EAT

REVIEW: ALAYA

A Chef Izu-backed restaurant in DIFC – is Alaya a guaranteed recipe for success?

Simply by opening in DIFC, restaurants carry a certain level of expectation with them. These include great ambience, quality food and faultless service. Such expectations are increased further when acclaimed chef, Izu Ani, is at the helm. With the likes of Greek hotspot Gaia, French brasserie Carine, and most-recently FrenchMediterranean spot La Maison Ani under his belt, there’s no denying Chef Izu can deliver a great restaurant. But Alaya moves into a slightly different realm, this time offering East Mediterranean cuisine, otherwise known as Levantine.

Alaya is a little smaller than we expected, having been a gallery in its former life. Much attention has been paid to the fit-out though, with a lovely dark marble floor, chic cocktail bar and open kitchen. Tables are packed close together with intimate table lamps, although the glow from the gallery opposite floods the space with an unfortunately bright artificial light. Props must be paid, however, to the glassware and plates, each of which could be considered a work of art. The menu is easy to get excited about, especially when you love cheese as much as I do. Our first dish, mangal salad (Dhs45), is served with oven-fresh Arabic bread; allowing guests to scoop on piles of finely chopped aubergine, courgette, bell peppers and a creamy melted cheese. Despite the combination of ingredients, the flavour blends seamlessly to create a truly balanced dish.

Additional starters are split between cold and hot mezze, and from the cold section we opt for yellowtail Lakedra (Dhs160). It’s a simple dish, devised of four thickly sliced raw yellowtail pieces, served with an olive oil and lemon dressing. It’s not complex but it is delicious. We also couldn’t resist trying the raw kibbeh (Dhs170) to see how it compares to what we’ve tasted in Lebanon. Using Angus tenderloin, the kitchen serves the meat raw in a thick stone bowl, alongside a serving of crisp, crunchy lettuce. “You must eat the two together,” our server tells us, and we happily oblige, squeezing fresh lemon on top. The meat could have done with a little more seasoning, but the lettuce pairing was indeed an excellent choice.

From the hot mezze, we choose the cheese borek (Dhs125), which has been given a Dubai twist thanks to the sprinklings of fresh truffle. Warm crispy filo pastry is stuffed with creamy truffle and cheese sauce; it’s super tasty and a generous size, ideally to be shared amongst at least four people.

Returning to the menu, we forgo the main courses in favour of the ‘bazaar’ section, choosing a wagyu picaña from the rotisserie (sold on grammage, Dhs650 per kg). The meat was beautifully tender, coated in a spiced rub for extra flavour. The only let down was a minimum cooking temperature of medium, as we felt that the dish would have been even better served medium rare.

Desserts include Middle Eastern favourites date cake and kunafa as well as more European treats including apricot tart and pistachio ice cream. Alaya, Gate Village 4, DIFC, daily 12pm to 2am. Tel: (0)4 570 6289. alaya-dubai.com WHAT’S ON VERDICT Alaya has all the potential to stand out in DIFC, elevating Levantine cuisine in a classy, premium way.

REVIEW: TAIKUN

How does this sultry show fare a second time around?

The concept of dinner and a show divides the What’s On office. While some applaud the addition of entertainment, others feel it’s an excuse to underdeliver on the food. But new entries into this genre keep coming, and the latest to join the ranks is Taikun. If the name sounds familiar, it’s because Taikun previously existed in Vida Downtown. But after a short hiatus, the brand is back at a sparkly new spot in Habtoor City.

The new venue has the feel of a sultry supper club, with interiors that give it a burlesque-inspired design. Crimson velvet walls encase the white clothed tables, set with ruby red velvet chairs and each illuminated by flickering candlelight. Accents of gold across the bar only add to the grandeur. The stage is smaller than we expect for a venue of this style, but the restaurant’s intimate size means that every table has a decent view of the action.

A word of warning for the early diner: guests only start arriving from 9pm onwards. So, when we naively arrive at 8pm, we’re sat alone save for the friendly wait staff for almost an hour. But, by the time the entertainment begins, most tables are occupied. Taikun’s all-singing, alldancing medley of performances tackle some of the biggest songs in show business, ranging from Tina Turner’s The Best to Shirley Bassey’s Big Spender. The choreography might not be as slick as some of its competitors, but that doesn’t seem to bother diners. Each set builds into the next, and by the early hours, guests are happily joining in, waving napkins and sparklers with gusto.

It’s hard to define the cuisine as anything other than a menu of Dubai crowd-pleasers. Starters like a creamy burrata (Dhs115), a prettily plated beef tartare (Dhs165), and a crunchy flatbread topped with rocket, truffle and aged balsamic (Dhs145) can all be upgraded with one gram of black truffle for Dhs65. Not that they need it. All the dishes are well-balanced and flavourful. A decadent 30-piece display of maki rolls, sashimi and nigiri (Dhs650) arrives theatrically on dry ice, a welcome interlude before mains of wagyu beef tenderloin (Dhs380) and poached sea bass (Dhs210), both of which are enjoyable, but feel a little heavy for the lively setting, while the white wine sauce that coats the sea bass fillet is a touch overpowering. If you order one dessert, let it be the baked Alaska (Dhs160), with a soft pistachio sponge topped with peaks of meringue, it’s presented with a pouring of flaming Cointreau. Taikun, Hilton Dubai Al Habtoor City, 8pm to 3am, Tues to Sat. Tel: (0)50 307 0941. taikundubai.com WHAT’S ON VERDICT Taikun is a great setting for a fun-filled night out with friends. Arrive late, enjoy the entertainment and stay until the early hours.