EAT

REVIEW: RSVP

Old-world French eatery in a fresh setting

Sitting within Dubai’s copy-paste Shoreditch recreation that is Boxpark lies a new restaurant totally at odds with its location, and all the better for it. RSVP eschews the cafés and restaurant chains we know so well, in favour of an upscale DIFC feel. You could be inside a classy bistro in Paris, with the marble table tops, customised napkins, and elegant artwork displayed on its walls.

The mood is a nice surprise alone. The unlicensed restaurant is full on a Tuesday night, though we probably shouldn’t be so surprised. RSVP is fully curated and managed by Atelier House Hospitality, the firm behind Michelin-starred 11 Woodfire, award-winning DIFC restaurant Marea, and the popular homegrown concept Mohalla.

At RSVP, Atelier’s fifth restaurant opening, the food combines the elegance of an old-world French eatery – hence the ‘repondez, s’il vous plait’ name – with subtle influences of Asian flavours. Spearheaded by Aadel Ouaoua, a chef de cuisine with a considerable Michelin-starred background, offers a menu of regional French delicacies interspersed with unusual oriental dishes. A portion of escargot, for example, bookends the hot starters with chicken spring rolls. “My inspiration comes from my extensive travels across the globe and my love for French-Mediterranean cuisine combined with a deep affection for Japanese culinary techniques. Marrying these three elements results in RSVP’s unique offering,” explains chef Aadel.

The creamy cheese stracciatelle dip (Dhs40) topped with a tomato compote and basil oil is a lovely starter, great for mopping up with the homemade VP bread (Dhs18) served as a crunchy French stick. The tuna and avocado tartare (Dhs95) is a perfect mix of blue fin tuna chunks, sesame, and well-seasoned guacamole topped with shredded nori. The charcoal smoked lamb chops (Dhs230), served to the table in a delightful oval pan, rivalled LPM’s famous dish. The meat was thick and tender while the sticky jus with teriyaki sauce packed umami flavour. Dipping RSVP’s superb homemade French fries (Dhs35) into the lamb chops’ jus counts as one of our favourite dining moments in Dubai this year.

Ending with the fondant au chocolat (Dhs60) and its chocolate crumble base may be a little too fluffy for pedants, but by this point you’ve been wellfed and generally swept up in the joie de vivre of it all. RSVP, Boxpark, Al Wasl Road, Tue to Sun 7pm to 11.30pm (closed Mon). Tel: (0)4 265 5007. @rsvprestaurant WHAT’S ON VERDICT Upscale, unlicensed restaurants can be surprisingly fun and delicious, and RSVP is proof.

BEACH, PLEASE!

The city’s sandy shores make for a scenic backdrop at these new beachfront restaurants

Tamoka

Inspired by the Antilles, Latin America and the Caribbean, this tropical restaurant offers an instant on-holiday feel. Not only does Tamoka offer a gorgeous restaurant space with indoor and outdoor seating, there are also seats on the beach and a separate beach bar, called Caña by Tamoka. The interiors are striking, with a boho-chic island vibe throughout. The menu features an array of ceviches made-to-order from the dedicated counter, plus beef short ribs and a steaming zapallo, an indulgent whole baked cheesy pumkin fondue. The Ritz-Carlton, Dubai, JBR, daily noon to 1am. Tel: (0)4 318 6099. @tamokadubai

Kyma Beach

Part-beach club, part-alfresco restaurant, Kyma is a new addition to the Palm West Beach scene, bringing breezy Grecian vibes to its beachfront plot. Under the shade of a macrame parasol, work on your tan while reclining on a plush lounger, indulge in a long, lazy lunch of beach eats, or dip your toes into the temperature-controlled pool while sipping crisp glasses of rosé. On the menu, you’ll find Greek dishes with a wider Mediterranean influence, such as fresh salads, cooked-to-order fish and crunchy calamari. Kyma Beach, Palm West Beach, Palm Jumeirah, 10am to 8pm pool, noon to 2am restaurant. Tel: (0)4 666 5999. @kymabeachdubai

The Byron Bathers Club

Taking inspiration from Australia’s celebrity hotspot, Byron Bay, this new concept is actually a three-in-one, all-occasions spot. There’s the main restaurant and terrace, Byron’s Bar & Bistro; the all-alfresco Ulu’s Oyster bar; and Tigerlily’s Beach, where you’ll find loungers, deck chairs and even a play area for the little ones. Inside, decor is light and airy, with an easy going, surf-style aesthetic. Outdoors there’s a tropical garden feel, with a whitewashed beer garden-style set-up, as well as terrace tables. Shoreline, Palm Jumeirah noon to midnight Mon to Fri, 8am to midnight Sat and Sun. Tel: (0)4 323 7378. @byronbathersclub

Ula

With its boho, earthy décor, rattan pergola and sprawling terrace that extends down to the shallows of the Arabian Gulf, this beachside restaurant was made for long, lazy days. Whether it’s a breakfast with free-flowing Prosecco, a pool day, or an evening of sundowners and freshly baked woodfired pizza. Ula, Dukes The Palm, Palm Jumeirah 10am to 1am Mon to Weds, 9am to 1am Thurs to Sun. Tel: (0)4 565 2231. @uladxb

Peaches & Cream

A retro, Miami-inspired restaurant perched on The Palm’s shoreline, Peaches & Cream is all about taking you back to the 1980s. This familyfriendly restaurant is the perfect spot for little ones to soak up the sea air while adults tuck into tasty Mediterranean dishes. Sit under one of the pink striped parasols and dine on a menu of pizza, paella, and fresh seafood in the sunshine. Shoreline 1, Palm Jumeirah, 8am to midnight daily. Tel: (052) 947 4552. @peachesandcreamdxb

3 BEACH BRUNCHES TO TRY

Eva Beach House Every Friday afternoon, guests of Eva Beach House can enjoy Brunch of Tulum, along with a gourmet selection of international cuisine, refreshing beverages, and upbeat entertainment. Eva Beach House, The Club, West Beach, Palm Jumeirah, Fri 2pm to 5pm, Dhs450 soft drinks; Dhs595 with spirits, beer, and wine; and Dhs790 with Prosecco and Champagne. Tel: (0)50 978 8703. @evabeachhousedxb

Surf Club Surf Club invites guests to its beach brunch every Sunday, with the ‘toes in the sand’ experience running from 1pm to 5pm offering guests breathtaking views and atmospheric vibes, thanks to a roster of international DJs. Guests can enjoy dishes such as creamy burrata, edamame followed by black Angus ribeye, miso salmon and more. Surf Club, West Beach, Palm Jumeirah, Sundays, 1pm to 5pm, Dhs395 soft, Dhs495 house. Tel: (0)4 589 5444. @surfclubdubai

Torno Subito This recently awarded One Michelin Star restaurant, led by Massimo Bottura and his team, extends its playful dining to the weekend, with dishes such as oyster dill gazpacho, pizza with porcini mushrooms and black truffle, and ‘Tiramisubito.’ Torno Subito, W Dubai – The Palm, Sat 1pm to 4pm, Dhs325 with soft drinks, Dhs425 with house drinks and bubbly, Dhs525 with premium drinks. Tel: (0)4 245 5555. tornosubitodubai.com