kao i sjajne vedute tih kljuËnih spomenika 17. stoljeÊa, potpisuju Israël Silvestre, Jean Marot i Sébastian Le Clerc. GrafiËki zapisi koji prikazuju palaËu Tuileries ujedno su i vrijedno sjeÊanje na njen izgled i ureenje jer je palaËa, koju je izvorno dala podiÊi kraljica Katarina Medici, uniπtena kao simbol Drugog carstva u Pariπkoj komuni 1871. godine. Louvre postupnim pregradnjama postaje jedan od najveÊih svjetskih muzeja. Druga velika cjelina (Plans, élévations et vûes du Château de Versailles) prezentirana na izloæbi vezana je uz dvorac Versailles, koji od 1682. godine postaje novom kraljevskom rezidencijom Luja XIV. Na grafikama su dokumentirane etape transformacije Versaillesa od lovaËke kuÊe Luja XIII. do najveliËanstvenije barokne rezidencije koja Êe postati uzorom vladarskim palaËama u Europi. Etape gradnje dvorca i ureenja vrtova na svojim je grafikama ovjekovjeËio prvi kraljev grafiËar Israël Silve-

Israël Silvestre, 1670. Veduta palače i vrtova Tuileries View of the Tuileries palace and gardens

Jean Marot, 1676. Glavno pročelje Louvrea Principal facade of the Louvre

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François Chauveau, 1670. Vrata u Velikom apartmanu palače Tuileries Doors of the Grand Apartement of the Tuileries palace

Jean Le Pautre, 1676. Peti dan. Vatromet iznad versajskog kanala The fifth day. Fireworks above the Versailles channel

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stre. U toj cjelini sadræana su neka od najboljih ostvarenja grafiËke umjetnosti tog razdoblja, vezana uz dekoraciju reprezentativnih interijera Versaillesa, uniπtenih pregradnjama nakon smrti Luja XIV. RijeË je o velikim dekorativnim ansamblima prvih kraljevih slikara Charlesa Le Bruna i Pierrea Mignarda na svodu Velikog stubiπta, poznatoga i kao Stubiπte veleposlanika (Grand Escalier) s alegorijskim, mitoloπkim i simboliËnim prikazima te prizorima slavnih kraljevih postignuÊa i njegovih vrlina. To je grandiozno stubiπte oËuvano samo na grafikama Étiennea Baudeta, baπ kao su πto i grafike Gérarda Audrana svjedokom negdaπnjeg sjaja velikih slikarskih kompozicija Pierrea Mignarda na svodu galerije Maloga kraljeva apartmana, gdje Apolon, okruæen muzama i alegorijama znanosti i umjetnosti, predstavlja sjajnu glorifikaciju Luja XIV. kao pokrovitelja znanosti i umjetnosti. U treÊoj velikoj cjelini iz edicije Kraljevskog kabineta, koja se Ëuva u fundusu MUO, u nizu od dvadeset grafika predstavljenih na izloæbi Arhitektura i performans, ilustrirana su dogaanja iz triju velikih kraljevskih sveËanosti koje je Luj XIV. priredio za svoj dvor u vrtovima Versaillesa u razdoblju izmeu 1664. i 1674. godine. Tri grafiËka ciklusa (Les Plaisirs de l’Isle enchantée...1664., Fête de 18. Juillet 1668. i Les Divertissements de Versailles 1674.) vjerno prenose oËaravajuÊu atmosferu i ugoaj raznovrsnih dogaanja tijekom spektakularnih sveËanosti koje su trajale po nekoliko dana i koje su svojim sadræajima, raskoπi i sjajem nadmaπile sve πto je Europa do tada vidjela. Zajedno s viteπkim turnirima, gozbama, vatrometima, iluminacijama parkova i drugim oblicima razbibrige dvora, u parkove i na improvizirane pozornice na otvorenome Luj XIV. u Versailles je, za te prigode, donio najbolje πto je u tom trenutku bilo na pariπkim pozornicama: koncerte Jeana Baptistea Lullyja, Molièreove komedije te komedije baleta te dvojice velikana francuske glazbe i drame, Beauchampove koreografije i Vigaranijevu scenografiju. Zanimljivo je da je upravo za vrijeme sveËanosti 1674. godine uprizoren Molièreov Umiπljeni bolesnik, πto potvruje da su predstave za kralja bile pomno odabrane uspjeπnice pariπke kazaliπne scene, a na sjajnoj grafici Jeana Le Pautrea mogu se promatrati detalji raskoπne dekoracije, sjajne scenografije kao i silueta Luja XIV. koji uæiva najbolji pogled. Na pozadini zadivljujuÊih inscenacija istodobno se gradio mit o Versaillesu i pripremao put za njegovu transformaciju od mjesta Ëudesnih uprizorenja, mjesta uæivanja i sofisticirane zabave dvora u sjediπte dræavne uprave i simbol jednog sustava vladavine.

Izloæba Arhitektura i performans preko vrhunskih ostvarenja slavnih grafiËara kao πto su Israël Silvestre, Jean Le Pautre, Gérard Audran, François Chaveau i drugi, osvjetljava ulogu koju su grafiËari viπe od drugih umjetnika imali u glorifikaciji vladavine Luja XIV., posvjedoËujuÊi ulogu grafiËkog medija kao Ëuvara sjeÊanja na umjetniËke dosege jednog razdoblja. 

n the Zagreb Museum of Arts and Crafts visitors can enjoy the prints of the King’s Louis XIV first printmakers, as well as the exhibition itself which aims to evoke the spirit of the times not only with the prints showcased, but also other exhibits, appropriate background music, multimedia presentations and projections until 3 January 2016. During the exhibition, a rich accompanying programme is organised, including concerts, creative workshops for all ages and lectures given by many experts in different fields, ranging from printmaking and architecture to music and theatre. The exhibition provides an insight into the seventy five graphic works selected from the famed Royal Cabinet (Cabinet du Roi) edition, belonging to the great project of systematically producing and collecting prints following the concept of Louis XIV, who wished to capture the period of his reign (1643-1715) in the graphic medium. The period of French cultural history, also called the Grand Siècle, was marked by the flourishing of both art and science, and the works exhibited testify to the superb achievements in architecture, and the fine, applied and performing arts in France in the second half of the 17th century. Copperplate engravings and etchings from the grand Royal Cabinet as Illustrations of a Reign illustrate, as also suggested by the title of the exhibition, the architecture of royal palaces, and royal performances and ceremonies which came to life in all their glory in the palaces, gardens and exquisite interiors during the reign of Louis XIV. The advantages of graphics as a communication medium are simple multiplication and easy portability. It was for this reason that the prints of the Royal Cabinet were printed at the Imprimerie Royale and lavishly bound - so that the King could bestow these prints on other European rulers and foreign ambassadors, with the purpose of spreading these images of the wealth and splendour of his court across Europe. The exhibition is divided into three major thematic units: unit one covers the architecture of the royal residences, unit two presents the ornamentation of the King’s master painters made in the interiors of palaces, while unit

Franรงois Chauveau, 1670. Vrata u Velikom apartmanu palaฤ e Tuileries Doors of the Grand Apartement of the Tuileries palace

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three documents magnificently grand royal ceremonies, which marked the history of Versailles and the rule of Louis XIV. Unit one, dedicated to the architecture of the royal palaces of Louvre and Tuileries (Plans élévations et vûes des Châteaux du Louvre et des Tuileries), brings ground plans, facade blueprints and Israel Silvestre’s picturesque panoramas documenting palace construction projects by architect Louis Le Vau and landscape design done by the royal gardener André Le Nôtre during the 1660s. Aside from exterior design and extending the palaces of Louvre and Tuileries, much attention was also given to interior design, which is evident from the graphic illustrations of ornamental decoration patterns and the interior design of the royal apartments from the time of reconstruction in the style of Louis XIV. The prints with plans, ground plans and architectural drawings of palaces, as well as the superb panoramas of these key monuments of the 17th century are signed by Israel Silvestre, Jean Marot and Sébastien Le Clerc. The graphic illustrations showing the Tuileries Palace are also an invaluable memory of its visage and landscaping given that the Palace, originally erected by Queen Catherine de’ Medici, was destroyed in the Paris Commune of 1871 as a symbol of the Second Empire. Owing to its gradual reconstructions, the Louvre Palace has become one of the world’s greatest museums. Unit two (Plans, élévations et vûes du Château de Versailles) presented at the exhibition focuses on the Palace of Versailles, which in 1682 became the new royal residence of Louis XIV. The prints document the stages of transformation of Versailles from the hunting lodge of Louis XIII to the most magnificent Baroque residence, which became the model for royal palaces in Europe. The stages of construction of the Palace and its gardens were immortalised by the King’s master printmaker Israel Silvestre in his prints. This unit brings some of the best works of graphic art of the period, illustrating the decoration of representative interiors of the Palace of Versailles destroyed by reconstructions done after the death of Louis XIV. These are large decorative ensembles painted by the King’s master painters Charles Le Brun and Pierre Mignard on the ceiling of the Grand Staircase (Grand Escalier), also known as the Ambassadors’ Staircase, bringing allegorical, mythological and symbolic representations and scenes of the King’s famed achievements and his virtues. This Grand Staircase has been preserved only in Étienne Baudet’s prints, just as Gérard Audran’s prints witness the sometime 130

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splendour of the great painting compositions of Pierre Mignard on the ceiling of the gallery of the King’s Small Apartment, where Apollo, surrounded by muses and allegories of the arts and sciences, represents the magnificent glorification of Louis XIV as a patron of the arts and sciences. Unit three of the great Royal Cabinet edition, kept in the holdings of the Museum of Arts and Crafts, brings a series of twenty prints mounted in the Architecture and Performance exhibition, illustrating the events of three major royal ceremonies prepared by Louis XIV for his court in the gardens of Versailles in the period between 1664 and 1674. The three graphic cycles (Les Plaisirs de l’Isle enchantée...1664, Fête de 18. Juillet 1668 and Les Divertissements de Versailles 1674) are faithful in conveying the enchanting atmosphere and ambience of various events during the spectacular ceremonies which lasted for several days and which outstripped with their contents, luxuries and splendour all that Europe had previously seen. Coupled with knights’ tournaments, feasts, fireworks, illuminations of parks and other forms of amusement of the court, Louis XIV brought to the parks and improvised outdoor stages of Versailles the best of Parisian stages of the time: Jean Baptiste Lully’s concerts, Moliere’s comedies, and the comedy-ballets of these two giants of French music and drama, Beauchamp’s choreography and Vigarani’s sets. It is interesting that it is precisely during a 1674 ceremony that Moliere’s The Imaginary Invalid was staged, which only confirms that the performances for the King were carefully selected hits of the Parisian theatre scene, while the great prints of Jean Le Pautre bring the details of elegant decorations, brilliant sets and the silhouette of Louis XIV enjoying the best view. Against a background of impressive settings, the myth of Versailles was simultaneously being built and the path to its transformation prepared, transformation from a place of wondrous staging, a place of the enjoyment and sophisticated entertainment of the court into the seat of state administration and a symbol of a system of rule. Through the extraordinary achievements of such famed graphic artists as Israel Silvestre, Jean Le Pautre, Gérard Audran, François Chaveau and others, the Architecture and Performance exhibition casts light on the role that graphic artists had in glorifying the reign of Louis XIV, more so than other artists, witnessing the role of the graphic medium as the guardian of memories of the artistic achievements of an era. 

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CROATA MUSEUM CONCEPT STORE HRVATSKA SVJETSKA INOVACIJA A NEW-TO-THE-WORLD INNOVATION FROM CROATIA Muzeji - sjedišta muza odavno su najzanimljivija mjesta u gradovima. To su prostori u kojima osjećamo mir ali i nadahnuće, mjesta na kojima postajemo boljim ljudima. Ima ih mnogo, a postav i koncept imaju veliku ulogu u privlačenju publike. Najoriginalniji koncept, zapravo jedini takav koncept na svijetu, razvio je hrvatski luksuzni modni brend Croata u suradnji s ustanovom Academia Cravatica - Museum Concept Store. Museums, centers of Muses, have long since been considered the most interesting places in towns. Museums are places where we feel peace but also excitement and inspiration. They are also places where we become better people. There are many museums, but it is the exhibits on display and the underlying concepts that play a major role in attracting the visitors. In cooperation with Academia Cravatica, Croatian luxury fashion brand Croata has designed the most innovative concept, a newto-the-world innovation - a museum concept store.

useum Concept Store primjer je muzeološke realizacije predstavljene široj međunarodnoj muzejskoj zajednici kao obrazac specifičnog oblika trgovine nadahnutog lokalnom baštinom. U Salonu Croata na splitskom Peristilu postavljen je prvi takav koncept na svijetu ljeti 2008., koji je iste godine nagrađen na Prvom europskom forumu kompanijskih muzeja, održanom u Milanu iste godine. Na njemu su sudjelovali i brendovi poput Ferrarija, Ducatija, Siemensa, Guinnessa i Sonyja, među kojima je primjer Croate spomenut kao najoriginalniji i kao smjernica razvoja globalne maloprodaje. Croata je jedina među velikim brendovima koja u središtu grada priča priču o gradu. Nastavak Concept Shop Museuma zatim je uslijedio u Salonu Croata u Rijeci. Pod nazivom Iz povijesti i pretpovijesti kravate integrirana je priča o kravati, njezinoj povijesti i značenju. Naime, kao što svaki predmet postaje zanimljiv kada se iza njega otkriva čovjek, tako je i s kravatom. Za izložbeni prikaz koji je sadržajno vezan uz grad Rijeku i njegovo šire područje, odabrane su reprezentativne osobe iz njezine povijesti: poduzetnik, graditelj i kulturni mecena Ljudevit Adamić te skladatelj Ivan pl. Zajc. Izložene su i replike akvarela Nikole Arsenovića, samoukog slikara koji je sredinom 19. stoljeća obilazio krajeve i bilježio ljude u narodnim nošnjama, na čijim slikama vidimo preteče kravata, u ovome kraju poznate kao facoli. Treći takav koncept Croata salona dobio je 2015. i grad Dubrovnik. Hrvatski fenomen u Dubrovniku U salonu Croata u Dubrovniku integrirana je priča o kravati, njezinoj povijesti i značenju, a za izložbeni prikaz, koji je sadržajno vezan uz grad Dubrovnik i njegovo šire područje, odabrane su reprezentativne povijesne osobe: barokni pjesnik i pravnik u državnoj službi Grada Ivan Gundulić, slikar međunarodne reputacije Vlaho Bukovac, te publicist i političar Frano Supilo. U Dubrovniku se nalazi i hrvatski fenomen portret Ivana Gundulića - prvi projekt čovjeka u kravatu na svijetu. Bezvremenska kravata Ovaj neobičan i zanimljiv trajni muzejski postav vodi nas kroz povijest i razvoj kravate od rupca koji su žene darivale mladićima u znak vjernosti prije nego što su odlazili u rat, preko znamenitih povijesnih ličnosti koje su nosile kravatu, pa sve do modernoga modnog izričaja i stila. Croata tako uzima najbolje iz povijesti i spaja sa sadašnjošću preko nevjerojatnih opisa

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various regions in the mid-19th century and painted people dressed in folk costumes which included forerunners of the tie locally known as the facoli, are also on display. The third Croata museum concept store was set up in Dubrovnik in 2015. A Croatian Phenomenon in Dubrovnik The Croata salon in Dubrovnik also tells the story about the tie, its history and meaning. The exhibits associated with the city of Dubrovnik and its surroundings are also presented in relation to the representative persons from the history of the city, including Baroque poet and city government lawyer Ivan GunduliÊ, internationally-renowned painter Vlaho Bukovac and publicist and politician Frano Supilo. The Dubrovnik store also includes a portrait of Ivan GunduliÊ, a Croatian phenomenon and the first portrait of a man wearing a cravat in the world.

prošlih vremena u kombinaciji sa živopisnim slikama i skulpturama. Pogled iza zrcala Muzejske priče o povijesnim osobama i izloške u obliku replika kravata koje su nosili uglednici, povezuje na dinamičan način - zrcalo! Uloga zrcala u formi uske vertikale koja dijeli hrvatski od engleskoga teksta, a povezuje ih središnji lik poput Gundulića, Bukovca, Supila… i replika njihove kravate - jest uključivanje posjetitelja jer ističe njegovu osobnost, njegovu individualnu ljepotu. Atraktivnost i osobitost Muzeja u izlogu potvrda je predanosti branda CROATA kreativnosti i inovaciji, jer, kreirajući globalne trendove, ujedno afirmira i lokalne vrijednosti. U salonu CROATA jedinstveni spoj kulture i kupnje doživjet će i lokalni građani i turisti. Dobro zavezana kravata prvi je važan korak u životu, rekao je poznati pisac Oscar Wilde, pa zakoračimo u Croata svijet…. 

museum concept store is an example of a concept store designed as a museum presented to the wide international museum community as a special type

of a concept store inspired by local heritage. In the summer of 2008, the Croata salon in Split’s Peristyle was the first in the world to be set up as a museum concept store. The same year, Split’s Croata salon was awarded at the First European Corporate Museum Forum held in Milan, competing against brands such as Ferrari, Ducati, Siemens, Guinness and Sony. At the Forum, Croata’s example was highlighted as the most innovative one and as a guideline to be followed in the future development of the global retail segment. Croata is the only major brand that tells the story about the town from the very heart of it. The Croata salon in Rijeka followed suit. The exhibition entitled From the History and Prehistory of the Tie integrates the story about the tie, its history and meaning. More precisely, objects become interesting when we associate them with particular persons, and the tie is no exception. The exhibits associated with the city of Rijeka and its surroundings are therefore presented in relation to representative persons from the history of the city, including entrepreneur, builder and cultural patron Ljudevit AdamiÊ and composer Ivan pl. Zajc. The replicas of aquarelles by Nikola ArsenoviÊ, a self-taught painter who visited

The Timeless Tie This unusual and interesting permanent museum exhibition takes us through the history and evolution of the tie from the handkerchief given as a gift by women to men going to war and cravats worn by famous historical figures, to modern style ties. Thus, Croata takes the best from the past and combines it with the present through remarkable depictions of the times past in combination with vivid paintings and sculptures. A Glance behind the Mirror The displayed museum stories about various historical figures and replicas of ties worn by various distinguished people are connected in a dynamic manner - by mirrors! The role of narrow vertical mirrors separating the Croatian text from the English one, which are otherwise connected by the related central figure such as, for example, GunduliÊ, Bukovac, Supilo etc. and the replicas of their ties, is to ensure interaction with the visitor, accentuating his personality and individual beauty. The attractiveness and uniqueness of its museum concept stores confirm CROATA brand’s commitment to creativity and innovation since, while setting global trends, it also affirms local values. At Croata salons, both locals and tourists will experience a unique combination of culture and shopping. Famous writer Oscar Wilde said: A well-tied tie is the first serious step in life, so let’s step into the world of Croata...  CROATIA AIRLINES

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Branka Donassy

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Andrija Zelemanović

MODA FASHION

Piπe/By Dubravka Prpić Znaor

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Mario Jakšić i BAGGIZ PR

BAGGIZ CROATIA AIRLINES

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Martina Lutfi Pašić

LP design

Bags by Kristina

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Hrvatska se modna scena razvija već niz godina i ponosi mnogim autorima koji su uspjeli kod kuće, ali i u inozemstvu. No jedna niša posljednjih sezona sve je jača: torbu i naprtnjaču kao stilski izazov vidi sve više dizajnera.

Barbara Perica i Iva Mosner dugogodišnje su prijateljice i dizajnerice te ujedno poslovne partnerice: osmislile su nekoliko kolekcija i brendova - Gooma, Poshta i Yedro, koji su danas u Hrvatskoj popularni među ljubiteljima autentičnog suvremenog dizajna od recikliranih materijala. Sve je počelo s Goomom: od probušenih, starih zračnih guma nastale su

The Croatian fashion scene has been developing for years, and it now boasts many creators who have succeeded at home and abroad. One niche has seen a particular surge over the past few seasons: the bag and the backpack have been recognized as a challenge by an increasing number of fashion designers.

ogodilo se to u skladu sa svjetskim trendovima koji nalažu sve praktičniji i jednostavniji lifestyle jer stalno nekamo trčimo i jurimo kako bismo stigli odraditi prenatrpani dnevni raspored. Dakle, naprtnjača se ispostavila kao savršeno rješenje: u nju stane sve i svašta, a još je i stilistički dotjerana. Zašto ne bismo stavili sve na leđa? Pa ponekad je stvarno lakše kad su nam ruke slobodne, a veselje je veće

ako nam kreacija zaista krasi leđa. Uostalom, često je taj dizajn unisex. To potkrjepljuju neki naši autori tvrdnjama kako su upravo kupci diktirali njihov smjer: sve veća potražnja za stylish naprtnjačom vidi se diljem Hrvatske i zvijezda je rođena. Predstavit ćemo neke od autora koji u Lijepoj našoj predvode ovu niša scenu i svakodnevno razmišljaju što i kako ćemo na leđa ili na stranu instalirati vrlo, vrlo dotjeranu kreaciju.

SUDAR

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Mare Milin

Oaza Rogoz CROATIA AIRLINES

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GOOMA

prve torbe, a nakon toga i od starih jedara. Njihova je tehnika upcycling, koja razumijeva pretvaranje materijala što su predviđeni za otpad u nove nosive i praktične proizvode, u ovom slučaju torbe i naprtnjače. - Mi umjesto starih, probušenih zračnica i odbačenih, istrošenih jedara vidimo sirovine za preradu. Takav pristup zaista nam nudi mogućnost ostvarivanja našega najvećeg cilja, a to je ekološki osviješten dizajn. Ljudi koji podržavaju takav pristup zovu to zatvaranjem petlje ili closing the loop - kažu autorice. - Želimo smanjiti količinu odbačenih stvari, planiranjem potencijalnog recikliranja ili prenamjene nekog proizvoda na kraju svog vijeka. Taj je proces poznat po nazivu designing out waste. Osim starih guma, u njihovu procesu novi život dobivaju i stare hrvatske poštanske vreće, od koji rade torbe, tobolce, etuie i naprtnjače. - Rabili smo originalnu tipografiju i natpise s poštanskih vreća: Hrvatska, pošta, Croatia, te nacionalnu kolorističku notu s prugama. Ostavljale smo sve one autentične rupe od habanja samih vreća. Štoviše u tome su procesu dobrodošle, jer njih nismo trebale napraviti kemijskim procesom kojim se danas koristi kako bi se one pojavile. Na torbama, osim rupa, ima i originalnih poštanskih žigova, natpisa pisanih rukom, brojeva, zakrpa. Sve naše torbe, tobolci i naprtnjače drugačiji su i različitih dimenzija, poput svakog pisma koje je autentično i koje je putovalo u toj vreći. Torba je jednostavna, platnena, praktična, funkcionalna i izdržljiva. Uspjele smo proizvesti prave autohtone suvenire, urbanog dizajna, ručno izrađene i unikatne. - Torba je čitav jedan svijet u malom - uvjereni su u Baggizu. - Uvijek je tu kad je trebate, čuva sve potrebne sitnice blizu i na sigurnom. Ona je samo vaša i nitko nema pravo viriti u nju, 142

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čuva vašu privatnost i pruža potrebnu sigurnost. Zato stvaramo za individualce koji cijene simbiozu dizajna i lokalnih materijala visoke kvalitete, a sve je počelo prije gotovo deset godina u Čakovcu - poručuje Tomislav Brozović iz Baggiza. Počelo je s jednom savršenom torbom koju je dizajnerica Ana napravila za sebe. S vremenom se jedna torba pretvorila u desetke, a deseci njih u našu malu prepoznatljivu tvornicu. Mnogo vremena ulažemo u testiranje izdržljivosti novog dizajna, prije nego iz njega nastane torba koja ulazi u novu kolekciju. Tako smo potpuno sigurni kako su torbe dovoljno blizu savršenog proizvoda. Veliku važnost pridajemo podrijetlu svih materijala koji rabimo u kolekcijama, zato su naši materijali 100 posto fair-trade i lokalno proizvedeni. Također, sve torbe ručno su rađene, s mnogo pažnje, u našoj vlastitoj proizvodnji. Posljednjih mjeseci sve veću popularnost kod nas ima i Borša, a ime znači - torba. Autori i osnivači Tomislav Grgid i Vjeko Mandid, koji djeluju u sklopu brenda Mala Radnja Dizajna,

ponosni su na to što su njihove kreacije dio hrvatske street-style scene. - Sve više ih kupuju kod nas ali i u inozemstvu, što nas veoma veseli. Imamo cjelovit hrvatski proizvod jer sve se radi ovdje i ručno. Pokušavamo se inovativnim dizajnom izdvojiti iz mase i upravo to prepoznali su naši klijenti. Trudimo se i oko izbora materijala, kako bi bio što kvalitetniji. U ponudi su torbe i naprtnjače, no neki modeli mogu se nositi na oba načina. Jedan od najpoznatijih naših modela jest svakako naprtnjača Black Swan, stvorena da u nju stane sve. Zamišljena je kao putna torba: prošle je godine dobila i svoje miniizdanje i nekoliko novih boja, a ove godine i potpuno novi dizajn pod imenom Swan 1960. - Iako su narudžbe sve veće, autori inzistiraju na originalnom dizajnu pa je često riječ o limitiranim miniserijama koje se ponavljaju u samo nekoliko primjeraka. - Našim je prijateljima i klijentima drago kad znaju da nose gotovo original i da neće sličnu torbu vidjeti na svakom uglu - kažu.

Patrizia Donà - Remington

Patrizia Donà

Torbe Bags by Kristina posljednje tri godine osvajaju ljubiteljice neobičnih i unikatnih detalja: iza imena krije se hrvatska fotografkinja Kristina Fazinić, koja se nakon dugogodišnje fotografske karijere proširila na modni dizajn. - Priroda mog posla je posveta detaljima, a kako često putujem, poželjela sam nekako više istaknuti ljepote Hrvatske tako da neki od mojih modela imaju i fotografije prekrasnih morskih predjela - ističe Kristina, rodom s Korčule. Njezine kožne torbe, osim funkcionalna dizajna, nude šarmantan pristup fotografiji, koja se pojavljuje na torbama u posve neočekivanom kontekstu - kao detalj koji pridonosi originalnosti. Omiljeni su joj motivi more i kamen, no osim fotografiranja krajolika, voli snimati i detalje iz svakodnevice. Uspješna je i izvan granica - sve više narudžbi prima iz Engleske.

Petra Lasić, autorica brenda LP design, ističe kako je najpopularniji komad iz njezina asortimana upravo ležerna naprtnjača. Kriterij za odabir materijala u prvom je redu kvaliteta, te otpornost na vanjske utjecaje, a onda i boja. Ono zbog čega su posebne jest njihova jednostavnost. Praktične su, idealne za grad, posao, festival, bicikl... Veliku pažnju obraća novim tkaninama, obrađenima tako da budu lakše za održavanje, pa je novitet ove zime još naprednija varijanta ekokože. Branka Donassy, koju publika u Hrvatskoj, a i šire, poznaje po tamnom i inovativnom art minimalizmu, u ponudi ima i torbe: - Vanjski dio s ručkama od čvrste je kože ili eko kože, a unutarnji od spužvastog poliesterskog perivog materijala u tamno i svijetlosivoj boji, koje se mogu birati. Dostupna u dvije veličine - veći format 55x35 cm - omogućava nošenje CROATIA AIRLINES

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Tomislav Mataić

laptopa, a manji dimenzija 40x25 cm može se nositi na tri načina: klasično s dvije ručke, kao naprtnjača i preko ramena, spojenim ručkama u jednu dugu - ističe dizajnerica. Melina Marelja potpisuje Kon2re torbe napravljene od eko kože, prave kože i pamuka u malim, limitiranim edicijama. Njezin potpis predstavlja minimalizam i posvetu detaljima, naročito kad je o teksturi riječ. Velike i male torbe donose meandar 3D formulu po kojoj je, na lokalnoj sceni modnih dodataka, ta autorica postala poznata. Kolekcija accessoriesa Hommage a Remington dugogodišnje dizajnerice Patrizije Done proizašla je iz fascinacije visokoestetiziranim i kompleksnim mehaničkim predmetom: pisaćim strojem. - Ime Remington, iz naziva kolekcije, odnosi se na jedan od najstarijih brandova pisaćih strojeva, a datira iz 1874. Nakon artističkih modela torbi Remington, u kojima je ugrađena cijela tipkovnica pisaćeg stroja, slijedila je komercijalna serija: modeli su pojednostavljeni u službi funkcionalnosti - istaknula je umjetnica, dobitnica brojnih dizajnerskih nagrada. Human Rolltop kreacije su suvremenog, jednostavnog dizajna koji potpisuju Dara Pantelić i Darko Dominik, voditelji hrvatske koncept trgovine Prostor. - Riječ je o naprtnjačama izrađenima ručno, u Hrvatskoj, od visokokvalitetnih, vodonepropusnih materijala i kože. Cilj je bio osmisliti torbe koje su idealne za sve vremenske uvjete, a krase ih višenamjenska obilježja i kvalitetna izrada. U njih stane sve - od onih svakodnevnih sitnica do tableta, laptopa… - izjavili su dizajneri. - Sudar projekt nastao je kao odgovor na masovnu proizvodnju, gdje se je u današnjem svijetu sve teže isticati - ističe Andrea Sudar. - Ljudi su sve više zainteresirani za personaliziranom ponudom, žele imati proizvod Kon2re

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koji ih razlikuje od ostalih, unikatan proizvod svojstven samo njima. Zato smo, uz pomoć modne i product dizajnerice Zrinke Nedeljković, kreirali proizvod što odražava osobnost osobe koja ga nosi . - Sudar Produkt osmislio je torbu koja se proizvodi od ceradnog platna (670g Sattler piliester) u tri modela (S, A i Z type), od kojih se S type proizvodi u tri veličine prilagođene veličini laptopa. Svaka torba jedinstveni je proizvod, pažljivo šivana i sastavljena. Kupac preko internet aplikacije naručuje personaliziranu torbu tako da sam odabire tipografiju, veličinu i boju pozadine, odnosno slova. Kolektiv Oaza tvore dizajnerice Nina Bačun, Roberta Bratović, Ivana Borovnjak, Maja Kolar, 146

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Tina Ivezić i Ana-Marija Poljanec, koje djeluju unutar područja industrijskog dizajna, dizajna interijera, izložbenih koncepcija i vizualnih komunikacija. Istraživačkim radom u području socijalnog dizajna, unutar lokalne zajednice, rade na strategijama za razvoj dizajnerske sfere. Naprtnjača Rogoz (lat. typha latifolia) razrađeni je model tradicionalnog cekera-rogožara vezan uz kulturu pletarstva Hrvatskog zagorja. Ručno je izrađen na tkalačkom stanu, iz vrpci vodene biljke rogoza, originalno namijenjen za nabavku hrane s tržnice. 

his is in line with global trends, which impose ever more practical and simpler styles to meet our everyday

requirements, as we are always running and rushing to be able to meet the demands of our overloaded schedules. Therefore, a backpack has proven to be the perfect solution: you can fit all sorts of things in it and it is well designed. Why wouldn’t we carry everything on our backs? Sometimes it is indeed so much easier to move about with our hands free, and the joy is even greater if this useful thing is also a stylish fashion statement which looks good on our backs. More often than not the design is unisex. This is corroborated by some of our authors who claim that their designs were dictated by their buyers: an increase in the demand for a stylish backpack can be witnessed all over Croatia, and a star is born. We will present you some of the authors who are at the forefront of this niche scene in our beautiful homeland, whose daily job is to envision how this very stylized creation will sit on our backs or on our shoulders. Barbara Perica and Iva Mosner have been friends and business partners for years: they are the duo behind several collections and brands - Gooma, Poshta and Yedro, which have a huge following among Croatian fans of authentic contemporary design and recycled materials. It all started with Gooma: old and punctured inner tubes were used to make the first bags, and the next material they used was old sails. Their technique is known as upcycling, which implies using materials intended for waste in order to create new, wearable and practical products, in this case bags and backpacks. Instead of old punctured inner tubes and discarded and worn out sails, we see raw materials for recycling. Such an approach indeed offers us the possibility to achieve our ultimate goal, which is an environmentally friendly design. The people who support this approach call it closing the loop, say the two authors. We wish to reduce the quantity of discarded goods by planning potential recycling or changing the use of a product at the end of its lifecycle. This process is known by the name designing out waste. Apart from old tires, their process gives a new lease of life to old Croatian postal sacks, which are transformed into bags, sacks, various cases and backpacks. We have used the original typography and inscriptions from old postal sacks: Croatian mail, Croatia, as well as the national colour scheme depicting stripes. We have kept all the authentic wear and tear holes on the sacks. They were actually welcome in our creation process because we did not have to resort to any chemical process, which is normally used to achieve the same effect on

new materials. Apart from holes, the sacks feature original postal stamps, hand-written annotations, numbers and patches. All our bags, sacks and backpacks are different and of various sizes, just like every single authentic letter that once travelled in those sacks. Our bags are simple, made from fabric, practical, functional and durable. We have managed to create original authentic souvenirs, products of urban design, handmade and unique. A bag is an entire world contained in a small object. This is what they believe at Baggiz. It is always there when you need it; it keeps all your bits and bobs close to you in a safe place. It is yours and yours alone, nobody has the right to peek into it; it protects your privacy and offers the necessary security. That is why our creations are intended for individuals who appreciate the symbiosis of design and high quality local materials, and it all started almost ten years ago in Čakovec, says Tomislav Brozović of Baggiz. The beginning was one perfect bag that designer Ana created for herself. With time, one bag became dozens of them, while the dozens of bags have eventually become our little but well recognizable factory. We invest a lot of time into testing the durability of every new design before it actually becomes a new bag in our collection. That is how we can be absolutely sure that our bags are close enough to being the perfect product. We pay a lot of attention to the origin of all the materials used in our collections, which is why our materials are 100 per cent fair-trade and locally produced. Also, all our bags are handmade, with a lot of attention to detail, and come from our own production lines. As of recently, another brand has become increasingly popular, Borša, which means bag. The authors and founders, Tomislav Grgid and Vjeko Mandid, members of Mala Radnja Dizajn (Small Design Workshop) are proud of the fact that their creations are part of the Croatian street-style scene. They are becoming ever more popular with buyers at home but also abroad, a fact which makes us very happy. We have a wholesome Croatian product because everything is made here by hand. We are using innovative design in an effort to stand out in the market of mass produced products, and our clients have recognized that. We are very careful about the choice of materials, making sure that they are of the highest possible quality. We offer bags and backpacks, but some of the models are versatile and can be worn both ways. One of our best known models is certainly the Black Swan backpack. It has been made to hold everything. Originally designed as a travel bag,

last year its minimized version was produced in several colours. This year it will be redesigned under the name Swan 1960. Although the orders keep pouring in, the authors insist on original design, which is why they sell only a limited number of items in small series. Our friends and clients are glad to know that the bag they are wearing is almost an original and that they will not see a similar bag on every street corner, they say. Over the past three years, Bags by Kristina have been winning the attention of aficionados of quirky and original details. The person behind the name is Croatian photographer Kristina Fazinić, who has decided to try her hand in fashion design after a long career as a photographer.

The nature of my job is attention to detail. As I travel a lot, I tried to somehow highlight the beauties of Croatia, and therefore some of my models feature photos of beautiful scenes of the sea, says Kristina, a native of Korčula. Apart from a functional design, her leather bags offer a charming approach to photography, and photos appear on her bags in a rather unexpected context as details contributing to originality. Her favourite motifs are the sea and rocks, but apart from landscapes, she also likes to take photos of scenes from everyday life. Her success has spread beyond the Croatian borders as she has been getting an increased number of orders from England. Petra Lasić, the author of the LP Design brand says that the most popular item in her col-

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lection is an unpretentious backpack. The criteria which govern the selection of materials are primarily quality and resilience to external factors, as well as colour. What makes her products unique is their simplicity. They are practical, ideal for the city, for work, for festivals, cycling… She pays a lot of attention to new easy-care fabrics, so the novelty this winter is an even more advanced type of eco leather. Branka Donassy, known to the public in Croatia and abroad for her dark and innovative art minimalism, also offers bags as part of her fashion range. Their exterior and handles are made from hard leather or eco leather, while the interior is a spongy polyester washable material which can be either dark or light gray, as desired. The bags come in two sizes - the bigger, 55 by 35 cm, can be used as a laptop bag, while the smaller, 40 by 25 cm, can be worn in three different ways: as a classical bag with two handles, as a backpack and as a shoulder strap bag with the two handles connected together, says the designer. Melina Marelja is the author behind Kon2re bags made from eco leather, real leather and cotton in small, limited editions. Her signature is minimalism and dedication to detail, particularly when it comes to texture. Both big and small bags feature a meandering 3D formula which has made the author famous on the local fashion accessory scene. The collection of accessories Hommage a Remington, by the long-standing fashion designer Patrizia Dona, is a result of her fascination with a highly aestheticized and complex mechanical machine: the typewriter. - The word Remington in the name of the collection is the name of one of the oldest typewriter brands, which dates back to 1874. After the artistic models of Remington bags, depicting an entire typewriter keyboard, models in the commercial series have been simplified and made more functional, says the artist and winner of many design awards. Human Rolltop creations have a contemporary and simple design, authored by Dara Pantelić and Darko Dominik, managers of the Croatian concept store Prostor (Space). These are backpacks, handmade in Croatia, from high quality waterproof materials and leather. Our goal was to design bags ideally suited for all weather conditions, fit for various purposes and characterized by high quality workmanship. They can hold anything ranging from everyday necessities to tablets or laptops, say the designers. The Sudar (Clash) project was an answer to mass production which makes it more and more difficult to stand out in today’s world, says Andrea Sudar. People show more and more interest in personalized offer; they want to own a product different from others, unique and only theirs. That is why we have teamed up with the fashion and product designer Zrinka Nedeljković, and created a product which reflects the personality of the person who wears it. Sudar Produkt has designed a bag made from tarpaulin material (670g Sattler polyester) in 3 different models (S, A and Z type) of which the S type is made in three different sizes adapted to laptop sizes. Each bag is a unique product, carefully sewn and assembled. Using an internet application, buyers order their personalized bag by choosing from a range of typographies, sizes, backgrounds and letter colours.  148

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UVALA IKAT ČIKAT BAY

Oaza bezvremenskog luksuza

An Oasis of Timeless Luxury

Na otoku Lošinju, koji je zbog svoje blagotvorne klime proglašen klimatskim lječilištem, nalazi se uvala Čikat, prva lošinjska uvala s premium ponudom i uslugom na razini 5 zvjezdica. Otkrijte Hotel Bellevue, jedinstveno mjesto luksuza, prvi lošinjski 5* hotel. Ovdje je svaki detalj pomno biran kako biste se u svakom trenutku boravka osjećali posebno i profinjeno. Iskoristite prednosti lošinjske klime i poboljšajte zdravlje! Naš hotel i njegova jedinstvena Spa Clinic savršen su izbor za ugodan bijeg od svakodnevice i revitalizirajuće wellness iskustvo. Vila Hortensia mjesto je gdje se sreću tradicionalna austrougarska arhitektura i osvježeni moderni stil. Vila je okružena predivnim vrtom te raspolaže vanjskim bazenom s grijanom morskom vodom i sunčalištem. Deset raskošnih spavaćih soba na raspolaganju su za opuštanje i uživanje u odmoru uz besprijekornu uslugu. Boutique Hotel Alhambra, član Small Luxury Hotels of The World, zaokružuje premium ponudu uvale Čikat. Riječ je o austrougarskoj vili iz 1912. godine, koju je projektirao ugledni bečki arhitekt Alfred Keller, nadahnut španjolskim graditeljstvom. Alhambra jest jedinstveno mjesto na kojemu se spaja duh aristokratskog vremena i osobit luksuz u kombinaciji s vrhunskom personaliziranom uslugom. U renoviranom hotelu možete uživati u vrhunski opremljenih 36 delux soba i 15 suitova. Provjerite naše posebne ponude i rezervirajte već sada svoj odmor iz snova!

Located on the island of Lošinj, which was proclaimed a health resort due to its beneficial climate, is Čikat Bay, Lošinj’s first bay with a premium offer and services on a 5-star level. Discover Hotel Bellevue, a unique place of luxury, and Lošinj’s first 5-star hotel. Every detail here has been carefully selected so that you feel special and pampered at every moment. Make sure to take advantage of the island’s climate and improve your health! Our hotel and its unique Spa Clinic are the perfect choice for a pleasant escape from everyday life and a revitalizing wellness experience. Villa Hortensia is a place where traditional AustroHungarian architecture and a refreshing, modern style meet. The villa is surrounded by a magnificent garden and it has an outdoor swimming pool with heated sea water and a sunbathing area. Ten luxurious en-suite bedrooms are available for you to relax and enjoy your vacation with flawless service. Boutique Hotel Alhambra, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, completes Čikat Bay’s premium offer. The hotel is an AustroHungarian villa dating back to 1912, designed by renowned Viennese architect Alfred Keller, and inspired by Spanish architecture. Alhambra creates a unique location that combines the spirit of aristocratic times and exceptional luxury with the ultimate in personalized service. At this renovated hotel you can enjoy your stay in one of the 36 deluxe rooms and 15 suites which have been luxuriously furnished. Check out our special offers and book your dream vacation!

T: +385 (0)51 66 11 11

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PROSINAC/ DECEMBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings do/until 10.1.2015. ADVENT U ZAGREBU/ ADVENT IN ZAGREB Zagreb æivi u osobitom ozraËju i jednostavno ga morate doæivjeti u vrijeme adventa. Na mnogim se trgovima i ulicama grada pjeva, pleπe, zabavlja, uæiva u tradicionalnim delicijama na otvorenome ili tematski osmiπljenim programima πto gostima i graanima grada Zagreba donosi ugoaj adventa i BoæiÊa./Zagreb has a special atmosphere and you really should experience it during the Advent period. At many of the squares and streets of the city people sing, dance, have fun and enjoy traditional delicacies in the open or attend thematically designed programs which bring to the visitors and citizens of Zagreb the spirit of Advent and Christmas. www.adventzagreb.com do/until 10.1.2015., Zagreb ADVENT NA ZRINJEVCU/ ADVENT AT ZRINJEVAC Zrinjevac Êe vas doËekati u svom boæiÊnom, bajkovitom izdanju i ostaviti bez daha. Glazbene poslastice - boæiÊni klasici, valceri te pomno odabrani glazbeni program za dame i gospodu, razlog su zbog kojeg Êete se sigurno vraÊati na Zrinjevac./ Zrinjevac will welcome you with its Christmas spirit, fairytale-like appearance and leave you breathless. Musical treats - Christmas classics, waltzes and a carefully selected music programme for ladies and gentlemen are the reasons why you will again come back to Zrinjevac. www.adventzagreb.com

do/until 9.1.2016., Grabovnica BOÆI∆NA PRI»A OBITELJI SALAJ/ THE SALAJ FAMILY CHRISTMAS STORY Ovogodiπnja BoæiÊna priËa obitelji Salaj traje do 9. sijeËnja 2016. Ove godine imanje Êe biti okiÊeno s gotovo milijun i petsto tisuÊu žaruljica, a oËekuje vas bogat program i gastronomska ponuda./ This year’s Salaj Family Christmas Story lasts until 9 January 2016. The estate will be festooned with nearly one million and five hundred thousand lights, and a rich programme and gastronomic offer also await you. www.bozicnabajka.com Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 31.12., Fuæine ISPRA∆AJ STARE GODINE U FUÆINAMA/FAREWELL TO THE OLD YEAR IN FUÆINE U središtu Fuæina (igraliπte ispod brane) veÊ tradicionalno ispratit Êe se stara godina u podne. Sve goste oËekuje prava veselica koja Êe zavrπiti u kasnim poslijepodnevnim satima./ In the center of Fuæine (on the field below the dam), the already traditional farewell to the old year will be organized at noon. Visitors are welcome to attend the party that will end late in the afternoon. www.tz-fuzine.hr Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings do/until 10.1.2015. Dubrovnik Na najljepπoj pozornici grada, veliËanstvenom Stradunu, bit Êe otvoren BoæiÊni sajam s prodajom suvenira, darova i tradicionalnih rukotvorina. Uz prodajni dio sajma, osobito zanimljivi bit Êe i onaj ugostiteljski, pa Êe se u kuÊicama nuditi raznovrsne slane

i slatke delicije uz glazbu i vesela druæenja./ The Christmas Fair on the most beautiful stage of the city, the magnificent street Stradun, offers souvenirs, gifts and traditional handicrafts. In addition to shopping, you will find the catering section of the fair quite interesting. You can enjoy a variety of savory or sweet specialties, as well as music and a party-like atmosphere. SIJEČANJ/JANUARY Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 3. - 6.1., Zagreb FIS - VIP SNOW QUEEN TROPHY 2016/FIS - VIP SNOW QUEEN TROPHY 2016 Na zagrebaËkom Sljemenu sudjeluju najbolji slalomaπi iz cijeloga svijeta, a u tradicionalno dogaanje ukljuËuje se i publika iz srediπta grada. Na Sljemenu i u gradu oËekuje vas dobra zabava i gastronomska ponuda./The best slalom skiers in the world will participate in the competition on Sljeme and the audience in the city center will also be involved in this traditional event. Both on Sljeme and in the city you can enjoy the good entertainment and gastronomic offer. www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr 22.1., Zagreb 63. ZAGREBA»KI FESTIVAL/ 63rd ZAGREB FESTIVAL ZagrebaËki festival najstariji je festival zabavne glazbe u ovom dijelu Europe, ima svoju publiku i umjetnike koji æele nastaviti vrijedne zasade tradicionalne popularne glazbe, tako da svake zime i dalje predstavlja dogaaj koji ljubitelji glazbe ne propuπtaju./The Zagreb Festival is the oldest popular music festival in this part of Europe. It has its devoted audience and artists who want to continue the valuable tradition of popular music, so every winter this is an event that music lovers do not miss. www.zagrebacki-festival.hr www.zagrebacki-festival.hr Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 17.1.-10.2., Rijeka RIJE»KI KARNEVAL/ RIJEKA CARNIVAL Rijeka je postala glavnim gradom karnevala u Hrvatskoj. Meunarodna karnevalska povorka kruna je karne-

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vala. Natjecanje je to u maπtovitosti, duhovitosti i originalnosti. Pridruæite se mnoπtvu maski i prepustite dobrom raspoloæenju na ulicama naπega primorskoga grada. 22.1.- izbor kraljice RijeËkog karnevala i primopredaja kljuËa grada 30.1.- djeËja karnevalska povorka 17.2.- meunarodna karnevalska povorka Rijeka has become the capital city of carnivals in Croatia. The International Carnival Parade is the central event of the carnival. It is a competition of imagination, wit and originality. Join the multitude of masks and enjoy the good atmosphere in the streets of this seaside town. 22.1.- Rijeka Carnival Queen Pageant and handover of the town keys 30.1.- Children’s Carnival Parade 17.2.- International Carnival Parade www.rijecki-karneval.hr

VELJAČA/FEBRUARY Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 11.-14.2., Zagreb ZAGREB GUITAR FESTIVAL 2016./ THE ZAGREB GUITAR FESTIVAL 2016 Meunarodno natjecanje, koncerti klasiËne i jazz-glazbe, majstorske radionice, sajam gitara i opreme bit Êe prikazani na ovom festivalu koji Êe se odræati u Studentskom centru./The international competition, concerts of classical and jazz music, master classes and the guitar and equipment fair will be organised as part of the festival which will be held at the Studentski Centar. www.facebook.com/zagrebguitarfestival

* Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara * This schedule is valid until November 15th. Allow for changes after this date.

11.-14.2., Zagreb 5. ZAGREB COFFEE & CHOCOFEST/5th ZAGREB COFFEE & CHOCOFEST Uz predstavljanje najbolje domaÊe i svjetske Ëokolade te najnovijih trendova u industriji Ëokolade, organiziran Êe biti i zabavni program, nagradne igre, degustacije i predstavljanja, a sve u znaku Ëokolade./Along with presentations of the best local and international chocolates, and the latest trends in the chocolate industry, this event offers entertainment, contests, tastings and promotions, all in the spirit of chocolate. www.zagreb-chocofest.hr

9.2., Zagreb KONCERT MASSIMA SAVI∆A/ MASSIMO SAVI∆’S CONCERT Koncerti Massima u povodu Dana zaljubljenih u Zagrebu veÊ su postali tradicionalni, za njih se uvijek traæi ulaznica viπe. Koncert Êe se odræati

u koncertnoj dvorani Vatroslava Lisinskog./Massimo’s concerts on the occasion of Valentine’s Day in Zagreb have already become traditional and additional tickets for the concerts are always looked for. The concert will be held in the Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall. www.eventim.hr 12.2., Zagreb KONCERT LET 3/LET3 CONCERT LET3 odræat Êe veliki koncert pod nazivom Antivalentinovo u maloj dvorani Doma sportova u Zagrebu. Kako je svaki koncert benda glazbeno-scenski dogaaj sam za sebe, ni ovaj neÊe biti iznimka./LET3 will have a concert called ANTIVALENTINOVO (AntiValentine’s) in the small hall of Dom Sportova in Zagreb. As each of this band’s concerts is a special musical and stage performance, this one will not be an exception. www.eventim.hr

21.- 28.2., Zagreb ZAGREBDOX/ZAGREBDOX Meunarodni festival dokumentarnog filma, a prikazuje najbolje kreativne dokumentarne filmove. Zbog imaginativne forme i odabira tema ovaj festival jedinstveni je u Hrvatskoj i u Europi./ The International Documentary Film Festival presents the best creative documentaries whose imaginative form and selection of themes make it unique in Croatia and in Europe. www.zagrebdox.net

vog koncerta –avola u legendarnom KuluπiÊu./Neno Belan and Fiumens will have a big solo concert in Dom Sportova. The concert, Ljubav i moda - 30 godina (Love and Fashion - 30 Years), will mark 30 years of Neno Belan’s career, 30 years since the first album of his band –avoli, Ljubav i moda, was released (in 1986), and 30 years since the first concert of –avoli at the legendary KuluπiÊ Club. www.eventim.hr Dubrovnik i okolica / Dubrovnik and surroundings

27.2., Zagreb KONCERT NENE BELANA & FIUMENSA/CONCERT OF NENO BELAN & FIUMENS Neno Belan i Fiumensi odræat Êe veliki samostalni koncert u Domu sportova. Koncertom Ljubav i moda - 30 godina, Neno Belan Êe obiljeæiti 30 godina karijere, 30. obljetnicu od prvog albuma –avola Ljubav i moda koji je objavljen 1986. godine i 30. obljetnicu od pr-

1.-9. 2., Dubrovnik FESTA SV. VLAHA I DAN GRADA DUBROVNIKA/FESTIVITY OF ST. BLAISE AND THE DAY OF THE CITY OF DUBROVNIK DubrovËani veÊ viπe od tisuÊu godina slave blagdan svoga zaπtitnika, sv. Vlaha, te na taj dan otvaraju vrata svoga jedinstvenoga grada, u kojemu vas oËekuju mnoga kulturna i zabavna dogaanja./For over a thousand years the people of Dubrovnik have celebrated the day of their patron saint, St. Blaise, and have opened the doors of their unique city in which many cultural and entertainment events await the visitors. www.tzdubrovnik.hr CROATIA AIRLINES

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agreb, glavni grad Hrvatske, u stilu europskih gradova, uoči adventa postaje mjesto bogate ponude kulturnog sadržaja. Takav imidž grad Zagreb može zahvaliti i Artomatu, platformi koja od početka na jednome mjestu povezuje različite sudionike kreativne scene, afirmira brojne aspekte kreativnog izražavanja te sintetizira izložbeno-prodajni program, edukativni program i umjetnički interaktivni program. Artomat je nastao 2010. godine, inicijativom tadašnje ravnateljice Hrvatskoga društva likovnih umjetnika (HDLU) Gaelle Alexandre Gottwald te otada šesti put okuplja različite kreativce i umjetnike u Domu hrvatskih likovnih umjetnika, od 16. do 23. prosinca. Kvaliteta projekta prepoznata je i na Danu kreativnosti i inovativnosti, kada je 2013. godine Artomat osvojio 1. nagradu u kategoriji Kreativnoga i inovativnog projekta u kulturi. Zastupljeni izlagači djeluju unutar različitih kategorija dizajna te primijenjene i likovne umjetnosti tako da proizvodi često rezultiraju statistički rijetkim, individualiziranim i originalnim rješenjima. Posjetitelji mogu sudjelovati i u interaktivnim projektima koje vode umjetnici. Ove je godine Irena Frantal, koja je specijalizirala Umjetnost knjige na University of the Arts u Londonu, 2010., pripremila umjetnički projekt uvelike razmišljajući o galerijskom prostoru kao prostoru umjetničke knjige. Jedna je od novosti ovogodišnjeg Artomata u izradi vizualnog identiteta. - Ove godine vizualni identitet osmišljava studio U šumi. Riječ je o studiju umjetnika Luke Smetiška i Stjepana Milasa, koji spajaju klasične animirano filmske i novomedijske tehnike kroz vizualnu komunikaciju i umjetničku direkciju - ističe Ivana Čuljak, kreativna direktorica šestog Artomata. Na Artomatu nude se 152

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brojne besplatne kreativne radionice, sajam za djecu i odrasle, pod vodstvom umjetnika i dizajnera. - Ideja je od početka bila da se uz angažman različitih kreativaca omogući širenje znanja i vještina dostupnih svima, s ciljem da se potiče kreativan dijalog između različitih grupa unutar naše zajednice - napomenula je Gaella A. Gottwald, osnivačica Artomata. Tim projektom Zagreb je dobio izvrsnu platformu za umjetnički dijalog u regiji, ali i upoznavanje javnosti s prednostima lokalnih dizajnera kao i nizom drugih artističkih djelatnosti. 

ust before the start of Advent, Croatia’s capital Zagreb, following the style of many European cities, becomes a place with a rich cultural offer. The credit for Zagreb’s image goes also to Artomat, a platform which from the very beginning has brought together different participants on the creative scene, reaffirming many aspects of creative expression and harmonizing the exhibition and sales programs, as well as the educational and artistic and interactive programs. Artomat was launched in 2010 at the initiative

of the then director of the Croatian Association of Artists (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika - HDLU), Gaella Alexandra Gottwald, and since then has brought together diverse creative individuals and artists at the Home of Croatian Artists, where the event takes place for the sixth time from 16th to the 23rd of December. The project’s quality has been recognized at Creativity and Innovation Day, when Artomat won 1st prize in the category of Creative and Innovative Project/Program in Culture in 2013. The featured exhibitors work within different categories of design and applied and visual arts, and their creations often yield statistically rare, individualized and original solutions. Visitors can participate in interactive projects hosted by the artists. This year, Irena Frantal, who became a specialist in Book Arts at the University of the Arts in London in 2010 (MA Book Arts), is prepared an art project which extensively reflected on the gallery space as an artistic book space. Artomat’s visual identity will be designed by the studio U Šumi (In the Woods) this year. This is a studio run by artists Luka Smetiško and Stjepan Milas, who merge classical animated film and new media techniques through visual communication and artistic direction, as Ivana Čuljak, the creative director of the 6th Artomat, emphasizes. Artomat offers many free-ofcharge creative workshops guided by artists and designers which are intended for both children and adults. - From the very beginning, the idea was to engage diverse, creative people in order to spread knowledge and skills and make them available to everybody, with the aim of encouraging a creative dialogue between different groups within our community, emphasizes Gaella A. Gottwald, the founder of Artomat. With this project, Zagreb gets an excellent platform for artistic dialogue in the region and for making local designers’ comparative advantages known to the public, as well as a number of other artistic activities.  CROATIA AIRLINES

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PODRŽALI SMO WE HAVE SUPPORTED

Hrvatski judo, važan svjetski igrač Croatian judo, an important global player

Više od dvadeset milijuna ljudi diljem svijeta svaki se dan bavi judom. Međunarodna judo federacija (IJF) ima više od 195 nacionalnih saveza i pet kontinentalnih udruženja. U toj globalnoj obitelji hrvatski judoke imaju značajnu ulogu. Today, more than 20 million people practice judo around the world on a daily basis. The International Judo Federation (IJF) counts 195 national federations and 5 continental unions as members. Croatian judokas have significant role in this global family.

osljednji val počeo je 1999. godine sa Sašom Šafranićem i osvajanjem titule europskog juniorskog prvaka. Uspjehe je nastavila Marijana Mišković osvajanjem brončane medalje na Europskom prvenstvu 2009. godine. Godinu poslije, Tomislav Marijanović postao je prvi hrvatski judaš koji je osvojio Grand Slam turnir (Rio de Janeiro), a dodao je i europsko srebro 2013. godine. Nova generacija, predvođena sestrama Matić, Barbarom (21) i Brigitom (19), kao i Zlatkom Kumrićem (21), pokazuje kako bi mogla biti još značajniji faktor u svjetskom judu. Barbara Matić izazvala je veliko zanimanje osvajanjem dvostruke krune svjetske juniorske prvakinje (2013. i 2014.). Nastavila je sa skupljanjem medalja i na seniorskoj razini, kada je u Montpellieru osvojila europsku broncu. Njezina mlađa sestra, Brigita Matić, potvrdila je talent osvajanjem europskoga juniorskog srebra, koji je pojačala osvajanjem titule svjetske juniorske prvakinje 2015. godine. Tako je potvrđeno kako bi Olimpijske igre u Tokiju 2020. godine mogle biti prava poslastica za hrvatski judo. Kakav talent i kvaliteta dolaze iz Hrvatske, možda već i Igre u Rio de Janeiru 2016. budu takve. Izvrsni rezultati hrvatskih judoka pokazuju ne samo talent, nego i odličnu organizaciju te visoku razinu kvalitete rada trenera i Hrvatskog judo 154

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saveza (HJS). Potvrdila je to i Međunarodna judo federacija (IJF) koja je Hrvatskoj povjerila organizaciju Grand Prixa, jednoga od najvećih turnira u godišnjem judo kalendaru. Grand Prix održao se prve godine (2013.) u Rijeci, a 2014. preselio se u Zagreb. Organizacija Grand Prixa u Hrvatskoj dobila je pohvale i izvrsne povratne informacije judoka i sportskih dužnosnika iz cijelog svijeta. Slika judo natjecanja iz Zagreba prenošena je u 109 država svijeta, a 1500 judoka i judo dužnosnika posjeti Zagreb svake godine. Osobito je vrijedna pohvala sponzora koji hvale Grand Prix kao fantastično događanje koje pruža mogućnost promidžbe u Hrvatskoj, kao i diljem svijeta. Najvažnije od svega, hrvatski judo pokazuje kako radi značajne korake na svjetskoj razini i postaje još važniji čimbenik u svjetskom judu. 

t all started with Saša Šafranić winning European Junior Champion title in 1999. Marijana Mišković continued Saša’s success by taking bronze medal at European Championship in 2009. Year after that, Tomislav Marijanović became the first Croat to win a Grand Slam tournament (Rio de Janeiro) and added a European silver medal in 2013. New generation, led by sisters Matić, Barbara (21) and Brigita (19), and Zlatko Kumrić (21), is showing promises to make even greater

impact. Barbara Matić made a big hype after winning World Junior Championship two times in a row (2013 & 2014). She continued to collect medals on senior level after winning bronze in Montpellier (European Championship). Her younger sister, Brigita Matić, confirmed talent by winning European junior silver and World Junior Champion title in 2015, only to show Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 could be a real treat for Croatian judo family. Great results made by Croatian judokas showed not only talent, but also great organization and high quality work done by the coaches and Croatian Judo Federation (HJS). That was also confirmed by the IJF, that gave Croatia an opportunity to host a Grand Prix, one of the biggest tournaments in the judo calendar. Grand Prix was held in Rijeka in 2013 and after that moved to Zagreb in 2014. It got praises and great feedback from judokas and sport officials from all around the world. Grand Prix Zagreb was broadcasted in 109 countries worldwide, with 1500 judokas and judo officials visiting Zagreb. Sponsors praised Grand Prix as an amazing event which combined promotion in Croatia and all over the world. Most importantly, Croatian judo showed that is making great global steps and impact. 

Dobili smo Bijelu zastavu We won a White Flag Croatia Airlines jedan je od nositelja E-bijele zastave. Na prigodnoj svečanosti Krešimiru Kučku, predsjedniku Uprave Croatia Airlinesa, to vrijedno priznanje uručila je Doris Pinčić Rogoznica, ambasadorica Svjetske udruge za očuvanje i zaštitu mora, rijeka i jezera, organizacije koja je sa Zakladom princa Alberta II. pokrenula projekt Bijele zastave. Croatia Airlines is one of the holders of an E-White Flag. At an award ceremony, Krešimir Kučko, the President of the Management Board of Croatia Airlines, was presented with this valuable recognition by Doris Pinčić Rogoznica, the Ambassador of the International Union for the Conservation and Protection of the Seas, Rivers and Lakes, an organization that with the Foundation of Prince Albert II launched the White Flag project. Krešimir Kučko i Doris Pinčić Rogoznica

ijela je zastava jedinstven i ekskluzivan ekološki simbol u svijetu. Taj simbol jedinstven je na mnogo načina, ali najviše od svega zbog svoje koncepcije. Ne možete ga kupiti, morate ga zaraditi, a to se postiže jedino konstantnim radom na očuvanju i čišćenju morskog dna. Taj simbol prvi je primio princ Albert II. od Monaka 2013. godine od Kristijana Curavića. Nakon princa Alberta II. od Monaka, Bijelu zastavu primio je slovenski predsjednik Borut Pahor i makedonski predsjednik George Ivanov. Kako bi dobili taj ugledni simbol, predsjednici moraju biti aktivno uključeni u očuvanje mora, rijeka i jezera. Kako bi dobio Bijelu zastavu, vlasnik plaže, dijela obale ili bilo kojega drugog mjesta, treba pozvati ronioce koji izlaze na teren i potpuno čiste morsko dno od toksičnog otpada i smeća što se nalazi na dnu. Nakon čišćenja, inspektor Bijele zastave provjerava morsko dno i ako je potpuno očišćeno, daje dozvolu za provedbu ceremonijalne dodjele Bijele zastave. Nakon čišćenja i pregleda dna Bijela zastava dodjeljuje se direktoru hotela, plaže ili marine. Vlasnici Bijele zastave s ponosom nose taj simbol čistog podmorja, jer njima predstavlja veliku važnost. Bijela zastava jedina je potvr-

da na svijetu koja može jamčiti da je plaža uistinu čista i sigurna za sav morski život. Svi nositelji tog simbola moraju platiti godišnju licenciju uz pomoć koje White Flag International organizira World Aqua Day. World Aqua Day najveća je svjetska podvodna akcija čišćenja mora, rijeka i jezera, a organizira se jedanput godišnje. Tu akciju službeno otvaraju predsjednici zemalja, kraljevske obitelji i čelnici neke zemlje. Drugu akciju World Aqua Day organizirao je i otvorio princ Albert II. od Monaka i GUWAA na čelu s Kristijanom Curavićem (CEO). Više od 60 zemalja širom svijeta svake godine sudjeluje u toj akciji. Više od 200 tona smeća izvađeno je iz mora, rijeka i jezera pod vodstvom White Flag International. Oni koji nose taj ekskluzivni znak izravno pridonose očuvanju, zaštiti i čišćenju svjetskih voda, a mogu se pohvaliti i kako se međusobno vizualno raspoznaju u svijetu. Vizualna diferencijacija jedna je od najvećih prednosti Bijele zastave i istinska snaga njezinoga koncepta Djeluj lokalno, misli globalno. Bijela zastava govori o ljudima, ona daje priliku svakome da se na neki način uključi u ekologiju. Nakon što postanete nositelj Bijele zastave, postajete i zaštitnik vodenog svijeta, i to je jedan od razloga za posjetioce da uvijek odaberu hotel ili plažu koja je nositelj tog simbola. CROATIA AIRLINES

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White Flag International ima i mnoge druge projekte, a svi su usmjereni prema očuvanju mora, jezera i rijeka. Jedan od poznatih projekata je S.P.E.E.D. UNIT (special protection ecology environment diving unit). Riječ je o skupini posebno treniranih ronilaca koji putuju diljem Europe i čiste podmorje čvrsto surađujući s lokalnim ronilačkim centrima. Ta posebna skupina ronilaca izvadi više od 150 tona smeća godišnje, koje se nalazi u morima, jezerima i rijekama, samo rukama, što je veoma težak posao. Njih financira licencija koju nosioci Bijele zastave plaćaju svake godine. Ne treba predugo za shvaćanje koncepta Bijele zastave. Ona je fokusirana na zaštiti i očuvanju svjetskih voda u kojima se 70 posto plastike nalazi na morskome dnu, a 30 posto pluta na površini. Bijela zastava u elektroničkom obliku (E-White Flag) daje se velikim korporacijama koje nisu izravno vezane za mora, jezera i rijeke. Te tvrtke dobile su priliku postati nositelji Bijele zastave zbog toga što su pridonijele čišćenju voda u svijetu. U Hrvatskoj jedan od nositelja jest Cinestar, a sada je i Croatia Airlines postao ponosni nositelj E-Bijele zastave. Između nositelja Bijele zastave stvara se sinergija te svi oni zajedno čine svijet boljim mjestom i zajedničkim snagama postižu krajnji rezultati očišćena mora, jezera i rijeke. Svaki od partnera u svim projektima ključan je za rad i daljnje razvijanje koncepta Bijele zastave. Ona će od sljedeće godine biti prisutna u više od 30 zemalja diljem svijeta. Prvi put u povijesti stvoren je konsenzus između ljudi i svi zajedno sada rade za isti cilj - očuvanje, zaštita i čišćenje našega najdragocjenijeg prirodnog 156

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resursa bez kojega ni jedan živi organizam na ovom planetu ne može živjeti, uključujući i nas. Postanite vlasnik, napravite razliku u svijetu, očuvajte ovaj plavi pokrivač pod nazivom more i sljedećim generacijama. Posjetite Whiteflaginternational.com 

hite Flag International is a unique and exclusive ecological symbol in the world. It is unique in many ways but most of all because of its concept. You can’t buy it, you need to earn it and you will earn it only if you truly want to make a difference in the ocean bed preservation and cleaning. This symbol was first given to HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco in 2013. by Kristijan Curavić. After Prince Albert II of Monaco, it was given to Slovenian president Borut Pahor and to Macedonian president George Ivanov. In order to get this prestige symbol they really had to be involved in ocean, lakes and rivers cleaning. In order to get the White Flag, owner of the beach, seaside or any other location, needs to send scuba divers to the bottom of the sea to completely clean all the toxic waste and garbage from the bottom. After cleaning,

White Flag inspector checks the bottom and, only if it’s clean, gives the ok sign for the White Flag award ceremony. After cleaning and inspection White Flag is being awarded to the director of the hotel, beach or marina. White Flag owners are proud to wear this symbol of clean seabed and it holds a great value for them. White Flag is the only certificate in the world that can guarantee that your beach is truly clean and safe for marine animals. While carrying this symbol the holders are obligated to pay yearly license which is going to White Flag International to organize World Aqua Day. World Aqua Day has become the biggest world underwater clean up of oceans, lakes and rivers and it is organized once a year. It is officially opened by presidents, royal families and country leaders. The 2nd world under water clean up was organized and opened by HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco and Guwaa CEO Kristijan Curavić. World under water clean up has more than 60 countries around the world participating in this action. More than 200 tons of garbage was taken out from the oceans, lakes and

rivers under the White Flag International. Those that carry this exclusive sign are directly contributing to preservation, protection and cleaning of the world waters and can be proud of truly making a visual difference in the world. This is one of the biggest strengths of the White Flag International and the true power of its concept. Act locally , think globally. White flag is about people, its about giving chance to everyone to be somehow involved in ecology. Once you enter the White Flag establishment you are becoming a world water protector and this is one of the reasons for people to always choose a hotel or beach that is a White Flag holder. White Flag International has many other projects but all of them are directed only towards the oceans, lakes and rivers protection. One of the famous projects is S.P.E.E.D. UNIT (special protection ecology environment diving unit), this is a group of highly train divers who are travelling around the Europe and performing underwater clean ups in close cooperation with local divers. This special group is taking more than 150 tons of garbage form the seas, lakes and rivers just by hands which

is extremely difficult job. This group of divers are financed by the licences that White Flag holders pay every year. It doesn’t take too long to understand the concept of the White Flag. White Flag focuses on protection and preservation of world waters, where 70% of all plastic lies at the bottom and 30% floats around the ocean. E-Whiteflag is being given to big corporations that are not directly bind to the seas, lakes and rivers. These companies are given the chance to become White Flag holders and contribute to cleaning waters of the world. In Croatia one of the holders is Cinestar and now Croatia Airlines has become a proud holder of the White lag. Between White Flag holders a synergy is being created and when all of them come together the world becomes a better place and we have cleaned oceans, lakes and rivers as a final results. Each of these partners are crucial to making this concept work. White Flag is going to be given to more than 30 countries around the world only in the next year. Alliances are being created and for the first time in history of human kind, we are standing together and working for the same

purpose and goals. Preservation, protection and cleaning of our most precious natural resource which no living organisms can live without on this planet, including ourselves. Become an owner, make a difference in the world, leave this blue blanket called the ocean clean for the next generation. Whiteflaginternational.com 

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PODRŽALI SMO WE HAVE SUPPORTED

Mala škola zrakoplovstva A little school of aviation Djeca su imala prigodu, barem na trenutak, upravljati zrakoplovom. Mnogi od njih izrazili su želju da i oni jednog dana sjednu u najviši ured na svijetu.

temi Zrakoplovstvo, a učenici osmih razreda napisati pismeni sastavak o istoj temi. U dvadesetak dana nagradnog natječaja stiglo je uistinu mnogo prekrasnih i maštovitih likovnih radova (u različitim likovnim tehnikama), kao i dvadesetak literarnih uradaka. Na kraju, najkreativnijim likovnim radom proglašen je zajednički rad Dominika Padjena i Ivana Mikloške iz 4.b razreda Osnovne

Katarina Roganić 4.b

Luka Šantek 4.b

Anamarija Suntešić, 4.b

P. Strmecki

The children had an opportunity, at least for a moment, to steer the plane. Many of them expressed a desire to one day work in the highest office in the world.

redinom rujna pokrenuli smo natječaj Mala škola zrakoplovstva Croatia Airlinesa, kojim se učenicima četvrtih i osmih razreda osnovnih škola s područja grada Zagreba i Velike Gorice pružila mogućnost da osvoje edukativni posjet našemu Tehničkom središtu u MZL Zagreb. Da bi sudjelovali u natječaju, učenici četvrtih razreda trebali su izraditi likovne radove o

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Josip Tomljanović 4.c

Julija Dundović 4.a

P. Strmecki

In a span of about twenty days, we received many beautiful and imaginative works of art (in a variety of artistic techniques), as well as about twenty literary works.

In the end, the work of Dominik Padjen and Ivana Mikloška in Grade 4B at Borovje Elementary School was selected as the most creative piece of art work. According to the panel of judges, Anica Perkovic in Grade 8B at Lučko Elementary School wrote the most creative essay. The award-winning works have been published on our website and on Facebook. As each winning student nominated their entire class, the above-mentioned classes won the right to participate in the Little School of Aviation, which was held on 20 October 2015. On that day, students had a unique opportunity to see the exterior and interior of Airbus 319, and participate in educational lectures on civil aviation and learn the secrets of flying. An indispensable part of the visit was the cockpit, where the children had an opportunity, at least for a moment, to steer the plane. Many of them expressed a desire to one day work in the most beautiful office in the world. At the end of this educational and entertaining project, the students, teachers and representatives of Croatia Airlines were photographed in front of Airbus 319. 

škole Borovje. Anica Perković iz 8.b razreda Osnovne škole Lučko napisala je, po ocjeni žirija, najkreativniji sastavak. Nagrađeni radovi objavljeni su na našoj internetskoj i Facebook stranici. Kako je svaki učenik svojim radom nominirao svoj cijeli razred, navedeni razredni odjeli osvojili su sudjelovanje u Maloj školi zrakoplovstva 20. listopada. Učenici su toga dana imali jedinstvenu priliku razgledati vanjski dio i unutrašnjost Airbusa 319, a održana su im i edukativna predavanja o civilnom zrakoplovstvu i tajnama letenja. Neizostavan je bio i posjet pilotskoj kabini, gdje su djeca imala prigodu, barem na trenutak, upravljati zrakoplovom. Mnogi od njih izrazili su želju da i oni jednog dana sjednu u najviši ured na svijetu. Na završetku toga edukativno-zabavnog projekta organizirano je fotografiranje učenika, učitelja i predstavnika Croatia Airlinesa ispred zrakoplova Airbus 319. 

n mid-September, we launched a competition, Croatia Airlines’ Little School of Aviation, which gave students in the fourth and eighth grade of primary schools in the city of Zagreb and Velika Gorica an opportunity to win an educational visit to our Technical Center at Zagreb International Airport. To participate in the contest, fourth-grade students were asked to create works of art on the theme of aviation, and eighth-grade students were assigned an essay to write on the same subject.

Dominik Padjen, Ivan Mikloška, 4.b CROATIA AIRLINES

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Vatra u nebeskim visinama Vatra in the heavenly skies VATRA'S CONCERT ON OUR AIRCRAFT In cooperation with the music portal Muzika. hr, on 6 October 2015, during our OU668 Zagreb -Dubrovnik flight, our company offered a unique surprise - a concert by the band Vatra. This was the first concert ever held on a commercial flight in this region, and yet globally there are few bands that can boast a performance at the height of 10,000 meters. At one point, to the surprise of 140 passengers, this one-hour flight from Zagreb to Dubrovnik became a concert hall for the band Vatra. None of the passengers even tried to hide their amazement at this extraordinary event, especially when the Airbus 319 passenger cabin filled with the melody and lyrics of their big hit Tango. Our passengers had the opportunity to attend an unforgettable event, a concert in the sky, which marked the beginning of Vatra’s promotion of their new album Zmajevi na vjetru (Dragons in the Wind).

Jednosatni let iz Zagreba u Dubrovnik u jednom je trenutku, na iznenađenje 140 putnika, postao koncertna dvorana grupe Vatra. At one point, to the surprise of 140 passengers, this one-hour flight from Zagreb to Dubrovnik became a concert hall for the band Vatra.

Matej Dokić/Gloria

KONCERT VATRE U NAŠEM ZRAKOPLOVU Naša je tvrtka u suradnji s glazbenim portalom Muzika.hr putnicima na letu OU668 Zagreb-Dubrovnik 6. listopada o.g. priredila neobično iznenađenje - koncert rock-benda Vatra. Riječ je o prvom koncertu održanom na komercijalnom letu na ovim prostorima, a i u svijetu su rijetki bendovi koji se mogu pohvaliti nastupom na 10.000 metara visine. Jednosatni let iz Zagreba u Dubrovnik u jednom je trenutku, na iznenađenje 140 putnika, postao koncertna dvorana grupe Vatra. Nitko od putnika nije skrivao oduševljenje tim nesvakidašnjim događajem, osobito u trenucima kada su putničku kabinu Airbusa 319 ispunili melodija i stihovi velikog hita Tango. Tako su putnici imali priliku prisustvovati koncertu u zrakoplovu, kojim je Vatra počela promidžbu svoga novog albuma Zmajevi na vjetru.

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D. Fabijanić

SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 165 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED

168 NOVOSTI NEWS

170 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 173 FLOTA FLEET 175 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 177 ZRA»NE LUKE AIRPORTS 178 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 180 ADRESE S. Jungić

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THE WAY TO FLY THROUGH A WIDER CHOICE OF HUBS With over 50 global airport hubs, we give you more travel options than any other alliance. staralliance.com

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Miles & More

Osnove programa Miles & More

Introducing Miles & More

Miles & More vodeÊi je program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima razliËite moguÊnosti prikup ljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih partnera u programu. Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija partnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kartica Miles & More.

Miles & More is the leading frequent flyer programme in Europe, offering its members numerous possibilites for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attrac tive privileges. Members collect miles by using the services of many partners in the programme. Miles are credited for flights of all Star Alliance members and other airline partners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car partners or staying in participating hotels.

Razredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπtenjem usluga partnera u programu Miles & More prikupljate nagradne milje koje se mogu iskoristiti za nagrade. Statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status, na temelju kojega ostvarujete pogodnosti, prikupljaju se na redovitim letovima prijevoznika Croatia

Tiers and benefits By using the Miles & More partners’ services members collect awards. Status miles which determine a member’s membership status and privileges can be accrued on scheduled flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa CROATIA AIRLINES

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Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa Regional, Luxair, SWISS, i svim Star Alliance partnerima. Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendar skoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËekuje vas status Senator. »lanovi koji prikupe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u razdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalen darske godine, stjeËu status HON Circle.

Regional, Luxair, SWISS, and all Star Alliance partners. Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile. With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members acquire the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, acquire the HON Cir cle status.

Pogodnosti statusa Frequent Traveller - Executive Bonus − 25 posto više nagradnih, statusnih i HON Circle milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja sta tusa - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda - veÊi iznos prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji te razredu prijevoza. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa dva komada prtljage u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu.

Frequent Traveller privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 % for award, status and HON Circle miles - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Business Class counter - Increased free baggage allowance depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On flights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in total (Economy or Business).

Pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus − 25 posto više nagradnih i statusnih HON Circle milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja sta tusa - predujam od 50.000 nagradnih milja - uporaba Lufthansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lo unge partnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog razreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezervacije do 48 sati u najvišoj klasi knjiženja u ekonomskome i poslovnom razredu - prednost pri ukrcaju i iskrcaju prtljage - dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa dva komada prtljage u ekonomskom, tri komada prtljage u poslovnom razredu - 2 e-vouchera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade), prilikom postizanja statusa Senator te prilikom svake obnove statusa. - Senator Premium Award - Companion Award

Senator privileges - Executive Bonus of 25% for award, status and HON Circle miles - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Miles advance of up to 50,000 award miles - Acc es s to the Luf thans a Sen ator Lou ng e as well as to the Star Gold Lou ng es of Star Allia nc e partners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 hours before departure in the highest booking class in Business and Economy class - priority baggage handling - An additional bag depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On flights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in Economy, 3 bags in Business - 2 e- Upgrade Vouchers on achieving Senator status and for every Senator status renewal. - Senator Premium Award - Companion award

Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Senator, najviša prednost na listi Ëekanja - predujam od 100.000 nagradnih milja - Status Senator za supruænika ili partnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - 6 e-vouchera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade) prilikom postizanja statusa HON Circle te prilikom svake obnove statusa - dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa dva komada prtljage u ekonomskom, tri komada prtljage u poslovnom razredu

HON Circle privileges - All existing Senator privileges highest waiting list priority - 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or partner depending on the airline - 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers when becoming an HON Circle Member and every time the status is extended - An additional bag depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On flights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in Economy, 3 bags Business

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Troπite milje

Spend miles

Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagra de: nagradne zrakoplovne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), razliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (Miles & More hotelski partneri, Miles & More rent-a-car partneri), kupnju te u Lufthansa WorldShopu.

You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: flight awards, upgrades, various travel awards (Miles & More hotel partners, Miles & More car rental partners), shopping and lifestyle awards, and Lufthansa WorldShop.

Zatraæite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu!

Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card!

5 kuna = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 5 kuna potro πenih preko ove kartice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja

5 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile

n Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda − jednostavno pla Êajte svojom Diners Club karticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu.

Collect award miles ever y where − simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad

n 2 kartice − 1 raËun Miles & More − koristite li se isto dobno privatnom i poslovnom karticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More.

n 2 cre d it card s − 1 Miles & More memb ers hip account − use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.

Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu!

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card!

Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potroπnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paketu 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Zatraæite svoju Croatia Airlines American Express kre ditnu kar ticu!

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express cre dit card!

4 kune = 1 nagradna milja − za svake 4 kune potroπene preko Premium kartice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odno sno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kartice

n 4 HRK = 1 award mi le − for every 4 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile.

2500 milja dobrodoπlice − za nove osnovne Premi um korisnike i 1250 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike

n 2.500 welcome miles − for new ba sic Premium card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new additional Premi um card users.

1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Stan dard korisnike

Dvostruke nagradne milje − za potroπnju u poslovnica ma Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travel American Expressa

1.500 welcome miles − for new basic Standard card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Stan dard card users.

Earn double award miles − using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales of fices and PBZ Card Travel American Expressa.

n Besplatno uËlanjenje u Priority Pass program koji vam omoguÊava pristup u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama (uz naknadu za pristup). Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com

n Free Priority Pass programme enrollment − it enables you to access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges (visit charge applicable). Please find detailed info at: www.miles-and-more.com

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ZelEn - POKREĆE NAS ZELENA ELEKTRIČNA ENERGIJA I ove je godine Croatia Airlines kupio certifikat za ZelEn, novi proizvod HEP Opskrbe. Naziv ZelEn kombinacija je riječi Zelena Energija, što je ujedno i osnovna sastavnica proizvoda - električna energija dobivena isključivo iz obnovljivih izvora. ZelEn je namijenjen kupcima HEP Opskrbe koji su se u svom poslovanju odlučili za društveno odgovorno poslovanje, brigu o okolišu i korištenju energije iz obnovljivih izvora. ZelEn - WE USE GREEN ELECTRICITY This year again, Croatia Airlines acquired the ZelEn certification. ZelEn is a new product of HEP Opskrba. The name ZelEn is coined from the words Zelena Energija (Green Energy), which is also the main characteristic of the product - electricity obtained solely from renewable sources. ZelEn is intended for customers of HEP Opskrba who have decided to implement corporate social responsibility, environmental protection and the use of energy from renewable sources in their operations. VRIJEDNO PRIZNANJE ZA NAŠU RIJEČKU POSLOVNICU U ovogodišnjoj akciji Volim Hrvatsku - Volim Rijeku, koju su organizirali Grad Rijeka i Turistička zajednica Grada Rijeke, naša riječka poslovnica dobila je priznanje za kontinuiran doprinos kvaliteti turizma i promidžbi Rijeke. Riječ je o vrijednom priznanju, koje se temelji na mišljenju korisnika usluga. Naime, u sklo-

pu podakcije Tajni kupac, u kojoj se tijekom turističke sezone mjerila kvaliteta usluge gostima i hrvatskim građanima, naša poslovnica uvrstila se među najbolje ocijenjene objekte na području grada Rijeke. Priznanja su 21. listopada svečano podijelili Veljko Obersnel, riječki gradonačelnik, i Petar Škampa, direktor TZ Grada Rijeke, a u ime Croatia Airlinesa priznanje je primila voditeljica naše riječke poslovnice Marina Cossuta Razumović. VALUABLE RECOGNITION OF OUR RIJEKA SALES OFFICE In this year’s campaign I love Croatia - I love Rijeka, organized by the City of Rijeka and the Tourist Board of the City of Rijeka, our

Rijeka sales office received recognition for its continuous contribution to the quality of tourism and promotion of Rijeka. It is a valuable recognition, based on the opinions of the service users. As part of the Mystery Shopper sub-campaign to measure the quality of services provided to foreign and Croatian visitors during the last tourist season, our sales office was ranked among the top-rated facilities in the city of Rijeka. At the award ceremony, held on 21 October, the acknowledgments were presented by Veljko Obersnel, Mayor of Rijeka, and Petar Škampa, the director of the Tourist Board of the City of Rijeka. Marina Cossuta Razumović, the head of the Rijeka sales office, accepted the award on behalf of Croatia Airlines. HUMANITARNA AKCIJA SELFIE OD SRCA Sredinom mjeseca studenoga naša tvrtka pokrenula je humanitarnu akciju Selfie od srca kako bi se u javnosti još više razvila svijest o kardiološkim bolestima djece, a pritom se svi hrvatski građani imaju priliku aktivno uključiti i dati osobni doprinos. Preko aplikacije Selfie od srca na Facebook stranici Croatia Airlinesa treba objaviti selfie fotografiju s oznakom #selfieodsrca. Za svaki objavljeni selfie Croatia Airlines donirat će 10 kuna, a ukupni iznos prikupljen u toj akciji upotrijebit će se za kupnju trake za ergospirometriju, koja će se zatim donirati Odjelu kardiologije Opće bolnice u Dubrovniku.

CMY

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CHARITY CAMPAIGN SELFIE FROM YOUR HEART In mid-November, our company launched the humanitarian campaign Selfie From Your Heart to further raise public awareness of cardiac diseases in children. All Croatian citizens have the opportunity to actively participate in the campaign and make their personal contribution. Via the Selfie From Your Heart application on Croatia Airlines’ Facebook page, you need to publish a selfie photograph labelled #selfieodsrca. For every published selfie Croatia Airlines will donate 10 kuna, and the total amount raised in this campaign will be used to buy the treadmill for ergospirometry tests, which will be donated to the Department of Cardiology of the General Hospital in Dubrovnik. FlyMobile - NOVI PRODAJNI KANAL Croatia Airlines odnedavno ima dostupan novi prodajni kanal - FlyMobile. FlyMobile omogućava korisnicima kupnju karte preko mobilnih uređaja na adresi m.croatiaairlines.com, na hrvatskom i engleskom jeziku. Sada svoju kartu možete kupiti još jednostavnije i lakše. FlyMobile - A NEW SALES CHANNEL Croatia Airlines has recently introduced a new sales channel - FlyMobile. FlyMobile allows users to buy tickets via mobile devices at m.croatiaairlines.com, operating in the Croatian and English language. Now you can buy your ticket in an even simpler and easier manner. INFLIGHT.pdf

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POKLON-BON Croatia Airlines nudi mogućnost kupnje poklon-bona kojim možete razveseliti svoje najmilije putovanjem do svjetskih odredišta. Poklon-bon može biti plaćen u bilo kojem iznosu, a primjenjuje se na sve karte kupljene u Croatia Airlinesu, bez obzira na to putuje li se Croatia Airlinesom ili nekom drugom kompanijom. Poklon-bon može se kupiti u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i u Kontakt centru (072 500 505 i 01 6676 555).

GIFT CERTIFICATE Croatia Airlines offers the option to purchase gift certificate to treat your loved ones to travels to international destinations. Gift certificate can be paid for in any amount, and they apply to all tickets purchased at Croatia Airlines, regardless of whether the person is flying Croatia Airlines or some other company. Gift certificate can be purchased at Croatia Airlines and via the Contact Centre (072 500 505 and 01 555 6676).

Volim putovati! I love to travel!

Prikupljajte nagradne milje, iskoristite besplatnu uslugu hrane i pića na letu kao i pogodnost web check-ina.

croatiaairlines.hr

Earn miles, get free drinks and snacks on board and take advantage of web check-in at no additional cost.

072 500 505, +385 1 6676 555 CROATIA AIRLINES 169 My airline.

RU»NA PRTLJAGA

Sluπalice za suzbijanje buke Digitalni audio/MP3 ureaj n ElektroniËke igre n e-ËitaË n Prijenosna/Notebook raËunala n Prijenosni DVD/CD ureaj n Bluetooth ureaji n Kamere n Medicinski ureaji n ElektriËni brijaÊi aparat n n

P. Strmečki

Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda: 1 komad n maksimalna teæina 8 kg n zbroj dimenzija do 115 cm (55x40x20) Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike poslovnog razreda: 2 komada n maksimalna teæina 8 kg po komadu n zbroj dimenzija maksimalno 115 cm (55x40x20) ili 57x54x15cm (etui za odijela) Radi ograniËenog spremiπnog prostora u putniËkoj kabini te kada je veÊa popunjenost zrakoplova, i dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga bit Êe Ëekirana i spremljena u prtljaæni prostor.

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije. UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi. RED SJEDENJA

D. Fabijanić

Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.

UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta. ELEKTRONIČKI URE�AJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja dopuπtena je iskljuËivo u zrakoplovnom radu, teæe i veÊe ureaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obveznog vezivanja. Popis dopuπtenih elektroniËkih naprava: n Mobilni/Smart telefoni n Tablet raËunala

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva. USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U naπim zrakoplovima posluæujemo hranu i napitke bez naplate. U poslovnom razredu na svim letovima usluga ukljuËuje birana hrvatska jela, alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te izbor domaÊega i stranog tiska. U ekonomskom razredu usluga ovisi o vrsti i duljini leta. Na domaÊim letovima posluæuje se samo voda, a na meunarodnim letovima usluga se sastoji od snacka i ponude piÊa. Na veoma kratkim letovima putnicima nudimo samo vodu, a na duljim letovima u ponudi su alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te topli napitci. IskljuËivo u poslovnom razredu moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed (vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed). Putnicima nije dopuπteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Alkoholiziranim putnicima ne posluæuju se alkoholna piÊa. Puπenje je zabranjeno tijekom boravka u zrakoplovu. Toaleti su opremljeni detektorima dima. 

Faze leta u kojima je dopuštena upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja Faze leta Mobilni/ Smart telefoni, Tablet

Prijenosno raËunalo

Sluπalice za suzbijanje buke

Funkcija teksta/razgovora

Ukrcavanje

Kaπnjenje u polasku

Taksiranje za polijetanje

DA*

Polijetanje DA

NE DA*

Tijekom leta

Spuπtanje

NE DA*

Slijetanje

DA*

Taksiranje

DA*

*U navedenim fazama nije dopuπteno rabiti sluπalice prikljuËene na audio/MP3 ureaje

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DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our first and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight. Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight.

HAND BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE Economy Class passengers: 1 piece n max. weight 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) Business Class passengers: 2 pieces n max. weight per piece 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) or 57x54x15cm if it is a foldable garment bag Due to a limited storage space and when a flight is fully booked even approved carry-on baggage will be checked-in and stowed in cargo compartments.

S. Jungić

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing.

PERSONAL ELECTRONIC DEVICES Electronic devices may only be used if they are in flight mode. Bulky personal electronic devices must be securely stowed whenever the seat belt sign is turned on. List of approved personal electronic devices: n Mobile/Smart phones n Tablet computers n Noise-cancelling headphones n Digital audio/MP3 player n Electronic games

RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, firearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers.

We serve food and beverages free of charge in our aircraft. In business class on all flights the services include a choice of Croatian foods, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, as well as a choice of domestic and foreign print media. Our services in economy class depend on the type and length of the flight. On domestic flights we serve only water, and on international flights our services include snacks and an offer of beverages. On very short flights our passengers are offered only water, and on longer flights they are offered alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages as well as hot drinks. In business class only you can order a special meal when purchasing your tickets, however, this must be done at least 24 hours ahead (vegetarian, Muslim, diet, but kosher meals must be ordered 48 hours ahead). Passengers are not allowed to consume their own alcoholic beverages. Passengers that are considered under the influence of alcohol are not served alcoholic beverages. smoking is forbidden in the aircraft. The toilets are equipped with smoke detectors. 

Use of electronic devices during different flight phases Flight phase

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s

IN-FLIGHT SERVICES

Please read the instructions below, important for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT

e-Readers Laptop/Notebook computers n Portable DVD/CD player n Bluetooth devices n Personal cameras n Assistive medical devices n Electric shaver n

Hand Held PEDs (i.e. smart phones and tablets)

Larger PEDs (i.e. Laptops and notebooks)

Noise- cancelling Headphones

Text and phone functions

Boarding

YES

Extended Ground Delay

YES

Taxi-out for Take-off

YES

YES*

Take-off

YES

YES* NO

Cruise

YES

Descent

YES

YES* NO

Landing

YES

YES*

Taxi to Stand

YES

YES*

YES

*During critical phases of flight headphones must not be plugged to audio/MP3 players. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Rezervacije: partner.sixt.de/croatia-airlines 172 CROATIA AIRLINES

Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144

Airbus 320-200

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Airbus 319-100

Dash 8-Q400

Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES

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•

TRONDHEIM

BERGEN

St. Petersburg Aberdeen

STAVANGER

Edinburg Belfast Dublin

Manchester

VILNIUS GDANSK

Berlin Kassel Dusseldorf

POZNAN

Chisinau Lyon

Turin

PORTO

Venice Rijeka

Genoa Nice

Madrid

Osijek Belgrade Bucharest

BraË Barcelona

Podgorica Bari Tirana

Palermo Catania

Athens

Beirut Damascus Tel Aviv Jerusalem Amman ■ linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services

■ u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama

in cooperation with partner airline

Partneri / Partners: Air France

Alitalia

Austrian Airlines

Brussels Airlines

KLM

LOT Polish Airlines

Lufthansa

SAS

Singapore Airlines

Swiss International Air Lines

Turkish Airlines

United Airlines

TAP Portugal

TAP PORTUGAL

Air Canada

CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES

ZRA NE LUKE AIRPORTS

Ako ste spremni za polazak... If you are ready to go...

Dolazni terminali / Arrival terminals

FlyMobile - kupnja aviokarata preko mobilnih uređaja Organizirajte svoje putovanje bilo kad i bilo gdje koristeći svoj mobilni uređaj. Proces kupnje odvija se u nekoliko jednostavnih koraka brzo i pouzdano. - flight ticket purchase on mobile devices Organize your travels no matter when or where. Purchasing process is fast and reliable, consiting of several easy steps.

ODREDIŠTE / DESTINATION AMSTERDAM (AMS) ATHENS (ATH) BARCELONA (BCN) BELGRADE (BEG) BRUSSELS (BRU) PARIS (CDG) COPENHAGEN (CPH) DUSSELDORF (DUS) ROME (FCO) FRANKFURT (FRA) LONDON GATWICK (LGW) LONDON HEATHROW (LHR) LYON (LYS) MUNICH (MUC) NICE (NCE) PRISHTINA (PRN) SARAJEVO (SJJ) SKOPJE (SKP) TEL AVIV (TLV) BERLIN (TXL) VENICE (VCE) VIENNA (VIE) ZURICH (ZRH)

TERMINAL terminal 3 main terminal terminal 1 terminal 2 terminal B terminal 2D terminal 2 terminal A terminal 3 terminal 1 terminal S terminal 2 terminal 1 terminal 2 terminal 2 main terminal terminal B main terminal terminal 3 terminal A, C main terminal terminal 3 terminal 2

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information

plesoprijevoz@plesoprijevoz.hr

m.croatiaairlines.com

ZRAČNA LUKA / AIRPORT Schiphol Amsterdam Airport Athens International Airport Barcelona El Prat Airport Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport Brussels Airport Zaventem Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport Copenhagen Airport Düsseldorf Airport Leonardo da Vinci - Fiumicino Airport Frankfurt Airport Gatwick Airport Heathrow Airport Lyon Saint-Exupery International Airport Munich Airport Nice Côte d'Azur International Airport Pristina International Airport Sarajevo International Airport Skopje Alexander the Great Airport Ben Gurion International Airport Berlin Tegel Airport Venice Marco Polo Airport Vienna Airport Zurich Airport

www.plesoprijevoz.hr

ZAGREB

Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) prema Zračnoj luci Zagreb Departures daily from the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb) to the Zagreb International Airport: 5.00 - 5.30 - 6.00 - 6.30 - 7.00 - 7.30 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 10.00 - 10.30 - 11.00 - 11.30 - 12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 13.30- 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 - 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Polasci svakog dana iz Zračne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) Departures daily from the Zagreb International Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb): 7.00 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 9.30 - 10.30 - 11.30 -12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 - 13.30 - 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Za više informacija, molimo nazovite / For more information, please call: ZAGREB (01) 6331-982, 6331-999 SPLIT (021) 203-508 DUBROVNIK (020) 773-377 ZADAR (020) 250-094

RIJEKA (051) 330-207, 336-757 CROATIA AIRLINES

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Marijana Grašovec

Dragi putnici! Zahvaljujemo vam na prekrasnim fotografijama koje dijelite s nama. Zima nam je pred vratima, pa neka vam zimske radosti i božićni ugođaj budu nadahnuće za nastajanje novih zanimljivih fotografija. Šaljite nam svoje fotografije uz jednu rečenicu u kojoj objašnjavate zašto volite putovati i sudjelujte u našem nagradnom natječaju. Pobjednika ćemo nagraditi s dvije povratne aviokarte po izboru za neko od odredišta Croatia Airlinesa, a dva će dobitnika primiti poklon-pakete. Fotografiju autorice Marine Gruić odabrali smo kao najbolju u ovome broju te je nagrađujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa. Promidžbenim poklon-paketom nagradit ćemo Katarinu Pilić i Marijanu Grašovec. I dalje vas pozivamo da nam šaljete vaše fotografije s neobičnih i zanimljivih mjesta s putovanja, jer i u idućem broju očekuju vas vrijedne nagrade. Posjetite našu web stranicu www.croatiaairlines.hr (Ponude/Nagradne igre i natječaji), pogledajte uvjete nagradnog natječaja i sudjelujte!

Volim putovanja jer na njima se, bez obzira na to koliko daleko bila od kuće, osjećam kao da sam doma.

Katarina Pilić

I love travelling because no matter how far I am from home, I feel like I am home!

Djeca putuju u mašti. Ja putujem kao dijete, ali u stvarnosti.

Dear passengers! Thank you for the wonderful photographs you have been sending us of your travels. Winter is just ahead of us and we hope that the joys of winter and the Christmas atmosphere will inspire you to create many new and interesting photos. Send us your photographs accompanied by a sentence which explains why you like travelling and take part in the photo contest. We will award the first prize winner with two return tickets on Croatia Airlines to a destination of your choice, while the second and third place winners will receive promotional packages. We have selected Marina Gruić as the author of the best photo in this issue; she is the winner of two Croatia Airlines return air tickets. Katarina Pilić and Marijana Grašovec have won promotional gift packages. We invite you to continue sending us your photographs from unusual and interesting places of your travels, because in the next issue valuable prizes await you again. Visit our web page, www.croatiaairlines.hr (Offers/Contests and competitions), see the conditions, and take part in the contest!

Children travel with their imagination. I travel like a child, but in reality.

I love traveling because it makes taking unique photos possible.

178

CROATIA AIRLINES

Marina Gruić

Volim putovanja jer omogućuju neponovljive fotografije.

ZAGREB CARD Make ZAGREB CARD your irreplaceable travel companion in the capital of Croatia! ZAGREB CARD offers you unlimited travel on public transport, discounts in the city museums, reduced prices at many restaurants, shops, and much more… More information is available at: www.zagrebcard.vestars.hr .

ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD

CROATIA AIRLINES

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Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 6160 153 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/uprava@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 072-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 18:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 15:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 072 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Brojevi telefonskog check-ina / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Bruxelles 1930 Zaventem/Brussels Airport Box 31 Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik ZraËna luka/Airport Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Frankfurt Airport Center 1 Gebäude 234, HBK 49 Hugo-Eckener-Ring 60549 Frankfurt Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London Concorde North Wing, Gatwick Airport Room 332, West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-0022, Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 London Heathrow Airport, Terminal 2A, Room A30ATE104, Level 30, Departures, Zone B, Lanside Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-4683 Fax (+44-20) 8754-7377 180 CROATIA AIRLINES lonto@croatiaairlines.hr

Paris

Pula

95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Roissypôle Le Dôme, Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-40-00 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-55-11 parto@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka/Airport Pula Valtursko polje 210, 52 100 Ližnjan Tel. (+385-52) 218-909, 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr

Rijeka

51 000 Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5 Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma 00054 Fiumicino Aeroporto/Airport Leonardo da Vinci Torre Uffici 2, room 518 Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo 71 000 Sarajevo ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skopje 1000 Skopje ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 3296-967, 3296-969 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split 21 000 Split ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar 23 000 Zadar ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb 10 000 Zagreb Trg Nikole Š, Zrinskog 17 Tel. (+385-1) 481--96-33 Fax (+385-1) 481-96-32 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Meunarodna zraËna luka Zagreb/ Zagreb International Airport Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 62-65-930 Zürich Hardstrasse 2, 8004 Zürich Tel. (+41-44) 2610-840 Fax (+41-44) 2610-883 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Opletalova 57, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. +420 222 222 235 Fax +420 222 220 237 czech@croatiaairlines.hr GrËka / Greece Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str., 105 57 Athens Tel. +30 210 32 17 679, 32 17 750 Fax +30 210 32 49 152 greece@croatiaairlines.hr

Kosovo Airtour Prishtina International Airport Tel. +381 38 594 111 Fax +381 38 594 222 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr Portugal APG - Portugal Viela da Beloura, nº7 − Quinta da Beloura 2710 - 693 Sintra Tel. +351 219 100 054 Fax +351 219 100 059 portugal@croatiaairlines.hr SlovaËka CK Blue Sky Travel Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel./fax +421 2 5262 2375 slovakia@croatiaairlines.hr Španjolska / Spain Global Representacion Turistica / GRT Rambla de Catalunya, 61 5º 3ª, 08007 Barcelona Tel. +34 934 875 775 spain@croatiaairlines.hr Bliski istok Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda Street, Migdalor blgd. 12th floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. +972 3 516 7181, 516 7140 Fax +972 3 516 7174 israel@croatiaairlines.hr Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. +61 3 9699-9355, Fax +61 3 9699-9388 lidia@skyair.biz Novi Zeland / New Zealand CTtravel Limited NZ PO Box 104-056, Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Rd. Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. +64 9 837 9897 Fax +64 9 837 9898 croatiaairlines@cttravel.co.nz Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo, 105-0001 Japan Tel. +81 3 3593 6740 Fax +81 3 3593 6534 asipaxtyo@airsystem.jp Koreja / Korea Bohram Air Services 7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82 2 754 6336 Fax: +82 2 779 8795 croatiaairlines@bohramair.co.kr Tajvan, Kina, Hong Kong / Taiwan, China, Hong Kong Pacific Express Company Limited 8F, No 137, Nanking E. Road Sec. 2, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C. Tel: +886 2 2515 2371 Fax: +886 2 2515 3463 peclpax@ms57.hinet.net

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