REVIEW: SUMOSAN

A global icon joins the Dubai scene

The Dubai Edition already had some impressive names on its food and beverage roster – namely Inti and Ergo – but recently, globally acclaimed restaurant Sumosan, with restaurants in London, Riyadh and Berlin, also joined its ranks. For this reason, and the fact that we adore Japanese cuisine, we had to check it out.

Upon entering the hotel our eyes are immediately drawn to the grand fusilli shaped staircase that acts as centrepiece to the lobby. Onwards, we stroll into the restaurant’s dark and moody interiors that make for a deliciously intimate setting.

Seated at our table, Dimitri, our server for the evening, introduces himself and explains that Sumosan is a strictly sharing-style restaurant, so dishes will be served to the middle of the table for everybody’s enjoyment. A tour through the menu’s signature dishes includes the classic Sumosan lobster surprise salad (Dhs190) and the famous crispy sushi rice pizza with salmon furikake (Dhs75).

In the salad, bite-sized lobster portions are accompanied by a delightful zesty and fragrant salad dressing.

The crispy rice pizza comes with a heavy dusting of spices atop freshly cut salmon and makes for a perfectly amalgamated bite. Beneath the salmon we’re greeted by thinly sliced cucumber, which elevates the intricate flavours of the plate. Our only note, we would have preferred the crispy rice to have been crisper.

Onto the sushi course and we’re jovially warned that if we dip the T&T (tuna and truffle) maki rolls (Dhs100) in soy, we should leave. Because all jokes come with at least a kernel of truth, we decide not to test the staff of Sumosan and follow their advice. The combination of truffle mayo and fattiness of the tuna, carefully rolled in sushi rice and then incrusted with aromatic roe provides all the flavour you’d ever want in such a bite.

WHAT’S ON VERDICT

Sumosan is a love letter to Japanese dishes that keeps the culture, taste and traditions alive with immaculate flair.

Lastly, we delight in chu toro nigiri (Dhs80), a cut prepared from the fatty belly of tuna. We dip the nigiri, fish side down into the soy, let it sit for a short time, remerging for a melt-in-the-mouth experience.

So focused on the refined fare in front of us, we barely notice the restaurant filling up. But as our eyes greet the inbound dessert, the buzz is palpable. Our sweets are refreshing and light – an uncommon combination of melted white chocolate, mint leaves and pineapple (Dhs70), served on shaved ice. Every last drop of mouthful is scooped before we retire.

Sumosan, The Dubai Edition, Downtown Dubai, Sun to Thu 6pm to 2am, Fri and Sat 6pm to 3am. Tel: (0)56 169 6901.

sumosan.com