Mountain Home, October 2017

EwEind Fs R the

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Vintage Ted Talks

Atwater Winery Owner Ted Marks Mentors the Finger Lakes, Root and Branch

By Gayle Morrow

Bluestone Brews in Sayre Our Photographers Shoot the Leaves Heron Hill Winery Turns Forty

OCTOBER 20171

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Volume 12 Issue 10

18 Wrong Terns and

Vintage Ted Talks

Sunless Skies

By Gayle Morrow Atwater Winery owner Ted Marks mentors the Finger Lakes, root and branch.

By Gayle Morrow

i.e. nature in all her glory.

20 Barrel 135

By Melissa Farenish

A barrel of good eats—and gourmet drinks—in downtown Williamsport.

23 Nature’s Twilight

Where an ending sparks new beginnings.

6 Fungus Amungus

Mountain Home Wedding

32 A Delightful Dilemma

By Rachel Leigh Mark Losinger and Mary Feeney stalk familiar haunts for exotic eats.

By Janet McCue

Selecting a Keuka Lake chapel for your wedding.

36 Building a Memory

By A.J. Sors

The Pennsylvania Lumber Museum offers couples a new place to tie the knot.

38 Something Old,

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Something New

Step Back in Time

By Ashley Ensminger

By Elaine Farkas And while you’re there, have some fresh coffee and popcorn.

Heron Hill Winery celebrates its fortieth anniversary, and you can celebrate new beginnings.

40 The Family That Brews

Together...

By Maggie Barnes

...opens a brewery together—which in this case is called the Bluestone.

42 Slammin’ Jammin’ BBQ

28 Mountain Home Wedding

By Mike Cutillo

44 Cooking from Scratch

—and Sniff

By Cornelius O’Donnell

If you want the aroma of cooking, cook!

A one-pot cookbook makes it easy.

50 Back of the Mountain

By Nigel P. Kent Classically fall.

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Cover by Tucker Worthington. Cover photo courtesy Doug Yeater. This page (top): by Gayle Morrow, (second) courtesy Mark Losinger; (third) courtesy John Seely; (bottom) Rick Bacmanski PhotoArtistry ©2014.

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w w w. m o u n ta i n h o m e m ag . co m Editors & Publishers Teresa Banik Capuzzo Michael Capuzzo Associate Publisher George Bochetto, Esq. Managing Editor Gayle Morrow D i r e c t o r o f O pe r a t i o n s Gwen Button Advertising Director Maia Mahosky S a l e s R ep r e s e n t a t i v e s Robin Palmer, Linda Roller, Richard Trotta Gallery Manager/Circulation Director Michael Banik Accounting Amy Packard D e s i g n & P h o t o g r ap h y Tucker Worthington, Cover Design Andi Lynn, Intern Contributing Writers Michael Banik, Maggie Barnes, Mike Cutillo, Ashley Ensminger, Melissa Farenish, Carrie Hagen, Don Knaus, Rachel Leigh, Cornelius O’Donnell, Janet McCue, Brendan O’Meara, Peter Petokas, Linda Roller, Micah Sargent, A.J. Sors, Ruth Tonachel, Dave Wonderlich C o n t r i b u t i n g P h o t o g r ap h e r s Mia Lisa Anderson, Rick Bacmanski, Bernadette Chiaramonte, Diane Cobourn, Danielle Cook Gerritsen, Jan Keck, Nigel P. Kent, Roger Kingsley, Johnathan Mack, Ken Meyer, Linda Stager, Clayton Vargeson, Sarah Wagaman, Doug Yeater D i s t r i b u t i o n T eam Layne Conrad, Grapevine Distribution, Gary Hill, Duane Meixel, Linda Roller T h e B ea g l e Cosmo (1996-2014) • Yogi (Assistant) ABOUT US: Mountain Home is the award-winning regional magazine of PA and NY with more than 100,000 readers. The magazine has been published monthly, since 2005, by Beagle Media, LLC, 87-1/2 Main Street, Wellsboro, Pennsylvania, 16901, and online at www.mountainhomemag.com. Copyright © 2017 Beagle Media, LLC. All rights reserved. E-mail story ideas to editorial@ mountainhomemag.com, or call (570) 724-3838.

TO ADVERTISE: E-mail info@mountainhomemag.com, or call us at (570) 7243838.

AWARDS: Mountain Home has won over 85 international and statewide journalism awards from the International Regional Magazine Association and the Pennsylvania NewsMedia Association for excellence in writing, photography, and design.

DISTRIBUTION: Mountain Home is available “Free as the Wind” at hundreds of locations in Tioga, Potter, Bradford, Lycoming, Union, and Clinton counties in PA and Steuben, Chemung, Schuyler, Yates, Seneca, Tioga, and Ontario counties in NY. SUBSCRIPTIONS: For a one-year subscription (12 issues), send $24.95, payable to Beagle Media LLC, 87-1/2 Main Street, Wellsboro, PA 16901 or visit www.mountainhomemag.com.

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Doug Yeater

Vintage Ted Talks Atwater Winery Owner Ted Marks Mentors the Finger Lakes, Root and Branch

By Gayle Morrow

V

inny Aliperti, since 2003 the head winemaker at Atwater Estate Vineyards, on the southern end of Seneca Lake’s east side, had the opportunity a decade ago to purchase his own winery up near Geneva. You might think that would have represented a bit of a conflict of interest for him and his boss, Atwater owner Ted Marks. How could the winemaker for one winery own another winery and make the wine for both? Isn’t there some pretty intense competition among those folks?

Well, maybe not so much. Ted told Vinny, who had also done a stint as assistant winemaker for the Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, to go ahead and buy Billsboro Winery, but “if you get a better wine score than we do, you’re fired.” Well, Vinny did, and then he did. And then Ted did what he said he would do, but, alas, Vinny won’t leave. In fact, on a beautiful day in late summer, while Ted is sitting on the deck at Atwater chatting with a couple of visitors, Vinny is washing out wine barrels. Atwater wine barrels. And this is the guy who just the year before won the coveted New York Wine and Food Classic Governor’s Cup for his Billsboro 2013 Syrah.

It’s worth noting that the owners of Atwater’s previous incarnation, Rolling Vineyards, won the very first Governor’s Cup. Is that karma or just serendipity? Could be both. As Ted tells it, the folks from the Finger Lakes wineries help each other. They’re connected much like, if you’ll excuse the obvious analogy, grafts on rootstock. They sell grapes to one another.

They share the cost of bringing in a mechanical grape picker (Ted says the only problem is everyone wants their grapes done the same day). When one of their own got cancer, the others got together and picked his grapes.

See Marks on page 8

7

Marks continued from page 7

“It’s what has made us successful,” says Ted. “We all work together or we won’t survive. It’s part of the game—working and cooperating with each other and with Cornell (Cornell University has a grape-related experiment station in Geneva). That’s what I love about this job and this community.”

And there’s that belief in the product that helps. “We make the best Riesling in the world,” Ted states, and it may not even matter if he’s talking about Atwater in particular or the Finger Lakes in general.

Happy Grapes Ted says the grapes this year at Atwater Estate Vineyards are “extremely bountiful”—this from a man who characterizes himself as a wine maker rather than a grape grower. Nor was he raised in the grape or wine business, although his brother-in-law was a founder of Glenora Wine Cellars, and his niece and her husband started the Fulkerson Winery. Anway, “Here I am,” he says philosophically, adding that “my job really is the promotion of the company, working with the employees.”

Let’s backtrack a little to see how a guy whose grandfather was the founder of the Gannett newspaper empire, who has changed a few tires with a couple of Formula One crews, and who once owned a company that made packaging for the stores bearing the name of Elmira’s own Tommy Hilfiger has ended up on that afore-mentioned deck, watching a writhing Mr. Pinot scare birds away from his grapes.

(By the way, in case you’re wondering who or what is Mr. Pinot…he’s one of those tall, inflatable air dancers with the flailing arms and goofy face you’ve probably seen at grand openings and blowout sales. Atwater’s Mr. Pinot guards his namesake, the Pinot grapes, and he’s actually quite famous for his work. He [Ted, too] was in The Wall Street Journal, on CBS This Morning with Jane Pauley, and had a spot on ABC for National Wine Day. “It’s amazing what it’s done—you just never know in this business,” muses Ted. “It’s what car dealers do to get rid of their damn cars.”)

But back to how Ted and Atwater became one. Ted explains that his daughter, Ann, had married into a wine-making family.

You may have heard the name—Hazlitt. This was 1999, and Ted was thinking of retiring, but he had wanted to help the couple get started. One thing led to another and by the following year he found himself making wine at Atwater (possibly because the previous owners had maintained the vineyard despite having closed the winery in 1989). It wasn’t long after that Vinny signed on as the winemaker.

Getting Started Ted’s family lived in Elmira when he was a kid and they had a summer home in Glenora, on Seneca Lake. Ted studied business and accounting at Babson College, in Massachusetts, graduating in 1963. What a useful background for a businessman, right? Ted agrees.

“I know why I’m losing money,” he says, almost straightfaced.

But the subject matter itself was maybe not the direction his heart of hearts was telling him to take.

“My first formal job was in accounting,” Ted says. “I decided I didn’t like it and they didn’t like me.” What he was starting to 8

realize that what he did like was being his own boss, having his own business, and, perhaps best of all, helping his employees, particularly “all those kids coming up,” find their paths, find themselves. Throughout those years of discovery, Ted had, among other jobs and business ventures, Horwitz Paper and Packaging, Image Packaging (that’s the company that provided the packaging for Tommy Hilfiger), a company lost to Hurricane Agnes in 1972, a stint with the Corning Chamber of Commerce, and Bookmarks, a bookstore on Corning’s Market Street.

“What I liked about Bookmarks was the kids I hired,” Ted recalls. There was one, a “jock” that nobody in town would hire, but Ted did and says he was “probably one of the best employees I ever had.” The young man played high school sports but he never missed a day’s work; he’s a lawyer today, Ted says.

There were more like that, kids who were maybe a little attitudinal, maybe a little cocky, but Ted gave them a chance anyway. He would get letters from them after they’d moved on, saying things like “Thank you, Ted, you helped me through my parents.”

“Ron, Get the Truck.”

When Ron Abbott was just thirteen or fourteen, he had a great idea for a lawn mowing business. There were lawns aplenty, but what he needed was a lawn mower. Remember that the Marks family had a summer home on the lake?

Ron knew this, and reasoned that their other home, the one left empty for most of the grass-growing season, had a lawn that needed attention. He offered Ted a deal: If you give me your lawn mower to use, I’ll mow your lawn for free and maintain the mower. Okay, said Ted. Then, when he was old enough, Ted hired him to work at Bookmarks.

Ron remembers his Bookmarks days fondly, especially those times when Ted would come back from a downtown Corning Coffee Club meeting with a new idea about what the business should have or do. It typically involved having to get something loaded or unloaded, so the catchphrase became “Ron, get the truck.”

“Ted is the type of guy you just

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See Marks on page 10 9

gotta love,” says Ron, who these days is manager of the Corning Community College Bookstore. “He’s always working, always thinking. Even as a kid, he made me think. I was lucky to have the opportunity to get started with him. He made the business, made it happen because of his attitude. He was a great mentor to me and many others. To this day I still look up to him. I feel like I’m part of his family. He’s been an inspiration for me to be a better person.”

Ted was in Ron’s wedding. “That was pretty special for my wife and me,” Ron says.

Gayle Morrow

Marks continued from page 9

Tales from the Wine Trail Paul Thomas, executive director of the Seneca Lake Wine Trail and first vice-chair of the Watkins Glen Area Chamber of Commerce of the 2017 board of directors, says Ted Marks has been “an amazing influence on my life.” The two have known each other for over thirty years. Ted, who was instrumental in the hiring of Paul as executive director of the SLWT a dozen or so years ago, remembers when Paul used to come into Bookmarks; Paul, who describes his younger self as a word nerd, remembers that Bookmarks was his first job and that Ted was and continues to be a father figure to him.

“He is an intuitive mentor. He can’t help himself. I think it’s a beautiful thing.

The world would be a better place if there were more people like Ted.” Paul remembers being a high school student who was “stupid, distracted” but one who also thought he might be accepted into an Ivy League school if he could just ace the application. “I prided myself on my English language skills,” he says, and so filled out the application and thought he might be in the running as “I really had put some time into it.” The application somehow ended up in Ted’s hands.

“Ted is not a man of letters,” laughs Paul, but he is a man of extraordinary common sense, “and he pulled out several dramatic, lame-ass errors on that application.” Paul fixed them, and says that even though he wasn’t accepted at that particular school “it all worked out in the end.”

“The impact of people like Ted who are mentors, that silent and hidden positive impact … there are dozens, if not 10

hundreds, like me who would have the same story.”

And even though he thinks it might sound just a little cheesy, he says he knows that what Ted does, whether it’s for family, friends, or community, “comes from a place of love.”

Car Talk Ted likes fast and sporty cars. Way back when Rob Abbott worked for him at Bookmarks, Ted had an MG that he’d let Rob drive. Actually, the way Rob remembers it, is that he’d offer to take the car for the weekend and “clean it up for you.” There would then be some driving involved. Sometimes, he says, Ted would complain that the car was too clean, too much Armor-All made the seat and steering wheel way too slippery. Ted offered the car to Ron at one point, but Ron declined as, after it had languished for some years in a barn, one of Ted’s daughters wanted it. She spiffed it up, drove it for some years, then had it refurbished and returned to her dad as a gift. Ron, in the meantime, bought two MGs of his own.

Throughout the years, Ted has satisfied some of his vehicular-related cravings by

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volunteering at Watkins Glen International. “The Formula 1 team used to stay at our house,” he says oh-so-casually (and, yes, he did meet Paul Newman). Imagine hanging out with Jimmy Clark, a 2010 inductee into “Legends of the Glen,” or Mario Andretti, who just last month received the 2017 Cameron R. Argetsinger Award for Outstanding Contributions to Motorsports at a ceremony in Corning which Ted attended. Changing tires for Lotus and Brabham or the Resi Ferrari guys is just another thing Ted liked to do.

It’s All About the People and the Place About noon on this sunny Tuesday, the winery itself seems to be just waking up. As he walks through on his way to the deck, Ted razzes the guy who is sanding the door, greets all the other staff he sees, then settles himself and his guests into comfortable chairs to talk and enjoy wine, crackers, and garlic cheese curds.

“I love our whites,” he says, when he’s asked what his personal wine favorite is. “I’m beginning to love our reds.” He’s definitely not a wine snob, and even pokes a little fun at the fancy wine descriptions some aficionados love to spout. “Where the hell do they come up with that crap?” he asks.

Ted acknowledges he came into the business a little differently than other growers and wine-makers.

“I was a business man. I was the one who started charging for tastings. We were giving away $45,000 a year in free tastings.”

Many of the other wineries have since followed suit.

He says he hopes it’s important that he’s bringing people and outside events to the area—events such as Fork to Fondo,

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Marks continued from page 11

the bike trek that incorporates stops at great local farms and eateries, and Grapehounds, the fundraiser for greyhound rescue. He hopes his “telling people about the beauty of the Finger Lakes” is helpful.

His community involvement obviously is not a new venture for the man who once held the “Mayor of Market Street” (Corning) title, and he clearly has no intention of letting up any time soon. He cites his involvement with the Industrial Development Agency of Steuben County, and his work with the communities of Watkins Glen and Montour Falls on replacing their sewer plants.

“It’s very important that you give back—you get back what you put into it,” Ted says. “My grandparents and parents were the same. You’ve no right to suck it out. You’ve got to put it back in or your kids won’t have any place to live.”

When asked about the Estate’s sustainable growing practices, he says he is very conscious about living on Seneca Lake.

“We’re careful with the chemicals we use, we’ve cut down on the amount, we use better sprayers with the correct settings, we’re careful about runoff, we’ve cut down on water use. This is where we get our water, this is where we live. We work very closely with Seneca Pure Waters.”

“I am extremely blessed by what I have in my life,” he says and, as he tends to do, he passes on taking credit. “I feel I owe my success to the 400 people who have worked for me over my lifetime.

They kept our businesses running.” They keep their own businesses as well. Some of the fledgling winemakers who have passed through Atwater’s doors include Aaron Roisen, now with Hosmer Winery; Justin Boyette, now at Hector Wine Company; Tom Higgins, now with Heart & Hands; and Kris Matthewson, now at Bellwether’s.

One of Ted’s daughters, Katie, who was at one time in charge of Atwater Estate Vineyards tasting room, now runs a restaurant, Graft, in Watkins Glen.

“Graft has a lot of young kids,” Ted muses. “I get more satisfaction out of that—working with kids today—than I do drinking a glass of wine.” That’s something for a winemaker to admit to.

The winery, by the way, is for sale to the right buyer, Ted mentions. He’s not necessarily anxious to sell, but if someone came along and promised to take care of the employees—he is “completely interested in the employees’ welfare”—a transaction might be possible.

Ted laughs. “I want to leave the kids something so they can say ‘God, he was a good guy!’”

Keystone Press Award-winning columnist Gayle Morrow is Mountain Home’s managing editor.

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Courtesy Mark Losinger Wild morels: Mark Losinger poses with one of his favorite mushroom species, the morel.

Fungus Amungus

Mark Losinger and Mary Feeney Stalk Familiar Haunts for Exotic Eats

By Rachel Leigh

M

ark Losinger, of Middlebury Center, Pennsylvania, spent most of his childhood doing fun things outdoors, and relatively early on discovered nature could provide not only a good time but some good food.

“One day when I was six years old my father had come home with a bag of morel mushrooms that a coworker had given him,” he recalls. “To my six-yearold eyes, they looked like the last thing a young boy would want to eat. After a quick fry in butter, they quickly became my favorite food.”

Losinger, now in his third decade of of hunting mushrooms, says the drawback of wild harvesting is that these delicacies only grow two to four weeks a year, and you have to go and find them yourself.

“From that year on, my family would explore the forests in May in search of our favorite seasonal treat, the morel mushroom. I didn’t know it at the time,

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but morel mushrooms are one of the most sought-after, highly prized and expensive edible mushrooms in the world,” Mark says. “If you are a lover of the outdoors or interesting and unique foods, learning wild mushrooms can be rewarding and could quickly become an obsession.”

Just ask him and his wife, Mary Feeney. The two met while she was a student at Mansfield University studying nutrition. The couple both loved outdoors and food and together made a hobby out of searching for wild edible mushrooms, learning of the virtues of fungus together.

“Season after season we would learn more edible mushrooms, some not so good, others spectacular. We would attend mushroom walks, led by experienced foragers, pick the brain of the old Polish guy down the road, and of course buy and read mushroom field guides and consult colleagues,” Mark says. “I worked in a fine dining restaurant while Mary was going

to school and was able to befriend and interact with some of the finest chefs in the world. I was able to see first hand what a chef could do with such exotic fair as wild mushrooms. With Mary’s passion for the health benefits of eating wild mushrooms and my love of exotic delicious foods, we make a strong team.”

Mark says the number one rule of mushroom hunting is to never put a wild mushroom in your mouth without being 100 percent positive of its identification.

“Some mushrooms (even in your own back yard) can kill you with one bite.

There is no rule of thumb or ‘wives tale’ to tell if a mushroom species is poisonous or not. You simply have to just know the differences,” Mark says emphatically.

He says if folks can tell the differences between a raspberry and strawberry, they can also learn the differences between the poisonous mushrooms and the ones that are all right to eat.

“Often times Mary and I have been questioned by a curious passerby as to what we were picking,” he says. “When we tell them wild mushrooms, we are usually met with the same response: ‘you better be careful, if you eat the wrong ones you could die,’” he says.

Most mushroom species have a season, while others pop up unexpectedly, but usually in the time between early spring and late fall. The oyster mushroom, however, he notes, is usually found in January.

Mark says there isn’t a lot that has to go into planning a mushroom hunt. Typically, a mushroom hunter just has to understand the season and the particular habitat for each species to be successful; you can, of course, combine the hunt with other activities. “If you are a hunter, or enjoy fishing, what could be more rewarding from a successful excursion than to find some wild mushrooms to cook with your newly acquired fare?” Mark asks. He and Mary enjoy fishing or hiking and they always keep an eye out for edible mushrooms along the way.

“Occasionally, we find so many mushrooms that we abandon our original plans and just pick mushrooms. The only tools a person needs are a knife, a bag to carry them (we recommend a laundry bag from the dollar store), and the knowledge to ID them,” says Mark. “There are hundreds of edible mushroom species, but Mary and I focus on the choice edibles. We regularly pick morel, chanterelle, oyster mushroom, king porcini, black trumpet, hen of the woods.”

Mark says wild mushrooms cook as store-bought mushrooms do. They can be dried, pickled, canned, or frozen.

“We fry them in butter or deep fry them and we add them to soups and sauces. One of our favorite things to do is dry them, and then grind them into a powder. This powder we use as a kind of spice or seasoning. We sprinkle it on pizza, eggs, garlic bread, or anything else that could use an earthy flavor. It is excellent as an additional seasoning on meats.” If they have a successful harvest, they love sharing it with their friends and neighbors.

Mark and Mary run The Pennsylvania Foragers Club on Facebook. Through this Web page, visitors can share photos, ask questions, or get advice about wild food in Pennsylvania and upstate New York.

“In addition to founding and running the Pennsylvania Foragers Club page, Mary and I have led mushroom forays, and wild food educational sessions at Hills Creek State Park, and given seminars to collegiate honor students at Mansfield University and Lock Haven University,” Mark says. “We also co-teach the onecredit wild edibles class for Mansfield.”

When they’re not out looking for mushrooms, the couple stays busy with other pursuits. Mary is a registered dietician and received her doctorate in human development with an emphasis on health promotion. She is currently a full time assistant professor at Mansfield University in the health science department. Mark is writing a book on the practical harvest of wild edible mushrooms, though who knows if he’ll give away all his secret spots.

“There are quite a few people in our area who love to pick wild edible mushrooms, but getting them to talk about it, or show you where, can be difficult,” he says.

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Mountain Home contributing writer Rachel Leigh is a native of the Cowanesque Valley.

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Inventory Reduction!

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17

Linda Stager

Mother Earth

Tag, you’re it: Steve Adams after another successful hunt.

Wrong Terns and Sunless Skies i.e. Nature in All Her Glory

By Gayle Morrow “Pow, right between the eyes Oh how nature loves her little surprises” ~ from A Life of Illusion, by Joe Walsh

S

ometimes the natural world will flex a muscle, yawn or stretch or sigh, maybe even stamp a foot in a bit of pique, and we humans are left with our mouths hanging open, wondering how and why something like that could have happened.

Take, for instance, the tern that made the wrong turn. At least we assume it was a wrong turn. Maybe it was the right one. How would we know for sure either way? The tale of the tern, a rare white-winged tern, began, as local Tiadaghton Audubon Society members Rich Hanlon and Kathy Riley recount, on the morning of August 10 when Rich, faced with a number of avian-related choices, opted to take his camera and binos to Nessmuk Lake for a bit of bird watching.

“Serious birders all have a life list of birds they’ve seen,” says Kathy, and the places they’re seen don’t seem to matter as much as the fact that they’re seen. “People keep lists of the birds they’ve seen in WalMart.”

18

So there was Rich, heading toward the lake’s south shore, hoping perhaps to add to his life list, when “I stopped abruptly forty yards short of the water’s edge at the sight of a dark colored tern perched on one of the pylons. The bird was facing me headon, so I could see that the head and breast were black with some white spotting on the forehead.” He thought at first he was seeing a migrating black tern, which would have been a rarity, so he called on some birding friends—John Corcoran and Kathy—and the three of them, with the help of a spotting scope and a field guide that conveniently showed a picture of a white-winged tern next to the black tern, subsequently made the correct identification. That visitor, which Rich fondly describes as having “its tail looking like it was dipped in white paint, white upper wings, and under wings black to the shoulder with white primary and secondary feathers,” was a white-winged tern.

In birder terms, its presence here, says Kathy, was “a big beaky

CLINTON CO. CELEBRATING — 75 YEARS —

welcome to deal.” A Eurasian bird, no part of Pennsylvania or even the shores of North America are on its known travel itinerary. This sighting was, in fact, the only documented one in this country so far this year, and the first documented sighting in Pennsylvania ever.

By that afternoon crowds were forming at the lakeshore— locals at first but ultimately an estimated 300-plus bird enthusiasts from several states came to pay homage. By 5 p.m. that first evening, Rich recalls, the team from the Cornell Lab of Ornithology had arrived. They told him, he says, that one reason the tern may have decided to hang out at Nessmuk was because of the excellent habitat.

“In Europe white-winged terns are primarily found in healthy shallow marsh habitats that have good perches close to the water’s surface. That is also a description of what we currently see at Nessmuk Lake.” He adds that the presence of this rare visitor had a positive economic impact on local restaurants and hotels, as all those birders needed places to eat and sleep. “It pays to nurture healthy ecosystems, and this is something we can all participate in together, for the sake of the birds and our local economy.”

The white-winged tern left as inexplicably as it arrived after about four days. Rich says he especially enjoyed watching the bird at twilight when “it would go into a feeding frenzy, making pass after pass over the shallow marsh at the south end of Nessmuk in company with chimney swifts and cedar waxwings.” There were moments, he says, when the white-winged tern seemed to be “moving in unison with the swifts…to assimilate with their flock.”

No profound analogies there.

Excitement over the white-winged tern had barely abated when The Path of Totality took center stage in the ongoing show that is the natural world. In Tioga County the day of the total solar eclipse was off-and-on cloudy; by early afternoon, every time it would get a bit darker, I’d drop what I was doing and scurry outside, squinting carefully skyward and observing, heavy sigh, just a cloud passing over the sun. I knew we were not in the coveted Path, but my hopes of seeing any part at all of the eclipse seemed increasingly, no pun intended, dim.

Fortune smiled, though, and my work that day ultimately took me to the home of some folks who were better prepared than I to watch the marvel of the moon hiding the sun. They had a pair of eclipse glasses, which was an extremely cool way to see what was happening in the sky, and a set-up out in their driveway that included a tri-pod, binoculars, and a piece of white paper on which the shadow of the moon could be seen as it was passing over the sun. We stood outside and, with the proper degree of awe, watched and talked about the rarity we were witnessing. We couldn’t help but wonder what the ancient peoples might have thought and felt when their sun was, however briefly, blotted out.

We couldn’t help but just say “wow.”

Nature does love her little surprises. Sometimes they have names—Agnes or Harvey, Katrina or Irma, or simply The Polar Vortex. Sometimes they come with feathers or fur. Sometimes they darken our world, then dazzle us by returning the light. Sometimes, as Rich Hanlon says, they just leave us “filled with gratitude to have had such an amazing experience.”

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Keystone Press Award-winning columnist Gayle Morrow is the former editor of the Wellsboro Gazette.

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Courtesy Melissa Farenish

Barrel 135

A Barrel of Good Eats—and Gourmet Drinks—in Downtown Williamsport

By Melissa Farenish

E

leven years ago, when restaurant pickings were a little slimmer in downtown Williamsport than they are today, a casual but trendy restaurant called Barrel 135 opened its doors at 135 West Third Street. The restaurant scene has since grown up around it, and Barrel 135 has, in the meantime, cemented its reputation as a stop for eclectic martinis and food with flair. Current owner and executive chef Joshua Aucker, who bought the business in 2015, describes his menu as a “southern/French Quarter mixture of food with a little bit of Asian influence.” Joshua, thirty-three, has been an integral part of Barrel 135 from the beginning. He started out there as a line cook in 2006, worked at another Williamsport restaurant for a time, and eventually returned to Barrel 135. His roots in the building go back even further, as he started cooking there at age sixteen, when it housed Heavenly Pasteria.

One of the signature dishes out of Joshua’s kitchen is a Buffalo macaroni and cheese dish that pairs fried chicken and Buffalo sauce with jalapeno cheddar macaroni and cheese. Though the menu changes seasonally, there are staples that stay on due to popular demand. Tuna nacho—little flour tortilla chips with wakame, diced tuna, diced red onions, sriracha oil, sliced jalapenos, and wasabi aioli—is a perennial favorite. “We tried taking it off the menu one time,” says Joshua, “and that didn’t go over well.” Another offering that has earned a permanent spot is the twenty-four-ounce soft

20

pretzel with jalapeno cheese sauce and honey mustard. The current menu includes appetizer treats like truffle butter popcorn and sweet pea croquettes, a low-country Cuban sandwich, grilled filet, a variety of sushi, cast-iron salmon, and oh-so-interesting salads such as kohlrabi and spiced cashews.

The martini happy hour is from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. daily and from 10 p.m. to midnight on Fridays. The martini menu changes seasonally, but, as with the food menu, there are a few staples that stay on due to popular demand. Those include the Barrel 135 martini—a concoction of vodka, olive juice, and blue cheese stuffed olives served with a lemon-pepper rim—and the caramel appletini.

The bar makes its own house infused vodkas, including a peanut vodka which is used in the peanut butter cup martini.

With a degree in culinary arts and hospitality management from Penn College, Joshua says he can’t imagine doing anything else. “It’s not really work, since I actually enjoy doing it. I love to cook, I love everything about it.”

For more information go to www.barrel135.com or call (570) 322-7131.

Melissa Farenish has worked as a lifestyle correspondent at community newspapers, and writes for several regional magazines. She lives in Montoursville.

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COLORFUL CREEPERS

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AUTUMN AGLOW

by Sarah Wagaman

Nature’s Twilight The light as evening comes on can be brilliant or subdued, multihued, or monochromatic. Yes the day is ending, but a new and equally amazing time is just beginning. If we liken autumn to twilight, to the conclusion of a lovely morning and afternoon spent pursuing an eclectic array of necessary yet once-in-a-lifetime activities, then perhaps we can look more kindly and with less trepidation on the coming night.

We, of course, can’t know for sure how the natural world feels about it all, but a look around seems to indicate that the final burst of color, an amphibian’s coy sideways glance, a John Deere’s last hurrah in an overflowing field of grain, is more celebratory than dolorous.

CASCADING COLORS

by Johnathan Mack

CHROMATIC COPY

by Sarah Wagaman 23

FRESHWATER IN THE FALL

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24

CLIMATIC DISPLAY

by Linda Stager

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Attracting Visitors And Enhancing The Quality of Life in Our Community The Coudersport Area Chamber of Commerce is a group of over 120 businesses, organizations, and individuals, that strives to make Coudersport an even better place to live, work, play, and visit.

Popular Chamber events include: Potter-Tioga Maple Festival • Cash Mobs Community Development Raffles • Town-Wide Yard Sales • Festival of Lights Craft Shows • Ribbon Cuttings Successful projects include: The Coudersport Arboretum • Chamber Gift Certificates Program • Potter County Artisans Center

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Connect with us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/CoudersportAreaChamberOfCommerce 25

FRECKLED FALLS

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27

Courtesy John Seely

Tasty combinations: Shane Morgan (left) and father-in-law John Seeley with the Mill Street Treats coffee roaster.

Step Back in Time And While You’re There, Have Some Fresh Coffee and Popcorn

By Elaine Farkas

N

avigating the twists and turns of Route 6 is a task that requires the utmost attention of any driver.

Fortunately that spike of artisan coffee you may need to maintain concentration is readily available in the hamlet of Sylvania, Bradford County, at Mill Street Treats, on the corner of Mill Street and Route 6.

Just watch for the carousel horse named Cricket outside the entrance, and you will know you are in the right spot. And with a new opening time of 7:00 a.m., seven days a week, you won’t have to sneak away from work to sample their beans, which are roasted on site. In addition to coffee, you can find frozen custard, peanuts roasted on site, coffee in K-cups sealed on site, and over thirty varieties of popcorn. Yes, that’s right. Thirty.

Mill Street Treats is the proud creation of two Renaissance men, John Seeley and his son-in-law, Shane Morgan, with the help of Shane’s wife, Katie. John is a retired shop teacher with a passion for woodcarving. Not a man to rest on his

28

laurels in retirement, John began carving wooden signs, like the Native American profile at Sayre High School. He also pursues carousel horse carving, and proudly introduces Duffy—seamless and ethereal, like a children’s cartoon come to life, though John explains she is made from hand carved pieces of basswood, carefully assembled.

She literally shimmers, and John mentions that he uses special automotive coatings for the effect. His attention to detail and his appreciation of handcrafted machinery leads him to procure the many antique machines used in the production of the mix of items available at Mill Street Treats.

Shane is a skilled sheet metal worker with a background in mathematics. Katie was educated in nutrition and dietetics.

The unique backgrounds of the three operators meld together to provide the perfect formula for this special business: equal parts quality ingredients, engineering, and nostalgia. John, Shane, and Katie insist on using only the finest ingredients for their creations, sourcing them locally

and avoiding preservatives and genetically modified organisms whenever possible.

This is great news for popcorn lovers, for although roughly ninety percent of U.S. corn is now genetically modified in some way, popping corn is not, at least not in the manner that alarms people. That is, no foreign genes are inserted into the organism’s DNA. Popping corn has been genetically selected and bred the oldfashioned way to have a unique shell, harder and more impermeable than other types of corn. This shell is responsible for popping corn’s resistance to pests and disease, and the physics behind the “pop.” The shell traps moisture inside the kernel as it is heated rather than slowly releasing it, and the trapped vapor builds until the pressure inside causes the kernel to rupture or pop.

Mill Street Treats offers many flavors of popped corn; labels tout intriguing tastes and names including dill, Buffalo ranch, garden fare, and the original caramel that inspired the entire operation. Popcorn purists will appreciate the simplicity of the

BRADFORD CO. Jim’s sporting goods welcome to

original recipe, requiring only five ingredients artfully combined in precise ratios. Don’t even bother asking John for the recipe, or fishing for hints, because the affable man in the straw hat will soon acquire a serious demeanor, letting you know great lengths were required to obtain this recipe. Without giving any secrets away, I can say that all of their sweet recipes use no artificial stuff. Maple from Bradford County, cane sugar, and honey are all you will find listed as ingredients. The caramel corn is airy and coated in a light, crisp caramel that doesn’t stick to your teeth. It is pure caramel: buttery, crispy, and highly addicting!

As delicious as the caramel version is, it is not Mill Street Treats’ top-selling flavor. That title belongs to the white cheddar salt and vinegar, a flavor that, like many scientific discoveries, was the result of a fortunate lab accident. This corn packs quite a punch, owing in part to the fact that real cheese, as in cheese you can slice with a knife, is baked into each batch in a specialized process that does not change the texture of the corn to resemble a breakfast cereal marshmallow.

Katie is the flavor chemist of the operation. One of her most unique creations is garden fare; it features a blend of cumin, garlic powder, turmeric, marjoram, and a little pepper, among other things. It is reminiscent of the exotic smells of Indian cuisine. The dill is a close second, truly tasting like a dill pickle with earthy bitters of dill combined with a garlic-packed crunch.

All the popcorn varieties are gluten-free, and Shane works to minimize cross-contamination between his peanut processing and popcorn equipment.

If John is the artist and Katie is the chemist, Shane is the engineer, a mad scientist tinkering in his lab. He combines the craftsmanship and nostalgia of antique equipment with modern technology in the shop. In the coffee roasting room (Shane’s laboratory), a rescued direct-fire roaster crafted in Hornell, New York, dating from the early 1900s, was re-engineered with a modern temperature control system. The espresso machine is a trip back in time, too, having no electrical parts at all. It is a purely mechanical “pull” model.

John and Shane have big plans for the future—starting with remodeling an additional antique peanut roaster and restoring an antique soda fountain once housed in the Wellsboro Pharmacy. The circa-1902 soda fountain will sport a marble countertop, homemade sodas, and a bygone atmosphere when root beer floats were the highlight of the week. Mill Street Treats provides a door back in time to a simpler way of life: a time when good, wholesome treats and customer service were delivered with a smile, and there was still time for small talk.

If you cannot make it to Sylvania between the hours of 7:00 a.m. and 9:00 p.m., you can purchase popcorn and coffee at www.millstreettreats.com or call in an order at (570) 297-3956.

Mill Street Treats are also available at the following Pennsylvania locations: Shedden’s in Gillet; Barnstead Pantry in Troy; My Neighbor’s Closet in Mansfield; and Johnny’z Hot Rod Café in Wellsboro. And you can always meet John and Duffy on the road, who make appearances at various local festivals including the Heritage Festival in Mansfield and Dickens of a Christmas in Wellsboro.

First time contributor and Tioga resident Elaine Farkas teaches physics and runs the planetarium at Mansfield University.

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MOUNTAIN HOME

WEDDING “T

his photograph was taken in the barrel room of Wagner Winery on Seneca Lake. During their wedding reception at the Ginny Lee Cafe, Hilary and Connor stepped away for a few moments alone among the aged wine barrels. A beautiful October wedding provided the perfect available lighting to create this image.” ~Danielle Cook Gerritsen of Gerritsen Photography, a wedding and lifestyle photographer in the Finger Lakes region.

© Gerritsen Photography www.gerritsenphotography.com 31

Rick Bacmanski PhotoArtistry 2014

A Delightful Dilemma:

Selecting a Keuka Lake Chapel for Your Wedding

By Janet McCue

O

ver the past five years, I’ve had the pleasure of attending a bounty of weddings as nieces, nephews, sons, and friends have tied the knot. Venues included a rustic barn and a historic house; a contemporary art museum and a Finger Lakes vineyard; a Buddhist temple and a Catholic church; a French bistro in New York City and a Victorian town hall outside of London. Each reflected the couple’s love as well as their culture and style. My next event is a ceremony in a Keuka Lake chapel.

Two chapels, located within ten miles of each other, the Garrett Memorial Chapel (pictured on page 34) on a bluff overlooking Keuka Lake and the Norton Chapel (pictured above) on the Keuka College campus by the shore of Keuka Lake are both distinctive wedding venues.

Garrett Memorial Chapel It’s meditative to wend your way along Skyline Drive toward the Garrett Memorial Chapel. The curving, two-lane road forces you to slow down and contemplate the sights—the forested lands of Keuka Lake State Park, neatly tended farmhouses, abundant vineyards, and glimpses of the lake itself. Midway down the road,

tucked into the woods, is the Garrett Chapel. The Little Chapel on the Mount, as the Garrett is known, is a gem in the Finger Lakes.

The meditative mood deepens as you walk down the wooded path or make your way up the formal driveway and into the chapel.

Soft lighting warms the walls, hand-cut stone archways, trusses resembling oak beams, granite from Pennsylvania, slate from Holland, crab orchard marble from Tennessee, and Xanadu onyx from Algeria form the chapel interior floors and patterned outdoor terrace. But what draws your attention as you first enter the chapel are the ten stained glass windows designed by Frederick Wilson.

Wilson, an artist in stained glass, became the head of Tiffany’s Ecclesiastical Department in 1899. Wilson’s bold windows, the last he designed before his death, echo the chapel’s architecture but also capture the azure of Keuka Lake. Paul Garrett’s hope was that the ecclesiastical windows would evoke the Second of the Ten Commandments, “love thy neighbor as thyself,” as well as “emphasize that an enduring civilization can be built only on the foundation of family life, with love the keynote.” He wrote these words almost ninety years ago when the chapel was consecrated.

Today love is celebrated by couples from all over the world who See Norton on page 34

32

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select Garrett Chapel for their wedding. Open from May through September (garrettchapel.org/weddings.php), the chapel holds seventy-five guests, just right for an intimate wedding.

Norton Chapel

Just down the road from Garrett Chapel is the lakeside setting for the Norton Chapel. With its soaring beams constructed Contact: Sonja Harvey without a single nail, an imposing array of organ pipes forming the Sonja@specialeventnetwork.net/info@specialeventnetwork.net backdrop of the marbled chancel, and the natural materials used cell: 607-426-5021 in its construction, Norton Chapel is an architectural delight. It’s also a perfect site for a wedding ceremony. Opened in 1964 on the seventy-fifth anniversary of the founding of Keuka College, TO: Maia Mahosky Norton Chapel (www.keuka.edu/weddings) is considered “a physical symbol of the centrality of religion in adventurous maiam@mountainhomemag.com living.” The range of building materials—the Douglas fir trusses tel: 570-724-3838 from Oregon, the white marble from Vermont, the Italian handblown glass in the chandeliers—reflect the welcoming spirit of this cell: 570-787-3433 non-denominational chapel. Adding to the warmth of the natural materials are the abstract mosaic windows designed by twentieth Beagle Media, LLC/Mountain Home Magazine century French glass artist Gabriel Loire. Rising from the floor to 87 1/2 Main Street the rafters, the three vertical windows are intended to “create an Wellsboro, PA 16901 atmosphere of blues.” Loire’s windows and the clerestory created ...Succeed ...Improve ...Relax between the planes of the steep roof bring dramatic light into the Updated 8/31/17 interior of the building. Up to 650 guests can be accommodated in the chapel’s facilities, which also includes preparation rooms and an onsite chapel coordinator for the rehearsal and wedding ceremony.

Begin doing the things For discerning brides and grooms these two Finger Lakes you’ve always dreamed of with a destinations both offer well-designed chapels. Although one Keuka Lake chapel was built ninety years ago in the style of traditional Home Equity Line of Credit from C&N. Norman architecture and the other constructed in the 1960s modernist style, the beauty of both buildings is a result of artistry and fine craftsmanship. Plus, the interiors and the grounds around the chapels provide stunning scenery for wedding photography.

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by Nekludov

Janet McCue is a freelance writer, avid hiker, and chair of the Seneca Lake Scenic Byway Committee.

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Courtesy Pennsylvania Lumber Museum Maiden marriage: Dirk and Kari Duffee were the first couple to wed at the Pennsylvania Lumber Museum in 2015.

Building a Memory

The Pennsylvania Lumber Museum Offers Couples a New Place to Tie the Knot

By A.J. Sors

T

he Pennsylvania Lumber Museum is dedicated to educating visitors about the area’s lumbering heritage, but with its water wheel, log pond, recreated logging camp, and locomotive it is also a uniquely beautiful venue for weddings and other celebrations.

Set in the mountains between Galeton and Coudersport on Route 6, the museum underwent a renovation and building project four years ago that added both extra space for displays and room for meetings, programs, and celebrations.

“We have had several meetings and weddings since the renovation project,” says Museum Administrator Joshua Roth, adding that the modest rental cost of facilities helps to defray the cost of running the museum.

The first wedding at the museum was in August of 2015 shortly after the renovations were finished, according to museum volunteer Patricia Berberich. The location of the ceremony was at the sawmill, downhill from the main facility and amid the buildings and scaffolding at the site. For Kari and Dirk Duffee, of Coudersport, that first bride and groom to celebrate nuptials onsite, it was a beautiful day and a beautiful venue. “Everything went so smoothly,” Kari said of the wedding arrangements and timing.

“We could not have asked for anything more,” she said of the site.

Weddings have since been held at the cabin built by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the Great Depression.

The Lumber Museum was started in the early 1960s by the Penn-York Lumberman’s Club to preserve the history of the area’s lumber industry. Today it is administered by the Pennsylvania

36

Historical and Museum Commission in cooperation with the Pennsylvania Lumber Museum Associates. While other venues administered by the commission can cost hundreds and thousands of dollars to rent for an event, Roth says, the museum only costs about $250.

“This is part of our Community Service Mission,” he adds.

“Out here there aren’t many places to rent for weddings or reunions, so we wanted to do something for the community.”

The facility options at the museum are impressive. It offers both indoor and outdoor settings. The indoor (handicapped accessible) availability includes an 1,800-square-foot multipurpose room; capacity for seventy-five to one hundred guests; tables and chairs; a kitchen for reheating and service preparation; and a rail hanging system for hanging decorations. The outdoors capacity jumps to 300. While tables, chairs, and a tent (if one is wanted) must be rented, there is unlimited space and unlimited views—and the kitchen is still available. Obviously tables and chairs can be decorated to suit the occasion, and Mother Nature provides the rest.

A complete guide to renting the facility, explaining what is available and showing photographs of previous weddings and celebrations is available at the welcoming desk at the entrance of the museum, or by calling (814) 435-2652 or emailing palumbermuseum@gmail.com.

A.J. Sors, an Alfred University graduate, makes Western New York her home. An experienced journalist, she enjoys traveling, kayaking, music and relaxing in the backyard.

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Something Old, Something New Heron Hill Winery Celebrates Its Fortieth Anniversary, and You Can Celebrate New Beginnings

By Ashley Ensminger

A

s wineries grow in popularity as an appealing outdoor wedding venue, one Finger Lakes winery is setting the bar high. Heron Hill Winery in Hammondsport hosted its fortieth anniversary party on September 1, with owners, staff, friends, family, and local patrons gathered on the grounds to mark the occasion (not to mention the release of their Old Vines Riesling). “It was a wonderful party to come together and celebrate what we love most about Heron Hill,” says Nicolette Deangelis, the winery’s wedding and events coordinator. “There was dancing, fun—a pure celebration of success.”

Heron Hill has much success to celebrate, so it’s not a surprise 38

that brides and grooms from near and far choose it as their wedding location. The winery opened in 1977, just five years after owners John and Josephine Ingle first planted grapevines at a spot now known as Ingle Vineyard. Travel and Leisure Magazine chose Heron Hill as one of the ten most spectacular tasting rooms in the world.

Offering a variety of Rieslings, Chardonnays, Vinifera Reds, as well as the popular Eclipse Series, Heron Hill wines have also won many awards including Top 100 Values by Wine and Spirits Magazine and Best US Riesling at the World Value Wine Challenge. The winery is also known for its dedication to sustainable farming practices (the vineyard does not see the use of chemical fertilizers, herbicides,

or insecticides, in order to prevent erosion and chemical runoff into the lakes and groundwater). These honors, combined with a stunning landscape, are just a few reasons why Heron Hill Winery has become such a popular venue for outdoor weddings on Keuka Lake.

In 2000, Heron Hill Winery hosted its first wedding in an outdoor tent. Seventeen years later, Heron Hill is featured in such wedding resources as The Knot and Wedding Wire, and is a premier venue for wine-country weddings in the Finger Lakes. It hosts between fifteen and twenty weddings annually and continues to grow in nuptial-site popularity. What’s the draw? Heron Hill Winery wedding ceremonies take place on the lawn overlooking Keuka Lake, with an exchange of vows under an elegant cedar arbor; or the ceremonies take place in the vineyard. Couples may also rent Heron Hill’s Genesis Event Tent so the reception can be conveniently near the ceremony site. The 170-person capacity tent rental includes a dance floor and bar access. If a party has fifty guests or fewer, the bride and groom have the option of holding their reception in the Tasting Hall. A Heron Hill Winery wedding also includes the services of a professional event planner, complete access to the winery’s Tasting Hall, and Heron Hill Winery selections to complement a specially chosen dinner menu. Nicolette explains that one of Heron Hill’s biggest appeals as a wedding venue is the scenery.

“It’s a very open feel,” she says, describing the vineyard and barrels and their rustic charm. “You bring your own taste to the tent, but you have the spectacular view.”

So how do potential husbands and wives know how to proceed with planning a wedding at Heron Hill? Nicolette is an important contact; couples who have worked with her in the past have described her as “extremely attentive and responsive” and detail-oriented. She is certainly one important element of a seamless ceremony and reception at the winery. Brides may be especially interested in attending the winery’s annual wedding show—the facility recently celebrated its seventh annual such event, which featured local wedding-related exhibitors such as caterers, bakeries, rental centers, DJs, photographers, and more.

“Local vendors come out for all wedding needs,” says Nicolette. “They set up tables, meet and greet with people, and talk about their services.”

It’s always a fun day. Upon arrival, guests are offered a complimentary glass of wine as well as a goody bag. Vendors bring raffle prizes, and items are given away throughout the day. Brides can browse, enjoy cake samples, view photography portfolios, and get a head start at planning their special day.

“It’s a great way to have everything in one spot instead of people going in different directions,” says Nicolette. The Wedding Show also showcases the many unique and special features of having a Heron Hill Winery wedding, especially the view from the lawn. Brides can register for the August wedding show on Heron Hill’s Web site (www.heronhill.com) prior to the event each year, and you can always call the winery at (607) 868-4241 for more information.

Ashley Ensminger is a freelance writer, university recruiter, and professional photographer. She lives in Wellsboro with her daughter, Sophie.

39

Maggie Barnes Family foundation: PJ Kennedy (left) works with brewer Thad York to create the perfect beer.

The Family That Brews Together...

...Opens a Brewery Together—which in This Case Is Called the Bluestone

By Maggie Barnes

M

andy Liechty was looking for a last-minute Christmas gift for her husband, Brady. He liked beer. The whole family, in fact, liked beer. So a home brew kit under the tree seemed like a more-than reasonable eleventh-hour save. Who could have predicted that what would really be unwrapped that holiday were the seeds of a new business? But that is exactly what happened, and Bluestone Brewing Company is the result.

Located at 18 Pitney Street in Sayre, Pennsylvania, Bluestone is a family affair. Mandy’s dad, Brian Kennedy, is a full-time handson partner along with his brother PJ Kennedy, who works with brewer Thad York to craft eighteen brews in a 3,200-square-foot facility. The other family partners—Mandy, Brady, Brian’s wife Linda, and PJ’s wife Dorinda—form the rest of the team that keeps Bluestone humming, all taking a shift when they aren’t working

40

their full-time jobs.

“We bought the land initially as an investment during the growth of the gas industry,” PJ says. But the slowdown of the gas industry adjusted their vision. “We’ve had the idea to do a brewery for years,” he explains. “The two things came together.”

The building marries the styles of country farm and industrial loft with a warm balance of wood and metal. A couple of animal mounts give tribute to the family’s love of hunting; timber beams frame the ceiling; six different species of Pennsylvania hard wood were fashioned into the bar and tables. And, of course, there is bluestone.

“Builders from all over love the look of bluestone. We wanted to celebrate a local resource,” says PJ. “The craft brew movement is a part of the organic, farm-

to-table idea,” Thad says while doing a quality check on the product (which in this industry means he’s quaffing a brew). “True craft beer was absent from this region. We’ve spent time helping people adjust their taste buds back to beer’s beginning, which is a darker, more flavorful brew.”

PJ nods in agreement. “We lightened a lot of our brews in the beginning and then gradually transitioned folks to more amber beers. Now, our customers tell us they can’t drink anything else.”

The members of the Kennedy family do love beer and have visited dozens of breweries through the years, compiling a list of things they would like to have in their own place someday.

Which adds to the odd moment when PJ and Thad both admit to an allergy to—of all things—hops.

“Yep,” Thad smiles. “So, there’s that to work with.”

But that didn’t slow them down, as they happily produce crafted beers like 1537, an Imperial Blonde Ale and the most popular brew at Bluestone. This time of year also brings forth seasonal favorites like Thunder Chicken Maple Porter and Blackberry

1537. (If you ask real nice, you might even get to see Thunder Chicken—a wild turkey decoy stationed out in the back.)

Bluestone strives to provide for the non-beer drinker, too, serving local wines and hard ciders—and homemade soda that makes the commercial stuff seem flat by comparison.

“We can’t make enough root beer,” PJ admits, handing over a glass.

That sense of fresh and local is at the heart of Bluestone. They have a rotational slate of beer, some seasonal, and the only beer they sell is the beer they make.

Recently, the family added a bottling operation, and lovers of beer can now get Bluestone products at Applebee’s in Sayre and Blossburg Beverage on old Route 15 in Blossburg.

“Adding the bottling was a big deal for us,” PJ says. “That was a real goal, to increase our outreach.”

But what’s a great beer without a great meal? Food plays a huge role in the Bluestone experience, and head cook Chris Rossiter works with the drink menu to pair locally sourced food in more than just the usual bar-top meals. The grilled

sweet Lebanon Bologna on a pretzel roll is a fan favorite. If they ask if you want the spicy cheese with the hot soft pretzels, the answer is always yes. Have you ever had a flight of whoopie pies? Well, it’s about time, don’t you think? Open every day except Sunday, Bluestone Brewing is the surprise ending to Pitney Street in Sayre, nestled into the end of a residential street, just before the business district begins. Go to www.bluestonebrewingcompany.com or call (570) 731-0222 for more information.

Out back, a family sits at a picnic table, basking in the late summer sun.

Fragrant green hops grow nearby. Corn hole tournaments and live music add fun in the warm weather. A porch complete with vinyl curtains and heaters extends the outdoor dining season to nearly year-round.

“We frequently have kids playing out back while their parents chat with folks on the porch,” says PJ. “It’s by design that families feel comfortable here.”

Maggie Barnes is a two-time recipient of the Keystone Press Award for her columns in Mountain Home. She lives in Waverly, New York.

A Postcard History of Sayre

September 9 through December 23, 2017 SAYRE HISTORICAL SOCIETY

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s any foodie who is worthy of the label can tell you, the term barbecue means different things to different people around the country. Memphis barbecue is one thing; North Carolina barbecue is something else again. Then there is the something Ben Lewis and his wife Shelly McCullough developed when they opened Slammin’ Jammin’ BBQ in Corning’s Gaffer District: call it Texas-infused barbecue for Central New Yorkers. Judging by the reviews—and by the fact that after just three years they opened a second restaurant—they have succeeded.

“New York and Texas tastes are so different that it came as kind of a surprise to me how much everybody likes it,” admits Felicia Wilson, Shelly’s daughter and the general manager of the operation. “Different places have different types of barbecue.

Texas type of barbecue uses sweeter red sauces with some spice to it, but a lot of people like to add even more spice.” Texas even has different versions of barbecue within the state, some using mesquite wood to smoke the meats, but Felicia says Slammin’ Jammin’ uses milder hickory for smoking because “mesquite has such a strong flavor New York people are not going to like it.”

Her mom and step-dad opened the first restaurant in 2013 at 37 E. Pulteney Street. It did so well, primarily as a takeout and quick-order spot, that when a larger, three-story building with a full bar became available at 69 E. Market Street, they jumped at it, opening in May of 2016 with the idea of eventually closing the first location. But, says Felicia, “We’re a year and a half into having both restaurants and they’re both still going so great that we can’t see shutting one down.”

All meats are smoked in-house at both venues. Ribs are the number one seller, especially the rib dinner coming with a bread choice and two homemade sides. Customers don’t shy away from the chicken, brisket, pulled pork, or sausage, either. And don’t get the idea it is only New Yorkers who enjoy Slammin Jammin’ BBQ. “We get compliments daily on how great it is,” says Felicia. “Even people who travel here from Texas tell us it’s awesome.” Check them out on Facebook or call (607) 936-1828. ~ Mike Cutillo 42

There’s always something happening in Hammondsport!

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DRINK

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FOOD • SC

Cooking From Scratch—and Sniff

If You Want the Aroma of Cooking, Cook! A One-Pot Cookbook Makes It Easy

By Cornelius O’Donnell

T

he other day I decided to check out some of the newspapers and magazines that had piled up and I grabbed the September 2017 issue of Country Living, mainly because that’s where I am right now—living in (more or less) the country.

The cover promised to show me “118 Elements of Country Style.”

I realized I might need some proper country touches in my décor since I am now living (more or less) in the country. I turned to the facing pages that held the country elements guide to find graphics resembling the old periodic table (my basic chemistry class came chillingly back). In those many tiny squares was an impressive array of items that make up, evidently, the editor’s idea of “Yokelsville.”

Pick from these elements and I imagine your home will look like “before” pictures of the Beverly Hillbillies.

Anyway, my eye glanced down to the “Py” square and, sure enough, there was Pyrex. Indeed, the brand often featured so-called country themed decoration on the bowls.

And while I was checking out publications I came across a disturbing article, well, disturbing to the advocates, like yours truly, of home cooking. The article ostensibly touted those meal-kits that send you precut, pre-measured ingredients. You do the minimal

44

cooking involved, using the easy steps described so precisely that even a kitchen klutz could produce a meal to thrill the dinner guests. I learned that now there are kits for vegans, kits that use only sustainable ingredients, and kits in which organic abounds.

But buried in the article’s copy was this drop-dead line: “Americans don’t want to cook and never really have.”

The authors go on to tout some of the many inventions designed to help the hapless. The authors mentioned some of the usual suspects: packaging breakthroughs, frozen food, the microwave, food processor, markets selling pre-chopped ingredients. And I must mention the recent, and amazing, entrance of Amazon.com to the “make it, but make it easy” world. Amazon is selling menus, with grocery lists under the sections of a market, no less, so you still do the shopping and the cooking, but the recipes are dumbed-down so you can produce a meal that’s been planned for busy you. Could pot-shaped drones fly in and deposit dinner at your doorstep? Stay tuned.

There are the companies like Blue Apron who ship you all the ingredients to make a meal, just to name the obvious. Then there are the drive-throughs, the last resort to eating, I think. More from

the article: “…once women—who used to do all the cooking— had the opportunity (and the need) to work outside the home, the home cooked meal was finished, at least as the daily anchor of domestic life.”

Average cooking time for women (women as the cooks, not the cooked) has shrunk to thirty-seven minutes a day, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics. What, I wondered, are dads and responsible teens contributing to, say, dinner prep or actual cooking? I’ll bet that number is growing, at least in some of the families I know.

Well, let’s just say real cooking from scratch has become more like a hobby, like collecting rooster-themed kitchen towels or ceramic tchotchkes—a somewhat recent passion of mine until I had the overwhelming task of moving and repositioning them on the slightly smaller kitchen counters in the new place. Cocka-doodle-do.

Sniff and Savor I have a loaf of banana bread in the oven as I write, and it reminds me of the sniff factor I mentioned in today’s headline.

No perfume can match that of most cooking odors—I exclude cabbage. I checked out “smell” online and found that your smeller is 70,000 times more sensitive than any other sense. “The fragrant aromas cause us to perceive odors and access memories about places, people, and events associated from these smell sensations at any time in our life,” according to someone who must have smelled something delicious baking at one time or another.

Have you ever thought of grandma’s kitchen when you baked those pies for Thanksgiving? And the aroma of tomatoes reminds me of those autumn days in our family kitchen. I’d come home from school and into the kitchen with those beloved split-wood bushel baskets overflowing with tomatoes, and there was mom making sauce to preserve, or canning whole plum tomatoes with basil. I loved looking at the rows of Ball jars all winter long. My, how they dwindled by March. Even today just a whiff of tomato sauce fragrant with oregano takes me, mentally, into the better pizza parlors of my life.

It was from James Beard that I first heard the term “taste memory.” He certainly had it, and he was referring to both the taste and aroma of a dish. And another example of “the nose knows” is that if we forget to turn on the oven timer you can usually detect when a baked dish—a cake or pie—is done. And there is that dreaded burn smell when things are overdone or sticking to the pan. It ain’t pretty.

One Pot. Period.

Aha. Now’s the time to showcase a new book. It’s from England but available in the U.S. and such a good idea—using one pot to create a multitude of pasta dishes. Add a salad and maybe some gelato (store bought) for dessert. Since washing up is not my idea of fun, I rarely make any dishes from chef ’s recipes.

They have staff, I have O-Solo Me-O! I’m singing again. Help!

I’ve seen a proliferation of one-pot cookbooks over the years.

Web sites and bloggers abound to help you achieve good meals without all the mess afterwards. But I recently happened upon a book entitled One-Pot Pasta. As you’ll see from the sample recipe that follows, most everyone’s favorite main course, pasta, is cooked

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See Scratch ‘n Sniff on page 46 45

Scratch ‘n Sniff continued from page 45

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with the sauce ingredients. This is a great way to boost flavor.

Good Italian cooks have favored adding slightly undercooked pasta to the sauce to finish cooking. But this book is full of ideas to combine the raw ingredients, then cook.

The only reason I hesitate to recommend the book is because in its seventy pages are many terms that may be unfamiliar to you: “lardons,” “streaky bacon,” “passata,” “courgettes,” “prawns,” “aubergines,” and I am confused by the term “soft cheese.” Is it goat’s cheese or cream cheese? And I couldn’t find a few of the pasta shapes they use (there are hundreds it seems). The measurements are odd, too. But, honestly, reading the recipe, I don’t think it matters. Pick the closest match to the color illustrations of each recipe. The book promises “from pot to plate in under 30 minutes.” Unlike so many pasta dishes in books featuring one-pot or one-dish, our friends across the pond show you how to place the ingredients in your Dutch oven or maybe an oven-safe skillet, in the order listed, and serve out of the same pot. No browning, remove, add, return, or any tricky logistics. Even I had to admit that getting something on the table was quick. I used enameled cast iron but a sturdy metal pan should suffice. After cooking, soak the cooled pot, and wash-up is done in the snap of a towel.

Gad, how my brothers and I used to love playing snapping the towel when we “helped” in the kitchen. But I digress.

One-Pot 15-Minute Gorgonzola and Mushroom Pasta Here’s a recipe from the book to give you an idea how to perform the fifteen-minute feat (or fête). There is one important step to remember, and the book makes this clear: after its fifteen minutes of flame, remove from the heat and leave to stand for another fifteen minutes, stirring regularly. The pasta will finish cooking and the sauce will thicken thanks to the starch remaining in the cooking liquid. I couldn’t find the pastas they suggested but, guess what, farfalle worked well for me. I might even use broken up lasagna in a pinch.

9 oz. dried farfalle pasta 7 oz. button mushrooms, quartered 3-½ ounces mascarpone (now available in large supermarkets) 7 oz. Gorgonzola 3-½ oz. chopped walnuts 1 shallot, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. chopped Italian parsley 1 tsp. salt (Malden or sea salt preferred) Freshly ground black pepper 25 oz. water (use spring water if possible) Set aside 1 teaspoon of the parsley for garnish. Put all the ingredients into a large saucepan or Dutch oven in the order listed (very important). Cook for approximately 15 minutes over a medium heat, stirring. About ¾ inch of cooking liquid should remain at the end. Let stand for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Sprinkle the parsley on top and serve. Serves four.

What to drink? Try a Finger Lakes rosé or a Spanish Cava or an Italian Prosecco.

Chef, teacher, author, and award-winning columnist Cornelius O’Donnell lives in Horseheads, New York.

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