October 2016

E E R F he wind

as t

Fall Fairytale

Once Once There Was Was aa Land There Land Famous for Its Famous for Its Autumn Colors...

Autumn Colors...

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Volume 11 Issue 10

Fall Fairytale

14

It Takes a Village

Once there was a land famous for its autumn colors...

By Don Knaus

Bad luck, good luck, and the big buck that didn’t get away.

18

Happy Birthday WSO!

The Williamsport Symphony Orchestra celebrates its fiftieth with a season of reunions.

By Linda Roller

27

6 Taking the Slow Road Home

Historic Walking Tour

By Michael Capuzzo

By Linda Roller A South Williamsport funeral home joins a Slabtown carriage company for timeless endings.

28

Que Syrah, Syrah

By Holly Howell

The Finger Lakes wine region, long dominated by white grapes, crowns a new king.

Mountain Home Wedding

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Herman and Luther’s

22 Picking a Peck of Peter Paupers

By Teresa Banik Capuzzo From barbecue to bridal gowns, a venue is born.

By Cornelius O’Donnell Mom’s ’50s go-to cookbooks are still a delight in the new millennium.

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Strands of Memories

By Maggie Barnes

Sentiments take center stage at Soulshine Studio.

Cover by Tucker Worthington. Cover photo courtesy Jan Keck. This page (top): courtesy Jeanie Leber, (middle) courtesy Steve Bagwell.

42 3

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w w w. m o u n ta i n h o m e m ag . co m Editors & Publishers Teresa Banik Capuzzo Michael Capuzzo Associate Publishers George Bochetto, Esq. Maggie Barnes O pe r a t i o n s D i r e c t o r Gwen Plank-Button Advertising Director Ryan Oswald Advertising Assistant Amy Packard D e s i g n & P h o t o g r ap h y Tucker Worthington, Cover Design

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Home is where life happens.

Build for life.

Contributing Writers Melissa Bravo, Patricia Brown Davis, Alison Fromme, Carrie Hagen, Holly Howell, Roger Kingsley, Don Knaus, Cindy Davis Meixel, Fred Metarko, David Milano, Gayle Morrow, Cornelius O’Donnell, Brendan O’Meara, Gregg Rinkus, Linda Roller, Diane Seymour, Kathleen Thompson, Joyce M. Tice, Melinda L. Wentzel C o n t r i b u t i n g P h o t o g r ap h e r s Mia Lisa Anderson, Melissa Bravo, Bernadette Chiaramonte-Brown, Bill Crowell, Bruce Dart, James Fitzpatrick, Ann Kamzelski, Jan Keck, Nigel P. Kent, Roger Kingsley, Tim McBride, Heather Mee, Ken Meyer, Bridget Reed, Suzan Richar, Tina Tolins, Sarah Wagaman, Curt Weinhold, Terry Wild, Jessica Dilly, Jeanie Leber Deb Behm Stafford, Linda Stager, Tim McBride S a l e s R ep r e s e n t a t i v e s Alicia Blunk, Maia Stam, Linda Roller, Richard Trotta T h e B ea g l e Cosmo (1996-2014) Yogi (Assistant) ABOUT US: Mountain Home is the award-winning regional magazine of PA and NY with more than 100,000 readers.

The magazine has been published monthly, since 2005,

by Beagle Media, LLC, 25 Main St., 2nd Floor, Wellsboro, Pennsylvania, 16901, and online at www.mountainhomemag.com. Copyright © 2016 Beagle Media, LLC. All rights reserved. E-mail story ideas to editorial@mountainhomemag. com, or call (570) 724-3838.

TO ADVERTISE: E-mail info@mountainhomemag.com, or call us at (570) 724-3838.

AWARDS: Mountain Home has won 85 international and statewide journalism awards from the International Regional Magazine Association and the Pennsylvania NewsMedia Association for excellence in writing, photography, and design.

DISTRIBUTION: Mountain Home is available “Free as the Wind” at hundreds of locations in Tioga, Potter, Bradford, Lycoming, Union, and Clinton counties in PA and Steuben, Chemung, Schuyler, Yates, Seneca, Tioga, and Ontario counties in NY. SUBSCRIPTIONS: For a one-year subscription (12 issues), send $24.95, payable to Beagle Media LLC, 25 Main St., 2nd Floor, Wellsboro, PA 16901 or visit www.mountainhomemag.com.

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Fall Fairytale

FALL FARM

by Ann Kamzelski 6

T

he fall colors in northern Pennsylvania can vary vastly from area to area and from hillside to hillside, so you need to drive around to find the best places to take photographs. A friend and I were out doing just that last October. We were looking for locations where the colors were at peak, when we found this farm on a side road between Mansfield and Troy. I have been taking photographs for over twenty-five years. I love nature photography: scenery, plants, animals, birds, and particularly insects.

I spend half of my year in Wellsboro and the other half in Cedar Key, Florida. When in Wellsboro, I shoot insects, landscapes, wildflowers, and lots of frogs. In Florida I spend more time taking photos of birds and the fabulous sunrises and sunsets over the water. I like to use my photographs to fashion whimsical images, which can be a combination of anywhere from two to over twenty different photos blended in Adobe Photoshop to create a final product that can be humorous or thought provoking. This photo is a combination of three images at different exposures to bring out all its hidden magic. ~ Ann Kamzelski Retired chemist Ann Kamzelski is the past president of the Grand Canyon Photography Club. You can see her work at www.photoartbyann. com or at the Island Arts Gallery in Cedar Key, Florida.

7

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Tag, you’re it: Steve Adams after another successful hunt.

It Takes a Village

Bad Luck, Good Luck, and the Big Buck That Didn’t Get Away

By Don Knaus

T

he yellow school bus wound its way down the dirt and gravel Heise Run Road. Students gossiped and chattered.

One child stared blankly out the side window. Then, his eyes lit up. He shouted, “Did you see that buck, Mr. Mengee?” Ed Mengee, the bus driver, slowed to a stop, noticing the deer that lay on the edge of the road. His rear view mirror showed no traffic so he backed up to get a better look. The students all jammed to one side of the bus to get a better view. The driver muttered, “That’s a nice buck. It’s a shame.” And that, in the words of Winston Churchill was “the beginning of the end” of a deer hunting saga.

Quite a saga.

Let’s go back to the beginning. Steve Adams is a principal in the Wellsboro Area School District. Folks outside the county seat remember him as the head coach of the Hornets basketball team.

Steve is also a dyed-in-the-wool hunter. He’s good at harvesting spring gobblers, but archery hunting for deer is his specialty. He runs three miles up to three times a week to keep in shape for hiking the hills and dragging deer. He practices with his bow daily.

He scouted extensively and decided that he’d try for several bucks that met muster. He was ready for bow season.

14

Steve hunted the first week and passed up shots at does and a young, scrawny six-point buck. He had settled on the bucks he would take, and he was being selective.

His body rebelled, though, dealing a blow to his archery plans: out of the blue, he was forced to undergo an emergency appendectomy. The surgery waylaid his hunting for two weeks.

Stir-crazy from lying around the house, and anxious for the hunt, he decided to go out behind his house. Against the better judgment of his physicians, he gingerly walked to a good watch site. Using a tree-climbing stand, he ascended a tree, realizing how out of shape he had become since the surgery. He could only climb ten feet.

He heard a deer walking behind him. He slowly turned to get a look and…it was the buck. The cautious buck just stood motionless for nearly twenty minutes. Steve used a bleat call and three does came in, presenting a shot. On seeing the does, the buck moved in. He was within fifteen yards. Steve tried to pull back his bow, which by now had sat idle for twenty days. He had to lift his arms nearly vertical to get enough muscle to draw. The buck never saw the movement. The archer took aim and placed a shot. He waited in the stand for twenty minutes and then climbed

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Mountain Home down to examine the area of the shot. He said, “I found white hair and dark blood. It wasn’t a good sign. I went home and called [my friend] Ben Largey to help me track. It was now dark.”

Ben arrived with his dad, Gale, and the three trackers waited.

Several hours after the shot, they ventured forth with flashlights.

The blood trail was initially easy to follow. Then they heard a deer run ahead of them. Continuing on the track, they found a bed with plenty of blood. The blood trail ended, and they reluctantly quit for the night. Steve said, “I didn’t sleep all night. It bothered me that I had wounded a deer and couldn’t find it. I took the next day off school to continue the search. I went back to the bed and circled in ever-widening arcs trying to find any sign of my deer. I found deer tracks but no blood. Finally, I decided to drive down Heise Run to see if I could spot where the deer may have crossed the road.”

In the meantime, at the school, the bus driver had mentioned the big deer and described the location to Julie Foil, an employee of the school district. She phoned Dick Grubb, who lived near the spot, and told him that he’d ought to take a look. Grubb found the deer and lamented the fact that it had probably been hit by a car. He proceeded to a local restaurant for his morning coffee and the daily bull session with the regulars. The conversation always came around to hunting at some point. He talked about the big buck down Heise Run. He urged Kenny Erway, the proprietor of a local deer farm, to go see the buck. Ken did. He felt the deer and exclaimed, “This buck’s still warm! The meat’s still good. I’m gonna take it.” As he rolled the deer over to gut it, he discovered that it had been shot by an arrow. He dressed the deer, preserving the cape for a mount. Then he called Grubb and asked him to check the neighbors to see if anybody had hit a deer with an arrow and couldn’t find it. He said that he’d publicize it around town in hopes of finding the hunter who had killed the buck. Then he took the deer to a meat processor—who is also a taxidermist.

So by the time Steve Adams slowly motored down Heise Run, his deer was already at the butcher. He had several more sleepless nights. He even said, “I don’t think I’ll hunt deer with a bow anymore.”

He reported to school on Monday and lamented the fact that he had lost a deer. A flurry of phone calls followed; Julie called Dick who called Ken who called the school.

Steve identified the deer because it had a very distinctive rack.

Then he called the taxidermist/butcher who said that he needed a tag on the deer. Steve called the game warden, who told him to fill out the tag and take the tag to the butcher. Ken Erway surmised that the huge layer of fat where the arrow exited helped to clot up the bleeding and that’s why the blood trail stopped.

In all, about a dozen locals were involved in the episode.

There were ten to eleven phone calls. The hunt took four days.

(This could only happen in a small town known for hunting.)

The massive buck weighed out, dressed, at 187 pounds. That’s a huge deer.

But, finally, Steve was able to walk into the butcher shop and say, “Here’s my tag.”

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15

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Happy Birthday WSO!

The Williamsport Symphony Orchestra Celebrates Its Fiftieth with a Season of Reunions

By Linda Roller

I

t’s no surprise that in a place like Williamsport—the town that birthed the country’s oldest community band, the Repasz Band, in 1831—music is always in the air. The little city in the mountains is fertile ground for all types and traditions of music, and both the number of musicians and the caliber of their music seem lavish for such a rural area. And perhaps one of the strongest strains of music here—and one of the most difficult to sustain anywhere—is the symphony orchestra. A partly professional orchestra, filled out with talented amateur musicians from this part of Pennsylvania, is not any easy thing to sustain, but in the case of the Williamsport Symphony Orchestra (WSO), it is not only alive after fifty years, but is growing both in talent and audience size.

So it should come as no surprise that the Williamsport Symphony Orchestra is celebrating its fiftieth year with an extravaganza of special events. And what better way to start than by having a reunion? And despite the built-in challenge of pulling off a reunion when the parties are scattered across the country, this one netted a rich haul: over thirty former WSO musicians, and two former conductors—Don Beckie and Robin Fountain.

But this reunion will include everyone. On October 17, the day before the first concert, is “Meet the Maestro” night, where the former players from 1966 onward, former conductors, current WSO Maestro Gerardo Edelstein, and guest solo cellist Andrew Rammon will join to talk about the orchestra. The public is welcome to join this reunion event at the Capitol Lounge of the Community Art Center at 5:30 p.m.

The reunion continues at the first Golden Anniversary concert, featuring Maestro Robin Fountain conducting the overture to May Night by Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov. “He was here for many

18

years, and Robin did so much to develop the orchestra,” says Joyce Hershberger, President of the WSO Board of Trustees. Hind Jabbor, business manager of WSO, who arrived after Fountain left, understands the warmth that Williamsport holds for the man who held the baton for seventeen years. “She is such a people person,” he says. This concert will also feature the Cello Concerto, Op. 85 in E minor, by Edward Elgar, performed by the symphony’s principal cellist, Andrew Rammon. For Rammon, it is also a farewell, as he is moving on to the Washington, D.C. area.

The rest of the season is equally golden. Dan Kamin, another WSO alum, will be the guest artist for the holiday concert on December 13. And, on February 17, over 300 musicians and choral members will gather to perform Gustav Mahler’s Symphony No. 2, the Resurrection Symphony. The piece, one of the high points of nineteenth century symphonic music, is challenging for any group. “Twenty years ago, this Mahler would be too difficult,” says Joyce Hershberger. “But now we have the number of musicians, the choirs. We have the ability.”

The last concert of the season will feature Joseph Haydn’s early Symphony No. 6 in D major, popularly known as Le Matin (The Morning), a piece first played by the Williamsport Symphony in 1915. So, in a very real way, this fiftieth anniversary also celebrates 100 years of symphonic performances by a local orchestra. There were a couple of breaks (for World War II and the like), but this most recent fifty-year run can lay claim to deeper roots. And that bodes well for the future of the Williamsport Symphony Orchestra.

Mountain Home contributor Linda Roller is a bookseller, appraiser, and writer in Avis, Pennsylvania.

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Teamwork: Don Kuhns and friends ready for the procession from Charles M. Noll Funeral Home.

Taking the Slow Road Home A South Williamsport Funeral Home Joins a Slabtown Carriage Company for Timeless Endings

By Linda Roller

I

t’s a sight that hasn’t been seen on the streets of Williamsport in over fifty years, and yet it’s somehow instantly recognizable. Pulled by two beautiful Percheron draft horses, the stately and somber elegance of the carriage draws the viewer into one of the universal dramas of life, and of death.

For Lance Ohnmeiss, it’s been a long road back home, and a perfect melding of his experiences, talents, and love of the land with which he has brought a horse drawn hearse back into the Charles M. Noll 22

Funeral Home in South Williamsport.

Lance had been in San Francisco for fifteen years, long gone from the little towns of Pennsylvania. He trained at San Francisco State University as a music teacher, worked training and exercising horses in California, and met the love of his life, Francis. It looked like a full, happy life in San Francisco.

But, meanwhile, back home in Pennsylvania, Lance’s Uncle John Ohnmeiss, who had worked for over thirty-five years at the

Noll Funeral Home, had, by 2009, become the funeral home’s owner—and he needed help. He put in a call to his nephew, a call that would set Lance and Francis upon a new path—on the other side of the continent, where Lance would pursue his masters in instrumental conducting at Messiah College while joining his uncle at the funeral home.

Francis got busy modernizing the business, doing the critical work of computerizing accounts and streamlining the paperwork. And Lance focused on “the front of the house,” looking for new ways to serve his customers. The funeral home business was changing rapidly, with the number of people choosing the traditional funeral already in decline, and over fifteen funeral homes in the Williamsport area competing for business. What the Noll Funeral Home needed was a service not offered by anyone else in the area.

The “eureka” moment happened on a plane. Lance was reading an airline magazine article on baby boomers and their love of horses…how horses were now a feature in gated communities for folks over fifty-five, at country clubs, at golf courses. It was not a large leap for an avid horse lover to see horses in his life, and in his work. Why not use a horse drawn hearse?

It seemed like a crazy idea, but then the pieces began to fall into place. Lance’s mom, a former high school band member, was having dinner with her former teacher, Don Kuhns, and he mentioned that he needed help with his horses, Bob, Rowdy, and Major. And so Lance joined Don in livery service—Kuhns Classic Memories Horse-Drawn Carriage and Wagon Rides. They have a white vis-a-vis carriage (in which two rows of passengers are seated facing one another), used for rides in Brandon Park and weddings, a people moving wagon for events, an 1860s beer wagon from the old Koch Brewery in South Williamsport, and the elegant black hearse.

The hearse looks exactly like a late nineteenth century hearse, but it is in fact a new carriage, built in 2012 by Robert Carriages Inc. in Quebec. Lance wanted the Victorian style, but also needed total reliability for the long ride to the four cemeteries that the horses walk from the Noll Funeral Home in South Williamsport. And although Williamsport Cemetery is only a couple of miles away, they also walk the seven miles over Bald Eagle Mountain to reach Green Lawn Memorial Park in Montgomery. For funeral processions to cemeteries other than Williamsport, Green Lawn, Wildwood, and Montoursville, the horses and hearse are trailered to a procession location close to the cemetery for the walk to the gravesite. (Outside of a thirtymile radius of Noll Funeral Home, they offer a funeral livery service, and serve much of the Northern Tier of Pennsylvania, and have even done a funeral in Elmira, New York.)

Today, about 10 percent of the people buried through Noll’s take a last horse ride with Lance and Don. The first funeral the team did was in January, 2015, on one of the coldest days of the year. Linda Hawkins, who works at the funeral home, recalled, “It was below zero, and with the wind chill, it felt like twenty below zero.” The horses’ breath created a fog that rose in the air, as the funeral procession wound its way from South Williamsport to Montoursville Cemetery. Going in the other direction, the traffic can back up for quite a distance as the

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procession makes its slow way up Route 15 over the mountain and down to Green Lawn in Montgomery.

The funeral home itself was built in 1906 as the home of the vice president of Koch Brewing in South Williamsport, so they were thrilled that they were able to get an original Koch Brewing beer wagon. That has been lovingly restored and is in use at events. So the house began with a strong connection to horses, as the horses that pulled the beer wagons for Koch were stabled right there. Lance also has plans to get a caisson, for the funerals of veterans.

He also provides the music at the funeral home, but that talent extends well beyond Noll’s. Lance’s degree in instrumental conducting has led him to organize the Northern Appalachian Wind Symphony, a group of over forty local musicians. Last month’s concert featured traditional concert pieces, new compositions, and even a piece from a concerto written by noted local trombone player Gary Steele. “Jazz in the Concert Hall” is the program he has scheduled for November 4 in the Klump Academic Center Auditorium at Pennsylvania College of Technology, performing pieces from the earliest days of jazz to today. Like his work with the funeral home and the horses, he brings this group together and showcases the talents of everyone involved.

As for the horses, they need more than a job. For large draft animals, that means they need space to run and 100 pounds of hay and fifteen pounds of grain a day. These beautiful horses live at Don Kuhns’ farm in Slabtown. So, in addition to all the other roles Lance plays, he helps with the haying and other chores at the farm. Through this work, Lance learned a new love of farming and the land that supports his passion. And that love has led to Lance and Francis’ own farm in Morris. After all, Bob, Rowdy, and Major always need another field of hay, or two.

Mountain Home contributor Linda Roller is a bookseller, appraiser, and writer in Avis, Pennsylvania.

24

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Historic Walking Tour

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n the fall of 2014, Corning’s Gaffer District proudly announced the launch of Buildings Alive!, an architectural and historic walking tour of Downtown Corning’s Historic Market Street. Fans of architecture and local history alike are invited to explore the Buildings Alive! tour, which allows visitors and locals and anyone interested in the history of Downtown Corning to access the tour via their mobile devices from anywhere in the world.

Unique photos, detailed descriptions, and audio recordings of each location allow the tour-goer to experience the vastness of Corning’s celebrated history in a new light. It explores nineteen historic or architecturally significant sites, including many original storefronts, The Rockwell Museum, the Little Joe Tower, and The Clock Tower in Centerway Square, a local favorite.

“Market Street’s not plain vanilla, we’re not bland,” says Jeff Bong, owner of Bong’s Jewelers, the only fourth-generation business on the street. “We’re a nice destination. We’re very fortunate to have a different feel than most small towns; we have character of both historic and architectural value.”

The tour also includes other unique sites of interest, including the Historic Centerway Walking Bridge, which was named the American Public Works Association Historic Restoration & Preservation Project of the Year in 2014. The handsome concrete bridge, built in 1921 to carry vehicles and pedestrians over the Chemung River, was replaced in 1979 by an adjacent steel bridge and was scheduled for the wrecking ball, before it was spared because of public outcry. The new bridge is a veritable floating garden, dotted with features like lawns and perennial gardens, glass pavers, and a maze.

Corning’s Gaffer District Executive Director Coleen Fabrizi says of the Buildings Alive! walking tour, “Not only is it a celebration of our city’s rich history, but it acts as a way to educate and entice people to explore the many hidden gems that this location has to offer, as well as share their experiences with countless others.”

For more information on the Buildings Alive! Historic & Architectural Walking Tour, or to find the Buildings Alive! online, please visit www.gafferdistrict.com/tour. ~ Michael Capuzzo

60EAST GALLERY

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60eastgallery.com • 607.483.4640 27

Courtesy Jan Regan

And the winner is: (left to right) New York Wine & Grape Foundation President Jim Trezise, Kim Aliperti, New York Lieutenant Governor Kathy Hochul, and Vinny Aliperti at the presentation of the 2016 Governor’s Cup at the New York Wine & Food Classic.

Que Syrah, Syrah

The Finger Lakes Wine Region, Long Dominated by White Grapes, Crowns a New King

I

By Holly Howell

n the world of fruit growing, the choice of location is key.

Climate and length of season can really dictate your choices for any particular region. Oranges grow perfectly in Florida.

Apple trees love New York State. And pineapples are a signature of Hawaii. If you tried to switch any of those orchard-to-state pairings around, the end result would just not be as successful—or as tasty.

It is the same with grapes. Certain types of grapes grow well in a cooler climate, some in a warmer climate. Some like short seasons, some like long seasons. Some vines prefer more gravelly soil, some prefer limestone. And the list goes on.

Most “indigenous” grape varieties around the world started out with ideal lodging. That is why they were born where they were.

But, over time, these vines have been transplanted by winemakers into soils outside of their homeland. Sometimes they like it.

Sometimes they don’t.

Over the past few centuries or three, the wine regions of the world have been experimenting with the different grape varieties to discover which ones take best to their “terroir,” or their own particular soil conditions, climate, humidity, etc.

For example, the chardonnay grape that originated in Burgundy, France, has taken nicely to the warm climate of the Napa

28

Valley. The sauvignon blanc grape of the Loire Valley has found a happy new home in Marlborough on the southern island of New Zealand. And the Malbec grape that grew up in Bordeaux has now planted its roots firmly in the Andes Mountains of Argentina, and is loving it.

The exciting thing about these transplants is that they bring a whole new dimension to the variety itself. The resulting flavors in the wines that are produced are slightly different, thanks to the new set of environmental settings to which they are exposed.

As everyone knows by now, the German Riesling grape has taken quite nicely to the Finger Lakes region of New York State!

With its inherent ability to ripen in cool climate and its love of mineral-driven soils, it has shown itself to be a standout here.

But lots of other grapes are being grown in the Finger Lakes right now, and there is room for a few more heroes.

Let’s take Syrah for example. This grape is best known for its prowess in the long-lived wines of the northern Rhône Valley of France like Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage. It is also used in the famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape blends in the south. Years ago, Syrah was introduced to the hot climate of Australia where it morphed into an amazingly spicy and rich red known as Shiraz. And it has

developed its own unique personality in the Central Coast of California where it makes lip-staining, high alcohol monster reds.

Being such a fan of hot weather, Syrah is probably the last grape that anyone would think to plant in the Finger Lakes. But thanks to a few visionaries, this grape is suddenly one of the most talked about trends of the region.

Much of the credit goes to the Hazlitt family of Seneca Lake.

They planted some of the first Syrah vines here in the mid 1990s.

And they chose the perfect location to do it.

The magical place is called Sawmill Creek Vineyard, located in Hector on the eastern shores of Seneca and, it was planted by Jim Hazlitt, a retired farm owner. This area is referred to locally as the “Banana Belt” because it receives more sun than any other part of the lake. The vineyard is also near one of the deepest parts of the lake, which is hugely helpful in moderating the temperature.

Today, husband and wife team Eric and Tina Hazlitt manage the Sawmill property. When asked why the Syrah grape was chosen, Tina tells us, “Jim did quite a lot of traveling to wine regions all over the world. When he would find a wine he enjoyed, he would do the research and plant a test row. When the first vines succeeded here, he planted a full acre in 1998, followed by 2.1 acres in 2003.”

Over the last decade, the Hazlitts have sold their fruit to wineries like Red Newt, Damiani, Hector Wine Company, and Atwater, all known for their prowess at producing stellar Finger Lakes red wines.

Another customer of the Sawmill Syrah is Element Winery, located in Arkport, New York. It is co-owned by Master Sommelier Christopher Bates, who also brings great cuisine to the area via his two restaurants, the FLX Wienery and the FLX Table. Christopher founded his winery in order to explore cool climate terroirs, and experiment with different grapes and soil types here. He is a Syrah believer, and says, “Vintners and consumers alike are under the impression that Syrah is a hot climate grape. This could not be further from the truth. Syrah ripens beautifully in the Finger Lakes, and its thick skins allow it to hang late into the fall for flavor development.”

The handful of vintners here that champion the Syrah grape have definitely helped to create a murmur over the last few years about the future of this grape in New York. That murmur became a loud shout on August 10, when Billsboro Winery’s 2013 Syrah won the coveted Governor’s Cup award at the New York Wine & Food Classic held in Watkins Glen. This annual competition, the Oscars of New York wine, selects one wine out of the entire competition as the best wine of the year.

No one is ever surprised when a crisp Riesling or aromatic Gewürztraminer wins the Big Cup. Those grapes are our rock stars.

But a Syrah? It was not only surprising, it was history making!

Most people were unaware that the Finger Lakes region was even growing the stuff. But Vinny Aliperti, winemaker and owner (with wife Kim) of Billsboro Winery on the west side of Seneca Lake, has always maintained that Syrah has a place in the Finger Lakes.

“Of course, I’ve been spoiled by working with Sawmill Creek grapes!” Vinny admits. “Syrah can be site-sensitive, and it does best in heavier shale-laden soils that can retain rainfall in drier years, and retain heat from the warm summer days. It also profits from lots of sunny days and good airflow. West facing vineyards are key.” Vinny is also the winemaker at Atwater Vineyards on Seneca Lake (just south of Sawmill Creek), where they planted their first

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Syrah continued from page 29

Syrah vines in 2007, and have continued to plant each year.

What about our cold winters? Well, it is true that sub-zero temps can be a challenge, but not if you choose the right plot of land that can protect the vines. Tina Hazlitt explains, “Syrah can be susceptible to winter injury, but the Sawmill Creek vineyard has a steep slope to the Seneca shores, which makes for an ideal location.”

The lakes are a saving grace when it comes to temperature control.

The Finger Lakes Syrah wines have their own unique personality when compared to hotter climate Syrahs worldwide. They are less jammy and rich, tending rather towards medium body with a nice balance of acidity and fruit. “This is true of any red wines,” Vinny points out. “Cooler climate does not mean you are sacrificing flavor. Instead, you are able to taste the distinct flavor of the grape, without it being influenced by heavier oak and higher alcohol.”

One taste of Billsboro 2013 Syrah from Sawmill Creek is all the proof that this wine writer needed. I poured it blind at a recent tasting, and no one would even believe it was from New York. Aged for ten months in a combination of neutral

Hungarian and French oak, it tastes of ripe black berries, leather, and spice. It is elegant and expressive of its sense of place.

The Billsboro Web site recommends it with lamb chops or tarragon pot roast. Yum. Sadly, this award-winning wine has already sold out at the winery. However, look for it in your local wine shops. There may be a few bottles left. If not, I can assure you that there will be plenty more tasty vintages ahead when it comes to Syrah.

Yes, this grape really seems to like our digs.

Syrah also has shown great potential in the Finger Lakes blended reds, especially with the Bordeaux varieties. Atwater Vineyards makes a stunning SyrahCabernet blend, where the Syrah adds a delicious note of black pepper to the mix.

Kudos to the Syrah pioneers of New York. They have taken it from a speculation to a sensation. As far as the future, we can only guess what surprises lie ahead.

Whatever will be, will be!

Holly Howell is a Certified Specialist of Wine (by the Society of Wine Educators) and a Certified Sommelier (by the Master Court of Sommeliers in England).

31

WELCOME TO

MOUNTAIN HOME

WEDDING “J

ohn and Alison had a beautiful garden wedding at The Woods Bed and Breakfast in Middlebury Center,” said Bridget Reed. “This photo was one the last photos I took of them. We went up the road to a nearby barn and field, and I loved how they looked walking away.

The thermos has its own story: John always has it with him, no matter where they are. So it was only fitting he had it during their wedding day, and perfect that it was in this parting shot. I love this fun, last minute photo— those always seem to be some of the most lasting images.”

And we love bringing them to you, as we welcome you to another season of Mountain Home Wedding.

32

© Bridget Reed Photography www.bridgetreed.com 33

Herman & Luther’s

From Barbecue to Bridal Gowns, a Venue Is Born

By Teresa Banik Capuzzo

W

hen Montoursville native George Logue finished four years of culinary school at Penn College a few years back, his plan was what most young, talented, ambitious professionals in his position would have: head for a city and start cooking. But his dad, Herman Logue, who worked in heavy highway construction by day and cooked barbecue by night,

had a different idea. “My dad and I had always done barbecue together,” says George, “and he said, ‘What if we open a barbecue together?’ So he convinced me to stick around.”

And so Acme Barbecue was born. Unwrapped in 2010 in downtown Williamsport, after a series of teasingly enigmatic billboards had whetted the public’s curiosity, Acme was busy See Herman and Luther’s on page 36

See Herman & Luthers on page 36

34

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With hundreds of dresses fromSouth a selection 819 Main St., Horseheads of wonderful designers, a variety (607) 739-5321 • www.bonjulies.com of price ranges, and a friendly and Hours: Tue & Bonjulie’s Fri 10-6; Wed-Th 10-8; Sat 10-4 knowledgeable sales staff, is here to help you find the gown of your dreams.

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© Barden Photography

36

Family affair: George (left) and father Herman Logue combine their love of barbecue with rustic charm to provide a one-of-a-kind venue.

Herman and Luther’s continued from page 34

from the get-go, and George continued honing his talents. Joining a Mississippi barbecue team that has competed annually in the World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest in Memphis for six years (part of the Memphis in May International Festival), he and his team won first place in the Whole Hog category in 2013 and took the World Grand Championship prize in 2015, competing against over 200 teams from a dozen-odd countries every year.

Back home, Acme’s catering arm took off, too, with a wedding on the schedule almost every weekend in the summer. Wedding venues had taken a turn for the rustic, and Acme was delivering a lot of their catering spreads to barns decked out in white. All the while, George and Herman would drive by an architectural Montoursville icon on PA Route 87—a massive stone barn. Built in the 1700s and last restored in the 1970s, it had fallen into disuse, as the house it accompanied it was rented out to a non-farmer.

“The barn would be a cool place, a great wedding venue,” George told his father. It was, however, not for sale. But George and Herman kept at the owner, and eventually ending up buying three buildings and seven acres of the farm. They started restoration on what was to become Herman & Luther’s (named after Dad and the barn’s most recent owner). And before the building was finished, Herman & Luther’s hosted its first wedding in May 2015.

“We were laying the last piece of flooring just before the wedding,” says George. And they never looked back. Acme catered the weddings in those early months, barbecuing outside, surrounded by fields of corn and hay, as the kitchen was built and restoration details were completed.

Since April of this year, they have hosted at least one wedding every week, along with all manner of small events like parties and company picnics. The Herman & Luther’s kitchen boasts two fulltime cooks George studied with at Penn College (and there’s another Penn College alum working as a fulltime cook in the Acme kitchen).

When the place isn’t booked for weddings, the kitchen, billed as Charlie and Frankie’s Supper Club (inspired by George’s daughters, Charlotte and Frances), hosts themed events at Herman & Luther’s, turning it into a sometimes-restaurant for dinners on Valentine’s Day and St. Patrick’s Day, oyster night, and brunch on Mother’s Day. It is still a family affair. Aunt Amy Carter manages Acme and does all the offsite catering. And George continues to oversee both places on the ground, with Herman still aboard as partner and Dad.

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Something old...that’s new: Segments of sentimental jewelry are married into a one-of-a-kind keepsake.

Strands of Memories

Sentiments Take Center Stage at Soulshine Studio

By Maggie Barnes

W

hen a woman marries, she wants to be near the people who have loved her all her life, to celebrate, not only the union she is entering, but also the family history that brought her to that moment.

Natalie Stalis of Elmira wanted that.

But, as she planned her special day in 2014, she knew there would be empty chairs. Her father was tragically murdered when Natalie

38

was only twelve years old. Her beloved grandmother, with whom she shared a special bond, had recently passed away.

How to keep their spirits close to her in the joyful setting of a wedding?

Enter Ann Recotta of Soulshine Studio Bead Shop. Ann is a renowned bead artist and teacher of bead crafts throughout the Eastern United States.

“Ann was very enthusiastic about the

piece I envisioned for my wedding day, and she brought my idea to life,” says Natalie.

Natalie gave Ann a collection of jewelry that holds special meaning for her, and Ann crafted them into a truly one-of-a-kind bridal bouquet.

“The most special piece became the center of the bouquet. It is an antique bracelet that my grandmother gave me as a young child. The bouquet also has other

sentimental pieces throughout it; a ring my godmother gave me for my confirmation with the church, a couple of pins that belonged to my father, some random pieces from friends that hold a special place in my heart even though I don’t see them often and a pair of earrings from my husband,” Natalie says.

The carrying stem of the bouquet is covered in rings and necklaces loop throughout the round arrangement.

“All of these pieces combined were very comforting to me and were important to me because many people have helped me grow into the person I am. I wanted to be close to them, as all of their support is so meaningful to me,” Natalie says.

The bouquet has a place of honor in Natalie and Tim’s home and brings loving memories every day of their wedding and the people who were there, both in person and in their hearts.

Ann smiles broadly at the thought of her creation being so important to someone. “It was one of the most unique things I’ve ever done,” she says.

“When I am working on something for a wedding, I often think about the couple getting married. I think about their future together. I like to think that I’m embedding my best wishes for them in what I’m making. I know it will always be a part of the memory of that day for them,” Ann says.

That philosophy is a standard part of the service Ann provides for her brides and all her customers. Whether she is adding some bling to the bride’s shoes with jeweled beads or creating personalized wine glass charms for the reception, Ann approaches her work with the full understanding that her creations will live on for generations in wedding albums and family heirloom boxes. She sometimes gets to see photos later of her jewelry being worn on the big day.

Sometimes, the fate of Ann’s jewelry is more of a mystery.

When she had a storefront, a gentleman walked in off Market Street one summer day and pointed to a large choker necklace Ann had displayed in the window. Bronze in color, the choker showcased a golden stone set in the center, with beaded draping ready to adorn a lovely neck. The man said he wanted it and he didn’t hesitate when Ann quoted him the $800 price tag.

“He paid me in cash, took the package, and winked at me as he left, saying ‘And I was never here.’ Then he got into a waiting limousine.”

Ann laughs at the memory, adding, “I loved that necklace, and I wasn’t fully prepared to part with it. My hands shook while I was wrapping it.”

Luckily for Ann, handing over her beaded pieces is usually less emotional.

More than a dozen years ago, she and her daughters went to a beading class and made bracelets. “There were some beads left over, but not enough to make anything else. So, I went to a shop and got more. That was it. I was hooked.”

Ann was working for a framing shop on Market Street at the time, so the basement of her home became her artist’s studio.

She sold jewelry out of her employer’s shop and online. She also, by her own admittance, “buried” her family and friends in gifts of beaded jewelry.

The bead shop where Ann had her first creative experience closed and, “I didn’t want to live in a town that didn’t have a bead shop.”

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Soulshine continued from page 39

She opened Soulshine Studio Bead Shop in 2011, taking the inspiration for the name from an Allman Brothers song.

“Anything a person creates is part of them, it reflects their soul. I always loved when someone came in and said, ‘I am not creative.

I don’t think I can make anything.’ Then to watch them light up when they made a beautiful piece, that was my favorite part of having the store.”

Ann began teaching, basic classes at first, then more elaborate techniques as she learned them from seminars. She is now in demand as an instructor by bead shops in the region and in other states like Virginia and Alabama. “Spreading the sickness,” she laughs, about getting others hooked on the craft.

Exclusively online now, her virtual studio can be found at www.soulshine-studio.com or via Facebook and Instagram at Soul Shine Studio Corning.

Because she understands that her pieces are worn on special occasions or given to mark a milestone event, Ann uses high quality components and assembles them with an emphasis on durability. “I want it to be passed on in a family and cherished.”

Her preferred beads come from Czechoslovakia, because of their organic imperfections. “The Japanese beads are perfect in their shape and color, but I prefer something less artificial looking, more authentic.”

She has shipped her artistry to several other states and routinely participates in international competitions.

“All the competitors are supposed to use the Japanese beads, but I bet the folks in Czechoslovakia use their own,” she said, with a good-natured laugh.

Ann works full time in administration for the 171 Cedar Arts Center in Corning and her free time is spent traveling, teaching and beading.

“I am very happy with where I am,” she smiles, in the words of someone with a bead on life.

40

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Momma’s boy: Neal O’Donnell with the books he and his mother cooked from when he was a young man.

Picking a Peck of Peter Paupers

Mom’s ’50s Go-To Cookbooks Are Still a Delight in the New Millennium

By Cornelius O’Donnell

W

ell, maybe “peck” isn’t the correct word to describe the little cookbook volumes from the Peter Pauper Press that I’ve collected over the years. You might even have one tucked into a bookcase somewhere. (Maybe at grannie’s?) The company, which began in 1928 in a family basement in Larchmont, New York, is still publishing, and they are still producing a few cookery books today.

Most of those 4 ½- by 5 ½-inch pocket/handbag-sized books I have were published in the mid to late ’50s and on into the ’60s.

The titles, cover art, graphics, and copy are just plain charming.

There are the ABC series of books: The ABC of Gourmet Cooking, The ABC of Cheese Cookery, The ABC of Herb and Spice Cookery, and the ABC of Salads and (ditto) Desserts. The Merrie Christmas Cook Book and its companion Drink Book. The decorations in these books are by Ruth McCrea, whose work can truly be called winsome. Or maybe whimsical. (They would be great, enlarged and framed, to decorate a kitchen’s walls.) And scattered through all of 42

these pages are corny poems about food. Here are a few examples: Drink down a toast / To the best of all cooks, / Who plays it by ear / And not by the books.”

That’s from Gourmet Cookery. However, in Cheese Cookery, there’s another, a caption for a drawing depicting a guy on his knees, proposing. I assume it’s she who says: It’s true that I love you, / But, Dear, I can’t cook; / I’ll marry you, Darling, / But buy me a book! Perhaps my favorite: ’Long with the drinks, / Bring on the cheese; / Jaded old gourmets / To tempt and to please!”

I originally started this little essay with ten books in hand and then a friend called. She’d found Herbs and Spice, and I added it. Published in 1957, this turns out to be a collaboration between the publisher and Spice Islands. (We’re told they supplied the recipes). We hear the words “retro” and “vintage” applied to fashion, but applying it to food? Between the Pauper Press’s cookbook covers are supremo examples of some of the food we ate back then.

The Whys of Collecting Yes, I plead guilty. I am a collector and about as far from being a neo-Luddite (look it up) as one can get. My particular passion: cookbooks! But there is a reason I’ve been drawn to the Pauper Press output. Let’s time travel back to the late ’50s, early ’60s. The scene is our beloved A&P on the main drag in Delmar, New York. The players in this little drama, probably staged twice a week, are yours truly and his mother, Genevieve. We meet about 5:30, as we are both working. Mom stands near the aromatic coffee-grinding machine. (We are a black-bagged A&P Bokar coffee family, never even considering Eight O’Clock in the red bag or that yellow-bagged Family Circle. Talk about brand loyalty.)

Anyway, during this encounter mama opens her purse and produces one of the Peter Pauper cookbooks. (I wish I could remember which one.) This is going to help solve the eternal question: “what’s for dinner.” Plus, we are having fun. Having decided, say, on chicken, we graze through the possibilities. We have to figure on that favorite word “fast.”

This little scheme produced a few real successes—and I’ve managed to forget the flops. I do remember that many of the chosen recipes went into rotation and some were tarted up with varied herbs (in those days all from a jar). I pushed the cart, always—and then we’d scoot home to share the peeling, slicing, and then the actual cooking.

I have a hunch that it was the Queen of Hearts Cook Book mom used. (I discovered there was a The King of Hearts Drinks Book too: men being the supposed handler of the spirits back then.) Queen is the earliest of the bunch (1955), and it has some things in it that trigger a vague taste memory. Do you recall making canapes from English Muffins topped with a shredded cheddar-onion based mix and then broiled? Or “homemade” pizzas using those same muffins? I do. Those ’50s hors d’oeuvres would have been perfect for martini hour for the Don Drapers of that Mad Men era and their, um, dining partners du jour: I should know, I worked in advertising in the late ’60s. Gulp!

Back to Mama: perhaps we sometimes used The Melting Pot, another Pauper presentation, showcased as “A Cookbook of All Nations” and crammed into the sixty-page format. It came with the following ditty on the back cover (the books even had dustjackets).

Within the pot-shaped drawing (emblazoned with flags flying and three lively-looking dancers below it) was this: From the East and from the West / Come the foods / We love the best! / Be they bland / Or be they hot. They’ll simmer in / Our Melting Pot! What I remember simmering in our frying pan—and for many years—was a variation of a dish that used to be on so many restaurant menus. Remember Hamburger Steak? Well here’s the Melting Pot version: Hamburger, Bourgogne 2 pounds ground chuck Salt and pepper to taste 2 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup blanched almonds, coarsely chopped 2 cloves, garlic, cut in half 1 cup Burgundy (use any good tasting Finger Lakes red) Combine meat and salt and pepper. Use a light touch and See Peter Pauper on page 44

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Peter Pauper continued from page 43

form into 6 patties. Fry slowly in melted butter. Remove to a platter and keep warm. In butter remaining in pan, brown almonds and garlic. When almonds are slightly browned and the garlic just colored, add Burgundy (or cabernet or merlot, etc.). Bring to a boil. Remove garlic and pour liquid over hamburgers. Serves 6.

Ingredients a Food Historian Would Love Which brings me to the subject of mushrooms. I’d sauté as few sliced mushrooms to enliven the sauce on that fancy burger.

Funny thing is, some of the recipes in these books call for fresh mushrooms, others call for canned, and still others for “mushroom powder.” We wince. The “spice biggies” such as McCormick and Spice Island do not list “mushroom powder” these days, but you can make your own by going online and entering “mushroom powder.” It gives a needed jolt of that elusive taste sensation called umami.

More wincing: the veal cutlet Parmigiano in “Melting Pot” lists mozzarella as an ingredient, not Parmesan. And in a few of the recipes there is the odd can of soup or soup base. And fancy dishes might have sherry. So tres chic.

Back then, if bell peppers were called for they’d usually be green (a taste I happen to like). And I recall grating onion when I was a kid to obtain onion juice, a favorite ingredient (you could add some to that burger.) It was available bottled back in the day.

It rarely happened, but sometimes mom was too pooped to pie-it, so we had fruit or, on a particularly tough day, applesauce for dessert with striations of cinnamon and whipped cream on the side. (Today I’d add Calvados, a French apple brandy, to the cream. Gourmet? Oui!). But here is a seasonal delight I found in Peter Pauper’s Simple French Cookery. It’s definitely for grownups, so have that jar of applesauce handy for the kiddies. And my mom would have loved it. (She’d probably have made small meringue disks to top with the berries.)

Strawberries a la Reine This is a dish for a mature audience, including a Queen, but it is so easy and delicious I was delighted to find it again. I made it with Grand Marnier, not having Curacao on hand. And I dished the fruit over some strawberry ice cream. Halve the berries if they are large; quarter them if they are super-large.

3 c. stemmed strawberries 3 Tbsp. powdered sugar 3 Tbsp. Port (Ruby would be my choice) 3 Tbsp. plus 1 teaspoon orange Curacao or Grand Marnier 3 Tbsp. Brandy 1 c. heavy cream (preferably not ultra-pasteurized), whipped

Toss the strawberries with the sugar and then chill (them, not you). Blend Port, 3 tablespoons orange Curacao, and Brandy, and pour over chilled berries. Add the teaspoon of Curacao to the whipped cream. Place berries and ¼ of the liquid in 4 individual dishes; cover with whipped cream and serve. Maybe save out 4 nice berries to top your creation. Serves 4.

See Peter Pauper on page 46 44

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Peter Pauper continued from page 44

More Books

The Press’s founders back in 1928 were Peter Beilenson and his wife Edna. It was Edna who started the cookery series that, she boasted, covered everything “from abalone to zabaglione.” (And that was the title of a ’57 effort.) It was she who insisted on the decorative bindings and artwork that make these gift books such small treasures. In an interview, Nick, the son of the founders of the press, claimed that the books were sold “at prices even a pauper could afford.” Indeed. These little cookery books, typically about sixty pages, cost a dollar. As I recall, they were displayed in stores on a little stand near the cash register for impulse buys. They made a dandy little gift for the relatives, friends and neighbors who were into cooking, and an inexpensive indulgence for cookbook collectors like moi. (By the way, I just recently snagged another copy of the The Merrie Christmas Cook Book, only this is the 1984 edition.

There is a very attractive new dust jacket but with contents identical to the ’55 version. That one cost a buck, the “newer” one is $6.95.)

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I happened to mention my fascination with the Press to two friends and they introduced me to their friends, a couple living in the Ithaca area, who have a collection of ephemera. You know, booklets, ads, all manner of paper devoted to kitchen

and other things. So we arranged a visit. I was, as the British say, gob-smacked. Their holdings are vast, and wonderfully indexed.

I discovered my eleven little volumes are a very small part of the fifty-odd cookery and drinks books published in the small format to date. As I implied, many of them had a holiday cooking or drinks theme.

And what good stocking stuffers they must have made.

Moreover, you can almost trace the evolution of cooking styles over the years by reading the titles and the year they were published. My new friends have a list that I eagerly perused. As the ’60s morphed into the ’70s, All you Need to Know About Wine and Fabulous Fondues appeared; and in ’72 along came Simple Organic Cooking and 1974’s Making Wine at Home. Then followed The Microwave Party Cook Book (1976), The Geisha Cook Book (1976), Festive Cookies (1985) and Early American Cooking from that same year. I gotta get me that there Geisha book!

A Final Ditty I found this in Herbs and Spices: So sprinkle herbs, and sprinkle spices, / And have a real good day. / But, remember please, / A little bit, will go a long, long way!

Chef, teacher, author, and award-winning columnist Cornelius O’Donnell lives in Elmira, New York.

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